Love the way you are working together and the job you’re doing keep going your making a lot of memories one day when you have your 31 foot Bertram you guys could look back and say remember when we did that 😅
Thank you so much! We make a really good time I must admit. And these are definitely memories we’re gonna have forever! Hmmm a Bertram! Now that’s a dream! Maybe one day Larry! Thanks again for the positivity! 🍻
Thanks so much papo Im doing my Audio next im moving to the center console, panel electrical doing it all myself, this video was very and informative useful 🙏🏼☺️
The 6ga wire that grounds the bus bar for the switches should be run back to the battery instead of to the other fuse block. This will prevent noise from ground loop currents. ✌🏼
Great video! I’m also in middle of fixing up a older Grady White myself at the moment and this gave me great advice . Totally had my mind blown when I saw you walking in to River Marine .. I live down the street!
Thanks for the comment marco! I’m glad my video helped. I actually think I know who you are lol. You went to Palmetto right? You’re friends with Ashley Dis!
Good stuff guys. I usually jump my output to the illumination + so I know when the device is being powered. Also I use circuit breakers so I don't have to worry about fuses. But looks nice guys. Looking forward to seeing it float.
Nicely done! Your attention to detail is appreciated! Minor point of contradiction: Label #'s 8 & 6 must be swapped on the Diagram. The Diagram that you are showing at 5:38 (the Terminals on the back of the Switch) doesn't seem to match the actual Switches being used (at 2:10). The Switch Terminal #'s and their uses are: #2 is the Line side of the Switch (from Fuse Block). OK.✅ #3 is the Load side of the Switch (to a Load or "Appliance" Pos+). OK.✅ #8 is normally the Input for the Indicator Light (from your Fuse Block, since you are powering them all the time). OK.✅ #7 is the Negative for the Light (to the Neg. bus on Fuse Block). Jump all the #7's together, then to the Neg. bus on the Fuse Block. OK.✅ When you show the actual Switches (2:10) the Black wire is landed on *two* Terminals on each Switch... Weird. (And, they were factory wired that way). But, on the Diagram, (5:38), #7 & #8 are shown side by side (which is normal, but would never be jumped together - the Lights wouldn't work, and it would short the Battery, if they were jumped together, since #8 is Fused Pos. and #7 is Neg.) You put Red on #8, & Blk on #7, (which is correct), not Blk on both... (Your actual Switches have Blk on two Terminals)... Why? The diagram also shows #3 & #6 side-by-side, (as they normally would be). #3 is the Load side of the Switch. #6 does nothing in your configuration, but, again, the actual Switches have the Black wire landed on two Terminals on each Switch. It appears that the Diagram has the Tags for #8 & #6 swapped, which would put #8 next to #3 (which is how your actual Switches seem to be connected), and the factory apparently jumped #6 & #7 together with #6 not actually connected to anything inside the Switch. (#6 would normally be the Load side of a Double Pole Switch, where a Terminal #5 would be the Line Side of the second Pole.) Again, there is only one Negative Terminal on each Switch, (a 5- or 6-Terminal Switch, anyway), but the Switches actually have Black landed on two Terminals. Basically, I am saying that whomever tagged the Diagram numbers 6 & 8 got them backwards. Maybe a translation error on the Diagram for these Amazon Switch blocks. Your actual wiring is great! This is nearly identical to my 19' boat's setup. I have an additional Negative bus at the helm, as there is more room at the stern for my fuse block. Thank you for the effort and time this took to document and explain!
Hey brother thank you so much for the comment. And thank you so much for taking the time to go in such detail. Those Amazon switches aren’t the best and I tried to find a matching picture online to try and explain what I was doing. At the time I was trying to be redundant for anyone trying to do it themselves. But I can see how it can be confusing. I’m going to require our smaller skiff and try to be a little more precises and concise in the explanation. Thank you so much for the kind words and it shows you have some experience doing this! Shoot us an email if you have the time I’d love to run some ideas by you for our skiff rewire! 🤙
Good video. How did you determine the gauge of wire? Is there a standardized chart for boating? I build experimental airplanes and we have a guide for the amps & length of run and the fuse is there to protect the wire. We are just waiting a sea trial on a 38’ boat and I’m going to need to do some electrical work on it so was curious.
Hey Brett! Thank you for the comment! Yes, there is a standardized chart to follow. Look up ABYC wire chart and there’s graphs to help you determine the wire size depending on the run of the wire. In my case, I went overkill with the size of the wires because I got such a good deal on the bigger gauge wires. The rule of thumb in boating is you can go a little bigger than needed just never smaller! Hope that helps! Good luck with your wiring! 🤙
Just found the channel, great videos! Question about your NAV / ANCHOR light setup - does your ANCHOR light illuminate when your NAV lights are illuminated? It is supposed to. You need a RED light, GREEN light and a WHITE light illuminated at night when you operate your boat. The ANCHOR light is illuminated by itself when you are at anchor at night. 👍
Thanks Mikey! We appreciate that! And that’s a great tip! Our lights are on different switches so anchor light has its own switch and so do the nav lights! That way we have the ability to turn them off and on in case we’re just anchored or underway! 🤙🍻
Something that i have gotten into the habit of, offset the + and - joints. They will pull through and tuck away better. Not even a shade tree here, cars, trailers, and boats on a farm for like 30 years
Good job except just for me no one else you didn’t say what gauge of wires you were using for each. One question if you have a fuse block with negative at the top of it what is the purpose of the positive and negative bus bar? I’m trying to understand that in general
Thank you! I actually did mention the gauge wires I used in the video. The lights got 16g because they’re led and the pumps got 14g. 9:44 & 13:18 As far as the purpose of the busbar, there aren’t any rules that say you can’t run the wires straight to the fuse block. In my case, to keep things clean I opted to add the busbar then run wires to the fuse block. That allows me to run wires elsewhere in case I want to add another fuse block in the future, I’d have a place to connect power from. Thanks for the comment! 🤙
Cheap switches cost $60 bucks for both sets. A decent 8 switch system from blue sea costs $250-300. I’d need two of those in my case. The switches will be out in the elements with sun rain etc. No switch is going to last more than a few years being exposed anyway so I figured if they go bad, I can change it out by just buying a new one off Amazon and swap it out quick. I can buy 6 cheap switch sets and swap them out before reaching the cost of 2 newer blue seas switches. 👍
Good job, wanna come finish mine now? 😂 Real question though: I have a deep cycle battery, and a cranking battery that will only be used for the outboard motor of my sailboat. They are independently charged by a sport HD charging bank. We aren't going on huge trips, just a few hours at a time. Do you think there is a good reason for us to use the 1/2/both switch? We had been planning on not ever using the deep cycle to start the engine, or the cranking to run anything but the engine. We were thinking the only thing that would physically cost the two would be the deep cycle negative connecting to the cranking negative, so the deep cycle battery gets grounded to the engine.
Thanks for the comment Beth! If you are in south Florida I’d be happy to come help! 😂 as far as the 1/2/both switch, I’ll give you a quick story. We installed these brand new batteries and everything worked great. One day we were trying to start the motor and it wouldn’t turn. We tried and tried and it turned out to be the kill switch. The problem was that we didn’t realize how many times we were actually trying to turn the motor over and the battery got low enough were it didn’t have enough cranking power to create spark. We turned the switch to both and voila she turned over. Point of the whole thing is you might want to have it and not need it than to not have and need it. These switches aren’t too expensive and Imo they’re worth it! Hope that helps! 🤙
@@perfectfitboating OK, so that's not really compelling enough to anger my husband over changing this switch choice for the fourth time...our outboard can be pull started, so he intends that to be the back up.
Hey Andrew! I would use a busbar. It allows you to have other negatives to ground to something instead of the battery. You shouldn’t have more than 4 items on a battery post. Do you HAVE to? No. But it makes sense to use one. Hope that helps!
Hey Daniel thanks for the comment! Yes you can run power straight to the fuse panel from the switch. It’s actually already wired where the switch sends power directly to the fuse panel. The acr works while the switch is turned on and is on its own circuit doing its thing which is allowing current to flow to battery 1 and 2 as needed. Hope that helped! 🤙
@@perfectfitboating thank you for the quick response. Very helpful and your video is awesome! Thanks again. Just ordered my parts. Getting ready to re-wire all my electronics and pumps.
My only question is I thought the Anchor light is installed at the stern. It makes more sense visibly where you put it but don't you have to have a white running light at the stern?
That’s a good question because it’s also called a “stern light”. I went on the uscg rules and there isn’t any writing on the actual location of the light. But I found this “For power-driven vessels less than 39 .4 feet (12 meters) in length, the masthead or all-round white light must be at least 3 .3 feet (1 meter) above the sidelights”. I think I’m ok but now you got me thinking’ thanks for the question! 👍
@@perfectfitboating OK, I see now. You do need to have a light that lights in front of you, at least 39 inches higher than your sidelights. And if that light is not a 360 degree light, you need to add a stern light that lights behind you (but this doesn't have to be as high). In other words, if you aren't a sailboat, you can get away with putting an all-around light raised on a pole at your stern. Sailboats don't do this because we have that whole "sails are in the way of the light" issue, so we rig a light into our mast.
I am in desperate need of some guidance for my pontoon. I have 5 batteries total. I want to make sure they are all hooked up correctly. I have 4 things but possible 5th that’ll require power. I have one Pecko 2 way switch already installed - 1, 2, All and OFF. I also have 2 onboard battery chargers. 1 is 2 bank and 1 is a 3 Bank. I can send pics or specs if needed. 1. Motor/ignition 2. Trolling motor 80lb thrust 3. Garmin Depth Finder 4. 8 speaker w 2 12” subs stereo 5. Possible re-hook up bilge pump Main ? Is how to hook up all of these appropriately if you can give any advice I would be forever grateful!
Hey brad thanks for the comment. I’m not expert by any means but I might be able to help. 1. Your motor should have a battery cable coming off the starter which will hook up to your switch (+) and to your starting battery (-) your motor harness has a wire that is power for ignition. 2. From what I’ve seen, your trolling motor should have its own dedicated battery. The way I would wire this up would be with a separate on/off switch and a proper fuse. 3. Your depth finder can be powered from your main fuse block. The fuse block is getting power from your main switch. There should be a fuse after and closest to the switch for this long run to the fuse block. 4. I’ve never wired speakers but I would think it’s the same as any appliance. From the fuse block to amplifier or receiver or whatever. 5. Bilge pump would be the same. Check out our other video where we hook up the bilge pump! I hope this helps. If not shoot me an email and I’ll be happy to go back and for with you with ideas. Thanks brad! 🤙 I was also thinking, depending on what trolling motor you have, you might need more than one battery. So, another question I had was which batteries are you using for what? 1 starter battery 1 house battery and 3 trolling motor batteries? I’m not sure if those trolling motors run off 12, 24 or 36 volt.
I am planning to rewire my skiff this winter. I think from your videos I should be able to do it. I’m tired of all of my wiring looking like a birds nest.
Good wiring job, bilge pump should not be wired to the switch panel like that. The switch is fine but it should be wired to be always on regardless of the battery switch position. Has to bypass the battery switch. The reason is the bilge pump is a safety item and it like VHF should be wireddirectly to the battery so that they still work in the event of an emergency and someone accidentally turns off the battery switch.
Thanks for the comment. I also have the bilge wired directly to the house battery via the float switch. I’m thinking of adding a dedicated and separate bilge pump switch as well. Thanks! 👍
These 2 wiring videos were very helpful.
Thank you! We appreciate that! We try our best! 🍻
Love the way you are working together and the job you’re doing keep going your making a lot of memories one day when you have your 31 foot Bertram you guys could look back and say remember when we did that 😅
Thank you so much! We make a really good time I must admit. And these are definitely memories we’re gonna have forever! Hmmm a Bertram! Now that’s a dream! Maybe one day Larry! Thanks again for the positivity! 🍻
Sweet little ride! Post pics on your page so we can see it! We love watching restorations!🤙
Great and neat job of wiring guys! Can’t wait to see her in the water.
Thank you brother! We’re so close! How about you guys? Splashed her yet?
Great video again well done!
Thank you brother! 🤙🙌
Thanks so much papo Im doing my Audio next im moving to the center console, panel electrical doing it all myself, this video was very and informative useful 🙏🏼☺️
Youre very welcome my friend! Thanks for the comment! 🤙
The 6ga wire that grounds the bus bar for the switches should be run back to the battery instead of to the other fuse block. This will prevent noise from ground loop currents. ✌🏼
Awesome tip! Thanks so much! 🍻
Thinking about it now your right imagine you lose all ground because the main ground at the battery corroded
GOOD JOB, MAN THANKS
You’re welcome brother! Thank you for the positive comment! 🤙
Great video! I’m also in middle of fixing up a older Grady White myself at the moment and this gave me great advice . Totally had my mind blown when I saw you walking in to River Marine .. I live down the street!
Thanks for the comment marco! I’m glad my video helped. I actually think I know who you are lol. You went to Palmetto right? You’re friends with Ashley Dis!
@@perfectfitboating No way man, yeah that’s me. Any chance you’re up for local consultation? Boat is parked by Country Walk.
Yeah bud write me on Instagram. @perfectfitboating 🤙
Awesome video
Thanks Jason! We appreciate that! 🙌
Good stuff guys. I usually jump my output to the illumination + so I know when the device is being powered. Also I use circuit breakers so I don't have to worry about fuses. But looks nice guys. Looking forward to seeing it float.
Great tip! That’s another way to do it. And we might even change it to that. We’re thinking of splashing her this Friday so 🤞!!! Thank you brother! 🍻
Nicely done! Your attention to detail is appreciated! Minor point of contradiction: Label #'s 8 & 6 must be swapped on the Diagram.
The Diagram that you are showing at 5:38 (the Terminals on the back of the Switch) doesn't seem to match the actual Switches being used (at 2:10). The Switch Terminal #'s and their uses are:
#2 is the Line side of the Switch (from Fuse Block). OK.✅
#3 is the Load side of the Switch (to a Load or "Appliance" Pos+). OK.✅
#8 is normally the Input for the Indicator Light (from your Fuse Block, since you are powering them all the time). OK.✅
#7 is the Negative for the Light (to the Neg. bus on Fuse Block). Jump all the #7's together, then to the Neg. bus on the Fuse Block. OK.✅
When you show the actual Switches (2:10) the Black wire is landed on *two* Terminals on each Switch... Weird. (And, they were factory wired that way).
But, on the Diagram, (5:38), #7 & #8 are shown side by side (which is normal, but would never be jumped together - the Lights wouldn't work, and it would short the Battery, if they were jumped together, since #8 is Fused Pos. and #7 is Neg.)
You put Red on #8, & Blk on #7, (which is correct), not Blk on both... (Your actual Switches have Blk on two Terminals)... Why?
The diagram also shows #3 & #6 side-by-side, (as they normally would be).
#3 is the Load side of the Switch. #6 does nothing in your configuration, but, again, the actual Switches have the Black wire landed on two Terminals on each Switch.
It appears that the Diagram has the Tags for #8 & #6 swapped, which would put #8 next to #3 (which is how your actual Switches seem to be connected), and the factory apparently jumped #6 & #7 together with #6 not actually connected to anything inside the Switch. (#6 would normally be the Load side of a Double Pole Switch, where a Terminal #5 would be the Line Side of the second Pole.)
Again, there is only one Negative Terminal on each Switch, (a 5- or 6-Terminal Switch, anyway), but the Switches actually have Black landed on two Terminals.
Basically, I am saying that whomever tagged the Diagram numbers 6 & 8 got them backwards. Maybe a translation error on the Diagram for these Amazon Switch blocks.
Your actual wiring is great! This is nearly identical to my 19' boat's setup. I have an additional Negative bus at the helm, as there is more room at the stern for my fuse block.
Thank you for the effort and time this took to document and explain!
Hey brother thank you so much for the comment. And thank you so much for taking the time to go in such detail. Those Amazon switches aren’t the best and I tried to find a matching picture online to try and explain what I was doing. At the time I was trying to be redundant for anyone trying to do it themselves. But I can see how it can be confusing. I’m going to require our smaller skiff and try to be a little more precises and concise in the explanation. Thank you so much for the kind words and it shows you have some experience doing this! Shoot us an email if you have the time I’d love to run some ideas by you for our skiff rewire! 🤙
Good video. How did you determine the gauge of wire? Is there a standardized chart for boating? I build experimental airplanes and we have a guide for the amps & length of run and the fuse is there to protect the wire. We are just waiting a sea trial on a 38’ boat and I’m going to need to do some electrical work on it so was curious.
Hey Brett! Thank you for the comment! Yes, there is a standardized chart to follow. Look up ABYC wire chart and there’s graphs to help you determine the wire size depending on the run of the wire. In my case, I went overkill with the size of the wires because I got such a good deal on the bigger gauge wires. The rule of thumb in boating is you can go a little bigger than needed just never smaller! Hope that helps! Good luck with your wiring! 🤙
This video hyped me up ima go drag my wife to help me do this also
Awesome man!! Post videos! 🤙
Just found the channel, great videos! Question about your NAV / ANCHOR light setup - does your ANCHOR light illuminate when your NAV lights are illuminated? It is supposed to. You need a RED light, GREEN light and a WHITE light illuminated at night when you operate your boat. The ANCHOR light is illuminated by itself when you are at anchor at night. 👍
Thanks Mikey! We appreciate that! And that’s a great tip! Our lights are on different switches so anchor light has its own switch and so do the nav lights! That way we have the ability to turn them off and on in case we’re just anchored or underway! 🤙🍻
Something that i have gotten into the habit of, offset the + and - joints. They will pull through and tuck away better. Not even a shade tree here, cars, trailers, and boats on a farm for like 30 years
That’s a good tip man thanks! That convertible mustang prob deserved it! 🤣
Good job except just for me no one else you didn’t say what gauge of wires you were using for each. One question if you have a fuse block with negative at the top of it what is the purpose of the positive and negative bus bar? I’m trying to understand that in general
Thank you! I actually did mention the gauge wires I used in the video. The lights got 16g because they’re led and the pumps got 14g. 9:44 & 13:18
As far as the purpose of the busbar, there aren’t any rules that say you can’t run the wires straight to the fuse block. In my case, to keep things clean I opted to add the busbar then run wires to the fuse block. That allows me to run wires elsewhere in case I want to add another fuse block in the future, I’d have a place to connect power from. Thanks for the comment! 🤙
so are you just bringing all of those extra negative bus bars to the main fuse panel ground?
The one under the helm runs back to the fuse panel correct! And the negative bus at the stern connects to the battery. Hope that helps! 🤙
You spent good money on blue sea fuse blocks and bus bars...why did you cheap out on the switches?
Cheap switches cost $60 bucks for both sets. A decent 8 switch system from blue sea costs $250-300. I’d need two of those in my case. The switches will be out in the elements with sun rain etc. No switch is going to last more than a few years being exposed anyway so I figured if they go bad, I can change it out by just buying a new one off Amazon and swap it out quick. I can buy 6 cheap switch sets and swap them out before reaching the cost of 2 newer blue seas switches. 👍
Good job, wanna come finish mine now? 😂
Real question though: I have a deep cycle battery, and a cranking battery that will only be used for the outboard motor of my sailboat. They are independently charged by a sport HD charging bank. We aren't going on huge trips, just a few hours at a time. Do you think there is a good reason for us to use the 1/2/both switch? We had been planning on not ever using the deep cycle to start the engine, or the cranking to run anything but the engine. We were thinking the only thing that would physically cost the two would be the deep cycle negative connecting to the cranking negative, so the deep cycle battery gets grounded to the engine.
Thanks for the comment Beth! If you are in south Florida I’d be happy to come help! 😂 as far as the 1/2/both switch, I’ll give you a quick story. We installed these brand new batteries and everything worked great. One day we were trying to start the motor and it wouldn’t turn. We tried and tried and it turned out to be the kill switch. The problem was that we didn’t realize how many times we were actually trying to turn the motor over and the battery got low enough were it didn’t have enough cranking power to create spark. We turned the switch to both and voila she turned over. Point of the whole thing is you might want to have it and not need it than to not have and need it. These switches aren’t too expensive and Imo they’re worth it! Hope that helps! 🤙
@@perfectfitboating OK, so that's not really compelling enough to anger my husband over changing this switch choice for the fourth time...our outboard can be pull started, so he intends that to be the back up.
Do I still need the negative bus bar or can I get away with just the fuse box
Hey Andrew! I would use a busbar. It allows you to have other negatives to ground to something instead of the battery. You shouldn’t have more than 4 items on a battery post. Do you HAVE to? No. But it makes sense to use one. Hope that helps!
Can you skip the ACR and run power from your main switch straight to the fuse panel? Or is the ACR needed?
Hey Daniel thanks for the comment! Yes you can run power straight to the fuse panel from the switch. It’s actually already wired where the switch sends power directly to the fuse panel. The acr works while the switch is turned on and is on its own circuit doing its thing which is allowing current to flow to battery 1 and 2 as needed. Hope that helped! 🤙
@@perfectfitboating thank you for the quick response. Very helpful and your video is awesome! Thanks again. Just ordered my parts. Getting ready to re-wire all my electronics and pumps.
You got it brother! Anytime!
If my canoe flips and gets water inside will that cause a person to get electrocuted???
No, it won’t.
My only question is I thought the Anchor light is installed at the stern. It makes more sense visibly where you put it but don't you have to have a white running light at the stern?
That’s a good question because it’s also called a “stern light”. I went on the uscg rules and there isn’t any writing on the actual location of the light. But I found this “For power-driven vessels less than 39 .4 feet (12 meters) in length, the masthead or all-round white light must be at least 3 .3 feet (1 meter) above the sidelights”. I think I’m ok but now you got me thinking’ thanks for the question! 👍
For my sailboat we are required to have a stern light, a red and green pair at the bow, and one on our mast
If I’m not mistaken, sailboats require different lights as opposed to power boats. 🍻
@@perfectfitboating OK, I see now. You do need to have a light that lights in front of you, at least 39 inches higher than your sidelights. And if that light is not a 360 degree light, you need to add a stern light that lights behind you (but this doesn't have to be as high). In other words, if you aren't a sailboat, you can get away with putting an all-around light raised on a pole at your stern. Sailboats don't do this because we have that whole "sails are in the way of the light" issue, so we rig a light into our mast.
Yes that sounds right! So many navigation rules it’s hard to know all of them!
I am in desperate need of some guidance for my pontoon. I have 5 batteries total. I want to make sure they are all hooked up correctly. I have 4 things but possible 5th that’ll require power. I have one Pecko 2 way switch already installed - 1, 2, All and OFF. I also have 2 onboard battery chargers. 1 is 2 bank and 1 is a 3 Bank. I can send pics or specs if needed.
1. Motor/ignition
2. Trolling motor 80lb thrust
3. Garmin Depth Finder
4. 8 speaker w 2 12” subs stereo
5. Possible re-hook up bilge pump
Main ? Is how to hook up all of these appropriately if you can give any advice I would be forever grateful!
Hey brad thanks for the comment. I’m not expert by any means but I might be able to help.
1. Your motor should have a battery cable coming off the starter which will hook up to your switch (+) and to your starting battery (-) your motor harness has a wire that is power for ignition.
2. From what I’ve seen, your trolling motor should have its own dedicated battery. The way I would wire this up would be with a separate on/off switch and a proper fuse.
3. Your depth finder can be powered from your main fuse block. The fuse block is getting power from your main switch. There should be a fuse after and closest to the switch for this long run to the fuse block.
4. I’ve never wired speakers but I would think it’s the same as any appliance. From the fuse block to amplifier or receiver or whatever.
5. Bilge pump would be the same. Check out our other video where we hook up the bilge pump!
I hope this helps. If not shoot me an email and I’ll be happy to go back and for with you with ideas. Thanks brad! 🤙
I was also thinking, depending on what trolling motor you have, you might need more than one battery. So, another question I had was which batteries are you using for what? 1 starter battery 1 house battery and 3 trolling motor batteries? I’m not sure if those trolling motors run off 12, 24 or 36 volt.
@@perfectfitboating thank you for the tips! I will try that and see what happens. Just doing some RE-configuring to maximize performance of setup.
Anytime! Let me know how it goes!🤙
I am planning to rewire my skiff this winter. I think from your videos I should be able to do it. I’m tired of all of my wiring looking like a birds nest.
That’s awesome Anthony! I’m glad the videos can help! If you need any more help shoot me an email. I’m happy to help and give you suggestions! 🤙
Good wiring job, bilge pump should not be wired to the switch panel like that. The switch is fine but it should be wired to be always on regardless of the battery switch position. Has to bypass the battery switch. The reason is the bilge pump is a safety item and it like VHF should be wireddirectly to the battery so that they still work in the event of an emergency and someone accidentally turns off the battery switch.
Thanks for the comment. I also have the bilge wired directly to the house battery via the float switch. I’m thinking of adding a dedicated and separate bilge pump switch as well. Thanks! 👍
@Patrick-nodak yep! Thank you!
@Patrick-nodak That's why you have solar.
First time trailering current boat, bilge kicked on and went down the side of a convertible mustang, if you are out there I am so incredibly sorry
Buen trabajo amigo pero mi ingles no es bueno . Si hubieran sido en español me huviera ahorado mucho dinero
Saludos
Gracias y disculpa por eso. Déjame ver si puede poner subtítulos en español. Así te ayuda! 🤙
Agregue subtítulos en español. Me dejas saber si te ayuda! 🤙
Buenas amigo desafortunadamente los subtitulos se mantienen en ingles gracias por tu tiempo
😢
Hermano arregle el problema de los subtítulos. Estoy agregando los subtítulos a todos los videos 🤙
VERY PROFESSIONAL LOOKING
Thanks! 🤙