Kawasaki FR 691 Valves Tips and Tricks....
Вставка
- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
- Hustler recommends at 300 hours the valves be checked and adjusted.Mine was starting to sound like a sowing machine at 180 so I decided to take on the task.Here are a few tips and tricks on how to get the job done.
Enjoy
If your not 100 percent sure your valves are closed stick a screwdriver into the spark plug hole and find top dead center of piston by turning over engine by hand and watching screw driver until it's at the highest point.The intake valve is closest to the carb and exhaust close to muffler.Turn over engine until intake valve opens and closes then stick the screw driver in the spark plug hole and spin slowly until you find TDC.Now you are Certain!
That’s exactly how I do it I find exact TDC and then rotate the crank 10° to clear the compression release mechanism
Want to let people know Only use Kawasaki air filters Have a issue with mine Already know about the terrible intake issues so I change my filter at least 3 to 4 times a season Sent my mower in for smoking really bad at start up It’s totally random Engine only has about 85 hours it and almost 3 years old Sent to one shop and said nothing wrong Sent it to a different shop and after a week in a half it filled there shop with smoke They did what Kawasaki said to do for testing Kawasaki asked what air filter was in it and it’s after market Kawasaki voided all warranty cause it’s not there air filter At least I change the air filter a lot but now I’m stuck with a bad engine Starting to knock now Already adjusted valves Leak down test is good I’m screwed Not happy with Kawasaki at all Don’t stand behind there product Just letting you all know
@@stevenmoore4404 Always put your machine back to stock before bringing it in for any service.Also I been using the foam pre filter for years and it really helps out alot!!
adjust this way on a cold engine? It might be a dumb question for most people. I perused the comments and didn't see anything about it.
@stevenmoore4404 it's not Kawi fault as you use air filters that probably don't filter as good as Kawi air filters.
Also you changing your air filter so often when probably not needed is not great either as when an air filter is in use it actually starts filtering better and catches smaller particles as it gets used , it filters smaller and smaller particles as it gets used so changing it early if not needed is not always the best scenario...
I have had this problem for years on a Kawi FX801 I rebuilt for my zero turn. I will try this tomorrow. Even if this technique doesn't fix it, this was an informative video, thank you.
I never comment but will here.One of the best I’ve seen man,u didn’t talk about what you had for supper or what your dog did
AST week,to the point and it’s appreciated.
Haha thanks bud!
Perfect! Thank you. When I took the cap off and didn't see a place for an allen wrench I was afraid to mess with the bolts.
Good instructions and video. I was so surprised the adjustment was so course for a extreme fine adjustment. Very difficult to adjust. Thanks for video.
Yeah your right about that.They need some finer threads on that bolt!
you are so clear & you know how to give instructions. Mine is an older 23 hp fr691v and I think it looks different than yours.
Thanks a bunch bro!!
It should be the same,snap a pic and send it to me at paraglidermx0@gmail.com and Ill take a look :)
Got my mower with one of these engines when my great grandpa died, he probably got it 10 years ago or more now. Never got a manual with it, just rolled over 350 hours and the valves are just finally starting to chatter which brought me here. Seems like the only one who didnt have a premature problem lol
I never had a problem with these motors they are solid!!
Ill add, I was shopping online for gaskets but went into the dealer I bought the mower from. Online gaskets were $40 for a set of 2, went into the dealer and got the same set for $10 CAD. Fastest shipping I could find was 2 weeks too, dealer had em in stock said they were hands down the most common gasket they sold
@@wills.5762 Think I paid 18 for the set before Joe biden times at a dealer.Thats a great deal!
www.ebay.com/itm/274660905117?hash=item3ff310d09d:g:OmMAAOSwEK9UBooR&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0KJ4NZ%2Fu%2Flw55RaleFVFgqSaLvcit1feOuSWGT4paJLeml6O2%2F6BKtIUW6W8CjjGjTtYLIpiMpb3da5SN12qTT5tzWx5PwGRgMGsgY6NXP3kT%2F88ZGfl6BCWa0oJmM0LEj5%2FBK0EuDYaqpoLzqzxFgkHW%2BIBB41r2mE0JC3c65p6eqbBRMd00C0l1CEgiXVnLd4JrujcEPkvxeq7O7rtTrp6NOienYDSLVWfD6PxuNNJ%2B0i%2Ff5q0Kxg1VedDp2je4Lmy74Kz5AZsiJQCXbkw5hE%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5y0q5qfYg
Hey thanks jersey , going to give it a shot today on my ariens kawi engine. About 300 hours on it . Finger's crossed . Thanks good vid
Just make sure your TDC when you do them.also.
Your welcome
EXCELLENT instruction! Thank you very much for sharing!!
excellent! Worked thru the same sequence and made some adjustments and it all worked out really well. The engine was hard to start.
I also replaced the valve cover gaskets and use a slight amount of brush on indian gasket sealant to both sides. Making sure all the mating surfaces were clean with a brass brush and brake cleaner first. No oil leaks. (did the same thing with new gaskets for the intake manifold gaskets.). One thing I also did was to remove the auto fuel solenoid below the bowl and just zip tied it nearby and used a standard brass hex bolt to keep the bowl tight. I've had too many of them cause problems especially after long winter storage and the fuel ends up causing them to stick and thus causing surging. Removing that key off fuel valve solenoid eliminates a major single point of failure to these engines. The other reason I prefer to just remove it entirely rather than snipping the end of the needle is because it's easier to remove a hex nut when cleaning the carb ...in my fr691v the anti-back fire solenoid (fuel cutoff) is very narrow to get a wrench to remove it. It's a bad design all the way around. To prevent backfires, just pull throttle back to idle for a few moments and then to off. I've never had a backfire doing it that way.
Good informative video. I have essentially the same motor, FR730V. One of my lifter covers is leaking a little bit so I may as well check the clearances since I will be putting new gaskets on.
Thanks man,yeah just make sure your at TDC when setting them and your good to go..run so much quieter.
@@577buttfan Yes. I will do it how you did yours.
I snapped a Sparkplug off in Cylinder #1 on The Fr691v, so I'll be swapping all internals of the head over this will help hopefully
I love these old school intros too man.
Forbidden Evil Ill send you the tune bro!! They kick ass.Old school thrash!!
@@577buttfan 🤟👊👍
I got 265 hours on a FR 730...It still sounds and runs like new but I'm checking those valves anyway thanks to this video..!!
I just bought a new hustler with the fr651v on it
excellent teaching video. impressive. thanks
Thanks for the info. I won a lunch bet because of it.. And, it is very informative
You did lol,good for you man!!!
Perfect video, thanks.
Awesome video thank you
Good video on how to adjust the valve lash on a Kawasaki FR engine! What was the indication that told you this needed to be done? Were you hearing a lot of clicking from this area or some kind of performance issue. How many hours were on the motor when you did this?
Yes little noisy when hot no performance issues.I do it when they get noisy .350 hours.I have one with 500 hours now that's still pretty quiet so I'm leaving it till next year.
Thx
I'd expected the old Allen head adjuster before I got into it...
Our engine is at 220 hrs and it's already out of spec with valves in the book for 300 hours. It's been this way for about 50 hours and I went to adjust it a week ago. One inside, I took one look mad about the gasket and expected shims because of my kx 450.
Made a new felpro gasket and closed it up.
Expecting the exhaust valve to be out because she smokes on start and then you always have to choke it to actually start it. About like the valves on my kx, I'm not too happy with kawi.
Mine get a little noisy when it's hot but it's not a big deal as long as they're within four to six thousand that's good enough. I actually like this adjusting system works pretty good.
@@577buttfan
Yeah, I do to.
The cam bolt I had to deal with was a mess. Right side exhaust valve was a tight 13 thousandths... That adjuster leaves too much guess work and I'm assuming that's why it was at that number. Both intake valves were close enough to spec that I didn't even touch them. I'll open it back up in about 20 hours to check my exhaust valves and intake at 300 hours.
Amazing how well she runs and how little fuel is using now!
I just wish I could retrofit the Allen adjuster into my engine's heads.
@@Aint1S I just did mine at 500 hours and the left side exhaust was loose and all the rest of them are pretty good but I brought them all back to a tight 4 thousands and she runs like a kitten now yeah the adjusters take a little bit of getting used to for sure :-)
Super helpful video sir!
Thanks dude glad I could help a little
Valve adjust locknut torque is 8.1 lb/ft
Thanks buddy I have a built in torque wrench in my elbow after 35 years of this stuff lol
great ,cant wait for you to do mine !!!
Maybe someday lol😎👊
Very helpful!
Nice Video. I need a picture of all the linkage to the carburetor also. Overhauled the carb and now when i fire it up it's stuck in wide open throttle. Somethings off somewhere. Runs great otherwise.
Oh crap,look for the kawasaki fr series factory service manual bro!!It should be in there..also check out Hustlers service manuals :)
Thanks for video. Where did you get tapered shims? Ones I ordered (Tusk) taper is just a narrowing at end. I just adjusted mine yesterday as getting noise from what sounds like muffler. Just my exhaust clearances were just out spec near 0.007in. Going to pull covers off again as worried I over tightened adjuster locknuts. Service manual states to torque valve clearance adjusting locknut to 97 in·lb at beginning of manual in torque table and in procedure states:
Torque - Valve Clearance Adjusting Locknuts: 11 N·m (1.1
kgf·m, 87 in·lb)
• Do not overtighten the valve clearance adjusting locknuts.
*I think 87 inlb wrong here so going with 97inlb given that is 11 N m.
So just went and bought ¼in torque wrench to recheck. Rarely use torque wrenches as most stuff able to tell by feel but for this want to be sure. Have a bigger ½in torque wrench but only really use on wheel studs...
Anyways,
Service manual also states:
Valve Clearance (when cold)
Inlet, Exhaust: 0.05 ∼ 0.10 mm (0.0020 ∼ 0.0039 in.
But operators manual says: 0.004-0.006in
So going to try to get right at 0.004in.
Also valve cover/Rocker cover gasket PN:
11061-1285 (need two)
And rocker cover bolt torque spec 52 in·lb.
Spark plug NGK BPR4ES (which is also listed as 97226)
Spark Plug Gap 0.7 ∼ 0.8 mm (0.028 ∼ 0.031 in.)
I'm going to pull muffler off as think maybe baffle broke loose and that is what is making noise as sounds like a bolt bouncing around in there when running.
I been running them both at .004 for years and they're nice and quiet.
Thanks for the info!!!
@@577buttfan ya im seeng more info stating .004 (0.0039) max so going to try and get right at .004 as some may be closer to .006
Edit:
So all are at 0.004in, intake vales did not need adjustment.
Fitting torque wrench in is not easy especially on cyl1 given would want to torque nut. 97inlb is only 8ftlb so dont need to tighten much. I had assumed overtighten will bend rocket arm brackets but found i had overtighten nut on exhaust bolt in cylinder2 so im glad rechecked. Luckily nut soft so just ended up with helicoil on bolt that came right off with little damage to bolt threads. So just need to replace nut. Found a nut that fits and same thickness and likely not hardened which assume want so deforms slightly helping to hold. Pretty sure its 6mmx1.25. Cleaned bolt and going to apply loctite 243 to threads and hope holds. May gum up (with plyers) end of bolt threads a bit to be safe (end of bolt sticking out after nut).
So lesson is DONT OVER TIGHTEN!
Thanks.
Thanks for the awesome video! Do you use a thread locker, or do they stay put without it?
No thread locker at all they stay put thread locker would not stick well since they're always sumping in oil.
@@577buttfan Thanks!
Nice vid! your mechanical like me bro, really like your videos, some of these dudes are lost tightening a bolt , thanks bro!
i like your vids,, i raced motocross & supercross for 15 years, learned anything mechanical can fail, always had to modify the bikes, watched my brother go over go over trans gears with a jewels file because the bike just wouldn't shift, after, butterrrrrrrrrrrrrr, thanks for your vids!
Great video, thanks! And it answers a question I've always had - Is it *mandatory* to put the piston at TDC? But since the valves are actually closed during a good part of the cycle, as long as you make sure the valve is fully closed like you did here, you can set the clearance on it.
YEs as long as there is no tension on the push rod the valve is closed and you can set them there..or you can always just stick a screwdriver into the spark plug hole and find TDC but its not necessary on this.
@@577buttfan The manual for a FR651V indicates that you set the valve clearance with the engine cover off and with the following magnet on the flywheel at the following ignition coil leg with the piston at TDC of compression stroke. Their diagrams require you to make a lot of mental flips to decipher what they hell the are trying to convey. I finally made photo copies and cut and pasted to form a usable diagram. They referenced the #1 and #2 cylinder without really identifying how to determine. When I cleaned the covers, I saw the embossed cylinder numbers on the interior of the valve covers. Your approach is far easier.
@@mcsmith7606 Works everytime man.
Thanks!!
Thank you very informative.
No prob man,i adjusted mine twice now with this method,its flawless..stay tuned for a 550 hour Raptor SD review with Kawi FR691 coming soon :)
Bump bump!!!
Thank you!
You're welcome!
Thank you so much , very good video !
Glad I can help brother!!!
@@577buttfan A quick question for you , what oil filter do you use ? I refuse to pay 17 bucks for a kawasaki filter so i use a Mann W77 which i have to order . Wish i could grab a filter off the shelf .
@@kenj.8897 I been using the Walmart Super Tech 4967 for years..$2 Its the same filter the 4 cylinder Toyota's use.
@@577buttfan Thanks
@@kenj.8897 No problem brother!!!
Great video. Thanks for posting this. I do have a question regarding the automatic compression release. You pointed out when the release happened on Cyclinder #1 in the video, and mine does the same. I don't see the same thing happening on mine on the right side (Cylinder #2), and I'm wondering if this engine does the release on both sides or only Cylinder #1? The reason I ask is that I have the valves adjusted, thanks to your video, but am still having some cranking difficulty. Would love to know if you've seen the compression release on the right side. Thanks!
Great question I'm not sure to be honest..too be 100 percent sure your valves are adjusted correctly use a screwdriver and stick it down in the spark plug hole then gently turn engine over by hand until you find top dead center..then recheck gap.
Thanks for watching!!
@@577buttfan Thanks man. Yeah, I'm confident I got the TDC right. The engine runs like a champ, it's just hard to crank most of the time.
@@johniskander9787 almost sounds like a timing issue.
Thanks
Good job great imfo
Adjusted mine twice now at 550 hours works great!!!
Excellant!!
I'm having a complete misfire on the left cylinder so using the info from this video, I pulled the valve cover and found that the upper valve had at LEAST .125" of play (that's right 1/16th of an inch). This motor has 150 hours on it, decently maintained (also a Hustler fwiw). I completed the adjustment as shown here and I'm still down a cylinder, so I'm at a loss. I've got good spark and good fuel, but the wide clearance has me wondering if there's a bigger issue with the motor. Next thing to check is the compression I suppose.
Could be a broken valve stem bro that sucks!!
Nevermind, I found this is totally normal when your connecting rod takes a shit and the piston just sits there when you manually spin the engine. Looks like a new motor for me...
I ended up rebuilding the motor. New crank, piston, rod, lifters, and valves. Hated to spend the money (about $400) but it was kind of fun. Tore the whole motor down and built it all back.
@@tristangehman9236 I do this daily with these mowers at work. I’m the repair man for Kawasaki motors in Missouri.
It’s worse than you thought because .125 is an eighth, not 1/16.
That much is not from wear and would require a bent valve or bent pushrod or a pulled rocker stud.
Fingers crossed you’ll be lucky to not have piston damage on that cylinder.
Great and informative but you don’t do it that way after valve closes on bottom u put screw driver in spark plug hole and bring to tdc very important
Been doing it this way for 30 years and not about to change..you can make sure it's at TDC with a screwdriver..when both valves are closed it's at TDC or close enough to adjust the slack out of the valve.
Thanks for watching.
How do you turn the engine if it doesn't have a removable screen
Take the flywheel cover off.Should be a couple bolts and its a plastic shroud like cover.Or turn it over from the crank shaft on the bottom.
Check your service manual, valves should always be set at TDC.
If the valve is completely closed and all pressure is off the lifter its TDC.
If you like you can stick a screw driver into the spark plug hole to confirm that and see it will stop rising as the lifter goes slack and valve closes :)
I been doing it this way for over 30 years.
Thanks for watching.
@@577buttfan Correct, as long as the valve is closed. At TDC you could do both intake and exhaust without rotating motor but your way is fine.
@@vegajf51 I'll have to try that next time.
Just roll it off the lobe
@@ramboollie8115 Thats 100% correct brother thanks for stopping by!!! lot of these people dont know what the cam lobe is lol :)
For some reason I have the commercial version of this engine and sometimes when I start it, it will backfire like all hells broke loose. It blow the Welch plug out of the carb every time. I haven’t adjusted my valves since new, about 800 hours on this machine. Could I just need a valve adjustment or do you think it’s a carb issue. Thanks!
Wow I've heard of them backfiring on shutdown but start up that could be a timing issue... Also check that carb solenoid under the float bowl good luck.
@@577buttfan how would I go about checking the timing?
@@hunterkennedy2429 you would need a timing light..I believe there is a mark on the flywheel..the light is available at harbor freight.Hooks up to battery and spark plugs wire..you need to locate a service manual for details brother.
You still with 800 hours wouldn't hurt a bit to go ahead and adjust the valves considering you said you haven't ever touched them since new. Hope you figure it out. I have seen a few briggs do you what your describing had a few actually myself do that. You would start them up or say you shut it off for just a minute and fire it back up let off a awful backfire on startup.
Can you reuse the valve cover gaskets on these?
If they come off without getting ripped i would put a little Indian Head shellac on there and youll be fine :)
Great video
Thanks bro!!!
Any ideas on this. I’m up for trying anything at this point. I have a JD x390 with a Kawasaki fs651v it’ll only run for a few seconds to maybe a few minutes but only with the choke on. I’ve put a new carb on it, new fuel pump, all filters are new, fresh oil change. I also drained the tank and put fresh gas in. I blew out all the fuel lines and did a valve job. Yet here I am with it still stalling in seconds. I feel like this issue all started when I hit a wet spot mowing but I could be full of shit there. Any help is definitely appreciated.
Wow dude. The only thing I would think it could be maybe the coils. That's crazy. Seems like something is getting hot and it's going into thermal braden
I ended up taking the carb solenoid off and cutting the nipple off. It runs perfect now. It’s odd because it wasn’t stuck and there was power there but it wasn’t opening up. The control panel is brand new also.
Any idea why my fr651v engine on my Ariens Edge never needs choked no matter how long it's been sitting? Why is this and what does this mean?
If it runs ok I'd say the carb is just tuned slightly rich and fuel delivery is on point.My 691 is same way alot of times.
Where do you live? If its over 30c a healthy engine should start without the choke every time
YOu should always go to TDC on the Compression Stroke. It is easy to find it by locating the intake valve which is easy to find because intake is closest to carb and exhaust is closest to muffler. So turn until you see intake valve open then close and then turn until you hit TDC and if you want to use a screwdriver that is ok but something of a softer metal is better so you never scratch anything. A Straw or wooden dowel would probably be best. I think my motor is roasted with only 307 hours on it. Never buy a Toro of anything again. Nearly all of the electrical stuff has broken on this commercial Zero Turn and now the motor is toast. I hear it pushing air back thru the carb. then I pulled the plugs and cranked it with my finger over both plug holes. One hole is way weaker than the other--- crap!!!
Oh that sucks man.Mine are both running strong 700 hours and 325 hours.I run nothing but Shell Rotella T6 in all my stuff great oil!!
Sorry man the shop manual says you need to get it on top Dead center.
Ps. What do you do for a living.
I dont give a fuck what the shop manual says and if you read the pinned comment i explain how to get TDC.
@@577buttfan LoL 😆. Wow 😳 dude. Ok I'm sorry 😐.
@@altonrowell613 Haha no worries man.Its only the internet ;)
Anybody make upgraded rocker arms ?? That stamp steel looks kinda cheap and low quality . Cast pedestal would be great but have to make them cheap as possible down to using much plastic as they can get away with.
700 hours going strong!
Hey Tom, I just bought a mower with this motor, it's got 310 hours on it. What do you think about this motor?
It's a great motor..this one has 700 hours and going strong.I sold it to a friend last year and he cuts a 3 acre farm area.I got one with 120 hours now runs strong.Only thing I do is change oil every 50 hours and clean filter once a week.
Valves don't need to be touched unless they get noisy.Usually around 350 hours.
Bump bump
@@577buttfan awesome, just ordered some valve cover gaskets so I'll be ready when it's time, ps copped a set on eBay from Iowa for $8.95 shipped. As always thanks for helping the average joe👍
@@TheRogerKyle no prob dude your welcome.. yeah you'll need the gaskets for some reason they always rip.
They run so quiet after the valves are done.
😎👍
I wish someone could tell me where you get the rocker gaskets from without taking out a bank loan !
I got mine from the dealer they where not super expensive but they where not cheap either..wanna play gotta pay lol
Just make your own with roll gasket material. Really simply. Just use scissors. Same material the OEM are made from. Can buy a roll at most any parts store. I've been doing it for years on random smaller odd gaskets. Or one's I just don't feel like going to store to get. Save a buck.
@@locomojo0485 I got some of that stuff, works great in a pinch.
I made some out of wood- back maple veneer.working like a champ!( I'm a woodworker)
i thought intake adjustment is different then exhaust
As far as i know they are both the same.Been doing it this way for years and she runs like a top over 1000 hours :)
I did that to my valves then I started it and he smokes real bad and it seem like it used all my old what did I do wrong
Sounds like you have another issue.As long as your valves are closed at TDC when you do this adjustment should be perfect!
Is the procedure the same for the fr651v ?
Open it up.If it has the same adjusters I would say so.
How many hours did you have on the motor before it needed the valves adjusted?
Suppose to change or adjust every 250 hrs
Can you see my video about my fr691v it is called. My engine shakes i need help.
I looked and didn't find it..send me a link please.
I have 20 hours on mine Rt plug fowls out almost immediately (1-2 hours ) with 110lbs compression #1 is perfect burn with 95 lbs compression??? would this help ??
20 hours bring it back to the dealer it's under warranty.
@@577buttfan took it to them said it had a choke butterfly that needed adjusting. I ran it for 20 min plus on off trailer and its sooted up again
@@scotthenderson4376 My last 691 ran richer on one cylinder but not to the point of yours.
I would tell them you want a new engine!
Thanks for the info… bump bump Lmaoo
You bet
@@577buttfan lawnmower is back up and running took cover off and rocker arm was lose and push rod was on top of rocker arm.
Put it all back together, luckily it was straight. Prrs like a kitten .
My 14 year old son can mow lawns again with his favorite mower. He has a husqvarna zero turn that he hates. Again your the man!
@@rayray9777 Haha,thats a great report brother!!
If your setting your valves. You don’t want your valves to moving on the side that you are string them. Too dead center.
I have no idea what you just said?
8
Great video thanks so much.
Glad I could help a little bit have a great weekend
@@577buttfan you as well.
Thanks
No prob 👍