Hi George. This video was absolutely critical in getting my Korg 3500 back to fully working order, so thank you so much. The only original problem was some sticky keys, but I had issues finding the right lubricant and have an important additional point to make when putting the keys back in: It took me some time to realise that the reason the keys would not return fully once cleaned and re-lubricated, was that I had not replaced the white pad and circuit boards on the back! In your video you show putting the keys back in, but only by chance did I realise you'd also re-installed the circuit boards. The pads are held in and offer enough resistance that the keys DO then spring back. Otherwise they normally don't! Also I found that they needed very little lubricant, otherwise they were too sticky. I eventually used Yamaha's keyboard grease (labelled as Molykote G1006Y) but which does not seem to be available independently - only through Yamaha dealers. Now it's all back together and fully working and I'm so grateful of your video. Although it's long and at times seems slow - your very detailed comments and delivery are really useful, and worth listening carefully to. Thanks so much George.
You deserve a medal for sitting through that entire video! LOL. When I worked on my Korg, I did not remove the circuit boards under the keyboard, thus the reason not showing the installation. I probably should have removed them considering how dirty the rest of the keyboard was. Thanks for your tip on the amount of lubricant to use. I looked into the Yamaha Molykote G1006Y but it seemed so expensive. I suspect the Molykote 44 medium that I used is similar, but not sure. Thanks for writing. I'm glad the video was helpful.
I spent a long time searching for suitable grease to lubricate synthesizer keys. I ended up using Molykote G-4500 FM Grease, which seems to have the right consistency and is safe for plastics.
I also spent a lot of time looking for the right grease. Molykote makes the grease for Yamaha which is Molykote G-100GY, but it seemed really expensive. I went with Molykote 44 medium. Others have used it with success and so far, I like it.
Hello Goerge, thank you very much for this video! I'm in the process of restoring a Yamaha CLP-550. It's not the first piano I restore, and in this case I was puzzled by the keys still getting stuck after lubricating etc...your explanation on the springs is shedding light on this! In general, any siliconic grease would be suitable for this job, but as said sometimes it's difficult to find one with the right viscosity. Thanks again! 👍
Thank you for your kind words and giving the video a thumbs up. It can be really discouraging to put so much time into making a video like this and not have any feedback. Yep, if some of your keys are sitting a little lower than others, the metal spring for those keys have chewed a notch into the plastic which gives the springs less tension. Good luck with this restoration. It's tedious but the results are good.
Thanks! That's awesome. I love when people post repairs info like this.. please if you do more keep posting! The cable on my C-900 to the 3 pedals is missing from a move, do you know where I could find (1) the wiring diagram. (2) The connector to the pedal that plugs into the back?
Thanks for your comments. I really do appreciate it. I did a search for Korg c-900 service manual or schematics but nothing came up. When i bought my used C-15, it did not come with pedals. since I only use the sustain pedal, I made an adapter that converts the Korg connector into a 1/4" jack so I could use a standard pedal purchased off of Amazon. One possibility would be to contact Syntaur in Texas. They have all kinds of parts for keyboards. syntaur.com/Part-11514-Pedal-cable-Korg
Hi George. This video was absolutely critical in getting my Korg 3500 back to fully working order, so thank you so much. The only original problem was some sticky keys, but I had issues finding the right lubricant and have an important additional point to make when putting the keys back in: It took me some time to realise that the reason the keys would not return fully once cleaned and re-lubricated, was that I had not replaced the white pad and circuit boards on the back! In your video you show putting the keys back in, but only by chance did I realise you'd also re-installed the circuit boards. The pads are held in and offer enough resistance that the keys DO then spring back. Otherwise they normally don't! Also I found that they needed very little lubricant, otherwise they were too sticky. I eventually used Yamaha's keyboard grease (labelled as Molykote G1006Y) but which does not seem to be available independently - only through Yamaha dealers. Now it's all back together and fully working and I'm so grateful of your video. Although it's long and at times seems slow - your very detailed comments and delivery are really useful, and worth listening carefully to. Thanks so much George.
You deserve a medal for sitting through that entire video! LOL. When I worked on my Korg, I did not remove the circuit boards under the keyboard, thus the reason not showing the installation. I probably should have removed them considering how dirty the rest of the keyboard was. Thanks for your tip on the amount of lubricant to use. I looked into the Yamaha Molykote G1006Y but it seemed so expensive. I suspect the Molykote 44 medium that I used is similar, but not sure. Thanks for writing. I'm glad the video was helpful.
I spent a long time searching for suitable grease to lubricate synthesizer keys. I ended up using Molykote G-4500 FM Grease, which seems to have the right consistency and is safe for plastics.
I also spent a lot of time looking for the right grease. Molykote makes the grease for Yamaha which is Molykote G-100GY, but it seemed really expensive. I went with Molykote 44 medium. Others have used it with success and so far, I like it.
Hello Goerge, thank you very much for this video! I'm in the process of restoring a Yamaha CLP-550. It's not the first piano I restore, and in this case I was puzzled by the keys still getting stuck after lubricating etc...your explanation on the springs is shedding light on this!
In general, any siliconic grease would be suitable for this job, but as said sometimes it's difficult to find one with the right viscosity.
Thanks again! 👍
Thank you for your kind words and giving the video a thumbs up. It can be really discouraging to put so much time into making a video like this and not have any feedback. Yep, if some of your keys are sitting a little lower than others, the metal spring for those keys have chewed a notch into the plastic which gives the springs less tension. Good luck with this restoration. It's tedious but the results are good.
Thanks! That's awesome. I love when people post repairs info like this.. please if you do more keep posting! The cable on my C-900 to the 3 pedals is missing from a move, do you know where I could find (1) the wiring diagram. (2) The connector to the pedal that plugs into the back?
Thanks for your comments. I really do appreciate it. I did a search for Korg c-900 service manual or schematics but nothing came up. When i bought my used C-15, it did not come with pedals. since I only use the sustain pedal, I made an adapter that converts the Korg connector into a 1/4" jack so I could use a standard pedal purchased off of Amazon.
One possibility would be to contact Syntaur in Texas. They have all kinds of parts for keyboards.
syntaur.com/Part-11514-Pedal-cable-Korg
Huge shout out to the people who gave me a thumbs up. I do not make money from UA-cam but it's good to know if the video was helpful. Thank you!