Best end grain sealer I've found so far
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- Опубліковано 25 лип 2024
- I've used various end grain sealers during my years in woodturning. Recently, I started using Titebond woodworkers' glue for sealing logs, and it is the best thing I've used yet for sealing wood.
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Thank you Rick, was looking for something to use and low and behold your video. Thanks for that. Have a nice day.
Thanks for watching and commenting, Peter.
Thank you so much. I never would have thought glue would be the best end grain sealer.
Thanks for watching, Tjandra.
Good idea Rick. I never thought of using wood glue as a sealer. I'm going to have to try it now. Thanks!
Thanks for commenting, Bob.
Just had 2-32”x20 ft oak logs sliced into 2” thick slabs that I want to dry stack and you just gave me the answer on edge sealer, thank you.
Thanks for watching!
I agree, I've been sealing end grain on very expensive woods and somehow on my own ended up using that. No odor, no running, cost effective, easy to apply, water clean-up, no wax to contaminate finishes, it's perfect.
And you can also use it to glue wood together! Thanks for watching, zz.
Wow...love how practical this video is.
Thanks for watching, Raahul.
Hi Rick perfect just what I needed to know thank you
Regards
Steve UK London
I just had an oak tree come down during Zeta and was looking for wood sealer. I google wood sealer and your UA-cam video was one of suggestions. Thanks for inform, no chemicals to worry about.
Thanks for watching my videos, George.
Great idea thank you I will be trying that out.
Thanks, Robert.
Those “Senior Moments” drive me nuts too. 👍👍
For sure!
Wow, thanks for this informative video. Just picked up two mahogany logs about 3 ft in diameter and need something quick to seal them tonight so I can put them away in storage for when I finally decide to use them
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for sharing... I do have Titebond... I had been using melted wax lately... But I haven't used it long enough to give any concrete report... Thanks again for sharing...
I saw a video from one woodturner who always kept a large pot of melted paraffin in his workshop to treat the ends of logs (he got a lot of fresh logs from local tree removal services). But I only get green wood occasionally, so it’s too much trouble to melt the wax. Thanks for watching, Travis.
Great tip! Thank you for sharing
Thanks, SP!
I love your shirt! Thanks for the tutorial as well
Thank you, Kevin.
Thanks Rick! I just rescued some Manitoba Maple and some black walnut this weekend. It's all huge pieces about 2.5ft in diameter. Still need to cut out the pith, but I'll definitely be buying some titebond to seal it! -Spiritwynd aka Heather
Tote one works great! Thanks for watching, Spiritwynd (I love that name).
Great tip!! thanks I just picked up (2) oak cookies and will try this weekend.
Hope it works for you as well as it has for me!
Great tip Rick, I've been using PVA glue for a number of years, and it does a good job too. Informative video my friend.
Take care
Mike
Thanks, Mike!
I think elmer glue is PVA. PVA has a very unique vinegar-alcohol like smell.
@@dekurvajo for those who may wonder - Elmer's glue is a brand and has many different glue products, not all are PVA. School glue, washable glue, etc - white glue is pva.
i guess it is quite randomly asking but do anybody know of a good place to stream newly released tv shows online ?
I had wood floor start to get punky on me from the office desk rolling chair so I used outdoor waterproof wood glue - my idea was to use it to have the wood absorb the glue and strengthen the wood and produce a hard surface for the rolling chair and it worked out great!
Good idea! Thanks for the tip, Marvel.
thank you for the information and the video upload sir!
Thanks for watching, NW.
Thank you. I used to glue the corners of a Bee Hive... and just noticed that after a few months how the area under the glue has kept its original color and character. I used the Titebond BLue Container which is an outdoor moisture-resistant glue. but after seeing the results I have been thinking of thinning it and using it as an exterior coating for the whole box.
Sounds like it would work well!
Great, thanks for sharing. Take care.
Thanks for watching, Quinn.
Thanks for the info Rick. I had a piece of Mimosa that I didn't seal and in three months it turned into kindling at best. I have some cherry and walnut logs that I don't want the same to happen to. Since I can't find any Anchorseal locally and already have some Titebond on hand, I will give it a try. Thanks again, Dave.
I’m sure it will work for you, Dave. I think it woks a lot better than Anchorseal, which I stopped using years ago.
Great advice, been using it from beginning, works great.....
Thanks for watching. Tomislav.
wow thanks what a cool idea i use it all the time now rick you are the best
Thanks so much, Al.
Thanks for the tip!
Thanks for watching, Matthew.
I knew I forgot to do something, got a chunk of a trunk that now cracked up. And I have a gallon of wood glue just sitting right next to it. Damn. Thanks for the tip going forward
Hi Rick, I’m giving it a go right now on some cherry my dad got me from
a local tree feller, regards
Terry in the UK
Cherry is a great wood for turning. Thanks for watching, Terry.
THANK YOU SIR THIS WAS EXCELLENT IDEA THANK AGAIN
Thanks for watching, Jose.
Awesome. Thank you!!
Thanks for watching, Scott.
Great info, thank you!
Thanks for watching, Brendan.
Great advice !
Thanks for watching, Ariel.
Your t-shirts are fantastic!
Thank you, Sean. I had some of them printed with those slogans.
@@RickTurnsWoodturning Hi Rick, I am from Scotland and have just started turning at the age of 44. I find your videos entertaining and hugely informative. Please keep making them, they inspire me to get turning. You are a true gentleman. Thanks.
Yeah I did try it on mines and man it works like wonders
Thanks for watching and commenting!
thank you for the heads up
Thanks for watching, Walter.
Thanks for sharing.
I'm sorry for the long delay in replying. YT routed your comment to the spam folder, which I don't check very often. Thanks for watching, Leigh.
Thank your for this upload, saved me some money :p
Good to hear! Thanks for watching.
Thank you for tips
Thanks, Tomas.
Thanks Rick, The only place I found that carried Anchorseal was Woodcraft. And knowing that, they price it at a little over $30/gal. At roughly half that price, I'll switch over to Titebond. Great money saver buddy! AND lots of stores carry it as well.
Thanks, Charlie.
Good idea. I use wood glue as a finish sometimes , it’s great.
Thanks for commenting, Tom.
yes me too. I also use wood glue (pva) on plywood edges to stop chipping, cracking. There is one thing you might have to be careful with. its not 100% waterproof. Sometimes the transparent coat turns to milky when its get wet. But then its again turns back transparent when its dry. I wont use it for things where quality is highly required. although if you put wax on it this kind of decolorisation will never happens.
What is wrong with using the right thing to finish wood ?
Thanks for the video I've been looking for something better to try on the end of logs before I sawmill them I have a beautiful white oak log that I want a quarter saw and I don't want the boards cracking and checking.
I have been using Tight Bond to seal logs when I make lumber for a few years now and it works great except it does dull steel plainer blades when it is on the face of the board.
I didn’t realize the coating was that tough. Thanks for the information, Jason.
Thank you Rick
Thanks for commenting, Scott.
Good tip. I'll give it a shot.
I hope it works as well for you as it does for me. Thanks for watching, Tom.
Thank you Rick.
Thanks for watching, Ryder.
Rick, I have been buying Anchorseal by the gallon at the GA regional symposiums from Big Monk Lumber since I started going almost 10 years ago. He buys it in the 55 gal barrel and breaks it down into gal jugs for $12! Great buy, great vendor. Good to know PVA glue will work in a pinch.
Now that's a good price!
I tried titebond on one end of bowl blank and anchorseal on other. So far glue has no checks!
Thank you rick I'm in North Carolina
Thanks for watching, Todd
Ty for this tip. I have made a few mixtures trying to keep my logs check free. I even tried melting the wax on but the seal seems to let go after some time.
I did use melted wax for a while, but I’ve found that the Titebond glue works better. It works best if you can keep the sealed logs out of the weather.
for the last 40 minutes I have been reading on forums what sealer to use and there is no consensus. paraffin, anchorseal, paraffin/mineral spirits, roofing paint, glue...each person says one of these is junk and only buy anchorseal. Well, proof is in the doing and your experiment helped me in my decision. I will be using titebond from now on. I use it in my shop already and so don't have to buy something else. Thanks for this vid.
Thanks for watching!
Exactly, use something that has a dual purpose, especially since it works, i to have been reading these forums and live 40 mins from the Woodsmith store but 3 mins from Ace I’ll go for the glue and save my time to cut blanks
I used this technique because I ran out of the ronseal end-grain sealer. Farmer next door gave me a whole sycamore tree branches and all, and I spent a good 12 hours making blanks and then ran out of sealer. All I could find was a big bottle of old PVA kids glue left over from my mum entertaining the grand kids. Used both exactly the same results yet the kids PVA was 25% of the cost of the sealer.. lol
In my case, the glue is less than half the cost of anchorseal. And I can also use it as wood glue. Thanks for watching.
Thank you so much for this video Rick!!
I've been searching all day for a solution to a problem I'm having with MDF edges that I made for lamp bases. I've been using Polyshade on hardwood bases that I had been using before, but my neighbor suggested MDF. This was my 1st time using MDF and I did not know that the edges with turn out as bad as they did, and the only solution was to seal them somehow.
I literally just got back from Ace Hardware and bought that Tightbond and did a few sample pieces of the MDF to see how it would come out and I'm waiting for it to dry lol. I did one side with just glue and then the other side with a little bit of water and glue, so I'm going to see which one turns out the best. Then of course, I stumble upon your video after the fact and I'm so glad I did. I'm really hoping that this method will solve the problem and make those edges nice and smooth so the base looks good.
Thank you again for posting this!! Joe
I’ll be interested in knowing how that turns out for you. My experience with MDF is that if it gets wet, it swells. My use of Titebond is to seal the endgrain of logs to slow moisture loss. I hope it works for you!
@@RickTurnsWoodturning Thanks for responding Rick.
I was really hoping you were going to say "oh yeah it'll work out great!!" lol 😆😆😆 I figured you had dealt with it before.
I put 2 applications of each method and I put polyshade on it, so we'll see how it turns out after dries.
I'll keep you in the loop.
Thanks again.
Try washing up liquid. It works well too, particularly on green turned bowls which you can finish when they dry. The bowls get out of shape but rarely crack.
I would never have thought of using dishwashing liquid. Thanks for the information, John.
thanks for the tip
Thanks for watching, Righteous.
A great way to dry the wood!
Thank you, Aleksey.
They do make Famo Wood filler for the cracks in wood. And it works really well
Famowood is a wood filler, isn't it? I don't think I've ever used it. I see Amazon has a Famowood glaze epoxy kit. It looks like Famowood would be a good bit more expensive than Titebond wood glue. Thanks for the suggestion, Sam.
Great tip and easy to follow video, thanks :) I have a large, dried stump of spelted beech I want to make into an outdoor coffee table (I live in Scotland so needs to be able to put up with the rain....) after sanding do you think I could use titebond as a sealant/varnish?
Titebond 3 is waterproof, but regular Titebond is not. I’d go with a marine spar varnish. Thanks for watching, Jenny.
Great !!!!
Hi Rick awesome video thanks for posting I have a question this winter I let just about a whole gallon of Titebond 3 in the building and I'm sure most likely froze scared to use it on projects do you think it would work for this
Hi, Todd...must be cold where you live! The manufacturer of Titebond says it can be frozen and thawed as many as five times and still be useable.
I was wondering how modge pod might work. I was going to use my modge podge nit I also have titebond and love your results. Thanks for sharing the video Rick!
Mod Podge never occurred to me. It’s mainly a lacquer, isn’t it? So it would probably work well. Thanks for watching, Delia.
Mod podge is glue and water.
Thanks buddy
Thanks for watching, James.
Most any product that has a adhesive effect will work, but, if you apply your favorite sealer then cover it with Saran wrap it will do a wonderful job.
I never thought of using plastic wrap. Thanks for the tip, Ray.
I have only used candlewax and latex paint. I think both work well.
Hi, Willem. I have used latex also, but didn't really like it. The colors I had on hand just didn't seem to accessorize well with my workshop. Wax I haven't used because it just seemed too much trouble to melt and apply. Do you just rub a block on solid wax against the end grain?
I melt the wax. Smaller pieces get dipped, bigger pieces of wood, i use an old paintbrush
Thanks!!!!
Thanks for watching, David.
I will be trying this! I cant afford $70 pentacryl for wood cookies! Ty!!!
It works great. Thanks for watching!
Right!
Thanks Rick
Thanks for watching, Matt.
Can this be used to seal the end grain of pressure treated pine deck boards and framework?
I’m sure it could. I haven’t tried that, but there is no reason it wouldn’t work.
Is this still your preferred method?
Thanks for all the great videos. I have learned a lot.
yes, it’s definitely my preferred method. I’ve had logs last for over a year without splitting with two coats of Titebond.
Enjoyed the video, it was helpful. I was wondering if the glue can be left on and sanded smooth or is this just to Preserve the wood untill you are ready to work on it? Haven't done alot of wood working but I have a oak tree that I'm going to be cutting up for fire, the bottom 4 feet is hollow and thought I'd try to make a small table out of a piece that is maybe 3" thick. Just wondering how I would make it last and not crack. Keep up the good work.
The hollow part is probably dried out already, and since it doesn’t include the pith, it probably won’t split. For the solid pieces, I’d put on two coats of glue. Don’t sand it or try to remove it in any way. You want a very solid coating on the end grain. I have a large walnut piece still in the whole log, with two coats of Titebond, and it hasn’t split in two years.
@@RickTurnsWoodturning Thanks I'll give it a try.
You guys, will this waterproof wood for exterior use? I'm making one of those garden paths with freshly cut cookies (downed wood from the last hurricane) and need to protect and waterproof them.
I’m not sure how well it would do under long-term exposure to weather. Thanks for watching, Catsin.
Thanks for the suggestion. I tried it, but I have to say it doesn't work nearly as good as ANCHORSEAL does.
I used anchorseal some years back, and didn’t find it all that effective. And it is expensive. Thanks for watching , Alvaro.
Looking to seal a bunch of freshly cut oak logs to use as simple outdoor stools. Not looking for anything super durable or a hi tech. Just want to make sure there is a clean surface to put my butt on. Also don’t have time to dry them for 6 months. So for the exterior use, would you recommend tight bond III which is supposedly waterproof? Thx
Yes, for outdoor use, sounds like Titebond III would be a better idea. I’ve never made anything for outdoor use, but I have sealed logs with Titebond and left them outside for nearly a year with almost no splitting. So a waterproof version of Titebond would probably be even better, I would suggest two coats.
Would there be any benefit to watering the glue down - would it penetrate further?
Michael from Canada
I haven’t tried that, but I’m a little dubious. You need an air-impenetrable barrier on the end grain, I think. I’ve gotten such good results with the glue straight out of the bottle, that I haven’t tried anything else. Now that I think about it though, a friend told me he was using Titebond diluted 1-1 with water, and it was working quite well. Still, diluting it is too much trouble for me! Thanks for watching, Michael.
Hello, I am having a maple tree cut down to use mostly for bowl blanks. I bought a gallon of latex paint to seal the end grains but titebond seems to be a better option. Have you used latex paint to seal wood? Which one do you think will seal it better? I am new to wood turning.
I have used latex paint, but found it to be a poor sealant. Titebond glue is not particularly expensive and does an excellent job. I’ve also tried Elmer’s glue, which did okay, and I’ve used Anchorseal, which did not do as well as Titebond. Good luck with your maple - it makes beautiful bowls.
I have been using Anchorseal original (not Anchorseal 2) for several years with good results, and I purchased it directly from the manufacturer in a 5 gallon container (too much product!). Running out now and will try the Titebond. I see you are using Titebond regular, any thoughts on Titebond 3 as it is "waterproof"?
I haven't tried Titebond 3. Actually, I didn't even know it existed. So I just looked it up on Amazon. It's $28\gal. Given that, I'll stick with the less expensive version. It works great!
After trying a few different sealers, waxes, etc over the years with mediocre results I thought why not wood glue and have been using that for a quite a while now. I put on a few coats of titebond 3 mixed w/water(2 or 3 parts glue to 1 part water) to help it penetrate the wood better and find it to work even better than original titebond probably due its exterior rating. Alot of my lumber gets stickered and stacked outside in covered piles until it reaches a certain MC% before bringing it in my shop and the titebond 3 really does a superb job.
Thanks for the information, John.
Hi Rick, I have a question. I have some black walnut wood slices about 1½" thick and 14" around. I want to seal them to prevent cracking. I'm thinking of trying the titebond. Do you think that would work and would I coat one side or both?
I would put two coats of Titebond on each side. That might work, but with a whole log section, it’s iffy. I had a log section of walnut about two inches thick that I made a clock of. After a couple of weeks, even though it had multiple coats of varnish, it developed a split radiating from the center, about a half inch at the outer edge. But after a couple of months, it pulled back together, and you can’t tell there was ever a split there. That really surprised me!
Thank you for responding! I really appreciate it!
What can be used to thin tightbond? I'm looking for exterior uv resistant rot resistant sealer for my redwood pergola.
Water.
Very nice information. Have you try to polish the wood after the glue is very dry to se how it looks?
No indeed! That glue blocks any finish. Since I’m only putting it on the chainsawn end grain of a log, the glue-covered wood gets turned away as I rough out the bowl.
I have some white pine 8X10 roof timbers that have ends exposed to the outside. They are stained with a water based semi transparent stain. Can I use this glue to seal the ends to prevent water penetration?
If they are stored outside, you should probably use Titebond 3, which is waterproof. The stain that’s already there shouldn’t have any affect. If the timber’s are built into a building, the glue will still seal them, but I’m not sure how long it would last.
I cut down a black walnut about 2 months ago, it's been sitting outside and starting to crack at the ends. is it too late to cut the ends off to end seal them?
I think your best bet is to cut off the split ends and then cut the logs lengthwise, removing the pith at the center, then sealing the end of the log halves. And then storing out of the weather, preferably indoors. That’s the best to save the wood from splitting. That’s what I usually do, although I’ve found a few wood species seem to resist splitting even in the whole log (with the sealer on, of course). I’ve had some sycamore and ash logs in my workshop for 6-8 months now and they’re showing no signs of splitting. On the other hand, I’ve got some maple logs that were cut down about a month ago, and they are starting to split, in spite of two coats of glue sealer - so I’ve got to chainsaw it into blanks as soon as I can.
Great information especially considering the price of some of the end grain products. Do you think there's any reason to seal wood that's been kiln dried.
No, kiln dried wood is already out of danger. It’s also usually thin enough (1 or 2 inches) so that it’s not under much stress from humidity changes.
@@RickTurnsWoodturning Kind of figured, just making sure. Sure do appreciate the feedback.
How long will you leave the big log till you use it? and how will you store it? thanks :)
I've found it's better to cut it in half lengthwise before putting it aside. I'd suggest storing in your workshop if you room, rather than outside. It's also better to rough turn it as soon as you can, leaving the sides and bottom at a thickness of about 10% of the diameter.
Do you know if the glue would interfere with the epoxy curing properly? Can I put polyurethane over it on a cedar piece? Thank you for the video, I love that glue, just never thought to use it to seal anything.
Hi, Susan. The glue will sit on top of the wood - it doesn’t penetrate very far at all, and when you turn the wood, all that surface wood is going to be removed. So the glue won’t interfere with any kind of finish. I’ve used polyurethane, lacquer, oil, and shellac over wood I’ve sealed with glue. Thanks for watching my video!
@@RickTurnsWoodturning thank you so much. 😊
How well would this work for sealing red pine logs that are going to sit out and dry for a year? I am building a log cabin in the future
Probably not all that great. Use Titebond 3 (waterproof) if you're storing them outside. That might work.
Great video Rick, there is a big "taboo" about products to do this type of work and i think you nailed it right! The only question I have is, do you think a log will loose moisture by its sides when the bark is still present? I was watching a video yesterday of a guy milling a 3 years old log, he was trying to make the point , a log will not loose moisture or humidity UNTIL it is milled (the log was still with 44% humidity content)...would love to hear your comments!
Sorry for the long delay in answering your question, Francisco - I thought I had answered some days back, but it’s still in my unanswered queue. My experience is that the sides of the log do not need to be sealed. I always seal the ends of logs, of course. Usually that works well, but I don’t let the sealed logs rest to long before I cut them up into slabs, and at that point, I seal the ends again.
I am milling logs that have been cut down for 3 years and they are sopping wet on the inside.
Don't believe a word that these guys say that do this EVERYDAY, they don't know and are just feeding you lies.
Great! Just cut down a 3' thick pecan tree x 60'. Is it best to put on ASAP?
Yes indeed. As soon as possible. If you can, store it out of the weather.
About how long would you wait for a log the size of walnut log in the video to dry before turning?
That would take a long, long time. The rule of thumb is one year per inch of diameter. The main purpose of end-grain sealer is to keep the wood from splitting for a relatively short period until the wood can be rough-turned. After rough-turning, the item will dry much faster, with less risk of splitting.
Спасибо
Спасибо за просмотр (перевод Google Translate, надеюсь, это имеет смысл), Dmitri.
)
I have been trying to find a way to seal the edges of a project I am working on and it looks like I have found the answer. My project will be painted as it is a concession trailer. Will paint stick to this? Thanks.
Paint does fairly well as an end-grain sealer...a lot of people use latex paint, but I’m guessing that an oil-base paint would be better.
Thanks for the quick response.
I have outdoor log posts for deck railing, they will be cut then stained, do you think Titebond will work after I use an outdoor stain on the logs?
Titebond has a waterproof formulation, and that might work. I’ve never tried. My experience with wood left outdoors is that there’s not much that can really prevent it from splitting eventually.
Good tip, Rick. Although it's $37 at Amazon UK. I'm going to have stick to standard pva, works ok for me. (Now, where's my lottery numbers?) lol
Bryan
I used white glue for a number of years before I switched to Titebond. Thanks for watching, Bryan.
Good day Rick, does this method also help preserve bark and prevent it from falling off? I am trying to seal some logs for decorations for my wedding next year. Looking for some good methods. Thanks for the video!
I don’t think it will help with keeping bark on. When I turn a natural edge bowl, I turn the interior first, the try to dribble thin ca glue right at the bark line. Good luck with it!
Since it is an interior product how would work on logs stored outside
Titebond III is waterproof, and should be used if you store the wood open to rain. Thanks for watching, Kenneth.
Question Rick... I have a very large oak cookie that was cut today. I'm planning on turning it in to a table eventually. If I treat both ends of the cut this way, do you think it will work? Its about 5 inches thick and the size of a truck tire. I really don't want to buy Pentacryl.
Wow, that’s a big chunk of wood! I would put two heavy coats of Titebond on each side, then store it indoors, if at all possible. Good luck with it!
@@RickTurnsWoodturning It is! Thanks for the reply, I really appreciate it. I will give it a go. Great video.
Thanks for the tip, pva is so much cheaper than purpose made sealers
I
Thanks for watching, JP.
Thoughts on paraffin wax to seal end grain?
Oops, sorry for the delay in replying. At one time, I did use melted paraffin to seal the ends. There is also a video on UA-cam about a turner who keeps a pot of melted paraffin in his shop (I can't find it now, or I'd give you a link). The only problem with it is always having to melt the paraffin before using. But if you don't get new wood very often, that's not an issue, I would think. It does an excellent job of protecting the wood.
Rick, I was just reading through the comments and saw you replied to someone on this 2 yr old video 20 minutes ago. That is really amazing that you take the time to reply and help others. Got a subscription from me.
How would you compare the tightbond to using wax?
Hi, Colt. I love replying to comments! I'm not sure if wax would seal the wood more imperviously, but it would be a lot more trouble. You'd have to melt a good size vat of wax every time you wanted to seal a log. Titebond is a lot easier, and has proved to be an almost unbelievable sealer. I sealed two pine logs with Titebond and left them outside for over a year, and there was only a slight crack in one of them. I did see a youtube video a long time back where a turner kept a large pot of wax melted all the time, so he could seal his logs - he seemed pretty please with it.
I use a bread pan and leave the paraffin wax in it. It takes about 10 minutes to melt yup you have to pay attention to it and not get it too hot. Med heat will do just fine. I just dip my boards in it. After resawing a pallet of 1" x 10 x 4' long boards I dip each end. Works great and it won't dull tools.
What would you recommend for sealing, keeping the end grain from coming apart, I am making wood coasters? Thank.
Titebond glue. Once turned, however, any finish would be fine.
@@RickTurnsWoodturning thanks
If you are making a end table with a trunk, and you seal it with this, how do you get it off by sanding?
I have never done that myself. You’d have to use some really coarse grit sandpaper, I think. Two coats of Titebond make a really thick covering. Good luck with it!
i tried to sand PVA based glue off sometimes. Its almost impossible to sand. its up the paper. I would cut it down the end with blade thickness or half.
Sand it with a chain saw!!
Here I am, six coats of regular ol' finish and it CONTINUES TO SOAK IT UP fuehebvehdhchebrhhd😂
Great video. Could I ask you a question? I want to seal up a log that will be used in an art project. I have removed the bark and sanded it down slightly. Could I use Titebond to do the entire log? I would be happy if it also darkened it up a bit. It's a piece of ash that has been dead for some time. I was thinking of sealing it, or staining it, but this might do both? Thanks!
I doubt that sealing the sides of the log would do much to prevent it from splitting. To darken it some, you could use varnish, which will provide a small amount of sealing. Sealing the ends of the log is the best way of preventing splitting, although over the long run, it will probably still split.
@@RickTurnsWoodturning Thank you for your quick reply!
So Varnish instead of titebond then?
That would probably do what you want it to do - good luck!