Will this Grx crank work on a already install 24mm bb that already have a chain-line specs as the grx crank. My bb is 24mm just at the Grx crank spindle. I have trek Fx 4 disc 2021 with pro wheel crank. The rear is a 11s deore 5100 I want to use this shimano GRX crank because I can increase it from 42t to 48 with sram or wolftoooth. Thanks
I have a KOGEL pulley and ceramic bottom bracket on my GRX 2 crank coupled with HUNT 25mm rims and DT Swiss hubs believe me with this configuration you will not regret it! You will have a phenomenal gravel experience…
Is it just a bit of plastic wrapper between the bottom bracket and the socket tool? Will any plastic wrapper do and is it just to avoid scratches or does it increase purchase?
So technical lmao I've replaced a few of these shitty cup and cone style ones on my rusted ass ghetto commuter bike I just pour a bunch of grease in, hand screw on the caps then smash the pedals onto the square thing with a hammer
Had GRX600 left crank fell off suddenly. No more than 6 months since I bought it brand new. Two bolts still intact. Lock pin broken, crank cap tension broken. Using BB-RS500. What is the cause?
The only real way that could happen is if the pinch bolts on the crank were not torqued correctly. It’s a surprisingly common error by inexperienced mechanics/bike builders
@@Jeremy_plays_sax I noticed you did not put the black plastic of the BB from the side of the chain ring crank but you put it in the side of the left arm crank. Why?
@@user-kr5hv3nx2y I do it in that order so that I can apply grease to the crank spindle without it being “squeegee’d” off by the seal. not a huge difference but it allows for a bit more lubricant to remain on the crank spindle once installed, helping to prevent seizing or creaking!
Looks like copper anti seize, horrible stuff though I’d be using gloves. Anti seize is for two parts touching that don’t move( bb threads, crown races etc) grease is for parts that do (hubs, bearings etc).
It is, important to use copper or zinc paste when two dissimilar metals (in this case, titanium and aluminum) are in contact. Otherwise you’ll get really bad galvanic corrosion and the threads will seize!
A thread is a C O N N E C T I O N. It is counterproductive to grease a connection for easier loosing. There is also no grease for threads on the markets, but there are many kind of thread locker fluids on the market.
You are mistaken. Shimano (the manufacturer of the bottom bracket and crankset in this video) specifically recommend using anti seize lubricant on the bottom bracket threads. Also, titanium and aluminum will lead to galvanic corrosion if a sufficient lubricant is not used when installing parts together. These components are meant to be changed at regular intervals, and are a relatively high torque application. Lubricating the threads is absolutely necessary in this scenario.
If you’re interested in learning more, here’s the info direct from the manufacturer: si.shimano.com/en/dm/LAFC001/install_remove_bottom_bracket#xd_4df57c21edb0d3e8--705f08b1-17ca06b6e61--7669
The rule is: 1. threads are a conecting methods 2. never grease a connectind for better loosing. 3. If there are manufacturer specification, you have to use the specified fluid in the quantity and specification of the manufacturer By the way, all cars will be manufactured without any lubrication on threads. They only use thread lock. Amateurs put copper grease in large amounts on threads. Copper grease is heat resitance.
@@stefanrohr6475 the anti seize compound I use in this video is specifically for use on threaded fittings. You can read about it here us.muc-off.com/products/anti-seize-copper-compound Hope this helps!
Dude! All this time I thought wow “this GRX is hard to put on!” I was going to have a mechanic put it in for me! Nope not no more, I can do this! …
It's Hollotech 2
whats the brand and model of the bottom bracket? it has easy to remove plastic cap, not like the shimano sm bb52 the cap is very difficult to remove.
Will this Grx crank work on a already install 24mm bb that already have a chain-line specs as the grx crank. My bb is 24mm just at the Grx crank spindle. I have trek Fx 4 disc 2021 with pro wheel crank. The rear is a 11s deore 5100 I want to use this shimano GRX crank because I can increase it from 42t to 48 with sram or wolftoooth. Thanks
Looks like a large star/Allen key?
How much does the off set affect it? I want to use non GRX derailures.
I have a KOGEL pulley and ceramic bottom bracket on my GRX 2 crank coupled with HUNT 25mm rims and DT Swiss hubs believe me with this configuration you will not regret it! You will have a phenomenal gravel experience…
What is the tool used on the ratchet to tighten up the last large bolt (Opposite side of the chain side)
What was the thing he put in the crank near the chainring?
For me the bottom bracket won’t screw into the frame
Is it just a bit of plastic wrapper between the bottom bracket and the socket tool? Will any plastic wrapper do and is it just to avoid scratches or does it increase purchase?
It’s really just to prevent scratching/marring! It does marginally improve the tool purchase, but is not necessary if your tools are in good shape.
Are those washers part of the crankset or bottom bracket?
The BB.
So technical lmao I've replaced a few of these shitty cup and cone style ones on my rusted ass ghetto commuter bike I just pour a bunch of grease in, hand screw on the caps then smash the pedals onto the square thing with a hammer
Wat pressure on the wrench on the bottom bracket?
40-50nm
Had GRX600 left crank fell off suddenly. No more than 6 months since I bought it brand new. Two bolts still intact. Lock pin broken, crank cap tension broken. Using BB-RS500. What is the cause?
The only real way that could happen is if the pinch bolts on the crank were not torqued correctly. It’s a surprisingly common error by inexperienced mechanics/bike builders
@@Jeremy_plays_sax I noticed you did not put the black plastic of the BB from the side of the chain ring crank but you put it in the side of the left arm crank. Why?
@@user-kr5hv3nx2y you can see I slide the seal onto the drive side crank spindle before installing!
@@Jeremy_plays_sax oh yes! i missed that. Why you put it like that? Any particular reason? That's part of your bottom bracket, right?
@@user-kr5hv3nx2y I do it in that order so that I can apply grease to the crank spindle without it being “squeegee’d” off by the seal. not a huge difference but it allows for a bit more lubricant to remain on the crank spindle once installed, helping to prevent seizing or creaking!
what kind of grease is this?
Looks like copper anti seize, horrible stuff though I’d be using gloves. Anti seize is for two parts touching that don’t move( bb threads, crown races etc) grease is for parts that do (hubs, bearings etc).
Is that copper grease?
(( Appears to be > for dis-similar metals. re: bb aluminum shells & frame looks to be Ti or Steel ))
Its anti-seize
It is, important to use copper or zinc paste when two dissimilar metals (in this case, titanium and aluminum) are in contact. Otherwise you’ll get really bad galvanic corrosion and the threads will seize!
A thread is a C O N N E C T I O N. It is counterproductive to grease a connection for easier loosing. There is also no grease for threads on the markets, but there are many kind of thread locker fluids on the market.
You are mistaken. Shimano (the manufacturer of the bottom bracket and crankset in this video) specifically recommend using anti seize lubricant on the bottom bracket threads.
Also, titanium and aluminum will lead to galvanic corrosion if a sufficient lubricant is not used when installing parts together.
These components are meant to be changed at regular intervals, and are a relatively high torque application. Lubricating the threads is absolutely necessary in this scenario.
If you’re interested in learning more, here’s the info direct from the manufacturer: si.shimano.com/en/dm/LAFC001/install_remove_bottom_bracket#xd_4df57c21edb0d3e8--705f08b1-17ca06b6e61--7669
The rule is:
1. threads are a conecting methods
2. never grease a connectind for better loosing.
3. If there are manufacturer specification, you have to use the specified fluid
in the quantity and specification of the manufacturer
By the way, all cars will be manufactured without any lubrication on threads.
They only use thread lock.
Amateurs put copper grease in large amounts on threads. Copper grease is heat resitance.
@@stefanrohr6475 read the MFG specs. Titanium fittings call for copper paste to prevent galvanic corrosion with other alloys.
@@stefanrohr6475 the anti seize compound I use in this video is specifically for use on threaded fittings. You can read about it here us.muc-off.com/products/anti-seize-copper-compound Hope this helps!
and at last it is nearly not rotating at all. hollowtech is shit.
People really need to get a better understanding of greased bearings. Spinning freely all day is a gimmick.