Looking to buy a 2nd generation MINI? Make sure you are getting what you think you are getting. This video shows what to look for when buying Gen 2 MINI Cooper. Avoid the common pitfalls and have more money left over for mods! Check out the other videos on my channel - fix your MINI, track your MINI. Diagnostic scanner - Foxwell NT510 (Bidirectional, all modules, BMW/MINI only): amzn.to/2M4VBcR Mod MINI's Tools: amzn.to/2QEMznK Gen 2 MINI Cooper Parts: amzn.to/2A6rygv Mod MINI Tip jar: www.fundly.com/mod-mini-tip-jar Notice anything different about this video? Thanks to my friend John Prentice for special guest video camera / production work !! He works in television so it doesn't get any better than this. See all the Mod MINI Videos on my channel: ua-cam.com/users/modmini #modmini #modminiUA-cam ua-cam.com/users/modmini Attributions: Music by Bensound.com Videography / editing by John Prentice www.linkedin.com/in/john-prentice-72b1a4169/
I have a quick question and hope you might be able to help me out. My r53 supercharged mini at 110,00 miles started smoking ...smoking smoking.. I take it down the street and my whole neighborhood behind me is in a fog I dont drive the car any more but turns on fine and doesnt smoke at low rpms..
Hey I was curious about what camera setup you use when you're doing instructional videos. I'm looking to start making some at my job for VW's and maybe some fun stuff as well and thought your setup might be perfect for what I wanna do. Thanks for your time. -Mike
@@michaelochoa4533there is a problem of the leaking oil into the burn chamber and the issue could be 2 things: 1. piston rings 2. valve seal ring or both of them this you can identify them only if you open the engine
@@michaelochoa4533 sorry i read twice and you tell about a fog, so is white? the collor is not black? is white? if is white in this case you have leaking into the burn chamber of the Anti-freezer in this case is a issue of the cylinder head gasket you must replace it. what is strange you should have already problems with the temperature indicator and the boiling of the cooling liquid. in both cases you need to "open" the engine. if the collor is black already told you where is the problem and if is white I explained into this post.
Thank you, I was not AT ALL looking at Mini's for my son's first car but there is a very good deal on one with only 2 owners with the right engine, clean inside that I want to go look at so this video was super helpful. While I can't do all these things, a lot of them are simple enough.
I haven't seen any newer videos of yours lately, but I do still consider your videos the "GO TO" when working on my R53 S and now my R56 S Mini's, Thank you very much for the excellent information with your insight and great video angles and commentary throughout. VERY USEFULL...
It is actual truth. First mistake is BMW gave it long life oil change; 2 years...did they even test engine!?? Terrible mistake. This thing can use 1l on every 5000km or more; and dry sump is 4.5L ... so calculate it. You need to have f**king racing team to top oil every now and then. 2nd thing, they are really poorly build actually, somebody can say whatever. But new motor, as that expensive shouldn't consume any oil and they did. But they have good fuel consumption... I find it super weird, since my 1.4 95hp (n12b14a) consume 1l of oil every 4k km. But can do 7.8l/100km in city. Anyway nice cars to drive. Nightmare to own.
We have just bought a 2009 Mini Cooper Clubman today. It has almost 112k miles on it. I test drove it because I’m not easily hoodwinked by old cars, or dealers. It was such a smooth, quiet drive, and it just purred like a kitten. I’ll keep you posted on my experiences.
I’m an optimist, our other car, a Subaru Tribeca is rapidly approaching 200k and with only 18 mpg I feel the mini will do us very well. Her car fax was very impressive we are only her 3rd owners all her services and other work have been done as and when needed. As I said I’m very optimistic.
Bought the 2010 R55 Clubman JCW in 2013 with 43,000 miles. Now has 89K. We have fixed: new clutch and flywheel thermostat housing barn door solenoids update 2/23/2019: new water pump, water pump drive wheel and tensioner pulley for $1000! Ouch! Other than that just normal maintenance, but having the oil changes done at the shop is too expensive so I now DIY it. Also replaced the door solenoids myself. I like the car better now that I've been able to work on it. It is very fun to drive. More expensive to maintain than my Mustangs. Also bought the 2012 R56 Inspired by Goodwood model with 14K miles in 2014. Nothing but normal maintenance so far at 38K miles.
This is a great video. I'm buying a 2010 R56 with the N12 motor, and I was delighted to see that a lot of the new components on the particular one I'm getting are things you mentioned to look out for. Sure makes me feel better about my purchase!
hey man did you buy it? I am looking at some cooper's with the n12/n16 (so no turbo which should mean not many problems) and would love to hear what you got to say about your car thanks
r53 and r56 for me. All the new cars are so muted. You don't feel anything. I sometimes wonder if we're so stressed that people just want cocoons to drive around in. Life has overloaded their stimulus but it seems that being able to have other stressors so we can put down the ones that eat at us 24/7 is super rad! I love being able to feel all the bumps in my r56 I imagine it's an even more raw exp in the r53. May get one down the road or maybe a miata and supercharge it for the rwd action.
Agree. New cars suck, honestly. Someone let me drive their NC Miata for autocross for a couple laps. It was stock, but even so, I was surprised how soft it was. Even MINIs are getting softer because people complain they are too sporty.
I have an R56 Cooper S mid 2012 model out here in India. Auto Transmission. Bought used from a chap who had hardly used it. It hasn’t done many kilometres at all. When I got it a year ago it had done 33700 ish. I did a thorough service when I got it. And I ve put another 9000 joy riding kms on the clock in these last 12 months. I’ve changed the oil properly. And I keep checking the dipstick every couple of weeks and so far despite this being a turbo, I haven’t found signs of oil starvation. Even the oil colour one year down the line isn’t like it’s turned black or anything. It’s fine really. I have changed out the Auto Transmission Fluid and yes despite the car not having done many miles, I believe changing it out was a good thing mostly on account of the age of the fluid. I’ve changed all the 4 disc rotors and brake pads and brake wear sensors. Now the car is due it’s second service after it came into my hands. I will be replacing the V Belt or Serpentine Belt as it is called. The existing one is showing some signs of wear and becoming slowly a bit brittle around the edges. It is very probable that this has never until now, been changed. I will also be changing the oil again even though I use only fully synthetic BMW LL01 FE as recommended. And synthetic oils do last much longer than mineral oils. Still, I will follow the annual oil change method. I did face one issue around two months into ownership where the coolant pump which is made of plastic by the way, started leaking.so I bought an OEM-replacement for it and luckily the replacement is a metal one. We changed it. I also changed the spark plugs to Iridium Spark Plugs from the original BERU standard ones. Because Iridium Spark Plugs are much more efficient. If at all there is any issue, I think the vehicle status on board display gets confused and the brake wear sensor at the rear seems to show that I need to change my brake pads at a faster rate than normal. I believe this is due to dirt and dust interfering with the brake wear sensor. So I am going to remove it and clean it and re fix it back. I know that my brake pads do not need changing again, I haven’t done enough kilometres on them as yet. Otherwise this car is a real pleasure to drive and it’s linear power delivery and fantastic handling never fails to bring a big grin to the face! From a safety and general preparedness point of view I always carry a bottle of OEM BMW blue coolant, a bottle of distilled water and a bottle of BMW LL01 engine oil with me in the car. But truly. This R56 Mini Cooper is a real modern classic.
great review about the 2nd Gen Mini's. i have had 4 Mini Cooper's in the past. great little car if you are mechanically minded and keep on top of the maintenance and servicing. (Like any car really) the Gen 2 R56 Cooper S engine also caution for the "death rattle" on the engine timing chain. and you were spot on about checking between the engine and bellhousing, classic if an oil leak can indicate the crankshaft big end oil seal leaking. i have had 2x gen 1 and 2X gen 2 Mini's they all have their pros and cons. i think the 1.6 litre direct injection turbo Cooper S is nice balance of engine torque and power, the factory suspension is just right, no need to mess about and change much.
That was the first car that I drove,or learn to drive on, that was way back in in the year 1969 pr 1970, and I always love it ,but it is a shame that up to today it seems to have some problem!
I've the R55 clubman (not the Cooper works as shown in your upload) still, it's good fun to drive Anyway, Id mention keep an eye on front springs (they snap & it's instant tyre death) check the condition/age. Also get the intake valves checked for carbon build-up (it's an easy DIY job just awkward to get to) using intake cleaners is a waste of time. Checking the Turbo is straight forward, remove the intake hose & check for blade play easy 2min job, also a pretty cheap & quick DIY replacement job. Oil filter housing is a pain however, 2 sets of gaskets. Also check the coils & plugs incase a previous owner has gone eBay & bought cheap rubbish.. Also recommend fitting oil catch cans on both sides of the intake, helps reduce carbon on the intake valves. Also check ion oil consumption, if oil is dropping fast theirs an issue, possibly oil leaks at worst engine damage. Also cam cover, the pcv valve is internal & can jam/block-up which is another common fault.
Thanks for this-just picked up my 2013 flattop today; fortunately at last as far as exterior all of it checks out-now to get under it and look for the rest!
I don’t think N14 engine are problematic, it has to do more with owners not taking care of them. I have owned many and still do and never had any issues!
There are a few design flaws that are expensive for people not expecting repairs. I have heard of a few reliable N14 but most will have the thermostat, high pressure pump issues and the leaking oil filter housing gasket. Timing chain is less problematic if you regularly change engine oil and never let it go more than 1 liter low.
I catch up on your videos maybe 3-4x a year- this camera & editing is great! Thanks for the video, I like seeing you on camera for this style of guide. I still love the gopro style for repairs & other stuff. I hope you're enjoying springtime in your r56 MM(: Happy driving
Good to see the man behind the camera. Thanks to you I've done quite a bit of work on my R53 (including a valeo clutch, a bunch of stuff on the subframe (p/s hoses, powerflex lca bushings, inner ball joints), supercharger service). Curious to know what lift you're using. Looks tidy! And thanks for providing a fundly link so that we can truly thank you. I've sported a Mod Mini t-shirt for a while but happy to also donate to keep these video's going.
Great to see a jump up in production quality, but the main thing is the content is still the best on UA-cam! Learnt so much from your videos, still my No.1 source for R50 fixes👍
So much for being optimistic it’s just cost us $5,000 + in repairs the warranty also tipped in $1000, the dealer $500 and mini $250 now she’s running smooth as a baby’s **m again. Grand total was $6282.82
Do an oil pressure test using a gauge. Personal experience. Car and engine seemed good but oil pressure was well down when checked a few months later, New head needed as the cam shaft bearing surfaces and cams were worn and you can’t replace them. Most likely had a timing chain guide failure at some point that’s rattled against side casing shaving minor metal particles dropping in to the oil in the sump, pump has ground up the waste material and pushed through the oil. Common apparently
Sorry to hear that. The only way to test using a gauge is to bolt it onto the car, not something you would typically be permitted to do. Yes, possible if owner let it run out of oil. Generally they would also be doing longer oil change intervals for this to occur so you'd probably see carbon buildup when removing the oil fill cap.
Mod MINI the head was very clean, but what I realised later is it had been off. If anyone is buying an R56 knowing what I know now, taking the oil pressure switch out and putting a gauge in to see a real reading is what I would recommend, if the owner says no walk away... I’ve had to source another head which is actually hard to find, and go for a full engine rebuild
There are lemons and surprises out there of course, and while unfortunate, I doubt most owners would permit that kind of intrusive diagnosis unless they asked a shop themselves and have the buyer paid for it. I'd be surprised if they would let a private party buyer start taking apart their car.
I bought my first second hand MINI, its a 2012 Coupe with the N14 engine. Fingers crossed so far so good but when I got it with 20,000k on the clock it needed a new coolant sensor. Expensive job only because the sensor is integrated into the thermostat housing I couldve replaced it myself if it wasnt. Now that its been replaced they replaced the whole unit with a removable sensor now so its only a $80 + labour job, not a $900 one. One thing to keep in mind is rotate your tires. I got only 30k kilometers out of my front Dunlops because of the camber.
this is great info! im looking to buy a 2013 bond street from a friend and these were some of the stuffs I Wass looking for to make sure the great deal I was getting was worth it.
Very surprised you didn't mention the timing chain issues these cars have which can be catastrophic. There was an recall-like class action that allowed you to get it fixed with a reimbursement... But bmw never admitted fault and issued a formal recall so many of these cars I'm sure are still on the road with timing chain guides that are about to disintegrate
Feeding the myths about n14 engine supposed issues. My 2008 MCS has only had to have replaced the water pump. That was a few months ago. About 200€. In 11 years of (mildly hard) driving. BTW, n14´s were the last MINIs to have a stock LSD as a buying option. My BMW mechanic chuckles when I ask him about these supposed issues. Also happens in n18´s. Seems they just come from a bad maintenance. Not using the right oil, or not respecting maintenance times, for example. N18´s are obviously better engines, but don´t demonize n14´s, if correctly maintened they will be as reliable as the n18´s can be. Otherwise, nice video. will keep aware about rust on the other hand.
I've worked on lots of both. What you say is true regarding maintenance. But the N14 were very bad with regard to timing chains and they nearly all have premature oil leaks, water pump and thermostat failures as well. The JCW N14 seem better for some reason.
@@ModMINI Well, I have not experienced any of those problems in 11 years. Aside from the water pump failure. Well, and clutch startig to feel a bit "hard" (1.000€ repair). A timing change catastrophic problem can be avoided in n14´s if you change the tensioner. Before it happens, obviously. Worth the money I think. Thermostat and water pump failures seem to be common both in n14´s and n18´s. The key is to keep the maintenance up to date, and not being cheap in the oil you use. These engines are "special", but if well maintened are gems. There are people out there having them tuned to 300 ho, andd probably up. Would´t try it, personally TBH. 7 years in a row best engine in the world in their category. Would swap my n14 for a n18, but TUV here in Spain is like inquisition. Best regards!
Interesting. I would agree that very regular oil changes are important. Not sure how you got away with not having thermostat or oil leak issues though.
2008 R56 with 181000 miles. On my second clutch. Starting to get the oil leak around the filter housing. Love the car, I hate to get rid of it, but she is getting long in the tooth. Wish I could buy another one, just like it, brand new.
I enjoy watching all of your videos! They are such a help for the mini community. I have owned a R53 cooper s lovely car. Unfortunately I had to sell it some years ago but now i am searching for a R56 with the N18 engine. In your view does it worth to go with extra 3k$ to get a JCW one? The use will be as second car to cruise around and enjoy driving. For mods i am seraching for simple things, intercooler, downpipe air filter and maybe a safe stage 1 remap. Thanks in adavance! Greetings from Portugal
Just test drove a 2007 with 88k. Had a replacement junkyard engine. Timing chain was rattling. The pcv system is crap on these cars and the owners won't check their oil. Decided to test drive a 2012 Cooper S. Was down on power and hesitating. I then read about the high pressure fuel pump failures. These are really nice cars but have too many problems. Great video by the way.
Glad you checked the reviews. I talked my parents into checking out a loaded 2011 JCW for under $8k 85,000 miles. The car was 1 owner and well taken care of with all dealer maintenance done. Then sat for 6 years.. maybe on sales lots? Carfax had thermostat, chain tensioner and clutch out before 60,000. Then I started reading reviews.. they're common issues and talked them out of it.
@@dennisthemenace49 yeah I wouldve felt bad getting them something with horrible repair bills plus having them take a huge loss with trade in of a perfect 60k miles crossover. Just wish they were reliable... I read one comment they had to replace engine twice ($6000-8500) due to the chain tensioner. Interesting this is on my sportbike, the timing chain tensioner is a large pin with spring that just needs periodic adjusting. Eventually the spring wears out, so I simply replaced it with a large flat end bolt after watching yamaha mod videos for zero adjustment. It's a 90 cent fix bmw could learn
Great!! Video 🤝🤝🤝🤝. I want to ask you some questions, Sir:) I have 2013 S mini R56 N18 turbo 1.6L. some time I hear click- sounds on front driver side when I turn left or right turn. what make cause that problems????. Thank you sir. Hope to hear from you. Patrick
I bought a Mini last year November, my first car. After a month, all the problems started popping up. I spent so much money trying to get it fixed up and it's still not 100%. Wish I had seen this video sooner
@@Boocake1488 It sucks man, i have no choice but to sell it and get something decent. Should have done that from the beginning. I threw 15k into my car already, 15000 rand, South African currency. Your 3k is probably more than my 15k assuming you're not from SA
I talked my parents out of getting a 2011 jcw today for $8k. Carfax reports had thermostat changed at 27k. Time chain tensioner/guide at 47k and clutch at 59k. Carfax reported excellent maintenance upkeep and inspections at dealership every 7k miles up to 85k miles, then apparently stopped for 6 years. Maybe sold sat on car lots?? It was imported October 2010 and I dont know what engine it was. But clearly those issues match common reviews of expensive issues. It was a 1 owner that took care of the car, but seemed to get rid of it after putting $5,000+ in repairs on top of the $35,000+ car price. I talked them into getting it, and then this morning stated pulling up 2011 reviews of issues
thanks for the video, i am considering buying either a 2009, 2011 or 2012 mini, but how do i tell which engine each one has? do you know from which year to wich year the n14, n16,12, 18 was used?
A word of caution on that code: I've seen that code set due to un-metered air leaks (Crankcase vent, turbo intake boot, etc..) but I've also seen it set due to elongated timing chain or broken chain guides. *BMW/MINI mechanic by trade*
Thanks for the comment. It's sometimes frustrating to figure out what is going on with these engines. And they can have unmetered air leaks due to failed valve cover integrated PCV as well! Ugh!
i bought an r56 mcs last august and so far turbo needs to be replaced which i havent done yet, my n18 engine is in bad condition, i had a bad ignition coil so i replaced them all, i had worn spark plugs so i replaced them too. I'm working on saving to get a new turbo so by then im probably going to need a new catalytic converter too! I'm also surprised the clutch has no problems after almost 80k miles now BUT - ITS SO FUN TO DRIVE
This was great, thanks!!! Would you please consider doing a similar video for the 3rd Generation cars....as I'm getting ready to buy a 2015. Most appreciated!
Thank you for the great videos! I have a 2012 Mini Cooper JCW and I believe it’s the N14. Now I need a new engine, should I consider the N18 instead? Would it fit? Which other reliable mini engine would fit this car?
THANK YOU! I am going to see a RoadsterS 2013 in a couple days and had no idea what to look for and had planned to have a mechanic check it out. Now I can do some of the "checks" before I even decide whether I am interested. Did the Coupe/Roadster get a different engine in 2014 and 2015? I know that 2015 was the start for third generation Minis (at least the ones I have read about!). There are both 2014 and 2015 used roadsters and coupes out there, so would you recommend either of those model years as opposed to the 2013? The one I am going to see has less than 30,000 miles and looks like it spent most of its life in a garage however I know from my current car that even sitting in the garage doesn't mean things won't go wrong! I truly appreciate this video.
Thanks for the video man it's great and really helpful. I'm actually going to view a Mini Cooper tomorrow and wasn't sure what to look for, But now I do!😆 Thx man keep up the good work👌🏻
I got a 2008 Cooper S. The engine has a timing chain. But the timing chain tension is plastic. Which wears, and throws timing off slowly until one day it jsut wont start and you have to rebuild. THat happened to me. That was almost 4 years ago, Im still part of a class action lawsuit for that against Mini. I've also, jsut last year, spent 8500$ replacing the engine, with a newer version. So that wont happen again. Be a driving like a dream ever since then, but those 3 years before that, it was an absolute nightmare.
The tensioner is metal. The chain guides are plastic. But the problem is the chain itself, which stretches. All chains stretch, but the N14 engine was originally engineered with a tensioner that cannot take up sufficient slack.
Really appreciate your videos. I would like to know if the automatic transitions are fairly reliable or is a stick shift better? Looking to buy a 2010 S or a Clubman. Thanks!
Thanks Man for the advice. I’am thinking about a 2010 Mini, six speed auto. 72K miles. Is that decent mileage for the $5,000 that the dealer wants ? Best, Chris.
Did l see a JCW (John Cooper Works) Badge on the car you were filming ? If so, is there a reason you didn't mention it, because it would be interesting to know what your observation/s were ?
My 2011 R56 has been a magnet for issues! It has 131k miles on it currently and I plan on holding onto it at least until something real bad happens...like a broken timing chain, lol. 😅
I talked my parents out of getting one after showing them the car online yesterday that's 200 miles away. 2011 jcw for $8k 86k miles. Had the chain tensioner, thermostat and clutch changed before 48,000. I didnt want them regretting with repair bills
Hi! Love your video. I am looking to buy a used mini 2014-2015 any recommendations NOT TO BUY OR YES TO BUY. Please help. You are a pro in this. And dealers seems no too helpful. Ty so luch
I’ve owned a 2009 Mini R56 JCW for nearly 3 years. 2 weeks after purchase my turbo blew up. I spent $3000 on that. Then at the 1 year mark the clutch and flywheel disintegrated. That was another $3000. I’ve spent another $1500 or so in routine maintenance items; tires, coils, brakes, and replacing a cracked rim. In total the repair costs are a little over half the purchase price! Contrast this car with my BMW 135i, which was the same price when new. The BMW is faster, more refined, and more reliable. I only drive my cars about 5k-6k miles per year. In my opinion the Mini is nothing short of a stunning disappointment of a car. Cheap, rattling plastic and unreliable mechanics.
Sorry to hear that. Just to remember that the clutch and flywheel can go on any car. Same thing happened to me with a ford mondeo I owned once. Now that you have replaced these items I'd suggest that you keep the car and enjoy driving it. The chances of something else going wrong should be very low. The last thing you want to do is to panic and sell the car with all this work done to it and give it to someone else. I made that mistake and now see the car driving around my local area. Unfortunately you are unlikey to get money the you put into the car back again so my advise is to keep it for a couple of years. All the best.
Seems the JCW are built or taken care of better than the Cooper S. They are fine cars, just don't spend all your money on the car, and if possible, buy one that someone else already threw a bunch of money.
Looking to buy a 2nd generation MINI? Make sure you are getting what you think you are getting. This video shows what to look for when buying Gen 2 MINI Cooper. Avoid the common pitfalls and have more money left over for mods! Check out the other videos on my channel - fix your MINI, track your MINI.
Diagnostic scanner - Foxwell NT510 (Bidirectional, all modules, BMW/MINI only):
amzn.to/2M4VBcR
Mod MINI's Tools: amzn.to/2QEMznK
Gen 2 MINI Cooper Parts: amzn.to/2A6rygv
Mod MINI Tip jar: www.fundly.com/mod-mini-tip-jar
Notice anything different about this video? Thanks to my friend John Prentice for special guest video camera / production work !! He works in television so it doesn't get any better than this.
See all the Mod MINI Videos on my channel: ua-cam.com/users/modmini #modmini #modminiUA-cam
ua-cam.com/users/modmini
Attributions:
Music by Bensound.com
Videography / editing by John Prentice www.linkedin.com/in/john-prentice-72b1a4169/
I have a quick question and hope you might be able to help me out. My r53 supercharged mini at 110,00 miles started smoking ...smoking smoking.. I take it down the street and my whole neighborhood behind me is in a fog I dont drive the car any more but turns on fine and doesnt smoke at low rpms..
Hey I was curious about what camera setup you use when you're doing instructional videos. I'm looking to start making some at my job for VW's and maybe some fun stuff as well and thought your setup might be perfect for what I wanna do. Thanks for your time. -Mike
@@michaelochoa4533there is a problem of the leaking oil into the burn chamber and the issue could be 2 things:
1. piston rings
2. valve seal ring
or both of them
this you can identify them only if you open the engine
@@MCISAR thanks for the tips I appreciate it tons!
@@michaelochoa4533 sorry i read twice and you tell about a fog, so is white? the collor is not black? is white? if is white in this case you have leaking into the burn chamber of the Anti-freezer in this case is a issue of the cylinder head gasket you must replace it. what is strange you should have already problems with the temperature indicator and the boiling of the cooling liquid.
in both cases you need to "open" the engine.
if the collor is black already told you where is the problem and if is white I explained into this post.
Me walking into Mini's show room with a blue overall and white gloves ready to inspect after watching this video 😂
Listening to this with headphones: My right-ear feels neglected
Sir Raymond LuxuryYacht I’m only using my right earphone and wondering when he’s going to start talking, now half way through, what a pain
Exactly.
Sounded AOK on Computer Speakers
what about your other brain cell?
4 years after this is still very helpful. Thanks for the video.
As a new car buyer this was incredibly helpful (and a lot of the things apply to general car buying) so thank you !!!
Thank you, I was not AT ALL looking at Mini's for my son's first car but there is a very good deal on one with only 2 owners with the right engine, clean inside that I want to go look at so this video was super helpful. While I can't do all these things, a lot of them are simple enough.
My mini now at 230,000km and still working good.
What model and engine. I want to buy one for wifey
Alfredo Telles judging by his profile pic, an R50-R53 Cooper S.
@@Dinoandtop Sorry for late reply. R53 sir.
You are the only reason I work on my car so regularly, thank you so much man! You've inspired a 16 yr old to race q mini cooper!
he has inspired me (a 60 year old) with no mechanical back ground to service my own R53, service the supercharger project is next
I haven't seen any newer videos of yours lately, but I do still consider your videos the "GO TO" when working on my R53 S and now my R56 S Mini's, Thank you very much for the excellent information with your insight and great video angles and commentary throughout. VERY USEFULL...
Dude, you literally blew my mind within 10 seconds. New, fresh intro and a bloody face reveal! Damn!
3:15 is all you need for this video lol
I couldn't have said it better myself. I have the N14, and lucky for me, the $5000 worth of engine work it needed was under a CPO warranty.
@@sirgalahad1470 i dropped 4 and it wasnt covered :(
ahaha))
It is actual truth. First mistake is BMW gave it long life oil change; 2 years...did they even test engine!?? Terrible mistake. This thing can use 1l on every 5000km or more; and dry sump is 4.5L ... so calculate it. You need to have f**king racing team to top oil every now and then.
2nd thing, they are really poorly build actually, somebody can say whatever. But new motor, as that expensive shouldn't consume any oil and they did.
But they have good fuel consumption... I find it super weird, since my 1.4 95hp (n12b14a) consume 1l of oil every 4k km. But can do 7.8l/100km in city.
Anyway nice cars to drive. Nightmare to own.
looking into an N18 2013 Cooper S 43K mi tomorrow ;)
You are a hero to all Mini owners.
Finally i saw the wholesome face behind Mod Mini. But thank you for sharing...avid fan/follower here🙂
Need you advice on tuning. Can i have your email add or tel no. if you may..tnx
We have just bought a 2009 Mini Cooper Clubman today. It has almost 112k miles on it. I test drove it because I’m not easily hoodwinked by old cars, or dealers. It was such a smooth, quiet drive, and it just purred like a kitten. I’ll keep you posted on my experiences.
Good luck. Hopefully someone else already threw the money at it.
I’m an optimist, our other car, a Subaru Tribeca is rapidly approaching 200k and with only 18 mpg I feel the mini will do us very well. Her car fax was very impressive we are only her 3rd owners all her services and other work have been done as and when needed. As I said I’m very optimistic.
@@MrTheknittinglady did you get it?
How's it holding up?
Would love an update on this honestly
These types of guys, their expertise, and videos Are so special to us men raised by Single Mother. Be well, Good sir.
My dad taught me absolutely nothing about cars. You can do it too :P
Bought the 2010 R55 Clubman JCW in 2013 with 43,000 miles. Now has 89K.
We have fixed:
new clutch and flywheel
thermostat housing
barn door solenoids
update 2/23/2019:
new water pump, water pump drive wheel and tensioner pulley for $1000! Ouch!
Other than that just normal maintenance, but having the oil changes done at the shop is too expensive so I now DIY it.
Also replaced the door solenoids myself. I like the car better now that I've been able to work on it.
It is very fun to drive. More expensive to maintain than my Mustangs.
Also bought the 2012 R56 Inspired by Goodwood model with 14K miles in 2014. Nothing but normal maintenance so far at 38K miles.
You must love that Goodwood edition. You're one lucky guy to have been able to get your hands on one of those! Let me know if you ever sell!
@@peej.w7598 We certainly do love our Goodwood, it's one of only 200 that have manual transmissions.
@@SqeakyToy even luckier than I thought! Manual is the only way to go. Especially with the mini
Any news from the 2012 Cooper? Found a good deal on a 2013 with just 63k miles but I’m scared to buy it
@@garythecyclingnerd6219 our 2012 n18 engine Cooper is still good. Had to fix the thermostat housing though. That's typical with these cars.
This is a great video. I'm buying a 2010 R56 with the N12 motor, and I was delighted to see that a lot of the new components on the particular one I'm getting are things you mentioned to look out for. Sure makes me feel better about my purchase!
hey man did you buy it?
I am looking at some cooper's with the n12/n16 (so no turbo which should mean not many problems) and would love to hear what you got to say about your car
thanks
It's good to see a face! I've watched a ton of the r53 stuff. Great things my man. Much appreciated!
NICE TO SEE YOU IN PERSON FOR THE FIRST TIME
First and last time... camera shy, my producer/director friend made me do it
r53 and r56 for me. All the new cars are so muted. You don't feel anything. I sometimes wonder if we're so stressed that people just want cocoons to drive around in. Life has overloaded their stimulus but it seems that being able to have other stressors so we can put down the ones that eat at us 24/7 is super rad! I love being able to feel all the bumps in my r56 I imagine it's an even more raw exp in the r53. May get one down the road or maybe a miata and supercharge it for the rwd action.
Agree. New cars suck, honestly. Someone let me drive their NC Miata for autocross for a couple laps. It was stock, but even so, I was surprised how soft it was. Even MINIs are getting softer because people complain they are too sporty.
Great production quality on this one!!! Glad to see you in front of the camera!!!
I bought a nice 2012 S R56 2 weeks ago here in India. It is a blast to drive. What fantastic turbo kick!
I have an R56 Cooper S mid 2012 model out here in India. Auto Transmission. Bought used from a chap who had hardly used it. It hasn’t done many kilometres at all. When I got it a year ago it had done 33700 ish. I did a thorough service when I got it. And I ve put another 9000 joy riding kms on the clock in these last 12 months. I’ve changed the oil properly. And I keep checking the dipstick every couple of weeks and so far despite this being a turbo, I haven’t found signs of oil starvation. Even the oil colour one year down the line isn’t like it’s turned black or anything. It’s fine really. I have changed out the Auto Transmission Fluid and yes despite the car not having done many miles, I believe changing it out was a good thing mostly on account of the age of the fluid. I’ve changed all the 4 disc rotors and brake pads and brake wear sensors. Now the car is due it’s second service after it came into my hands. I will be replacing the V Belt or Serpentine Belt as it is called. The existing one is showing some signs of wear and becoming slowly a bit brittle around the edges. It is very probable that this has never until now, been changed. I will also be changing the oil again even though I use only fully synthetic BMW LL01 FE as recommended. And synthetic oils do last much longer than mineral oils. Still, I will follow the annual oil change method. I did face one issue around two months into ownership where the coolant pump which is made of plastic by the way, started leaking.so I bought an OEM-replacement for it and luckily the replacement is a metal one. We changed it. I also changed the spark plugs to Iridium Spark Plugs from the original BERU standard ones. Because Iridium Spark Plugs are much more efficient. If at all there is any issue, I think the vehicle status on board display gets confused and the brake wear sensor at the rear seems to show that I need to change my brake pads at a faster rate than normal. I believe this is due to dirt and dust interfering with the brake wear sensor. So I am going to remove it and clean it and re fix it back. I know that my brake pads do not need changing again, I haven’t done enough kilometres on them as yet. Otherwise this car is a real pleasure to drive and it’s linear power delivery and fantastic handling never fails to bring a big grin to the face!
From a safety and general preparedness point of view I always carry a bottle of OEM BMW blue coolant, a bottle of distilled water and a bottle of BMW LL01 engine oil with me in the car.
But truly. This R56 Mini Cooper is a real modern classic.
Bless your soul. Found a perfect 12' Mini S. However, was looking for info before heading to dealership.
I love how this is a different style of video than usual! Very interesting! (:
Can I just hire you to do it for me haha
If you are local to Pacific Northwest, North America...
@@ModMINI I'm sure you can take one your looking at to your local mini dealer and they can inspect it for you.
Ha ha ha so funny ha ha ha
@@ModMINI yes please. Are you in Hawaii
@@ModMINI I’m in Spokane, how near are you?
That's a really good video! It makes me way more secure about getting a good deal when I'll buy mine.
Always go for the N18 ones. If you can, get a 2013 those are hands down as reliable as an R56 will ever get.
Finally, now I am able to see you face. Thank you for all your videos!
Loving this channel ;) I own a 2010 mini cooper S, 20.000 miles
great review about the 2nd Gen Mini's. i have had 4 Mini Cooper's in the past. great little car if you are mechanically minded and keep on top of the maintenance and servicing. (Like any car really) the Gen 2 R56 Cooper S engine also caution for the "death rattle" on the engine timing chain. and you were spot on about checking between the engine and bellhousing, classic if an oil leak can indicate the crankshaft big end oil seal leaking. i have had 2x gen 1 and 2X gen 2 Mini's they all have their pros and cons. i think the 1.6 litre direct injection turbo Cooper S is nice balance of engine torque and power, the factory suspension is just right, no need to mess about and change much.
Finally a face to the voice!
Looking to find a Clubman, thanks for the engine info.
Cheers
Robert sterling Did you ever find a Mini? I have a 2011 clubman....are you interested?
That was the first car that I drove,or learn to drive on, that was way back in in the year 1969 pr 1970, and I always love it ,but it is a shame that up to today it seems to have some problem!
I've the R55 clubman (not the Cooper works as shown in your upload) still, it's good fun to drive
Anyway, Id mention keep an eye on front springs (they snap & it's instant tyre death) check the condition/age.
Also get the intake valves checked for carbon build-up (it's an easy DIY job just awkward to get to) using intake cleaners is a waste of time.
Checking the Turbo is straight forward, remove the intake hose & check for blade play easy 2min job, also a pretty cheap & quick DIY replacement job.
Oil filter housing is a pain however, 2 sets of gaskets.
Also check the coils & plugs incase a previous owner has gone eBay & bought cheap rubbish..
Also recommend fitting oil catch cans on both sides of the intake, helps reduce carbon on the intake valves.
Also check ion oil consumption, if oil is dropping fast theirs an issue, possibly oil leaks at worst engine damage.
Also cam cover, the pcv valve is internal & can jam/block-up which is another common fault.
Good points. Have a 2012 Clubman R55 N18. Carbon buildup issue fixed as of the 2011 model year.
Holy production value Batman!
My fiancé’s coworker is selling his 08 Mini Cooper, I will definitely watch out for these things!
Thanks for this-just picked up my 2013 flattop today; fortunately at last as far as exterior all of it checks out-now to get under it and look for the rest!
I like my R56 JCW. Good to have amateur mechanical skills if you own one. Change oil 3000 miles.
I don’t think N14 engine are problematic, it has to do more with owners not taking care of them. I have owned many and still do and never had any issues!
There are a few design flaws that are expensive for people not expecting repairs. I have heard of a few reliable N14 but most will have the thermostat, high pressure pump issues and the leaking oil filter housing gasket. Timing chain is less problematic if you regularly change engine oil and never let it go more than 1 liter low.
Thanks for the tips. I took all your tips buying my first car (Mini Cooper).
I catch up on your videos maybe 3-4x a year- this camera & editing is great! Thanks for the video, I like seeing you on camera for this style of guide. I still love the gopro style for repairs & other stuff. I hope you're enjoying springtime in your r56 MM(: Happy driving
Good to see the man behind the camera. Thanks to you I've done quite a bit of work on my R53 (including a valeo clutch, a bunch of stuff on the subframe (p/s hoses, powerflex lca bushings, inner ball joints), supercharger service). Curious to know what lift you're using. Looks tidy! And thanks for providing a fundly link so that we can truly thank you. I've sported a Mod Mini t-shirt for a while but happy to also donate to keep these video's going.
Thank you for your support! The lift is www.ezcarlift.com. Talking to the inventor about possibly doing a video for that.
Great to see a jump up in production quality, but the main thing is the content is still the best on UA-cam! Learnt so much from your videos, still my No.1 source for R50 fixes👍
This content increase for this video is a one time thing. Special guest producer.
Great advice. Looking at buying one of these and it's good to know what to look for.
you have been amazing! thank you for the free class on buying a mini
I'd be interested to know how many car buyers are prepared to do that kind of inspection?
Buy yourself the mini with the N18 engine.
Lot less problems than the N14
When I was looking for mine, I used the realoem link from North American Motoring. Definitely glad I came across that information.
Love the intro Awesome editing! Would really love this style for the r53 haha new content is really impressive
This is probably a one time thing. This style would be very time consuming for the how to videos which don’t get as many views.
Totally understand haha I bring it up because thanks to you I ended up getting a r53 and enjoyed it ever since because of that so thanks
😂😂😂 I had my right headphone in thinking well maybe it’s just music until I read comments
Thanks Hommie... Looking to buy one and this helps me what to look for when I test drive her.
Great video, really helpful in my search for a used Clubman or Countryman.
thanks for the thorough overview. lots of good to know info!
So much for being optimistic it’s just cost us $5,000 + in repairs the warranty also tipped in $1000, the dealer $500 and mini $250 now she’s running smooth as a baby’s **m again. Grand total was $6282.82
Do an oil pressure test using a gauge. Personal experience. Car and engine seemed good but oil pressure was well down when checked a few months later, New head needed as the cam shaft bearing surfaces and cams were worn and you can’t replace them. Most likely had a timing chain guide failure at some point that’s rattled against side casing shaving minor metal particles dropping in to the oil in the sump, pump has ground up the waste material and pushed through the oil. Common apparently
Sorry to hear that. The only way to test using a gauge is to bolt it onto the car, not something you would typically be permitted to do. Yes, possible if owner let it run out of oil. Generally they would also be doing longer oil change intervals for this to occur so you'd probably see carbon buildup when removing the oil fill cap.
Mod MINI the head was very clean, but what I realised later is it had been off. If anyone is buying an R56 knowing what I know now, taking the oil pressure switch out and putting a gauge in to see a real reading is what I would recommend, if the owner says no walk away... I’ve had to source another head which is actually hard to find, and go for a full engine rebuild
There are lemons and surprises out there of course, and while unfortunate, I doubt most owners would permit that kind of intrusive diagnosis unless they asked a shop themselves and have the buyer paid for it. I'd be surprised if they would let a private party buyer start taking apart their car.
Thank you . Good Man
Thanks for the tips! Going to check out a 2009 model today. 🚙
Also check for any leaks around the footwell module.
I bought my first second hand MINI, its a 2012 Coupe with the N14 engine. Fingers crossed so far so good but when I got it with 20,000k on the clock it needed a new coolant sensor. Expensive job only because the sensor is integrated into the thermostat housing I couldve replaced it myself if it wasnt. Now that its been replaced they replaced the whole unit with a removable sensor now so its only a $80 + labour job, not a $900 one. One thing to keep in mind is rotate your tires. I got only 30k kilometers out of my front Dunlops because of the camber.
this is great info! im looking to buy a 2013 bond street from a friend and these were some of the stuffs I Wass looking for to make sure the great deal I was getting was worth it.
That GP is a really cool spec
Love my 2011 mini coop, seems like I’m putting it in the shop at least once a year.
Isn't that common for just about any car that's out of warranty?
@@stuartbear922 not Toyotas or Hondas. But Euro cars? Yup.
@@djkenny1202 Nah, you just probably don't have French brands there in the US, do you? Renault, Citroën and Peugeot are pretty reliable.
@@revirdkcalb they have more tolerance for them
@@stuartbear922 my car was in warranty up until I hit 100,0000 miles 😂
Wow. Loving the new intro!
Kurt, great video as usual. I run 2 R55's (diesel) and an R50. Love watching your channel :) All the best, Sean
Good to see Mod Mini back! Great vid! Like the new style on how it was recorded!
Thanks. It's probably a one time thing - special guest producer/cameraman.
I have a 2008 cooper that’s just approaching 20,000. It seems I’m always repairing something, but I really do love the car. It’s an automatic.
Very helpful I'm looking into getting a 2nd or 3gen I'm either going with the 2009 convertible or the 2014 clubman S.
Very surprised you didn't mention the timing chain issues these cars have which can be catastrophic. There was an recall-like class action that allowed you to get it fixed with a reimbursement... But bmw never admitted fault and issued a formal recall so many of these cars I'm sure are still on the road with timing chain guides that are about to disintegrate
The ones that are still on the road must have been properly repaired. I see few timing chain jobs lately.
Really I didn’t know that
The production of this vid was fucking fantastic! 👌
My friend who helped me is a professional.
Feeding the myths about n14 engine supposed issues. My 2008 MCS has only had to have replaced the water pump. That was a few months ago. About 200€. In 11 years of (mildly hard) driving. BTW, n14´s were the last MINIs to have a stock LSD as a buying option. My BMW mechanic chuckles when I ask him about these supposed issues. Also happens in n18´s. Seems they just come from a bad maintenance. Not using the right oil, or not respecting maintenance times, for example. N18´s are obviously better engines, but don´t demonize n14´s, if correctly maintened they will be as reliable as the n18´s can be. Otherwise, nice video. will keep aware about rust on the other hand.
I've worked on lots of both. What you say is true regarding maintenance. But the N14 were very bad with regard to timing chains and they nearly all have premature oil leaks, water pump and thermostat failures as well. The JCW N14 seem better for some reason.
@@ModMINI Well, I have not experienced any of those problems in 11 years. Aside from the water pump failure. Well, and clutch startig to feel a bit "hard" (1.000€ repair). A timing change catastrophic problem can be avoided in n14´s if you change the tensioner. Before it happens, obviously. Worth the money I think. Thermostat and water pump failures seem to be common both in n14´s and n18´s. The key is to keep the maintenance up to date, and not being cheap in the oil you use. These engines are "special", but if well maintened are gems. There are people out there having them tuned to 300 ho, andd probably up. Would´t try it, personally TBH. 7 years in a row best engine in the world in their category. Would swap my n14 for a n18, but TUV here in Spain is like inquisition. Best regards!
Interesting. I would agree that very regular oil changes are important. Not sure how you got away with not having thermostat or oil leak issues though.
Another great informative video! Just wondering what make are the protective gloves you use? Mini Cooper auto 2008 owner with 16000 miles!
2008 R56 with 181000 miles. On my second clutch. Starting to get the oil leak around the filter housing. Love the car, I hate to get rid of it, but she is getting long in the tooth. Wish I could buy another one, just like it, brand new.
I enjoy watching all of your videos! They are such a help for the mini community. I have owned a R53 cooper s lovely car. Unfortunately I had to sell it some years ago but now i am searching for a R56 with the N18 engine. In your view does it worth to go with extra 3k$ to get a JCW one? The use will be as second car to cruise around and enjoy driving. For mods i am seraching for simple things, intercooler, downpipe air filter and maybe a safe stage 1 remap.
Thanks in adavance! Greetings from Portugal
Awesome video ! 👍🏻👍🏻 nice editing! Very good quality!
Just test drove a 2007 with 88k. Had a replacement junkyard engine. Timing chain was rattling. The pcv system is crap on these cars and the owners won't check their oil. Decided to test drive a 2012 Cooper S. Was down on power and hesitating. I then read about the high pressure fuel pump failures. These are really nice cars but have too many problems. Great video by the way.
Glad you checked the reviews. I talked my parents into checking out a loaded 2011 JCW for under $8k 85,000 miles. The car was 1 owner and well taken care of with all dealer maintenance done. Then sat for 6 years.. maybe on sales lots? Carfax had thermostat, chain tensioner and clutch out before 60,000. Then I started reading reviews.. they're common issues and talked them out of it.
@@Roadsurfer2k11 good job.
@@dennisthemenace49 yeah I wouldve felt bad getting them something with horrible repair bills plus having them take a huge loss with trade in of a perfect 60k miles crossover. Just wish they were reliable... I read one comment they had to replace engine twice ($6000-8500) due to the chain tensioner. Interesting this is on my sportbike, the timing chain tensioner is a large pin with spring that just needs periodic adjusting. Eventually the spring wears out, so I simply replaced it with a large flat end bolt after watching yamaha mod videos for zero adjustment. It's a 90 cent fix bmw could learn
@@Roadsurfer2k11 they are beautiful cars with too many fatal flaws.
Nice to finally meet you Mod Mini. Lol. I always wondered what you looked like. 🧐
I didn't want to go in front of the camera but my producer for the day made me do it.
If you buy from a used car dealership, take the car on the freeway and rev it to at least 4000 RPM to activate the check engine light.
Thanks for a great video, what scanner do you recommend that can Diagnose the majority of manufacturers?
Still my favourite generation though.
Great!! Video 🤝🤝🤝🤝. I want to ask you some questions, Sir:) I have 2013 S mini R56 N18 turbo 1.6L. some time I hear click- sounds on front driver side when I turn left or right turn. what make cause that problems????. Thank you sir. Hope to hear from you. Patrick
I bought a Mini last year November, my first car. After a month, all the problems started popping up. I spent so much money trying to get it fixed up and it's still not 100%. Wish I had seen this video sooner
Heh, I'm in the exact same boat man. About 3k in the hole right now, and more work to be done.
@@Boocake1488 It sucks man, i have no choice but to sell it and get something decent. Should have done that from the beginning. I threw 15k into my car already, 15000 rand, South African currency. Your 3k is probably more than my 15k assuming you're not from SA
@@HorrorbleGamer USA. I'll be selling it sometime this year and finding something much more reliable. Maybe a Toyota.
I talked my parents out of getting a 2011 jcw today for $8k. Carfax reports had thermostat changed at 27k. Time chain tensioner/guide at 47k and clutch at 59k. Carfax reported excellent maintenance upkeep and inspections at dealership every 7k miles up to 85k miles, then apparently stopped for 6 years. Maybe sold sat on car lots?? It was imported October 2010 and I dont know what engine it was. But clearly those issues match common reviews of expensive issues. It was a 1 owner that took care of the car, but seemed to get rid of it after putting $5,000+ in repairs on top of the $35,000+ car price. I talked them into getting it, and then this morning stated pulling up 2011 reviews of issues
thanks for the video, i am considering buying either a 2009, 2011 or 2012 mini, but how do i tell which engine each one has? do you know from which year to wich year the n14, n16,12, 18 was used?
A word of caution on that code:
I've seen that code set due to un-metered air leaks (Crankcase vent, turbo intake boot, etc..) but I've also seen it set due to elongated timing chain or broken chain guides.
*BMW/MINI mechanic by trade*
Thanks for the comment. It's sometimes frustrating to figure out what is going on with these engines. And they can have unmetered air leaks due to failed valve cover integrated PCV as well! Ugh!
What are things to look for on a 2011 , 95 k miles on the vehicle, they want 9,500 for the car?
i bought an r56 mcs last august and so far turbo needs to be replaced which i havent done yet, my n18 engine is in bad condition, i had a bad ignition coil so i replaced them all, i had worn spark plugs so i replaced them too. I'm working on saving to get a new turbo so by then im probably going to need a new catalytic converter too! I'm also surprised the clutch has no problems after almost 80k miles now BUT - ITS SO FUN TO DRIVE
N18 eats coil packs and spark plugs. Just plan to do them all every 3 years. Cat should last a long time. Clutch might last about 130k
@@ModMINI i said the cat cuz my turbos leaking oil into the exhaust, its gonna ruin it if i dont replace my turbo soon:/
This was great, thanks!!! Would you please consider doing a similar video for the 3rd Generation cars....as I'm getting ready to buy a 2015. Most appreciated!
Thank you for the great videos!
I have a 2012 Mini Cooper JCW and I believe it’s the N14. Now I need a new engine, should I consider the N18 instead? Would it fit? Which other reliable mini engine would fit this car?
N18 is not compatible with N14 ECU or wiring harness. Put another N14 in it.
THANK YOU! I am going to see a RoadsterS 2013 in a couple days and had no idea what to look for and had planned to have a mechanic check it out. Now I can do some of the "checks" before I even decide whether I am interested. Did the Coupe/Roadster get a different engine in 2014 and 2015? I know that 2015 was the start for third generation Minis (at least the ones I have read about!). There are both 2014 and 2015 used roadsters and coupes out there, so would you recommend either of those model years as opposed to the 2013? The one I am going to see has less than 30,000 miles and looks like it spent most of its life in a garage however I know from my current car that even sitting in the garage doesn't mean things won't go wrong! I truly appreciate this video.
Coupes/Roadsters are 2nd generation and use the same N16/N18 engine family.
I was going to comment that this looks like OR or WA and sure enough you have a Pacific Raceways video!
Thanks for the video man it's great and really helpful. I'm actually going to view a Mini Cooper tomorrow and wasn't sure what to look for, But now I do!😆 Thx man keep up the good work👌🏻
Looking at getting my 2nd mini and this is a great help....what's the best most reliable mini
Gen 3 are most reliable but not the best.
I got a 2008 Cooper S. The engine has a timing chain. But the timing chain tension is plastic. Which wears, and throws timing off slowly until one day it jsut wont start and you have to rebuild. THat happened to me. That was almost 4 years ago, Im still part of a class action lawsuit for that against Mini. I've also, jsut last year, spent 8500$ replacing the engine, with a newer version. So that wont happen again. Be a driving like a dream ever since then, but those 3 years before that, it was an absolute nightmare.
The tensioner is metal. The chain guides are plastic. But the problem is the chain itself, which stretches. All chains stretch, but the N14 engine was originally engineered with a tensioner that cannot take up sufficient slack.
@@ModMINI yea, what you said lol. I've replaced it 4 times, and replaced the engine once.
Really appreciate your videos. I would like to know if the automatic transitions are fairly reliable or is a stick shift better? Looking to buy a 2010 S or a Clubman. Thanks!
Thanks Man for the advice.
I’am thinking about a 2010 Mini, six speed auto. 72K miles. Is that decent mileage for the $5,000 that the dealer wants ?
Best,
Chris.
Did l see a JCW (John Cooper Works) Badge on the car you were filming ?
If so, is there a reason you didn't mention it, because it would be interesting to know what your observation/s were ?
That would be another topic for another video.
@@ModMINI When, exactly ???
Hi,changed the HPFP and now a 2C01 code is present .
Im looking at a n14... Please come to Serbia, it needs an inspection
I wish I could accept that invitation
@@ModMINI well you are more than welcome... But unfortunately... I got an Audi a3
I'd see if there is any record of the timing chain being replaced. Skip it if not.
Nice, a 3 Dr S Clubman! I own a 2011 S Clubman!
My 2011 R56 has been a magnet for issues! It has 131k miles on it currently and I plan on holding onto it at least until something real bad happens...like a broken timing chain, lol. 😅
I talked my parents out of getting one after showing them the car online yesterday that's 200 miles away. 2011 jcw for $8k 86k miles.
Had the chain tensioner, thermostat and clutch changed before 48,000. I didnt want them regretting with repair bills
Extremely-well spoken
Hi! Love your video. I am looking to buy a used mini 2014-2015 any recommendations NOT TO BUY OR YES TO BUY. Please help. You are a pro in this. And dealers seems no too helpful. Ty so luch
3rd gen are pretty reliable, but 2016 and later are probably a little nicer build quality
I’ve owned a 2009 Mini R56 JCW for nearly 3 years. 2 weeks after purchase my turbo blew up. I spent $3000 on that. Then at the 1 year mark the clutch and flywheel disintegrated. That was another $3000.
I’ve spent another $1500 or so in routine maintenance items; tires, coils, brakes, and replacing a cracked rim. In total the repair costs are a little over half the purchase price!
Contrast this car with my BMW 135i, which was the same price when new. The BMW is faster, more refined, and more reliable.
I only drive my cars about 5k-6k miles per year. In my opinion the Mini is nothing short of a stunning disappointment of a car. Cheap, rattling plastic and unreliable mechanics.
Sorry to hear that. Just to remember that the clutch and flywheel can go on any car. Same thing happened to me with a ford mondeo I owned once. Now that you have replaced these items I'd suggest that you keep the car and enjoy driving it. The chances of something else going wrong should be very low. The last thing you want to do is to panic and sell the car with all this work done to it and give it to someone else. I made that mistake and now see the car driving around my local area. Unfortunately you are unlikey to get money the you put into the car back again so my advise is to keep it for a couple of years. All the best.
Awesome content. Iam looking for a jcw.
Not sure if the choice is the best😁
Seems the JCW are built or taken care of better than the Cooper S. They are fine cars, just don't spend all your money on the car, and if possible, buy one that someone else already threw a bunch of money.