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Always a pleasure!

Thanks for sharing that idea! We certainly will try it on the next build!

I assume you have checked the oil level?

Glad you found the video useful!

Glad it helped you out!

And it works!

Glad our video was useful for you!

There is 1" clearance from the fan clutch to the radiator. Two row radiator. The Jeep is a 2WD so no off-road yet. Keep watching the Chanel, at some point I will rebuild an AW4, Transfer case and diffs. Once that's done I will convert it to 4WD

@@theshop392 Thank you for answering my questions

Good luck, be patient getting everything aligned, I only showed one or two adjustments, reality is quite a few more

Thank you - hope it helps with your project!

Bly dit hulp!

This steering column was used in a race car without an ignition switch. Initially we kept the key in the ignition to disable the steering lock - there was some risk in doing this, we once tried to move the car and forgot to unlock the steering. Hence our decision to disable the steering lock.

Do you know if the 05 has the opda (large diameter oil pump drive). If it does I would recommend replacing the cam position sensor before you replace the whole opda. My 06 wrangler threw a similar code and I had to replace the sensor, no need to pull out the opda. I couldn't get an original sensor and the aftermarket one did not work correctly untill I put a washer under the sensor

@@theshop392 Yes it does have the larger (new style) OPDA. I used to own a 2006 unlimited that I had bought a new and drove it for 11 years. I only had to replace it on that once. This new Jeep appears to have a newer OPDA. So I'm going to need to get it to top dead center to verify that whoever installed Did it, put it back correctly.

If the Jeep was running before it threw the code I doubt that the timing jumped, unless the opda is damaged

@@theshop392 Yes it was running. It still is. I just ran it yesterday at highway speed for about 20 minutes. Everything seems completely normal. Just has the CEL light and that code. Since I just purchased it I don't really have any history so I'm starting from scratch on this one. It also has 198k miles.

@@theshop392 I used to rock crawl my '06 LJ. I'm planning to do a budget crawler build on this one because miss the rocks. Haha

Yes we did swap in the 80 series springs. Our vehicle is very heavy with the RTT, drawers, Fridge, Water and a family of 5. With that weight, even unladen it works perfectly with the AHC and it is still functional. If you are not as heavily laden, but the AHC is not able to lift, and assuming you don't have any AHC issues the king spring would be the next step up before you go to the 80 series

Glad the video was useful!

If you are interested I will have to work out pricing and make one for you

I would also be interested. Please make. I will pay what you ask

Glad you enjoyed the video. I was not planning to offer a kit, but if there is enough interest I could put a kit together for the special / fabricated parts.

May you source us with some links for your switches

Unfortunately we have sold the mower, but if we ever do work on one again we will be sure to do that upgrade.

I am not sure if units were built without a fan. All units that I have seen have a fan on so I would recommend you check a parts book to make sure.

You will need to check your serial number to make sure you have the right kit. Here is the link I used: tufftorq.ordertree.com/model?modelId=753&brandCode=TTQ. It shows the kit as #200 with PN TUF1A646098240. Remember you will still need oil

Well done spotting that! Yes I flipped it around when saw it was the wrong way around

I found the videos very useful to refer back to when I was assembling the unit. If you can't record the disassembly take lots of photos, especially when you remove things to confirm orientation and part order.

Metric is simple....

It's actually 5.3453/67 very precise. Lol

The link is the solid yellow plastic piece from the ignition barrel to where the screw is inserted. If you look at 0:13 in the video you will see the plastic piece at the tip of my finger, it is the same piece that the screw holds in place.

So glad it helped!

It has been maintaining its temperature perfectly in the 110f heatwave we have been in for the last week or so

@@theshop392 so runs cooler? Is it loud as others claim?

@@ari1234. It doesn't run any cooler (195-210), but it is able to maintain without the electric fan kicking in

@@theshop392 any power loss on the jeep?.Cool thanks

@@ari1234. None noticeable

No difference with internal temperature

Thank you

Thank you, I trust that it helps with your project

Glad it was helpful!

This was a 2000 XJ engine that we had retrofitted into a CJ

Have you tried to purchase parts directly from Tough Torque. I was able to get all the parts I needed as well as the magnet upgrade from them. Failing that why don't you try finding a second hand box that is in good shape?

Unfortunately we cannot translate at this time yet. If you need specific help let me know and we can walk you through the video

The rear seat went right back into position - check that the drawers are positioned as far rearward as the adjustment allows

Thank you I’ll check it.

Glad that it seems to be working now!

Always a pleasure

We considered doing that, however we felt it best to follow the manufacturers recommendation on return. We also wanted the return to supply both sides, the idea that the return helps to provide surface tension enabling the pickup to operate - if you have plumped the return to the open ports please let us know if it works as it would be an elegant solution

Thank you, hope it helps with your project!

Take a look at 23:40 in this video, there is a wedge block that has a thick and thin side, I suspect you have it the wrong way

So glad it helped, good luck with your project

Good catch, I missed it when I was doing the video unfortunately I didn't record when I put it back in

Always our pleasure!

I would check the oil level, I have had the same symptoms on another lawnmower and it had a oil leak

Hope it helped with your project!

I would open the transmission casing to see what's going on inside. If there is lots of metal shavings you have mechanical damage, if there is no oil then you have a leak that you didn't notice. These transmissions are prone to leaking at the wheel seals, so the leak looks like it's a bad wheel seal

One has to be slow and methodical about the teardown, lots of photos or videos to record what it looked like prior to tearing down.

You can do it without the balancer, use your finger over the spark plug hole to feel for air (compression stroke). Then use a wooden dowel through the plug hole to feel for the piston reaching the highest point and then moving down, rotate backwards and feel for top of stroke.

does the piston come up twice then its the compression stroke? I thought the piston comes up once for first valve to open then down and up again for second valve to open then its the compression stroke. Or is is ok to align the distributor up as long as the piston is at the top at any time?

Hope you enjoy. It's still working well

We worked on it in the evenings and weekends. If your organized it should take you a day, less if you have done it before