First time miller here. Cut up and stacked for drying a maple from my neighbors. Didn't know anything about sealing the end grain. Lots of splits. Thanks for this. Hoping I can still get enough good wood for my wife's farm table build this winter. We'll see. Just got some bucked up sugar maple chunks that appear to have awesome grain in them, so will absolutely seal up the end grains asap on those so I can get them cut in various size small boards for shelves or drawer fronts, and other blanks.
Maple splits pretty bad if it dries fast. If you don't have anchor seal you can use old paint or dilute some wood glue with water and brush it on. I'm glad this information was helpful. I hope to see you on some of our other videos. Thanks for watching.
I know I'm late to the party, but if you look closely at the boards that are split the worst, they are very near or contain the pith of the tree. These will always split unless the pith is completely contained within a single board, and the thicker the better.
Very few have the time or take the time to seal each board after cutting(just my opinion) I have just started painting my Cant's with mis-matched paint from the box stores, I have a gallon of anchorseal but have not opened it yet, as expensive as it was ($50ish? gallon)I'm saving it til I have a better idea and use for whats been sawed, right now still learning my way and methods, and it's a hobby... mostly. Thanks for the video.
Great tips Mike! I had quite a few checks in the hemlock I milled with the Granberg. I'll pick up some end grain sealer for my next batch! My father always used it for his hardwood rounds he was keeping (long term storage) for wood turning, but I had never seen someone use it post-milling.
Some guys just put it on the log and dont use it after milling. I like to do both if I can, but at the very least paint the ends once its milled. That's when it dries the quickest.
Ever try one of those 4" foam rollers to just roll it on? Use a five gallon bucket with the mesh screen for a roller in it you can keep the whole thing in there put the lid on when not in use.
Walker Industries with multiple facilities in the USA and Canada have Aqua Seal at less than half the cost. 1 gallon, 5 gallon, 55 gallon, tanker car, cheaper the larger lot. I picked up 2 5 gallon buckets today. I formerly saw Associated Chemists in threads, now Walker Industries.
Good PSA! I've also gotten a bit lazy at times. Regretted it. My Anchorseal logs/lumber/slabs have shown me how "worth it" it really is. Keep up the good info! 👍🏽
@@practicallyIndependent Yes Sir. I bought the 5 gallon pail, a couple years ago. Still going strong... but I bought a mill. So, I'll be going through it a whole lot quicker. Totally worth the investment though. I should probably be writing this under my other account/ channel (Old Mountain Woodworking).
Oh great. I have some black walnut that was cut a week ago that has been sitting in the sun. These are just trees on our lawn that the electric company cut and I asked them to save the wood for me. I know nothing about wood except what I buy at the store to use on my scroll saw. I'm off to buy sealant. And a tarp? to cover them.
No need for a tarp. If you can somehow get the log lifted off the ground and sitting on some other logs or pallets that would help. Let us know if you have any more questions and thanks for following along. Please subscribe. Have a great day!
If you coat it well right after felling you would have no reason to paint the boards again after milling. Drying starts with the log... and it starts immediately. You are wasting time and effort by coating the individual boards.
First time miller here. Cut up and stacked for drying a maple from my neighbors. Didn't know anything about sealing the end grain. Lots of splits. Thanks for this. Hoping I can still get enough good wood for my wife's farm table build this winter. We'll see. Just got some bucked up sugar maple chunks that appear to have awesome grain in them, so will absolutely seal up the end grains asap on those so I can get them cut in various size small boards for shelves or drawer fronts, and other blanks.
Maple splits pretty bad if it dries fast. If you don't have anchor seal you can use old paint or dilute some wood glue with water and brush it on. I'm glad this information was helpful. I hope to see you on some of our other videos. Thanks for watching.
I know I'm late to the party, but if you look closely at the boards that are split the worst, they are very near or contain the pith of the tree. These will always split unless the pith is completely contained within a single board, and the thicker the better.
We used whatever paint was on sale in the miss-matched bins, seemed to work well.
Mike
Good point. I should have mentioned that. Thanks for the tip Mike!
Very few have the time or take the time to seal each board after cutting(just my opinion)
I have just started painting my Cant's with mis-matched paint from the box stores,
I have a gallon of anchorseal but have not opened it yet, as expensive as it was ($50ish? gallon)I'm saving it til I have a better idea and use for whats been sawed, right now still learning my way and methods, and it's a hobby... mostly.
Thanks for the video.
I agree. Sadly I haven't been able to saw much lately. I hope to get back to it again soon. Thanks for watching
Great tips Mike! I had quite a few checks in the hemlock I milled with the Granberg. I'll pick up some end grain sealer for my next batch!
My father always used it for his hardwood rounds he was keeping (long term storage) for wood turning, but I had never seen someone use it post-milling.
Some guys just put it on the log and dont use it after milling. I like to do both if I can, but at the very least paint the ends once its milled. That's when it dries the quickest.
Ever try one of those 4" foam rollers to just roll it on? Use a five gallon bucket with the mesh screen for a roller in it you can keep the whole thing in there put the lid on when not in use.
Not a bad idea. I may try that. Always looks to be more efficient. Thanks man!
Interesting topic . Didn't know that product existed.
I didnt either until I started running a sawmill. I've learned so much these past few years.
Thanks for the info. Exactly what I needed. 😁
Glad I could help! 👍
Walker Industries with multiple facilities in the USA and Canada have Aqua Seal at less than half the cost. 1 gallon, 5 gallon, 55 gallon, tanker car, cheaper the larger lot. I picked up 2 5 gallon buckets today. I formerly saw Associated Chemists in threads, now Walker Industries.
Thanks! Great to know. I will check it out. I am definitely happy to save a few dollars.
Label says it's for STONE. Works on wood, too?? Doesn't come off in the rain and moisture outdoors??
Good PSA! I've also gotten a bit lazy at times. Regretted it. My Anchorseal logs/lumber/slabs have shown me how "worth it" it really is. Keep up the good info! 👍🏽
Thanks my friend! So true. Sometimes you dont realize how much it helps until you stop doing it.
@@practicallyIndependent Yes Sir. I bought the 5 gallon pail, a couple years ago. Still going strong... but I bought a mill. So, I'll be going through it a whole lot quicker. Totally worth the investment though. I should probably be writing this under my other account/ channel (Old Mountain Woodworking).
Oh great. I have some black walnut that was cut a week ago that has been sitting in the sun. These are just trees on our lawn that the electric company cut and I asked them to save the wood for me. I know nothing about wood except what I buy at the store to use on my scroll saw. I'm off to buy sealant. And a tarp? to cover them.
No need for a tarp. If you can somehow get the log lifted off the ground and sitting on some other logs or pallets that would help. Let us know if you have any more questions and thanks for following along. Please subscribe. Have a great day!
Thanks so much! Totally helpful👌
Sure is. Im a lifelong painter. Hello!!😊🙏 Wicking ends are the culprit to wood rot.
So true! Dries and absorbs like a sponge and cracks when it moves. Have a great day!
I don’t use Anchorseal. I just use carpenters wood glue. Cheaper and seems to work better for me.
I agree. Funny thing nowadays I don't use anything, although I should.
What type exactly?
@@ThrivingCountry titebond original. As long as its PVA it is probably ok. I usually use 2 coats.
You should usw it right after the felling.
Thanks Dillon
Thanks! I hope to get back to my videos this spring. Running a sawmill in winter in New Hampshire is not pleasant.
Can I even paint the board. I have pear wood and it started to crack very hard all over the plow.
Tnx for the video!
Yes, paint would work as well. Anything to seal the open end grains
@@practicallyIndependent Thanks you for the answer.
Kind regards from Slovenia!
Is it worth using on boards that have already been dried?
Like on my fence posts and edge of boards?
It's for wood that is not yet dry. It keeps it from drying too fast
👍🏻
Can you put it on the log before it’s milled?
Absolutely. That's actually what I do now. At least I try to remember to do it, lol
Wouldn’t it be a lot easier to do the whole log end before you milled it? Just sayin’….
That's exactly what I do nowadays. I've learned a lot over the years and this is an older video.
If you coat it well right after felling you would have no reason to paint the boards again after milling. Drying starts with the log... and it starts immediately. You are wasting time and effort by coating the individual boards.
Good point. Thanks for the tip!