After a battle I had to change things up!! It's going to be great!!
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- Опубліковано 9 лют 2025
- Sometimes no matter how hard you try an engine just wont fit!!
#1936ford #engineswap #prostreet #scalemodels #modelcarvideos #modelcarpaint #diypaintbooth #modelbuildingtips #amtmodelkits #revellmodel #mpcmodel #tamiyamodel #carshow #mcwpaint
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Nice choice to build. This one is definitely going to take a while. Just hammer through it, and it will come out really nice. Thanks for sharing.
Merry Christmas Matt to you and your family. Thanks for the great content this year!!!
I work on two and three models at a time. You got this!
You can probably mount the alternator up high because there is probably a lot of clearance above the engine.
It will be a nice build. You may look at chassis from Revell 37 Ford convertible or the Testors/ Lindburg 37 Fords.
I had the same thought.
The problem with using 37 Ford passenger car chassis in this 36 is that this is the AMT 36 Ford in 1/25. The 37 Ford passenger cars are Monogram 1/24 scale. Yeah, they've been sold under the Revell brand, but they were designed and tooled by Monogram that does 1/24. The Revell 37 Ford Pickup and Panel Delivery kits are 1/25 scale. Monogram did a 36 Ford Coupe that is nearly identical to the AMT. But the Monogram is 1/24.
I wanted to use the MCV 351 in my current 49 Ford. Even with scratch building engine bay and firewall. It’s too big. Using a SBF Cobra instead.You’ll figger it out.👍. Welcome to the kitbash rabbit hole.😁🐰. 👏👏. The underside gaps make a template with .010” sheet filler plates . Use putty or sprue goo and sand. I’ve shelved a few that didn’t work out. But I have fun trying 🎉. Fabrication is the fun part for me. 16:20
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This build is looking good Matt. I know you will figure this one out. I'm sure many of the guys in our community can give you some good direction on this one. Keep us posted.
I like your new engine choice! The alt. can be located down low next to the oil pan or up high as in a serpentine belt system. I've even seen alternators driven from the drive shaft. About the frame.....If it were me....I'd remove the remaining 'floor pan' material and fab a frame to join the tub and existing frame rails together, then fab up a floor pan from flat styrene stock. It will take some trial and error, but I think you can successfully use thin styrene sheet material to form/mold in the wheel well areas. This will be an awesome build!!
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Matthew, right now, I am trying to replicate a truck a friend and I built in the middle 70s. My friend's dad had a late 60s Town and Country wagon with a 429CJ, C6 drive train in it. It got rear-ended at a traffic light and was toast. We were in the process of pulling the 29 and 6 when I looked at a Ford Courier truck. We'll, you guessed it! Out came the cutting torches, and the fun began! It ended up with a straight front axle, and we narrowed the 9 inch out of the wagon. It was a good thing the trans was an automatic because there was no room for a clutch pedal. The trans tunnel was made from a kid's wheelbarrow tub. We got it finished, and it was a blast of a fun nightmare to drive! Gassers were still in the recent memory of racers, and this walked the walk! The thing wasn't any trailer queen, but it was nice enough to show. The last I knew, it went out to Oklahoma somewhere after college was over.
So that's my rabbit hole right now. One of your 429 kits fit. I made a straight axle, but that may get replaced with one of your kits also.
I originally was going to build one of those late 70s U-Haul mini movers with one of those resin bodies, but the body was way out of square and too big all around.
Will the truck be at a show?
No.
Does it give me something to take my mind off of my worries?
Yes.
All I know is it was a heck of a lot easier doing the real thing.
Man, those were the days!
Cheers
Terry
I like the direction you’re going with the motor 💯🔥🙌🏾
Thanks for sharing Matthew. On the plus side, switching engines is easy for you since you print them. Scratch/Bash builds always takes what seems like forever to finish. Don't give up, you can do it! 👍👍
The size difference between a Ford Windsor and a Ford Cleveland is pretty much entirely due to the bigger Cleveland heads. Very large ports in the Cleveland heads and the header flange location being further out is what makes the difference.
I used a small block Ford and spliced in NASCAR front end , I believe your on the right track!!!! Brad
Thanks Brad!!
For reference, at the point of me making a comment haven't watched the video through yet. I will give a tip of the day on a kitbash for the chassis. The Revell '37 Ford sedan in orange as a Fat Fender makes for a better detailed chassis for a car like your 36. If you use the cabriolet, you may be able to use some of the interior parts in the AMT '36 coupe, just guessing. I built and AMT '40 coupe with updates the Revell chassis provides, and also have the Corvette rearend as a donor for a next possibility of a future build. I built my '40 coupe with donor ladder bars and a NASCAR 9" rearend for a lowered sleeper painted turquoise. I appreciate your builds and involving your family with the hobby. I hope y'all have a great Christmas and future!
Revell Baja Bronco for correct rear sump SBF oil pan, or use a reversed Shelby Mustang pan with a larger sump. The reason for the Cleveland heads were partially because the had splayed intake and exhaust valve to make the heads flow better than parallel Windsor, i.e. 221 up to 351 Windsor heads. I'm a mechanic and have scars from Exacto blades and a love of kitbashing model cars and big trucks.
Hey you might be able to form your tub surround out of .010 styrene just a thought you could heat and form them
I replied the same before seeing your comment. Lol
If he were using the Monogram 36 Ford Coupe in 1/24 scale, those other chassis would work. But Monogram never did a 5 Window Coupe. Only a 3 Window. So this HAS to be the AMT 1/25 body. The Revell 40 Coupe chassis is more detailed and is 1/25 scale.
The Clevelands were awesome motors! I believe I need to order one for my 32 roadster pickup.
cool update good luck
Great content!!! Much appreciated!! Your great!!!!!👍 👌 👍
I would sand the tubs and fender edges where you cut smooth then use sheet styrene strip to fill the gap brother. 😊
Stay positive, you will figure it out.
You can put alternator off rear end,you can Graff to fenders.
Matthew, if you do decide to not continue on it, don't throw it away. Give it to someone else who could finish it, like your friend Jimmy. 😊
I have a kit like that also.started it a couple years ago, ughh. Once in a while I pull it off the shelf and do something positive with it. Slow but sure! It's ok.
Will the Revell 37 ford chassis fit under it? It has a-arm front suspension. The chassis frame rails should have the same contour
They work great under it
That’s good to know. I have a 36 too. Now I’ll be on the lookout for the 37
@ does the wagon rod fit under it?
I built that kit and I used the 390 out of the AMT 34 Ford pick up(the 390 out of the 62 or 64 T bird will work. You may have to use the kits' transmission
Looking good so far 😎😁
Sweet 351 motors diggin the Webber carbs as for the Cleavland 64/65 Comet 😁🤩scooter 😎ps never give up chasin that wasgwee rabbit you got dis🤣🤗🎄
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Don’t give up Matthew! I’ve got a couple spare frames if you need them. I can mail them to ya!
Cut in to the frame & firewall if you have to . Make it a ratrod , that’s is what I would do lol
Eventually I want to get the Gasser front end and the hemi and do a 41 Plymouth Gasser.
The 3d parts look great.😊
You will get there just need to be patience. All my are shelf queen so it would only be me to know what the bottom looks like..
I feel your struggle Matthew. I have probably twelve builds back in boxes waiting to get going again because of this exact situation, one of them is this same kit. I also have over a thousand sitting here I want to start. I would advise sticking with it or it will sit in a box for years maybe until you get back to it, just like the dozen or so like mine. Every time I try to do just an out of box build it always ends up going off the path.
As far as the underside? Depends on the show it gets showed at. I have seen awards for builds that are basically a curbside with no chassis at all under it. How strong is your conscience and what will it let you live with?
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Maybe cut the rear wheel wells out and replace them using sheet styrene. I’m creating a lot of work for myself on the USACC build. 😂 Peace and love.
Mount the rear end in and i think you will get motived
It's still an update video Matt. I know if you keep at it you will get it. But if by some very slim chance you decide to abandon it let me know and I will buy everything you have for the kit and finish it. I love challenging rojects lol. But i have faith you.
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Put the Cleveland in a fox body
Matt it will be okay to set it aside. I’ve been working on an old AMT 37 Chevy custom that I’m having the same problem with but mine is the body. I’ve cut that thing up so much trying to put the body back together is driving me crazy. Engine and chassis is complete but that body. 😣. I’ve set it aside and will get it out again to get back too it. Model on buddy you’re doing a great job. We all have to juggle our time to get on the bench. Jeff of the North
Thanks Jeff!!
Don't throw it away. I have something that may help you out. I'll get it in the mail as soon as I print it.
There's a challenge for your audience. Put more minds on it. See what some one out there can come up with. Redesigning the frame is a good start. Set further back into the firewall?🧐🧐
Wow Mathew I just built 5 complete models already
Mathew
Matthew in the 1×1 36 Ford you can't do a big block and retain your stock frame fender assembly fire wall etc now for a thought take a look at the early edition of Revell Lil John Buttera tall T you could make it work for your 36 it is set up for a hipo 289 I think Your ideal for the small block with Webbers is where it's at anyway just a thought
Umm as Far as Your Alternator Goes You Can Mount it On The Frame & Connect it to The Driveshaft ,,,, 🤔🤔 ,, You CAN DDOOOOOIIITTT Matthew ‼️‼️ Can't Wait to See The "FINAL" On This Baby. GBA 🙏🤗 Gary.
I double dog dare you to put that 351 in a chevy
Lol!!
1953 - 56 Ford pickup makes a great place to put a 351C. I have a 1956 with a Cleveland with cast iron four barrel heads. It fills up the engine bay and every body ask what big block Ford is it. I always think of the FE motors as big blocks.
Cut equal lengths of styrie 4 backhalf end to save the 1934 Ford model kit from the trash bin?
When ! , Think you may just need to put the short headers on there and work from that as for the back you can fill it end with evergreen sheet ,what ever you end up with I am sure it will come out nice ,hey remember the first one you tub out you used a coke car I think maybe go that way thanks for the look
Wonder if the chassis from the Lindberg 38' Ford Panel Van would work under that body. The rear would have to be modified though for Pro Street.
Would like to meet you and chat about models.are you in Florida
Maybe the chassis from the pro street Willy's coupe work
Big block/small block are slang that refer to different engine architecture among manufacturers(Ford, Chevy and Mopar). There are 396 big blocks and 400 small blocks, etc. The terms only really apply to Ford, Chevy and Mopar because they are the only ones who had totally different V8's concurrently. Olds 260 is the same engine architecture as the 455. Cadillac 368 is the same as the 500, etc. So there is no small block/big block in BOP/C, etc...
You need to make the underside look as good as the topside. It's what one would call pride in their work. And I guess you either have it or you don't.
Put it together with no engine, rust it like it's in a junk yard. Not all builds need to look like a new car. It takes more skill to make it look old and rusted, just my opinion.
351 is the same 302 boss motor.
I’ve looked at your products. When I looked at engines, they say 1/25 - 1/24 scale. I believe, but not sure, the engines are in printed in 1/24 scale.
If so it’s going to be a bit bigger, right. So a true 1/25 scale might fit better in a 1/25 scale model?
Technically, the "big block" designation was based on cubic inch and the "break point" between big block and small block was 400 cubic inch. Anything larger than 400 cubic inch was considered a "big block". What you do post production, i.e. aftermarket boring and stroking, is irrelevant.
The fun part is when Chevy released the 400 cubic inch engine based on the small block platform, so Chevy offered both a 400 cubic inch big block and a completely different 400 cubic inch small block. Can't imagine why you'd be confused. 🤣😂🤣
can i ask what 3d printer you're using?
As I age, I appreciate clean, almost box-stock builds much more these days..... 🙂🙂🙂🙂
Matthew hello look at r e v e l l 37 Ford Street Rod for a chassis Matthew good luck with your business