Something to consider with age of your boat. Make sure your Mercathode system is functioning properly. First make sure you are getting 12V to your Mercathode. If that's OK next is to check how many milliamps it's putting out. You will need a special probe and multi meter. Mercathode System Testing: When the boat is in the water, disconnect the orange wire that comes from the anode at the mercathode controller. Set the digital reader to show milliamps. Connect the black meter lead to the terminal on the controller. Connect the red meter lead to the end of orange wire. See what range its reading. Depending on the reading you may find that you need a new unit. My boat is on its second one in 23 years and last year it was reading on the low end normal. Mechanics will replace it this Spring. If you don't have the extra "puck" electrodes added to the transom on either side of the transom assembly. Highly recommended especially in you keep your bost in the water. Make sure all bonding straps are attached and in good condition.
Hi Mark! Super GREAT Information! Thanks so much! Hope you & Family are doing Great! This is the first time in the 18 years I owned this boat that this is happening. Thanks Bro! Peace!
Guys, it is extremely important that the areas are carefully fresh water washed to remove all the chlorides before you paint. Furthermore, using a wire brush is okay to remove some of the peeling paint, but prior to painting, you need to use a coarse sandpaper in order you make an anchor pattern in the substrate for the paint to have a good adhesion. When priming it could be a good idea to use an epoxy primer before you apply the finish paint. Remember to respect the minimum over-coating intervals between each coat and of course the minimum immersion time after final coat.
I just want to chime in as someone who has worked with paints for 25 years. If you're going to tackle this project the right way, so you don't have to worry about it for another 10 years, here's what you need to do: AVOID spray can primers such as enamel, it's pointless. Enamel primers are porous, even 2k urethane primers are porous, and you're just going to let salt water soak right through, all you need is one pinhole. 1. COMPLETELY remove the old paint 2. Prep the metal and leave it with a 180-220 scratch Then, use a two part EPOXY PRIMER. Spray max makes these available in a spray can now Epoxy primer is non permeable and it's literally spray-on glue You want two medium wet coats, then wait a few hrs or even the next day and apply two more medium wet coats Wait about 15 mins or so after the last two coats and apply your base color over the uncured epoxy. This ensures a chemical bond between the epoxy and the base color Wait a fill day to gas out then Clear coat with whatever you want, awlgrip 2k clear, spray can clear ...It doesn't matter. What matters is the substrate applied over the bare metal You a want 2 Part epoxy primer or you're wasting your time.
I noticed the quality job taping off the power tilt rods. I just got my outdrive painted by a "professional" who spraypainted the rods... i thought this is no good to do as it puts wear on the gaskets. Am i correct? (they also painted my stainless steel duo-props) =(
Hi, I put the tape on because to me its only logical that paint on the ram rods can cause some problems in the future to seals, and that paint inside mixed with the hydraulic fluid can't be good either. I'm not an expert, but Its just a little prevention just in case. I would not paint the props, I like the stainless steel look on them. Thanks for watching our videos! Peace from the Keys!
Hello! I noticed that you're using a steel brush to remove corrosion and old paint from your outdrive. I just wanted to point out that outdrives are typically made of aluminum, and using a steel brush on aluminum surfaces can be risky. It can lead to scratches and an increased risk of corrosion. I would recommend using a softer brush, sandpaper designed for aluminum, or chemical degreasers that are safe for aluminum instead. Thanks for the video, and I hope this tip is helpful!
Hi! this it did a little better than last time. The more we can remove the old paint and clean it, it gets better. Thanks for watching! Peace from the Keys!
Maybe double check that all of your anodes are made of zinc and not aluminium if in salt water. Hopefully you used 'etching' primer for the bare aluminium. Ideally you should only use etching primer for the bare aluminium and not the paint. You can recoat existing paint after scoring with a pad and decreasing without any need for priming.🫡
Something to consider with age of your boat. Make sure your Mercathode system is functioning properly. First make sure you are getting 12V to your Mercathode. If that's OK next is to check how many milliamps it's putting out. You will need a special probe and multi meter. Mercathode System Testing:
When the boat is in the water, disconnect the orange wire that comes from the anode at the mercathode controller. Set the digital reader to show milliamps. Connect the black meter lead to the terminal on the controller. Connect the red meter lead to the end of orange wire. See what range its reading. Depending on the reading you may find that you need a new unit. My boat is on its second one in 23 years and last year it was reading on the low end normal. Mechanics will replace it this Spring. If you don't have the extra "puck" electrodes added to the transom on either side of the transom assembly. Highly recommended especially in you keep your bost in the water. Make sure all bonding straps are attached and in good condition.
Hi Mark! Super GREAT Information! Thanks so much! Hope you & Family are doing Great! This is the first time in the 18 years I owned this boat that this is happening. Thanks Bro! Peace!
Boat work NEVER stops. I have to handed to you my brother, you are always on top of things when it comes to your boat maintenance. Great video. ❤️❤️❤️
Always thank you my Brother! Yes, its a never ending project....But I Love It! Lol...Blessings! Peace!
Love, this boat are work . Glad your showing this very good to know
Thanks Bro! Greetings to you and family! Yes Bro, love my boat but she always needs a lot of attention...lol. Peace!
Guys, it is extremely important that the areas are carefully fresh water washed to remove all the chlorides before you paint. Furthermore, using a wire brush is okay to remove some of the peeling paint, but prior to painting, you need to use a coarse sandpaper in order you make an anchor pattern in the substrate for the paint to have a good adhesion. When priming it could be a good idea to use an epoxy primer before you apply the finish paint. Remember to respect the minimum over-coating intervals between each coat and of course the minimum immersion time after final coat.
Thanks for watching our video! Great detailed information! 👌 Peace from the Keys!
Great job 🏝🏝🌴🌴💥💥💯🔥👌🏽
Thanks, Bro! Blessings! Peace!
Need to add zinc rivets on there cowboy!!! It's static electricity grounding out
Hi, thanks for watching our video! Yes, great information thanks! 👍 Peace from the Keys!
I just want to chime in as someone who has worked with paints for 25 years.
If you're going to tackle this project the right way, so you don't have to worry about it for another 10 years, here's what you need to do:
AVOID spray can primers such as enamel, it's pointless.
Enamel primers are porous, even 2k urethane primers are porous, and you're just going to let salt water soak right through, all you need is one pinhole.
1. COMPLETELY remove the old paint
2. Prep the metal and leave it with a 180-220 scratch
Then, use a two part EPOXY PRIMER. Spray max makes these available in a spray can now
Epoxy primer is non permeable and it's literally spray-on glue
You want two medium wet coats, then wait a few hrs or even the next day and apply two more medium wet coats
Wait about 15 mins or so after the last two coats and apply your base color over the uncured epoxy.
This ensures a chemical bond between the epoxy and the base color
Wait a fill day to gas out then Clear coat with whatever you want, awlgrip 2k clear, spray can clear ...It doesn't matter.
What matters is the substrate applied over the bare metal
You a want 2 Part epoxy primer or you're wasting your time.
I noticed the quality job taping off the power tilt rods. I just got my outdrive painted by a "professional" who spraypainted the rods... i thought this is no good to do as it puts wear on the gaskets. Am i correct? (they also painted my stainless steel duo-props) =(
Hi, I put the tape on because to me its only logical that paint on the ram rods can cause some problems in the future to seals, and that paint inside mixed with the hydraulic fluid can't be good either. I'm not an expert, but Its just a little prevention just in case. I would not paint the props, I like the stainless steel look on them. Thanks for watching our videos! Peace from the Keys!
Idiots! That paint can clog the valves, and flakes can cause seals to leak both internally and externally.
Hello! I noticed that you're using a steel brush to remove corrosion and old paint from your outdrive. I just wanted to point out that outdrives are typically made of aluminum, and using a steel brush on aluminum surfaces can be risky. It can lead to scratches and an increased risk of corrosion. I would recommend using a softer brush, sandpaper designed for aluminum, or chemical degreasers that are safe for aluminum instead.
Thanks for the video, and I hope this tip is helpful!
Hi, thanks so much for watching our video. Great information to know. Thanks for the comment. Peace from the Keys.
So…it has been a year. Did it hold up better this time?? Inquiring minds want to know…
Hi! this it did a little better than last time. The more we can remove the old paint and clean it, it gets better. Thanks for watching! Peace from the Keys!
Reinforce your ground
Yes, thanks! Only found one ground on the outdrive loose, the other one is attached. Thank you for your comment & watching! Peace!
Maybe double check that all of your anodes are made of zinc and not aluminium if in salt water.
Hopefully you used 'etching' primer for the bare aluminium. Ideally you should only use etching primer for the bare aluminium and not the paint. You can recoat existing paint after scoring with a pad and decreasing without any need for priming.🫡
Hi, thanks so much for your information. This will help others, and thanks for watching our video! Peace from the Keys.