Cristy Gratziani Sadly no. It is our hope that your president Trump will share such technologies with us in exchange for mass Trolling attacks on political enemies. Until such time, we suffer the indignities of sloshing through our own feces in the dark. Is so sad.
Down in the comments, David Sonnenborg mentioned using a pipe wrench to accomplish the same thing. I was trying to get a hub off a 2005 Chevy Colorado - to replace the rotor. After reading his suggestion I went out and put my biggest pipe wrench on the bad rotor and hit it with my 3 lb hammer. Didn't budge. Went and got the ten pound sledge and hit it once and it broke loose. So, it pays to read the comments!! Saved me over $100 dollars using tools I already had. And kept me from storing another seldom used tool. Thank you David.
IT WORKS!!! The rear hub on my 2001 Bonneville SSEI was welded to the knuckle from rust and corrosion due to dissimilar metals. I tried all my normal tricks and even tried a few new ones I saw online. Nothing was working. Then, I saw this video and realized that the torque forces this tool utilizes are all in the correction direction and axis. I went outside, put a pipe wrench directly onto the top of the bearing hub and in two whacks with a mallet, that miserable hub broke free. Great invention, the physics of the tool are impeccable. If I did this for a living, I would thank you with a purchase. Cheers!
Pipe wrench on the top of the hub worked great ! That and a couple light whacks with a 5 lb sledge hammer loosened it right away and then pulled it out the rest of the way by hand. And everyone's probably got a pipe wrench.
David Sonn You risk breaking the assembly in half with those forces. It needs to come straight out. Not on an angle. Break it in half and good luck getting the old section out of the knuckle. You'll need a machine shop.
I've worked as a mechanic for nearly a decade now and I've done many hub assembly replacements. I was introduced to the hub buster about two years ago and have loved it since the first time I used it. Never had and adverse effects to the spindles on any vehicle. The tool absolutely fantastic. I only wish I'd have came up with the idea myself!!
Reading the negative comments on here. Obviously some of you haven't run into a rusted hub. I had a dodge ram 2500 with hubs that were seized on. I have a nice slide hammer and it wouldn't budge it. I heated it, hit it, pb blaster and nothing. I would've gladly paid for this tool if it works as demonstrated
I went through this as well, I used bolts and nuts to press it out, against the hub and knuckle, used washers as a spacer and unscrewed the bolt to press it out, worked very well. I didn't want to pull the knuckle to press it
Seriously it's frustrating I have a 04 durango I've been trying to get the hubs off in total about 2.5 days nothing is working the only thing I don't have access to is a smoke wrench (oxy acc torch) today I thought I had it nailed as the 10 inch gear puller I ordered arrived the hub has been sitting 3 days sprayed daily with Pb blaster I was sure it was coming off 4 turns into the process I looked to see if there was any progress and discovered the shaft on the gear puller had bent the hub never moved...... So I feel your pain
Brandon Cart Thats how I do it. I have set of bolts that I use just to take them apart. Then clean the mating surfaces and use lots of anti seize when putting it back together.
My 94 2500 diesel was a nightmare to pull the hubs off of. During the axle rebuild I had to heat the damn things to red hot on the front and beat on them with a sledge to get them to give enough space to force a breaker bar into to finally pop them free. There’s one guy up there that’s saying that you’ll egg shape your parts that way- the only part that will egg shape will be the old hub. Not the joint on the suspension. Weaker component is always the bearings. And if you DO actually egg out your suspension, dude... you got way bigger problems then needing new bearings 😂😂😂
Made my own version of this in 30 minutes at home today and broke the rear hubs off my expedition (I’m in Michigan) in only a few swings, before I saw this I was beating the hub for an hour. Thanks for the vid!
I took an old brake disc and bolted it in place over the hub but with the inside facing out. That gives you sort of a "flange" to pound on with a hammer. It took me 3 good whacks to take it off. Easy as that and didn't have to buy an expensive tool. The hub was fused solid due to winter driving in Canada.
After spending a whole bloody day and watching mass videos how to remove a stubborn hub being only one that I tried. I came across your comment. After visualising your idea!! I thought this would be the best one that I'd try on my 08 Equinox, worse ones for seized hubs. Three good wacks with a 30 lb. sledge gave me a lot of lead way to pry the sob out within 5 mins. You my man are a damn genius with a brilliant idea! I can't thank you enough after pounding and trying everything all day that pissed me off. Thinking I would have to bring it in somewhere. Thanks to you I didn't have to. Came right in the house to look this back up so I can leave you this comment. From one Canuck to another your comment was very much appreciated. CHEERS! and thank you again!!!
*_This tool is amazing. One of my favorites now. I have been fighting wheel bearings for 20 years because of rust and corrosion. I live in the rust belt and certain models are beyond extremely hard. This tool will has fixed all my bearing removal problems. It's simple, cheap and universal. Excellent tool!! I love it. I recommend it. Thank you._*
Used a hub buster today. Made about 10 hits with 10lbs sledge hammer. Didn't think the hub was coming out after hit #10 . But it came out. Thanks hub buster!
B&V Automotive here in cold ass Decatur Illinois... We have been killing ourselfs on a rear hub and bearing assembly on this damn 08 Cadillac cts4... Tried everything... This looks like the best one yet so we are taking 20min to build something as close as possible to this HUB GRABBER! WISH US LUCK, Ill let you no in about 20min how it turns out for us
Billy B so why not get an old rotor blow a couple hokes in it run a lateral pull to a sokid point tow truck wall clevis maybe a lift put some tension on it attaching thfough blown holes with cjmalong crank it tight and beat it then crank znd whale igll creep out ps only whale on rotor as not to dzmage any important part
I feel bad because the idea is awesome and I want the guy to make money but the tradesman in me is walking out to the shop and welding one up as we speak.
I’ve seen wheel bearings so stuck a 6’ wrecking bar wouldn’t break them free.. this looks like a gimmick to me that’s just going to bend and cause a lot of people to smack the fender, like it looks like you’ve already done..
Miraak someone ate a few too many Wheaties yesterday morning or what? Most people are just that bad with a sledge that they’d hit the fender. I stand by that this is a useless invention
FATWONG 36 the issue is in the fact that there’s so much force being put to it where it meets the hub that it’s just going to bend eventually, and most people will find a way to damage their car or hurt themselves with this no matter the length
@@Beandiptheredneck Too many Wheaties? I almost didn't roll my eyes. Good for you, you have sense of humor as dry and uninviting as the cereal. Most people aren't going to be trying to unseize and replace their own hubs. And if they are, they are going to be someone who has enough familiarity with tools that they should be able to control something like a sledgehammer. Admittedly they could be more familiar with smaller, more precise tools, but those still require decent hand-eye coordination and motor control, which translates easily enough over to something bigger. Hell, even a small five or ten-pound mallet sledge could do the trick with this. In case you don't know, that's a tiny little sledgehammer on a handle about the size of a camp axe shaft. Again, if you're someone who is attempting to do this yourself, you should be smart enough to be able to figure out how to use the apparently complex tool that is a sledgehammer. I'm fully aware that many people are bad with sledgehammers. I'm again also fully aware that those people aren't usually the type to do shit like this. Sometimes they are, but usually not. And if they ARE bad with a sledge, guess what? They don't have to use this. So, it's only useless for some people. Other people would love something like this. Similar Example: Some people are bad at riding bicycles because they have shit control over their balance. They aren't required to buy one. Bikes are for people who can ride one and enjoy riding them. Sure, some people will get them anyway because 'Oh I can ride it eventually' then they end up with bruises and scrapes, but that's their fault for being stupid and not accepting theie limits. Doesn't make bicycles a 'useless invention', now does it? No. Same with this. People who can use it properly would love it. Several people in the comment section are already planning on making their own. It's not useless, it's just for certain people. Congratulations, you've done nothing but state you have an opinion, and a poorly founded one at that.
+Ryan Richards I used my 5lb slide hammer for a good 3-4 minutes and nothing happened. With just two hits using this theory, it broke clean away. This is a legitimate tactic to keep in your bag of tricks. Cheers. -Oh, I used a pipe wrench instead of waiting for the tool to come in the mail.
+Mechanicable When one gets seized up real bad, penetrating fluid won't help. The steel of the hub and the aluminum of the knuckle are actually fused together with a sort of weld.
Hello, I purchased this tool: I have a STUBBORN wheel bearing / hub assy! The metal backing plate sandwiches the hub and carrier Making a welded with rust cover a large surface area. I have HIT it HARD! then I found the biggest hammer I could (Not as big as yours) and HIT it HARDER! still not budging. I have used a jack on the end of it from the bottom along with hit the top. It's a good tool (In theory) I think I need a hammer like yours. No excuse. I have HIT it about 100 times over about 2 hours. With all I have. Great video. I wouldn't say yours is that bad actually in comoarison thine one I have a headache over. :(
As the owner of a 2001 Silverado that lives on a dirt road in Michigan with all the dirt, water, salt, snow, and grime, I can attest to the problems of changing wheel hubs like this. If you're one of those that doesn't think this video is real, you've never had to change a stuck hub like this one shown here. I know what my summer build project is going to be :D
Doesn't the Silverado have a complete hub unit? Just don't do the bolts and the whole unit together comes out, bearing hub and all. My Chevy avalanche comes with the hub assembly and bearing as one complete unit. Undo the bolts, pull it off of, put the new one on, re-bolt, done. I figured the Silverado would be the same way.
@@nickdial8528 Silverado's are notorious for having their hubs practically welded in because of all the crap that gets in there. However, at the time I wrote that comment, I had not yet figured out that an impact hammer works just fine for it. You back out the bolts, then turn the threads back in just a couple turns, then you use the impact hammer on the heads of the bolts to push the hub out. It's extremely slow and you have to go around to each bolt so it doesn't cock to one side too much. Then you can remove the bolts once they bottom out and knock it all off with a sledge hammer.
Looks like a great tool. And when I come to remove one of these hub's i'll be sure to copy the design and make my own out of about $10 of scrap metal from around the shop. Thanks for the video!
I’m a mechanic here in Atlanta .I never have a problem removing a bearing ..I hit it with a small sledgehammer a couple times but it always comes right out..Does look like a pretty cool tool although 🤔
Try it on a Ford Explorer. I’ve had to up a 20 ton press to separate frozen bolted in bearings from the steering knuckle. The rear bearings are next to impossible to get apart too.
This tool is useless if youve hammered on the hub so much that the bearing assembly crumbles before your eyes and all you have left is the housing still fused to the knuckle. now what?
That happened to me. That's when you have to remove the axle from the hub and beat the fuck out of the bearing from underneath the car and from behind. All while using a half can of pb blaster. 3 hours later and it was off. :/
I used a stubby hammer, half inch chisel and tapped it out from behind. It came out quite quickly considering I spent hours destroying the hub prior to that with a slide hammer. The trick was to tap it a few times in one spot then do the same on the opposite side.
Yup David G...just like the guy who invented the wrench... "a piece of metal that attaches to the lug for leverage". The same can be said of almost any tool. As such, what he invented was a tool... and a darn useful one at that!
Yeah it is fascinating seeing as how no one else came up with this idea and it seemingly works because of the way it concentrates the forces of hitting it with the sledgehammer. Sounds like you are just a grumpy piece if shit that is mad because you didn't think of this idea. Moron
I used alot of liqued wrench and let it sit for an hour. I supported the knuckle in a manner that would allow the hub to fall to the ground if i hit it from the back with a block of wood and a hammer. It popped right out. It was a 1990 Accord with 170K, California car.
This is fine if your planning on replacing the bearing anyway. If your going in to replace something else and plan to re-use the bearing, plan for if to fail shortly after.
You wouldn't be removing it if you were going to reuse it unless you pull one from the junk yard, in that case you should remove the strut bolts and ball joint
If you need to do the front wheel bearing and there rusted in there I perfect this trick your vehicle is equipped with a hydraulic press (aka power steering) thread a bolt in and out the socket on and an extension somewhere solid and turn the wheel works like a charm
It does work great on most trucks but on cars and other vehicles there is no good place to prop from.. so this is even better, I will be welding one up..
It may help, but the hub buster's utility is in the significant amount of leverage that it provides. The tire won't provide the same amount of leverage but likely better than nothing
You must have never done a 10 year old car from the salt country. I have just finished doing my 2005 Equinox this week I spent a half hour with the air chisel, Tried the slide hammer until all the nerves in my hand were damaged before. Destroyed 3 cold chisels this time and ruined the shield. Heated the hub flange till red hot let it cool and no dice. Made this tool and about three wacks from the top and same from the bottom and out it came. I had soaked it with PB Blaster about 4 times and even had it soaking over night, No go. One thing I did do was set an axle stand under the ball joint before hitting it with a 4 lb. sledge. This helps the other parts from getting damaged by the shock. When even after 2 days of pouring on both PB Blaster and liquid wrench there was no sign of anything having gotten down in between there. I did have to heat the al. knuckle with the torch before I got the first sign of movement
Nick Jonkman i literally just did this job today on my equinox and i found it to be wayyyyyy easier to just take the knuckle off the vehicle and mount in a vice, heat up knuckle ( very carefully ) and hit the bearing with a 5 pound sledge. it took 4 good hits and it was out. *backstory* the equinox was making noise from pass.bearing last year so i bought 2 bearings to do both sides....well after doing the pass side (the bad one) witch took me 8hrs of trying everything from beating, slide hammer, heating, air chisel ext. when i finally got finished i realized i knocked the spring off strut perch from beating on it so hard. long story short i said screw the driver side as it wasn't noisy and i didn't have energy to do it. so when the drivers side needed doing this weekend i said screw it im taking the knuckle out so i had more room to work on it.......BEST DECISION I COULD HAVE MADE, took a fraction of the time to do
Some of you must not live in the north where there is snow and salt. They really get stuck in there and become really difficult to remove even with heat, air hammers, and specialty tools.
You got that right. These folks must all live in Florida. Up in good ole corrosive Pennsylvania, it is a significant problem trying to break the rusted hub free. Yes, it is possible to got get a 50lb cement block and drop it a few times on the bearing. But I got to be careful not to damage other parts, or cause something to shatter and have pieces flying through the garage hitting other cars. I learned after the 1st bearing replacement to coat all areas with anti-seize. Then, the next time the bearing needs removed, it will not be seized up.
@hubbuster YEA, but this causes the hub assembly to make gouges in the aluminium hub pocket in knuckle, the assembly is designed to come out of the pocket not causing the hub to cock in the bore also ruins the seal!
Ryan I just remove those pesky exploder rears to the vice. Smack the crap out of it then press a new one in. Or smash one in. The bearings sold today have a plastic guide and wear quick!
After watching this video, I decided to make my own "Hub Buster" and trust me I have not found a single vehicle that it did not work on. lol Ford exploder is easy as all others. and just did 3500 dodge ram last week took about 5 hits with sledge and they were off.
I think I know why so many people dislike this tool. They dont live near you where so much salt is used on the roads. They have little trouble getting these apart even if they live in the snow belt. Many cities use a combination of salt and other chemicals for snow melting. I live near you and and they use about 100% salt and Ive had these hubs not come out at all with soaking and a sledge. I can spot a car from out of town in a second.
The concept is good.. but it would be better to TAP down with small hammer and then up, and repeat. Or you could destroy the seat where the new bearing will sit. Going to make one today ;)
x2xtreme360 the OE wheel bearings lasted 166k on my 02 Silverado. They are good trucks no matter what you ford idiots think. Go blow out some spark plugs or something.
Slide hammer won’t do shit. I have done many wheel bearings on these trucks (mainly because people buy shitty aftermarket ones and they run wheel spacers which just murders them) and there is no way a slide hammer would’ve worked on any of them. I live in minnesota as well and it is my job to work on rusty vehicles.
My son in law made one of these. I couldn't remove a rear hub off our 2010 Chrysler Town and Country. Five hits with a sledge hammer and it was out. This was after working on the thing for four hours the day before.
Looks like a good last ditch effort tool. If they won’t tap out or come out with a slide hammer, this would be better than pulling the strut to get it in a press but it does roll the bearing from the seat rather than pulling it straight out.
Oh you're right, every new invention that could ever be conceived of is already available at the fucking auto parts store... You're really not worth replying to. Don't buy the thing. Just leave the guy alone.
Try removing a hub from a 2010 outback. If I would have had this I would not have needed to give up. I tried the 3 lb sledge and slide hammer. The splined axle came out like a breeze. This idea gets my vote.
breaker unrefined i was looking for a way to say the same "2cents" but there is no way to say it without someone getting offended lol. . . everyone who replied here knows 2000lbs was off lol leave THIS guy alone ... its just a comment ha
I used a derelict brake rotor which I located in an O'Reillys dumpster and a sledgehammer when extractin a hub assembly on a Jeep Grand Cherokee - ended up using antisieze on the threads and hub bore
@@Kj16V What I do is take the hook off a piece of 3/8 chain about 6 feet long and fasten the end link nice and snug on one of the studs with a lug nut and washer. Then I whip the chain so it yanks on the stud. Hasn't failed me yet.
Ray Daniels chain yanking is stupidly strong for some reason. I used to tow cars and when I loaded them on the flatbed I would accidentally park them on top of the chains I needed sometimes and I would give them a few short yanks and I could always effortlessly snatch it out
You have got to love the cue cards he's reading,in the old days we would dump a pan of boiling hot water on the bearing and put the wheel back on and kick it gently on top,bottom and sides then wiggle it free,works like a charm' I've always wanted to take a sledge hammer to my car and WOW! now I can.(P.S.)you can use boiling (and must be boiling) water to loosen other stuck stuff to.
So yes this tool and technique is a bit "caveman", but honestly....If you are removing and replacing the hub/bearing, who gives shit if it damages the hub, the bearing or the lugs? I just want that damn thing off fast and easy. I just went through this on my 2006 Equinox in my driveway with basic hand and air tools and this bastard wouldn't budge. After an hour of spinning,banging and prying on the hub; constructing various pipe/extension/bolt-on contraptions, AND throwing my back out in the process, I finally popped the damn thing out. I cleaned up the inside of the spindle with a die grinder/wire wheel, coated the new hub with anti seize, and reassembled everything in a snap. I would have been more than happy to whack that sucker out with one hit, and so would anyone else in the same circumstance. Now if I had to re-use the original hub, I'm sure I would have to go about things a little differently....... Just Sayin'...............
solution ive used in the past: Get a long threaded rod, put two nuts on one end with some large washers inbetween. Then find a solid peice of metal sheet(thick, roughly 1/8th inch or more) drill two holes in it. One to put the threaded rod through it again one nut on each end to hold it in place, with some washer depending tje size of the nuts. Find a solid heavy piece to slide up and down the road but wont pass the washers on the end. Then take the other end of the sheet metal bolt it down to the old hub using a lug nut. Now youve got yourself a slide hammer to break the old hub free for about $15
In Russia we use similar technique for knee joint replacement on senior citizens.
Is good ya?
In soviet Russia, knee replaces you!
I'm the gayest gay ever
In Russia you have electric power and toilets?
Cristy Gratziani
Sadly no.
It is our hope that your president Trump will share such technologies with us in exchange for mass Trolling attacks on political enemies.
Until such time, we suffer the indignities of sloshing through our own feces in the dark.
Is so sad.
Prairie Climber dead meme
And for my next trick I'll show you how to install a sunroof with a 20 tonne excavator
I would love to see that!
😂😂😂
Down in the comments, David Sonnenborg mentioned using a pipe wrench to accomplish the same thing. I was trying to get a hub off a 2005 Chevy Colorado - to replace the rotor. After reading his suggestion I went out and put my biggest pipe wrench on the bad rotor and hit it with my 3 lb hammer. Didn't budge. Went and got the ten pound sledge and hit it once and it broke loose.
So, it pays to read the comments!! Saved me over $100 dollars using tools I already had. And kept me from storing another seldom used tool.
Thank you David.
10 years later.. this is being sold in Matco and Snap-on trucks. And is still one of the fastest ways to remove a hub assembly. Kudos.
IT WORKS!!!
The rear hub on my 2001 Bonneville SSEI was welded to the knuckle from rust and corrosion due to dissimilar metals.
I tried all my normal tricks and even tried a few new ones I saw online. Nothing was working. Then, I saw this video and realized that the torque forces this tool utilizes are all in the correction direction and axis.
I went outside, put a pipe wrench directly onto the top of the bearing hub and in two whacks with a mallet, that miserable hub broke free.
Great invention, the physics of the tool are impeccable. If I did this for a living, I would thank you with a purchase. Cheers!
Thanks for that idea. I will try it on my stuck front hub (Pontiac Torrent)
Great idea David. I am going to try it in the morning and let you know how i get on.
Pipe wrench on the top of the hub worked great ! That and a couple light whacks with a 5 lb sledge hammer loosened it right away and then pulled it out the rest of the way by hand. And everyone's probably got a pipe wrench.
+Dhillon Yep it worked for me too! Couple of whacks with a mini sledgehammer on the wrench and the hub came away :0)
David Sonn You risk breaking the assembly in half with those forces. It needs to come straight out. Not on an angle. Break it in half and good luck getting the old section out of the knuckle. You'll need a machine shop.
Thanks, just had my welder make one. Works great. Thanks for the tip.
one old rotor and some receiver stock.
I've worked as a mechanic for nearly a decade now and I've done many hub assembly replacements. I was introduced to the hub buster about two years ago and have loved it since the first time I used it. Never had and adverse effects to the spindles on any vehicle. The tool absolutely fantastic. I only wish I'd have came up with the idea myself!!
Reading the negative comments on here. Obviously some of you haven't run into a rusted hub. I had a dodge ram 2500 with hubs that were seized on. I have a nice slide hammer and it wouldn't budge it. I heated it, hit it, pb blaster and nothing. I would've gladly paid for this tool if it works as demonstrated
I went through this as well, I used bolts and nuts to press it out, against the hub and knuckle, used washers as a spacer and unscrewed the bolt to press it out, worked very well. I didn't want to pull the knuckle to press it
Same here brother
Seriously it's frustrating I have a 04 durango I've been trying to get the hubs off in total about 2.5 days nothing is working the only thing I don't have access to is a smoke wrench (oxy acc torch) today I thought I had it nailed as the 10 inch gear puller I ordered arrived the hub has been sitting 3 days sprayed daily with Pb blaster I was sure it was coming off 4 turns into the process I looked to see if there was any progress and discovered the shaft on the gear puller had bent the hub never moved...... So I feel your pain
Brandon Cart Thats how I do it. I have set of bolts that I use just to take them apart. Then clean the mating surfaces and use lots of anti seize when putting it back together.
My 94 2500 diesel was a nightmare to pull the hubs off of. During the axle rebuild I had to heat the damn things to red hot on the front and beat on them with a sledge to get them to give enough space to force a breaker bar into to finally pop them free. There’s one guy up there that’s saying that you’ll egg shape your parts that way- the only part that will egg shape will be the old hub. Not the joint on the suspension. Weaker component is always the bearings. And if you DO actually egg out your suspension, dude... you got way bigger problems then needing new bearings 😂😂😂
I like it. That's a simple and effective design.
Made my own version of this in 30 minutes at home today and broke the rear hubs off my expedition (I’m in Michigan) in only a few swings, before I saw this I was beating the hub for an hour. Thanks for the vid!
I took an old brake disc and bolted it in place over the hub but with the inside facing out. That gives you sort of a "flange" to pound on with a hammer. It took me 3 good whacks to take it off. Easy as that and didn't have to buy an expensive tool. The hub was fused solid due to winter driving in Canada.
After spending a whole bloody day and watching mass videos how to remove a stubborn hub being only one that I tried. I came across your comment. After visualising your idea!! I thought this would be the best one that I'd try on my 08 Equinox, worse ones for seized hubs. Three good wacks with a 30 lb. sledge gave me a lot of lead way to pry the sob out within 5 mins. You my man are a damn genius with a brilliant idea! I can't thank you enough after pounding and trying everything all day that pissed me off. Thinking I would have to bring it in somewhere. Thanks to you I didn't have to. Came right in the house to look this back up so I can leave you this comment.
From one Canuck to another your comment was very much appreciated.
CHEERS! and thank you again!!!
Common sense ain't all that common, Mark Twain.
@@keithlapere7650 that is an incredibly awesome story.
*_This tool is amazing. One of my favorites now. I have been fighting wheel bearings for 20 years because of rust and corrosion. I live in the rust belt and certain models are beyond extremely hard. This tool will has fixed all my bearing removal problems. It's simple, cheap and universal. Excellent tool!! I love it. I recommend it. Thank you._*
The way he walks i think he smashed his feet in the past with that sledge hammer
Hahahahahahahahaha 🤭
Ha ha have 2 make a funny...it works.......
Used a hub buster today. Made about 10 hits with 10lbs sledge hammer. Didn't think the hub was coming out after hit #10 . But it came out. Thanks hub buster!
2,000 lbs on the hub? that's at least 60% of the complete vehicle weight, not happening with 3 tires still on the ground.
Wonder why this video showed up in my suggestions... 10 years later! LOL
Same
Same
Man, I've heard that it was hard to remove wheel hubs on cars from up north but I had no idea that it was that bad. That's a handy tool to have.
B&V Automotive here in cold ass Decatur Illinois... We have been killing ourselfs on a rear hub and bearing assembly on this damn 08 Cadillac cts4... Tried everything... This looks like the best one yet so we are taking 20min to build something as close as possible to this HUB GRABBER! WISH US LUCK, Ill let you no in about 20min how it turns out for us
+Billy B well did it work you never got back to us thx
i guess it didnt work, and Billy is STILL somewhere out there pounding away
Billy B so why not get an old rotor blow a couple hokes in it run a lateral pull to a sokid point tow truck wall clevis maybe a lift put some tension on it attaching thfough blown holes with cjmalong crank it tight and beat it then crank znd whale igll creep out ps only whale on rotor as not to dzmage any important part
I feel bad because the idea is awesome and I want the guy to make money but the tradesman in me is walking out to the shop and welding one up as we speak.
Andrew Nardo 👍😁
That's what I do, look on ebay, see how it's made, then borrow my neighbors shop.
Yep my mind put receiver stock to an old rotor real fast.
It's like going back in time. Thanks UA-cam recommended!
Well the video is from 2009🤣🤣🤣
I’ve seen wheel bearings so stuck a 6’ wrecking bar wouldn’t break them free.. this looks like a gimmick to me that’s just going to bend and cause a lot of people to smack the fender, like it looks like you’ve already done..
Could just lengthen the box channel if needed..
Miraak someone ate a few too many Wheaties yesterday morning or what? Most people are just that bad with a sledge that they’d hit the fender. I stand by that this is a useless invention
FATWONG 36 the issue is in the fact that there’s so much force being put to it where it meets the hub that it’s just going to bend eventually, and most people will find a way to damage their car or hurt themselves with this no matter the length
So maby a circular plate with an offset channel?
@@Beandiptheredneck Too many Wheaties? I almost didn't roll my eyes. Good for you, you have sense of humor as dry and uninviting as the cereal. Most people aren't going to be trying to unseize and replace their own hubs. And if they are, they are going to be someone who has enough familiarity with tools that they should be able to control something like a sledgehammer. Admittedly they could be more familiar with smaller, more precise tools, but those still require decent hand-eye coordination and motor control, which translates easily enough over to something bigger. Hell, even a small five or ten-pound mallet sledge could do the trick with this. In case you don't know, that's a tiny little sledgehammer on a handle about the size of a camp axe shaft. Again, if you're someone who is attempting to do this yourself, you should be smart enough to be able to figure out how to use the apparently complex tool that is a sledgehammer. I'm fully aware that many people are bad with sledgehammers. I'm again also fully aware that those people aren't usually the type to do shit like this. Sometimes they are, but usually not. And if they ARE bad with a sledge, guess what? They don't have to use this. So, it's only useless for some people. Other people would love something like this.
Similar Example: Some people are bad at riding bicycles because they have shit control over their balance. They aren't required to buy one. Bikes are for people who can ride one and enjoy riding them. Sure, some people will get them anyway because 'Oh I can ride it eventually' then they end up with bruises and scrapes, but that's their fault for being stupid and not accepting theie limits. Doesn't make bicycles a 'useless invention', now does it? No. Same with this. People who can use it properly would love it. Several people in the comment section are already planning on making their own. It's not useless, it's just for certain people.
Congratulations, you've done nothing but state you have an opinion, and a poorly founded one at that.
Saw an idea below (deepcritik), that worked...put the wheel back on, kick the edges, and it gives you some leverage (like the hub buster does)
Just what I was thinking 👆👌
I bought the hub buster. I've done 2 bearing jobs. It absolutely works. They snap right off. One hit.
Cost me $133 .
Instructions unclear. Sledge hammer went through back window.
I'll just make one, thanks man.
Time to cut a piece of flat steel and square tubing and break out the welder!
No joke.
Plus Im pretty sure the last thing this car needed was hub bearings it look fucked all the way around.
@@RP-xk8ji LMAO!
use an old rotor. I keep busted parts for some reason and that worked out.
congrats, you invented the lever!
Nice jack stands. And I'm sure that's a perfectly ok jacking point.
I've taken them off with the jack just like you started with but yes those hub busters works good.
I always used air hammer with chisel tip and never had a problem.
Now a portable wheel bearing press is a big big time saver.
Shut it virgin mechanic no one cares about under 6ft losers
You've invented something that we don't need. It's called a slide hammer, and it works better.
+Ryan Richards
I used my 5lb slide hammer for a good 3-4 minutes and nothing happened. With just two hits using this theory, it broke clean away. This is a legitimate tactic to keep in your bag of tricks. Cheers. -Oh, I used a pipe wrench instead of waiting for the tool to come in the mail.
+David Sonn it's called penetrating fluid. use it
+Mechanicable When one gets seized up real bad, penetrating fluid won't help. The steel of the hub and the aluminum of the knuckle are actually fused together with a sort of weld.
@@mechanicable5741 you've never worked on a car where 2 days of soaking in penetrating fluid doesn't even penetrate more than a few mm
I hope you make millions
This sounds like a bad Shark Tank pitch. Is that poor man being held against his will? lol
Terrific idea. Worth its weight in gold.
Now you need a new axle too..... great job 👍
Hello, I purchased this tool: I have a STUBBORN wheel bearing / hub assy! The metal backing plate sandwiches the hub and carrier Making a welded with rust cover a large surface area. I have HIT it HARD! then I found the biggest hammer I could (Not as big as yours) and HIT it HARDER! still not budging. I have used a jack on the end of it from the bottom along with hit the top. It's a good tool (In theory) I think I need a hammer like yours. No excuse. I have HIT it about 100 times over about 2 hours. With all I have. Great video. I wouldn't say yours is that bad actually in comoarison thine one I have a headache over. :(
made a similar tool and it worked great!!
Wow 😮 i ordered mine, cant wait
Hope you guys got a patent started on that tool, I see many other tool companies selling one similar to your tool, Matco is one of them.
As the owner of a 2001 Silverado that lives on a dirt road in Michigan with all the dirt, water, salt, snow, and grime, I can attest to the problems of changing wheel hubs like this. If you're one of those that doesn't think this video is real, you've never had to change a stuck hub like this one shown here. I know what my summer build project is going to be :D
Doesn't the Silverado have a complete hub unit?
Just don't do the bolts and the whole unit together comes out, bearing hub and all.
My Chevy avalanche comes with the hub assembly and bearing as one complete unit.
Undo the bolts, pull it off of, put the new one on, re-bolt, done.
I figured the Silverado would be the same way.
@@nickdial8528 Silverado's are notorious for having their hubs practically welded in because of all the crap that gets in there.
However, at the time I wrote that comment, I had not yet figured out that an impact hammer works just fine for it.
You back out the bolts, then turn the threads back in just a couple turns, then you use the impact hammer on the heads of the bolts to push the hub out. It's extremely slow and you have to go around to each bolt so it doesn't cock to one side too much.
Then you can remove the bolts once they bottom out and knock it all off with a sledge hammer.
Looks like a great tool. And when I come to remove one of these hub's i'll be sure to copy the design and make my own out of about $10 of scrap metal from around the shop. Thanks for the video!
I’m a mechanic here in Atlanta .I never have a problem removing a bearing ..I hit it with a small sledgehammer a couple times but it always comes right out..Does look like a pretty cool tool although 🤔
Come work on a vehicle in the salt belt. It is unbelievable how much force it takes to remove a wheel hub from a knuckle
Austin L Yeah I know I used to work in New York thankfully I don’t have no problems anymore 👍
air hammer behind hub, in several places. or slide hammer works good too. Your product looks ok also.
Good luck
Try it on a Ford Explorer. I’ve had to up a 20 ton press to separate frozen bolted in bearings from the steering knuckle. The rear bearings are next to impossible to get apart too.
This tool is useless if youve hammered on the hub so much that the bearing assembly crumbles before your eyes and all you have left is the housing still fused to the knuckle. now what?
That happened to me. That's when you have to remove the axle from the hub and beat the fuck out of the bearing from underneath the car and from behind. All while using a half can of pb blaster. 3 hours later and it was off. :/
I used a stubby hammer, half inch chisel and tapped it out from behind. It came out quite quickly considering I spent hours destroying the hub prior to that with a slide hammer. The trick was to tap it a few times in one spot then do the same on the opposite side.
now put it back together lol
So you made a piece of metal that attaches to the lug for leverage... fascinating.
Yup David G...just like the guy who invented the wrench... "a piece of metal that attaches to the lug for leverage". The same can be said of almost any tool. As such, what he invented was a tool... and a darn useful one at that!
Yeah it is fascinating seeing as how no one else came up with this idea and it seemingly works because of the way it concentrates the forces of hitting it with the sledgehammer. Sounds like you are just a grumpy piece if shit that is mad because you didn't think of this idea. Moron
this tool is awesome i want to buy one, and u can tell who works on car buy all the hating goin on good tool
I used alot of liqued wrench and let it sit for an hour. I supported the knuckle in a manner that would allow the hub to fall to the ground if i hit it from the back with a block of wood and a hammer. It popped right out. It was a 1990 Accord with 170K, California car.
I love this guy. Total ASMR
dude, the axel is still in the wheel hub. How is jacking it up going to free it if the axel is still inside?
The axle doesn't carry any weight, only the hub does. The axle is just floating in there.
Seems like if it did pop out while it was jacked up it would soon put all the force into the axle and possibly damage it.
So THAT's who bent the wheel lugs on my Grand Am! You friggin jacked up my car on two wheel lugs, flattened out the threads on them.
the new hub assembley . has new lugs on it.
You really don't want to see what a sledge does to threads lol
Ian Gates 👍😁
@@iangates8815 yeah but what if you're only changing the axle and reusing The Hub
This is fine if your planning on replacing the bearing anyway. If your going in to replace something else and plan to re-use the bearing, plan for if to fail shortly after.
You wouldn't be removing it if you were going to reuse it unless you pull one from the junk yard, in that case you should remove the strut bolts and ball joint
hey great idea man,i made something similar a chisel divice that was jack mounted did the job but with hassle.
Need to ask. Is this ok? Won't damage the assembly at all? Juts asking.
*ME THOR. ME FIX CAR.*
If you need to do the front wheel bearing and there rusted in there I perfect this trick your vehicle is equipped with a hydraulic press (aka power steering) thread a bolt in and out the socket on and an extension somewhere solid and turn the wheel works like a charm
Fckn genius.
That's exactly what I did with my 03 Dodge Ram 2500. The ps almost went out in the process but the hub came out
It does work great on most trucks but on cars and other vehicles there is no good place to prop from.. so this is even better, I will be welding one up..
wouldn't putting a tire and wheel back then kick one side of tire do the same thing? just thinking...
I think you would have to kick it from the back of the tire to achieve the same direction of force. But good thinking!
deepcritik THANKS for the idea!!! I was at a loss, but saw your tip, and it worked!
Wrong. Kick the bottom of the tire, Sherlock; and it does the same thing.
It may help, but the hub buster's utility is in the significant amount of leverage that it provides. The tire won't provide the same amount of leverage but likely better than nothing
I think I'll just stick with the good 'ol tried and tested slide hammer.
ChayD you must not live in the notheast
rock 77 Correct, I live in the southeast. Of England :) they do tend to go overboard with the road salt here too.
You must have never done a 10 year old car from the salt country. I have just finished doing my 2005 Equinox this week I spent a half hour with the air chisel, Tried the slide hammer until all the nerves in my hand were damaged before. Destroyed 3 cold chisels this time and ruined the shield. Heated the hub flange till red hot let it cool and no dice. Made this tool and about three wacks from the top and same from the bottom and out it came. I had soaked it with PB Blaster about 4 times and even had it soaking over night, No go. One thing I did do was set an axle stand under the ball joint before hitting it with a 4 lb. sledge. This helps the other parts from getting damaged by the shock. When even after 2 days of pouring on both PB Blaster and liquid wrench there was no sign of anything having gotten down in between there.
I did have to heat the al. knuckle with the torch before I got the first sign of movement
+Nick Jonkman u need a bigger hammer mate haha
Nick Jonkman i literally just did this job today on my equinox and i found it to be wayyyyyy easier to just take the knuckle off the vehicle and mount in a vice, heat up knuckle ( very carefully ) and hit the bearing with a 5 pound sledge. it took 4 good hits and it was out. *backstory* the equinox was making noise from pass.bearing last year so i bought 2 bearings to do both sides....well after doing the pass side (the bad one) witch took me 8hrs of trying everything from beating, slide hammer, heating, air chisel ext. when i finally got finished i realized i knocked the spring off strut perch from beating on it so hard. long story short i said screw the driver side as it wasn't noisy and i didn't have energy to do it. so when the drivers side needed doing this weekend i said screw it im taking the knuckle out so i had more room to work on it.......BEST DECISION I COULD HAVE MADE, took a fraction of the time to do
Still does not get the hub free from the axle shaft.
Excellent way to damage the mateing surfaces. Prying anything out of a hole like this will create an "egg" shape on the parts.
Sean Grahame Ya no biggie until u go to put it back together. Just use a slide hammer and pull it straight out.
Some of you must not live in the north where there is snow and salt. They really get stuck in there and become really difficult to remove even with heat, air hammers, and specialty tools.
You got that right. These folks must all live in Florida. Up in good ole corrosive Pennsylvania, it is a significant problem trying to break the rusted hub free. Yes, it is possible to got get a 50lb cement block and drop it a few times on the bearing. But I got to be careful not to damage other parts, or cause something to shatter and have pieces flying through the garage hitting other cars. I learned after the 1st bearing replacement to coat all areas with anti-seize. Then, the next time the bearing needs removed, it will not be seized up.
Looks crazy....😊😊😂..if it works though...🎉🎉🎉
@hubbuster YEA, but this causes the hub assembly to make gouges in the aluminium hub pocket in knuckle, the assembly is designed to come out of the pocket not causing the hub to cock in the bore also ruins the seal!
Lol. I'd love to see him try that on a rear ford explorer hub
Ryan I just remove those pesky exploder rears to the vice. Smack the crap out of it then press a new one in. Or smash one in. The bearings sold today have a plastic guide and wear quick!
rywolf01 takes a 20 ton press to remove or put on exploder bearings.
Moog makes replacement knuckles now, no need to do the bearings anymore
a still need a hub and bearing in that knuckle. never seen an all in one package offered from anyone.
After watching this video, I decided to make my own "Hub Buster" and trust me I have not found a single vehicle that it did not work on. lol Ford exploder is easy as all others. and just did 3500 dodge ram last week took about 5 hits with sledge and they were off.
Looks like ya got into yer fender there a few times Bubba! Maybe a smaller hammer would suffice? Would love to have seen those bloopers!
I think I know why so many people dislike this tool. They dont live near you where so much salt is used on the roads. They have little trouble getting these apart even if they live in the snow belt. Many cities use a combination of salt and other chemicals for snow melting. I live near you and and they use about 100% salt and Ive had these hubs not come out at all with soaking and a sledge. I can spot a car from out of town in a second.
I'd like to order one , do you still sell them?
or it splits in 2 and you still have the flange stuck to the hub and have to air hammer on the bolts from the back anyways
The concept is good.. but it would be better to TAP down with small hammer and then up, and repeat. Or you could destroy the seat where the new bearing will sit. Going to make one today ;)
😲Thank you for the helpful! E
.🤓
Have yall seriously never heard of a slide hammer? It worked just fine for my on my parents minnesota driven 2002 silverado
A slide hammer won't get most bearings out of a knuckle. You just got lucky.
@@x2xtreme360 sorry youre right we just got luckey 7 times
@@chriswright6068 7 wheel bearing replacements I'd say get rid of that POS Chevy.
x2xtreme360 the OE wheel bearings lasted 166k on my 02 Silverado. They are good trucks no matter what you ford idiots think. Go blow out some spark plugs or something.
Slide hammer won’t do shit. I have done many wheel bearings on these trucks (mainly because people buy shitty aftermarket ones and they run wheel spacers which just murders them) and there is no way a slide hammer would’ve worked on any of them. I live in minnesota as well and it is my job to work on rusty vehicles.
My son in law made one of these. I couldn't remove a rear hub off our 2010 Chrysler Town and Country. Five hits with a sledge hammer and it was out. This was after working on the thing for four hours the day before.
Looks like a good last ditch effort tool. If they won’t tap out or come out with a slide hammer, this would be better than pulling the strut to get it in a press but it does roll the bearing from the seat rather than pulling it straight out.
How many units sold do they come in black?
I usually just thread a bolt a little bit into the back and wack it with a hammer. That gets them out pretty good.
A slide hammer works too and a regular hammer works as well
1:57, "there must be over 2000 lbs of force on that jack" even though that particular corner only weighs about 1100 lbs.
BEAKER UNREFINED Just stfu
Oh you're right, every new invention that could ever be conceived of is already available at the fucking auto parts store...
You're really not worth replying to. Don't buy the thing. Just leave the guy alone.
Try removing a hub from a 2010 outback. If I would have had this I would not have needed to give up. I tried the 3 lb sledge and slide hammer. The splined axle came out like a breeze. This idea gets my vote.
breaker unrefined
i was looking for a way to say the same "2cents" but there is no way to say it without someone getting offended lol. . . everyone who replied here knows 2000lbs was off lol leave THIS guy alone ... its just a comment ha
@@mikemaxwell1801 goof lol
I used a derelict brake rotor which I located in an O'Reillys dumpster and a sledgehammer when extractin a hub assembly on a Jeep Grand Cherokee - ended up using antisieze on the threads and hub bore
Dammit Jeff stay focused.
Can it be used in front hub also?
Good idea 👍🏻
problem with this is you can break or tear up the aluminum yolk holding the hub if you use too much force
The few times I've had to deal with a stuck hub or axle I whipped them out with a piece of chain.
How did that work? Genuine question, not being sarcastic.
@@Kj16V What I do is take the hook off a piece of 3/8 chain about 6 feet long and fasten the end link nice and snug on one of the studs with a lug nut and washer. Then I whip the chain so it yanks on the stud. Hasn't failed me yet.
Ray Daniels chain yanking is stupidly strong for some reason. I used to tow cars and when I loaded them on the flatbed I would accidentally park them on top of the chains I needed sometimes and I would give them a few short yanks and I could always effortlessly snatch it out
@@sambo2891 very little force is wasted as chains have way less "give" so to speak than a rope or strap. Very little stretching.
You have got to love the cue cards he's reading,in the old days we would dump a pan of boiling hot water on the bearing and put the wheel back on and kick it gently on top,bottom and sides then wiggle it free,works like a charm' I've always wanted to take a sledge hammer to my car and WOW! now I can.(P.S.)you can use boiling (and must be boiling) water to loosen other stuck stuff to.
The way he moves it will take him an hour to change a flat.
The guy is obviously getting on in years. At lesst he still has the spunk to fix his own car.
Good video. But I've never been let down by my mini sledge and a little bit of elbow grease.
And its cheap
Try a yukon xl 1500. Butterfly nut and bolt trick works without any damage. Use air tools not your back....
@hubbuster what do you suppose would happen to the bearing if it wasnt junk just needed to be taken off?
Very few reasons you would ever remove a hub bearing if it were any good, but in that case, you won't be using this tool.
Bullshit, that was a easy job. Let's see a 10 year old RAM 3500 4x4 front bearing and this tool,,,,, the bearing will win!!
+Keeper Of The Reaper with a framing hammer ? you're a beast dude
I am interested in buying the hub buster where can you find one please
So yes this tool and technique is a bit "caveman", but honestly....If you are removing and replacing the hub/bearing, who gives shit if it damages the hub, the bearing or the lugs? I just want that damn thing off fast and easy. I just went through this on my 2006 Equinox in my driveway with basic hand and air tools and this bastard wouldn't budge. After an hour of spinning,banging and prying on the hub; constructing various pipe/extension/bolt-on contraptions, AND throwing my back out in the process, I finally popped the damn thing out. I cleaned up the inside of the spindle with a die grinder/wire wheel, coated the new hub with anti seize, and reassembled everything in a snap. I would have been more than happy to whack that sucker out with one hit, and so would anyone else in the same circumstance. Now if I had to re-use the original hub, I'm sure I would have to go about things a little differently.......
Just Sayin'...............
Equinox hubs are some of the worst to remove with all that galvanic-corrosion going on. Seems like that tool would help save time and energy!
I have been working on my Torrent's hub (same as Equinox) since last night. No luck. You;re right these are really corroded
Pullers don't work?
I cringed so bad at the sign of you using blocks on the wheel studs
They are being replaced....so why?
ChiTownRuler023 it’s just the fact that it’s hella cringe lmao even if they are being replaced. I’d never do it like that
It's the same as using the wheel studs to hold on the hub buster.
Why the #### don't you go back in time and give me this 4 hours ago. I'm ordering one asap. Thanks.
Looks like that tool has a good chance of breaking steering and front end parts.
solution ive used in the past: Get a long threaded rod, put two nuts on one end with some large washers inbetween. Then find a solid peice of metal sheet(thick, roughly 1/8th inch or more) drill two holes in it. One to put the threaded rod through it again one nut on each end to hold it in place, with some washer depending tje size of the nuts. Find a solid heavy piece to slide up and down the road but wont pass the washers on the end. Then take the other end of the sheet metal bolt it down to the old hub using a lug nut. Now youve got yourself a slide hammer to break the old hub free for about $15
yeah but the ABS sensor is busted.
will the hub buster work on all wheel stud aplications or do you halft to order it to a specific model. thats the only downside i see to you tool .
how does this adjust for different stud bolt offsets?
Thank you, thank you, thank you. This worked for me.