This was very helpful to me! I've been looking for options to seal fresh cut wood without breaking my wallet. Very educational and informative. Thank you for this video! Love it.
Hi Rick I've had pretty good luck with paraffin wax on end grain. My rough turned bowls I've only had one failure I coat the whole bowl with the glue before setting it aside to dry. The failure had a big knot in the side so I wasn't surprised. Mos of my bowls are 10 in. or smaller one box elder of 14 in.
Rick G Hi, Rick. Thanks for commenting. I haven't used wax, because it's too much trouble to melt. I would think that wax is about as good as it could possibly get though!
I really enjoyed you experiment. I found the information to be useful. You are the first person I have seen that has done this and now it leads me to more questions. Thanks!
Love the video, thanks for sharing. I've had great luck with Titebond III for logs I leave outside and Titebond Original for ones I leave indoors. Also nice b/c it doubles for use in any wood projects so it's always useful. Also, at least today, cheaper than the Elmers (the Original not type III). Thanks again!
Hi, What do you think of my idea of preventing cracks by alternating drying and steaming the wood? Steaming should give wood enough flexibility to stretch under its inner pressure and not split.
Hi, Oleg. I've never tried steaming. I have read of turners who speed up drying by boiling the roughed-out bowl. So perhaps steaming could have a similar beneficial effect.
You say that you left these in the sun, Have you tried to see what would happen if you left them outside but not letting the sun hit them? That might make a huge difference. I always heard to never dry wood in the direct sun. Newbie woodworker
RickTurns yes sun and wind will speed up drying i hear ...even heated indoors. so shaded with a medium airflow and no extreme temperatures outdoors is best. also depends on type of wood time of year how much water the tree has etc..... so much to learn! I'm just starting...
A good experiment, though as you point out it doesn't support any particular conclusion. So based on your data, my method is as good as any other. (My method being looking at a chunk of wood and hoping it doesn't crack too badly before I'm ready to use it.)
+RickTurns Can you use a Polyurethane to seal an entire piece of green wood to completely prevent drying or will the Polyurethane eventually give and allow the wood to warp?
I don't think I've ever used varnish. Just about anything will work for a short while....varnish is probably better than latex paint. Since I made this video, I've found a better sealer. Here's the link to the video: ua-cam.com/video/0ZFtDu_viI0/v-deo.html
Thanks RIck, I was wondering if it will work for many years though. I bring it up because I'm working with Manzanita which is extremely temperamental to dry and I'm wondering if sealing the entire finished piece of wood (not just the ends) will keep it from drying out and allow it to have a finished look.
The wood I showed in this video was stored outside, unsheltered, for at least three months (I don't remember exactly how long it was). My experience has been that 2-3 months is probably the maximum you want to leave it, even with the sealer on the end-grain. I will generally cut the logs as quickly as possible, then rough out the slabs within the next few months.
I think if you are using water base latex or glue, it should be cut with water to give it deeper penetration into the end grain. This gives me an idea to use type bond 1 cut with water as a sealer. better than buying sealer at $20 a qt. Thanks for the video.
Hi Rick, one result I think you missed, or I did, is the number of cracks each method had. It appears the Anchorseal only had one crack? Since it only had one crack and less inchs of cut I would suggest it was the clear winner. Thoughts? And thanks for the video. Cheers
Hi, Dwayne. You're right, I did not consider the number of cracks. I didn't think that was nearly as significant as the depth of the cracks. Since making that video, I have found another really good end-grain sealer....Kilz2. It's meant for covering up water stains on drywall, but so far, it is looking to be the best sealer I've used. It's not much cheaper than Anchorseal though.
I think the Kilz is definitely better than latex paint, but it's more expensive than left-over paint. I've only had the Kilz of some log pieces for a month now, so I can't say how much better it might be.
Great video and thanks!! I recently tried using Flex Seal Clear spray on. Have you ever tried Flex seal to seal end grain? So far it's working well and easy to apply. Time will tell but would value your thoughts. Thanks again.
+Rick Rabjohn Hi, Rick. I've never heard of that product, so I googled it. It seems kind of pricey, if you're doing more than one or two logs. It sounds like it would work quite well, though. I'm interested in hearing about the results you get on logs left for more than a few weeks.
Walker Industries with multiple facilities in the USA and Canada have Aqua Seal at less than half the cost of Anchor Seal. 1 gallon, 5 gallon, 55 gallon, tanker car, cheaper the larger lot. I picked up 2 5 gallon buckets today. I formerly saw Associated Chemists in threads, now Walker Industries, @t .
Hi, Lee. I've never tried that. I did rent a commercially-made video, which shows a woodturner who keeps a very large pot of paraffin melted all day long, and dips the end of logs and blanks in it, and he reported very good success with that method. For a mixture of oil and beeswax, seems like you'd need mostly oil to keep it in a brushable state, which might not then have enough wax to really seal the wood. Let me know if you try it out. Also, you might take a look at the Darbin Orvar channel (UA-cam). Lynn has a really good video on mixing oil and wax for various different uses.
If I recall correctly, Titebond 3 is significantly more expensive that regular Titebond. So, being economically minded (i.e., cheap), I didn’t test it. 😃
Oops. I thought you were making a joke! I suppose it would work with small cross-grain slices. I doubt it would work with a large log section though. Good luck with it.
Hi, Sam. Yes, I think it’s worth the trouble, and the cost isn’t much. Since I made this video, I’ve found a better end grain sealer- here’s a link to that video. Thanks for watching!
Hi, Mart. I believe I was using Elmer's glue at that time. It's most widely known as the glue used in grammar schools for crafts. I am now using Titebond. Any woodworking glue will work fine.
Hi Rick , Interesting experiment none the less , I have been using a glue that maybe similar to Elmers glue ? its a builders pva "Unibond" brand. As a beekeeper I have bees wax but as yet haven't used it as a sealer mainly due to the fact that I sell it in return for comb foundation , however I will be keeping some back this year and give that a try too Thanks for sharing All the best Bram
Brams shed Thanks for commenting, Bram. I haven't seen Unibond, but I suspect any glue would work. I haven't tried wax either, but I have seen a video where the woodturner keeps a pot of paraffin melted all day long, and seals every piece of wood he gets with it.
And good information. www.woodturningvideosplus.com/wax-emulsion.html has some really important details about moisture travel from the wood that could be helpful to people watching this. I am very new to the whole wood scene, and am doing my best to soak up knowledge; is there any noticeable difference in the depth of the checking? As far as I can tell, it will always be impossible to prevent all separation stresses between grain layers, but I wonder if it would affect the depth of the splits as well as the amount and length. One more question- regardless of checking; how did the sealers affect the amount of time it took for them to reach the "dry" stage?
timothy mcswain Hi, Timothy. Thanks for commentings. I haven't tried wax, but I have seen a video where the woodturner keeps a pot of paraffin melted all day long, and seals every piece of wood he gets with it. I'm sure that's quite effective. I'd try it, but it's a nuisance melting it down for the occasions when I get new wood.
Hi, great video this information is very helpful. I selad so green cherry spindle and bowl blanks. blue green specles developed. under the glue is this common what causes it thaks
I've never used paste wax myself, so I'd have to go with glue. I'm currently using Titebond, which doesn't cost much more than a gallon of Elmer's, and my local HomeDepot has it.
Too much waste. In Australia, seal the end grain until the bowl is roughed out. There is petroleum product called Mobil Cer but it is costly. I need something cheaper. Rough the bowl out so the walls are about 1/2" thick. Store in shady, well-ventilated place for a month. Very little splitting due to the thin walls drying evenly.
That's what I normally do, seal the end grain until I rough out the bowl. I use titebond glue as a sealer, two coats. It works better than anything I've tried. Here's a link to my video on that: ua-cam.com/video/0ZFtDu_viI0/v-deo.html Thanks for watching and commenting, Kent.
Well done experiment! It is nice to see someone do something scientific and statistical for a change!
Ian Moore Thank you, Ian!
This was very helpful to me! I've been looking for options to seal fresh cut wood without breaking my wallet. Very educational and informative. Thank you for this video! Love it.
Thanks for watching, Driz.
Hi Rick I've had pretty good luck with paraffin wax on end grain. My rough turned bowls I've only had one failure I coat the whole bowl with the glue before setting it aside to dry. The failure had a big knot in the side so I wasn't surprised. Mos of my bowls are 10 in. or smaller one box elder of 14 in.
Rick G Hi, Rick. Thanks for commenting. I haven't used wax, because it's too much trouble to melt. I would think that wax is about as good as it could possibly get though!
I really enjoyed you experiment. I found the information to be useful. You are the first person I have seen that has done this and now it leads me to more questions. Thanks!
Thank you, Marvin.
Love the video, thanks for sharing. I've had great luck with Titebond III for logs I leave outside and Titebond Original for ones I leave indoors. Also nice b/c it doubles for use in any wood projects so it's always useful. Also, at least today, cheaper than the Elmers (the Original not type III). Thanks again!
Thanks for watching and commenting, Ryan.
Great video! Thanks for sharing.
Nice method very scientific with common sence great job
Thank you, Rafael.
Hi, What do you think of my idea of preventing cracks by alternating drying and steaming the wood? Steaming should give wood enough flexibility to stretch under its inner pressure and not split.
Hi, Oleg. I've never tried steaming. I have read of turners who speed up drying by boiling the roughed-out bowl. So perhaps steaming could have a similar beneficial effect.
You say that you left these in the sun, Have you tried to see what would happen if you left them outside but not letting the sun hit them? That might make a huge difference. I always heard to never dry wood in the direct sun. Newbie woodworker
I did not try that. Sounds like a good idea to keep them out of the sun. Currently, I keep my cut logs inside my workshop.
RickTurns yes sun and wind will speed up drying i hear ...even heated indoors. so shaded with a medium airflow and no extreme temperatures outdoors is best. also depends on type of wood time of year how much water the tree has etc..... so much to learn! I'm just starting...
A good experiment, though as you point out it doesn't support any particular conclusion. So based on your data, my method is as good as any other. (My method being looking at a chunk of wood and hoping it doesn't crack too badly before I'm ready to use it.)
Sounds like a valid method to me!
+RickTurns Can you use a Polyurethane to seal an entire piece of green wood to completely prevent drying or will the Polyurethane eventually give and allow the wood to warp?
I don't think I've ever used varnish. Just about anything will work for a short while....varnish is probably better than latex paint. Since I made this video, I've found a better sealer. Here's the link to the video: ua-cam.com/video/0ZFtDu_viI0/v-deo.html
Thanks RIck, I was wondering if it will work for many years though. I bring it up because I'm working with Manzanita which is extremely temperamental to dry and I'm wondering if sealing the entire finished piece of wood (not just the ends) will keep it from drying out and allow it to have a finished look.
Will it hold up is storing wood outside? I have a shed to air dry in a strong storm the wood might get some water.
The wood I showed in this video was stored outside, unsheltered, for at least three months (I don't remember exactly how long it was). My experience has been that 2-3 months is probably the maximum you want to leave it, even with the sealer on the end-grain. I will generally cut the logs as quickly as possible, then rough out the slabs within the next few months.
I think if you are using water base latex or glue, it should be cut with water to give it deeper penetration into the end grain. This gives me an idea to use type bond 1 cut with water as a sealer. better than buying sealer at $20 a qt. Thanks for the video.
I haven’t tried diluting it first, but you’re right, that does sound like it might work better. Thanks for the suggestion.
Hi Rick, one result I think you missed, or I did, is the number of cracks each method had. It appears the Anchorseal only had one crack? Since it only had one crack and less inchs of cut I would suggest it was the clear winner. Thoughts? And thanks for the video. Cheers
Hi, Dwayne. You're right, I did not consider the number of cracks. I didn't think that was nearly as significant as the depth of the cracks. Since making that video, I have found another really good end-grain sealer....Kilz2. It's meant for covering up water stains on drywall, but so far, it is looking to be the best sealer I've used. It's not much cheaper than Anchorseal though.
Thanks for your response Rick. Can I assume you recommend the Kilz oil base over the water base or it doesn't matter? Cheers
I think the Kilz is definitely better than latex paint, but it's more expensive than left-over paint. I've only had the Kilz of some log pieces for a month now, so I can't say how much better it might be.
Sorry Rick, I wasn't clear. Kilz sells an oil base product and a water base product, which is better?
I didn't know there were two versions...I'm pretty sure I'm using the water-based flavor.
Thank you for the video,I use titebond 2 it seals well ,it's cheap and it's stronger then wood:) as you also know .it's good stuff man
Thanks for watching my video, Random.
No probblamo good day
Great video and thanks!! I recently tried using Flex Seal Clear spray on. Have you ever tried Flex seal to seal end grain? So far it's working well and easy to apply. Time will tell but would value your thoughts. Thanks again.
+Rick Rabjohn Hi, Rick. I've never heard of that product, so I googled it. It seems kind of pricey, if you're doing more than one or two logs. It sounds like it would work quite well, though. I'm interested in hearing about the results you get on logs left for more than a few weeks.
Would boring the piff out of a short log blank work to stop it splitting?
Probably not - I think I tried that once, and it didn’t have much affect on splitting. Thanks for watching, Nick.
Walker Industries with multiple facilities in the USA and Canada have Aqua Seal at less than half the cost of Anchor Seal. 1 gallon, 5 gallon, 55 gallon, tanker car, cheaper the larger lot. I picked up 2 5 gallon buckets today. I formerly saw Associated Chemists in threads, now Walker Industries, @t .
Thanks for the tip, Stan. I can't say I've heard of Aqua Seal, but I'll take a look around.
I've heard of people using Mineral Oil and Bees Wax, what are your thoughts about that??
Hi, Lee. I've never tried that. I did rent a commercially-made video, which shows a woodturner who keeps a very large pot of paraffin melted all day long, and dips the end of logs and blanks in it, and he reported very good success with that method. For a mixture of oil and beeswax, seems like you'd need mostly oil to keep it in a brushable state, which might not then have enough wax to really seal the wood. Let me know if you try it out.
Also, you might take a look at the Darbin Orvar channel (UA-cam). Lynn has a really good video on mixing oil and wax for various different uses.
I wonder if Titebond 3 would seal better.
If I recall correctly, Titebond 3 is significantly more expensive that regular Titebond. So, being economically minded (i.e., cheap), I didn’t test it. 😃
I learned something today.
Thank you.
Thanks for watching, Gene.
Can you use the glue for help drying cookies so they dont split or crack bad?
Yes, but mix it into the batter, instead of painting it on after they're cooked.
RickTurns lmao not those type cookies. I meant like wood cookies or slices.
Oops. I thought you were making a joke! I suppose it would work with small cross-grain slices. I doubt it would work with a large log section though. Good luck with it.
OK now? IS it worth the trouble and cost ?
Hi, Sam. Yes, I think it’s worth the trouble, and the cost isn’t much. Since I made this video, I’ve found a better end grain sealer- here’s a link to that video. Thanks for watching!
What kind of glue is that, i'v not seen that make in the UK, Thank you
Hi, Mart. I believe I was using Elmer's glue at that time. It's most widely known as the glue used in grammar schools for crafts. I am now using Titebond. Any woodworking glue will work fine.
Thank you
Use a lil bit of unibond alright geezer
Hi Rick , Interesting experiment none the less , I have been using a glue that maybe
similar to Elmers glue ? its a builders pva "Unibond" brand. As a beekeeper I have bees wax but as yet haven't used it as a sealer mainly due to the fact that I sell it in return for comb foundation , however I will be keeping some back this year and give that a try too Thanks for sharing
All the best Bram
Brams shed Thanks for commenting, Bram. I haven't seen Unibond, but I suspect any glue would work. I haven't tried wax either, but I have seen a video where the woodturner keeps a pot of paraffin melted all day long, and seals every piece of wood he gets with it.
So for the Brits watching this... it seems that latex paint (US) is the same as vinyl emulsion (UK) and Elmers glue (US) is basically a PVA glue.
Okay, I didn't know that about latex paint. Thanks much for watching, Grasshopper.
Phenomenal intro!
And good information.
www.woodturningvideosplus.com/wax-emulsion.html has some really important details about moisture travel from the wood that could be helpful to people watching this.
I am very new to the whole wood scene, and am doing my best to soak up knowledge; is there any noticeable difference in the depth of the checking? As far as I can tell, it will always be impossible to prevent all separation stresses between grain layers, but I wonder if it would affect the depth of the splits as well as the amount and length.
One more question- regardless of checking; how did the sealers affect the amount of time it took for them to reach the "dry" stage?
Thank you!
Well done sir, I will try the glue for sure
Hi, Greg. I’ve got an update on the glue sealer...here’s a link to my video on using Titebond glue: ua-cam.com/video/0ZFtDu_viI0/v-deo.html
For those of you not in the USA Elmer's glue in this case is PVA.
I’ve switched to Titebondglue now! ua-cam.com/video/0ZFtDu_viI0/v-deo.html
Would pva work?
I originally used Elmer’s glue, which I believe is pvc. It worked, but not as well as the Titebond.
@@RickTurnsWoodturning thanks I youse PVA 4 thick coats looks promising
Have u ever tried wax?
timothy mcswain Hi, Timothy. Thanks for commentings. I haven't tried wax, but I have seen a video where the
woodturner keeps a pot of paraffin melted all day long, and seals every piece of wood he gets with it. I'm sure that's quite effective. I'd try it, but it's a nuisance melting it down for the occasions when I get new wood.
Hi, great video this information is very helpful. I selad so green cherry spindle and bowl blanks. blue green specles developed. under the glue is this common what causes it thaks
Good job
Thank you!
paste wax is the best end sealer
Thanks for the tip! I never thought about using paste wax.
Bob Healey Can it be used on freshly cut eucalyptus or what would you suggest?
I've never used paste wax myself, so I'd have to go with glue. I'm currently using Titebond, which doesn't cost much more than a gallon of Elmer's, and my local HomeDepot has it.
Thanks helpful
Thanks for watching, Cris.
not a good test . titebond glue is the best
Titebond is what I use now. See this video:
ua-cam.com/video/0ZFtDu_viI0/v-deo.html
Too much waste. In Australia, seal the end grain until the bowl is roughed out. There is petroleum product called Mobil Cer but it is costly. I need something cheaper. Rough the bowl out so the walls are about 1/2" thick. Store in shady, well-ventilated place for a month. Very little splitting due to the thin walls drying evenly.
That's what I normally do, seal the end grain until I rough out the bowl. I use titebond glue as a sealer, two coats. It works better than anything I've tried. Here's a link to my video on that: ua-cam.com/video/0ZFtDu_viI0/v-deo.html
Thanks for watching and commenting, Kent.