Miele Dishwasher F24 Error Beeps 18 seconds after cycle starts -Controller fault diagnostic repair
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- Опубліковано 27 лют 2022
- Miele DWs do this a lot in a damp environment when running on 23V AC+ particular in the UK as Her Majesty's high mains voltage causes problems. This is one of those 'Well it was working when I put in the shed for storage' situations.
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Fixing error F24 - Just disconnect the dishwasher power cord from the power point overnight and reconnect next day.
Start the dishwasher and Voilà :)
Worked for us 7-8 times.
Interesting. Worth a try but doesn't work in general.
Also pays to clean the wire connector ends too.
Great video, thank you.
Great tip! I find they are usually OK after unplugging and plugging back in. Most of the trouble I see on the Miele is due to leakage rather than bad connection. However I have seen a few with burned up edge connector due to badly crimped connections in the connector crimps.
Thanks for this as fixed my Miele G 5985 SCVi XXL. I'd replaced the relays (PB900002 = PB134012) as, although the operation and contact continuity tested OK, on inspection the contacts were pretty burned. The fault was still standing so I removed the control board and cleaned it with isopropyl alcohol, replaced it and now the dishwasher works perfectly. 🙂
Great job. Thanks for watching.
I like the madness lol :-D
The people that have no sense of humor i don't trust.
Part of being human is not taking yourself too serious.
I'm supprised that the array was not damaged or power leaked up the gate lines to the controller.
But what do i know, i'm just a chimp with a funny bone :-D
I'll second that - no point in being miserable.. I guess everyone is born with a sense of humor but life often beats it out of them.
Thanks great advise, it worked. mice in door made the problem.
That would do it. Was is squeaking? Thatns for watching. Please subscribe if you can.
@@razenby It was F 24 I tried to replace relays on the board but did not work so I now just ordered new relay board. Have done what you have in your video. may have to replace wires to main board from relay board to, will see. mice may have had wire for dinner or parts of.
Well shit that is almost exactly what my dental work looks like!
Only the dentist enjoys a nice slow root canal...
I'm glad you did leave the teeth in. I love your video style :-)
Good to know. I'm glad someone likes my dental trainer - most are freaked out by it.. Keep watching for more random appearances from the shelves. When I took it to the dentist and asked if I had any of these problems she though I was mad. She liked it though and wanted to buy some for the staff when I told here it was just £10 from Aliexpress.
We have a Miele G6588 SCVi XXL. After watching your video I ordered a relay however it took 3 weeks to arrive. Checking the machine before I replaced the relay (wishful thinking), the fault did not occur but it did after a couple of washes. Thinking about the condensation I stopped the auto open and (touch wood) it has been fault free. Thanks for the pointers.
Great job. The sensing circuit It is a real schoolboy design. Thanks for watching.
I have to ask but by sealing the chip in lacquer are you not disabling a safety feature? ie water ingress can now happen on the control board and not be detected.
hmm it is although I would say that Water ingress is unlikely whereas condensation in a kitchen or utility room is very likely. The problem with this circuit is the stupidly high impedance. On the HV tracks the electrostatic field causes a build of of extremely fine dust particles. It is a fine black dust that when sufficiently damp conductors across the connector fingers and tracking. It is a schoolboy design error perpetrated on the public by Miele. Certainly and close pin pitch device operated in this environment should be conformally coated.
You just about made my day with that video. Have a Miele machine with what looks like an almost identical controller. In my case the machine started crackling when the front door was opened for loading. Very strange.... Shut the door and the crackling stopped, opened the door and the crackling started again followed by that all too familiar smell of burning PCB, followed by a brief error code and death.
Opened the front up and found one of the push on connectors to the Controller had shorted across two contacts. I soldered the cables back on and put everything back together. Still dead.
The circuit board showed no sign of other damage so I am wondering if you might have some advice? New Controller perhaps?
Thanks again..
Charlie
You may have a frayed wire in the hinge area. Sometimes the insulation gives way. also the detergent tray actuator has a cintered metal bock heater and they sometimes start sparking and arcing. I cant really diagnose remotely. Check the power is getting to the controller. It is very rare that a Miele controller dies completely. Are you sure everything is plugged in properly?
Hi, I also have an f24 error. It looks like this: after starting, it works for 15 seconds, you can hear the relays click, then the pump turns off. This is repeated several times, at the end it gives an error. Model g1272scvi
See the other F24 error video on this channel. 15 seconds after program start the washer momentarily closes the heater relay and checks that the relay is working. Relay connections, relay faulty, relay or plug dirty or damp. Return mains sensing wires (thin ones) from relay no connected to control board. Etc.. everything is covered in the video
In the Miele technical manual you showed, it says to test the resistance on the wiring harness pins 12 & 22 that come off of ST5. Why didn't you do that? If that resistance is below 10M ohms wouldn't that tell you the wire harness is the problem, so you don't have to do all the work on the board?
I'm having the same F24 issue on the Futura Dimensions series (G5675). It is completing the first cycle (pre-wash), but failing at the beginning of the 2nd cycle exactly as you describe. My guess is it doesn't check the relay at the beginning of pre-wash, only at the beginning of main wash. If the issue is the harness, where does one get a new Milele harness, as it's not on their parts list?
The harness is repairable although I have only ever had to fit new spade terminals which you can do with a cheap kit. You can check the harness by buzzing out the wires. Is the Heater relay working? It is a flawed design., What right-minded person would design an unsealed high-impedance mains voltage sensing circuit open to the in a laundry??? Complete madness.
@@razenby Well I just removed the board to access the harness and it looks like the naming has changed. There is no more ST5. In G5675 it now goes from ST45 - ST75. Any idea which wires to test for resistance > 10M Ohms? On which ST block and which pins?
@@shreybhatia9038 I am not sure. You cant test the board at multimeter voltages for leakage - you need a high voltage insulation tester. Clean the board with spirit and inspect the connectors very closely and carefully. You may be able to cure it. Don't forget that a faulty heating element in the hot water heater can cause this problem.
@@shreybhatia9038 I have a G5705 SCU Futura Dimension. There was a wiring chart tucked behind the control panel. On mine the heater relay test lines (an adjacent black and white pair) are on ST33. They go direct from there to the heater pressure switch. When I had an F24 I replaced the heater relay even though the old one seemed ok - no change. Replacing the heater pressure switch fixed it, although from the wiring diagram it is unclear to me why. The service manual says "18 seconds after starting the drain sequence, the electronic will perform an operational test on the heater relay". I think if the unit doesn't run a drain on startup you will not get this error until it does drain.
Unfortunately I just had to replace the circulation pump because the shaft seal failed and they do not offer a pump casing replacement for this model pump.
Often MIele F24 error caused by little extra moisture inside pressure sensor. You can't measure it for sure. You can try to do some holes on the sides and dry with hot air. But better to replace pressure sensor after
It can be extra moisture anywhere in the mains wiring and the effect is cumulative. It is general damp and contamination that causes the problem. After the camel collapses from to much straw it is impossible to determine which one is the last straw that broke it's back. It is a stupid an unnecessary test. Let's face it who would perform a high-voltage high-impedance test on a product that operates in a damp environment with connections and devices open to a humid environment in a confined space.. I have seen persistent F24 errors due to the humidity caused by tenants boiling up food in the same room.
I’m getting the f24 error on my Miele. Replaced the relay (solid state relay so no contacts) and checked and cleaned the contacts on the circuit board. Circuit board itself looks clean. Still getting the f24 error. Any other suggestions?
How long after you press start does it display the F24 error?
@@razenby just timed it at 18 seconds.
@@mattcastelli150 Ok, that is when the heater relay wiring and relay test is executed. Either the relay isn't working or there is a controller fault. It is a test to ensure that the relay applies mains to the heater element. It indicates that the controller does not see mains signal disappear from the normally closed relay contacts (heater off) when the heater is energised. Check for damp or corrosion of and between the heater connections (leakage between connections) . Do you have the part number of the relay you have fitted and the DW model number?
Helpful tips. There was an ant who was burned up between two contacts ion mine. Apparently enough to mess up the controller sense voltage. A a little isopropyl alcohol, and good as new. A literal bug in the system. Saved me $900 for a new Bosch.
@@jnjafish Pesky ants...
So I have a fault F24 on my Miele futura dimension. I inspected the control board, it’s clean. I even replaced the heater relay as well as the heater pressure switch because it appeared to be newly leaking from that switch. Still getting the fault code, any ideas?
What did you clean it with? Clean the control board and bake in an oven at 50 degrees C for 30 minutes and try it again.
@@razenby I cleaned the board with isopropyl. It looks clean as a whistle. I read it could even by the heater
@@tac4bravo How long after you press the start button does it beep?
Also you need to bake the board,
@@razenby it’s about 17 seconds. On rinse and hold cycle it wont trigger the fault, and it will run, but I noticed it started leaking too, pretty significantly, so I replaced the heater pressure switch thinking that’s where the leak was coming from, not sure if that stopped the leak though. Will check
ONLY clear nail polish without color or any filling can be used as those particles might be conductive and you don't want to test it
Never seen a conductive nail polish. I'v tried it out of curiosity with a 2KV insulation tester and never seen it conduct. I cant rule it out completely but the risk is very low. Surface condensation is several orders of magnitude more conductive.
@@razenby Good to know. I think I had a trouble 15years ago or more, who knows what it was made off. I just never leave a chance to it now. Still clear polish looks more factory like, so I only recommend clear type, color filled would look a bit odd on the PCB