Thank you for producing this video! I've been procrastinating on purchasing bushing dies because I wasn't quite sure how to get this done correctly. Thanks for what you do here!
I measured the brass thicknes as shown, calculated the bushing size and got excellent loads. But, that was with new brass, I didn't appreciate the brass wall thickness changing for fired brass, and for that matter other brands of brass and was surprised when my seated bullets sliped out of position! The lesson learned is that I have to sort my brass by wall thickness and choose a different bushing for each group. A warning to all, don't fall into this trap, measure!
Thanks for your videos. When I first started watching them, I thought everything was related exactly, and then found very many details you share are ancillary info of utmost cool info.
Sam, First off, I would like to say thank you for sharing all your knowledge with us. You are truly the best on UA-cam at explaining what you do. My question is do you trim your brass before you shoulder bump it? It makes sense to do so, because you are taking away a couple of thousandth of the overall length, but I just want to be sure before I do so. Thanks again
Sam, I'm so glad you posted this video. I have once-fired brass, but I didn't measure it before I fired it. Would a good approach be sizing +/- 5 cases using a full length die with expander ball, then load the bullets and then measuring to find an average loaded outside diameter? I don't have the tool to measure the wall thickness. Thank you thank you. Your videos have helped me a lot.
Nick Aylett You might find that whatever outside neck diameter the die leaves you with is the bushing number you need. Standard dies I've used have given me .001-.002 less than loaded round. Run one through the die, then measure the neck OD before and after you seat a bullet.👍🏻
So I just started using the bushing dies , but theres a mixed discussion on using a mandrel as well to get the proper inside dimension , another die / process lol So my question to you Sam is , I dont see you mentioning it , are you using a mandrel after or just running the bushing die ? Thank you
I found this video from a linked article. You say “remove the decapping rod and expander from the Type S dies. An expander IS NOT needed when using a bushing die.” this has left me a little confused. Can you explain how it sizes the neck without the expander?
Hi Sam your UA-cam channel is the best and most informative around on this subject just a quick question on the bushing die sets Do you need a bushing for each die Thank you in advance Paul.
Great video. But when you say measure a "Loaded" round, then subtract .001-.003 for a good Neck Bushing size to get, are you referring to a store bought round when measuring for a reference? Or are you referring to a handloaded full length sized round as a reference? Thanks.
Yeah I’m a little confused on this part as well. So do you full Length resize a piece of brass measure then load a bullet and measure again? Or will a factory loaded round work that uses the same brass I’m gonna use.
Sam, this has to be done on an already sized case correct? Meaning if you have fired brass obviously the bullet will just fall in the case neck. So this measurement has to be done to a sized case and then you can put your bushing in and size the rest of the cases, right? Thank you in advance
It shouldn't be an issue. .001" is plenty. I've even run cases over a mandrel that was .0005" under bullet diameter with good results. It doesn't take much to hold a bullet in place.
Have you tried Lee collet dies? Its what I used in the belief that I won't need to neck turn. Is neck turning really needed when using Lapua brass? And are bushing dies better than Lee collet dies for precision? Thanks for all the videos.
So bushings will likely vary depending on what brand of brass I use? Different bushings for different brands of brass? And when the micrometer isn’t reading an exact number or when it’s in between say 14-15 thousands, would you go with the higher number or the lower?
You forgot to allow for spring back. When I ordered my bushings for my 6mm I ordered a 271 for a loaded case of .272, and it was not enough tension, 270 turned out just right.
When you said take a measurement from a loaded round ,does it have to be a round already reloaded or you can take a reading from a off the shelves round ?
So, different brass, different wall thickness, different dimensions, different bushing, correct? Neck turning would affect that dimension as well, correct?
Your video certainly simplifies how to do this. Thanks. I was wondering if you use a Redding Competition Bushing Die Carbide Size Button Kit in conjunction with this bushing and if there are benefits to using or not using the button kit? I'm reloading for a 223. Thanks again.
Great Channel. How many reload do you typically get before you end up with a small donut forming inside the neck? Do you have to ream brass if you use bushing dies?
Glad I found your UA-cam channel. Great videos. I normally use .002" for bushing size and order "up" and "down" from actual neck size. I load for long-range precision hunting. I am not a match shooter. Is .001" enough for a hunting round? Thanks in advance for your feedback.
Yes, .001" will hold just fine. The only time I have a problem with it is if I'm running a compressed charge. It's amazing how much difference using .002" makes in that case. From an accuracy or consistency standpoint, I think either will work, and I've never had a bullet move with .001" NT if the charge wasn't compressed. If you're having good results with .002", I wouldn't change it.
I am building a 6.5 creedmoor rifle for long range shooting have you loaded any creedmoor and what size bushing would you use using factory brass hornady now but will switch to Lapua bass for better accuracy
When you are starting to reload a particular caliber, and have a couple different brands of brass, do you, or have you, ordered a range of bushing sizes to have all possibilities covered? Thanks for another great video.
Yes, and after awhile you'll end up with a pretty good assortment. I still get my hands on some brass to measure first, though. The bushings are pretty spendy.
Your videos are great, I bought the Redding type S competition dies, the Ball Caliper, the Digital Caliper and everything based on your videos. So if I turn my Lapua Brass for .308 all to 14 thousandths neck thickness I can just order a .335 bushing, or would you recommend loading one too and measuring it then subtracting 1 thousandth. Is the RCBS Ball caliper good enough as well? I also got the Bench Source Vertex annealing machine, would you anneal before or after you size, I am finding a lot of conflicting opinions on that, or does it not matter so long as I do it the same every time. Your videos are both very informative, and enjoyable to watch and easily understood. Keep up the great work, Subscribed!!!
Your calculation may be off on the 2nd method. I measured some Hornady, Scenar, and Sierra bullets and none of them measured 0.264. They all came in at 0.262 - 0.263. Any reason why you do not turn your necks?
I noticed the hornady eldx in 7mm wasnt .284 it was .2835 consistently but it had some under..... didnt like seeing that... so I round up for tension I'd rather have .0025 than .0015 for hunting rounds
Hello Sam. I’m new to loading and am trying to wrap my head around the processes. I’ve watched a lot of videos trying to learn the best brass sizing processes. You’re videos are excellent and they are helping me a lot. Here’s one thing I haven’t quite figured out yet… Brass necks expand when fired. Bushing dies resize the brass smaller (which makes absolute sense to me) but what is the purpose of the mandrel dies? It seems that everyone is talking about over working your brass so I don’t yet understand the value in expanding a neck only to run it through a bushing after when it’s already too wide to die to being fired. Maybe this is a super super basic question but I’m new and any input would be greatly appreciated. Do you have to use both processes (mandrel dies & bushing dies) also why?
I’m right there with you. I have the Redding type “S” F/L bushing die and a 21st century expander mandrel. I’ve heard you can do both, bushing followed up by the mandrel. I’ve heard just the bushing or just the mandrel. Once I get going I’m going to try all 3 and see what happens.
just getting into reloading for semi-auto's, done a bit with 260 rem/308 in a bolt gun, but nothin with self loading guns. Just built a grendel and it shoots great but I want to obviously take it to the next level and load for it. i'm usually a Lee kind of guy, though I do use RCBS as well, I just really love the lee collet die. however I was considering Forster or Redding to give em a go. however from what I,ve read you need to FL size for the AR. also, Lee doesn't offer a 6.5 grendel collet die. any tips? I think I might just get the forster die set for it if all else fails and go from there. or should I look into neck sizing with a bushing die setup?
I've used a Redding standard FL sizing die as well as a Redding Type S FL bushing sizing die for .223 in an AR15. They both work well. I bump the shoulders .003" on gas gun ammo and run .002-.003" neck tension with no crimp.
Hey Sam, does this apply to virgin brass too? Do I need to shoot it first and then resize it and then get the neckwall thickness? I’m stumped on what to do with this virgin brass or where to start as a new handloader. So far I cleaned the inside and outside of the case mouth with a deburr too and deburred the flash holes and ran the case necks through a mandrel die with neck mandrel. The rifle is a 7 saum and the brass is Bertram. I have Redding type s full sizing die but haven’t got bushings yet. I chambered all 101 pieces and they all chambered fine except two had a little bit of bolt stiffness. Pls help. Thnx !
When I measure a new piece of loaded Lapua .338 brass I obtain a measurement of .668 when I use the second method I have a case neck thickness of .16. Doing the math does not add up. .338+.032=.658. What am I doing wrong and what size bushing should I order?
One of the measurements is obviously wrong. If you aren't using a ball micrometer to measure neck thickness, that's probably the one. Your math is a little off, too. The measurements are likely .010" off, but they should look more like .368" and .370". .015"-.0155" is probably a good thickness measurement. Without measuring it myself, I would order a .366" bushing and use the expander in the die.
Ok so if you just subtracted a thousandths and called it good, doesnt that only work if the brass had zero spring back and stayed exactly where you put it? Dont you need to subtract another 2 thou for springback?
hi, do u use any concentricity tool like the hornadys or the RCBS to measure wall thickness and bullet runout? in that case, do u like to correct the runout with the tool like the hornady does?
So this may be the subject of a video in and of itself, but when it comes to neck sizing vs. crimping, would you mind explaining briefly for us novices why you favor one over the other?
There is no good reason for a handloader to crimp rifle rounds that aren't fed from a magazine where they're stacked nose to butt. I use this same process for my AR15 ammo, only with .003" neck tension. It's simple, fast, and effective.
do you do anything different if you turn your case necks? meaning .001 grip is less grip with a neck of .013 than a .015 neck. so I guess how do you determine you have enough tension and not too much or too little?
It's all trial and error. I've used .001" NT for necks from .0125 to .015 with great results. You would think caliber would make a difference, too, but I run .264 the same way as .338. They all work well. I've also noticed a lot of tolerance to NT deviations within loads. panhandleprecision.com/redding-bushing-dies-select-proper-bushing/
So if you either change your bullet or change your case you'll always need to take a new measurement on that loaded combination to get an accurate number.
Bullets can vary by .0005”, so there’s not much you can or should do about that. Brass can vary in thickness by .0025”, so you’ll need to account for that if you change headstamp.
Jim Arnold Yes. I use .001" for everything as long as it shoots well. That's plenty to hold the bullet in place. You can check it by pushing a loaded round against a piece of wood.
In your experience, what is the difference between .001 and .002. Do you feel you get better accuracy, MV, or a lower SD/ES? Or do you prefer .001 simply because it works the brass that much less? Thanks!
I don't notice any difference between .001, .0015, and .002. There probably isn't any difference in brass work hardening either. I wanted to be consistent, and .001 is the first one I tried. It works, so I stuck with it. I will point out though, that .002" can help hold a bullet in place when the load is compressed. There's no harm in trying different tensions.
Don't you take case spring back into account when selecting the bushing? In other words, using a bushing that is sized to .293 doesn't result in a case mouth of the same dimension because the brass' natural tendency to spring back. That means that if you are shooing for .293, your bushing should be .295+/-, depending on the type/brand of case you are using in your reload as well as its age.
Kaneguy No. Order the bushing size according to the OD you want the sized neck to be. Occasionally, a bushing won’t match what it’s marked as, but generally they do. .293 = .293” OD.
Thank you for producing this video! I've been procrastinating on purchasing bushing dies because I wasn't quite sure how to get this done correctly. Thanks for what you do here!
I measured the brass thicknes as shown, calculated the bushing size and got excellent loads. But, that was with new brass, I didn't appreciate the brass wall thickness changing for fired brass, and for that matter other brands of brass and was surprised when my seated bullets sliped out of position! The lesson learned is that I have to sort my brass by wall thickness and choose a different bushing for each group. A warning to all, don't fall into this trap, measure!
I just used this method with fantastic results. Thank you sir. 6.5cm ruger precision
Great video you covered all my questions I had with these new dies I just ordered for my custom AR-10 IN 22-250 went with the Type S-Match.
Thanks for your videos. When I first started watching them, I thought everything was related exactly, and then found very many details you share are ancillary info of utmost cool info.
Thanks for all of your efforts, I really enjoy the reloading content. It's been really helpful. Thanks Sam!
You rock mate, love listening to your video's, you explain things so darn well, and your knowledge so darn extensive .. just love it.. thanks.
Sam,
First off, I would like to say thank you for sharing all your knowledge with us. You are truly the best on UA-cam at explaining what you do.
My question is do you trim your brass before you shoulder bump it? It makes sense to do so, because you are taking away a couple of thousandth of the overall length, but I just want to be sure before I do so.
Thanks again
I trim after sizing.
Panhandle Precision, thank you sir
is that a factory loaded round? if you reloaded it how do you know where you should start? if its off and you size it you're still going to be off
Thank you for this video, realy helped me understand how to use neck bushings.
I’ve been looking for this info thank you for all your help as I watched all your vids and your the best
Sam, I'm so glad you posted this video. I have once-fired brass, but I didn't measure it before I fired it. Would a good approach be sizing +/- 5 cases using a full length die with expander ball, then load the bullets and then measuring to find an average loaded outside diameter? I don't have the tool to measure the wall thickness.
Thank you thank you.
Your videos have helped me a lot.
Nick Aylett You might find that whatever outside neck diameter the die leaves you with is the bushing number you need. Standard dies I've used have given me .001-.002 less than loaded round. Run one through the die, then measure the neck OD before and after you seat a bullet.👍🏻
Thanks Sam. Will the loaded round OD read the same whether there is 1,2, or 3 thousandths NT?
Nick Aylett Yes.
So I just started using the bushing dies , but theres a mixed discussion on using a mandrel as well to get the proper inside dimension , another die / process lol So my question to you Sam is , I dont see you mentioning it , are you using a mandrel after or just running the bushing die ? Thank you
I found this video from a linked article. You say “remove the decapping rod and expander from the Type S dies. An expander IS NOT needed when using a bushing die.” this has left me a little confused. Can you explain how it sizes the neck without the expander?
Thanks for the info!!! Are all bushings the same size? Interchangeable between dies? (example: 21 century die but with Short Action Custom bushing?)
Hi Sam your UA-cam channel is the best and most informative around on this subject just a quick question on the bushing die sets Do you need a bushing for each die Thank you in advance Paul.
Great video. But when you say measure a "Loaded" round, then subtract .001-.003 for a good Neck Bushing size to get, are you referring to a store bought round when measuring for a reference? Or are you referring to a handloaded full length sized round as a reference? Thanks.
Ole Ironhead Use the brand of brass that you plan to size. The thickness of the brass is what matters when it comes to bushing size.
Yeah I’m a little confused on this part as well. So do you full
Length resize a piece of brass measure then load a bullet and measure again? Or will a factory loaded round work that uses the same brass I’m gonna use.
Sam, this has to be done on an already sized case correct? Meaning if you have fired brass obviously the bullet will just fall in the case neck. So this measurement has to be done to a sized case and then you can put your bushing in and size the rest of the cases, right? Thank you in advance
Yes
Ive heard people mention going a size smaller than they need to deal with spring back. Is this an issue, or not so much when only using .001 NT?
It shouldn't be an issue. .001" is plenty. I've even run cases over a mandrel that was .0005" under bullet diameter with good results. It doesn't take much to hold a bullet in place.
Have you tried Lee collet dies? Its what I used in the belief that I won't need to neck turn. Is neck turning really needed when using Lapua brass? And are bushing dies better than Lee collet dies for precision? Thanks for all the videos.
So bushings will likely vary depending on what brand of brass I use? Different bushings for different brands of brass? And when the micrometer isn’t reading an exact number or when it’s in between say 14-15 thousands, would you go with the higher number or the lower?
You forgot to allow for spring back. When I ordered my bushings for my 6mm I ordered a 271 for a loaded case of .272, and it was not enough tension, 270 turned out just right.
Jay Gorski good point! Do you personnaly always use a 0.001 springback?
@@perrseb5772 .0005" to .001"
What brass are you using ?
Jim Biddle Federal and Nosler in 30-06
@@jimbiddle8646 Original brass is Hornady, also have Alpha and ADG, ADG is very slightly thicker. Alpha is ever soo slightly thinner than Hornady.
When you said take a measurement from a loaded round ,does it have to be a round already reloaded or you can take a reading from a off the shelves round ?
JT It just has to be the brass you’ll be using.
So, different brass, different wall thickness, different dimensions, different bushing, correct? Neck turning would affect that dimension as well, correct?
@@additudeobx Yes. When these bushing dies are used correctly the eliminate the runout problems that cause the need to neck turn altogether.
Your video certainly simplifies how to do this. Thanks. I was wondering if you use a Redding Competition Bushing Die Carbide Size Button Kit in conjunction with this bushing and if there are benefits to using or not using the button kit? I'm reloading for a 223. Thanks again.
You're a champ Sam. Thanks for the education!
should i get multiple bushings when the case neck gets thinner do you need to change bushings, stretching and trimming?
Great Channel. How many reload do you typically get before you end up with a small donut forming inside the neck? Do you have to ream brass if you use bushing dies?
I have no idea. I don't check for it or worry about it.
Ok thanks for the reply! Always looking forward to your new videos. Tight groups.
Very clear Sam, thank you
Glad I found your UA-cam channel. Great videos. I normally use .002" for bushing size and order "up" and "down" from actual neck size. I load for long-range precision hunting. I am not a match shooter. Is .001" enough for a hunting round? Thanks in advance for your feedback.
Yes, .001" will hold just fine. The only time I have a problem with it is if I'm running a compressed charge. It's amazing how much difference using .002" makes in that case. From an accuracy or consistency standpoint, I think either will work, and I've never had a bullet move with .001" NT if the charge wasn't compressed. If you're having good results with .002", I wouldn't change it.
I am building a 6.5 creedmoor rifle for long range shooting have you loaded any creedmoor and what size bushing would you use using factory brass hornady now but will switch to Lapua bass for better accuracy
When you are starting to reload a particular caliber, and have a couple different brands of brass, do you, or have you, ordered a range of bushing sizes to have all possibilities covered? Thanks for another great video.
Yes, and after awhile you'll end up with a pretty good assortment. I still get my hands on some brass to measure first, though. The bushings are pretty spendy.
Norma make brass for Nosler....
Your videos are great, I bought the Redding type S competition dies, the Ball Caliper, the Digital Caliper and everything based on your videos. So if I turn my Lapua Brass for .308 all to 14 thousandths neck thickness I can just order a .335 bushing, or would you recommend loading one too and measuring it then subtracting 1 thousandth. Is the RCBS Ball caliper good enough as well? I also got the Bench Source Vertex annealing machine, would you anneal before or after you size, I am finding a lot of conflicting opinions on that, or does it not matter so long as I do it the same every time. Your videos are both very informative, and enjoyable to watch and easily understood. Keep up the great work, Subscribed!!!
Your calculation may be off on the 2nd method. I measured some Hornady, Scenar, and Sierra bullets and none of them measured 0.264. They all came in at 0.262 - 0.263. Any reason
why you do not turn your necks?
I noticed the hornady eldx in 7mm wasnt .284 it was .2835 consistently but it had some under..... didnt like seeing that... so I round up for tension I'd rather have .0025 than .0015 for hunting rounds
Hello Sam. I’m new to loading and am trying to wrap my head around the processes. I’ve watched a lot of videos trying to learn the best brass sizing processes. You’re videos are excellent and they are helping me a lot.
Here’s one thing I haven’t quite figured out yet… Brass necks expand when fired. Bushing dies resize the brass smaller (which makes absolute sense to me) but what is the purpose of the mandrel dies? It seems that everyone is talking about over working your brass so I don’t yet understand the value in expanding a neck only to run it through a bushing after when it’s already too wide to die to being fired.
Maybe this is a super super basic question but I’m new and any input would be greatly appreciated.
Do you have to use both processes (mandrel dies & bushing dies) also why?
I’m right there with you. I have the Redding type “S” F/L bushing die and a 21st century expander mandrel. I’ve heard you can do both, bushing followed up by the mandrel. I’ve heard just the bushing or just the mandrel. Once I get going I’m going to try all 3 and see what happens.
just getting into reloading for semi-auto's, done a bit with 260 rem/308 in a bolt gun, but nothin with self loading guns. Just built a grendel and it shoots great but I want to obviously take it to the next level and load for it. i'm usually a Lee kind of guy, though I do use RCBS as well, I just really love the lee collet die. however I was considering Forster or Redding to give em a go. however from what I,ve read you need to FL size for the AR. also, Lee doesn't offer a 6.5 grendel collet die.
any tips? I think I might just get the forster die set for it if all else fails and go from there. or should I look into neck sizing with a bushing die setup?
I've used a Redding standard FL sizing die as well as a Redding Type S FL bushing sizing die for .223 in an AR15. They both work well. I bump the shoulders .003" on gas gun ammo and run .002-.003" neck tension with no crimp.
Hello, you say .001 for the neck but is .002 just as good? Redding recommends .002
Thank you
Hey Sam, does this apply to virgin brass too? Do I need to shoot it first and then resize it and then get the neckwall thickness? I’m stumped on what to do with this virgin brass or where to start as a new handloader. So far I cleaned the inside and outside of the case mouth with a deburr too and deburred the flash holes and ran the case necks through a mandrel die with neck mandrel.
The rifle is a 7 saum and the brass is Bertram. I have Redding type s full sizing die but haven’t got bushings yet.
I chambered all 101 pieces and they all chambered fine except two had a little bit of bolt stiffness.
Pls help.
Thnx !
That's what I was wondering too.
When I measure a new piece of loaded Lapua .338 brass I obtain a measurement of .668 when I use the second method I have a case neck thickness of .16. Doing the math does not add up. .338+.032=.658. What am I doing wrong and what size bushing should I order?
One of the measurements is obviously wrong. If you aren't using a ball micrometer to measure neck thickness, that's probably the one.
Your math is a little off, too. The measurements are likely .010" off, but they should look more like .368" and .370".
.015"-.0155" is probably a good thickness measurement. Without measuring it myself, I would order a .366" bushing and use the expander in the die.
Ok so if you just subtracted a thousandths and called it good, doesnt that only work if the brass had zero spring back and stayed exactly where you put it? Dont you need to subtract another 2 thou for springback?
hi, do u use any concentricity tool like the hornadys or the RCBS to measure wall thickness and bullet runout? in that case, do u like to correct the runout with the tool like the hornady does?
I don't worry about runout anymore. I sample check brass for neck wall thickness variation with the Sinclair tool.
do you neck turn the neck with the sinclair neck turning tool or u just measure wall thickness?
Can you use this die to neck down a case? Example, 300 Norma die, with 7mm bushing to form 7mm-300 Norma brass?
I noticed the lathe in the background of some of your videos. Are you a barrel smith?
I'm just learning how to use it. It's for personal use only to help keep me shooting fresh barrels.
i have been gathering info on a .308 build and i am at that point where i need to choose a barrel smith.any recommendations?
David, I sent you an email.
Very helpful.
Would I use the same formula for a rcbs gold match bushing die?
Yes.
So this may be the subject of a video in and of itself, but when it comes to neck sizing vs. crimping, would you mind explaining briefly for us novices why you favor one over the other?
There is no good reason for a handloader to crimp rifle rounds that aren't fed from a magazine where they're stacked nose to butt. I use this same process for my AR15 ammo, only with .003" neck tension. It's simple, fast, and effective.
do you do anything different if you turn your case necks? meaning .001 grip is less grip with a neck of .013 than a .015 neck. so I guess how do you determine you have enough tension and not too much or too little?
It's all trial and error. I've used .001" NT for necks from .0125 to .015 with great results. You would think caliber would make a difference, too, but I run .264 the same way as .338. They all work well. I've also noticed a lot of tolerance to NT deviations within loads. panhandleprecision.com/redding-bushing-dies-select-proper-bushing/
Panhandle Precision thanks. next time I'll take your advise and read the article first. lots of good stuff in there
So I ordered Brand new 243 Lapua Brass . Not been fired yet. Can I use brand new unfixed Brass and use your formula?
JT Yes. If you have a ball mic, measure the thickness and multiply by two. If not, seat a bullet and measure the OD with calipers.
Panhandle Precision / . Just subscribed to your channel . Thank you for the material and info you provide on your channel.
So my 6.5 prc comes in at .293 so I need a.292? And do you know if Redding bushings fit in the new RCBS MatchMaster ?
Yes, I would use a .292 for a .293" loaded neck. I have no idea about the RCBS die being compatible.
Panhandle Precision I could not fined a .292 only a .290 so that’s what I ordered
What’s the best neck tension for a hunting load?
.002-.003”
Interference or press fit.
Just discovered my caliper was off. Bought new RCBS dial caliper and the bullets
are measuring right at 0.264. My bad !
Nice job! Thanks!
Is this .260 rem Lapua brass? I use the same bushing size with my Lapua .260 brass.
Yes.
So if you either change your bullet or change your case you'll always need to take a new measurement on that loaded combination to get an accurate number.
Bullets can vary by .0005”, so there’s not much you can or should do about that. Brass can vary in thickness by .0025”, so you’ll need to account for that if you change headstamp.
@@PanhandlePrecision That is good to know; thanks a bunch. I should have realized how precise rifle bullets are made!
thanks for the video it makes sense now
Would you use the same .001" for a hunting load?
Jim Arnold Yes. I use .001" for everything as long as it shoots well. That's plenty to hold the bullet in place. You can check it by pushing a loaded round against a piece of wood.
Thanks
What about Brass Springback?
I did this and 4 out of 10 loaded the bullets are loose in the brass what am I doing wrong🤷🏻♂️ I’m lost
In your experience, what is the difference between .001 and .002. Do you feel you get better accuracy, MV, or a lower SD/ES? Or do you prefer .001 simply because it works the brass that much less? Thanks!
I don't notice any difference between .001, .0015, and .002. There probably isn't any difference in brass work hardening either. I wanted to be consistent, and .001 is the first one I tried. It works, so I stuck with it. I will point out though, that .002" can help hold a bullet in place when the load is compressed. There's no harm in trying different tensions.
Not hard but nice to see a pro doing it so I’m sure I’m not missing anything
Damm , so simple, Ii have watched 30 minute videos on this and was more confused after watching....
Don't you take case spring back into account when selecting the bushing? In other words, using a bushing that is sized to .293 doesn't result in a case mouth of the same dimension because the brass' natural tendency to spring back. That means that if you are shooing for .293, your bushing should be .295+/-, depending on the type/brand of case you are using in your reload as well as its age.
Kaneguy No. Order the bushing size according to the OD you want the sized neck to be. Occasionally, a bushing won’t match what it’s marked as, but generally they do. .293 = .293” OD.
I believe you have your numbers backwards. If the neck is annealed there is no spring-back.
Shouldn't you be measuring one or two thousands off a fired case not a new case
It doesn't matter if it's new or fired. The thickness of the brass won't change.
Whoa whoa whoa Stephen Hawking. Let’s dial these math skills back for the laymen. JK, thanks for the info.
As long as you use the same manufacturer case, If not , it makes no sense...