BMW R90/6 (75/6, 75/7) idle and synchro.
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- Anyone can afford a differential vacuüm indicator.
The full range (about 2½ft difference in fluid level) corresponds with a differential pressure of 0,1 Bar.
This is a precise or better than any rotating meter- or multichannel mercury equipment.
WARNING:
If your pressure difference is high, it may suck the ATF fluid into your inlet. It doesn't happen in a second, but can happen in 10 seconds. Switch of your engine and use cheap manometer tools for rough adjustment. Or just make some blind adjustments and try again.
TIP:
I've used this also on a 3-cylinder, and could use it for a 4 cylinder as well. Choose one cylinder as your baseline and compare each one in turn to your baseline. Once you're satisfied, compare in other pairs, they shall be OK, but some finetuning may be found. If that's the case, tune BOTH towards eachother, so the total doesn't veer away from your baseline!
This is by far the best method to synchronize, great video Thanks!
Exceelent vacuum gauge, and very helpful video. Thanks.
Perfect, thats exactly how I balance my R75/6, cost a few dollars for the tubing, had ATF at home, takes 5 minutes to check a warm motor.. easy.
To get the best pull away power (setting off from a stand) my R100/7 liked the air mix to be lean.
After setting the balance I would go for a ride around the houses with a screw driver and lean off the air screws a tiny bit after each set off. The torque (pull away) was always better set lean but the leaner the air screw, the more it popped in the exhaust on slowing down, it was a compromise between best pull away power (torque) and least popping lol (Bing CV Carbs)
nice. what was used as a fluid? how is this done on 4 cylinder bikes (honda cb's etc)?
Should have both petcocks on and preferably an electric fan blowing on the engine when idling that long . But helpful video .