@@surfingvideosfrance I was caught in a wave and my leash broke! Then I was washed by several waves, until Siam, a very nice man, grabbed me and helped me to get back safely to the shore. Shortly after I threw up because of the intensity and the panic. To be fair I wasn't supposed to get in the water in the first place, the waves were way beyond my level and I was overestimating my ability to stay safe in there.
@@NoeMicranthaMovie it's brave to have been there, the waves were very solid, it's true that this spot is one of the most intense in the region, fortunately everything is fine for you
What a day !
Yes it was a solid day !
Ouaou quel régal ❤un bon 2m😅😅😅
Plus au moins 3.20 3.50 pour moi
I can only imagine how many boards were broken this day!
I saw at least 3 boards broken 😂
The guy being rescued to the shore is me 🤷 ask me details if you want
How have you been since? what happened ?
@@surfingvideosfrance I was caught in a wave and my leash broke! Then I was washed by several waves, until Siam, a very nice man, grabbed me and helped me to get back safely to the shore. Shortly after I threw up because of the intensity and the panic. To be fair I wasn't supposed to get in the water in the first place, the waves were way beyond my level and I was overestimating my ability to stay safe in there.
@@surfingvideosfrance and now I'm good, I was very shook by this but now I know that I'll stay on the beach when waves go over 2m hugh 😂
@@NoeMicranthaMovie it's brave to have been there, the waves were very solid, it's true that this spot is one of the most intense in the region, fortunately everything is fine for you
Ben ouais mon gars, cool que ça aille bien pour toi.
Passe le message.
Pas besoin de guignol la bas.😂
Wasn't it Fioravanti?
yes it was leo