Do those panels need to be that thick, or are there other materials you can use to replace ceiling / wall panels that would be suitable? Our trailer is already pretty stout (heavy!) and want to be cautious about potentially adding weight when we do our own leakage repair.
You could eliminate them, but then what do you have between you and a tree branch that falls on the trailer? You might try corrugated fiberglass panels? They would offer you some protection with less weight, or ever corrugated tin. But you also need something for the screws that attach the paneling to anchor into. Maybe use the corrugated tin and leave it exposed and call it "rustic"?
What a project. I am in the same situation, dealing with leakage. I saw that you went around the cabinets, is it too much of a problem to remove them to access the ceiling? I hope all went well, Scott
Not sure about how easy it is to remove the cabinets since I didn't do that. But essentially everything just seems to be screwed into the steel cage frame, so it should be pretty simple.
I have water damage in my rv and unfortunately the leak is active still so it needs to be located and sealed. Having a hard time finding it from the outside roof. It would be pointless for me to put new roofing on the INSIDE if the leak is still open to water coming in. my question is how would I attach any type of paneling if the water damage was moderately bad where if you screwed holes in the screws wouldnt be able to grip into nothing but rotted wood OR insulation Im seeing. I can provide pics via email if you accept those. Im working on putting new paneling but im waiting for these cabinet holders I ordered to hold them flush to the ceiling so I can screw them in. they're way thinner than your choice of roof tho. After I get the paneling up I planned on buying cedar board to go over it .. but if I dont seal the leak, new water will just damage my expenses.. **updated (Nvm, I see you put the thick wood panel and then the cedar! gotcha thats what I need to do but there's insulation exposed so I might need 2 x 4s cut and used as braces which would probably be tacky , I don't know)
See my video on repairing the leak at ua-cam.com/video/iWAViucLLMg/v-deo.html . There should be a square steal frame that you would secure everything to.
Had a similar experience with our Class A at Camping World. Thank you for sharing your experience. I hope you've fully recovered!
I would never go to any camping world for anything! I even buy my parts online in central Texas, and save a fortune!
Thanks for sharing. This is really encouraging.
Glad it was helpful!
Do those panels need to be that thick, or are there other materials you can use to replace ceiling / wall panels that would be suitable? Our trailer is already pretty stout (heavy!) and want to be cautious about potentially adding weight when we do our own leakage repair.
You could eliminate them, but then what do you have between you and a tree branch that falls on the trailer? You might try corrugated fiberglass panels? They would offer you some protection with less weight, or ever corrugated tin. But you also need something for the screws that attach the paneling to anchor into. Maybe use the corrugated tin and leave it exposed and call it "rustic"?
Good man. Thank you so much for making this video.
Loved the video, very helpful thank you.
What is that material you used to replace the ceiling? Is that wood ? Can you please help with a link where you purchased it
It was just paneling that we bought at Lowe's, or any building supply store.
Great Job!!!!! I love it!!
What a project. I am in the same situation, dealing with leakage. I saw that you went around the cabinets, is it too much of a problem to remove them to access the ceiling? I hope all went well, Scott
Not sure about how easy it is to remove the cabinets since I didn't do that. But essentially everything just seems to be screwed into the steel cage frame, so it should be pretty simple.
I have water damage in my rv and unfortunately the leak is active still so it needs to be located and sealed. Having a hard time finding it from the outside roof. It would be pointless for me to put new roofing on the INSIDE if the leak is still open to water coming in.
my question is how would I attach any type of paneling if the water damage was moderately bad where if you screwed holes in the screws wouldnt be able to grip into nothing but rotted wood OR insulation Im seeing. I can provide pics via email if you accept those. Im working on putting new paneling but im waiting for these cabinet holders I ordered to hold them flush to the ceiling so I can screw them in.
they're way thinner than your choice of roof tho. After I get the paneling up I planned on buying cedar board to go over it .. but if I dont seal the leak, new water will just damage my expenses..
**updated (Nvm, I see you put the thick wood panel and then the cedar! gotcha thats what I need to do but there's insulation exposed so I might need 2 x 4s cut and used as braces which would probably be tacky , I don't know)
See my video on repairing the leak at ua-cam.com/video/iWAViucLLMg/v-deo.html . There should be a square steal frame that you would secure everything to.
@@PirateStu ok. thank you, will check out on break at work
A string on a nail centered would be more accurate. Not perfect, but better than that wood piece. But good video. Thanks