F24 fault code with Miele Dishwasher G2830
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- My attempts to fix an F24 (heater relay) error code with my Miele Dishwasher model G2830 SCi.
It is a detailed video and I didn’t fix my problem but it may help with yours.
CORRECTION: the tool is a T20 torx driver and not T24/T25 like I said in the video.
I’ll add a link to a future video when I have finally root caused the issue
UPDATE: see video where my issue is fixed: • Fixing F14 and F24 Fau...
And this video for confirming my pressure switch was faulty: • Confirming faulty Miel...
Four 1cm strips of a drinks bottle and a small electrical screw driver. Slip the screw drive in the cover where each relay cover tabs are there's a recess and slide one of the strips of plastic over the screwdriver. Do this for each of the tabs and the relay cover just slides off without any damage.
Nice. Thanks for the tip.
Make sure you watch this Roger video, my F24 was NOT the relay. ua-cam.com/video/V9FSfS0iPRw/v-deo.html
Hi Rich. Yes, my F24 was not the relay switch. I suspected it would be that part because it was testing correctly. In the description of this video, I added a link to where I show the pressure switch was root cause to my F24 problem.
Your solution is a bad main board
It turned out to be the pressure switch. I listed other videos in the description where I root caused it and took apart the pressure switch
@@rogerscubadiver lucky duck. I have 2 in shop right now with bad boards. Think I have another one tomorrow. Glad it worked. I've worked on these 29 yrs. HPS is the most popular part to give fault
@@michaelcollins1899 yeah. I was hoping it would not be the expensive board.
@@rogerscubadiver Just finished putting another hps on 15 Minutes ago lol
@@michaelcollins1899 have you figured out what goes bad in these boards? I wonder if it is a simple component that be changed. I had Samsung TV have its sound die after the warranty expired. I found a UA-cam video where someone root caused it to a transistor in the motherboard. Cost me all of $20 to fix it vs a new TV
When you turn the feet (at 7:45) with a pipe wrench you are mangling the height adjust mechanism. There are torx screws right there on the front to raise/lower the feet. Don't directly wrench the feet.
Len, the torx screw is for the feet that are in the back. The front feet don’t have such a mechanism and the manual instructs you to use a slotted screwdriver to adjust those. I found it easier to use the adjustable wrench. Maybe your dishwasher has torx screws for the front feet but mine don’t
Great video. Thanks. I tried the same thing and mine also still failed. Will have to find the video on the hps and try that.
Mark, look for the other video I linked in the description about the pressure switch being bad in my case. It may be a cause. I also provided videos on how to test it
And no, the drain should be tied high, not the intake lol
I just watched video 1 of your 2 part video. My G2830 shows the same error. This occurred 2 days after I replaced the door latch and I let the control panel dangle a bit. I don't know if this is related but as I continue to watch your video, I will let you know.
So it wasn’t giving the F24 code before you replaced the latch? It only happened being around the control board? It may be worth checking that the connectors to the board did not get loose. Though in my experience (as shown in the video where I was trying to get to the board), the connectors are really well seated and I believe they have a clip that prevents them from slipping out.
Is the error always showing up now or randomly?
It took me 3 tries to figure out my problem. Check out my other videos in my DIY playlist
@@rogerscubadiver Wow! Thanks for quick reply. Right! I check all the connectons on the control board. I even removed the PCB from its case and inspected it under a magnifying glass looking for burnt traces etc. Then I cleaned off all connections with Dexoxit. Still no go.
There is a video on you tube that discusses the control board and the F24 error "ua-cam.com/video/GmKTpZf1Ikc/v-deo.html&ab_channel=MagicSmoke". Now I have pulled the dishwasher out but having flipped it. Now I am ready to follow your excellent excellent video. Kind of hard to believe you are not a certified appliance repair person! Your video was so professional!
I will keep you updated.
Bill
Addendum: I found the problem!!!!!!!!!. I opened and inspected and multimeter tested the heater relay.
There are two contact points. Right and left. The left contact point was making contact. I bent the copper strip back toward the coil and it has enough tension in it to hold in place at the moment. I am going to re-install and order a new one. I am optimistic at moment.
@@williamkaye9029 wow. That is great. Did you measure the resistance on the heater relay contacts? In my video, I failed to do that. I only used the continuity function which is a good test to find fully open circuits but if it is a partially bad contact, the ohmmeter should have been the one to use to see if I get a fully open circuit or zero ohms
@@williamkaye9029 BTW, how did you remove the connectors from the PCB controller? I tried doing that and bent one of the holding clips too much. I was afraid to break the rest so I didn’t proceed to try to remove the rest of connectors. I opted to go change the pressure switch first, which turned out to be my problem
???
I’m still working on this project. I’m getting a new pressure switch tomorrow so I’ll know this weekend if I have the answer
UPDATE: see video where my issue is fixed: ua-cam.com/video/V9FSfS0iPRw/v-deo.html