Are you positive it wasn't a hp lockout? I couldn't see the flashes. It's really common for Rheem to hp lockout at the beginning of heating season. 60 plus outside temperature with low airflow will do it. Clogged air filter, dirty clogged evaporator or fan motor.
If I would have seen that high of pressure on low side, I would have checked amps. With the 77 degree inside temperature it seems that the pressure would have been lower. I thought just from pressures it may have been a bit overcharged. If capacitor ( if it was a psc) was weak on blower motor…that could have led to a low pressure situation by lowering fan speed. Did you figure out why it was faulting?
Ran into tho exact same problem however it was not a bad board…the txv in the condenser had a restriction and when the customer put it into heat it pulled a vacuum and tripped the low pressure switch enough times to cause the lockout
Thank you for the video,I mostly work on Goodman and Carrier,still getting knowledge from people like you.. this video is awesome,so many tips if you pay attention(I watched the video multiple times):))).. thank you sir and keep posting !.. you have one more subscriber !
9 місяців тому
he is good, and i really give him thanks..but you have to be a hvac tech, to understand what he is doing, i am not, but i am trying hard to get his teaching.
11:00 my OAT sensor was faulty/ I had both Fault Lights on hard. ...yessss the bypass! it was enough to get it going until the Board and Sensor Kit from ProTech can be ordered (in 5 days) ...your videos are a Goldmine to the Trained Eye 🐉
Yes,probes are the future of HVAC business .. I love them and Fieldpiece is the best in my opinion .. I’m using their tools and probes are next on my list to add to my tools..
That's the exact same unit / board I have at my house. This morning, I woke up to a bad capacitor. 35uF +/- 6% glad I didn't have more issues. 10yr warranty I'll be getting my free replacement cap on Monday.
Sand the tubing before putting on the clamps....Good tip on the LPS with the meter ! Possibly intermittent indoor ECM module/ no start.
7 місяців тому+2
what did you do to the pc board to make it start up? I saw you touch and jumped something up top, but ur not saying what u did. This is great info to start up a unit when it is in lock out mode. What did you jumped?
I'm pretty sure that he said he jumped/shorted the two test pins, which resets the lock-out code. This is written on the board, just below the table that explains each board status.
I'm going with a squirrely x13 or that stupid blower relay they use that's like the Goodman relay. I've replaced a couple of those. There was water gurgling in the drain trap, that could have possibly been from ice melt? On the flip side of that, I had a unit freeze the entire coil into a block of ice and the entire line set and all the way out to the compressor and the unit was still running and did not trip low pressure. 😵😵😵
Lennox does the same. I always change the defrost control board , and seems to take care of problem so far
9 місяців тому
are lennox and rheem unit functions the same? i.e. on the voltage to turn bring on the compressor in the selected modes? How do can you tell which LED is #1 or which is #2? My rheem unit has the top LED flashing and the bottom one off. What does that mean? do you know? thnx.
The board, pressure switch, depending on the type thermostat loosing G will cause that, the air handler circuit board loosing G and a failing evaporator motor/and or capacitor if it has one. And also bad relays for the evaporator motor if it’s a PSC motor and running off a relay instead of a board if it’s an older unit. But most have all of course switched to circuit boards long ago. But if it’s an indoor issue with the blower motor or it cutting off the coil of course would be iced up. And there are other issues that will cause that problem as well but they are rare. I’ve had some to drive me nuts before i found it. Expansion valves shutting closed are a rare occurrence but will cause that.
I get these calls all the time after a storm but its always high pressure lockout. I install a surge protector on the air handle and one on condenser. Does the trick.
9 місяців тому+1
A surge protector, what is that, how does that works, on rheem units.
These Ruud/Rheem units are very problematic when it comes to the defrost board. They’re constantly going on high or low pressure lockouts for no apparent reason.
The rheems are very sensitive to power glitches. A lot of times you never even know the power even glitched but it will definitely lock that board out. I have to do this to mine at least twice a year, even when it was brand new.
@@CharlesEllsworth89 If it seems to do this more often just replace the defrost board, but like mine it’s only done this 3 times. A lot of people are saying it’s low or high pressure sensors but everything on mine led me to believe it’s just minor power glitches in the HOA neighborhood. Those boards are just sensitive. Just reset it and see how long it goes.
Take a screw driver and touch the two pins that say test on the defrost board while in cool mode or just simply turn breaker on and off for air handler. That will reset your low voltage.
9 місяців тому
thank you much. will do one or the other.@@Bigsteve123
Hazah!!! For anyone looking after you clear your fault (changing filters etc) jump the two pins at top left of your board to reset it and see if it trips again.
9 місяців тому+1
which i could tell what did from this video, i am having the issues on my rheem unit, but is not able to follow here. thnx still.
I'd prob just bypass low pressure switch. Does it again it's definitely the board. Come back out and frozen or not cooling. Then it's blower or txv...very rare issue would be a closed evap circuit. Slowly freezes up after day or two.
9 місяців тому+1
how do u do that?? BYPASS LOW PRESSURE SWITCH. we are all not techs, or mechs. It would be nice if when ppl say things, they would tell the procedure or give an idea of how it is done.
Go to HVAC school man you expect professionals to explain what we learn in years of school and exp in a UA-cam comment.
6 місяців тому+1
@@The1realro You are of the "CRAB" generation. And thats ok, we have learnt enough about ur kind,. But try to see the good that good people do. IT may help, to be a better person, eerr, CRAB.
Lol shut up man you are a bird and it doesn't matter what generation you are from. I'm 29 with 6 years of HVAC knowledge and still so much to learn but we have to be resourceful. You can easily search up how to bypass LP switch instead of begging a stranger for answers. Mind you, the stranger isn't even the maker of the video.
on Wednesday I had a condenser unit that would not start. The code was locked out on pressure. I went to touch the compressor but it was cold so I put on gauges and the charge pressure seemed ok. I was going to test the cap when I notice my common from the board was burned out. I had it running for 15 minutes and took an amp reading and called a day.
Thanks for the video. So LPS, defrost Board, Blower failure, TXV is our options lol. Let us know what happens. I’m leaning toward blower. I’d bypass the switch and board and if it actually freezes up than it’s gotta be the blower. TXV’s usually don’t unstick. If a while passes with no issues than at least we know the issue 🤪 by that time you’ve spent too long lol hate intermittent issues!
I have the rheem 13pjl24a01… at the top of your board I notice your red is connected above brown… I don’t have a red plugged in but have a rogue red wire that looks out of place… should a red wire be connected? What I thought was a bad capacitor, still didn’t solve the issue, just hums with no motion.
I have this same problem. Low pressure switch open on a rp1436aj1na. I'm hoping it's something simple. We just had the condenser coil replaced last winter due to ice damage, and im hoping it didn't freeze up again and grenade itself.
The carrier infinity communicating defrost board is the most full of enigmas
9 місяців тому
Could you say what terminals ur testing, what reading ur getting, is the unit on or off as you make ur tests, what ur expecting etc etc, it would be a great help. thnx.
Just out of curiosity, how common are Heat pumps? I've always heard of them but never seen one with my own eyes because nobody I know has one, and I live in Louisiana which is an area that is considerd good for a heat pump system but like I said I've never seen one.
What a stupid design. The control should resume operation automatically once the fault condition clears. Do you think they might have had a dirty filter? What do you think about jumping the lps circuit on the board, then rewiring the lps to be in series with the yellow wire input to the condenser? This way you'll eliminate nuisance lockouts while maintaining the ability to cut out during a low pressure condition. If the board locks out while bypassed, then you know the board is at fault. If you have some other intermittent issue, it will eventually get worse, so it can be identified.
It’s the control board I had a subdivision with all rheem units. Multiple calls to diff houses rheem supplier told me they were defective and he had been swapping them out all month
I’ve got 2 units at a house right now with similar issues. One has a chattering, arcing contactor that blows the 3 amp fuse and one that says it’s in lockout due to low pressure. Reset the board and it shows low pressure again despite low pressure testing ok. I’ve ordered defrost/control boards for both. Hope I’m on the right track.
I’m looking to replace my 34-year-old Rheem. And I sure don’t want that condenser. Just to say I’m electrician and I have stocked the cap and the contactor for mine. And it’s never went out lock I don’t know. And it sucks that I have to do so because they’re all made like crap now.
I have found 2 unit do that 1st one I just ran pigtail from common to one of contactor ran fine customer never called me back on replacing defrost board either he called someone else or its still running thats been 4yrs .
This is one reason I can’t stand rheem. A cabin rental facility that my company now services has all rheem equipment and every summer we will go back to the same units 2-3 times ( of course in the middle of the night half the time) and reset the high pressure lock out. All units are good on charge coils are clean blowers are working filters clean and blower wheels Are clean.
Does the LP lock out require resetting the board or will it auto-clear? My HP switch developed a resistance across it last Spring. Initially, diagnosed as a bad board because of flash code confusion between the comfort alert (on schematic) and the board flash code (on a sticker at far extreme from schematic). I doubted the diag so tested the pressure switches and found the HP had about 15 ohms across it going up to 30 when running where it shut off. Oddly, the unit would work from sundown till a couple hours after sunup. Long story short, they came with a board and HP switch, confirmed and changed the HP switch. Small hairline crack was found on the switch. With the recent AT temp changes could there be a hairline crack in the LP switch that opens when it gets colder? Might be worth changing the LP switch is cheap for the customer. Or put your meter on the switch then chill it somehow. I had a similar issue with my internet. Twice a year or so it would get sketchy but for several years they found nothing except that it couldn't handle the higher speed service. Then one year, the tech found a cracked insulator at the pole that would get pulled open when it was colder and windy.
I don’t think the board will auto clear. Reset the board by d/c the low voltage to it. What it looks like he did was short the R C which would interrupt current to the board and reset it.
Bad contactor. Check coil. Causes a voltage drain and gets stuck flashing pressure switch wont start condenser
9 місяців тому+1
maannn i wish you would say what ur doing, or describe what ur doing as ur doing it. it would be a lot more helpful to the people who come ur channel. I have a rheem unit that is giving the same issue, as this one here, but i did not get anything much from you here, because you are not talking or saying what you are doing as you are doing it. But thnx still i will try harder to see what i can gather from you. it will be a challenge though.
IF I can ask you. My parents church have a RP1460AJINA. When I press the contactor, it just CLICKED. Nothing. I replaced the contactor and the cap. Still the same. I get 240V to L1 and L3. But I replaced the contactor anyway. I would start with no trouble codes but after I press the contact and CLICK, I would get a trouble code. some type of flash but I gave up after 2 hrs. Any suggestions?
I think I have the same unit and its been a pain in the ass, they are the loudest heat pump. With that steep angle two blade fan spinning at 1075Rpm. Most twin blade fans spin at 825 so you don't get that chop chop pulsation. My old 1989Rheem heat pump was so quite you could barley hear it and it lasted forever. Now I am in hell I cant sleep in my bedroom cause it keeps me up. They don't heat worth a shit now also. The old heat pump would heat it felt really warm this is just cold air . I am going to have to Rip out that outdoor unit and put a Mr Cool Universal outside I bought at a scratch and dent . I will never buy another Rheem.
I know whats wrong with it!! Its a Rheem!!! If you go Rheem you get reamed. I worked for an HVAC contractor couple years ago over a summer, 7 out of every 10 units we replaced was a Rheem the other 3 was either Lenox or Ruud systems..
3 місяці тому
YEah I agree, Rheen units sucks, My 2yrs unit has a leak at a soldered joint, and the tech says it is a real common issue with RHEEM. Why cant they SOLDET THESE JOINS PROPERLY, ON THE HIGH SIDE that has THE HIGH PRESSURE SWITCH. DO they care about their name?
I’ll try to make sure I post a video if I can zero in on exactly what was causing this.
Are you positive it wasn't a hp lockout? I couldn't see the flashes. It's really common for Rheem to hp lockout at the beginning of heating season. 60 plus outside temperature with low airflow will do it. Clogged air filter, dirty clogged evaporator or fan motor.
If I would have seen that high of pressure on low side, I would have checked amps. With the 77 degree inside temperature it seems that the pressure would have been lower. I thought just from pressures it may have been a bit overcharged. If capacitor ( if it was a psc) was weak on blower motor…that could have led to a low pressure situation by lowering fan speed. Did you figure out why it was faulting?
Did you happen to figure out the cause?
Did the new board fix the issue?
thank so much for ur info, on this board. I will try to see, what i can do to get this going base on ur info. Thnx@@Bryan-Hensley
You do a really good job explaining what your doing and thank you very much for all the tips. Keep the videos coming 😀
Xhjcjffjhcucjficofj
if ur a tech, i guess, because i am trying hard to figure out what he doing, but it will take quite a few more sessions.
Ran into tho exact same problem however it was not a bad board…the txv in the condenser had a restriction and when the customer put it into heat it pulled a vacuum and tripped the low pressure switch enough times to cause the lockout
Thank you for the video,I mostly work on Goodman and Carrier,still getting knowledge from people like you.. this video is awesome,so many tips if you pay attention(I watched the video multiple times):))).. thank you sir and keep posting !.. you have one more subscriber !
he is good, and i really give him thanks..but you have to be a hvac tech, to understand what he is doing, i am not, but i am trying hard to get his teaching.
11:00
my OAT sensor was faulty/ I had both Fault Lights on hard.
...yessss the bypass! it was enough to get it going until the Board and Sensor Kit from ProTech can be ordered (in 5 days)
...your videos are a Goldmine to the Trained Eye 🐉
Wow, those refrigerant measuring instruments that connect to your phone are interesting. Everything seems so much more compact than it used to be.
Yes,probes are the future of HVAC business .. I love them and Fieldpiece is the best in my opinion .. I’m using their tools and probes are next on my list to add to my tools..
Great job diagnosing the issue.
That's the exact same unit / board I have at my house. This morning, I woke up to a bad capacitor. 35uF +/- 6% glad I didn't have more issues. 10yr warranty I'll be getting my free replacement cap on Monday.
Sand the tubing before putting on the clamps....Good tip on the LPS with the meter ! Possibly intermittent indoor ECM module/ no start.
what did you do to the pc board to make it start up? I saw you touch and jumped something up top, but ur not saying what u did. This is great info to start up a unit when it is in lock out mode. What did you jumped?
I'm pretty sure that he said he jumped/shorted the two test pins, which resets the lock-out code. This is written on the board, just below the table that explains each board status.
I'm going with a squirrely x13 or that stupid blower relay they use that's like the Goodman relay. I've replaced a couple of those. There was water gurgling in the drain trap, that could have possibly been from ice melt?
On the flip side of that, I had a unit freeze the entire coil into a block of ice and the entire line set and all the way out to the compressor and the unit was still running and did not trip low pressure. 😵😵😵
I see that a lot from multiple brands. What the heck is going on.
Did you figure out that frozen unit's problem? Was it a malfunctioning TXV?
Hey man just wanted to say thanks saved me a trip from the hvac guy.
Lennox does the same. I always change the defrost control board , and seems to take care of problem so far
are lennox and rheem unit functions the same? i.e. on the voltage to turn bring on the compressor in the selected modes? How do can you tell which LED is #1 or which is #2? My rheem unit has the top LED flashing and the bottom one off. What does that mean? do you know? thnx.
Read the text on the board. The LEDs are labeled, and there's a small table that explains what each code means.
Awesome video I learn so much watching them thank you!!
The board, pressure switch, depending on the type thermostat loosing G will cause that, the air handler circuit board loosing G and a failing evaporator motor/and or capacitor if it has one. And also bad relays for the evaporator motor if it’s a PSC motor and running off a relay instead of a board if it’s an older unit. But most have all of course switched to circuit boards long ago. But if it’s an indoor issue with the blower motor or it cutting off the coil of course would be iced up. And there are other issues that will cause that problem as well but they are rare. I’ve had some to drive me nuts before i found it. Expansion valves shutting closed are a rare occurrence but will cause that.
I get these calls all the time after a storm but its always high pressure lockout. I install a surge protector on the air handle and one on condenser. Does the trick.
A surge protector, what is that, how does that works, on rheem units.
Never even heard of thatn
These Ruud/Rheem units are very problematic when it comes to the defrost board. They’re constantly going on high or low pressure lockouts for no apparent reason.
The rheems are very sensitive to power glitches. A lot of times you never even know the power even glitched but it will definitely lock that board out. I have to do this to mine at least twice a year, even when it was brand new.
What exactly you have to do? Same problem
@@CharlesEllsworth89 If it seems to do this more often just replace the defrost board, but like mine it’s only done this 3 times. A lot of people are saying it’s low or high pressure sensors but everything on mine led me to believe it’s just minor power glitches in the HOA neighborhood. Those boards are just sensitive. Just reset it and see how long it goes.
how do you RESET this board? please@@Bigsteve123
Take a screw driver and touch the two pins that say test on the defrost board while in cool mode or just simply turn breaker on and off for air handler. That will reset your low voltage.
thank you much. will do one or the other.@@Bigsteve123
Been on several with same issue. You can install a bypass timer (ICM 175B) for the low pressure switch .
I didn’t know of this timer
Please explain the bypass timer I am interested in this modification. Thanks
Hazah!!! For anyone looking after you clear your fault (changing filters etc) jump the two pins at top left of your board to reset it and see if it trips again.
which i could tell what did from this video, i am having the issues on my rheem unit, but is not able to follow here. thnx still.
I'd prob just bypass low pressure switch. Does it again it's definitely the board. Come back out and frozen or not cooling. Then it's blower or txv...very rare issue would be a closed evap circuit. Slowly freezes up after day or two.
how do u do that?? BYPASS LOW PRESSURE SWITCH. we are all not techs, or mechs. It would be nice if when ppl say things, they would tell the procedure or give an idea of how it is done.
Go to HVAC school man you expect professionals to explain what we learn in years of school and exp in a UA-cam comment.
@@The1realro You are of the "CRAB" generation. And thats ok, we have learnt enough about ur kind,. But try to see the good that good people do. IT may help, to be a better person, eerr, CRAB.
Lol shut up man you are a bird and it doesn't matter what generation you are from. I'm 29 with 6 years of HVAC knowledge and still so much to learn but we have to be resourceful. You can easily search up how to bypass LP switch instead of begging a stranger for answers. Mind you, the stranger isn't even the maker of the video.
on Wednesday I had a condenser unit that would not start. The code was locked out on pressure. I went to touch the compressor but it was cold so I put on gauges and the charge pressure seemed ok. I was going to test the cap when I notice my common from the board was burned out. I had it running for 15 minutes and took an amp reading and called a day.
Thanks for the video. So LPS, defrost Board, Blower failure, TXV is our options lol. Let us know what happens. I’m leaning toward blower. I’d bypass the switch and board and if it actually freezes up than it’s gotta be the blower. TXV’s usually don’t unstick. If a while passes with no issues than at least we know the issue 🤪 by that time you’ve spent too long lol hate intermittent issues!
but moisture in the system could ice the txv.
I have the rheem 13pjl24a01… at the top of your board I notice your red is connected above brown… I don’t have a red plugged in but have a rogue red wire that looks out of place… should a red wire be connected? What I thought was a bad capacitor, still didn’t solve the issue, just hums with no motion.
could be moisture,but most likely lps,you can put temporary lps at service port.tricky one.
That gurgling noise is driving me crazy!!!!
Possible issue with the x13 blower intermittently cutting out causing the low pressure? I hate intermittent issues like that
Yes, that’s true.
I have this problem a lot high pressure always has me out but pressures are good
I have this same problem. Low pressure switch open on a rp1436aj1na. I'm hoping it's something simple. We just had the condenser coil replaced last winter due to ice damage, and im hoping it didn't freeze up again and grenade itself.
The carrier infinity communicating defrost board is the most full of enigmas
Could you say what terminals ur testing, what reading ur getting, is the unit on or off as you make ur tests, what ur expecting etc etc, it would be a great help. thnx.
Sounds like a stopped up gutter dripping on the turnout. I had to fix one by my bedroom so I could sleep!
Nice job ... Thx for sharing ...
THE JAMES BOND OF HVAC.
I'm getting a high pressure lock out, pressures look good. Unit (HP) will start up and shut off in 30 seconds
I begin to develop a hating relationship with these unti😅
How much did it cost for the defrost control board
Question. What wires did you touch with the screw driver to jump the lock out out
Test lead together
Just out of curiosity, how common are Heat pumps? I've always heard of them but never seen one with my own eyes because nobody I know has one, and I live in Louisiana which is an area that is considerd good for a heat pump system but like I said I've never seen one.
They are about 50% of my calls
Heat pumps are 99% of my calls and installs. I've been working on them since 1988. I live in East Tennessee
Very common in Central Florida. Both air to air and water to air heat pumps. They were in use when I began the trade n 1963.
What a stupid design. The control should resume operation automatically once the fault condition clears. Do you think they might have had a dirty filter? What do you think about jumping the lps circuit on the board, then rewiring the lps to be in series with the yellow wire input to the condenser? This way you'll eliminate nuisance lockouts while maintaining the ability to cut out during a low pressure condition. If the board locks out while bypassed, then you know the board is at fault. If you have some other intermittent issue, it will eventually get worse, so it can be identified.
It’s the control board I had a subdivision with all rheem units. Multiple calls to diff houses rheem supplier told me they were defective and he had been swapping them out all month
I’ve got 2 units at a house right now with similar issues. One has a chattering, arcing contactor that blows the 3 amp fuse and one that says it’s in lockout due to low pressure. Reset the board and it shows low pressure again despite low pressure testing ok. I’ve ordered defrost/control boards for both. Hope I’m on the right track.
I’m looking to replace my 34-year-old Rheem. And I sure don’t want that condenser. Just to say I’m electrician and I have stocked the cap and the contactor for mine. And it’s never went out lock I don’t know. And it sucks that I have to do so because they’re all made like crap now.
My customer has a similar issue the compressor nor motor turn on it is on trip/lock may be similar issue. 4 ton gas pack
I have found 2 unit do that 1st one I just ran pigtail from common to one of contactor ran fine customer never called me back on replacing defrost board either he called someone else or its still running thats been 4yrs .
What is that bubble sound
Curious as to what the problem was. Mine has started giving me the LP lockout.
This is one reason I can’t stand rheem. A cabin rental facility that my company now services has all rheem equipment and every summer we will go back to the same units 2-3 times ( of course in the middle of the night half the time) and reset the high pressure lock out. All units are good on charge coils are clean blowers are working filters clean and blower wheels Are clean.
Does the LP lock out require resetting the board or will it auto-clear? My HP switch developed a resistance across it last Spring. Initially, diagnosed as a bad board because of flash code confusion between the comfort alert (on schematic) and the board flash code (on a sticker at far extreme from schematic). I doubted the diag so tested the pressure switches and found the HP had about 15 ohms across it going up to 30 when running where it shut off. Oddly, the unit would work from sundown till a couple hours after sunup.
Long story short, they came with a board and HP switch, confirmed and changed the HP switch. Small hairline crack was found on the switch.
With the recent AT temp changes could there be a hairline crack in the LP switch that opens when it gets colder? Might be worth changing the LP switch is cheap for the customer. Or put your meter on the switch then chill it somehow.
I had a similar issue with my internet. Twice a year or so it would get sketchy but for several years they found nothing except that it couldn't handle the higher speed service. Then one year, the tech found a cracked insulator at the pole that would get pulled open when it was colder and windy.
I believe I’m heading back tomorrow I can check then
I don’t think the board will auto clear. Reset the board by d/c the low voltage to it. What it looks like he did was short the R C which would interrupt current to the board and reset it.
Breaking the Hi and Low pressure switches with the red wire and the defrost board with the common seems like asking for trouble .
Just until I get back.
Nice work
Curious was it a nest tstat?
Bad contactor. Check coil. Causes a voltage drain and gets stuck flashing pressure switch wont start condenser
maannn i wish you would say what ur doing, or describe what ur doing as ur doing it. it would be a lot more helpful to the people who come ur channel. I have a rheem unit that is giving the same issue, as this one here, but i did not get anything much from you here, because you are not talking or saying what you are doing as you are doing it. But thnx still i will try harder to see what i can gather from you. it will be a challenge though.
If you need more explanation than what he provides then you might reconsider doing the work yourself
IF I can ask you. My parents church have a RP1460AJINA. When I press the contactor, it just CLICKED. Nothing. I replaced the contactor and the cap. Still the same. I get 240V to L1 and L3. But I replaced the contactor anyway. I would start with no trouble codes but after I press the contact and CLICK, I would get a trouble code. some type of flash but I gave up after 2 hrs.
Any suggestions?
I t looks like my church board is like yours...did you jump/short the E1? Should I try that too? With the power on?
What should I read at the board for LPressure and H pressure?
Curious was it a Nest tstat?
No, it was a Honeywell
My heat pump is blowing but not hot air. Why? Is it about gas? I have no gas tank. I don't see control unit?
Do you test with 0 energy?
I think I have the same unit and its been a pain in the ass, they are the loudest heat pump. With that steep angle two blade fan spinning at 1075Rpm. Most twin blade fans spin at 825 so you don't get that chop chop pulsation. My old 1989Rheem heat pump was so quite you could barley hear it and it lasted forever. Now I am in hell I cant sleep in my bedroom cause it keeps me up. They don't heat worth a shit now also. The old heat pump would heat it felt really warm this is just cold air . I am going to have to Rip out that outdoor unit and put a Mr Cool Universal outside I bought at a scratch and dent . I will never buy another Rheem.
Bet it's a Sticking TXV.
I touched the red with the brown 😔 now I can’t find the fuse
Hi what u touch with the screwdriver? To turn on ??
Little pins on the board labeled “test”
what is a splitter
They just keep making shit more complicated. What’s wrong with just the And the contactor. I suppose there’s no money in that.
422b?
how to you charge system with those gauges?
Bluetooth
WHAT is that bubbling brook noise?
The drain. The p-trap was right next to me, and it was nearly dry after I vacuumed it out. The air handler was pulling air through it.
Oh the stress.
Was that a 16 seer condenser?
14
I know whats wrong with it!! Its a Rheem!!! If you go Rheem you get reamed. I worked for an HVAC contractor couple years ago over a summer, 7 out of every 10 units we replaced was a Rheem the other 3 was either Lenox or Ruud systems..
YEah I agree, Rheen units sucks, My 2yrs unit has a leak at a soldered joint, and the tech says it is a real common issue with RHEEM. Why cant they SOLDET THESE JOINS PROPERLY, ON THE HIGH SIDE that has THE HIGH PRESSURE SWITCH. DO they care about their name?
Mines blinking just like that. Did everything in this video and still can't get it to kick on. Furnace in basement is on but this pos won't start
Coil temp is high
Me, I'd rip that board out and rewire the whole unit...
For? What reason? 🤔
👍
Prob a stupid X13!
Bad contactor
Can’t watch this one. That noise is to damn annoying.
Check the indoor fan on that Goodman?
Nice field hack👍🏻
🥃🥃🍺🍺🍺🍇🏌🏻♀️
Stay safe.
Retired (werk'n) keyboard super tech. Wear your safety glasses!
It’s a matching 3 year old Ruud
@@HVACGUY just kidding 😂
I thought only Goodman's needed work😅🤣😉👍🏻