Best High Heat Spray Paint to Prevent Rust on an Exhaust - 7 Month Winter Test
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- Опубліковано 14 чер 2023
- Today we will see if painting a steel exhaust with high heat paint can help it prevent from rusting through an Ohio winter with road salt.
Products used:
Duplicolor Engine Enamel: amzn.to/3Pasw2j
Duplicolor Metalcast: amzn.to/3NrhhAZ
Duplicolor Wheel Coating: amzn.to/43VRiqP
VHT Flameproof: amzn.to/3X32r7c
VHT Engine Enamel: amzn.to/3Cr5LiR
180 Grit Sandpaper: amzn.to/3NrLbW1
Duplicolor Prep Spray: amzn.to/43FMEhc
Thanks to Mike from the Shop Spot for lending his lift to view the results!
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6thGearGarage - Авто та транспорт
Im a mechanic in NY and these cheap exhausts normally only last 2 years before a connection rots away or a weld fails and you have to cut and sleeve it. Guaranteed you’ll get a few trouble free years from your work. Awesome.
which aftermarket brands would you say use good steel? my walker exhaust rotted in 3 years
@@ShadowGKCP anything that is stainless will last. Autozone, Napa and advanced all use garbage. Just has a coating that comes off in a few months. You would need to fully paint it like Brian.
Loved it! Get that nasty rust in illannoz too. Picked up a project this winter and trying to paint as i go. Thanks for the experiment! Have a safe weekend!
Nice test! Thanks
The welded seams are NOT rusting from the inside out! Weld seams can rust easily because of oxygen corrosion, also known as "knife cut" corrosion. The welding process creates a Heat Affected Zone (HAZ) that changes the structure of the metal grains, which can lead to pinhole leaks. The weld metal is usually optimized to improve its mechanical properties, which makes it more "anodic" than the base steel. This can cause the weld metal to corrode at higher rates than the base metals. If you can find a "high heat weldable primer" it will help.
Thanks for explaining 👍
This was super helpful! Thank you very much
You're very welcome!
The weld heat changes the metal, you can brush high temp grease at the joints then wrap them with aluminum tape , just peel off when the salt season has passed
good idea, thanks!
@@6thGearGarage I do this to my boiler furnace where the pump flanges rust . No smell but have to do it every winter. If you're under your car a lot you can also use a propane torch and gulf wax to condition the pours of the metal it's how blacksmiths finish off raw steel to cure from rust. I think a exhaust weld would need this monthly though
I will have to replace exhaust parts soon and I plan to do some painting on my new stuff just to hope it prolongs life a bit. Thanks a lot for the experimentation, I didn't know to scuff up the exhaust!
It's all about the prep!
Excellent idea, nice presentation. Thank you as these is great question.
Thanks for watching!
This is going to sound a bit odd and sketchy. But I know a fellow here in Ohio who paints his pipes and exhaust with rubberized undercoating. It turns into a hard coating and oddly, doesn't catch fire. :)
I’m intrigued! I may have to try this 👍
@@6thGearGaragewould love to see it, unconventional solutions are the tricks of the trade.
@@6thGearGarageI want to paint my chrome aftermarket exhaust tip gloss black . Can you recommend the best spray paint to do that .
@@richcampbell6808 You'll want to finish it with a high heat paint, such as gloss black VHT engine enamel. I'd also scuff it well first, like I did in this video, and apply a high heat engine primer second. Just be sure to clean well between each step to remove contaminates and get best adhesion!
I just started playing with cerakote. I am coating everything with it. I am not even doing the prep all that good after how I seen it do on a rusty chisel.
I tried the high heat black on my over axel pipe to tip and it did not hold up well.
I order a new 5 inch system for my truck last week and going to try the cerakote on it. Figure you might want to check the product out.
C series is the one you want to try. 1800 degrees of heat resistance and no oven needed. .
That's awesome, I will check it out
Just got a ‘quality 409 stainless steel’ exhaust for $300 shipped off ebay, going to coat it in that vht for these pnw winters. Thanks for the video
300 shipped is a great deal for stainless exhaust 👍
Super helpful test, thank you! Maybe it helps if you apply the paint a bit thicker on the weldings?
I think those welds might just be rusting from the inside out, as this is definitely a cheap exhaust.
@@6thGearGarage My theory is the steel for the welding wire has a lower quality than the rest, hence the weldings rusts quicker. Thats why I have painted the seams even thicker than the rest. I have just finished the job, lets see how it looks in 1-2 years :)
The catalytic converter is emissions related and, therefore, likely stainless, which explains the lack of rust.
100% correct,that blue paint stayed rust free because of the stainless steel.
I live in Texas not far from the gulf I have had 3 bbq pits rust one rusted all the way through Now i have a pellet grill rusting and was wondering can that paint be used on bbq pits both the fire box. And the 4’ long 28” inches around. And can the racks be sprayed as well to stop. Rusting
They could absolutely be used on the BBQ pits. However, I wouldn't paint the inside or the racks where any of the food will be cooking. Might give a strange flavor to the food.
the issue here is all the coatings are only really going to be as strong as the base when you get down to the important aspect..... however, something is better than nothing!
I've used VHT header paint to paint an entire exhaust in Vermont- where there's more salt on the road than snow, water, cars, dirt or anything else... they love it salty.
The results are fantastic, and the only issue I've had is the hardware. If you don't use stainless hardware, it's now the weakest link. I have a 22 year old exhaust system on my work van used to haul race cars, and the only issue was a weld breaking that corroded from the inside out. Makes me wonder if it's possible to coat the INSIDE of a new exhaust system well enough to stop that from happening. Another tip I'd suggest is that these paints need heat to cure initially- so after I paint them, I get a propane or map gas torch and heat it all up until the paint changes color a little. Some exhaust systems won't get hot enough- OR if there's some time between paint and driving the vehicle, the paint may come off or get moisture affecting adhesion before it's ever heated enough to cure properly.
Thanks for a great video and a great idea!
You're absolutely correct! There were instructions on the high heat paint for curing on and off of the vehicle. I cured it on the vehicle, which was just running it for a certain amount of time, letting it cool, and then running it again for a certain amount of time. I should have put that in the video.
One problem I've just noticed lately is, many exhaust parts for older vehicles are being discontinued by Walker. I Was able to buy a complete from the cat back system for my '92 Dodge Shadow only a few years ago, now the intermediate and extension pipes are that well known element called Unobtainium.
I ran into the same problem when shopping for a catback for my 1988 Legend. Custom built was the only option and not cheap.
Universal aftermarket parts, such as mufflers and resonators are a option.
Local exhaust shop can be helpful to custom make exhaust system, but they can also order it in too.
For older vehicles exhaust parts are also available online.
Junk yard can have the needed parts from the same car or same platform car.
For me its not hard to get parts, since I own domestic cars.
I've custom assembled complete catback exhaust system from different domestic vehicles exhaust tubing, resonator, muffler, tips, hangers, and it works well.
I kind of like that the orange changes to black. It's not chipped or flaking.
and it's so glossy as well.
The original exhaust system on my 1997 Buick Lesabre has a little surface rust here and there, but I live in South Carolina. When I changed a leaky flange gasket, the bolts actually came out. I don't know how anyone could stand it up there.
It's rough, but by now I'm used to everything being a PITA and figure every job should take 2x as long as It should.
is it possible for the paint to entrap heat? say on a catalytic converter. would this cause any issues?
I did not consider that... but I have been told that a cat works best when it's hot, so maybe it wouldn't hurt it?
paint is a horrible thermal insulator, ceramic on the other hand would be however not the "ceramic" in a spray can. Either way you can insulate your exhaust given its not too small for the engine you'll be just fine.
Hey is that a saleen speedster tonnaeu cover on the wall???
It sure is... good eye!
I appreciate what you where attempting to do but your approach and execution are flawed in several different ways.
1st the exhaust you purchased appears to be aluminized (which is a very good anti rust coating) and very hard to get removed completely, that's why all the weld joints were rusted because welding will burn through the aluminized and leave rare steel.
2nd the cat is probable stainless steel
3rd there are very specific instructions on the paints for curing which where completely ignored and at least for the HIGH HEAT paint makes a huge difference.
If you really want to do the test correctly get a 5 foot section of bare steel and repeat the test with the proper baking procedures or get as close as you can with a heat gun. My preference is to use a heat gun to blow through and heat from the inside out to bake.
I do appreciate the video but it could use some tweaking to get better real results.
There were instructions on the high heat paint for curing on and off of the vehicle. I cured it on the vehicle, which was just running it for a certain amount of time, letting it cool, and then running it again for a certain amount of time. I should have put that in the video. One thing I should have done differently is left a section unpainted to see how it would have done with no paint at all.
Should do video on kbs .they seem like good paint they got good cears i think to .urethane that is slow cured whatever that means.cerakote is getting more expensive kbs is cheaper but not ceramic
I haven't heard of KBS, I will look into them. thanks!
Thanks for reply
So you're painting with discontinued paints. How exactly is this going to help us?
Only some of these were discontinued. Everyone says "they don't make them as good as they used to" so I tested old versions next to new versions to see how they hold up and make sure these companies aren't skimping on quality. As we saw, the old engine paint turned brown!
You seem to have forgotten the CAT is stainless.
I’m reading this and seeing your profile pic is a cat 😁. It is, but I’m still impressed that there were no chips in the finish of the flameproof paint.
The paint stuck, though, and hasn't shown any signs of flaking, etc. The high heat is what was the big concern at that point. Yes, the stainless will help prevent corrosion, but it isn't going to last "forever."
The cat is not meant to be painted. I Was told.this by the makers of VHT Flameproof a.k.a Dupli c
Color
I know cats can get vary hot... that really shows the amount of heat that the paint can withstand.
Stainless steel is the only way to go it'll outlive the vehicle.
100%
Thank you for making your exhaust look terrible for science haha
Why didn't you use the primer before you painted?
I did use two types of primer before painting.
@6thGearGarage
There are 2 types of primer?
I know they make a regular primer, but what's the other one, thanks
@@btbd2785 Engine and High Heat, they're both in the video
Im sure your bud lite color exhaust posted in June is just a kwiky dink....
😂😂😂 7 months in the works, you’d think I’d have planned a little better