What I really love about these videos is, how precise and measured you are, and also how you minimise the noise you make, and the respect you show the wood.
Love this series Tree Dude, just drawing up plans for one . Got some nice Oak with some burrs in that I will use, just hope I can do your design and the oak justice. TFS G :)
Love your channel always informative. However, one question for you regarding the shelf you applied an ample amount of glue on the dado. Are you not concerned with two opposing grains and the chance of expansion and contraction, due to humidity changes and the wood splitting?
Hi Dan, thank you for the question. Wood expands and contracts mostly across the grain, tangent to the growth rings. The shelf board that I glued into the dado to form the drawer openings has the same grain orientation as the sides and bottom of the saw till. So do the drawer dividers. This minimizes any differences. Three years later, the joinery is holding up just fine. Best regards.
Hello Jack. I don't have a published plan but the dimensions are as follows. The saw till is 24" wide by 32" high and 8.75" deep. The drawer fronts are 3.5" x 7". For the curved sides, starting from the top, the top edge extends 1" horizontally before the upper elliptical curve begins downward. This allows room for the rails and backboards. The upper curve is 3.5" x 9". The transition notch where the upper curve meets the lower curve is 1/2" wide. The lower elliptical curve is 3.5" x 15". At the bottom of the lower ellipse the curve goes straight (horizontally) for 1/4". I did this because from a design standpoint I want the curve to "land" just a bit before it ends. The total width of the side is the sum of these dimensions. 1" horizontal at top + 3.5" width of upper curve + 1/2" transition notch + 3.5" width of lower curve + 1/4" "landing" = 8.75" total width. The kerf spacing for the saw slots is 1.5" (kerfs are 1/8"). The height and position of the board that the saw handles rest upon is determined by the saws you have. I hope this information helps you. Please let me know and thanks for visiting.
I'm not sure I understand. Do you need the height and position of the board that the saw handles are placed on? I determined these dimensions by trial and error using my own assortment of saws. Your saws will probably require a different board size and location. For my saws, the board height is 3.5" and the distance between it and the backboard is 5.5". Regards.
+treebangham I think I got everything I need. If not I'll get back to you. Thank you for your help. I look forward to your next project. What is coming down the pike?
What I really love about these videos is, how precise and measured you are, and also how you minimise the noise you make, and the respect you show the wood.
Love this series Tree Dude, just drawing up plans for one . Got some nice Oak with some burrs in that I will use, just hope I can do your design and the oak justice. TFS G :)
Thanks Graeme. Let me know how your till turns out!
Love your channel always informative. However, one question for you regarding the shelf you applied an ample amount of glue on the dado. Are you not concerned with two opposing grains and the chance of expansion and contraction, due to humidity changes and the wood splitting?
Hi Dan, thank you for the question. Wood expands and contracts mostly across the grain, tangent to the growth rings. The shelf board that I glued into the dado to form the drawer openings has the same grain orientation as the sides and bottom of the saw till. So do the drawer dividers. This minimizes any differences. Three years later, the joinery is holding up just fine. Best regards.
whew! ohthat'sarelief.
congratulations on not using pocket screws!
*****
lol
btw, I'm really enjoying this project.
Sir are plans a cut list available for this?
Hello Jack. I don't have a published plan but the dimensions are as follows. The saw till is 24" wide by 32" high and 8.75" deep. The drawer fronts are 3.5" x 7". For the curved sides, starting from the top, the top edge extends 1" horizontally before the upper elliptical curve begins downward. This allows room for the rails and backboards. The upper curve is 3.5" x 9". The transition notch where the upper curve meets the lower curve is 1/2" wide. The lower elliptical curve is 3.5" x 15". At the bottom of the lower ellipse the curve goes straight (horizontally) for 1/4". I did this because from a design standpoint I want the curve to "land" just a bit before it ends. The total width of the side is the sum of these dimensions. 1" horizontal at top + 3.5" width of upper curve + 1/2" transition notch + 3.5" width of lower curve + 1/4" "landing" = 8.75" total width. The kerf spacing for the saw slots is 1.5" (kerfs are 1/8"). The height and position of the board that the saw handles rest upon is determined by the saws you have. I hope this information helps you. Please let me know and thanks for visiting.
+treebangham thank you. However I cannot get anything past the part of where the saw handles rest😢
I'm not sure I understand. Do you need the height and position of the board that the saw handles are placed on? I determined these dimensions by trial and error using my own assortment of saws. Your saws will probably require a different board size and location. For my saws, the board height is 3.5" and the distance between it and the backboard is 5.5". Regards.
+treebangham I think I got everything I need. If not I'll get back to you. Thank you for your help. I look forward to your next project. What is coming down the pike?
Good luck with your project Jack. Please let me know how it goes. My next project? Good question. So many ideas...I'll come up with something!