Fantastic instructional video. When using 1/4" cement board I have used roofing nails which were what they call dipped. They are not smooth like regular roofing nails. They have rough edges to secure to the floor. Work best on 1/4" not 1/2". Of course they are getting hard to find except a supply house. Love the importance of the gap on large floor areas as well. Leaving the area of the cabinets to use the 3/4 is always a great way to lay out unless choosing to run the cement board over the complete area. Sometimes if you are tight for a height measurement because of a pantry cabinet and soffits, like remodel jobs, this is important to know when designing the kitchen or bath project. From experience, not fun modifing a cabinet especially if it's a full overlay door style. Can't wait to see the next stage. Great job Josh. 👍🏻
I will do more research on the nails you are referring to. Sounds like it could be a quicker method which time is important. It seems like a lot of material is getting hard to fine lately. I’m thinking since they have raise interest rates it might slow the market down some so materials should be easier to get. Yes you got to think about expansion and covering large floors. Small bathroom so I don’t really worry about it, but large kitchens are definitely do. That’s a good point about the height if height is an issue. Obviously in this case it is not but I could see you in a remodel it would be something to think about. I do look forward to making videos just to see the comments. Thanks for commenting and watching David!
Awesome Job and very helpful for a first timer!! the tool they sell at your hardware store is a joke I imagine it would take 40 passes to snap the board the multi tool is the way to go.
I used a leveler product to get the floor even and it is. My question is do i need cement board then tile or can i lay tile right on top of the leveler product? Thanks for the help.
Great content and love the way you explain. How much will you save avoiding to put tile all the way to the wall (under the cabinets I mean)? That will require the cabinets to be the exact size you end the tiles at and later if there are more renovations and the cabinet sizes are a little bit longer, it would make it very tricky, won't it?
I appreciate that! I enjoy passing along the information I know about construction. As far as the tile under the cabinets goes, if you remodeled you could always extend the tile then but with a new house that is rarely in the plans to have to worry about down the road. Obviously it is something that is going to happen one day but you may also not move the cabinets even if you did remodel. Hope that helps!
@@TheExcellentLaborer only issue is the same tile/design might not be available after 20 or so years. I faced this issue in my condo, it wasn't fun searching. Cabinets can sit on top of the finished tile and 3 or 4 tiles that go under the cabinet doesn't cost that much :)
Nice to see this comment. I was sweating this floor as i did not use thin set. I did however lay down screws every 5 inches square. Also laid down red guard over the subfloor and again over the cement board. Time will tell.
It helps prevent moisture from getting in from my understanding and helps with a the bond and filling in small unlevel spots. I'm not 100% sure though. That's is just speculation.
Have a question, is it necessary to use thinset and nail the cemet board? Would you have to replace the subfloor down the road if you wanted to remove and replace tiles
It is necessary if you want a strong cement board floor. Typically when you remove the tile later on and it will come off of the cement board but you may have to replace the cement board but the subfloor should be fine. Hope that helps!
I have a cement slab and need to raise a room by 1/2 inch to match the adjacent room. Can i lay the cement board with thinset and no screws? I will be installing LVP over it
i have a question on the mesh tape. I read somewhere, or saw on another video to not use dry wall mesh tape. I can't recall the reasoning but i remember them saying there is a mesh specifically for cement board. is that true?
We just bought supplies for our project and looked at this. Since our area to tile is entryway with no water, we opted for cheaper cement board. Ditra ran about $2.50/ sq' whereas the board at $.30 sq'
Yes it does. If you are installing tiles 12x12= 1/4 inc of cement board is fine. But, if you are installing bigger tiles, then go 1/2 inch of cement board. For example, I'm installing a tile 16x32, that goes for 1/2 inches of cement board or plus.... If I would use 1/4 of inches for that particular tile, the cement board might crack eventually in 15years. Oh, I forgot to mention, I'm installing for the kitchen, part of the hallway and main entrance. Hope that helps somehow....
As a professional cabinet installer, I can say that it's a big mistake to install cement board or tile before cabinets. Because for installation of base cabinets, need a space for use a tool and shims. So if you do installation of cement boards, you should do it after the cabinets installed or cover with cement board entire floor. Otherwise you don't care other trades.
@@UnknownUnknown-vv6hb I haven’t had any issue, but I’ve worked with people who do both ways and both seem to work, thin-set under the board may help in the long run but I’d have no evidence to prove it.
Cement board is never to be used as underlayment on tile floors. Uncoupling membrane is so far superior for the life of the tile and ease of installing. You have many very good videos but this is not one.
Why are you cutting cement boards with a power tool and create so much dust? You can just score it with utility knife and break it. Then flip it and cut through the break line with the knife. No mess and so much faster...
The intro was a huge help for me.
You're a blessed man Josh. Thanks for the short & clear details 👌
I appreciate that Mohamed! I am blessed to have a great viewers like you watching my channel. Good luck with your project!
Fantastic instructional video. When using 1/4" cement board I have used roofing nails which were what they call dipped. They are not smooth like regular roofing nails. They have rough edges to secure to the floor. Work best on 1/4" not 1/2". Of course they are getting hard to find except a supply house. Love the importance of the gap on large floor areas as well. Leaving the area of the cabinets to use the 3/4 is always a great way to lay out unless choosing to run the cement board over the complete area. Sometimes if you are tight for a height measurement because of a pantry cabinet and soffits, like remodel jobs, this is important to know when designing the kitchen or bath project. From experience, not fun modifing a cabinet especially if it's a full overlay door style.
Can't wait to see the next stage. Great job Josh. 👍🏻
I will do more research on the nails you are referring to. Sounds like it could be a quicker method which time is important. It seems like a lot of material is getting hard to fine lately. I’m thinking since they have raise interest rates it might slow the market down some so materials should be easier to get. Yes you got to think about expansion and covering large floors. Small bathroom so I don’t really worry about it, but large kitchens are definitely do. That’s a good point about the height if height is an issue. Obviously in this case it is not but I could see you in a remodel it would be something to think about. I do look forward to making videos just to see the comments. Thanks for commenting and watching David!
Timeless Educational Content, Thanks
Check out the snapper shear pro for cutting cement board. less messy, quicker, and cuts turns well
I actually use a sawzall for cutting cement board, its really fast and actually makes a lot less dust.
Doesn’t the expansion joint get filled with thinset and therefore be made ineffective?
Also, always use the torx head bits they drive so much better than phillips head.
If you use torx screws after thinset the heads will be cover, how will you ever take them out in a near future?
Awesome Job and very helpful for a first timer!!
the tool they sell at your hardware store is a joke I imagine it would take 40 passes to snap the board the multi tool is the way to go.
Gracias!!! Excelente video para my first time doing flooring.
Great! I’m glad this video is helpful for you. I enjoy doing Flooring. It’s nice to look back at it when you are done. Thanks for watching!
I used a leveler product to get the floor even and it is. My question is do i need cement board then tile or can i lay tile right on top of the leveler product? Thanks for the help.
Great content and love the way you explain.
How much will you save avoiding to put tile all the way to the wall (under the cabinets I mean)? That will require the cabinets to be the exact size you end the tiles at and later if there are more renovations and the cabinet sizes are a little bit longer, it would make it very tricky, won't it?
I appreciate that! I enjoy passing along the information I know about construction. As far as the tile under the cabinets goes, if you remodeled you could always extend the tile then but with a new house that is rarely in the plans to have to worry about down the road. Obviously it is something that is going to happen one day but you may also not move the cabinets even if you did remodel. Hope that helps!
@@TheExcellentLaborer only issue is the same tile/design might not be available after 20 or so years. I faced this issue in my condo, it wasn't fun searching. Cabinets can sit on top of the finished tile and 3 or 4 tiles that go under the cabinet doesn't cost that much :)
Thank you for posting your videos. They have helped me learn how to do my kitchen tile, and I’m excited to try. :)
Thanks
Sure! Thanks for watching!
I see no reason to use thinset under the backer when you use so many screws to fasten the backer to subfloor.
Nice to see this comment. I was sweating this floor as i did not use thin set. I did however lay down screws every 5 inches square. Also laid down red guard over the subfloor and again over the cement board. Time will tell.
Always recommended to use thinset underneath.
the manufacture says to put thinset underneath
It helps prevent moisture from getting in from my understanding and helps with a the bond and filling in small unlevel spots. I'm not 100% sure though. That's is just speculation.
Every single manufacturer REQUIRES it
the cabnet guy will appreciate the built up sub floor
Have a question, is it necessary to use thinset and nail the cemet board? Would you have to replace the subfloor down the road if you wanted to remove and replace tiles
It is necessary if you want a strong cement board floor. Typically when you remove the tile later on and it will come off of the cement board but you may have to replace the cement board but the subfloor should be fine. Hope that helps!
I don't understand why you need thinset and screws. How is it moving with either screws or thinset? Thanks
Not sure either honestly I typically use fiber rock just needs to be screwed but storea don't carry it anymore
Actually now that I think about it it's probably so it's just even
Have you don’t it without thinset under the cement board? Thinking abt doing tiles but don’t know if just screws is good enough floor is pretty even
I like how you pointed out the 201 for those that dont know about that special number 🤫
Awesome. Thank
You’re welcome, Justin!
I needed this!
Awesome! I’m so glad I could help you. Hope your project goes well!
Can you red guard the cement board ? How is it waterproof???
Is 1/4” cement board enough? I hear people saying you need 1/2” for floors
Depends on your subfloor.. generally, 1/4 is enough
I have a cement slab and need to raise a room by 1/2 inch to match the adjacent room. Can i lay the cement board with thinset and no screws? I will be installing LVP over it
Hello there, quick question….. I have a osb subfloor, am I suppose to use cement board in all wet areas? Is it a tile only thing?
i have a question on the mesh tape. I read somewhere, or saw on another video to not use dry wall mesh tape. I can't recall the reasoning but i remember them saying there is a mesh specifically for cement board. is that true?
Yes. It is a gray color. Something in thinset breaks down regular tape apparently.
Can you install cement board under the cabinets?
Do you need to put this if you want to tile basement slab?
Great question. I have tiled basements before right on the concrete. You do not have to use cement board. Hope that helps!
Could you have gone with Ditra uncoupling membrane instead of cement backer board?
Yes. But i think it's more cost efficient to use the backer boards
We just bought supplies for our project and looked at this. Since our area to tile is entryway with no water, we opted for cheaper cement board. Ditra ran about $2.50/ sq' whereas the board at $.30 sq'
Getting ceramic, doni need this?
Does it matter what side of the board is down on the floor?
It does not matter (according to the Durock FAQ / info sheet)
Yes it does. If you are installing tiles 12x12= 1/4 inc of cement board is fine. But, if you are installing bigger tiles, then go 1/2 inch of cement board. For example, I'm installing a tile 16x32, that goes for 1/2 inches of cement board or plus....
If I would use 1/4 of inches for that particular tile, the cement board might crack eventually in 15years. Oh, I forgot to mention, I'm installing for the kitchen, part of the hallway and main entrance.
Hope that helps somehow....
Don't you need to spray water and damp the sub floor before you add the unmodified mortar??
I think he added modified thin set
You should wet the plywood before...you don't want the mortar to dry to fast
As a professional cabinet installer, I can say that it's a big mistake to install cement board or tile before cabinets. Because for installation of base cabinets, need a space for use a tool and shims. So if you do installation of cement boards, you should do it after the cabinets installed or cover with cement board entire floor. Otherwise you don't care other trades.
Nonsense. If you don't cover your gaps, you are just saying "the painter will catch that" without having the courage to actually say it.
porcelain vs ceramic tile
👍🏿
Thanks Brandon!
Thinset is wet and damages your plywood. Screw down is all you need
That’s what I was wondering. I’ve done small thinset in the joints or low spots in the cement board but never under the cement board
False....
@@LogosFarmhave you had any problems with not using thinset under the cement boards?
@@UnknownUnknown-vv6hb I haven’t had any issue, but I’ve worked with people who do both ways and both seem to work, thin-set under the board may help in the long run but I’d have no evidence to prove it.
Why do you have to put thin set under the cement board in a kitchen floor.
Insurance purposes 😂
It prevents the cement board from flexing into low spots.
Because you need if you want to be sure you floor will be not fail 😊
Cement board adds no structural integrity to your floor. 1/2" or 1/4" doesn't matter as far as strengthening the subfloor. FYI
All these ads/commercials, I lost my steam
Cement board is never to be used as underlayment on tile floors. Uncoupling membrane is so far superior for the
life of the tile and ease of installing. You have many very good videos but this is not one.
It also costs much more. Options.
Why are you cutting cement boards with a power tool and create so much dust? You can just score it with utility knife and break it. Then flip it and cut through the break line with the knife. No mess and so much faster...