Hello Mike, I'm planning on building a pole barn structure 105 feet long. The spray foam guy I had quoted the project highly recommends open cell. His reasoning is that the metal building will expand and contract with weather conditions causing the harder closed cell foam to possibly break loose from the metal somewhere or cause the metal to "oil Can" or warp up due to not being able to expand? Have you had any long metal buildings give you any problems?
This guy better get educated. Closed cell foam does not break free unless it was put on wrong in the first place. Second you can oil can with open cell just the same. It is heat versus the thickness of the metal. There are ways to over come that..
Yeah. The peeps here in Missouri think that open cell is the way to go. Got a quote to do my new house and the close cell was twice as expensive for the same R value as open cell.
We live in Canada. We had our attic interior roof spray foamed as in this video 14 years ago. We had a new roof covering put in at the same time. We now have extensive ridge board and rafter rot. To do over, I would not have spray foamed the underside of the roof. The moisture is trapped at the highest part of the house envelope.
@@SprayJones we had 6 inches of closed cell spray foam between the rafters and half an inch on the rafter side facing the inside of the attic. The roof was new with asphalt shingles. We did a leak test from the outside with no leaking observed. Could the water vapour have been absorbed through the rafter ends where there is little insulation ? Where does all that humid air / water vapour escape to ? Surely it can’t be a coincidence that the rafters are rotting ….
It’s call ping pong water, Joe stuebrich, you should have put a vapor open roof membrane at the last 3 feet of the roof leading to the ridge with a ridge vent.
Thank you for the info you have posted... its been a good help. We have a machine for spraying. Do you have any video with gun and machine setup. and explaining the different mixing chambers?
Oklahoma has an R value of R38 at the deck or attic. I’m doing an unvented attic. I’m using 6” ceiling rafters, so a 5.5” cavity. Is 5.5” of open cell sufficient at the deck?
Mike, I believe you have used that same footage of spraying the exterior basement wall (at 2:45) before. It made me angry before and it angers me now. As a guy who was in the construction industry for 45 years, in high end residential construction for 30 years, and who started his career as a grunt in basement waterproofing, I can’t understand why you would spray insulation on a wall where it is obstructed by dirt that has fallen down in the hole against the wall and on top of the footing. I believe a client is much better served by an exterior spray-on elastomeric waterproofing membrane and rigid exterior sheet insulation and closed cell foam sprayed on the inside of the wall. The builder should have made sure that any caved-in material was removed prior to you arriving on site and your applicator should have called you immediately and not started the work. It is too expensive to fix leaky basements after they are backfilled.
45 years... the client needed insulation for a parkade, to membrane and rigid those walls would be weeks of work, we did it in 3 days. The wall was on piles which meant that we did not need to go further down as we were deeper than where the slab was being poured on the inside. They choose what they wanted done and where to stop and start, otherwise they would have done additional excavation. One would maybe know that after 45 years...
I shouldn’t have commented, not knowing the details of the wall construction. My apologies. I am an advocate for closed cell foam, enjoy your channel and have learned from your videos.
Hello there, I am thinking of buying a home that states it has spray foam insulation in the attic. I am in Edmonton Alberta and we have very hot summers and very cold winters. Is there any precaution I can take to insure foam was installed properly prior to me making the plunge and purchasing the home. I am worried a simple home inspection will not catch issues properly. Any help would be much appreciated.
love the spray foam...but its gotta be soooo expensive to do all this spray foaming. I'm looking at building a house 1,800sqft and it's $250 bucks a sqft which makes a small home $450k. just crazy expensive for shit these days.
Hello Mike, I'm planning on building a pole barn structure 105 feet long. The spray foam guy I had quoted the project highly recommends open cell. His reasoning is that the metal building will expand and contract with weather conditions causing the harder closed cell foam to possibly break loose from the metal somewhere or cause the metal to "oil Can" or warp up due to not being able to expand? Have you had any long metal buildings give you any problems?
This guy better get educated. Closed cell foam does not break free unless it was put on wrong in the first place.
Second you can oil can with open cell just the same. It is heat versus the thickness of the metal. There are ways to over come that..
What such good info, wish the places in missouri had 25% of your info
Some may be able to be helped with what will be coming...
@@SprayJones that would be a good thing!!!
Yeah. The peeps here in Missouri think that open cell is the way to go. Got a quote to do my new house and the close cell was twice as expensive for the same R value as open cell.
Open isnt isn't bad, it works good 2!!
They both have thier place, it's just that closed cell is better(or the only option) in more places
We live in Canada. We had our attic interior roof spray foamed as in this video 14 years ago. We had a new roof covering put in at the same time. We now have extensive ridge board and rafter rot. To do over, I would not have spray foamed the underside of the roof. The moisture is trapped at the highest part of the house envelope.
Is your roof asphalt or metal?
@@dahsk7872 asphalt
What foam did you install? How thick? What was the roof condition before install?
@@SprayJones we had 6 inches of closed cell spray foam between the rafters and half an inch on the rafter side facing the inside of the attic. The roof was new with asphalt shingles. We did a leak test from the outside with no leaking observed. Could the water vapour have been absorbed through the rafter ends where there is little insulation ? Where does all that humid air / water vapour escape to ? Surely it can’t be a coincidence that the rafters are rotting ….
It’s call ping pong water, Joe stuebrich, you should have put a vapor open roof membrane at the last 3 feet of the roof leading to the ridge with a ridge vent.
Thank you for the info you have posted... its been a good help. We have a machine for spraying. Do you have any video with gun and machine setup. and explaining the different mixing chambers?
Not yet.
Oklahoma has an R value of R38 at the deck or attic. I’m doing an unvented attic. I’m using 6” ceiling rafters, so a 5.5” cavity. Is 5.5” of open cell sufficient at the deck?
No
Good series
Mike, I believe you have used that same footage of spraying the exterior basement wall (at 2:45) before. It made me angry before and it angers me now. As a guy who was in the construction industry for 45 years, in high end residential construction for 30 years, and who started his career as a grunt in basement waterproofing, I can’t understand why you would spray insulation on a wall where it is obstructed by dirt that has fallen down in the hole against the wall and on top of the footing. I believe a client is much better served by an exterior spray-on elastomeric waterproofing membrane and rigid exterior sheet insulation and closed cell foam sprayed on the inside of the wall. The builder should have made sure that any caved-in material was removed prior to you arriving on site and your applicator should have called you immediately and not started the work. It is too expensive to fix leaky basements after they are backfilled.
45 years... the client needed insulation for a parkade, to membrane and rigid those walls would be weeks of work, we did it in 3 days. The wall was on piles which meant that we did not need to go further down as we were deeper than where the slab was being poured on the inside. They choose what they wanted done and where to stop and start, otherwise they would have done additional excavation.
One would maybe know that after 45 years...
I shouldn’t have commented, not knowing the details of the wall construction. My apologies. I am an advocate for closed cell foam, enjoy your channel and have learned from your videos.
@@derekvanderhoop6550 It's alright, I get constant haters on this channel. Most I just delete now and don't reply.
Hello there,
I am thinking of buying a home that states it has spray foam insulation in the attic. I am in Edmonton Alberta and we have very hot summers and very cold winters. Is there any precaution I can take to insure foam was installed properly prior to me making the plunge and purchasing the home. I am worried a simple home inspection will not catch issues properly.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Phone around and find an inspection company that is familiar with SPF and have them inspect it for you.
love the spray foam...but its gotta be soooo expensive to do all this spray foaming. I'm looking at building a house 1,800sqft and it's $250 bucks a sqft which makes a small home $450k. just crazy expensive for shit these days.
I know people who would instantly sign a deal at those numbers.
When people talk to me about building I tell them that the roof is your first line of defense, do it right in the first place.
Yup, and muti-layers of protection... stop the water at the outside not figure out where it is coming from inside..