Thanks for an excellent vid. Nearly all of the vids on how to use the Redding S die use the Competition die with the micrometer on top, hence nice to see a vid using the ordinary S die for us plebs! Good tip at the end on using the calipers on the base of the die to the lock ring if you need a fine adjustment on the die of say 1,000th.
Yup what Luvta said, you should be removing the primers first before measuring headspace for that very reason. The reason why the die comes with the decapping pin retainer is because other than the expander button, another way to expand necks is with an expander mandrel vs the button. As the button can introduce concentricity issues, and pull the headspace out longer than where it was set initially when sizing the brass down in the first place.
That or do what I did with my hornady because I use a mandrel to expand. Grind down your expander button so It doesn’t touch the inside of the case neck.
I'm not sure about leaving that mandral in there. I just measured my necks and they are all over the place. I think the mandral is expanding them after the neck bushing shrinks the neck. There is a build up copper on the inside of the neck and each neck thickness is different so maybe it is what it is. Either the mandral will expand the neck or the bullet when seating it. I learned cleaning the inside of the neck with a copper brush is a terrible idea and I'm not going to start neck turning.
I take the other route... I'm using mandrels to expand the neck. Redding is expensive and I don't make a pile of money so I use tools that are less expensive to do the same thing. It all works in the end though and popping milk jugs at 1100+ yards with a .308 Win is proof that it works. Hello from Cody unless you're in Cody then in that case, howdy neighbor.
I have mandrels also and use them in the process. I think the bushing helps reduce working the brass more than necessary - maybe not. I've been trending back to just using the FL die.
I have no experience with the Wilson micrometer that fits over their gages but I'm betting that the fired case should be decapped before using. Even the slightest of primer crater will stand proud of the case head and skew your results. Also, the die comes with both a decapping pin retainer and an expander button because one (the former) is used for high-quality brass like Lapua or neck-turned cases and one (the latter) is used for common everyday brass, which can have inconsistent neck-wall thickness. Good vid, gave you a 👍
With the ram down I could move the die down to the bottom of the threads if I wanted - in this case it was moved about .003" down. Less than a sheet of paper. I've thought about getting the Redding Competition shell holder set and just leaving the die as is. Then I would only change the shell holder. Thanks!
I need to amend this response - I see what you are saying. Once the die is bottomed out to the ram you gain no more sizing. I will have to review the raw video, perhaps I had backed the die off and done an edit. Thank you for pointing this out.
Just found this and it made it very clear on what I needed to do!! So Thank you for your time and guidance!!
Thanks for an excellent vid. Nearly all of the vids on how to use the Redding S die use the Competition die with the micrometer on top, hence nice to see a vid using the ordinary S die for us plebs! Good tip at the end on using the calipers on the base of the die to the lock ring if you need a fine adjustment on the die of say 1,000th.
Yup what Luvta said, you should be removing the primers first before measuring headspace for that very reason. The reason why the die comes with the decapping pin retainer is because other than the expander button, another way to expand necks is with an expander mandrel vs the button. As the button can introduce concentricity issues, and pull the headspace out longer than where it was set initially when sizing the brass down in the first place.
Covered removing primer on our new sizing video.
Good video. Tried to love the Wilson micrometer case gauge but couldn’t. It’s awful.
That or do what I did with my hornady because I use a mandrel to expand. Grind down your expander button so It doesn’t touch the inside of the case neck.
I'm not sure about leaving that mandral in there. I just measured my necks and they are all over the place. I think the mandral is expanding them after the neck bushing shrinks the neck. There is a build up copper on the inside of the neck and each neck thickness is different so maybe it is what it is. Either the mandral will expand the neck or the bullet when seating it. I learned cleaning the inside of the neck with a copper brush is a terrible idea and I'm not going to start neck turning.
I take the other route... I'm using mandrels to expand the neck. Redding is expensive and I don't make a pile of money so I use tools that are less expensive to do the same thing. It all works in the end though and popping milk jugs at 1100+ yards with a .308 Win is proof that it works. Hello from Cody unless you're in Cody then in that case, howdy neighbor.
I have mandrels also and use them in the process. I think the bushing helps reduce working the brass more than necessary - maybe not. I've been trending back to just using the FL die.
I have no experience with the Wilson micrometer that fits over their gages but I'm betting that the fired case should be decapped before using. Even the slightest of primer crater will stand proud of the case head and skew your results. Also, the die comes with both a decapping pin retainer and an expander button because one (the former) is used for high-quality brass like Lapua or neck-turned cases and one (the latter) is used for common everyday brass, which can have inconsistent neck-wall thickness. Good vid, gave you a 👍
I'll do an experiment and see if the primer does show a different reading. You may be on to something. Thanks!
Do you use an expander die after using the bushing die?
When loading for my LR rifle, I do.
what for ? Either or...... preference. Concentricity tells all.
How can you run the die down further when you were already touching the shell holder?
With the ram down I could move the die down to the bottom of the threads if I wanted - in this case it was moved about .003" down. Less than a sheet of paper. I've thought about getting the Redding Competition shell holder set and just leaving the die as is. Then I would only change the shell holder.
Thanks!
I need to amend this response - I see what you are saying. Once the die is bottomed out to the ram you gain no more sizing. I will have to review the raw video, perhaps I had backed the die off and done an edit. Thank you for pointing this out.
@@bigwyomingadventures5908 or use feeler gages, alot cheaper.