Runge RS Forming Plexiglass Headlight Covers
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- Опубліковано 7 лип 2024
- In this video Chris shows the technique used for shaping Perspex or Plexiglass headlight covers. This includes shaping aluminum molds and thermoforming in an oven.
#Thermoforming #plexiglass #lexan #custombuild #Metalshaping #Englishwheel
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0:00 Intro
0:42 Making Paper Pattern
1:32 Making Aluminum Form
8:29 Cutting Plexiglass Shape
9:35 Forming Plexiglass In Oven
11:52 Fitting Plexiglass Headlight Cover
15:37 Finished Headlight Covers - Авто та транспорт
Thanks for sharing your amazing craftsmanship once again. A couple of questions if I may:
1. What Thickness perspex are you using?
2. Didn't catch the oven set temperature or heating time?
3. Have you tried or considered making the buck out of the piece cut out from making the fender ? Seem like that would be the perfect starting contour.
Great Questions:
1. I am using 1/8" Plexi
2. I started at 315F and bumped it up to about 340F for the last couple minutes.
3. The headlight opening I cut out of the fender ends up being too small, as I like to have that extra inch or two around the outer parameter...
We’ve all heard of “hand made” cars of course, but yours, Mr Runge, are the world’s MOST hand made machines on the planet! They are beautiful throwbacks to an era of automotive art. Outstanding at every conceivable level…
Love your channel. I curved plenty of plexiglass in architecture school, and the best trick I learned was to cool the plexy with tap water straight out of the oven, it tightens the curve slightly further than the mold, instead of the material popping back.
Hope this is useful. Keep working those jewels you make!
Great suggestion. I just posted a vacuum forming method be used. I made a clear cockpit cover for the Indy 500 SUMAR streamliner in quarter scale and I carved a block of wood dead smooth. A model maker vacuum formed perfect covers. I think the same method could be used for the headlight covers...even a windshield. Carve the shape and the vacuum will pull the heated piece into shape.
You should get a hand battery router. It will save you time and accuracy. Beautiful job. It really enhances cars' looks.
More beautiful work Chris, thanks for taking so much trouble to explain everything. Like everyone that watches, I am inspired!
Nice work Chris! Final product looks amazing.
Thanks again for the great video! I've never seen this technique used. I definitely like it.
As always, top notch work Chris.
Great craftsmanship, congratulations, well done 👍
Always great to watch and learn from your videos ✊. In case you don’t know, you can soften the edges of the plexiglass and make cutting face smooth as “glass” by carefully heating it up with a gas burner. Maybe an air gun will work, but I haven’t tried. I did that when I made blue plexiglass sun visors for my E-type.
If I were to mount the headlight lenses I would make a ridge (about 1/8 in. around the inside of the light , add a rubber ring and make a headligk rim to attach to the outside . I think it would be much more pallative and wont let in dust and dirt ... just a suggestion , Cliff
Loved this video, thanks for sharing!
Nice!!!!! Thank you for sharing!!!
Nice work! Great video!
Hey Chris, I find your channel so fascinating! I love watching people with amazing talent bringing amazing things to life. Without UA-cam I'd probably never get the chance to experience how one would hand make a car. And your cars are total works of art. Thanks for taking the time to document your work and sharing it with the world. I look forward to more coming our way.
I would’ve thought that the hot metal would put an imprint in the plastic. When I did this years ago, I used plaster molds with dowels and lined them with an aramid felt. Nice work!
Very cool! Kind of amazed that the plexi doesn't get scratched up or otherwise damaged, but the final bit looks great. Weird bigger question, though - do you save those aluminum forms in case the customer needs fresh plexi lenses? Actually, how much stuff like that ends up being part of the final car?
Yep, I do save the forms👍🏻
PETG is a good plastic for headlight covers. It isn't prone to cracking when drilled and is UV resistant.
really smart , well done.
Chris, fabulous fabrication as always. Finish line getting ever closer. One minor niggle from an old wordsmith - I believe you are confusing the word parameter with perimeter (outer boundary).
That’s my Minnesotan Accent sneaking in😆
👌🏼
When i cut lexan to make sanding sticks i now use a multi tool cuts clean and no melting.
Lexan (polycarbonate) is different than Perspex or plexi. I use my electric shear or snips, even my hydraulic shear to cut polycarbonate.
Looks great! I have had issues with plexiglass cracking when using a drill - I use a headed awl to avoid that issue.
PETG is a good plastic that doesn't crack when drilled and is UV resistant.
Yes the plexi can get fragile. I suppose one could even preheat a drill bit…
amazing work!…i’ve ben watching you for the past few months, and very impressed by your skill in design and execution…
love this particular car…
suggestion:…i have an aluminum bike and fenders …i hate rattles and squeaks…the material is like a big speaker and broadcasts the sounds …i added leather washers and it did the trick…looks cool too because i have matching leather seat…you probably will have leather hood straps…could be a cool detail and touch…
can’t wait to see you finished product!
.... outer "perimeter", not "parameter"? I implemented a simliar setup on my 1974 Lotus Europa Twincam. What did you use for fastners between the plexi and the mounting brackets? Self-tapping or a suege-locked threadsert on the bracket? What about debris that can sneak in around the perimeter/periphery of the lense from the outside? Thanks. It's a piece of jewelry.
This is really good. How many car bodies have you made?
Beautiful, beautiful beautiful. Do you save the headlight forms in case the client needs a replacement?
Yep, I have a stack of the different styles here!
....maybe a rubber lip seal for the lens?....
Excellent process. If I cannot source a windshield for my Manta Montage kit car, I may try a similar process on a much larger piece. By the way, where did you source the side mirrors? I assume you found quality parts. Everything thing I find in that style is plastic.
Very cool. Have you ever tried hydroforming any of your aluminum shapes?
I have researched it but have yet to play with that. It does seem interesting though!
I was surprised that the left and right side covers could be made from the same molds. Is there not some asymmetry there that would require a mirror image rather than a duplicate?
Hi Douglas, as the video shows, I made separate molds for each side… a left and a right.
Looking good :).
If it rains will water pool in the bottom infront of the headlight?, the headlight itself will be waterproof, is the indicator bulb sealed against water ingress?.
Does this need sealed around the edges?, or would any water that got in just drain out?
:)
I doubt this car will see much rain but you do have a good question.
Good question, I do have a press on gasket that I use in some cases. The bulb and socket components are weather proof.
Your vids make me want to bend panels in the worst way! How much is a used English wheel?
You'll love it! My first English wheel I bought for $150.00. It was a homemade frame with HF anvils. I built my first three bodies with it!
@ Wow, I would have guessed several thousand $! I'm going to look into it. I love your work, especially being self taught. I taught myself to weld by fabbing a side exit exhaust thru the sill and most of the headache was getting even 1/2 inch clearance at the outlet with no banging againts the body. Used 3 inch pipe for the outlet and 2 inch for the pipe.
What about sealing the covers against water?
One could add a small "Trimlok" type gasket around the outside if wanted.
If you try to seal that area it will cause moisture to build up on the inside of the lens, and fog over when warmed. Even stock headlights with covers are vented to prevent moisture build up. The slight bit of air that can get past the perimeter of the Perspex actually helps to allow any moisture that made it's way past the cover to not fog over from trapped moisture.