The Vittoria Air-liners are so good. I love them. I've been running them on my road and gravel bike for a few months now and the piece of mind they offer is great. I've punctured to the point where sealant was spraying out of my tire for minutes (hilariously) and I still felt great on the bike. That was all down to Vittoria.
My (potential) problem with them is that tubeless tyres are hard to fit at the best of times. I can only think that the air-liners will make it even more difficult to fit the tyre. I mean, you need to push the bead of the tyre into to centre of the rim bed to stand the best chance of an easy fit. In your experience, how was the fitting process? (Actually that’s not my only problem, the price of the Vittoria air-liners is also ridiculous).
@@likemarksee it's actually easier since the inserts help keep the tire formed. I had huge problems with my GravelKing Panaracers (I had to inflate them with tubes and then reinstall them after the beads stretched) since the beads were so tight they wouldn't seal. With the inserts they were easier to install. Helping that is the tool that comes with the "kit" option which helps to wrench tires onto the wheel.
…i’m struggling to justify the (potential) effort and cost of fitting Vittoria air liners for the benefit that they provide. In a TT/triathlon situation you’re still likely to be way off the podium (or a PB) if the air liners come into play.
@@likemarksee I don't have any experience in those categories, so I can't help with that. In a road or gravel ride for pleasure, they're a no brainer. In a gravel race, they're a no brainer.
@@likemarksee yeah but for a multi use bike guy that may commute or what not with their bike spending a few watts on piece of mind will Ultimately make you faster in the long run
6 foot 3 inches tall is pretty large for a 56 sized frame. (unless your legs are very short) I'm "only" 6'2" tall and I ride a 59 cm, and a 60 cm frame.
For the 1st question, another option is, when getting a standard stem and bar, to get a +15 or +25 riser handlebar, they are quite common, and some even Aero (from Specialized a +25 aero one exists).
Nonsense Richard - they're not allowed to explain the normal (traditional ways) of adjusting fit on a bike... ;-) And, sadly for the person asking the question, their Canyon likely has an oversized steerer tube that makes it harder to find sensibly priced stem options. Part of me wishes they took it as a chance to highlight some of the downsides of fully integrated cockpit setups.
I have found that the larger pipe cleaners work well for cleaning a cassette. Works like the string floss but a bit easier to manipulate into the cogs.
There is a microfiber based bike "floss". They are great for removing grit from between the plates on your chain and to remove such from between the cogs on time cassette.
About spokes. My wife has a Liv and I have the equivalent Giant. She also has those flat spokes on her wheels. When she cranks it up. She certainly puts distance between us very quickly. Even allowing for all the other variables, it is noticeable. I've done triathlons (still do) and she hasn't. Sometimes we cycle to a furthest point and pub crawl on the return leg along the south coast near Brighton (we use cycle paths in case you ask). When the sun is shinning .... it is difficult to beat cycling into a sun set.
#askgcntech Hi guys, love the content and the effort you guys put into creating it all. Have been watching your vids for years now and have always wondered about the difference between entry level carbon wheels and top of the line ones. Any chance of a video comparing the two ends of the spectrum and what gains are offered by the top of the line? Cheers! Jared
Look for a rim shape that resembles a NACA profile with a wide internal width to get a smooth tyre transition. Theoretically, that will be the fastest wheel rim you can get. The other things are bladed spokes and good hubs etc
For Roy from down under, you should look at Winspace hyper wheels they carbon spokes and very stiff. I have over 7000ks on mine and no problems at all. Only 1600 AUD
If you concern about unclipping of tubeless tire, just add 1 or 2 extra layer of tubeless rim tape. Also, you probably never use foam insert in tire. Some time it's so hard to unclip, it easier to cut tire.
Have you guys seen the videos of guys using string spokes? It is so weird but they work spokes are basically not load bearing so I thing string would be lighter than even carbon spokes...just saying get out the sewing kit and save some watts lol
They work because the force of your weight on the wheel "hangs" from the spokes that are facing "up" at any given time, which is then distributed around the rim.
Hey folks. I want to upgrade my shifting to Di2 or Sram Etap. My current bike is a 2014 Orbea ORCA, pretty stock, minus a saddle and tire upgrade. Is it worthwhile to sell my current bike and get a production model with Di2/Etap or save the money and upgrade my current bike. Pros and cons of either? #AskGCNTech
#askgcntech given all variables remaining the same, what is the wattage saving between a 34mm and a 50mm deep rim when riding on a flat road (or climbing, or descending)? Assuming equivalent tyres and tubes (or tubeless), same frame, same rider, same temperature etc
at what speed? between 20km/hr-30km/hr, less than running proper pressure on your tires and above those speeds, much less than a dirty drivetrain and lowering your shoulders.
#askgcntech Hi Guys i got a question, a bit on the engineering side of things. How come some/most of the premium hubs are so loud (DT Swiss, Chris King) whilst entry level or "city bike" Hubs almost make no sound at all? I understand that the emitted noise depends on things like grease density, freewheel design, number of teeth to engage, spring tension and materials used. But off the top of my head i would assume that noise directly derives from friction in the hub, which would mean: more noise = more friction = more power lost. Which would make absolutely no sense at all for premium hubs. Could you please enlighten me? Thanks in advance!
Well you basically said it yourself with the grease. If you put more grease or a thicker grease in the freehub it will be quieter but the friction from the grease will slow the wheel down, so a louder greaseless freehub will be faster. Also I guess a lighter weight hub, lighter rim and higher spoke tension will amplify the freehub ratchet sound.
#AskGCNTech My bike currently has a long cage derailleur and 11x32 Shimano 11-speed cassette. I also have a new 11x28 Shimano 11 speed cassette in storage. Can I switch out these 11-speed cassettes and use the same chain?
One comment about Carbon spokes and normal spokes wheels, you can find good quality price wheels in the market. I saw your video of the Winspace wheels and I got a set, they are amazingly good. So not completely true that you need to sale a bony part for a wheel set with carbon spokes. Cciao 😜
RE: Bike size. I'm 5'10" tall and fit comfortably on a size 56 frame. A 6'3" rider should consider an XL or size 60 frame for a better fit. Best course is to see a bike fitter and they can recommend the proper size for you.
Absolutely - some bike frames come out slightly bigger or smaller too - a bike fit, or being able to ride the bike first from a shop is something we'd definitely recommend!
Mostly about weight. They are build with similar alloy and to similar strength requirements, but with different extrusion profile and split connection technology (welded, pinched with a hub, left open). More intricate shapes and solid connections give better stregth/weight, but ask for more precise machinery
If your handlebars are too low their is steering tube extenders that that clamp inside the steer tube they come in sizes from 3cm to 5cm theirs also the extenders that go on the outside of your steer tube but they look hideous both examples can be found on ebay and amazon
#askgcntech - hey champs! Thanks for all the great vids and advice. On a flat course which will be faster do you think - a low profile climbing wheel or 50mm deep rims that are 300g's total heavier? I know it's impossible to be exact, but what do you reckon? Cheers Dave
Is there a big difference between using 45mm wheels both in the front n rear and using a 49mm wheel in the front with a 54mm wheel in the rear? Considering both are almost similar in weight..probably a 50-100gms difference…how is climbing affected with a 54mm wheel?? 🤔 i use a factor o2
#askgcntech Hello guys , thanks for all the answers, what I would like to know is when manufacturers state how many "watts" their equipment saves ,what does that mean to me?? Because different riders of different weights and CDAs will require a different amount of watts to travel at the same speed. Please clarify this for me and other viewers so we can better quantify Aero claims made by manufacturers.?
And then if you don't ride your TT bike for a week, the tires go flat. If you don't ride it for a month, the sidewalls get damaged sitting on flat tires.
Never had a problem with latex tubes, at least my bizeps stays lean pumping up my tires every second day😅😎, the ride is really smooth tough with corsa tires, and i also like the fact that my tire pressure is exactly how it dhould be before every ride🥳
#askgcntech Hi people. Love the show. May I ask a hydraulic brake question for all those post-mount frame gravel bike ninjas out there? I have an old 2016 Cannondale CAADX frame with mechanical post-mount brake callipers (which are really awful). I'm looking to upgrade the whole groupset to modern GRX 600, but can't fit GRX callipers as they're all flat-mount only. Would Shimano post-mount mountain bike brake callipers work with GRX hydraulic shifters, and if so which one would be most suitable and are there any pitfalls in terms of hydraulic hose fittings between gravel and mountain bike standards? Best wishes, Harley
Why would you change from a short cage to a long cage rear mech if you're not changing the cassette to one with smaller gears, 30t and up? I have 11-32t and it shifts perfect with a medium cage. Weird "upgrade". They'd have to check and adjust chain length twice, once for the long cage and old cassette, and once again if they ever get the cassette that requires a long cage.
#askgcntech why is it that Ganna was DQ/got in trouble for the arranged bike swap at the Tour de la Provence, but on the ITT at the 2020 TDF on la Planche des Belle Filles lots of riders did it, including Pogacar and Roglic? Just curious as to whether there is a rule about TT's or a rule change in the last year? Many thanks :)
#AskGCNTech Hello tech experts! I got a pair of pink latex tubes. After a race, do I fold them up and keep in the drawer, or just use them till they got punctured? And if I repair punctured latex tubes, will that affect their performance? Hope this is interesting enough to get a reply ;)
I'd be careful with folding them up, I've had a tube which then got "glued" together on the inside. Inflating the tube has not helped. Anyways, I run latex tubes on my daily driver. Yes, it's annoying to regularly re-inflate them but since I use Gatorskin Hardshell tyres, I'm not worried about punctures at all.
Everybody is talking of depth, but nobody talks about spokes, hubs and bearings. Most deep carbon wheels are a carbon rim with chinesse hub with very low quality bearings and are floppy and low responsive
Aero wheels vs ceramic wheel hub bearings…what is better? I dont know should i buy wheels with ceramic hub bearings that are not aero or wheels with normal steel hub bearings and are aero. #AskGCNTech
Aero or non aero is depends on you. One thing we all have in common is the bearings. Go for non-contact sealed bearings such NTN LLB or NSK VV or equivalent. The only bike's bearing that can go full ceramic is the pulley wheels bearing. Very low load and rpm, probably is going to last a bit longer. Change the old bearing to hi-quality full ceramic NSK bearing just cost me 18usd/pc. You don't need those fancy big pulley wheels bs that cost you 300usd unless you have deep pockets.
#askgcntech Hi guys (and Mannon), how strict should one follow system wight limits for road bikes/gravel bikes? For example canyon often says the maximum system wigh safe to use is 120kg...If you you are a 2m tall rider at 100kg, on a 10kg bike (XXl bike) and maybe want to bikehiking, there wouldn't be much safe room for luggage. Or do you think those system limits are only a "guaranteed safe suggestion" and one should be fine to add some more wight?
Hi, I want to turn my brake levers inwards (Evenepoel, Campenaerts Style). Is there a trick or a right way to do it so they both have the same angle or tilt. Never seem to get it quite right… Thanks, greetings from Vienna :)
Me again. How is it that some people stay very steady in a particular zone without bouncing up and down the graphs? No matter how steady I am (constant rpm in a given gear on a flat road) I will never have a steady power graph (ERG mode off). I am using a Wahoo KICKR v5 and Zwift. #AskGCNtech
#AskGCNTech Guten Tag, i am running a 23mm Front Tire and a 25mm Back Tire on my TT Bike, both Setup With Latex inner Tubes. My question is about my spare Tube, because those are either suited for 19-23mm or 25-28 mm. Can i get away With the larger one in my 23mm Tire or the Other way round. Which is the better solution. Cheers!
#askgcntech ok, so I've been using tubeless sealant for a few years and swear by it, the number of times I've got home bike covered in sealant ... many times, all but 1 caused a stop ...... BUT, How do I clean off the sun baked sealant off my frame, flippin baked on .....
#AskGCNTech Here's a maths question for Dr. Bridgewood's geeky side: Is there a theoretical max power a rider of a given weight can produce at. given cadence? Assuming they aren't pulling on the handlebars, isn't a rider's power limited by their weight and cadence?
No because you also have to factor in muscular endurance i e track cyclist if you can shove a harder gear at the same cadence as someone the same size as you, the harder gear will produce more power
#askgcntech Greetings to all at GCN Megabase! Bit of an aero nerdy question for you. Last year I did my first Club 10 TT on my alloy road bike using my best wheels (with tri bars) (now used as my winter bike, having finally built up a summer aero bike) and I was pretty happy with my time (25:39). Both bikes I have set up nearly identical to each other to the millimetre including reach, stack, bar width and drop etc, although my summer bike has slightly steeper seat and head tube angles and slightly shorter wheelbase. My question is this. With an estimated 500g and 20-30 watt aero saving on frame alone if I used the same wheel and tyre combo, what theoretical time could I achieve if I matched my effort watt for watt? Side note, my winter bike has Tiagra 4700 and summer bike has 11sp 105/ultegra mix, both run 11-32 on the rear. Both are rim brake bikes.
The weight saving will give no advantage on an average 10 mile tt. I'm interested to know where your 20-30 watt aero saving comes from if you're riding in the same position, using the same wheels and tyres. But to answer your question directly, an extra 20 watts or equivalent aero saving will save in the region of 30 seconds.
@@the318pop my aluminium winter bike is at least 10 years old with oversized round tubes, twin triangle design and fully external cables. My summer bike frame is an open mould fully aero carbon frame bike with full and truncated aerofoil tube and seat post shapes, dropped seatstays and cable routed internally through the frame. The fork on my summer bike is also aero optimised whereas my winter bike fork (despite being full carbon) is more neutral shaped.
@@matt_acton-varian well you'll see noticeable gains for sure but not in the 30 watt realm. There's a psychological benefit to be had too, that has to be worth a few watts :-)
The guy with the handlebar issue should maybe try to buy a riser handlebar, which would possibly be the cheapest option. Specialized, amongst others, sell that type of handlebar for around 350 US$.
At 6ft 3in he needs an XL bike. No fix is going to make that tiny bike fit him. I'm 6ft tall with longer arms and an XL fits well. 6ft 3inch he'd be XL or XXL depending on his arm / upper body length. Silly.
@@chicagoan I'm 6ft 7in, 250lbs, and can certainly relate to that. Currently on Tarmac SL6, size 61cm. Agree with what you say, but simply recommended the easiest and cheapest option.
#askgcntech Hi Alex/Ollie/Manon/Random GCN presenter - I'm a heavier rider (Clydesdale) and live in a hilly area, my bike uses Rim Brakes and DT Swiss alloy rims. I'm curious about trying latex tubes but worried if heat generated by heavy braking would be a problem - would latex tubes be safe to use under heavy rim braking conditions? Or should I stick to Butyl? Thanks and keep up the great content!
I’m happy with my Corsa Speed tubeless tyres for TT, but i’m interested to know which tyre with a latex tube is reported to be faster? (Assuming we’re not talking about a tubular tyre).
Hi guys and girls, I'm keen to upgrade my 2016 Giant Defy from mechanical to hydraulic discs. I'm more rugby player than cyclist in build, around 100kg and am keen for some more stopping power. I currently have 105 5800 and TRP spares. My key concern is finding a way to fit flat mount calipers to my older post mount frame. Any ideas greatly appreciated! #askgcntech
#AskGCNTech I have a pair of dressy casual boots that are gonna need resoling soon. Would it be possible for the cobbler to build in a recessed MTB-style plate, or is that just a really bad idea?
#gcntech as a former marathon runner I was very aware of the mileage on my running shoes as they have a fatigue life depending upon a ton of variables. Typically I could run 250-300 miles before the spring sensation of a running shoe would dissipate. Do cycling shoes have a fatigue life as well?
Yes, but unlike with running (or even hiking/walking) shoes its unlikely they will make you feel uncomfortable or cause you any problems, it will happen so slowly that you will likely swap them out for some other reason, only then will you realise just how soft they had become. The first time some people notice is when they crack or snap!
#askgchtech Hi everyone, I got lower back pain and a herniated disk few months ago. I have not ride a bike for a long time. As I am starting back to cycling, I need to bring up my handlebar for at least 8 or 9 cm up, and therefore put less pressure on my lower back. Is there any adapter to extend the steerer tube safely for about 10 cm. I have seen many adapters on amazon and other places. some goes into the tube like an expansion plug, and some clamped outside and stem is clamped on the adapter. Is any of them good?
#askgcntech Hey Team, I am an u19 racer and I wonder what would be the best setup for restricted gearing, my options are 53-14 with 23c tires or 52-14 with any tire size? 🙏 Thanks
#askgcntech hi Ollie the wonder doc! got a question for the more cost savvy amongst us. i want to try tubeless, but its a minefield of tech?? looking at purchasing the muc-off tubeless kit for a start. but then the questions come thick and fast..... tyres. they are quite expensive but last longer - you guys ride the p-zero but thats because you have a sponsor i reckon ;). vittoria website show all their tyre specs and look like the clincher tyres they produce are tubeless ready? am i right? what do you recommend - i know its a loaded question but good luck
#askgcntech Hi everyone, is it normal that my drivetrain is noisier in the large front chainring compared to the small one? I have checked for rubbing with the front derailleur but don’t see any contact. It gets less noisy when shifting to the smaller cogs at the back. Thank you and keep it up with the great content!
Which groupset do you have mate? This exact thing happens on my 105 and cannot find the cause. I’ve also noticed similar comments on other videos and the response by the presenters has been to simply check the derailleur!
#askgcntech Hello guys, I am looking at purchasing a Canyon Ultimate however I am between sizes, what is generally better to go with the smaller size or the larger size?
#askgcntech. I have recently upgraded to Hunt 44 aerodynamiskt carbon wheels, and the wheels have a continuous hum while riding. I've noticed this on other bikes with carbon wheels, so it must be common on all carbon wheels. I find this noise irritating! Are there carbon wheels that are silent?
#askgcntech Hi guys. A lot of advice tells me to run low tyre pressures (say 5 bar) yet my Mavic Yksion UST say not to go below (say) 6 bar printed on the sidewall. This occurs on other tyres i have too (different brands). Will they fall off if I run them below the stated min pressure? Is this the manufacturer being ultra cautious? (note this is subtly different to the question asked today; I am not using inserts and this is a 25 mm road tyre issue). Cheers!
#askgcntech I have a 2008 Specialized Tarmac Elite, with 2021 Mavic Aksium Wheels. I have been running 10-speed, but have been hitting some mechanical issues, so am wanting to get rid of the old groupset and bring in some new kit. Can I fit 11-speed on this frame or am I limited to 10-speed? The Aksium hub is 11-speed...I think. If you can help that would be awesome. Thanks in advance
you should have no problem putting 11 speed on if the hub is already 11 speed (Mavics are all 10/11 compatible I think). You just need the shifters and rear derailleur. F der should be fine as is.
#askgcntech When a tire rolling resistance is tested and measured at 15W, does that means both tires on the bike account for 30W ? Or is it a “global system” measure ?
#askgcntech Hi Guys, I want to increase my cassette from a 30t to 32t for a few occasional big rides. Rather than replacing the full cassette, can I switch just the largest 3 sprockets. I’ve calculated chain length as the same, but my concern is the jump in sprocket size. Sprockets 8 to 9 are currently 21 to 24t, but the new ratio will be a 21 to 25t change. Is this jump too large?
#askgcntech i am currently owning the vision metron 40 disc SL wheelset with a shimano 11 speed freehub, is it possible to convert it to a campy 12 speed freehub? i want to upgrade to the record groupset for my bianchi : ) greetings Matthias
#askgcntech Hi sagacious GCN maestri, how much of an improvement would I see from updating my old Shimano BR-6500 Ultegra rim brakes to a more up-to-date set of Ultegra R8000 or R8100s? Is it a viable and worthwhile upgrade?
Yeah bit you'll have to change the levers too, since the pull ratios are different. If you use the levers that were compatible with 6500 brakes, they pull less cable so the brakes will feel spongey
#askgcntech Hi Guys, I have a gravel bike with clearance for 40mm tyres. I currently have 28mm tyres fitted at the moment. Does the extra space between the wheel and the frame cause some sort of aero disadvantage? or are they any other disadvantages the extra space gives? Thanks!
It is proven that more gap between the fork and wheel is more aerodynamically efficient as the turbulence from the forwards spinning wheel interacts less with the fork.
@Patrick Parisienne really? Would have thought it was the other way around, dont know much on this topic but usually when you think aero, everything is really tight, minimal gaps, thanks !
@@patrickparisienne1917 I would imagine fork shape has a lot to do with that as well, if you have to aerofoil wings for forks sure that makes sense but what if they are more rounded?
@@TheArniec91 it makes sense to a degree but I think the fork shape and wheel depth and shape really matters for the interaction hes talking about to happen
@@coreygolphenee9633 yes fork shape is important. STORCK aero bikes feature large fork clearance around the tyre, as do the latest track bikes, look at Team GB’s bikes at the Olympics…. In a straight line a more airfoil section is preferable, but any side winds render it more draggy than a round tube. A blunted airfoil section that is not too long in its chord is a good compromise.
#askgcntech hey Manon, lads. Been biking for a while and want to switch to a more aggressive position. What is my first step? Remove spacers, flip the stem (had it reversed), or get a longer stem? Thanks!
i'm not gcn but I think I can help you for a bit. I would suggest a bikefit, then explain you want an agressive position and they make you as aero as possible with still enough comfort for long rides. If a bikefit isn't an option (because it's pretty expensive or another reason), make small steps, first flip your stem back, see how that goes, then remove a spacer,... Be careful tho because it'll do a lot of things to your body: some examples are tired arms because there's simply more weight on em (a good core stability can fix that problem too), saddle problems because your weight is more shifted forward, like numbness (can fix that with tilting the saddle forward, not too much tho because then you'll slide foward), backpain because you're not used to the position (again: core stability can help), but also your legs could start to "burn" faster, try getting very aero in your current position and you'll know what I mean. That's about all the knowledge I have about that subject I think, hope I helped you out.
The rule for aero wheels is called the rule of 105. Meaning the rim should be at least 105% of the width of the outside of the tire. There are a bunch online resources that measure various inflated tire sizes by internal rim width. Or just measure it yourself and ensure the tire does not exceed that when inflated to where you want it. Keep in mind that the tire gets wider as you put more miles on it.
#askgcntech Hello! I wanted to ask if it was possible to convert a TT bike to a drop bar bike and convert the TT bike's original groupset to STI shifters?
#AskGCNtech I'm a 4'11 weight is 130. I have very muscular legs, yet the highest watts I've ever done is 600 watts. My average watts is 130. The longest ride I've ever done is 55 miles. I've been cycling for for 6 months. When will my power increase? Or I'm i limited by being short and a female. Do you think I can ever hit 1000 watts?
You are very limited due to your weight and length. You probably never reach the 1000w range, which is fine, not many do regardless of how big they are. Avergae 130w, do you mean that is your FTP? That is very low, if you would get it over 200, closer to 220-240w then you will be able to challenge a lot more rider. Cycling for 6 months is alright but it takes time to build up the physique necessary. Just keep going and you will improve over time. Do lots of VO2 training, find your FTP and push 10-15% above that and you will improve your watt output over time, this takes a lot of time to do as you need a good base to start from. Just in comparison, I am a male, 25 yrs old, cycling for 3.5 yrs, which the last 2 years a lot more serious with regular training. My FTP (20min) is around 300W for height of 5´10 and 182 pounds. My max watt output is just peaking north of 1000, sometimes 1200w but is just a peak on my power meter. 800w is more realistic and something I can sustain for just a few seconds. Remember, it is not about maximum watt output but more of WEIGHT PER KILO W/KG that is important, especially on long endurance rides or very hilly sections, a heavy rider with high watt output will be remarkable quicker than you, yes, but if your w/kg is a lot better you will be able to go for longer and take a major advantage in the hills. Okay, remember the most important thing! Ride and have fun. Numbers are very satisfying to look at but never forget the joy of actually riding, especially with good friends.
@@sebbelito2975 Thanks for your advice. Yea I know I need alot work. I don't think I'm pushing myself as hard as I can go. I've been a runner for over 25 years. My running vo2 max is 42 at age 40, and cycling it's at 40.
@@kimwarner6050 Cycling will always be slightly less than running! When pushing your max, running uses more muscles/different muscles than cycling therefore your heartbeat will be slightly higher than pushing your max on a bike :)
@@kimwarner6050 you may not slam watts down but you can probably tap dance up gradients my giant ass would be ready to hurl on one thing cool about cycling is that you be good at some aspect regardless of size, also at your height and weight try BMX lol
#askgcntech Hello from Portland, Oregon! Curious about the aerodynamic effects of running a narrower road tire (for instance a 28 or 32mm slick) on a fork designed for a gravel or "all-rounder" bike. For instance, I'm riding a Ribble CGR SL, and during the winter I run a 38 or 42 partially knobbed gravel tire for traction and peace-of-mind in the wet, cold, grime we get here in Portland (weather I'm sure you are familiar with). However, when it gets warmer and drier...very dry here July-Sept in case GCN wanted to do a vid about riding in Oregon :), my road riding is done with a 32mm slick road tire that meshes nicely with my wheel's rim width. There's a sizeable gap between my fork blades and the wheel/tire and I'm wondering if this creates a substantial aerodynamic loss. Would I be better off sizing up to a wider tire due to this putative aero loss, or stay with the tire that rolls fast and meshes well with my rim width?
The aero benefit outweighs (pun intended) the weight savings of shallow wheels unless you're always riding uphill or accelerating out of corners. An exception to this is something like Hardknott Pass travelling west. You get no aero benefit travelling up the climb at slow walking pace, and no aero benefit descending the lumpy bumpy road down into Eskdale mostly on the brakes.
The Vittoria Air-liners are so good. I love them. I've been running them on my road and gravel bike for a few months now and the piece of mind they offer is great. I've punctured to the point where sealant was spraying out of my tire for minutes (hilariously) and I still felt great on the bike. That was all down to Vittoria.
My (potential) problem with them is that tubeless tyres are hard to fit at the best of times. I can only think that the air-liners will make it even more difficult to fit the tyre. I mean, you need to push the bead of the tyre into to centre of the rim bed to stand the best chance of an easy fit. In your experience, how was the fitting process? (Actually that’s not my only problem, the price of the Vittoria air-liners is also ridiculous).
@@likemarksee it's actually easier since the inserts help keep the tire formed. I had huge problems with my GravelKing Panaracers (I had to inflate them with tubes and then reinstall them after the beads stretched) since the beads were so tight they wouldn't seal. With the inserts they were easier to install. Helping that is the tool that comes with the "kit" option which helps to wrench tires onto the wheel.
…i’m struggling to justify the (potential) effort and cost of fitting Vittoria air liners for the benefit that they provide. In a TT/triathlon situation you’re still likely to be way off the podium (or a PB) if the air liners come into play.
@@likemarksee I don't have any experience in those categories, so I can't help with that. In a road or gravel ride for pleasure, they're a no brainer. In a gravel race, they're a no brainer.
@@likemarksee yeah but for a multi use bike guy that may commute or what not with their bike spending a few watts on piece of mind will Ultimately make you faster in the long run
6 foot 3 inches tall is pretty large for a 56 sized frame. (unless your legs are very short) I'm "only" 6'2" tall and I ride a 59 cm, and a 60 cm frame.
Likewise - 6'1" here on a 58 frame and sometimes even that feels a little tight.
Me also, 5'11 and 58 seems right. For 6'3" from what I've seen 60 cm would be like the minimum
6.3 tall 87 inseam, on a 59 frame. 11 cm stem
@@TengoHambre With my 59 cm frame, i use a 14 cm stem, and with my 60 cm frame, I use a 13 cm stem.
I'm 5'10 and my recommended frame size is 54-56. I rode my uncle's 52 frame and felt like a clown on a tiny tricycle.
Life getting tough at GCN guys ? Only one P.C. between you now. Who got it confiscated ! Another good show.
For the 1st question, another option is, when getting a standard stem and bar, to get a +15 or +25 riser handlebar, they are quite common, and some even Aero (from Specialized a +25 aero one exists).
Yeah but he would be much happier on a 58-60 depending on his inseam and arm length
Nonsense Richard - they're not allowed to explain the normal (traditional ways) of adjusting fit on a bike... ;-) And, sadly for the person asking the question, their Canyon likely has an oversized steerer tube that makes it harder to find sensibly priced stem options. Part of me wishes they took it as a chance to highlight some of the downsides of fully integrated cockpit setups.
Jokes on you I produce 0 watts, so they save nothing! Take this aero wheel!
Oooh, now I made myself sad.
I have found that the larger pipe cleaners work well for cleaning a cassette. Works like the string floss but a bit easier to manipulate into the cogs.
There is a microfiber based bike "floss". They are great for removing grit from between the plates on your chain and to remove such from between the cogs on time cassette.
About spokes. My wife has a Liv and I have the equivalent Giant. She also has those flat spokes on her wheels. When she cranks it up. She certainly puts distance between us very quickly. Even allowing for all the other variables, it is noticeable. I've done triathlons (still do) and she hasn't. Sometimes we cycle to a furthest point and pub crawl on the return leg along the south coast near Brighton (we use cycle paths in case you ask). When the sun is shinning .... it is difficult to beat cycling into a sun set.
#askgcntech Hi guys, love the content and the effort you guys put into creating it all. Have been watching your vids for years now and have always wondered about the difference between entry level carbon wheels and top of the line ones. Any chance of a video comparing the two ends of the spectrum and what gains are offered by the top of the line? Cheers! Jared
Look for a rim shape that resembles a NACA profile with a wide internal width to get a smooth tyre transition. Theoretically, that will be the fastest wheel rim you can get. The other things are bladed spokes and good hubs etc
For Roy from down under, you should look at Winspace hyper wheels they carbon spokes and very stiff.
I have over 7000ks on mine and no problems at all. Only 1600 AUD
If you concern about unclipping of tubeless tire, just add 1 or 2 extra layer of tubeless rim tape. Also, you probably never use foam insert in tire. Some time it's so hard to unclip, it easier to cut tire.
Have you guys seen the videos of guys using string spokes? It is so weird but they work spokes are basically not load bearing so I thing string would be lighter than even carbon spokes...just saying get out the sewing kit and save some watts lol
I mean they are dyneema strings which are strong AF but I think shaped foiled carbon spokes would out do them
They work because the force of your weight on the wheel "hangs" from the spokes that are facing "up" at any given time, which is then distributed around the rim.
Hey folks. I want to upgrade my shifting to Di2 or Sram Etap. My current bike is a 2014 Orbea ORCA, pretty stock, minus a saddle and tire upgrade. Is it worthwhile to sell my current bike and get a production model with Di2/Etap or save the money and upgrade my current bike. Pros and cons of either? #AskGCNTech
Would love for Alex to do a video tutorial of how to install a tyre/tire insert.
Thanks for answering my question!
Hi Ollie, very useful indeed.Thank you.
"Don't look like Donkey Kong in Mario Kart" 😂 Made my day
#askgcntech given all variables remaining the same, what is the wattage saving between a 34mm and a 50mm deep rim when riding on a flat road (or climbing, or descending)? Assuming equivalent tyres and tubes (or tubeless), same frame, same rider, same temperature etc
at what speed? between 20km/hr-30km/hr, less than running proper pressure on your tires and above those speeds, much less than a dirty drivetrain and lowering your shoulders.
Entertaining every afternoon; simple answer is: time zone? 💡
for the first question
with a 0 degree stem and a rise up bar design could help
#askgcntech Hi Guys i got a question, a bit on the engineering side of things. How come some/most of the premium hubs are so loud (DT Swiss, Chris King) whilst entry level or "city bike" Hubs almost make no sound at all? I understand that the emitted noise depends on things like grease density, freewheel design, number of teeth to engage, spring tension and materials used. But off the top of my head i would assume that noise directly derives from friction in the hub, which would mean: more noise = more friction = more power lost. Which would make absolutely no sense at all for premium hubs. Could you please enlighten me? Thanks in advance!
Well you basically said it yourself with the grease. If you put more grease or a thicker grease in the freehub it will be quieter but the friction from the grease will slow the wheel down, so a louder greaseless freehub will be faster. Also I guess a lighter weight hub, lighter rim and higher spoke tension will amplify the freehub ratchet sound.
#AskGCNTech My bike currently has a long cage derailleur and 11x32 Shimano 11-speed cassette. I also have a new 11x28 Shimano 11 speed cassette in storage. Can I switch out these 11-speed cassettes and use the same chain?
YES
One comment about Carbon spokes and normal spokes wheels, you can find good quality price wheels in the market. I saw your video of the Winspace wheels and I got a set, they are amazingly good. So not completely true that you need to sale a bony part for a wheel set with carbon spokes. Cciao 😜
RE: Bike size. I'm 5'10" tall and fit comfortably on a size 56 frame. A 6'3" rider should consider an XL or size 60 frame for a better fit. Best course is to see a bike fitter and they can recommend the proper size for you.
Absolutely - some bike frames come out slightly bigger or smaller too - a bike fit, or being able to ride the bike first from a shop is something we'd definitely recommend!
I want to know what's the difference between cheap and expensive alloy wheels though, couldn't find an answer anywhere.
Mostly about weight. They are build with similar alloy and to similar strength requirements, but with different extrusion profile and split connection technology (welded, pinched with a hub, left open). More intricate shapes and solid connections give better stregth/weight, but ask for more precise machinery
Durability is the main difference.
@@galenkehler i have a cheap training wheelset but I'm looking to upgrade to a 35mm deep alloy racing wheelset (fulcrum racing 4).
If your handlebars are too low their is steering tube extenders that that clamp inside the steer tube they come in sizes from 3cm to 5cm theirs also the extenders that go on the outside of your steer tube but they look hideous both examples can be found on ebay and amazon
Ollie bringing a little attitude today! Someone check the recovery on his whoop.
Is there a good rule of thumb for watts savings numbers? Like how much different would saving 20w be across a 50 mile ride?
#askgcntech - hey champs! Thanks for all the great vids and advice. On a flat course which will be faster do you think - a low profile climbing wheel or 50mm deep rims that are 300g's total heavier? I know it's impossible to be exact, but what do you reckon? Cheers Dave
The aero rims will win on a flat course.
#askgcntech Any tips on cleaning tyre sealant off my frame, especially Muc Off, It seals well but when dried on the frame is hard to remove.
Ah yes, not answering the title of the video and making you wait to the end to find out it isn’t answered. Classic UA-cam move
They answered but it was just an unsatisfactory "not much"
Is there a big difference between using 45mm wheels both in the front n rear and using a 49mm wheel in the front with a 54mm wheel in the rear? Considering both are almost similar in weight..probably a 50-100gms difference…how is climbing affected with a 54mm wheel?? 🤔 i use a factor o2
#askgcntech Hello guys , thanks for all the answers, what I would like to know is when manufacturers state how many "watts" their equipment saves ,what does that mean to me?? Because different riders of different weights and CDAs will require a different amount of watts to travel at the same speed. Please clarify this for me and other viewers so we can better quantify Aero claims made by manufacturers.?
Latex tubes.... what a nightmare. Fine for a TT but don't even think about them for anything else
And then if you don't ride your TT bike for a week, the tires go flat. If you don't ride it for a month, the sidewalls get damaged sitting on flat tires.
Never had a problem with latex tubes, at least my bizeps stays lean pumping up my tires every second day😅😎, the ride is really smooth tough with corsa tires, and i also like the fact that my tire pressure is exactly how it dhould be before every ride🥳
#askgcntech Hi people. Love the show. May I ask a hydraulic brake question for all those post-mount frame gravel bike ninjas out there?
I have an old 2016 Cannondale CAADX frame with mechanical post-mount brake callipers (which are really awful). I'm looking to upgrade the whole groupset to modern GRX 600, but can't fit GRX callipers as they're all flat-mount only. Would Shimano post-mount mountain bike brake callipers work with GRX hydraulic shifters, and if so which one would be most suitable and are there any pitfalls in terms of hydraulic hose fittings between gravel and mountain bike standards?
Best wishes,
Harley
Why would you change from a short cage to a long cage rear mech if you're not changing the cassette to one with smaller gears, 30t and up? I have 11-32t and it shifts perfect with a medium cage. Weird "upgrade". They'd have to check and adjust chain length twice, once for the long cage and old cassette, and once again if they ever get the cassette that requires a long cage.
#askgcntech why is it that Ganna was DQ/got in trouble for the arranged bike swap at the Tour de la Provence, but on the ITT at the 2020 TDF on la Planche des Belle Filles lots of riders did it, including Pogacar and Roglic? Just curious as to whether there is a rule about TT's or a rule change in the last year? Many thanks :)
#AskGCNTech Hello tech experts! I got a pair of pink latex tubes. After a race, do I fold them up and keep in the drawer, or just use them till they got punctured? And if I repair punctured latex tubes, will that affect their performance? Hope this is interesting enough to get a reply ;)
I'd be careful with folding them up, I've had a tube which then got "glued" together on the inside. Inflating the tube has not helped. Anyways, I run latex tubes on my daily driver. Yes, it's annoying to regularly re-inflate them but since I use Gatorskin Hardshell tyres, I'm not worried about punctures at all.
For the tall gentlemen, you can also get a stem riser. While ugly. They work.
Curious when you say that OSPW is different to long cage the idea is to Lengthen the cogs to fit bigger cogs right? Why is it different?. Thanks
The person with the 56 cm Ultimate could turn their handlebars upside-down like folks did in the 70s.
Everybody is talking of depth, but nobody talks about spokes, hubs and bearings. Most deep carbon wheels are a carbon rim with chinesse hub with very low quality bearings and are floppy and low responsive
12:31 Ollie's high pitch voice :D
Waiting for it lol
Aero wheels vs ceramic wheel hub bearings…what is better? I dont know should i buy wheels with ceramic hub bearings that are not aero or wheels with normal steel hub bearings and are aero. #AskGCNTech
Steel bearings are better beyond the first few hundred km so unless you're replacing bearings every month...
ceramic bearings are useless in cycling applications
Ceramic bearings are designed for high rpm applications, nothing on a bike spins faster than a couple hundred rpm, in my opinion it’s marketing hype…
Aero or non aero is depends on you. One thing we all have in common is the bearings.
Go for non-contact sealed bearings such NTN LLB or NSK VV or equivalent.
The only bike's bearing that can go full ceramic is the pulley wheels bearing. Very low load and rpm, probably is going to last a bit longer. Change the old bearing to hi-quality full ceramic NSK bearing just cost me 18usd/pc. You don't need those fancy big pulley wheels bs that cost you 300usd unless you have deep pockets.
#askgcntech Hi guys (and Mannon), how strict should one follow system wight limits for road bikes/gravel bikes? For example canyon often says the maximum system wigh safe to use is 120kg...If you you are a 2m tall rider at 100kg, on a 10kg bike (XXl bike) and maybe want to bikehiking, there wouldn't be much safe room for luggage. Or do you think those system limits are only a "guaranteed safe suggestion" and one should be fine to add some more wight?
Hi, I want to turn my brake levers inwards (Evenepoel, Campenaerts Style). Is there a trick or a right way to do it so they both have the same angle or tilt. Never seem to get it quite right…
Thanks, greetings from Vienna :)
Me again. How is it that some people stay very steady in a particular zone without bouncing up and down the graphs? No matter how steady I am (constant rpm in a given gear on a flat road) I will never have a steady power graph (ERG mode off). I am using a Wahoo KICKR v5 and Zwift. #AskGCNtech
#AskGCNTech Guten Tag, i am running a 23mm Front Tire and a 25mm Back Tire on my TT Bike, both Setup With Latex inner Tubes. My question is about my spare Tube, because those are either suited for 19-23mm or 25-28 mm. Can i get away With the larger one in my 23mm Tire or the Other way round. Which is the better solution. Cheers!
#askgcntech ok, so I've been using tubeless sealant for a few years and swear by it, the number of times I've got home bike covered in sealant ... many times, all but 1 caused a stop ...... BUT, How do I clean off the sun baked sealant off my frame, flippin baked on .....
#AskGCNTech Here's a maths question for Dr. Bridgewood's geeky side: Is there a theoretical max power a rider of a given weight can produce at. given cadence? Assuming they aren't pulling on the handlebars, isn't a rider's power limited by their weight and cadence?
No because you also have to factor in muscular endurance i e track cyclist if you can shove a harder gear at the same cadence as someone the same size as you, the harder gear will produce more power
#askgcntech Greetings to all at GCN Megabase! Bit of an aero nerdy question for you. Last year I did my first Club 10 TT on my alloy road bike using my best wheels (with tri bars) (now used as my winter bike, having finally built up a summer aero bike) and I was pretty happy with my time (25:39). Both bikes I have set up nearly identical to each other to the millimetre including reach, stack, bar width and drop etc, although my summer bike has slightly steeper seat and head tube angles and slightly shorter wheelbase. My question is this. With an estimated 500g and 20-30 watt aero saving on frame alone if I used the same wheel and tyre combo, what theoretical time could I achieve if I matched my effort watt for watt? Side note, my winter bike has Tiagra 4700 and summer bike has 11sp 105/ultegra mix, both run 11-32 on the rear. Both are rim brake bikes.
The weight saving will give no advantage on an average 10 mile tt. I'm interested to know where your 20-30 watt aero saving comes from if you're riding in the same position, using the same wheels and tyres. But to answer your question directly, an extra 20 watts or equivalent aero saving will save in the region of 30 seconds.
@@the318pop my aluminium winter bike is at least 10 years old with oversized round tubes, twin triangle design and fully external cables. My summer bike frame is an open mould fully aero carbon frame bike with full and truncated aerofoil tube and seat post shapes, dropped seatstays and cable routed internally through the frame. The fork on my summer bike is also aero optimised whereas my winter bike fork (despite being full carbon) is more neutral shaped.
@@matt_acton-varian well you'll see noticeable gains for sure but not in the 30 watt realm. There's a psychological benefit to be had too, that has to be worth a few watts :-)
The guy with the handlebar issue should maybe try to buy a riser handlebar, which would possibly be the cheapest option. Specialized, amongst others, sell that type of handlebar for around 350 US$.
At 6ft 3in he needs an XL bike. No fix is going to make that tiny bike fit him. I'm 6ft tall with longer arms and an XL fits well. 6ft 3inch he'd be XL or XXL depending on his arm / upper body length. Silly.
Yes, I was going to recommend the very same thing.
@@chicagoan I'm 6ft 7in, 250lbs, and can certainly relate to that. Currently on Tarmac SL6, size 61cm. Agree with what you say, but simply recommended the easiest and cheapest option.
#askgcntech Hi Alex/Ollie/Manon/Random GCN presenter - I'm a heavier rider (Clydesdale) and live in a hilly area, my bike uses Rim Brakes and DT Swiss alloy rims. I'm curious about trying latex tubes but worried if heat generated by heavy braking would be a problem - would latex tubes be safe to use under heavy rim braking conditions? Or should I stick to Butyl? Thanks and keep up the great content!
I’m happy with my Corsa Speed tubeless tyres for TT, but i’m interested to know which tyre with a latex tube is reported to be faster? (Assuming we’re not talking about a tubular tyre).
Veloflex Record
Hi guys and girls, I'm keen to upgrade my 2016 Giant Defy from mechanical to hydraulic discs. I'm more rugby player than cyclist in build, around 100kg and am keen for some more stopping power. I currently have 105 5800 and TRP spares. My key concern is finding a way to fit flat mount calipers to my older post mount frame. Any ideas greatly appreciated! #askgcntech
#AskGCNTech I have a pair of dressy casual boots that are gonna need resoling soon. Would it be possible for the cobbler to build in a recessed MTB-style plate, or is that just a really bad idea?
#gcntech as a former marathon runner I was very aware of the mileage on my running shoes as they have a fatigue life depending upon a ton of variables. Typically I could run 250-300 miles before the spring sensation of a running shoe would dissipate. Do cycling shoes have a fatigue life as well?
Yes, but unlike with running (or even hiking/walking) shoes its unlikely they will make you feel uncomfortable or cause you any problems, it will happen so slowly that you will likely swap them out for some other reason, only then will you realise just how soft they had become. The first time some people notice is when they crack or snap!
Not nearly as much you will notice tire wear on a bike like you notice shoe wear
Afternoon rim brakes (ie proper brakes) fans!!!!
#askgchtech Hi everyone, I got lower back pain and a herniated disk few months ago. I have not ride a bike for a long time. As I am starting back to cycling, I need to bring up my handlebar for at least 8 or 9 cm up, and therefore put less pressure on my lower back. Is there any adapter to extend the steerer tube safely for about 10 cm. I have seen many adapters on amazon and other places. some goes into the tube like an expansion plug, and some clamped outside and stem is clamped on the adapter. Is any of them good?
#askgcntech Hey Team, I am an u19 racer and I wonder what would be the best setup for restricted gearing, my options are 53-14 with 23c tires or 52-14 with any tire size? 🙏 Thanks
#askgcntech hi Ollie the wonder doc! got a question for the more cost savvy amongst us. i want to try tubeless, but its a minefield of tech?? looking at purchasing the muc-off tubeless kit for a start. but then the questions come thick and fast..... tyres. they are quite expensive but last longer - you guys ride the p-zero but thats because you have a sponsor i reckon ;). vittoria website show all their tyre specs and look like the clincher tyres they produce are tubeless ready? am i right? what do you recommend - i know its a loaded question but good luck
#askgcntech Hi everyone, is it normal that my drivetrain is noisier in the large front chainring compared to the small one? I have checked for rubbing with the front derailleur but don’t see any contact. It gets less noisy when shifting to the smaller cogs at the back. Thank you and keep it up with the great content!
Which groupset do you have mate? This exact thing happens on my 105 and cannot find the cause. I’ve also noticed similar comments on other videos and the response by the presenters has been to simply check the derailleur!
#askgcntech Hello guys, I am looking at purchasing a Canyon Ultimate however I am between sizes, what is generally better to go with the smaller size or the larger size?
#gcnteck what's faster Shimano claris vs Shimano 105? From Philippines
#askgcntech. I have recently upgraded to Hunt 44 aerodynamiskt carbon wheels, and the wheels have a continuous hum while riding. I've noticed this on other bikes with carbon wheels, so it must be common on all carbon wheels. I find this noise irritating! Are there carbon wheels that are silent?
#askgcntech Hi guys. A lot of advice tells me to run low tyre pressures (say 5 bar) yet my Mavic Yksion UST say not to go below (say) 6 bar printed on the sidewall. This occurs on other tyres i have too (different brands). Will they fall off if I run them below the stated min pressure? Is this the manufacturer being ultra cautious? (note this is subtly different to the question asked today; I am not using inserts and this is a 25 mm road tyre issue). Cheers!
#askgcntech do lighter riders benefit more from aero bikes than heavier riders since heavier riders aren't affected by wind as much as lighter riders?
#askgcntech I have a 2008 Specialized Tarmac Elite, with 2021 Mavic Aksium Wheels. I have been running 10-speed, but have been hitting some mechanical issues, so am wanting to get rid of the old groupset and bring in some new kit. Can I fit 11-speed on this frame or am I limited to 10-speed? The Aksium hub is 11-speed...I think.
If you can help that would be awesome. Thanks in advance
you should have no problem putting 11 speed on if the hub is already 11 speed (Mavics are all 10/11 compatible I think). You just need the shifters and rear derailleur. F der should be fine as is.
#askgcntech When a tire rolling resistance is tested and measured at 15W, does that means both tires on the bike account for 30W ? Or is it a “global system” measure ?
#askgcntech Hi Guys, I want to increase my cassette from a 30t to 32t for a few occasional big rides. Rather than replacing the full cassette, can I switch just the largest 3 sprockets. I’ve calculated chain length as the same, but my concern is the jump in sprocket size. Sprockets 8 to 9 are currently 21 to 24t, but the new ratio will be a 21 to 25t change. Is this jump too large?
#askgcntech i am currently owning the vision metron 40 disc SL wheelset with a shimano 11 speed freehub, is it possible to convert it to a campy 12 speed freehub? i want to upgrade to the record groupset for my bianchi : ) greetings Matthias
Why don't pros use Tubeless?
#askgcntech Hi sagacious GCN maestri, how much of an improvement would I see from updating my old Shimano BR-6500 Ultegra rim brakes to a more up-to-date set of Ultegra R8000 or R8100s?
Is it a viable and worthwhile upgrade?
Yeah bit you'll have to change the levers too, since the pull ratios are different. If you use the levers that were compatible with 6500 brakes, they pull less cable so the brakes will feel spongey
@@galenkehler Thanks for the heads-up... think I'll stick with the old brakes then and just give them some tlc (a good clean, new cables and blocks)
Hi! does wearing cycling caps affect the effectivity of MIPS helmets? curious about this. Thanks!
#AskGCNTech
No as long as the hat isn't way too thick i don't see how it could
#askgcntech Hi Guys, I have a gravel bike with clearance for 40mm tyres. I currently have 28mm tyres fitted at the moment. Does the extra space between the wheel and the frame cause some sort of aero disadvantage? or are they any other disadvantages the extra space gives? Thanks!
It is proven that more gap between the fork and wheel is more aerodynamically efficient as the turbulence from the forwards spinning wheel interacts less with the fork.
@Patrick Parisienne really? Would have thought it was the other way around, dont know much on this topic but usually when you think aero, everything is really tight, minimal gaps, thanks !
@@patrickparisienne1917 I would imagine fork shape has a lot to do with that as well, if you have to aerofoil wings for forks sure that makes sense but what if they are more rounded?
@@TheArniec91 it makes sense to a degree but I think the fork shape and wheel depth and shape really matters for the interaction hes talking about to happen
@@coreygolphenee9633 yes fork shape is important.
STORCK aero bikes feature large fork clearance around the tyre, as do the latest track bikes, look at Team GB’s bikes at the Olympics….
In a straight line a more airfoil section is preferable, but any side winds render it more draggy than a round tube. A blunted airfoil section that is not too long in its chord is a good compromise.
#askgcntech hey Manon, lads. Been biking for a while and want to switch to a more aggressive position. What is my first step? Remove spacers, flip the stem (had it reversed), or get a longer stem? Thanks!
i'm not gcn but I think I can help you for a bit. I would suggest a bikefit, then explain you want an agressive position and they make you as aero as possible with still enough comfort for long rides. If a bikefit isn't an option (because it's pretty expensive or another reason), make small steps, first flip your stem back, see how that goes, then remove a spacer,... Be careful tho because it'll do a lot of things to your body: some examples are tired arms because there's simply more weight on em (a good core stability can fix that problem too), saddle problems because your weight is more shifted forward, like numbness (can fix that with tilting the saddle forward, not too much tho because then you'll slide foward), backpain because you're not used to the position (again: core stability can help), but also your legs could start to "burn" faster, try getting very aero in your current position and you'll know what I mean. That's about all the knowledge I have about that subject I think, hope I helped you out.
@@dieterloos7382 thanks a bunch! I got fitted about a year ago, but have come a long way since then. Guess I will have to shell out another $300
@@Doktor_Al if you can easily miss the money that's the best, will save you a lot of trouble, im speaking out of experience haha
#askgcntech Hello, is there a lot of difference between low cost wheels (like mavic aksium) and 700£ alu wheels?
The rule for aero wheels is called the rule of 105. Meaning the rim should be at least 105% of the width of the outside of the tire. There are a bunch online resources that measure various inflated tire sizes by internal rim width. Or just measure it yourself and ensure the tire does not exceed that when inflated to where you want it. Keep in mind that the tire gets wider as you put more miles on it.
#askgcntech Hello! I wanted to ask if it was possible to convert a TT bike to a drop bar bike and convert the TT bike's original groupset to STI shifters?
I would imagine the brand may sell a barset that could be swappable with the integrated solution and the shifters would probably be the easy psrt
@@coreygolphenee9633 So you could take say Shimano 105 STI levers and fit them to say a shimano 105 TT groupset presumably of the same generation?
#AskGCNtech I'm a 4'11 weight is 130. I have very muscular legs, yet the highest watts I've ever done is 600 watts. My average watts is 130. The longest ride I've ever done is 55 miles. I've been cycling for for 6 months. When will my power increase? Or I'm i limited by being short and a female. Do you think I can ever hit 1000 watts?
You are very limited due to your weight and length. You probably never reach the 1000w range, which is fine, not many do regardless of how big they are. Avergae 130w, do you mean that is your FTP? That is very low, if you would get it over 200, closer to 220-240w then you will be able to challenge a lot more rider. Cycling for 6 months is alright but it takes time to build up the physique necessary. Just keep going and you will improve over time. Do lots of VO2 training, find your FTP and push 10-15% above that and you will improve your watt output over time, this takes a lot of time to do as you need a good base to start from.
Just in comparison, I am a male, 25 yrs old, cycling for 3.5 yrs, which the last 2 years a lot more serious with regular training. My FTP (20min) is around 300W for height of 5´10 and 182 pounds. My max watt output is just peaking north of 1000, sometimes 1200w but is just a peak on my power meter. 800w is more realistic and something I can sustain for just a few seconds.
Remember, it is not about maximum watt output but more of WEIGHT PER KILO W/KG that is important, especially on long endurance rides or very hilly sections, a heavy rider with high watt output will be remarkable quicker than you, yes, but if your w/kg is a lot better you will be able to go for longer and take a major advantage in the hills.
Okay, remember the most important thing! Ride and have fun. Numbers are very satisfying to look at but never forget the joy of actually riding, especially with good friends.
@@sebbelito2975 Thanks for your advice. Yea I know I need alot work. I don't think I'm pushing myself as hard as I can go. I've been a runner for over 25 years. My running vo2 max is 42 at age 40, and cycling it's at 40.
@@kimwarner6050 Cycling will always be slightly less than running! When pushing your max, running uses more muscles/different muscles than cycling therefore your heartbeat will be slightly higher than pushing your max on a bike :)
@@kimwarner6050 you may not slam watts down but you can probably tap dance up gradients my giant ass would be ready to hurl on one thing cool about cycling is that you be good at some aspect regardless of size, also at your height and weight try BMX lol
As much as my mum puts out cooking porridge at a guess?
#askgcntech Have you chaps tested Tannus tyres?
#AskGCNTech. I'm thinking of switching OEM rotors to lighter brake rotors plus new brake pads. How do you bed the new pads to the new rotors?
#askgcntech Hello from Portland, Oregon! Curious about the aerodynamic effects of running a narrower road tire (for instance a 28 or 32mm slick) on a fork designed for a gravel or "all-rounder" bike. For instance, I'm riding a Ribble CGR SL, and during the winter I run a 38 or 42 partially knobbed gravel tire for traction and peace-of-mind in the wet, cold, grime we get here in Portland (weather I'm sure you are familiar with). However, when it gets warmer and drier...very dry here July-Sept in case GCN wanted to do a vid about riding in Oregon :), my road riding is done with a 32mm slick road tire that meshes nicely with my wheel's rim width. There's a sizeable gap between my fork blades and the wheel/tire and I'm wondering if this creates a substantial aerodynamic loss. Would I be better off sizing up to a wider tire due to this putative aero loss, or stay with the tire that rolls fast and meshes well with my rim width?
Would interest me too
A wider space between fork and tire increases aerodynamics
@@bene6581 but, why then are aero bikes and time trial bikes so tight between fork and wheel?
A piece of string is 16 inches. Why is this always so confusing for everyone?
32 per 1 kg
Why title the video for a question you can’t answer?
don't care about saving Watts. But how many lives can be saved if we stop Putin once for all? #AskGCNTech
56 is probably too small for that chap. I'm 6'1" and I ride a 58.
Aero wheels are only faster if they are also lighter! Unless you do no accelerations or hills!
The aero benefit outweighs (pun intended) the weight savings of shallow wheels unless you're always riding uphill or accelerating out of corners. An exception to this is something like Hardknott Pass travelling west. You get no aero benefit travelling up the climb at slow walking pace, and no aero benefit descending the lumpy bumpy road down into Eskdale mostly on the brakes.
The bike is too small for him he is the same height as myself he needs a 58cm Frame are a bear minimum
I suspect the last handlebar questioner was a She, not a He.
Good questions and well answered.