Here’s the thing, when people do this conversion they use a brass servo like a 800lp from reefs. No spacers needed and it’s level with bottom of axle, I know because I did it to my vrd. There are many other ways to add weight to the axle which most do 🤨, and loosing some sprung weight is always good. This upgrade is more involved than what you put in to it, your gear mesh is to tight or your motor is rubbing on the skid by the way.
To me, this is really beneficial for going the custom route. Especially if vanquish would sell the vfd with stubby already included. The Brazin Scale Frontline chassis moves the whole vfd forward about an inch, instead of making room for the servo in the empty space. IMO, a better use of the stubby. There are more and more small companies starting to design around the vfd transmission, so I think in the future we’ll see even more options soon.
I’m getting in to crawling and I really like your crawler videos. I’m not sure yet what brand or model I’ll choose but I think it will be RedCat Ascent Fusion. Just because I have been seen your videos of it. I think it might be great piece to start learn how to drive crawler.
Drag link: I mentioned it was supposed to be swapped - but didn't impact performance. Yes - more weight on the front would help...but it would help without this mod as well.
@RoadsideRC hahaha yes and you can put rims and tires on without doing motor mods on a sports car. Would it be the most beneficial to do all 3, yes. Would it be kinda pointless to only do rims on stock all season tires yes. Would it be kinda pointless to do and aftermarket h.o. motor with stock tires and rims? Yes. Kinda like having a bun without the burger. Is it edible? Yes. Would it be better with the burger and all the extras? Yes. Like buying the buns expecting the full meal deal
I help run a competitive successful comp series and we had a Carbon with the stubby kit win one of our events this season. Seemed like it worked great!
@@RoadsideRC before you give up on it you may want to consider the Brazin RC Frontline chassis. It’s for the carbon/stance and requires the stubby transmission. It moves the skid 23mm forward.
Thank you for the great how to video, I feel this helps with side hill stability. If it was me I would add some wheel weights to the inside of the front wheels or get brass ring for the front or stick on wheel weights over existing wheel rings, Im sold! Looks like I’m going to go out and buy a Stance and turn it into my class 2 hard body chassis. Thank you for your education how to video. How do you like your out runner/ esc set?
@@RoadsideRC For climbing a piece if plywood...... Maybe go back to stock and test climb, side hill and decent angles and record results. Repeat with the Revolver upgrade, then repeat with the Stubby upgrade. Try tossing a Reefs LP brass servo on it and repeat the tests, same with knuckle weights. The stubby kit has a function and only doing a bare minimum of testing wont show it...
@@gordmalby2804 ....but many of those changes could be done even without the stubby conversion. Why do the stubby conversion if you have to do more mods to make up for the weaknesses in the change? Another viewer mentioned this stubby conversion then allows moving the WHOLE transmission forward - now that would end up as a benefit!
@@RoadsideRC The idea of the stubby kit is to get the servo off the top of the axle to help lower the CoG for improved side hill a descent performance. The stock truck would need a fair amount weight added too the front and rear to counter the heavy esc/motor combo and higher servo to stop flipping on a side hill or descent. Modded with the lighter Revolver combo improves the CoG, but weight still needs to be added to keep the truck planted. With the stubby, CoG is lowered even more, with less weight needed to stop roll overs, while requiring a minimal amount of weight at or under the axle line of the front axle to maintain weight bias. "....but many of those changes could be done even without the stubby conversion." Yes they can, tossing a heavy brass servo and knuckles in the front will help with side hilling and climbing, but will make descents worse. You do some fairly extensive testing with the drift cars- transitioning, decreasing radius, increasing radius, constant turns in both direction, acceleration and braking to see and feel on a new rig and after mods/tuning. Crawlers do more than climb so why base a negative opinion on a part without putting in the same effort in testing?
@gordmalby2804 If you watch more of my other crawler videos, you will see how much testing I have done. I have never found descending to be something that is a major issue. Gravity helps, getting down is easy. I have tested REPEATEDLY how adding brass weight helps with sidehill. It does...but barely. Just a few degrees. That is drastically more weight difference than the servo movement....so I agree that moving the servo is directionally better...but so little that I expect it will be hard to measure. Again - I am ignoring the difference between a standard motor and revolver, as that change can be made even without this mod.
This kit shouldn't be looked at for saving weight, rather moving it down lower. Grab a low profile servo of your choice and add the Vanquish heavy front brass or equivalent and give it another shot. The sidehill and off camber lines should be more stable.
Just to be clear - the only appreciable weight movement down is the servo itself, correct? And that is minimized with a smaller servo. The other mods you reference could be done even without this mod.
Interesting. My carbon performed better after the conversion. I also have a lp servo but not sure that should make a difference. Maybe it does worse on the straight angle test. I am able to hit lines on the rocks I struggled with before. I’d be interested to know your thoughts after a crawling session before you convert it back.
Hello, from the USA @Roadside Rc! great view likewise on your video mateXD COULD YOU MAKE A LONG TERN VIEW ON FURITEK KOMODO 10 ECS COMBO PLZ! ALSO ANY OVE RHEATING ISSUE ON THE ESC?! THX U.
The whole point of it is lower cg which most people don't understand. This is funny seeing a none comp guy giving his 2 cents about a comp truck and a huge mod
Thanks for helping with my point! If the purpose is lower COG...then it would move things lower...but it doesn't. It only moves them rearwards! Proof is in the performance.
People really just like wasting their money. They buy all this crap and tack it on and never actually do any real comparison or analysis. Most of it just makes the car worse. Same with suspension geometry, guys will have half an understanding of the kinematics they are working with and make a bunch of changes that only make the car measurably worse. But they also aren't good enough drivers to take advantage of improved dynamics so when it feels "different" they just assume that means "better". People are silly.
looks quite a bit of work Troy hope a good reward at the end good details on how to do it so on test worse return it to original least anyone trying it will know now thats sad *🥸fully viewed🤖Au🦘☑thumbs up👍have a great week👍*
Here’s the thing, when people do this conversion they use a brass servo like a 800lp from reefs. No spacers needed and it’s level with bottom of axle, I know because I did it to my vrd. There are many other ways to add weight to the axle which most do 🤨, and loosing some sprung weight is always good.
This upgrade is more involved than what you put in to it, your gear mesh is to tight or your motor is rubbing on the skid by the way.
Please tell me the parts of this upgrade that I missed!
To me, this is really beneficial for going the custom route. Especially if vanquish would sell the vfd with stubby already included.
The Brazin Scale Frontline chassis moves the whole vfd forward about an inch, instead of making room for the servo in the empty space. IMO, a better use of the stubby.
There are more and more small companies starting to design around the vfd transmission, so I think in the future we’ll see even more options soon.
Agree 100%!!! This, in combination with moving the whole transmission forward would be EPIC!
I’m getting in to crawling and I really like your crawler videos. I’m not sure yet what brand or model I’ll choose but I think it will be RedCat Ascent Fusion. Just because I have been seen your videos of it. I think it might be great piece to start learn how to drive crawler.
I 100% agree - it is the best value in RC crawling right now. Highly recommend it.
Thanks for the video, you have the drag link on the wrong side. You also need to add more weight to the front, various ways to do this.
Drag link: I mentioned it was supposed to be swapped - but didn't impact performance.
Yes - more weight on the front would help...but it would help without this mod as well.
17:21 brass lp getting weight lower along with brass portal covers to bring c of g down and getting that ballence 60/40
Yes! But I can do both of those things without doing this swap...
@RoadsideRC hahaha yes and you can put rims and tires on without doing motor mods on a sports car. Would it be the most beneficial to do all 3, yes. Would it be kinda pointless to only do rims on stock all season tires yes. Would it be kinda pointless to do and aftermarket h.o. motor with stock tires and rims? Yes. Kinda like having a bun without the burger. Is it edible? Yes. Would it be better with the burger and all the extras? Yes. Like buying the buns expecting the full meal deal
Very very nice video, man! I thought the same thing but so far I had no proof of it.
We just have to test these things!
Stubby kit is worth it. Makes a huge difference if you know what you’re doing and set it up right.
Tell me what I did wrong!
Yep, a brass low profile servo changes everything
I help run a competitive successful comp series and we had a Carbon with the stubby kit win one of our events this season. Seemed like it worked great!
I bet it does...but it might have done better without the conversion!
@@RoadsideRC before you give up on it you may want to consider the Brazin RC Frontline chassis. It’s for the carbon/stance and requires the stubby transmission. It moves the skid 23mm forward.
@@davidbertrand7069 Now THAT would be a BIG improvement!!!
@@RoadsideRC I’m running their Pacesetter on my 10 Pro. Love it!
Thank you for the great how to video,
I feel this helps with side hill stability. If it was me I would add some wheel weights to the inside of the front wheels or get brass ring for the front or stick on wheel weights over existing wheel rings, Im sold!
Looks like I’m going to go out and buy a Stance and turn it into my class 2 hard body chassis. Thank you for your education how to video.
How do you like your out runner/ esc set?
If you get a Stance, I bet you will like it!
More videos coming about this motor and esc setup soon!
It's all about lower CG. Meant to go with a low profile servo too.
...but the only weight that gets lower is the servo. Otherwise, all weight is moved rearward....which. as I showed, makes it worse...
@@RoadsideRC For climbing a piece if plywood......
Maybe go back to stock and test climb, side hill and decent angles and record results. Repeat with the Revolver upgrade, then repeat with the Stubby upgrade.
Try tossing a Reefs LP brass servo on it and repeat the tests, same with knuckle weights.
The stubby kit has a function and only doing a bare minimum of testing wont show it...
@@gordmalby2804 ....but many of those changes could be done even without the stubby conversion.
Why do the stubby conversion if you have to do more mods to make up for the weaknesses in the change?
Another viewer mentioned this stubby conversion then allows moving the WHOLE transmission forward - now that would end up as a benefit!
@@RoadsideRC The idea of the stubby kit is to get the servo off the top of the axle to help lower the CoG for improved side hill a descent performance.
The stock truck would need a fair amount weight added too the front and rear to counter the heavy esc/motor combo and higher servo to stop flipping on a side hill or descent.
Modded with the lighter Revolver combo improves the CoG, but weight still needs to be added to keep the truck planted.
With the stubby, CoG is lowered even more, with less weight needed to stop roll overs, while requiring a minimal amount of weight at or under the axle line of the front axle to maintain weight bias.
"....but many of those changes could be done even without the stubby conversion." Yes they can, tossing a heavy brass servo and knuckles in the front will help with side hilling and climbing, but will make descents worse.
You do some fairly extensive testing with the drift cars- transitioning, decreasing radius, increasing radius, constant turns in both direction, acceleration and braking to see and feel on a new rig and after mods/tuning. Crawlers do more than climb so why base a negative opinion on a part without putting in the same effort in testing?
@gordmalby2804 If you watch more of my other crawler videos, you will see how much testing I have done.
I have never found descending to be something that is a major issue. Gravity helps, getting down is easy.
I have tested REPEATEDLY how adding brass weight helps with sidehill. It does...but barely. Just a few degrees. That is drastically more weight difference than the servo movement....so I agree that moving the servo is directionally better...but so little that I expect it will be hard to measure.
Again - I am ignoring the difference between a standard motor and revolver, as that change can be made even without this mod.
This kit shouldn't be looked at for saving weight, rather moving it down lower. Grab a low profile servo of your choice and add the Vanquish heavy front brass or equivalent and give it another shot. The sidehill and off camber lines should be more stable.
Just to be clear - the only appreciable weight movement down is the servo itself, correct? And that is minimized with a smaller servo.
The other mods you reference could be done even without this mod.
Great video. I'm surprised how little grease is in the gearbox.
Thanks!
The power level is soo low in these that grease really doesn't matter that much.
Interesting. My carbon performed better after the conversion. I also have a lp servo but not sure that should make a difference. Maybe it does worse on the straight angle test. I am able to hit lines on the rocks I struggled with before. I’d be interested to know your thoughts after a crawling session before you convert it back.
I did try it on my backyard course. Did not see any benefit - genuinely seemed to make it worse.
Try that $25 injora low pro servo. I'm trying one out on a super street slash build.
Thanks for the tip!
Hello, from the USA @Roadside Rc! great view likewise on your video mateXD COULD YOU MAKE A LONG TERN VIEW ON FURITEK KOMODO 10 ECS COMBO PLZ! ALSO ANY OVE RHEATING ISSUE ON THE ESC?! THX U.
It has been great for me. No issues at all!
I think it's a preference thing,not saying that there products aren't worth it
Vanquish makes a lot of good parts! Not sure how useful this one is....
I could imagine it helping a bit with side hilling and down hill.
But up hill, I'm doubtful.
Yep - exactly!
I thought this was ment for custom applications. I believe it was used in a custom buggy.
Maybe!
A single 800LP Brass would be the thing that benefits this kit. Otherwise it’s pointless.
A heavier servo would really help this ...but would also have some gains when mounted on axle as well!
The whole point of it is lower cg which most people don't understand. This is funny seeing a none comp guy giving his 2 cents about a comp truck and a huge mod
Thanks for helping with my point!
If the purpose is lower COG...then it would move things lower...but it doesn't. It only moves them rearwards!
Proof is in the performance.
@RoadsideRC it lowers the motor weight in the chassis by running the smaller motor and lowers the cg of the servo but that should be common sense
Fairly certain that dropping the servo DOWN and back means it’s not just all backwards.
I love all your videos. This mod sucks. Lol
Thanks!
Most "mods" people do to crawlers are pointless.
People really just like wasting their money. They buy all this crap and tack it on and never actually do any real comparison or analysis. Most of it just makes the car worse. Same with suspension geometry, guys will have half an understanding of the kinematics they are working with and make a bunch of changes that only make the car measurably worse. But they also aren't good enough drivers to take advantage of improved dynamics so when it feels "different" they just assume that means "better". People are silly.
I do see many folks do things to their vehicles just because they see others do it. I really like to test and see for myself.
Hope it helps others!
looks quite a bit of work Troy hope a good reward at the end good details on how to do it so on test worse return it to original least anyone trying it will know now thats sad
*🥸fully viewed🤖Au🦘☑thumbs up👍have a great week👍*
At least I helped others!
@@RoadsideRC yes a good thing mate