Vintage Outboard Lower Unit Gearcase Shift Rod Seal Replacement Johnson / Evinrude / OMC Part 1
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- Опубліковано 29 бер 2014
- Part 1:
Your vintage outboard motor can run for decades with easy to learn maintenance practices. This video provides an overview for a typical lower unit gearcase repair on a vintage 1956 12HP Johnson / Evinrude / OMC outboard motor.
In this session, disassemble the gearcase, and remove the prop shaft, bearings, and clutch dog. Remove the drive shaft and pinion gear as an assembly by pulling down and out through the opened gearcase. Pull the shift rod out of the lower unit so that the seal can be removed (see part 2). - Авто та транспорт
Thank you for this series on vintage Johnson. I picked up an AD 10, 1956 7.5 Seahorse at an estate sale for $50. It has great compression and the coil looks new on it. The mid section has been replaced with one a different color, probably from a Mercury, so I know that the motor was probably well maintained. I got it from a wealthy neighborhood. This week I hope to replace all of the seals in the lower unit, and the impellar. I also am going to convert it to use a single line gas tank, and I also picked up a carb kit. This video will give me the courage to tackle the lower unit and impellar. Thank you so much.
Thank you! This gave me more confidence tearing down my 1983 25hp Evinrude lower unit and putting it back together. It's not the same but similar.
I am converting #33653 from a longshaft to a short shaft, using #rdl-21. For the lay people: 1966 33hp Evinrude, 1959 35hp Johnson.
The shift rod work is the part I’m not familiar with yet out of what I’m doing... I think this video shows me what I needed to know to swap that rod.
Thankyou
Thanks for the info it helps tones with my 1974 evenirude
This is great. I just tore down my 1954 Johnson lower end which is identical and found i had a bad seal at the shift linkage.
Thanks
thank you so much.
You rock James Rite on.
Thanks for the compliment!
Thanks for the info.
Hey James, my dad has one of these and after it runs great. But when you shut it down the propeller locks up (but it frees up if you turn it backwards manually)...anyone have any suggestions? Thank you
Hey James thanks for these videos they are awesome! Got a question for you if you still check here. The Gearcase screws in my lower unit are stuck, is it OK to use a torch to heat them and see if that works them loose?
+Tim Baker Don't use a torch to try to loosen these gearcase screws. The heat will cause issues with the gearcase seals and prop seals which are rubber. I would run down to autozone and get a hand-held impact driver set like this one: www.autozone.com/ratchets-sockets-and-wrenches/impact-driver-set
alright will do, thank you very much for the reply!
Hey James, quick question... I am working on a 1967 Johnson 6hp (CD-24S). In your video, the bearing and seal slid right off (4:05 in the video). I am have a hard time getting that to slide off on my motor, it gets stuck about halfway, any suggestions?
thanks, Bily
Hope you see this... I have a 1956 sportwin 10 and it seems to have a small hole in the front of the gear case housing.. I ran the engine and pulled it out and it was leaking milky gear oil(I'm assuming). My dad suggested I look up a diagram to see if there's a factory weep hole but I haven't found one labeled. There is a hole on the flank above the gear case with old oil residue. Any thoughts on how to plug or patch that hole?
It is a weep hole that allows water in the exhaust tube to drain. Since the two cycle oil and all of the exhaust carbons are blown through this pipe, the seepage can look like milky gear oil. It normal. Dont plug thr hole.
@@WW2JeepandRifle ok so this exhaust is different from the impeller and engine exhaust coming out the back. I'm sorry for the stupid questions last thing I want is to ruin my gear assembly. this hole is in the front of the gear case and I have seen another hole on the flank. The leaking hole just seemed like impact damage due to its location. But for now I'll just keep checking and replacing the gear oil. Thanks for the response man. If you think of something feel free to send another one my way. I'm always on youtube
@@DOwhutnow if you post a video of the hole, we can confirm. Put a link in the comments here if you have a chance to do that
@@WW2JeepandRifle will do
Great video. Working on Johnson 20R-69B right now. Motor runs which was great.
On the gearcase the 69 manual shows Gearhead Case assembly OEM 0383757 then 0303997 BUSHING, Reverse gear then washer clutch dog then another washer then fwd gear. When I opened the unit i did not see the bushing - does it go inside the Gearhead Case Assembly? I can't tell if it's missing or seated inside. 2nd question. The two washers.Manuals show 2. your assembly shows 1 and my unit only had 1. On mine it doesn't look like a 2nd washer would alow clutch dog to engage fwd gear. Does your have a washer prior to fwd? I am pretty confused on whether I need to order these two parts and would appreciate your input. Very much appreciate you posting the videos and sharing your knowledge.
Bill Hutchins The 303997 bushing may have remained inside the reverse gear. You can tell if the bushing is in there if the inner surface of the reverse gear hole has a helical groove inside it. This groove allows oil to lubricate the interface between the prop shaft and the bushing. Secondly, the washers sometimes seat so tightly against the forward or reverse gears that it's hard to tell they are there. They sit into a counter-sunk area machined into the gear. I will post a video this afternoon of a 6hp gearcase tear-down showing the exact same design as those shown for the 20R-69B (albeit smaller version). Will have washers, bushings, etc. to show you what I'm talking about.
highlandoutboards Here's a video showing more detail about the components that make up the gearcase assembly: ua-cam.com/video/qOyU3Sm3WQQ/v-deo.html
Hey James, your videos are very good. I was going to see if you could help me out. I have a 1967 20hp Johnson runs good but this weekend I was on the lake everything was working good and then I was going to stop and put it into neural and it wouldn't take it or reverse but it will take forward gear.
There is an over-rev throttle stop that interacts with the gear shifter to prevent you from being able to rev the engine wide open while it's in neutral. It also can prevent you from shifting into neutral if the throttle is set too high on the tiller arm.
I was going to see if there was a gasket that goes below the impeller plate? and if so do you know the part number?
Can you provide your outboard brand, year, size, and model number?
highlandoutboards it will s a 1967 20hp Johnson model number FD-21R
no gasket
OK so where's the replacement.....