Don’t do this machine shop problems general machining knowledge cutter installation how to remove a Mores taper drill how to remove things that are stuck in a Morse taper adapter ray gallant
note to others... don't do this and you wont have to worry about losing your bearings... Also dont do this type of activity on your granite inspection plate and don't drive end mills or other cutting tools out of holders over hard concrete or granite surface to avoid chipping your brittle cutting tool when it inevitably shoots out of the holder onto the floor or hard surface.
Oh man, when you're a teacher there's always one of them in the class who didn't listen . . . I hear you. At least the student won't forget this lesson afterward! Did you just clean up the bore after with a finish reamer?
we are going to internal grind it back into good working order we should do a zoom meeting and collaborate on a video on of these days thanks for the comment Ray
I make a hammer using a chunk of pipe that slides over the mill bit. Then I tape the arbor fast to the unit, Then smack the end of the pipe on an anvil. The mill will slide down the pipe and out of the arbor. This is also a very good way to remove recessed bearings.
👍 needed that trick for a tool that had the tang cut off for some reason. The tang is important as an anti rotation too. Would have some nasty galling if the tapers let go. Thanks
From the initial glance at picture before I hit play, I thought that was a good effort snapping a 1/2 inch morse drill bit there!, this is going to be interesting - but even more of an education was finding out someone would actually put a end mill in that adaptor! Give it a kiss with a reamer to make sure it didnt raise a burr and she is good to go again.
I'm watching the start of the video and I'm saying in my head, "He's gonna need some ball bearings to get that out!" Not every morse taper you want to use in a sleeve will have a tang end, so I have used this trick quite a few times. I have stuck a slightly larger ball bearing on the end of the part going in the taper with a dab of grease since it will press on the countersink for the drawbar thread and not damage the thread or anything.
Thanks for sharing your solution I never thought of using grease to hold the wall bearing in place I did try using larger ball bearings the only problem is it wouldn’t fit in the slot And when I can’t find ball bearings I have used nuts as well This video is for students to help prevent this from happening again I’ll be showing this video during my safety week introduction to shop Thank you for taking the time to comment Ray
The tang is not a stop or a drive It is only for ejecting The Morris Taper is what holds the piece and drives the piece If there’s any damage to the taper or meeting taper you should not use it Thanks for commenting Ray
On the next "Don't do this..." Don't use a 1500 dollar surface plate as a WORKBENCH! Bet you didn't think we would notice? ;-P
you can pick them up cheap when you look , but it wont be calibrated and who knows if that is .
@@markhorner4982 I know... I just bought a pristine rock of ages for a 100bucks. Good enough for the ugly shit I make.😉😜
note to others... don't do this and you wont have to worry about losing your bearings...
Also dont do this type of activity on your granite inspection plate and don't drive end mills or other cutting tools out of holders over hard concrete or granite surface to avoid chipping your brittle cutting tool when it inevitably shoots out of the holder onto the floor or hard surface.
End mills with morse taper, i didn't even know those things would exist. You live you learn...
"Morris" is a dance.
Great tip! Thank you. Never done that, and now I doubt that I ever will.
Thank you for the comment and thank you for taking the time to comment. I’ve been told this looks staged, but honestly God this is how I found it.
Ray
sad that i knew this lol
That ball bearing trick is awesome, I didn't know that! Btw, would be interested to try our tool? Let me know :)
I would love to try out your tool
I’ve already made a thread Repairing video but I could make another one
ua-cam.com/video/Nz4xIcNHY2w/v-deo.html
That’s a great hack, one drill drift should be retired or at least have the rolled edges removed.
Absolutely right about the one drill drift
Thanks for Commenting
Ray
Oh man, when you're a teacher there's always one of them in the class who didn't listen . . . I hear you. At least the student won't forget this lesson afterward! Did you just clean up the bore after with a finish reamer?
we are going to internal grind it back into good working order
we should do a zoom meeting
and collaborate on a video on of these days
thanks for the comment
Ray
Wooops
I make a hammer using a chunk of pipe that slides over the mill bit. Then I tape the arbor fast to the unit, Then smack the end of the pipe on an anvil. The mill will slide down the pipe and out of the arbor. This is also a very good way to remove recessed bearings.
👍 needed that trick for a tool that had the tang cut off for some reason. The tang is important as an anti rotation too. Would have some nasty galling if the tapers let go. Thanks
The best is when they do that with a double ended endmill! 😆
From the initial glance at picture before I hit play, I thought that was a good effort snapping a 1/2 inch morse drill bit there!, this is going to be interesting - but even more of an education was finding out someone would actually put a end mill in that adaptor! Give it a kiss with a reamer to make sure it didnt raise a burr and she is good to go again.
Hi ;Jack
Good idea about the reamer
Thank you for sharing
Ray
I'm watching the start of the video and I'm saying in my head, "He's gonna need some ball bearings to get that out!" Not every morse taper you want to use in a sleeve will have a tang end, so I have used this trick quite a few times. I have stuck a slightly larger ball bearing on the end of the part going in the taper with a dab of grease since it will press on the countersink for the drawbar thread and not damage the thread or anything.
Thanks for sharing your solution
I never thought of using grease to hold the wall bearing in place
I did try using larger ball bearings the only problem is it wouldn’t fit in the slot
And when I can’t find ball bearings I have used nuts as well
This video is for students to help prevent this from happening again
I’ll be showing this video during my safety week introduction to shop
Thank you for taking the time to comment
Ray
Thank you! I am greatful you share your considerable knowledge.
Thank you and thank you for taking the time to comment
Ray
The tang is not a stop or a drive
It is only for ejecting
The Morris Taper is what holds the piece and drives the piece
If there’s any damage to the taper or meeting taper you should not use it
Thanks for commenting
Ray