DIOR WAS GOOD AND NO I WASN'T KIDNAPPED (Fall 2022 Haute Couture Fashion Week Review)
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- Опубліковано 13 вер 2024
- The Dior Haute Couture collection by Maria Grazia Chirui was surprisingly good. Collaborating with Olesia Trofymenko, a Ukrainian artist, on her "Tree of Life" graphics was an intelligent way to incorporate her usual artist collaborations with something more serious. She referenced a lot of Ukrainian folk clothing, and did so pretty well, giving the homely embroidery the Parisian touch. While she still lacked the exaggerated proportions of Christian Dior, which is always a letdown, the collection fared quite well for one of the first times.
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“Dior was good” sounds exactly like something you would say if you were kidnapped and needed to let us know 🧐
Deadass 🤣🤣🤣
Clap once and wink if you need help
Where is Luke and what did you do to him? This one is obviously a deep fake.
😂
This time Dior was actually good, just compare it to Chanel this season lol
I think Maria Grazia just needs a theme, otherwise she falls flat on her face. Also lovely to see so many Ukrainians here! I have a Ukrainian maternal grandfather, so seeing all the references was lovely.
This collection by Dior really warms my heart as a ukrainian, seeing how howadays ukrainian culture is at risk of being destroyed. I love the subtle nods to our native dress and embroidery motifs, without borderline cultural appropriation. And also big thanks to you for the amount of research you've done about Ukraine's history of fashion.💙💛
I think it’s a great sign for the designer if people from that culture find it more on the cultural appreciation side instead of appropriation. I’m so sorry for what’s happening to your culture and I hope it isn’t destroyed. It’s a beautiful culture
💙💛🇺🇦🇺🇦
Honest questioning, sorry if I sound ignorant but did the collection really use elements of Ukrainian culture? Like some of the coats did but the rest I felt like were elements also found in Scandinavian attire from similar periods. I just feel that ysl’s collection was a better representation of Eastern European attire but you lmk.
@@josephc8752 I'm not am expert by any means but iv always noticed similarities between Ukrainian folk wear and Sandinavian folk wear
@@raincloudsradio8900 which is only logical, since Kyiv Rus novelty were of Scandinavian descent.
As Ukrainian I am so thankful to Dior for bringing our national vibes to the collection💙💛
Honest questioning, sorry if I sound ignorant but did the collection really use elements of Ukrainian culture? Like some of the coats did but the rest I felt like were elements also found in Scandinavian attire from similar periods
@@josephc8752 yes - coming from a romanian since we have similar attire
I wouldn’t classify these looks as ‘couture’ but as ready to wear they’re actually quite good! I would definitely wear a lot of these pieces!
No one is/was classifying these as 'couture' -- this is the 2022-2023 _Haute_ Couture Collection.
The hand embroidered elements and custom fittings are what require them to be couture. Couture doesn't always have to have the kind of over the top artistic experience you get from Schiaparelli or Gautier.
“I am the conductor.” Brb, dying. No one balances respect and shade so exquisitely as Luke Marr. 🖤
I've been a little disappointed with the last few collections, but I really liked this one! As someone who sews with a lot of historical techniques, it's always so neat to see such beautiful embroidery and smocking!
I’ve come to realize that Dior under Maria Grazia Chiuri is like a scale that is always slightly balanced towards the bad side-
for every little good thing she does (like the Couture Collection) she does something really bad (like stealing the traditional Chinese MaMian skirt and branding it as Dior’s own invention in her ready to wear) lol😅😅
Yes! I was looking for a comment about the mamianqun.
Learned about the mamian skirt news due to the cdramas channel AvenueX. The construction similarities are too much imo to not even give an “inspired by____” mention in the item description.
Never a good look for an international brand to not consider having multiple eyes look over an item before releasing something that infringes on any culture’s historical/ traditional clothing.
love from China!We love our own cultures.It's such a shame that they stole it without any apologize!
@@titanialee8430 lol. The irony of that. Heaven forbid someone copy from China. 😂
Nice! One thing though, a lot of the stuff you're calling 'braid' would be better categorised as smocking, which as far as I know is also a very popular technique in Ukrainian and other Eastern European folk dress. I highly recommend looking it up! Its done by gathering up fabric and then embroidering on top of those gathers. It can be really intricate and pretty, and you can create really interesting patterns and textures
yea! also found in English peasant wear, a concept sadly lost, unlike Ukraines beautiful folk wear. closest you can get to the idea of english folk clothing is hobbit clothes. my mum can smock, it is beautiful on baby clothing for special occasions. special machines speed up the gathering process.
Honestly was feeling a bit under the weather today,now that Luke has uploaded makes the day a little better.
Same 🥲
Ok, normally these shows are full of "art peices" I would never want to actually wear. (Make for some nice eye candy tho!) This stuff I actually want!
simple, and elegant. what dior is meant to be. hopefully we keep moving in the right direction
Maria Grazia had an allergic reaction and accidentally sneezed out a good collection
it was monkey pox
I also loved the collection. It was obvious that it was designed by a woman for women to actually wear. Quiet luxury. Soft applause. 🐇 👏🏼
As much as I love watching you hate on bad fashion, I love watching you enjoy fashion even more.
I find this extremely wearable, which is interesting since haute couture
I concur!
4:13 This style of a coat reminded me a lot of the soviet overcoat (even Russia's Imperial times, when Ukraine was a part of it ). The original name is Shinyel(Шинель), there are lots of variations and styles of it, the Dior's variation really goes back to the 18th-19th century, where peasants would wear shabby overcoats, mostly made from sheepskin. Most people could not afford buttons and exquisite stitching, the coats would look rough and bulky, usually tied with a belt made from leftover skin and I think Dior's version could reference exactly that.
why i have a feeling you're from russia
Thank you for this detail 💗
That beige gown with geometric braiding really was lovely, especially the skirt. Not sure about the sleeves, they feel a little awkward. The two panelled coats though, wow! Inspiring for home projects.
I appreciated some of the more vibrant looks, but had a hard time getting into the washed out ones. The Ukrainian references were kind of a two-fer: very timely support for the current Ukrainian efforts and overall culture; and a way to present a more cohesive, interesting collection. I do wonder about Luke being kidnapped, though…
This was a very good collection, although a bit commercial for Haute Couture. But this will sell fantastically and make Dior a ton of money. I like the subtle influence of traditional Ukrainian culture a lot🇺🇦
I love the simplicity of the garment and the elegance of the embroidery. It's about time we got to see excellent embroidery shine. I would invest in some of these.
The Ukrainian theme is patriotic well-executed and simply lovely. I like the dark and bold colored pieces the best in this collection.
Hi Luke, would love to hear your thoughts on the Mamianqun, Dior skirt issue! A skirt from Dior’s new ready to wear collection bears striking similarity in appearance and structure as the historical Chinese garment, the mamian skirt. Dior did not acknowledge that this design was inspired by the Chinese garment, instead calling it a “hallmark Dior silhouette” and “new elegant and modern variation” when it is in fact based on a Chinese garment with a long history. If you would like more info, UA-camrs Shiyin and AvenueX have videos up on the issue.
As a Ukrainian I love this collection! We have such a rich culture and I love seeing it represented, especially the heavy embroidery ❤️
💗
The coat with pannels was beautiful, I wish the idea would have been explored more. After watching the entire video that's what is most memorable
Loved the use of guipure and embroidery in this collection. And wow was that third jacket just stunning. You can clearly see the reference to the ukrainian tree of life motif, but it also echoes woodcut design. I've been quietly speculating that we're going to start seeing a resurgence of medieval design and silhouette references, and I think this will lead nicely into that.
That black scoop-neck dress at 5.18 is so pretty!
I can't get enough of your videos; the commentary is so intriguing and well-written/spoken. Probably 80% of what I know about brands, I learned from your channel or books mentioned in your channel, and I don't own a single branded item from these haute fashion, but the history is so intriguing.
i'm a ukrainian and it's so heartwarming to see people celebrating our beautiful clothing and textile traditions
The beige dresses with embroidery are BEAUTIFUL and subtle enough they don’t looks like costumes. Gorgeous
I'm Ukrainian and its so amazing to see my culture being acknowledged! Dior has created a beautiful collection. Thank you Luke for highlighting this collection at you channel and for doing all of this research and showing pictures of beautiful Ukrainians in their national costumes. It warms my heart so much! Glory to Ukraine💙💛
💙💛
this title got me interested, i must say
I so appreciate your deep analytical skills dude. Such a great watch
This is exactly what Dior would make you say if they *have* kidnapped you, Luke just like this comment or double-blink in the next video or something to give us a sign and we'll come rescue you!
LOL! 🤭😄
Luke, as a very long-time Ukrainian follower I want to applaud you on the amount of thoughtful research you did into the traditional ukrainian dress. Fantastic work, truly appreciate it
The "smocking" of the fabric created the gathering which was breathtaking.
I actually loved this collection
I really enjoyed the way this video was edited. Feels different, fresh and fun. Thank you for always sharing your hard work with us.
Be safe! 💖
The Ukranian folk costumes and the YSL collections at Dior are 10 times more interesting than the beige dresses and the bland jackets at Grazia's Dior.
While both Dior and Chanel's clothes are never groundbreaking, I have to give it to Dior for making wearable but boring clothes. You can always get at least 5 interesting looks out of MGC's collections but unless there's a lot of styling or editing, you would be hard pressed to find 5 good looks for Chanel.
Chanel's clothes regardless of their RTW or haute couture collections always looks like a fashion student with poor time management rushing before their midterm.
I had the same feeling about this collection. I liked a lot. So much detail and beauty
I did like this line as well because how it took insperation from european historical styles and being fairly modest which is my personal taste but I was wondering if you heard about the recent scandel with the dior ready to wear and how they claimed a hanfu design from the ming dynasty as a origional skirt design. It would be interesting if you talked about how common or uncommon this happens in the industry.
love from China! Thanks for your comments😘
I hope you're recovering well from the shock of liking a MGC for dior collection 😂
I thought some of the embroidery was stunning- that black dress with the white bands of embroidery- such a simple but statement piece
I think Dior this time was "acceptable", specially in comparison to MGC's lastest collections.
saw one garment from that collection on a celebrity and loved it. it had embroidery as a centrepiece. so decided to learn more. and learned why it so resonated with me - i am ukrainian and this is literally my dna. embroidery just like my grandmother did. so happy to see these creations and enjoy them
As a Ukrainian I am SO grateful to Dior right now 🥰 And I am so happy Luke liked this Dior collection 💛💙
Not sure if you take suggestions but it would be dope if you started a series (or mini series) about the unsolved mysteries of the fashion world. We all know the industry has had its fair share of dark and shady moments and I know how you love to look behind the fashion too.
Dior is so classical and detailed 🖤
Mostly loved the flowy light colors and beautiful, intricate pieces. Almost bolero shortened cropped piece i love and would probably want to modernize with a white tubey top and high waisted, wide leg slacks in cream (with that cropped jacket)..please dont gasp...like i could ever get my hands on a piece so lovely to begin with. (We werent allowed to wear anything but dresses until middle school. Slacks empower me! Wink).
Loved your prsentation it was flawless. Oh yeah the plaid suspender style, tea length with blouse underneath was amazing....
(Wish you could find that style somewhere for the average schmo -do a vintage shop finds and haul video Luke, please!)
A great video! You bring so much into your analyses in terms of knowledge and research - as well as being entertaining.
The high necked and embroidered dresses are gorgeous but I particularly love that embroidered jacket.
i’m obsessed with the 3rd gown 😭 i need it
Like you, I was very pleasantly surprised. I really enjoyed the collection. Normally those beiges taupes would not be my vibe, but she did them really well.
Love it. Your commentary is so much more than opinion, it’s educated and historical, always well done!
I just loved how you try to find references to understand certain MGC’s decisions. And having a video like this one where you comment and critic as honestly as always, saying some of it was good, just proves h0w professional you are.
Admittedly I’ve missed the full length haute couture and general snow reveiws, but I’m more than willing to support any direction this channel goes in!
I was thinking that something is not ok with me too. I like this season Dior collection.
I always wonder what the collectors and fashionista’s in a hundred years will say about this era at Dior
They sleep through it. 😅
They'll be like, oh look fall winter collections had coats, back when global warming was still under two degrees
Hey Luke 😁 could you do a video(s) like your "History of" series but about how collections are created. So we start at step 1 and go all the way until the end. Those were my fave videos of your from literally years ago (i think i was still in uni watching them as you posted) and miss them a lot!
Craftsmanship wise : Stunning and beautiful and it truly shows all the work the seamstresses and embroiderers did. However, it felt soooo repetitive and boring, same shapes, same dresses that we've seen every runway since she took over, Nothing exciting. The wallpaper was more interesting to watch then the boring looks coming down the runway. Some looks as I said looked nice but the rest was awfull.. Maria needs to go sorry.
Well Dior has a clientèle that is able to buy those clothes so obviously they have to be more wearable. Also in this day and age they better make clothes that are selling before you go bankrupt
It was boring and uninspired, as usual. Maria Grazia is a nightmare.
@@blackcat6508 That's what cruise and ready to wear shows are for, haute coutre is made to show the expertise of the seamstresses and embroiders, haute couture is meant to be an art form like the other Dior haute couture collections were back then. I suggest you go check out the origami dior couture collection they are absolutely stunning
@@wisteriafleur3522 that definition of haute couture is a bit passé, nowadays it's about money first sadly. Big hausse like Chanel, Dior, D&G,... who have sush rich clientèle obviously will take advantage of it and create their haute couture line in first instance to be worn and sold, the art comes next
@@blackcat6508 Yeah I hate to admit it but the truth hurts
Pretty nice collection ,loved the paintings on the wall 💙💛
this video is honestly so well done. thank u!!
I loved many of these! The tea color skirt, embroidered jacket and white collarless blouse is perfection.
Recently watched A LOT of your older videos... i really appreachiate you and your channel! Thank you for being and staying yourself‼💜💜
The gathering and braiding is called smocking and it is fabulous seeing the craft of mothers for their children as haute couture. We love you in New Zealand!
Wait I love the plaid look from Dior!! It’s giving Maria from Sound of Music!!
The hand work is incredible on some of those pieces!
As a fan of history bounding and high fashion, MCG seems to have done a (mostly) lovely job of combining the two.
I’d wear pieces of the collection but not styled like this. ugh. the intricate work is always appreciated.
the beige coat at 4:40 is 100 percent inspired by the fur coats the russian tsars/kings used to wear
THANK YOU, Someone who knows what they're talking about!
Thank you for the review!
I had no idea that Dior referenced Ukrainian art and costume in her new collection.
And actually, MGC did a good job utilising the silhouettes of traditional Ukrainian clothing and some technics (like those folds on the cuffs). I could literally recognise my grandma's skirt and kohta (a sort of a jacket) in one of the looks.
One slight correction on your research: red was not as widely used in Traditional Ukrainian clothing as it was shown on the photo with the cart. That photo gives you an example of so called "sharovarschyna" (from "sharovary" - traditional Turkish-style pants worn by Cossacks). Sharovarschyna is a heavily stylised and simplified version of Ukrainan attire created during the Soviet era. It is widely despised by Ukrainian traditional costume community for creating a wrong, uglier and less meaningful understanding of Ukrainan costume. Plus it is a painful reminder of the Soviet Union's attempts to undermine Ukrainian traditional culture, make it seem silly, one-dimensional and minor in a truly colonial manner. Red or even scarlet red is the favourite colour of sharovarschyna, when in reality it was impossible to get such a bright share of red with the natural dyes accessable in the Ukrainian lands before the industrialisation of the early 20 century.
Definitely really liked that panel coat :o
I am.so enjoying the ' historical ' aspects they add an entirely fresh look for someone intrigued with the why's of our behaviour & the subtle way you manage to interspersed the stroll.diwn a runway with an.understandung of " how " this outfit is intrinsically.involved with centuries of skills that are part of so many ,varied other than.apparel occupations, .
Some really beautiful garments! Love the natural colours and style.
This was one of the best collection I’ve seen this year. Love.
I loved the whole collection! One of each please...except the coats. Feed bags that swallowed the model.
Lovely things, but it was cringeworthy just because I lived through the 80’s with the ugly plaid skirts and off the rack runaway sales of the Gunne Sac brand, both of which filled my sisters closet, while I stayed far away from all of that. But this collection had so many gorgeous embroidered pieces
I love your reviews. So informative and historical knowledge.
The third dress has sleeves that, from the front, look like, what we call in the Philippines, a terno sleeve or a butterfly sleeve as it looks like a more casual version of Filipino National Dress.
Thanks Luke !! Love this collection intricate detailing but wearable ! Beautiful💝💖
Wonderful review! Thank you so much it was a joy to watch.
As a Ukrainian AND Maria Grazia critic I have to say I agree this collection was very good. Would another more talented designer have taken the references and created something better? Sure. But I’ll take what I can get from her
Please please please!!!! I’m dying to see your review for Zuhair Murad Autumn-Winter 2023 Collection.
A lot of very nice elements here. Personally would have loved to see more colorful elements! There's so much traditional embroidery that is lively and colorful and to see it all in muted beige was kind of a let down. But what do I know
Wow this collection is honestly exquisite
You're so funny. The scoping plad brown and orange dress...Sound of Music. Thanks for sharing.
6:22 Luke is critical of this red look but I find it cool that it seems to be inspired by woolen winter underwear
Luke simping for Dior you love to see it
Love the houerglass no belt idea. Thank you.
"and no I wasn't kidnapped" was the key point of clarification bahahah
Can you review the "Premios Juventud" red carpet. Your take on it will be interesting. I think you will be intrigued by the men's fashion! Big fan :)))
a great and insightful review from you again, hautelemode!
I agree I was shocked by this collection. Hopefully more of this moving forward!!!!!
I'm surprised with how many look from this collection that make me say: oh, I want that! because usually, that didn't happen with Dior . THE NO BELT really should be something MGC do all the time
could you talk about the black pleated midi skirt from her ready to wear collection? It bears a striking resemblance to the Chinese traditional 马面裙 (mamian skirt), and even the corset on the model could resemble the 主腰 (zhuyao vest) that was traditionally worn with the skirt. I don't really know what to think of it because apart from the pleating pattern the skirt from dior doesn't have any other elements in common with the mamian skirt. BUT when you put the 2 side by side the resemblance is kind of uncanny.
Is it just a pleated skirt or am I making excuses for dior?
I learned about this resemblance due to the channel AvenueX who does cdrama reviews and news though I mainly watch for their presentation style and too see how wild some show concepts go.
I am with public opinion and agree that the resemblance is there and at least for an international brand someone should have mentioned it in the item description. Opinions may vary though.
From what I have seen, there are too many similarities between this Dior skirt and the mamianqun. It is not just the look of the pleating. A feature seen exclusively in the mamian skirt is the way that the large front and back panel can completely open up. (Which made horse riding easier in the garment in ancient China). Dior’s skirt has this exact feature too. You can watch AvenueX and Shiyin’s videos on the issue to know more.
The panel coat was gorgeous
I was going to say, blink twice if you need help, but i agree with you. It wasn't great, but it was good.
Luke love love the way you report ❤️
The technique is known as smocking ( the gathering of cloth like that) and I quite likes it. I would actually wear and look good in a lot of it. Because it wasn’t girly though highly decorated.
DIOR being great sounds like a trap.
Update: I can’t with the fact that he’s right. It’s a great collection y’all saw that beautifully white jacket right?
@@HopeeInk True though, it's so beautiful and so detailed. I love it