Thank you, Paul. I made a piece of furniture recently - 26 mortise and tenon joints, all made using the methods I learned from you. And every one is a straight, square, snug fit. What a joy. Thank you!
The guide is a great idea. Even if you own a mortiser you can use it to trim the sides since they usually don’t get very beautiful with the mortiser. Just use a slightly smaller bit than the mortise you need and then take off the extra millimetre with the guide and a chisel. Fast AND a nice result. :)
I agree - it's good for the brain when people realise that there's more than one way to skin a cat. I love that mortice guide too - it helps people see that they don't need to be suckered in to buying things they don't need when you can often just use the tools you were born with (your brain and imagination) instead and feel the satisfaction of overcoming challenges instead of buyer's remorse from being conned by businessmen!
You know I hear and see a lot of people trashing yellow pine, but Paul doesn't seem to mind it. He works it and I can't recall him ever saying anything bad about it.
I've used Mr. Sellers method for years. At one point I bought these beautiful Marples mortise chisels with awesome boxwood handles.... And I never use them 😂 This method IS better.
I'm always learning something new about mortises from you Paul. I've always used your methods but, somehow I missed the episode about the mortise jig you're using. I'll have to dig that up and watch it so I can make myself one or two. As always, thank you for sharing, cheers :)
Hallo Paul, danke für das zeigen, habe wieder was dazu gelernt. Leider sind deine Videos zu kurz. Ich wünsche dir ein schönes Wochenende. Viele Grüße Christel ☺️👍
If I can pay $25 and have fun for a few weekends, solo or with friends, and not have to deal with any live service or micro transactions or seasons or battle passes? That's the dream
This technique is so straight-forward , leaves me wishing I needed to make some m&t joints. You don’t score the far side of the mortise. Any tearing hidden under the tenon shoulder?
Nice method, I haven't cut any mortices by hand in a long time. I'll get the pig stickers out and make up one if your gauges. I do like the 'Haywood' method of standing end on to the mortice but I can see with your gauge its not needed.
Do you use different size of guides for cleaning the other side wall of the mortise? Or do you free hand that side. Just curious how you tackle the far side. Or is it cleaned up as you hog out the material with the 1/2” chisel?
Thank you. Wonderful video. Please help. I’m making sawhorses to do post and beam mortise and tenon work. My wood for my sawhorses is 3.5x3.5 Douglas Fir. I’m not sure what size would be best for the mortise and tenons. Your help would be appreciated
Paul will u show how to makeing that mortice jig please I need to get all my work tidy n crisp joins doing level 1in carpentry and joinery diploma I'm after being a bench joiner that u scott ad dovtail jig u made how utch or 1 ???
A few weeks ago I was thinking of making a mortise guide which is essentially a block of wood with a mortise already cut into it and some alignment lines. The idea is you line the guide up on the work piece, clamp it down and chop the mortise through the guide. Functionally it would work like a template for your mortise. Could over engineer by adding adjustability. Have you tried a mortise guide like this before?
Hi there Mr.Sellers 👋🇨🇦 I have a 100$ for you ,a lot of people are saying that we need a mortise chisel to make mortises . When i saw you take some normal chisels i got a big question mark in my head 😁 Can you make a video about this please and explain the why and don’t . Because now i am starting to think that a lot of woodworkers on UA-cam are saying things , either to sell for $$ or because they don’t know and got miss lead . 🤷🏻♂️ Thx for answering and being ho you are ❤🇨🇦👏
I agree. One individual here in Eastern Canada with his UA-cam site promotes woodworking excellence and also promotes his online sale of tools. Some of these tools such as chisels are manufactured in Canada and considered some of the best BUT are extremely pricey. Viewers believe that to produce a high level of result you must have these tools. I would like to hear what Paul’s opinion is on using a mortise chisel as opposed to a quality bench chisel for this exercise. Most times Paul and many others will not respond to questions or comments posted to their videos. 🇨🇦👨🦳👍
I feel like you're challenging me to find a picture of someone who had a jig like that earlier. I mean, it's the obvious thing to do if your sides are critical.
Awesome as always :) Can anyone tell me why does Paul only use a chisel for mortises? I see People making this with drill. Is it still faster to use a chisel, maybe more accurate, or he simply prefer traditional way to do it?
I believe part of Paul's mission is to educate how easily it CAN be done using just simple (non powered) hand tools. Although TBH I recently needed three large mortises fully thru a cedar 4x4 and I did use a drill for the bulk, but still chisels to clean and finesse it the rest of the way.
Are you chopping into pine? The growth rings look much closer together than the pine I have. I'm making a treadle lathe out of a 2X12, and whenever I chop across the grain, it compresses and breaks apart. The growth rings are 1/4" apart, It's basically styrofoam... My chisels are sharp and I'm only taking 1/8" chops. Guess I need to just spend the money on better wood next time
Is there a link for the guide you made? I'm interested in learning more. Is that a sheet of copper on the fence? How did you choose the depth of the fence?
It is just plywood. I am guessing he used plywood with a plastic or painted face, and the colors are paint/primer/plastic or glue. The depth of the fence is decided based on how far in your mortise should be from the edge. In other words, you make a fence from scrap for each project (unless you made a fence previously that fits your needs). And if you make furniture, you could use the same dimensions across the pieces so that you can re-use jigs and guides. Another option would be to use shims for your guides, for example held in place with magnets: two magnets in the "mother guide" which has the deepest offset, then different shims with a piece of steel embedded to move the offset. But at some point, you'll just toss the training wheels and do this freehand. You build skills fast! :)
I dont know about this one. It looked fast yes, but the first and most notably the last of the short edges, looked damaged from the lever action of the chisel. Would you also go to the extent of making another 'chisel guide' for the opposing face? I think I prefer your previous method, this one seems a bit too agricultural.
Sorry i have a question which isn't related to the video topic but maybe anyone can answer: I bought an old Record No.4 it is a "warfinish" one and the sole looks pretty flat (checked with a straight edge) but the sole is not perpendicular to the handles / tote the whole body casting thickness is on the right side from the tote around 5.2 mm and on the left side of the tote its around 4.5 mm so round about between 0.5mm to 0.7mm diffrence from side to side but it's flat . Is it understandable? It looks like somebody lapped it with a edge grinder seated on the side.. I will not use it for shooting (have bigger ones too) it should be my smoother so the sides do not be square to the sole.. Do i have to try to get the sole perpendicular to the tote or is it a good advice to do so?
@@laurencegoedar462 Hmm, do you think human sense is fine enough to recognise this "inclined plane" of max. 1mm from left to right? Beside this.. i just started with handplaning.. didn't have muscle memory yet.. but some other "perpendicular" planes...additionally
No, square sides are not necessary for bench planes. You’ll get a ‘feel’ for when you’re planing slightly out of square eventually. So long as the sole is flat, you’re golden.
@@Gnasherism Sure not square sides to sole is not necessary.. But with this plane i meant the tote is not square to the sole. The sole is flat but slightly like an oblique plane in relation to the tote / knob..
@@SergeantBlubb sorry, I clearly hadn’t properly read what you’d said. I personally wouldn’t worry too much, just see how you get on. Would hate to see something useable get tossed in the bin (as would Paul, I suspect) especially if with a bit of fettling you could get it back sitting true
Thank you, Paul. I made a piece of furniture recently - 26 mortise and tenon joints, all made using the methods I learned from you. And every one is a straight, square, snug fit. What a joy. Thank you!
No matter how many times I watch you use this method it's always a joy to see!
and I always learn something. Ive tried to chop as fast as Paul. Not yet.
A machine did do it! Paul is a machine!
So that's how you keep from blowing out the sides of a mortise when chopping, thank you Paul, always a pleasure :)
The guide is a great idea. Even if you own a mortiser you can use it to trim the sides since they usually don’t get very beautiful with the mortiser. Just use a slightly smaller bit than the mortise you need and then take off the extra millimetre with the guide and a chisel. Fast AND a nice result. :)
I could watch Paul for hours.
Thank you for putting there dimensions in both metric and imperial units :D
I agree - it's good for the brain when people realise that there's more than one way to skin a cat.
I love that mortice guide too - it helps people see that they don't need to be suckered in to buying things they don't need when you can often just use the tools you were born with (your brain and imagination) instead and feel the satisfaction of overcoming challenges instead of buyer's remorse from being conned by businessmen!
Nicely stated, chippy. Thank you.
The Master. Truly .
Paul, thank you for sharing this with us. Just great method. Everyone stay safe, warm, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia
Wow. An Absolute thing of beauty your mortise chopping technique is. Thank you.
-Castor
You know I hear and see a lot of people trashing yellow pine, but Paul doesn't seem to mind it. He works it and I can't recall him ever saying anything bad about it.
Paul I was just perusing some old fine woodworking mags from 2007-9. It was such a good surprise seeing your letter to editor in the front of one.
Fabulous methodology I use only your method for the last few years,works like a dream.
it looks difficult, but is quite doable with a bit of practice. Definitely worth having chisels in the toolbox.
This man is God of woodworking.
Thanks Paul, watched and stored away for future use !
I've used Mr. Sellers method for years. At one point I bought these beautiful Marples mortise chisels with awesome boxwood handles.... And I never use them 😂 This method IS better.
This video will make many turn to hand tools mortising. Great inventive way to make a mortise.❤️👍
i will use this method.. Thanks Mr Paul 🙏🇮🇩
Pura vida Don Paul su técnica y guía para las mortajas se ve muy efectiva y práctica .pura vida for sharing with us
Great method and brilliant idea to make a jig like that
Thanks Paul for another amazing video. I’ll be using this method on my next build. Have a good day. Thank you.
Truly amazing! Thank you, Paul! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
fantastico come sempre, grazie Paul
Love the guide. That's a nice looking mortise.
I use it works better than anything else I’ve tried. Thanks Paul
I'm always learning something new about mortises from you Paul. I've always used your methods but, somehow I missed the episode about the mortise jig you're using. I'll have to dig that up and watch it so I can make myself one or two. As always, thank you for sharing, cheers :)
Paul Sellers is not on the the King of Woodworking, he is the absolute best on YT at explaining while doing. Great video, thanks
Awesome video, Paul!
Nice! Wish I'd seen this video last week. Would have been a real time-saver.
Awesome. Just awesome. And so quick and easy! Really makes me wonder if I really need to bother with power tools.
What a great method!
Hallo Paul, danke für das zeigen, habe wieder was dazu gelernt. Leider sind deine Videos zu kurz. Ich wünsche dir ein schönes Wochenende. Viele Grüße Christel ☺️👍
This is very similar to the techniques used by the Japanese carpenters. But it's really good to see these techniques developed
The Japanese got the idea from Paul though.
Great examples. Thank you.
I don't need a mortice just now, but I'm having to go out and try this, right away!
Many thanks.
Thanks Paul
Love the guide!!
Beautiful.
that's amazing... you did that almost faster than I can set up my router and jig to make the same cut.
Excellent!
Awesome!
Nice work dude 🥰🥰
Thanks have never used this method but will be from now on
Thank you.
Thanks
When you see someone at work and you know it's a part of him you understand the ease which comes from him...🖖
Paul you should get this method patent in your name....its really a wonderful method.
Hats off 👏
Love it
Still the best !
thanks
If I can pay $25 and have fun for a few weekends, solo or with friends, and not have to deal with any live service or micro transactions or seasons or battle passes? That's the dream
This technique is so straight-forward , leaves me wishing I needed to make some m&t joints. You don’t score the far side of the mortise. Any tearing hidden under the tenon shoulder?
Hehe I learn to mortise from you Mr Paul, it's a fun way than drilling two holes which I find inconvenient....
Nice method, I haven't cut any mortices by hand in a long time. I'll get the pig stickers out and make up one if your gauges. I do like the 'Haywood' method of standing end on to the mortice but I can see with your gauge its not needed.
Good to see you back in the saddle Paul, how did the hands hold up, hopefully good? :)
This method is being used here in India from a long time.
Instructive as always - and you make it look so easy.
Could you tell me if you put a micro-bevel on a mortise chisel?
Do you use different size of guides for cleaning the other side wall of the mortise? Or do you free hand that side. Just curious how you tackle the far side. Or is it cleaned up as you hog out the material with the 1/2” chisel?
Thank you. Wonderful video. Please help. I’m making sawhorses to do post and beam mortise and tenon work. My wood for my sawhorses is 3.5x3.5 Douglas Fir. I’m not sure what size would be best for the mortise and tenons. Your help would be appreciated
If possible, please make a video on making a chessboard with hand tools only.
Paul will u show how to makeing that mortice jig please I need to get all my work tidy n crisp joins doing level 1in carpentry and joinery diploma I'm after being a bench joiner that u scott ad dovtail jig u made how utch or 1 ???
A few weeks ago I was thinking of making a mortise guide which is essentially a block of wood with a mortise already cut into it and some alignment lines.
The idea is you line the guide up on the work piece, clamp it down and chop the mortise through the guide.
Functionally it would work like a template for your mortise. Could over engineer by adding adjustability.
Have you tried a mortise guide like this before?
❤
Hi there Mr.Sellers 👋🇨🇦 I have a 100$ for you ,a lot of people are saying that we need a mortise chisel to make mortises . When i saw you take some normal chisels i got a big question mark in my head 😁 Can you make a video about this please and explain the why and don’t . Because now i am starting to think that a lot of woodworkers on UA-cam are saying things , either to sell for $$ or because they don’t know and got miss lead . 🤷🏻♂️ Thx for answering and being ho you are ❤🇨🇦👏
I agree. One individual here in Eastern Canada with his UA-cam site promotes woodworking excellence and also promotes his online sale of tools. Some of these tools such as chisels are manufactured in Canada and considered some of the best BUT are extremely pricey. Viewers believe that to produce a high level of result you must have these tools. I would like to hear what Paul’s opinion is on using a mortise chisel as opposed to a quality bench chisel for this exercise. Most times Paul and many others will not respond to questions or comments posted to their videos. 🇨🇦👨🦳👍
Ignorant question here: How would I adjust the mortise guide for mortises that have different thickness walls?
😎😎😎
👍
👍👍👍👍
I feel like you're challenging me to find a picture of someone who had a jig like that earlier. I mean, it's the obvious thing to do if your sides are critical.
Who else things Paul sound like a commentator calling a soccer match.
Awesome as always :)
Can anyone tell me why does Paul only use a chisel for mortises? I see People making this with drill.
Is it still faster to use a chisel, maybe more accurate, or he simply prefer traditional way to do it?
honestly its just easier to use a chisel. maybe easier for mortises >1" wide.
I believe part of Paul's mission is to educate how easily it CAN be done using just simple (non powered) hand tools. Although TBH I recently needed three large mortises fully thru a cedar 4x4 and I did use a drill for the bulk, but still chisels to clean and finesse it the rest of the way.
Are you chopping into pine? The growth rings look much closer together than the pine I have. I'm making a treadle lathe out of a 2X12, and whenever I chop across the grain, it compresses and breaks apart. The growth rings are 1/4" apart, It's basically styrofoam... My chisels are sharp and I'm only taking 1/8" chops. Guess I need to just spend the money on better wood next time
Is there a link for the guide you made? I'm interested in learning more. Is that a sheet of copper on the fence? How did you choose the depth of the fence?
ua-cam.com/video/ZDk9Rv5imj0/v-deo.html&ab_channel=PaulSellers
It is just plywood. I am guessing he used plywood with a plastic or painted face, and the colors are paint/primer/plastic or glue. The depth of the fence is decided based on how far in your mortise should be from the edge. In other words, you make a fence from scrap for each project (unless you made a fence previously that fits your needs). And if you make furniture, you could use the same dimensions across the pieces so that you can re-use jigs and guides.
Another option would be to use shims for your guides, for example held in place with magnets: two magnets in the "mother guide" which has the deepest offset, then different shims with a piece of steel embedded to move the offset.
But at some point, you'll just toss the training wheels and do this freehand. You build skills fast! :)
He has a set of them for different offsets. Check out video on these.@@vharboe
Blocking these new youtube attempts to force adverts at everyone is annoying with the 30 seconds of silence.
Easier on the ears, lungs and wallet than those machines👍
You'd need a registered mortise chisel for the guide would you?
Not all new mortise chisels have parallel sides I think so beware
The mortise guide is a great thing, however it has been used for hundreds of years by japanese woodworkers so this is not a new thing.
Paul has a dry a sense of humor, he was making a little joke lol
I dont know about this one. It looked fast yes, but the first and most notably the last of the short edges, looked damaged from the lever action of the chisel. Would you also go to the extent of making another 'chisel guide' for the opposing face?
I think I prefer your previous method, this one seems a bit too agricultural.
Respectfully, why not just use a mortise chisel - designed for the job?
I’m the 2nd viewer
Sorry i have a question which isn't related to the video topic but maybe anyone can answer:
I bought an old Record No.4 it is a "warfinish" one and the sole looks pretty flat (checked with a straight edge) but the sole is not perpendicular to the handles / tote the whole body casting thickness is on the right side from the tote around 5.2 mm and on the left side of the tote its around 4.5 mm so round about between 0.5mm to 0.7mm diffrence from side to side but it's flat . Is it understandable?
It looks like somebody lapped it with a edge grinder seated on the side.. I will not use it for shooting (have bigger ones too) it should be my smoother so the sides do not be square to the sole..
Do i have to try to get the sole perpendicular to the tote or is it a good advice to do so?
In my experience, using this plane will disturb your developed muscle memory in holding and using normal planes level.
@@laurencegoedar462 Hmm, do you think human sense is fine enough to recognise this "inclined plane" of max. 1mm from left to right? Beside this.. i just started with handplaning.. didn't have muscle memory yet.. but some other "perpendicular" planes...additionally
No, square sides are not necessary for bench planes. You’ll get a ‘feel’ for when you’re planing slightly out of square eventually. So long as the sole is flat, you’re golden.
@@Gnasherism Sure not square sides to sole is not necessary.. But with this plane i meant the tote is not square to the sole. The sole is flat but slightly like an oblique plane in relation to the tote / knob..
@@SergeantBlubb sorry, I clearly hadn’t properly read what you’d said. I personally wouldn’t worry too much, just see how you get on. Would hate to see something useable get tossed in the bin (as would Paul, I suspect) especially if with a bit of fettling you could get it back sitting true
3d viewer 😂