I know you make it look effortless but I can tell you spend a lot of time setting up your shots and making the video smooth. I am willing to bet you might even write a script. Great Job!
when I took off my transfer case I drilled a hunk of plywood and bolted it to the case and put it in the vice ,, but I was only cleaning it out and fixing oil leaks .. and yes they are very heavy .. I did my on the floor in my garage under my CJ7 ,, need to get a floor jack tranny jack so when I pull it again ..if it was a flat lift easy but it has to be at a angle ,, so a floor jack is hard to use .. Great video Paul .. thankyou for all the great info and tips
I've had similar issues pulling and installing transfer cases in the driveway. Got a bit smarter this last time. using a 10" 1x6, I screwed a vertical board on one side (catches the end of the TC) and a 2x4 laid flat screwed down on the other. The 2x4 is for the rise of the bottom. In other words, I built a cradle. Using a floor jack on the now-flat 1x6, I easily pulled the TC back and down. Granted, I still had to balance it. But it worked like a charm. May get a good center of gravity and find some way to screw the 1x6 to the floor jack. My days of dead-lifting transfer cases by myself have long passed.
Undeniably one of the best instructors on UA-cam for transmission work. I followed this video set for the Dana 300 in my Jeep Scrambler and it came out perfect. I appreciate your ability to articulate in detail to make this task a cinch. Thanks again, great work!
Love your work. Great description and methodology. Pulled my Scout Dana 300 yesterday and it's on the bench waiting. Without such a clear step-by-step walk through, I'd be much more apprehensive to my next few days. Thanks for sharing and putting the effort in!
Thanks Paul! I have an 84 jeep CJ7 with this exact transfer case. I followed your steps and it ended up coming out great! I can’t wait to see how it runs. Keep the good vids coming!
One of the best instructional and informative videos that I have watched on Utube. Great job! Getting ready to begin the rebuild and install for the Dana 300 in my IH 800A
New subscriber! Love your in-depth videos on the T5 trannys and the Dana 300 transfer case. I have an 83 CJ7 that I’m wanting to get them rebuilt. You make it look so simple. Thank you for taking the time to really make informative videos.
awesome video. you solved my PO installation errors they had shims in wrong place on output shaft between yoke and bearing. you showed me the shims go between the bearing and shoulder where it seats. makes perfect sense now. Thank you
Great video series. Already used your rebuild videos for my T176. Interesting thing here. I'm currently waiting for input shaft shims for my Dana 300. Looks like who ever was in my transfer case prior to me never put any shims on the input shaft assembly. I assembled mine and had .012-.013 of play. And they sent it that way.
That's cool with the 🥁 drumsticks on the spring ball shaft, I like to take them out to check condition of the balls and springs and any shimmys in there when you see rust on the shafts🦂✨🔧👯🍻🚮🌵🏜️
Thanks again, Paul, for letting me drop by your shop while you finished this transfer case. I hope I didn't get in your way. 😎 Another super job, Paul; I really enjoyed watching. Is the music at 40:00 and 48:00 from your group? It was a nice subtle touch and fit well.
Great video Paul, very informative. I'm currently in the process of putting a Scout D300 behind a T-19 wide ratio 4 speed, and the Scout Dana 300's are slightly different than the Jeep D300's. There's no dedicated input carrier, the drive gear is simply mounted to the output shaft of the transmission and bolted down, then mated with the transfer case. I'm a little worried as my drive gear got some bad rust on it over the years while it was sitting, and the teeth are somewhat pitted, and as far as I know, are pretty much "unobtanium". It took me four years of searching to find the one I did (my D300 came with a drive gear for an automatic tranny.) So I expect I'm stuck with using it. I did clean off the gears as much as I could, including using a bit of wet/dry sandpaper to get the worst of the pitting down. I figure I'll run it, and then change the oil after 100 miles or so to remove any impurities that may have worked loose.
Around 27-28 minutes, you cut out the cup bearing. Mine is stuck as well. I have mangled it a lot, but the outer ring is still stuck flush/tight to in inside of the shaft. What did you use to cut it? I've bent a few chizzles already. Great video, thanks!
Great vid!! Thank u!! Jus bought a 82 cj5, the forks r stuck, i took drain plate off and there was barely enough oil to lube teeth on gears, plus i found half of a very thin round metal shim or bearing seal. Cant find the other half, but, gears and everything looks great, despite the item. Magnetic drain plug had just a little bit of metal, minor, thoughts?
Fantastic video series, you have a great way of explaining, showing and executing this rebuild. Question from a novice: Is it OK to use anaerobic gel with gaskets? I have found discord on various websites. Some say it needs metal to metal and no air? Your opinion? Thank you
you can get Indian head shellac from auto zone for $4.99 (either locally or online). I prefer something far rarer called GM Gasket maker that's much more expensive (sadly) but i like to use for water jacket bolts that can leak. (Great music btw). Edit: For what it's worth, those of us who work on auto transmissions use the same lube. We use the blue for lubing and the green for holding spacers and such. We don't use the red or the yellow because if they leak you don't know if you have a leak (oil or transmission fluid) somewhere. :)
Hey Paul, great video ! I have a Dana 300 Transfer Case in my 1983 Jeep Scrambler CJ8 which I have already rebuilt. Do you recommend using a full synthetic oil in them { transfer cases } ? Im a Hugh fan of the Amsoil full synthetic's.
Seems like the input shaft shims are hit or miss , some have them some dont , i am replacing my input shaft due to spline damage, the old shaft had no shims, and 0.013 endplay , i am the original owner and nobody has ever been in the 300 before and only have 68k miles on it. With my new advance adapters shaft installed with a new bearing its 0.012 endplay , when questioned Advance adapter said it was good to go at 0.012 and they never shim there dana 300 inputs upon assembly . Any thoughts paul ? . Excellent video series by the way .
RTV doesn't cure internally. So if you are building a unit that is going to get installed and filled with oil in a few days or hours RTV can cause leaks
A. Regular, what does that mean? Anyway, while rebuilding my Dana 300 I discovered that the "end Cap" was broken. End cap is the term you used when referring to the part that slides over the rails and holds the rail seals in place. Is there a part number or another description? I can't find it on a parts diagram.
Hey Paul, where did you get the steel plug you put in the shift rail housing in place of the aluminum plug? Great videos by the way. I just completed my dana 300 and your videos were an awesome help..
I thought i needed more shims on the output, it took me a few tries to get the proper preload and nut torque spec, but it worked out eventually, maybe a race wasn't seated completely??
I stuck around and did a full watch on part 2. On my '84 Jeep CJ7 the transmission that is coupled to this Dana 300 transfer case the shift lever slips past the rails and pops out of place so it locks into 4th gear. I bought new retaining parts to hold the shift lever down better. but it still happens. Looking at the tang on the shift lever doesn't show any wear. Do I need to do some work on the rails? I think it is a Tremec T-176 if I am not mistaken
@@GearBoxVideo Thanks, I watched your Jeep T-176 video and think maybe I should inspect that one area you showed on the cover to see if that is worn. Seeing the cover on video helps put how it works int perspective.
Any idea why on a manual transmission the 1st and 2nd gears enter not so easily on cold days, like 0 C and when it warms up the gears enter smoothly? Bad syncros or is it the oil?
I have a 63 scout with 4cyl. How much power csbit handle? I like the 3shifter look, but more power is a must! I don't plan to have anything over 31" tires., probably 235-60- 15", or 30*9.5*15" I was thinking about swapping in a 2.8,3.1,3.4L gm v6 or maybe a 4 cyl from a S10, or maybe a 20R or 22R 4 cyl Toyota engine. It's not going to be a powerhouse. Just a bit more than the model T or A performance. It's slow as $%@#!!!! With the 1/2 of a v8 4cylinder! Great video!!
I'm having some trouble getting my shift rails back in to the shift forks they came out pretty rough and I cant get them to go in now I even took a fork out of the case and tried to get the rail in on the bench and it will not go in do these require some tapping or should they just slide in? Maybe polish them up alittle or heat the fork?
I think this is the transfer case used in my 1971 Bronco. If it is, I iteraly beat the Hell out of it off road and never had troubles with it. I ripped rear gears and fronts, but never this TC.
That anaerobic sealant that you use do you recommend using that on a differential cover vs gear oil gasget maker. I’ve normally used a perm attacks brand the gasket maker it to be the screen and the contents are gray
I don't think it matters much. Anaerobic would be used if you need to use it immediately. I always still use a gasket plus a thin coat of sealant on both sides.
OK thanks. I watched your video and did my first DANA 300 the past few nights. It came out great,you had a lot of good tips and I appreciate that. Also your video quality was excellent. Anyway, my jeep is back humming along. That’s the first time I worked with that anaerobic sealant and I really liked it.
Hey man, great videos and tips. If you or any of your viewers need any Dana 300 parts, I have a bunch of spare parts after my transfer case build. Hit me up and I’ll see if I still have it.
I really enjoyed part one, and have been looking forward to part two. Thank you for all the effort you put into your videos.
I know you make it look effortless but I can tell you spend a lot of time setting up your shots and making the video smooth. I am willing to bet you might even write a script. Great Job!
You are the best gearbox specelist in the world👍brilliant job 👌
You have a beautifully delicate touch on these things and amazing patience!
when I took off my transfer case I drilled a hunk of plywood and bolted it to the case and put it in the vice ,, but I was only cleaning it out and fixing oil leaks .. and yes they are very heavy .. I did my on the floor in my garage under my CJ7 ,, need to get a floor jack tranny jack so when I pull it again ..if it was a flat lift easy but it has to be at a angle ,, so a floor jack is hard to use .. Great video Paul .. thankyou for all the great info and tips
I've had similar issues pulling and installing transfer cases in the driveway. Got a bit smarter this last time. using a 10" 1x6, I screwed a vertical board on one side (catches the end of the TC) and a 2x4 laid flat screwed down on the other. The 2x4 is for the rise of the bottom. In other words, I built a cradle. Using a floor jack on the now-flat 1x6, I easily pulled the TC back and down. Granted, I still had to balance it. But it worked like a charm. May get a good center of gravity and find some way to screw the 1x6 to the floor jack. My days of dead-lifting transfer cases by myself have long passed.
Undeniably one of the best instructors on UA-cam for transmission work. I followed this video set for the Dana 300 in my Jeep Scrambler and it came out perfect. I appreciate your ability to articulate in detail to make this task a cinch. Thanks again, great work!
Appreciate the feedback.
Love your work. Great description and methodology. Pulled my Scout Dana 300 yesterday and it's on the bench waiting. Without such a clear step-by-step walk through, I'd be much more apprehensive to my next few days. Thanks for sharing and putting the effort in!
What an outstanding video. Clear concise explanations and the camera without in the right spot …beautiful! thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it!
All I got to say is this man here has helped me out alot by watching his videos and it has help me alot thanks
Thanks
Hey Paul, Another fine build. I enjoyed every minute. Thanks! Larry
Thanks Paul! I have an 84 jeep CJ7 with this exact transfer case. I followed your steps and it ended up coming out great! I can’t wait to see how it runs.
Keep the good vids coming!
One of the best instructional and informative videos that I have watched on Utube. Great job! Getting ready to begin the rebuild and install for the Dana 300 in my IH 800A
Awesome, thank you!
New subscriber! Love your in-depth videos on the T5 trannys and the Dana 300 transfer case. I have an 83 CJ7 that I’m wanting to get them rebuilt. You make it look so simple. Thank you for taking the time to really make informative videos.
Very nice video, well thought out, descriptive, helpful tips. I will be doing a Dana 300 very soon. Thank you
awesome video. you solved my PO installation errors they had shims in wrong place on output shaft between yoke and bearing. you showed me the shims go between the bearing and shoulder where it seats. makes perfect sense now. Thank you
Thanks for the upload, been following along with a build and the step by step process outlined in the video is very helpful
Thank you
Thank you very much for taking the time to make this video, appreciate it, well done.
Thanks for watching!
Great video series. Already used your rebuild videos for my T176. Interesting thing here. I'm currently waiting for input shaft shims for my Dana 300. Looks like who ever was in my transfer case prior to me never put any shims on the input shaft assembly. I assembled mine and had .012-.013 of play. And they sent it that way.
Same here… I found mine to have .020-.022 play with 0 shims in sight… wish the rebuild kit I got came with shims just waiting on them to arrive now.
Great video. It helped me in getting ready to tackle a NP-233 this spring. Thanks!
Just want to thank your for the video. Followed step by step….🤛
Great video Paul. Been looking forward to it.
Thanks Paul, another very nice gear box lesson.
Awesome video... Thanks for taking the time to make it!!!
Thank you
That's cool with the 🥁 drumsticks on the spring ball shaft, I like to take them out to check condition of the balls and springs and any shimmys in there when you see rust on the shafts🦂✨🔧👯🍻🚮🌵🏜️
Thanks again, Paul, for letting me drop by your shop while you finished this transfer case. I hope I didn't get in your way. 😎
Another super job, Paul; I really enjoyed watching.
Is the music at 40:00 and 48:00 from your group? It was a nice subtle touch and fit well.
Excellent video! Thanks a lot Paul.
Really enjoyed the video. As per FSM the Front/Rear Yoke Locknuts torque is 163 N'm (120 ft-Ibs). I think I heard you mention a much higher number.
Great video Paul, very informative. I'm currently in the process of putting a Scout D300 behind a T-19 wide ratio 4 speed, and the Scout Dana 300's are slightly different than the Jeep D300's. There's no dedicated input carrier, the drive gear is simply mounted to the output shaft of the transmission and bolted down, then mated with the transfer case.
I'm a little worried as my drive gear got some bad rust on it over the years while it was sitting, and the teeth are somewhat pitted, and as far as I know, are pretty much "unobtanium". It took me four years of searching to find the one I did (my D300 came with a drive gear for an automatic tranny.) So I expect I'm stuck with using it. I did clean off the gears as much as I could, including using a bit of wet/dry sandpaper to get the worst of the pitting down. I figure I'll run it, and then change the oil after 100 miles or so to remove any impurities that may have worked loose.
Have you tried Advance Adapters?
Paul you make it interesting.
Great Video! Thanks for the help!
No problem!
"Don't forget to wipe." Lol! Great videos. Thanks!
Great job Paul!!!
This was a great video, i learned a lot. Thanks
Lot's of experience with this guy. Great to watch.
This channel is just awesome
Shaft needle bearing had a small hole. Is that an oil holder needs to line up with a hole in the output shaft? Excellent video thank you
No not necessary
I like sanding down to o.d. of the old races to use them as a press tool for the new races.
Around 27-28 minutes, you cut out the cup bearing. Mine is stuck as well. I have mangled it a lot, but the outer ring is still stuck flush/tight to in inside of the shaft. What did you use to cut it? I've bent a few chizzles already. Great video, thanks!
I just used a flat head screwdriver
Great vid!! Thank u!! Jus bought a 82 cj5, the forks r stuck, i took drain plate off and there was barely enough oil to lube teeth on gears, plus i found half of a very thin round metal shim or bearing seal. Cant find the other half, but, gears and everything looks great, despite the item. Magnetic drain plug had just a little bit of metal, minor, thoughts?
If you want, send a picture of the parts that you found to my email address. All the info is in the video description
Fantastic video series, you have a great way of explaining, showing and executing this rebuild. Question from a novice: Is it OK to use anaerobic gel with gaskets? I have found discord on various websites. Some say it needs metal to metal and no air? Your opinion? Thank you
you can get Indian head shellac from auto zone for $4.99 (either locally or online). I prefer something far rarer called GM Gasket maker that's much more expensive (sadly) but i like to use for water jacket bolts that can leak. (Great music btw).
Edit: For what it's worth, those of us who work on auto transmissions use the same lube. We use the blue for lubing and the green for holding spacers and such. We don't use the red or the yellow because if they leak you don't know if you have a leak (oil or transmission fluid) somewhere. :)
Paul thank you
Nice!! Great video on a great case!!
Hey Paul, great video ! I have a Dana 300 Transfer Case in my 1983 Jeep Scrambler CJ8 which I have already rebuilt. Do you recommend using a full synthetic oil in them { transfer cases } ? Im a Hugh fan of the Amsoil full synthetic's.
Seems like the input shaft shims are hit or miss , some have them some dont , i am replacing my input shaft due to spline damage, the old shaft had no shims, and 0.013 endplay , i am the original owner and nobody has ever been in the 300 before and only have 68k miles on it. With my new advance adapters shaft installed with a new bearing its 0.012 endplay , when questioned Advance adapter said it was good to go at 0.012 and they never shim there dana 300 inputs upon assembly . Any thoughts paul ? . Excellent video series by the way .
You have probably covered this elsewhere but it seems you prefer anaerobic gel over RTV. Rationale? Thanks for the great videos
RTV doesn't cure internally. So if you are building a unit that is going to get installed and filled with oil in a few days or hours RTV can cause leaks
A. Regular, what does that mean? Anyway, while rebuilding my Dana 300 I discovered that the "end Cap" was broken. End cap is the term you used when referring to the part that slides over the rails and holds the rail seals in place. Is there a part number or another description? I can't find it on a parts diagram.
Hey Paul, where did you get the steel plug you put in the shift rail housing in place of the aluminum plug? Great videos by the way. I just completed my dana 300 and your videos were an awesome help..
Thanks. The plugs are available on my website's store at www.5speeds.com/cart
gracias !
Very well made video. Very informative. Thank you for making.
Muy bueno maestro. Gracias
I thought i needed more shims on the output, it took me a few tries to get the proper preload and nut torque spec, but it worked out eventually, maybe a race wasn't seated completely??
Yes
How did you get the tail shaft back apart (around minute 27:00)? Did you press against the big gear in a press and push the shaft through?
I stuck around and did a full watch on part 2. On my '84 Jeep CJ7 the transmission that is coupled to this Dana 300 transfer case the shift lever slips past the rails and pops out of place so it locks into 4th gear. I bought new retaining parts to hold the shift lever down better. but it still happens. Looking at the tang on the shift lever doesn't show any wear. Do I need to do some work on the rails? I think it is a Tremec T-176 if I am not mistaken
I know this is a common issue and some people add washers under the detent spring to give them a more positive feel.
@@GearBoxVideo Thanks, I watched your Jeep T-176 video and think maybe I should inspect that one area you showed on the cover to see if that is worn. Seeing the cover on video helps put how it works int perspective.
Any idea why on a manual transmission the 1st and 2nd gears enter not so easily on cold days, like 0 C and when it warms up the gears enter smoothly?
Bad syncros or is it the oil?
I have a 63 scout with 4cyl. How much power csbit handle? I like the 3shifter look, but more power is a must! I don't plan to have anything over 31" tires., probably 235-60- 15", or 30*9.5*15" I was thinking about swapping in a 2.8,3.1,3.4L gm v6 or maybe a 4 cyl from a S10, or maybe a 20R or 22R 4 cyl Toyota engine. It's not going to be a powerhouse. Just a bit more than the model T or A performance. It's slow as $%@#!!!! With the 1/2 of a v8 4cylinder! Great video!!
The output shafts can snap. Advance adapters makes a HD output shaft and housing kit
Frank Saliba love your video on the dana 300 transfer case, can you please do one on the ford T18 transmission in my jeep.
Ship it to me. I have none here
I'm having some trouble getting my shift rails back in to the shift forks they came out pretty rough and I cant get them to go in now I even took a fork out of the case and tried to get the rail in on the bench and it will not go in do these require some tapping or should they just slide in? Maybe polish them up alittle or heat the fork?
Clean the rail up and take notice of high spots. Do not heat anything. Think it thru
Video so long but very good. I like
You cannot leanr how to build a transfer case in 15 minutes. Glad you took the time to watch it. Thanks
did you have any problems getting out the second shift rail?
No..have you watched the video?
yes!
I think this is the transfer case used in my 1971 Bronco. If it is, I iteraly beat the Hell out of it off road and never had troubles with it. I ripped rear gears and fronts, but never this TC.
Big issue is snapping output shafts
what torque did you have the yoke nuts set to? I can not seem to find a consistant number on the internet and was wondering if you knew?
Go to 25 mins into
@@GearBoxVideo Thank you so much, I skipped past that part thinking it would be in final assembly
Problem is everyone skips and you end up not getting the details.
I’m missing the thrust washer on the output shaft. Do you know where I can find one or if you can give me the dimensions I can get one made. Thanks
Dont have any
What rebuild kit did you use for all this? Advance adapters?
We make our own kits up and they are available on our website store. www.5speeds.com/cart
Liked, and subbed
Nice job, thank you for sharing
That anaerobic sealant that you use do you recommend using that on a differential cover vs gear oil gasget maker. I’ve normally used a perm attacks brand the gasket maker it to be the screen and the contents are gray
I don't think it matters much. Anaerobic would be used if you need to use it immediately. I always still use a gasket plus a thin coat of sealant on both sides.
OK thanks. I watched your video and did my first DANA 300 the past few nights. It came out great,you had a lot of good tips and I appreciate that. Also your video quality was excellent. Anyway, my jeep is back humming along. That’s the first time I worked with that anaerobic sealant and I really liked it.
I gotta rebuild mine, it actually has over a million miles on it
Awesome
profi robota
pokazałbyś jak naprawić mechaniczne uszkodzenie wałka
hello
in 11:20 minute you use main bearing for front shaft.
can you tell me cast number? i need to buy it from shop.
If I still had it in the shop I could tell you. The trans and parts are long gone.
Would have a Dana 300 Shift Rail Seal Retainer for sale ?
Nope. Try eBay
Thank you for this upload , god bless
🙂
Need a book or video for subaru sti 6 speed
Purchase an overhaul manual for your vehicle from Subaru. Or search online for one.
Watching this with the intention to go to a Novak twin stick, or possibly the single stick all mode modification.
What size is that magnetic fill plug?
1/2 npt
Good video sar
So.... are you a drummer as well?
yes
Hey man, great videos and tips. If you or any of your viewers need any Dana 300 parts, I have a bunch of spare parts after my transfer case build. Hit me up and I’ll see if I still have it.
When do you think you're going to be able to rebuild Transmissions four and old disabled vet
I am not rebuilding transmissions at the present time.
Could a guy boil the bearing in water at 212 degrees F and drop 'em on? Then spray with WD-40 to cool off and displace water? Anyone ever try that?
By the time your spray the wd40 on the bearing it will cool it down. Plus you risk water contamination. WD will not fully displace water
You have a buzzing coming from your camera 7:21
If you listen closely, it's actually Alien cross talk ;)
Its the wireless mic. Well aware of it. Needed to change the channel.
👍🛠🔟👏👏👏🇧🇷