Campagnolo EPS V1 V2 V3 Setup - fine tuning, problem solving
Вставка
- Опубліковано 4 жов 2024
- [correction: near the beginning of the video when I am explaining the initial position of the chain on the RD for the zeroing procedure I say to put the chain on the smallest sprocket before initiating the software sequence and moving to position #2, but I meant to say to start on the largest sprocket and move all the way across ... it may not make any difference but that is what Campy tells us to do]
I have finally stepped up to electronic shifting by equipping my new Canadian designed Argon 18 Gallium Pro (under 800grams) climbing bike with Campy's Super Record EPS V3 Groupset. Including a Powertap hub the bike weighs in sub 14lbs which highlights how light the EPS V3 components really are.
After an initial test ride I found that I had to make some important setup adjustments to get things to behave correctly-optimally, not throw the chain randomly when shifting to the big ring, etc. After researching these issues online I realized that the Campy documentation and videos were superficial and assume that by following the steps they outline, everything will always be perfect, which is clearly not the case for many people. Here is my story and my findings ...
First of all, I am using a 34-50 compact front chain ring and from reading online that is a configuration that Campy groupset front derailleurs (FD) often struggle with. Unlike Shimano FDs, the Campy FD setup is notoriously challenging to dial in optimally - and this is still the case with Campy EPS components and software.
There are several basic positioning steps that need to be carefully taken before turning on the electronics: get the FD vertical gap to the large chainring between 2-3mm (spec is 1.5-3mm). Lower and it will be harder to upshift (the chain needs to be forced over the ring with more pressure), higher and you start to risk the chain being thrown over to the pedal side. Anything higher than 3mm and you are into the danger zone with a 34-50 setup. The EPS FDs can be tilted front to back so you can optimize the vertical gap so that it is consistent all along its bottom edge to the ring teeth.
Next, make sure that the FD is parallel to the rings. Then when you do the software 'zero' setting, use at least a 0.5mm inside gap when on the small ring and larger rear sprocket - you may want to go as high as a 1mm gap depending on much trouble you are having with the chain throwing. Double and triple check post FD zeroing such that the FD position when on the high ring leaves only a few mm outside gap - otherwise that chain may randomly end up off the ring and on the pedals - dangerous stuff.
For the RD, see the video for details but the idea is to zero with a slight bias towards the outside (when on the #2 sprocket) and inside (when on the #10 sprocket) and then use the ride tuning software setting procedure to fine tune post zeroing. Having the RD in the exact middle of the 2nd and 10th teeth when zeroing may result in difficult shifting towards tooth 1 or 11. Again, don't be afraid to tune post zeroing with the ride tuning adjustment.
Finally, get that philips screwdriver out and turn in the RD vertical adjustment screw until you are in the 5-7mm gap range on the largest sprocket and smallest chain ring - any larger a gap and your shifting will be sloppy and may not engage crisply (or at all) on some of the sprockets ... in fact it makes sense to do this prior to any fine tuning. Also think about testing your shifting when loading the chain with the use of the rear brakes as it will surface any 'in use' shifting issues that may escape your notice if you are just test shift when the rear is free wheeling.
Good luck
Is posible use the same shifters en darailleurs from v2 11s, and change the power unit, interface v2 for v4 power unit, interface and the cables ??? My power unit is no working so, i have to change it i will prefer make and upgrade but not spend to much😅
Hi, Derek, When you mention going into ride settings by pressing ONE mode button for 6 secs, does this fine tune whatever gear/sproket you're in on the cassette, or does it shift the whole indexing for the full cassette (from the 2nd smallest to the 2nd biggest)?
very informative，many thx
I got a problem that when I switch from smaller chain ring to larger one, it often jams with the ring and the cage, 5034 and 1129 combination
My son's bike has same components but THM Clavicula crankset/Praxis chainrings. When shifting to big chainring with a quick tap it's okay. If it's hard pressed the FD moves too far to the outside and throws the chain. Any suggestions?
I wonder if the long press causes additional temporary movement - I think you may have to back off a bit on that setting - it takes some tuning - and depending on your chainrings not everything will be perfect - you will need to choose your most used gear ratios and optimize for them
Hi Derek, are you able to integrate the DTI that usually hangs from the stem into frame if you have the right frame?
I don't think you want to do that as it contains LEDs and the charging connector
Hi Derek, what's the method used to tilt the FDs front to back? Mine currently doesn't follow the curvature of the large chainring very well at all!
That is the problem with compact front chain rings. You can loosen the screw that holds the FD in position and simply move it to match the curve of the large chainring
I am having an issue where I carnt access all 11 gears . Have you had this issue .
No. Start the calibration over and focus on getting the gears you use most to be perfect and let the others be a little less perfect. You should get all gears working though.
My RD suddenly stopped responding altogether, but is able to go into Zero Setting. Any tips?
Have you tried connecting to the system with bluetooth and using the diagnostics? They are quite in depth and may help you ...
Yes. My mechanic fixed the problem, but the issue came back. I was out on a ride earlier today and the RD all of a sudden died mid way. The shifting won’t work at all on the right levers. There are no errors that pop up in the MyCampy app nor is there blinking LEDs .
@@Timtimzi is your problem fixed? How? My new SR EPS v4 did the same but seems only on Sequential or Custom setting. I have to hold right shifter button to reset and fidget with the crappy app. It shows there is an error but going to diagnostic it shows nothing. App is crap. Love Campy hood feel and how it looks and will speak to specialist on Monday … people seem to say it is a software problem… if not resolved, my LBS has a Dura Ace 12 on hold for me. Testing today again but in pre programmed modes and maybe only with some limited function adjustments like adding shift assist.
@derek Spratt thanks for the info, i just got my bike from bianchi, and do i have the v3 super record... i wanted to calibrated and zero it..because sometimes the crank chain slips. is that video in youtube from campagnolo realiable even if its for the v1 and v2? do you think i can just follow that?
I don't know. I think you should play around with the procedure on a bike stand - it really isn't a big thing to try out. I was simply learning and experimenting and got the system working so much better. I haven't adjusted it in about 8,000kms now and there have been zero problems. You are having the same problems I started with.