Is there literally anything you can Not do. That’s the question. Unbelievable man so inspiring. It almost gives us amateur cabinet makers or false pretense that we can actually achieve the same greatness. So we attempt to give it a go and realize who are we kidding. No chance. Awesome job as always
Well where do I start this week ?…. What can I say that has already been said, Your bloody good 👍 and you make it looks so bloody easy. Got to be the best woodworking channel on UA-cam. LOVE IT !!!! Thank you 👍👍👍👍
Best joinery channel on the planet! Awesome work and fantastic description too. All credit. Real old school care, standards and craftmanship - well done.
Amazing craftsmanship! I hope that the recipient of this masterpiece truly realizes the amount of work, skill, and craftsmanship is required to make this cabinet! Thanks for all your hard work in bringing this to us!
Superb - I wish I'd had a vauum press when I did mine. I had to rely on strap clamps - but it worked. Great job!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Love the way you make the jigs for making sure the joints are spot on and that vacuum bag is brilliant but the one that impressed me the most was the back of the pencil to spread the glue in the joints lol.😂😂😂😂
Having made stacks of curved laminations over the years, a couple of observations that you may find useful moving forwards. In your vacuum bag slide in a base board with some grooves in it going the length and width around 75mm apart about 3 -4 mm deep, this will allow the bag to pull down evenly and better than relying on just the felt strip. Always use a glue such as cascamite that will go rock hard, PVA will always have give in it. When making the cauls for the shape you may want to put your ribs a bit closer and attach a cover board on top of them, as when you put a finish on the timber you will see the slight imperfections in the sheen when the light catches it. Great video as always, a true and proper craftsmen at work and always following good health and safety practices.
Cheers for that Gary! Yeah i was advised PVA will spring, but for the backing boards i thought it would be ok, seemed to work pretty well, but would probably cut the ribs another half inch back next time and have 12mm strips pinned around the curve longways before laminating the boards around next time so there is a ply effect. Love the info, and nice to know im not too far off the mark, ive not been taught this just leaning and figuring out as best i can as i went, Definitely learnt alot!
I agree with your mate, make the doors first and I'd do them with a 3mm tighter radius to allow the spring back. Great video, keep up the excellent work. You make other makers jealous of your skills. Karl W
Yeah its a good idea, Ive since made the top cabinet using a few different things, based on experience from the base unit. Turned out bloomin brilliant. Although having 12 thin lamination there was absolutely no spring whatsoever of the former! Your very kind, thankyou!
Nice one Graeme, that is good to hear! Part 2 will be a week on Friday (hopefully) i have the cornice moulding for the top corner unit in the schedule for this weekend!
Fantastic work, curved components and machining them. This knowledge is so hard to come by - I really appreciate you taking the time to share it . Hooked on this kitchen series! Can’t wait for the next 👍
Cheers David, I will Pin any comments that provide education that i do not know, I am simply having my best guess from my knowledge and working things out on how to do this...!
Awesome work Ollie is there no end to your talent,I know good preparation is the key but that dry fit was amazing, had to smile when you said you had gaps 1/2 mm over about 2in .Great job as always
Another top video of a top project 👍🏻👍🏻 little tip if you didn’t know already turn your blue fhol roller around long part at the top and the glue roller hooks onto it to keep the roller from being compressed between rolling 👍🏻
🥰😘 love it as always my man 💪 not only the technical ability you have, but how you explain everything in detail just you sharing your knowledge makes me smile especially after the last year I av had top work as always the bollicks big man keep it up 👍😏 legend that you take tbe time to share it for free with people up most respectful that alone 😎
Fantastic work as always. Just a few ways that we do it at work which may help you in future projects. Our moulds are skinned with 2 or 3 skins of 3mm mdf then laminated and we also use duck tape around the edges just to restrict the airflow through the mould and prevent the mould collapsing. I love the bandsaw tramel idea we use a router tramel jig which also works well. Keep up the fabulous work 👏
Cheers Paul! I had a issue with the open sides, so ended up running a strip of timber down it! I learnt the drill/pin trick from my apprenticeship (not my idea) So happy to pass it on! the mould for the top cupboard, i sanded with a flat pad once it was dry, gave a dead flat curve with no sign of dipping between ribs. Ive seen a comment on here about the curvomatic aluminium system. that looks brilliant
Super videos. How do you find time for educating all of us lesser mortals and still make a living? Anyway thank you! You always seem to answer my questions just before I have them myself. On tapered plugs, yes they are fabulous - I have the Veritas version which work fine. And yes you have some great kit which most of us amateurs don't have (mega wide sander, vertical board cutter, spindle moulder, tenoner, vacuum former etc) but the principles are there and we have to find solutions within our means! Inspiring stuff, please keep it coming.........David in Herefordshire
In short, im struggling now! On a quite demanding project with life issues getting in the way, video editing takes a back seat. I do have a friend that does alot of the work for me and wouldnt have a channel without him. Im pleased to see you being resourceful, most comments ask how do i do that without "insert machine name"
JFC, I think I have a handle on things and then I watch this and I might as well be a two year old watching a parent do taxes. Unbelievable. Well done.
Lovely job, extremely tight - a mm off is as good as it gets with anything made by hand. The skill and dedication to result is inspiring. I know it's all easier said than done, but since you asked for input; I wouldn't trust myself to match anything at this level of complexity, so I'd make all the curved parts first, in the same run, until the whole front dry fits and matches in every aspect. Also I'd start with the door panels and work outward, once the curvature of the doors is right that’s a good reference to fit everything around. And I'd still make a pig’s breakfast of the whole thing for sure.
Thankyou for that! Yeah on the wall unit i had a much better method and had all the curves glued before doing any machining! Actually worked out pretty simple
Word to the wise on that brayer with well for gluing: Do clean after use but BUT make sure you have wiped all the water off of the roller surface and do not let the roller sit in the feeding slot of the well or else you will have corrosion and you will have to block sand that feeder slot just to get a smooth opening for next time of use. I put a 1.5" larger block of wood screwed to the blue brayer base so you do not have to kid glove the action every time you hang the brayer on the blue stand. Helps to steady the blue stand. I made a wedge for the 150MM wide brayer to narrow the roller path down to 2" and that keeps the amount of glue applied to a more precise amount and less buildup for the unused part of the wide roller. Yes, that brayer is well worth the extra penny.
That was brilliant I really enjoyed watching the process. The frame turned out superb expecially using actual machined tenons. One point if I may, it might be worth trying. When you used the ratchet clamp to pull the horizontal frame rail down to the former profile prior to the vacuum pressure taking over on the vacuum press. If you used 3 ratchet clamps with the ratchet mechanism underneath you could leave the clamps on. When the membrain starts to pull down you could release them slightly so you have even vacuum pressure across the surface. Hope the doors go to plan. Tony
Cheers Tony, I did use a couple of straps on my first attempt and left them in, i taped over the metal with masking tape alot but didnt like the metal edges being pressed by the bag. I ended up using thinner strips and maskign tape once the straps had it wrapped round i taped it then removed the straps. Doors went well, the finished cupboard is on my instagram story until tonight.,
I love doing curved work but every time i see someone starting to set out reminds me of a miserable old in a workshop years ago ( were the curve starts the profit ends ) 🤪 have you ever used polystyrene formers ? Send them your cad drawing they send you the former, much faster and nice and light and easy to store for next time. As you said the glue roller is worth every penny but make sure you clean it very well ( as if you wouldn’t ) i had a triple tank set up under the sink to filter the washing up water so it didn’t go down the drain, cleaned up every few weeks.
Haha pretty much Jim 🤣 the finished cabinet is lovely and well worth the effort but effort is an understatement! 🤣 I hadn't heard of foam formers until literally earlier today! Haha I cleaned it well In a bucket of warm water then ran the components under the tap in hot water. I wouldn't like to use it with solvent based glue! 🤣
Wow ! Great craftsmanship man . I’ll love to try something like this one day but think I’ve got a long way to go to get to your level Keep up the good work 👍
Nice cabinet, look at the curvomatic aluminium profiles for the bag press, I think it's a great system. And if you flip the blue but up for your glue roller it will hang off it, keeping the roller hanging in free air.
Bloody hell Ryan, they are some bit of kit. Yeah i figured the glue roller stnad out while admiring it at tea break afterwards haha!!! See then part 2 (hopefully next week) The cupboard is made now, ive put it on my insta stories until tonight. If i do any more ill be getting a curvomatic
I use them eclipse trammels when I make stairs . I came up with a great way of setting them out that’s different than the traditional ways . It’s spot on . If your interested I could e mail it to ya . 😉
Sounds intersting Terry, Ill probably make stairs again at some point, you know how it is, seem to do a lot of something then a new project out the blue comes along and then a few more the same after. I cant comment my email, but search channel name for website and it should be on there, i haven't used it in years, but assume it still works (the website)
Fascinating ideo. I envy you your patience.Was this a commercial job or one for our better half ? I just wondered how do the large kitchen manufacturers tackle a job like this
Cheers Paul, its part of a clients kitchen! If you had set sizes they are cnc machined from sectional glue ups and more industrial lamination machines. A couple of good programmes to watch are inside the factory on bbc @ Ercol and How its made on curved doors.
Really impressed! Top joiner / cabinet maker. I was surprised at how little spring away from the former. What materials were you using for the cabinet?
Thankyou Very much Alan, Youll get more spring from flexible adhesives, the UF Resin is incredibly rigid. Cabinet is Birch Ply with a 1/4 sawn oak veneer
I love those spreaders. Easy to clean as well. Sure you can hang the tool on That blue stand can't you? Or does it need to be mounted to the wall? I'm sure I remember it being able to hang on it on the bench....might be wrong...anyway, love watching this series. I've always wanted to do cured cabinets but I'm too scared lol
Really nice work. I might be a bit nieave but does the cost of making this make it too expensive? I would like to think that there are still people who are happy to pay for the craftmanship.
Cheers Paul, yes there are people willing to pay, infact i spend alot of time in that bracket where it would be more cost effective to choose another option
@@BradshawJoinery that's great. I often think that another £100 in the budget would give me half a day more so I don't have to rush and cut corners that i wouldn't cut if I were working on my own house.
Hi Bradshaw, great video as usual. I'm wondering about the glues you use! I work mostly with Accoya making windows and doors, and I use Wurth and Soudal 15 and 30 min PU glues, but they're pretty toxic and messy to work with. The gun-tube stuff you use in this video looks much nicer to work with, what is it and where can I get some?! Cheers, Jack
I think it was actually wurth glue, but as you say its more toxic than some others. A slightly more liquid version in the gun is sovereign chemicals PU Rapid, slightly thicker but less potent is Construction chemicals Wood Weld
@@BradshawJoinery I always preferred Timbond PU adhesive from Adkwik, it goes in the frame gun as well and is less runny and dries firmer. It also dries very quickly, don’t know how we managed before we had that.
@@BradshawJoinery I currently just shop at B&Q or Wickes for my plywood, I was just wondering where professional woodworkers buy their wood from, wether I would be able to find a better quality plywood elsewhere. I am not sure where you are based in the UK but I'm around the Hertfordshire area.
If youve done one already easy, if not, best guess on time plus materials plus bit. Then its a question of wether you want the job or not bothered as to if or how much profit you add on.
The PU glue that I use, Jowat, #150.91, white, requires a spray of water in the application area in order to activate the PU. It is PU dispersion glue in a 40 lbs bucket. What and how is your PU used? In the binding of books industry it (PU) requires a chamber where the air cannot get to the PU in order work.
I have yes, a little like that pantorouter from mattias wandel? Im not sure it would fit in a production workshop environment but looks a very capable tool!
@@BradshawJoinery well, this machine, which is used in many production shops, as well as furnituremakers shops, is capable of milling mortises for rails and stiles in curved doors amazingly quick and accurately, The work can be presented to the bit on edge, rather than needing a curved fixture as the tenoner did. You can also easily adjust the location of the mortise being milled into the mating face on the curved rail to balance the remaining material on either side for joint strength- This is a serious machine that does different operations very well . I do not ever use the tenon templates, strictly floating m&t only-
I use to have a link that alowed me to show my appreciation via a donation (I dislike companies like Patreon who get in the middle of a transaction) could you put up the link again please
Hi Paul, thankyou for the support, I have added a PayPal me to the description. I can't add it to the comment as UA-cam delete's comments with links automatically.
Cheers Chris, I think pocket screwing with domino location if a great way of merging the two components. Certainly not seen any detriment to using this method yet! I was a bit pressed to get the template deadline
There is a cheapo similar designed brayer from China that looks like the Pfohl but does not work. Don't buy it. I spent hours trying to correct the problems and gave up.
Is there literally anything you can Not do. That’s the question. Unbelievable man so inspiring. It almost gives us amateur cabinet makers or false pretense that we can actually achieve the same greatness. So we attempt to give it a go and realize who are we kidding. No chance. Awesome job as always
Haha plenty Jason, i couldnt do this until i tried lol! Turned out pretty sweet too haha Thanks once again for the kind words!
Well where do I start this week ?…. What can I say that has already been said, Your bloody good 👍 and you make it looks so bloody easy. Got to be the best woodworking channel on UA-cam. LOVE IT !!!! Thank you 👍👍👍👍
Haha Carl, thanyou so much, your positive feedback means the world mate. Not sure about the best, but thanks man :)
Ah, the giddy excitement of a new tool performing far better than you even imagined. Love that 😀
Haha!!! When it solves such a problem and then does more than you expected...! haha
love peoples reaction and excitement when trying new tools.
Haha, That thing is so cool! haha
Best joinery channel on the planet! Awesome work and fantastic description too. All credit. Real old school care, standards and craftmanship - well done.
Haha thankyou buddy, too kind!! Hope your well.
Amazing craftsmanship! I hope that the recipient of this masterpiece truly realizes the amount of work, skill, and craftsmanship is required to make this cabinet! Thanks for all your hard work in bringing this to us!
Thankyou Craig, yes they do, very appreciative!
Boss cabinet maker. Well done. Funny to see how it’s properly done . Hacks everywhere
Cheers Tom :) Im only making it up as i go along with this one haha!
You really are a top tier craftsman Ollie.
Thakyou Matt really appreciate it
Superb - I wish I'd had a vauum press when I did mine. I had to rely on strap clamps - but it worked. Great job!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks David, Yes the right tool sometimes makes all the difference. Have a look at curvomatic.
Doing a great job Mate, Thank's for the share, have a nice day & Stay Safe !!!.
Cheers Brian! Have a great day too!
Bloody Hell Ollie, I kept up with you, but I am blown away with your technique and skill levels. Cheers Paul
Hey Paul, Cheers matey, its taken some head scratching this one. When the first curve failed, a little despair too
I genuinely learn so much from these videos, thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Cheers for that! Its good to hear feedback like this and is the main reason for producing them!
Great video thanks, it's the first video of yours I've seen but it won't be the last.
Thankyou Ron, Thats great to hear.
You should be properly pleased so far with that build, Ollie 👍👍👍
Cheers Dave, Finished cabinet is on Instagram, just a massive load of footage to edit before part 2
Most enjoyable, looking forward to part 2 .
Cheers Nicholas! Probably a week on Friday!
Absolutely smashed that. Looking forward to the next part
Cheers Henry, Very happy with the end result!
Love the way you make the jigs for making sure the joints are spot on and that vacuum bag is brilliant but the one that impressed me the most was the back of the pencil to spread the glue in the joints lol.😂😂😂😂
Haha thanks John, not many pencils left in my shop without a glue end! haha!!
Great video, thanks
Cheers Michael!
Having made stacks of curved laminations over the years, a couple of observations that you may find useful moving forwards. In your vacuum bag slide in a base board with some grooves in it going the length and width around 75mm apart about 3 -4 mm deep, this will allow the bag to pull down evenly and better than relying on just the felt strip. Always use a glue such as cascamite that will go rock hard, PVA will always have give in it. When making the cauls for the shape you may want to put your ribs a bit closer and attach a cover board on top of them, as when you put a finish on the timber you will see the slight imperfections in the sheen when the light catches it. Great video as always, a true and proper craftsmen at work and always following good health and safety practices.
Cheers for that Gary! Yeah i was advised PVA will spring, but for the backing boards i thought it would be ok, seemed to work pretty well, but would probably cut the ribs another half inch back next time and have 12mm strips pinned around the curve longways before laminating the boards around next time so there is a ply effect. Love the info, and nice to know im not too far off the mark, ive not been taught this just leaning and figuring out as best i can as i went, Definitely learnt alot!
"If it turns out Ok", l think you meant to say, this will turn out to my usual high standard👍🤣
Nice touch using a hexdrill bit as a center🎯
Great work👍 who doesn't love curves 😍
Thanks Clive! It turned out pretty good tbh! haha
I agree with your mate, make the doors first and I'd do them with a 3mm tighter radius to allow the spring back. Great video, keep up the excellent work. You make other makers jealous of your skills. Karl W
Yeah its a good idea, Ive since made the top cabinet using a few different things, based on experience from the base unit. Turned out bloomin brilliant. Although having 12 thin lamination there was absolutely no spring whatsoever of the former! Your very kind, thankyou!
That's fantastic! You gotta love Poplar! Love seeing you do this super complicated stuff, thanks for sharing!
Thanks Buddy, yes its a lovely material. Some deem it not durable enough, but i love it!
Amazing work!!! I sat through the whole video with a big smile on my face 🙂
Nice one Graeme, that is good to hear! Part 2 will be a week on Friday (hopefully) i have the cornice moulding for the top corner unit in the schedule for this weekend!
Another cracking video mate, beautifully executed 👏👏
Thankyou buddy!!
Wow, that might be the most impressive UA-cam vid I've ever seen. Can't wait for part 2. Thanks for posting.
Nice one Graeme, that's good to hear. We spent a very long time editing all the footage down to this. Pleased its been worthwhile
Very nice workmanship. I have done quite a lot of curved work myself.
Thankyou, well thats good to hear, ive learnt a lot!
Awesome, turned out nice. Nice job !!
Cheers Gene, yeah blomin pleased with the result
Pure class Ollie 👌 can’t wait for part two. Brilliant work 👏🏼👏🏼
Cheers Jason! Probably be a fortnights time, the edit is a big effort on such a video!
Fantastic work, curved components and machining them. This knowledge is so hard to come by - I really appreciate you taking the time to share it . Hooked on this kitchen series! Can’t wait for the next 👍
Cheers David, I will Pin any comments that provide education that i do not know, I am simply having my best guess from my knowledge and working things out on how to do this...!
Good old air press, just got one after my original packed up, works a treat.
They are great to deal with and very helpful on the technical side!
Have you seen the curvomatic system also?
Great work
Thankyou!
Very good work!
Cheers Homer
Very well done!! Fantastic!! Niek
Thankyou very much!!
Awesome work Ollie is there no end to your talent,I know good preparation is the key but that dry fit was amazing, had to smile when you said you had gaps 1/2 mm over about 2in .Great job as always
Haha I was pretty darn pleased to be honest. I was winging my way through this one! lol
Another top video of a top project 👍🏻👍🏻 little tip if you didn’t know already turn your blue fhol roller around long part at the top and the glue roller hooks onto it to keep the roller from being compressed between rolling 👍🏻
Cheers Tom, yeah haha i figured that out at tea break after glue up! Lol. Cheers for the tip anyways.
it looks amazing already, brilliant work
Thankyou Peter! :)
Hi Oliver, nice work as usual and now people know why bespoke curved work is expensive.
Haha absolutley! The videos have had a good impact on my customers actually. Appreciate the products even more
nice work…I got to make one of that soon. Thanks
Cheers mate, good luck with it
A fine piece of work and ... a well made video too.
Keep 'er lit Bro!
Cheers once again Ivan! :)
🥰😘 love it as always my man 💪 not only the technical ability you have, but how you explain everything in detail just you sharing your knowledge makes me smile especially after the last year I av had top work as always the bollicks big man keep it up 👍😏 legend that you take tbe time to share it for free with people up most respectful that alone 😎
Cheers mate, it does take a lot of time to film, but hopefully it is worth it! Im glad the videos are helping others tbh.
What a “honey” of a build!
Cheers Philip, she really is a honey! haha
Fantastic work as always. Just a few ways that we do it at work which may help you in future projects. Our moulds are skinned with 2 or 3 skins of 3mm mdf then laminated and we also use duck tape around the edges just to restrict the airflow through the mould and prevent the mould collapsing. I love the bandsaw tramel idea we use a router tramel jig which also works well. Keep up the fabulous work 👏
Cheers Paul! I had a issue with the open sides, so ended up running a strip of timber down it! I learnt the drill/pin trick from my apprenticeship (not my idea) So happy to pass it on!
the mould for the top cupboard, i sanded with a flat pad once it was dry, gave a dead flat curve with no sign of dipping between ribs. Ive seen a comment on here about the curvomatic aluminium system. that looks brilliant
Wow wow wow !!
Thankyou Maurice!!!
Super videos. How do you find time for educating all of us lesser mortals and still make a living? Anyway thank you! You always seem to answer my questions just before I have them myself. On tapered plugs, yes they are fabulous - I have the Veritas version which work fine. And yes you have some great kit which most of us amateurs don't have (mega wide sander, vertical board cutter, spindle moulder, tenoner, vacuum former etc) but the principles are there and we have to find solutions within our means! Inspiring stuff, please keep it coming.........David in Herefordshire
In short, im struggling now! On a quite demanding project with life issues getting in the way, video editing takes a back seat. I do have a friend that does alot of the work for me and wouldnt have a channel without him. Im pleased to see you being resourceful, most comments ask how do i do that without "insert machine name"
JFC, I think I have a handle on things and then I watch this and I might as well be a two year old watching a parent do taxes. Unbelievable. Well done.
Hey Jon. Please don't be put off. Before starting I was very unsure on wether I could achieve this so I'm positive you could do the same 👍
Lovely job, extremely tight - a mm off is as good as it gets with anything made by hand. The skill and dedication to result is inspiring.
I know it's all easier said than done, but since you asked for input; I wouldn't trust myself to match anything at this level of complexity, so I'd make all the curved parts first, in the same run, until the whole front dry fits and matches in every aspect. Also I'd start with the door panels and work outward, once the curvature of the doors is right that’s a good reference to fit everything around. And I'd still make a pig’s breakfast of the whole thing for sure.
Thankyou for that! Yeah on the wall unit i had a much better method and had all the curves glued before doing any machining! Actually worked out pretty simple
Word to the wise on that brayer with well for gluing: Do clean after use but BUT make sure you have wiped all the water off of the roller surface and do not let the roller sit in the feeding slot of the well or else you will have corrosion and you will have to block sand that feeder slot just to get a smooth opening for next time of use. I put a 1.5" larger block of wood screwed to the blue brayer base so you do not have to kid glove the action every time you hang the brayer on the blue stand. Helps to steady the blue stand. I made a wedge for the 150MM wide brayer to narrow the roller path down to 2" and that keeps the amount of glue applied to a more precise amount and less buildup for the unused part of the wide roller. Yes, that brayer is well worth the extra penny.
Good advice thanks!
That was brilliant I really enjoyed watching the process. The frame turned out superb expecially using actual machined tenons. One point if I may, it might be worth trying. When you used the ratchet clamp to pull the horizontal frame rail down to the former profile prior to the vacuum pressure taking over on the vacuum press. If you used 3 ratchet clamps with the ratchet mechanism underneath you could leave the clamps on. When the membrain starts to pull down you could release them slightly so you have even vacuum pressure across the surface. Hope the doors go to plan. Tony
Cheers Tony, I did use a couple of straps on my first attempt and left them in, i taped over the metal with masking tape alot but didnt like the metal edges being pressed by the bag. I ended up using thinner strips and maskign tape once the straps had it wrapped round i taped it then removed the straps. Doors went well, the finished cupboard is on my instagram story until tonight.,
I love doing curved work but every time i see someone starting to set out reminds me of a miserable old in a workshop years ago ( were the curve starts the profit ends ) 🤪 have you ever used polystyrene formers ? Send them your cad drawing they send you the former, much faster and nice and light and easy to store for next time.
As you said the glue roller is worth every penny but make sure you clean it very well ( as if you wouldn’t ) i had a triple tank set up under the sink to filter the washing up water so it didn’t go down the drain, cleaned up every few weeks.
Haha pretty much Jim 🤣 the finished cabinet is lovely and well worth the effort but effort is an understatement! 🤣 I hadn't heard of foam formers until literally earlier today! Haha
I cleaned it well In a bucket of warm water then ran the components under the tap in hot water. I wouldn't like to use it with solvent based glue! 🤣
Wow ! Great craftsmanship man . I’ll love to try something like this one day but think I’ve got a long way to go to get to your level
Keep up the good work 👍
Thankyou! It is all possible by anyone! Just lots of small techniquies to learn! Good Luck
Lovely job. I've got tool envy, it's a middle age thing so i'm told???
Not sure about that, ive always suffered such idiosyncrasy's
Nice cabinet, look at the curvomatic aluminium profiles for the bag press, I think it's a great system. And if you flip the blue but up for your glue roller it will hang off it, keeping the roller hanging in free air.
Bloody hell Ryan, they are some bit of kit. Yeah i figured the glue roller stnad out while admiring it at tea break afterwards haha!!! See then part 2 (hopefully next week) The cupboard is made now, ive put it on my insta stories until tonight. If i do any more ill be getting a curvomatic
tidy work !
Cheers matey
I use them eclipse trammels when I make stairs . I came up with a great way of setting them out that’s different than the traditional ways . It’s spot on . If your interested I could e mail it to ya . 😉
Sounds intersting Terry, Ill probably make stairs again at some point, you know how it is, seem to do a lot of something then a new project out the blue comes along and then a few more the same after. I cant comment my email, but search channel name for website and it should be on there, i haven't used it in years, but assume it still works (the website)
Great work! Really impressive. Which program do you use for design?
Hi. Thanks for an excellent video. What is the full circle for on your 1:1 layout diagram?
Hi Martin, I get a lot of comments to reply to, could you add the time it appears in the video and I'll get back to you? Example 23:14 👍
Sorry, it was around 01:56 where a full circle appears. …yes, I probably a bit autistic 🙂
AHH ok, that was for a storage unit they potentially wanted, it had a circumstance that needed to sit within the cupboard but ultimately didn't use
Fascinating ideo. I envy you your patience.Was this a commercial job or one for our better half ? I just wondered how do the large kitchen manufacturers tackle a job like this
Cheers Paul, its part of a clients kitchen! If you had set sizes they are cnc machined from sectional glue ups and more industrial lamination machines. A couple of good programmes to watch are inside the factory on bbc @ Ercol and How its made on curved doors.
Really impressed! Top joiner / cabinet maker. I was surprised at how little spring away from the former. What materials were you using for the cabinet?
Thankyou Very much Alan, Youll get more spring from flexible adhesives, the UF Resin is incredibly rigid. Cabinet is Birch Ply with a 1/4 sawn oak veneer
I love those spreaders. Easy to clean as well. Sure you can hang the tool on That blue stand can't you? Or does it need to be mounted to the wall? I'm sure I remember it being able to hang on it on the bench....might be wrong...anyway, love watching this series. I've always wanted to do cured cabinets but I'm too scared lol
You'll be fine doing a curved cabinet. Just very time consuming!
Amazing work, how many hours would you say the project took?
the 2 cabinets took 3 weeks.
Really nice work. I might be a bit nieave but does the cost of making this make it too expensive? I would like to think that there are still people who are happy to pay for the craftmanship.
Cheers Paul, yes there are people willing to pay, infact i spend alot of time in that bracket where it would be more cost effective to choose another option
@@BradshawJoinery that's great. I often think that another £100 in the budget would give me half a day more so I don't have to rush and cut corners that i wouldn't cut if I were working on my own house.
Really clean work mate!. What was that pocket hole jig you were using called ?
Cheers Josh,. Its the kreg K5 I just removed the block and clamped iot to the piece
Hi Bradshaw, great video as usual.
I'm wondering about the glues you use! I work mostly with Accoya making windows and doors, and I use Wurth and Soudal 15 and 30 min PU glues, but they're pretty toxic and messy to work with. The gun-tube stuff you use in this video looks much nicer to work with, what is it and where can I get some?!
Cheers,
Jack
I think it was actually wurth glue, but as you say its more toxic than some others. A slightly more liquid version in the gun is sovereign chemicals PU Rapid, slightly thicker but less potent is Construction chemicals Wood Weld
@@BradshawJoinery I always preferred Timbond PU adhesive from Adkwik, it goes in the frame gun as well and is less runny and dries firmer. It also dries very quickly, don’t know how we managed before we had that.
Can I please ask where you bought your pencil tramels from. Cheers Bob.
Hi Bob, many years back at a small shop in Sywell now non existant. Search Eclipse trammel
@@BradshawJoinery ok will do, and thanks.
Hi, I was wondering where you buy your Plywood from in the UK please?
Hi Josh, this particular pack came from Latham's, special order oak faced birch
@@BradshawJoinery thank you 👍
There won't be any birch ply about at the minute with the Russia Job. Same story with all Russian sourced products. Redwood is scarce!
@@BradshawJoinery I currently just shop at B&Q or Wickes for my plywood, I was just wondering where professional woodworkers buy their wood from, wether I would be able to find a better quality plywood elsewhere. I am not sure where you are based in the UK but I'm around the Hertfordshire area.
How much do you charge for all that preparation?
It's a tricky one, a good guess at the hours and materials required then a little wiggle room. It's was part of a big price for the whole kitchen.
How do you price something like this..?
If youve done one already easy, if not, best guess on time plus materials plus bit. Then its a question of wether you want the job or not bothered as to if or how much profit you add on.
Are you in a shared shop?
Nope
The PU glue that I use, Jowat, #150.91, white, requires a spray of water in the application area in order to activate the PU. It is PU dispersion glue in a 40 lbs bucket.
What and how is your PU used?
In the binding of books industry it (PU) requires a chamber where the air cannot get to the PU in order work.
Technically yes a moisture content is required, but there is always moisture in the air in UK, ive not had a problem with it not setting yet!
@@BradshawJoinery thanks and have a good day over there
Have you ever seen a Multi-Router?
I have yes, a little like that pantorouter from mattias wandel? Im not sure it would fit in a production workshop environment but looks a very capable tool!
@@BradshawJoinery well, this machine, which is used in many production shops, as well as furnituremakers shops, is capable of milling mortises for rails and stiles in curved doors amazingly quick and accurately, The work can be presented to the bit on edge, rather than needing a curved fixture as the tenoner did. You can also easily adjust the location of the mortise being milled into the mating face on the curved rail to balance the remaining material on either side for joint strength- This is a serious machine that does different operations very well . I do not ever use the tenon templates, strictly floating m&t only-
AHH fair enough, I will give it another look. Thankyou 👍
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Has to be a crazy spendy cabinet.
Handmade Curved work always will be
Hope it's not a secret... How much you'd charge for this project?
Hypothetically if you wish... :)
Cheers
It was all in with the kitchen so i cant say exactly, Budget 7 days labour, plus materials and ironmongery.
I use to have a link that alowed me to show my appreciation via a donation (I dislike companies like Patreon who get in the middle of a transaction) could you put up the link again please
Hi Paul, thankyou for the support, I have added a PayPal me to the description. I can't add it to the comment as UA-cam delete's comments with links automatically.
Sorry to be stupid but I can;t see that link :-((
Hi Paul, I've added the link right at the top as well as further down the description. You may have to refresh the page to fetch the new one.
I didn't get a notification 🤬🤬🤬🤬
Have you clicked the bell icon? Weird if so!!
@@BradshawJoinery I already did when I found your channel
After all that work on the frame you went and used pocket screws? Don't tell me, you have to get it on site for the template.
Cheers Chris, I think pocket screwing with domino location if a great way of merging the two components. Certainly not seen any detriment to using this method yet! I was a bit pressed to get the template deadline
There is a cheapo similar designed brayer from China that looks like the Pfohl but does not work. Don't buy it. I spent hours trying to correct the problems and gave up.
Thankyou! The Pfohl is a great bit of kit tbh!