Wow, just learned more about rail shaping from watching a 10 minute youtube than multiple books, articles and conversations with other shapers. The way you demonstrate and explain it is pure gold. Thank you so much!!!
Been sweating this lately- awesome video! BTW, my relatives on Maui lent me one of your boards when I was there and it rode killer-Keep up the great work!
Thanks Matt another super helpful video 🙏. How much untouched vertical sidewall would you leave before screening on this one? And would you bring bottom tuck right up to you’re bottom boundary line (5/8”)? Cheers!
The vertical sidewall should have just enough untouched to preserve the outline. Any more sanding and you are changing the outline. Too much vertical and it feels unfinished. So the official answer is "just enough vertical" 😁
Thanks, super useful video. I would like to know where do you make the guide marks on the rail, I just can to see 1 1/8...I think. And on the bottom? Regards and thanks again.
On this particular one the guide mark is 1 1/8" on the bottom the bevel is 1/4" up the rail and 1/4" under so the band is about 1/2" wide. I don't like to make that too big because adding micro bevels to that makes a cleaner curve.
Hi Kazuma , thanks for all your great video’s. Could you do one on how you foil out and blend the nose and tail after you have cut in the 1 1/8” rail band. I am 51 shapes in and am still having trouble with my technique. Thanks again for all your help.
@@kazumasurfboards I have been putting a mark of 3/4" at 1ft. N and 1ft. T . Then I blend to my mark. It seems to work for me at the tail, but at the nose, since there is way more curve it seems to not work as well.
i have a 6 10 blank with 2 inches of rocker 12 inches from tip of nose should i be cutting that blank down to give one and a half inches 12 inches from nose for a better rocker? thanks in advance your a genius
I have a board with the rails I like what’s best method to make rail gauge , I saw you use wire , I tried fence tying wire aluminum but it keeps bending back and doesn’t hold shape of the rail exactly . Is there different method and do you have different rails on different types boards cuz when I surf boards with thicker rails it doesn’t turns as well as use like
Greetings and thanks for the video. Can you please elaborate a bit on what you meant by, this measurement method won't necessarily work on like a poly blank (@ 2:46)?
What I meant was a square block like this, your angles and measurement of the bevel can be planned in advance but on a poly or foiled eps the actual thickness on the rail will vary greatly depending on the blank you choose or the outline that you use
Awesome video as always! Quick question: in the video "Quick Kazuma rail shape demonstration" you mention that you usually use 1"1/8 scribe line for pretty much all non-SUP boards. In this video, you start from the apex (3/4) and set you scribe line a 1/4 above, getting the magic 1" 1/8 number! Is that a coincidence? In other word, do 3/4 apex and 1" 1/8 scribe line work more or less all the time? Cheers
1 1/8" works on most performance rails. If you are referencing a good rail then you find the height of the apex and add 1/4" and that will be your scribe line.
Wow, just learned more about rail shaping from watching a 10 minute youtube than multiple books, articles and conversations with other shapers. The way you demonstrate and explain it is pure gold. Thank you so much!!!
I am happy to hear that, thank you
Looks really good I’ll mix some of this in with some of my old ways
Been sweating this lately- awesome video! BTW, my relatives on Maui lent me one of your boards when I was there and it rode killer-Keep up the great work!
Busting out the geometry lesson 👍
Another super useful video. Cheers man!
PS. Camera sideways :P
Hell ya brother.
Thanks Matt another super helpful video 🙏. How much untouched vertical sidewall would you leave before screening on this one? And would you bring bottom tuck right up to you’re bottom boundary line (5/8”)? Cheers!
The vertical sidewall should have just enough untouched to preserve the outline. Any more sanding and you are changing the outline. Too much vertical and it feels unfinished. So the official answer is "just enough vertical" 😁
kazumasurfboards Thankyou brother 🤙🤙
Thanks, super useful video. I would like to know where do you make the guide marks on the rail, I just can to see 1 1/8...I think. And on the bottom?
Regards and thanks again.
On this particular one the guide mark is 1 1/8" on the bottom the bevel is 1/4" up the rail and 1/4" under so the band is about 1/2" wide. I don't like to make that too big because adding micro bevels to that makes a cleaner curve.
Hi Kazuma , thanks for all your great video’s. Could you do one on how you foil out and blend the nose and tail after you have cut in the 1 1/8” rail band. I am 51 shapes in and am still having trouble with my technique. Thanks again for all your help.
Yes, that is an important video as the ends are the part that has the most artist input and is usually finished by hand and eye.
@@kazumasurfboards I have been putting a mark of 3/4" at 1ft. N and 1ft. T . Then I blend to my mark. It seems to work for me at the tail, but at the nose, since there is way more curve it seems to not work as well.
@@jeffmartinez7724 that is a great way to do it
It’s like you know exactly what I need help with! Do you just like to thin out and blend in the nose and tail with surform and sandpaper?
Yes, just thin the ends with a surform or sanding block to your personal preference.
No he uses a drum tool sanding barrel or the planer .......
Pull the planer back from 18 " from zero To full towards the nose ....on the deck....in a smooth motion...to get the curve .
i have a 6 10 blank with 2 inches of rocker 12 inches from tip of nose should i be cutting that blank down to give one and a half inches 12 inches from nose for a better rocker? thanks in advance your a genius
Depends on what style of board you are after. On a 6'10, 2" of rocker at 13" from the nose is fine
I have a board with the rails I like what’s best method to make rail gauge , I saw you use wire , I tried fence tying wire aluminum but it keeps bending back and doesn’t hold shape of the rail exactly . Is there different method and do you have different rails on different types boards cuz when I surf boards with thicker rails it doesn’t turns as well as use like
Use solder wire, it holds shape perfectly
Much mahalos for help will try it
How much do you estimate to minus for glassing if I measure a glassed board
Greetings and thanks for the video. Can you please elaborate a bit on what you meant by, this measurement method won't necessarily work on like a poly blank (@ 2:46)?
What I meant was a square block like this, your angles and measurement of the bevel can be planned in advance but on a poly or foiled eps the actual thickness on the rail will vary greatly depending on the blank you choose or the outline that you use
Where do you get that bendable wire with memory for the rails?
I think some thick soldering wire should work well for this.
Awesome video as always! Quick question: in the video "Quick Kazuma rail shape demonstration" you mention that you usually use 1"1/8 scribe line for pretty much all non-SUP boards. In this video, you start from the apex (3/4) and set you scribe line a 1/4 above, getting the magic 1" 1/8 number! Is that a coincidence? In other word, do 3/4 apex and 1" 1/8 scribe line work more or less all the time? Cheers
1 1/8" works on most performance rails. If you are referencing a good rail then you find the height of the apex and add 1/4" and that will be your scribe line.
@@kazumasurfboards hi Kazuma, what inclination is the first shape? 45 degrees? Thanks
The cameraman could have gotten a little closer.