I have the same HF saw. Your comments regarding its short falls are spot on. We have a lot of winter left, I'll use your video to guide me on upgrading my saw. Thanks!
*Making a hardwood fence for the miter makes all the difference **MyBest.Tools** Tune the saw with a combination square. Adjust the laser so its in line. See the photos.Every part in this saw is adjustable.*
Hey Phil, I recreated your stand! I'm just waiting for the paint to dry before I put the wheels on and call it good. It took me about a week to make it. Lesson's learned: 1) I made my handle about 6 in. shorter than yours which may have been a mistake as it's heavy to move, 2) the 6 tabs were difficult to access with my gun so next time I'd put them on the outside, 3) next time I might save some floorspace by making the angles a little tighter - instead of 15 deg. I'd try 10-12. Wish I could post a pic!
Thanks! This series is an awesome demonstration of making a tool much more useful and user friendly. It's easy to see you know your metal work. Impressive.
I just bought this exact saw yesterday, Set it up today, made some cuts, some adjustments and have to say, I really like the saw. The stand not so much. Thanks for the video, and the instructions for my next project. Great job Phil!
I made a 10" separate stand and bolted it to the original stand. Now the working height of the original stand is less back breaking. Worked great and I made a second shelf to hold some additional band saw items. This also made the saw more rigid. Thanks for the ideas and motivation. Take care!
Hi Phil. I used your design 2 years ago to build my own version. It's been terrific. Last year I bought a 2nd saw and just finished making a stand for it as-well. I changed a few things this go-around. I put locking 4 in. casters on all four legs because my shop has a fairly smooth floor. I put twin bars up high to support a debris pan and twin below to support a shelf using expanded metal. Lesson-learned: i should have welded the expanded metal under the bars instead of on top so the bars would function as a lip to keep my band saw lubricant from rolling off. Finally, I canted the legs under the motor out longitudinally 12 deg instead of 15 and it's still very stable. It's still your basic design though. Thanks again.
Awesome! It's great to read about your modifications and ideas. Some day, when I have a smooth floor, I would like to start putting castors on my stands and some tables. Thank you for the update John.
Nice build. Look forward to seeing what you build next. In regards to the vent holes. In my experience (ship repair), we typically want to seal up all the tubes to prevent corrosion. If it is sealed tight then the inside will rust until there is no more oxygen available and then stop rusting. My assumption is the vent holes between tubes on the bicycle would be for venting during welding. I've experienced myself when there isn't a vent hole on the tube it will blow the weld puddle out when you wrap the last part of the end.
Thank you. If I were more confident in my welds not having pin holes or if the cheap paint I use was much better at sealing those holes then I would have skipped the drain/vent holes. When the tubing cools from the heat of the day during the evening, the air inside it contracts which draws in outside air though the pinholes. It gets fairly humid where I live and this moisture condenses inside the tube when the walls of the tubing fall below the dew point temperature. The pinholes aren't big enough to vent all the moist air in the tube as it evaporates off the tube walls later that evening or next day. So the moisture level in the tube will usually just get higher and higher. I thought drilling holes would be easier than sealing the welds, but in retrospect, brushing the welds with some thick paint to seal them before spraying may have been easier. Perhaps a marine grade paint could have saved me some time. Thanks for the info
Slick! I mounted my saw to the top of standard 2-drawer deep filing cabinet and then mounted the cabinet to a 4-wheel dolly. It was quick and dirty way to get a portable saw at a comfy working height. Your stand is far superior though. Keep it up with the videos...love your no BS style.
Hey man you did a awesome job on that. It is what I have been looking for to do to mine. I really like the way you showed all the sizes and cuts and you were very clear in the way you explained. I give you 👍🏻👍🏻 thank you.
Hi Phil Thank you for the video. Started cutting material today to make the stand. I think this has to be the best designed stand and improvement I have seen for the 4x6 bandsaw.
I just bought this saw for a project and ran into the same issues you discovered. I will use your ideas to fix mine as well. Great little saw for the money. I added a lube stick with a magnet taped to it to hold it in front of the cut. Should extend the life of the new bimetal blade i installed.
This design/build is one of the coolest things I've ever seen. Hopefully I can get the saw on sale in the next month or so. The old 20% off coupons are no more. But you can bet, my first project will be this base!! Phil, thanks for this vid!!!
Sweet! I would have had to make the saw lower because I'm only 24" tall. Just kidding. Having had back problems in the past I can see why it would get old having to bend over. Really cool build.
Wow - super nice design. Thanks for sharing. 1st video I’ve had the please to watch of yours. You’re content definitely deserves a subscription and bell. Now off to some binge watching of the rest of your content. 👍👍😎👍👍
Yes, and I would give the new saw a thorough inspection before assembly. I waited to build the stand until that particular saw proved to be reliable enough for me and would do the same with the new saw.
Hey Phil, I'm going to make this stand, just one question. You think I could get away with 1" square tubing? I've got like 50ft of it laying around and no 1 1/4". I'm just not sure about the stability.
Fantastic video. Just a couple of comments: it would have been clearer if you showed the final result at the beginning and then the procedure to make it. For the most part of the video I had to try to guess how it would look. Now that I watched it until the end it's clear but I have to watch the video again 😅. Also I really do not like the bolt at 17:56. I'd cut out a brand new piece with a bolt hole and weld it. The rest is absolutely fantastic. Can't wait for part 8, when will it be out? Will you also add a coolant system? I am still waiting for a coupon to buy this band saw at HF.
Thank you. I really like your idea to show the final result at the beginning, before the build. I'm going to do that from now on. The 5/16" miter bolt is temporary because I now believe it needs to be 3/8" which I'll change in an upcoming video. Drilling a hole for the bolt in that piece would be a nice touch. Maybe cut a triangle and drill it for the bolt. Part 8 may take at least a month to post because I need to finish a video about my homemade duct whips for cleaning ductwork first. Doubt that I'll be adding a coolant system anytime soon since small tubing is pretty much all I cut. But someday I might install that upgrade. If I add a coolant system to the saw, I'll post a video about it. Thank you for the advice
Great job on the video , I'm not sure if you realize the reasoning behind drilling holes in the tubes , the holes are drilled to release the pressure of the expanding air from the heat of welding, what happens when you don't drill the tubes the weld will blow out at the end because of the heated and expanding air , when your done with welding you can fill in the holes with a spot weld , sorry I'm not criticing your video but I wasn't sure if you knew why the holes were drill otherwise great video I'm following your build 👍👍👍👍
Thank you. I knew that and felt pretty silly after I welded it. But there is also another reason why the weldiment needs holes and that's to drain/vent any moisture that condenses inside the tubing at night. During the transition from day to night, humid air can get drawn-in through pin holes and condense inside the tubing. Those pinholes in the welds won't be big enough to vent the moisture when it evaporates the next day. The process can repeat and get worse. If I lived in a dry climate I don't think it would be a problem, or if I had a climate-controlled shop. Or if I trusted my welds to be completely sealed.
Great build, and modeling this up in sketchup. What did the worksurface height end up being when you were done (since you added those extra leg lengths)?
Thanks for the detailed explanations. And for the series in general. That’s look great. I will definitely try to make the stand. Does the measurements of the legs in the beginning of the video are updated measurements because you added several inches in the end of the build?
This video, as all your bandsaw videos is excellent! Well done explanations. Why do you have only one foot adjustable, why not two or all four. Doesn't that make it off balance?
Thank you. The reason why I made only one foot adjustable is because I can usually get 3 of the legs on a level surface pretty easily, but not the 4th. My garage floor is pretty bad.
While I agree you’ve made a great quality and over built stand I fail to see the benefit of doubling its weight and still not having a flood pan so you can run an active coolant system to get longer blade life
Thank you. No coolant needed for what I use it for. Blade rarely gets too hot to touch so I know it's not getting anywhere close to the critical temperature. I bought an extra blade along with the saw several years ago. Both it and the factory blade still cut fine because I sorta baby them and I don't use the saw enough to wear them out. I once earned a living as a metal fabricator but now I'm just a weekend warrior. For my needs, a coolant system would be impractical, but for others it may be needed. Especially if their blades are getting really hot.
I have the same HF saw. Your comments regarding its short falls are spot on. We have a lot of winter left, I'll use your video to guide me on upgrading my saw. Thanks!
It's a good indoor project for winter. Thanks for stopping by.
*Making a hardwood fence for the miter makes all the difference **MyBest.Tools** Tune the saw with a combination square. Adjust the laser so its in line. See the photos.Every part in this saw is adjustable.*
Yes, the saw can be adjusted to cut 45 degree angles.
This is the best designed stand I have seen.
Great work, and thanks for not putting music in your videos.
Thank you
This is a great upgrade from the factory. When i buy my bandsaw i think i will match my existing saw horse for height. Nice video! Thanks for sharing!
Thank you
Quality build! Those hf bandsaws are surprisingly good when you ignore how crappy the base is
Thank you
Hey Phil, I recreated your stand! I'm just waiting for the paint to dry before I put the wheels on and call it good. It took me about a week to make it. Lesson's learned: 1) I made my handle about 6 in. shorter than yours which may have been a mistake as it's heavy to move, 2) the 6 tabs were difficult to access with my gun so next time I'd put them on the outside, 3) next time I might save some floorspace by making the angles a little tighter - instead of 15 deg. I'd try 10-12. Wish I could post a pic!
Cool man, I'm happy to hear about your successful build. Thank you for sharing your thoughts and experience with the project.
Phil, I've really enjoyed your style of covering the mod with a narrative sound. Great series regarding the upgrades to this saw. Thanks!
Thank you.
Thanks! This series is an awesome demonstration of making a tool much more useful and user friendly. It's easy to see you know your metal work. Impressive.
Thank you
I was literally making my own stand for this saw when I came across this video, you gave me some great ideas to improve my design. Thanks so much!
I just bought this exact saw yesterday, Set it up today, made some cuts, some adjustments and have to say, I really like the saw. The stand not so much. Thanks for the video, and the instructions for my next project. Great job Phil!
I made a 10" separate stand and bolted it to the original stand. Now the working height of the original stand is less back breaking. Worked great and I made a second shelf to hold some additional band saw items. This also made the saw more rigid. Thanks for the ideas and motivation. Take care!
Cool idea. Thank you
Hi Phil. I used your design 2 years ago to build my own version. It's been terrific. Last year I bought a 2nd saw and just finished making a stand for it as-well. I changed a few things this go-around. I put locking 4 in. casters on all four legs because my shop has a fairly smooth floor. I put twin bars up high to support a debris pan and twin below to support a shelf using expanded metal. Lesson-learned: i should have welded the expanded metal under the bars instead of on top so the bars would function as a lip to keep my band saw lubricant from rolling off. Finally, I canted the legs under the motor out longitudinally 12 deg instead of 15 and it's still very stable. It's still your basic design though. Thanks again.
Awesome! It's great to read about your modifications and ideas. Some day, when I have a smooth floor, I would like to start putting castors on my stands and some tables. Thank you for the update John.
Best stand I’ve seen Built yet you can’t buy quality like that. Nice work!
Thank you
Nice build. Look forward to seeing what you build next.
In regards to the vent holes. In my experience (ship repair), we typically want to seal up all the tubes to prevent corrosion. If it is sealed tight then the inside will rust until there is no more oxygen available and then stop rusting. My assumption is the vent holes between tubes on the bicycle would be for venting during welding. I've experienced myself when there isn't a vent hole on the tube it will blow the weld puddle out when you wrap the last part of the end.
Thank you. If I were more confident in my welds not having pin holes or if the cheap paint I use was much better at sealing those holes then I would have skipped the drain/vent holes. When the tubing cools from the heat of the day during the evening, the air inside it contracts which draws in outside air though the pinholes. It gets fairly humid where I live and this moisture condenses inside the tube when the walls of the tubing fall below the dew point temperature. The pinholes aren't big enough to vent all the moist air in the tube as it evaporates off the tube walls later that evening or next day. So the moisture level in the tube will usually just get higher and higher. I thought drilling holes would be easier than sealing the welds, but in retrospect, brushing the welds with some thick paint to seal them before spraying may have been easier. Perhaps a marine grade paint could have saved me some time. Thanks for the info
Slick! I mounted my saw to the top of standard 2-drawer deep filing cabinet and then mounted the cabinet to a 4-wheel dolly. It was quick and dirty way to get a portable saw at a comfy working height. Your stand is far superior though. Keep it up with the videos...love your no BS style.
Hey man you did a awesome job on that. It is what I have been looking for to do to mine. I really like the way you showed all the sizes and cuts and you were very clear in the way you explained. I give you 👍🏻👍🏻 thank you.
Thanks man
Thank you for the vid's, great to see the mods to make a cheaper saw very useful.
I’m getting one soon.. I will be using your videos to modify it. Awesome work 👍
Thank you
Hi Phil
Thank you for the video.
Started cutting material today to make the stand. I think this has to be the best designed stand and improvement I have seen for the 4x6 bandsaw.
Thank you
@@BudgetPhil
Got the base finished and painted very pleased with the result. Great design and simple to build.
Awesome! Congratulations on your successful build.
Nicely done! Fixed the #1 flaw in those lil bandsaws, the cheapa- stand, way to go💯
Thank you
Very nice build Phil. I don't own the HF band saw yet, but when I do I'll build a stand in reference to yours. Thanks for a very informative video.
Thank you
I've been waiting for part 7 so much!!! Thanks for the upload.
Thanks man
I just bought this saw for a project and ran into the same issues you discovered. I will use your ideas to fix mine as well. Great little saw for the money. I added a lube stick with a magnet taped to it to hold it in front of the cut. Should extend the life of the new bimetal blade i installed.
Well done, sir. Excellent design and fabrication.
Thank you
This design/build is one of the coolest things I've ever seen. Hopefully I can get the saw on sale in the next month or so. The old 20% off coupons are no more. But you can bet, my first project will be this base!! Phil, thanks for this vid!!!
Excellent video and nice work !
Thank you
I love your videos owned mine for many years and just felt with the problems. Keep up the good work!
Thank you
Great job 😊
Very nice solid stand!
Thank you
Great design and Tutorial! Thank You!
Thank you
very nice quality build brother BILL
Thank you
Nice fab work!
Thank you
Impessive design and great video , I hope to make a very similar version in the near futre , thank you for the great explanations.
Thank you
SOoooo much nicer; great work!
Thank you!
Sweet! I would have had to make the saw lower because I'm only 24" tall. Just kidding. Having had back problems in the past I can see why it would get old having to bend over. Really cool build.
Thank you. Seems like the older I get the less my body wants to bend.
Nicely done Phil
Thank you
very smart. i love the bolt fixation hack - totally stealing this :D
Thank you
Excellent work. I’m gonna have to use your design. You could totally sell these. I’d buy one
Thank you
Great job. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you
Wow - super nice design. Thanks for sharing. 1st video I’ve had the please to watch of yours. You’re content definitely deserves a subscription and bell. Now off to some binge watching of the rest of your content. 👍👍😎👍👍
Thank you
Very well done -- Thanks!
awesome job
Thank you
You have put so much time into making this tool better.
I am curious if you would choose the same saw again if this one was swept away by fate?
Yes, and I would give the new saw a thorough inspection before assembly. I waited to build the stand until that particular saw proved to be reliable enough for me and would do the same with the new saw.
Very nice!
Thank you
Well done.
Thank you
Hey Phil,
I'm going to make this stand, just one question. You think I could get away with 1" square tubing? I've got like 50ft of it laying around and no 1 1/4". I'm just not sure about the stability.
Excellent
Thank you
Fantastic video. Just a couple of comments: it would have been clearer if you showed the final result at the beginning and then the procedure to make it. For the most part of the video I had to try to guess how it would look. Now that I watched it until the end it's clear but I have to watch the video again 😅.
Also I really do not like the bolt at 17:56. I'd cut out a brand new piece with a bolt hole and weld it. The rest is absolutely fantastic. Can't wait for part 8, when will it be out? Will you also add a coolant system? I am still waiting for a coupon to buy this band saw at HF.
Thank you. I really like your idea to show the final result at the beginning, before the build. I'm going to do that from now on. The 5/16" miter bolt is temporary because I now believe it needs to be 3/8" which I'll change in an upcoming video. Drilling a hole for the bolt in that piece would be a nice touch. Maybe cut a triangle and drill it for the bolt. Part 8 may take at least a month to post because I need to finish a video about my homemade duct whips for cleaning ductwork first. Doubt that I'll be adding a coolant system anytime soon since small tubing is pretty much all I cut. But someday I might install that upgrade. If I add a coolant system to the saw, I'll post a video about it. Thank you for the advice
Great job on the video , I'm not sure if you realize the reasoning behind drilling holes in the tubes , the holes are drilled to release the pressure of the expanding air from the heat of welding, what happens when you don't drill the tubes the weld will blow out at the end because of the heated and expanding air , when your done with welding you can fill in the holes with a spot weld , sorry I'm not criticing your video but I wasn't sure if you knew why the holes were drill otherwise great video I'm following your build 👍👍👍👍
Thank you. I knew that and felt pretty silly after I welded it. But there is also another reason why the weldiment needs holes and that's to drain/vent any moisture that condenses inside the tubing at night. During the transition from day to night, humid air can get drawn-in through pin holes and condense inside the tubing. Those pinholes in the welds won't be big enough to vent the moisture when it evaporates the next day. The process can repeat and get worse. If I lived in a dry climate I don't think it would be a problem, or if I had a climate-controlled shop. Or if I trusted my welds to be completely sealed.
This is a great build! Where can I find the plans for this?
Thank you. I haven't drawn up any plans for it yet.
Hey bud, great vid. I don't suppose you have a materials take off on the total footage of tubing you used? I believe I'm going to build mine
Thank you. I believe it took me about 26 feet of 1.5 inch, 14 gauge, steel square tubing to complete this project.
Great Mod..
Thank you
Lower Longitudinal Member.... LMAO good one.
Great build, and modeling this up in sketchup. What did the worksurface height end up being when you were done (since you added those extra leg lengths)?
Thank you. The height of the work surface ended up being 31 inches.
Thanks for the detailed explanations. And for the series in general. That’s look great.
I will definitely try to make the stand.
Does the measurements of the legs in the beginning of the video are updated measurements because you added several inches in the end of the build?
Thank you. Yes, those dimensions were updated. All the measurements in the video are of the finalized design.
Congratulations you made me buy a bunch of stand material 😂
17:36 will part 10 of this series take care of that bolt? Or, have you solved in a different way? Thanks!!!
Yes, I plan to fix that problem in part 10. I'll probably use one of the 3/8 inch bolts I already have.
@@BudgetPhil can't wait for the next episodes!
Genius
Thank you
How did you grind the saw base flat? Laying the saw on its side?
Yes, I just put the saw body on the work bench and layed it on it's side. A couple of wood blocks helped to stabilize it
This video, as all your bandsaw videos is excellent! Well done explanations.
Why do you have only one foot adjustable, why not two or all four. Doesn't that make it off balance?
Thank you. The reason why I made only one foot adjustable is because I can usually get 3 of the legs on a level surface pretty easily, but not the 4th. My garage floor is pretty bad.
Why didn't you use the saw to cut the bolt?
Force of habit. I should have used the band saw.
Lets go part 8!
It's on the way
Great video..... kinda depressing to listen too 😆
Thank you. Yeah, I need to work on my narration style. And a few other things as well.
Damn!!!!!
Thank you
nice build! just bought this saw and the stand is a POS =/
Thank you
While I agree you’ve made a great quality and over built stand I fail to see the benefit of doubling its weight and still not having a flood pan so you can run an active coolant system to get longer blade life
Thank you. No coolant needed for what I use it for. Blade rarely gets too hot to touch so I know it's not getting anywhere close to the critical temperature. I bought an extra blade along with the saw several years ago. Both it and the factory blade still cut fine because I sorta baby them and I don't use the saw enough to wear them out. I once earned a living as a metal fabricator but now I'm just a weekend warrior. For my needs, a coolant system would be impractical, but for others it may be needed. Especially if their blades are getting really hot.