Lee Valley bought John Beall's company. Lee Valley bought John Beall's company. Lee Valley now has these in stock here www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/power-tool-accessories/57074-lathe-spindle-taps?item=44J0772
It's me again! Watched this more out of curiosity but found your explanation as to "why" one should use the glue block made sense. The accelerator to the GB and the CA to the piece was explained, again, "why." Thanks. One good turn deserves another!
Thank you this was very helpful to understand the steps needed to use the beall spindle tap. I was wondering when you were going to use the spindle lock to help with the tapping process .. then you thought of it... There seems to be alot of good uses for this tap. I saw a video where it was used to make a block that was then glued to a disc for a disc sander. for the lathe..Great video by the way.
Patrick's work shop Patrick, Beall actually makes a 1 x 8tpi for that exact purpose, I bought one a little over a year ago... It comes with a 1-3/8" forstner bit and tap...
Good idea. I have one for my mini and will order the larger tap for my new Laguna 1524 lathe. Chucks are good but these threaded glue blocks are more convenient and just as accurate and can be easily customized for your project. They’re cheap too and use small pieces of scrap that are too small for many projects.
Just found this Mike thru your latest Video on chucks - very helpful thanks - bought a large nut a few weeks ago to set into a block and at $18 should have put that into a tap and made dozens.
Mike - great video illustrating something that a lot of turners either haven't heard about or considered too exotic to try. A few additional thoughts: 1. You illustrated, but didn't actually address the issue of grain. Wooden faceplates work better when you drill and tap into FACE grain. End grain tends to crumble. 2. You also illustrated but didn't actually address the issue of drilling all the way through the blank. Beall taps are tapered taps that won't thread all the way to the bottom of a hole with a closed bottom. You can buy 'bottoming' taps that will thread to the bottom, but they are very expensive and you still need the tapered tap to start the thread. So drilling the hole all the way through the blank allows you to thread the entire depth of the hole without needed a second 'bottoming' tap. 3. You mentioned the value of putting some thin CA on the threads, allowing it to cure, and then running the tap back through to clear the threads. I find that it also helps to follow that up with a little wax on the threads. 4. Beall is a great source of taps, but mini/midi lathe owners can purchase 1"x8tpi taps at Ace Hardware.
I like your wood 'wrench', I think maybe I will make one of those also. I chuckled when your sound track is misaligned with the video...I remember how many times that happens to me, and I work tediously to make it right. Funny how it really bugs me when its mine, but when it's yours, it is just fine with me. ...Maybe I will have the 'guts' to leave mine imperfect now too.lThanks!
***** Thanks for the positive comment. When you have spent hours editing and the files get out synch in the process and you have not dealt with that problem before, I think you reach a point where you throw in the towel and say it is good enough. With additional editing experience I can better fix problems like that when they occur. I note that for a very small number of folks it bothered them enough to "dislike" the video because it had an obvious flaw. I strive for quality but recognize some folks are never satisfied with what others provide for them - free of charge. I can accept that.
You are SO right! I have had the same problem, finally decided I would fix it one way or the other...I just erased the sound, and put in some text, tee hee... figured I would figure out my solutions somehow later. I kind of did, but kind of didn't. ...I try to be careful to make sure I take time to cut them both at the same time, and listen while I watch, very often. I have to backtrack a lot, but have been a little more successful at it the last couple of times. Honestly, I found it similarly humorous, that someone else suffers the same problems I do. :) I don't feel so alone. I still like the video! :D
Very interesting videoclip - Thank you!! I'm very new in woodturning, a real rookie with low-tech tools and old noob-machine from China ;) After I saw this video, I wonder if Pine is safe to use as threaded wood face plate? ..perhaps Birch is better?? And i guess that the wood must be dry?! I've seen a few videos about making faceplates with screw-nuts in the center and i was planning on drilling a hole and use epoxy to get a "metal-core". But your method seems easier and more fun :) thanks again // Hardy
Yellow pine, maybe. White pine no. Most any hardwood will work fine. You want the threads to hold up. Wood must be dry or you will get movement that would interfere with the threads and the flatness of the faces. I started out with Harbor Freight tools and still use most of them. Cheap steel for regrinding into special purpose tools when you start replacing with better.
great video mike,,i upgraded lathes to a jet 1642 and I had the 1x8 tap that fit the rikon,,but I use an adapter for the jet,,i also made me a handle like yours,,i noticed you turned the sides down with a bowl gouge rather than a roughting gouge,,lol,,I had to learn the hard way when to use the roughting gouge,,,,i watched the beal video and I think yours is the best,,,ohhh,,merry Christmas!!!!!!
Hi You might run across a spring loaded center. These are designed for taping just as your 60 deg center. Mine has about a 1/2" travel. These spring loaded centers don't need as much tail stock adjustment when taping. I have you on my subscribed lisd.
+Dennis Williams I have never seen what you are describing. I could not find anything on Amazon. The closest thing is a steb live center but it is not a cone and would not be suitable for supporting a beall tap. Can you provide a link to what you have in mind?
Yes but better might be 8/4 from a lumber yard. You can also cut into spindle turning blanks to practice beads and coves, turn birdhouse ornaments or gonks.
@@MikePeaceWoodturning You may think this is a dumb question but I usually don't go to the lumber store. What width and length would you suggest for the projects you mentioned above along with the glue blocks?
8/4 is two inches but when finished at the sawmill or lumber yard it is about 1.75" which is thick enough. Glue blocks might be 3" in diameter. Lumber widths are what they have on hand and you can usually get a piece a minimum of 6 ft long.@@fergusrb
Excellent video Mike. After 30+ years I’m finally getting back into wood turning and boy have things changed. I have been using 1” nuts using epoxy to put them in a block but this looks like the clear ticket. One question I have per this 1” x 8 TPI Beall tap; I’d like to also use it to make lathe projects that I can screw together so I need a 1” 8 TPI die but they seem really rare. I did look for both on your Amazon page but couldn't even find the tap. Any suggestions?
I think they are rare. If you are using for joinery, you might do better with a 10tpi threading jig to do the male and female thread. It is what I do on my larger acorn boxes.
@@MikePeaceWoodturning Thanks! I was hoping to kill two birds with an 8 TPI. Lots of 6 TIP tap and dies. I do know a small shop that does do and carry a lot of off the wall stuff. I'll try them first and if they have something I'll see. Either way I'll let you know and thanks for a great site and information!!!
Mike, I did get the Beall 1” x 8 TPI for making blocks and I got a 1” X 8 TPI die for about $35 at that shop I told you about. This way I can use it as a set. Tapping the block was a breeze, threading the test shaft little tougher. I ASuMEed it would take a 1” shaft to thread. Nope needs to be a 1/16th, maybe an 1/8th bigger. It fits but sloppy. Like I said, TEST piece. It will take me some experimenting how to put to use but I’ll keep you apprised and maybe I'll have to get a 10 TPI. Time will tell. Again thanks for some good vids.
@@mitsukowalker5831 Yes. As I said I have not found it necessary to harden the threads. I have never stripped a wood thread on a glue block. I don't like using CA if I don't feel it is necessary,.
After rewatching I see what you mean. No reason at all. I do have a way of securing the spindle lock. No idea why I did not as I could have then used both hands to turn the tap and quill. I haven't had a need to make any since I did the video as I have a good supply on hand but will think about that next time I do. Thanks for catching that.
That's a useful video, thanks. Although I realize that there is no danger of a kickback when cutting off stock on a bandsaw while using the fence as a stop and the miter gauge to push, it is very dangerous to do that on a table saw. Since I tend to be a creature of habit, I never do that even on the bandsaw because someday I might forget...
@Mike Peace, I’m sorry to impose if you’ve already answered this somewhere else, but does the tapped bore have to go all the way through the piece? I am just thinking about the loss of glue surface. My immediate plan is to make a 12” sanding wheel to prep my segmented layers for gluing.
Know you could of course make your glue block thicker. It makes more sense to go all of the way thru though. The loss of glue surface is not significant. If it is a concern, simply make a glue block with a larger glue surface.
Maybe for very light duty but since you will reuse, I would prefer something a bit stronger. I use poplar a lot since it is inexpensive and available in 8 quarter stock at the lumber yard. You could always glue up something thinner if you have 3/4" boards of cherry, maple or whatever.
Hey Mike, hope I didn't add a comment in your stead on the last post--at any rate, I was wanting to know how you go about putting CA on the threads to 'harden' them up a bit?Thanks--Don
+Don Davis I just dribble a wee bit of thin CA into the threads. After it dries, I simply run the tap thru the threads one more time and then rub a bit of candle paraffin into the threads.
Hi Sorry I should have posted links. littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3104&category= littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1963&category Tw versions. I have the MT#2 shank The second is a straight shank. I have seen these by other makers
Thanks for the video Mike; I have a spring loaded "tap guide" from Little Machine Shop. www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3104&category= it is a spring loaded guide. This is a "short" length so it may NOT self eject from a slef ejecting tail stock.
Lee Valley bought John Beall's company. Lee Valley bought John Beall's company. Lee Valley now has these in stock here www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/power-tool-accessories/57074-lathe-spindle-taps?item=44J0772
It's me again! Watched this more out of curiosity but found your explanation as to "why" one should use the glue block made sense. The accelerator to the GB and the CA to the piece was explained, again, "why." Thanks. One good turn deserves another!
Thank you for providing a very clear and concise tutorial on making glue blocks... perfect for someone who has not seen it done before!
Thanks for the feedback!
OK Mike, that's for me. I'll do it this week, thanks, Stewart, south west Australia.
They are so handy. And when you think the tap is probably the cost of one faceplate and then you have all of the glue blocks you need.
Thank you this was very helpful to understand the steps needed to use the beall spindle tap. I was wondering when you were going to use the spindle lock to help with the tapping process .. then you thought of it... There seems to be alot of good uses for this tap. I saw a video where it was used to make a block that was then glued to a disc for a disc sander. for the lathe..Great video by the way.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you, Mike. Very clear and detailed instructions.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video Mike!
Patrick's work shop
Patrick, Beall actually makes a 1 x 8tpi for that exact purpose, I bought one a little over a year ago... It comes with a 1-3/8" forstner bit and tap...
Got my wood tap, gonna give it a try!
Go for it.
Just made one. Thanks for the video!
Fantastic!
Thanks Mike. My glue blocks were just a fraction off centre. After watching this demonstration it shouldn't happen againJohn from Australia.
+John Hammond
Sometimes it is just the simplest thing. Thanks for the comment.
Good idea. I have one for my mini and will order the larger tap for my new Laguna 1524 lathe. Chucks are good but these threaded glue blocks are more convenient and just as accurate and can be easily customized for your project. They’re cheap too and use small pieces of scrap that are too small for many projects.
Right on
Nice video Mike,
cheers Colin.
This video is great! I'm just starting out and learned so much. Thanks Mike Peace for your efforts.
Glad you are finding them useful!
Very useful I've just bought 1 and just looking for tips and tricks. Thanks for sharing :-}
+Simon Hopkins Have fun with it. Happy you found my video useful.
Just found this Mike thru your latest Video on chucks - very helpful thanks - bought a large nut a few weeks ago to set into a block and at $18 should have put that into a tap and made dozens.
Not too late, Ray. If you belong to a club, wood nuts are great things to donate to the monthly raffle.
Thanks Mike, thanks Louie.
Thanks Mike; looks good. I already have the tap, will now put it to good use!
+Bill Wells
Excellent!
Mike - great video illustrating something that a lot of turners either haven't heard about or considered too exotic to try.
A few additional thoughts:
1. You illustrated, but didn't actually address the issue of grain. Wooden faceplates work better when you drill and tap into FACE grain. End grain tends to crumble.
2. You also illustrated but didn't actually address the issue of drilling all the way through the blank. Beall taps are tapered taps that won't thread all the way to the bottom of a hole with a closed bottom. You can buy 'bottoming' taps that will thread to the bottom, but they are very expensive and you still need the tapered tap to start the thread. So drilling the hole all the way through the blank allows you to thread the entire depth of the hole without needed a second 'bottoming' tap.
3. You mentioned the value of putting some thin CA on the threads, allowing it to cure, and then running the tap back through to clear the threads. I find that it also helps to follow that up with a little wax on the threads.
4. Beall is a great source of taps, but mini/midi lathe owners can purchase 1"x8tpi taps at Ace Hardware.
All excellent points that I should have spent a moment explaining in the video. Thanks for the excellent post.
+Mike Peace Hey Mike, how do you go about putting the CA onto the threads to 'harden' them up a bit?
I like your wood 'wrench', I think maybe I will make one of those also. I chuckled when your sound track is misaligned with the video...I remember how many times that happens to me, and I work tediously to make it right. Funny how it really bugs me when its mine, but when it's yours, it is just fine with me. ...Maybe I will have the 'guts' to leave mine imperfect now too.lThanks!
***** Thanks for the positive comment. When you have spent hours editing and the files get out synch in the process and you have not dealt with that problem before, I think you reach a point where you throw in the towel and say it is good enough. With additional editing experience I can better fix problems like that when they occur.
I note that for a very small number of folks it bothered them enough to "dislike" the video because it had an obvious flaw.
I strive for quality but recognize some folks are never satisfied with what others provide for them - free of charge. I can accept that.
You are SO right! I have had the same problem, finally decided I would fix it one way or the other...I just erased the sound, and put in some text, tee hee... figured I would figure out my solutions somehow later. I kind of did, but kind of didn't. ...I try to be careful to make sure I take time to cut them both at the same time, and listen while I watch, very often. I have to backtrack a lot, but have been a little more successful at it the last couple of times.
Honestly, I found it similarly humorous, that someone else suffers the same problems I do. :) I don't feel so alone. I still like the video! :D
Very interesting videoclip - Thank you!!
I'm very new in woodturning, a real rookie with low-tech tools and old noob-machine from China ;)
After I saw this video, I wonder if Pine is safe to use as threaded wood face plate?
..perhaps Birch is better??
And i guess that the wood must be dry?!
I've seen a few videos about making faceplates with screw-nuts in the center and i was planning on drilling a hole and use epoxy to get a "metal-core". But your method seems easier and more fun :)
thanks again // Hardy
Yellow pine, maybe. White pine no. Most any hardwood will work fine. You want the threads to hold up. Wood must be dry or you will get movement that would interfere with the threads and the flatness of the faces.
I started out with Harbor Freight tools and still use most of them. Cheap steel for regrinding into special purpose tools when you start replacing with better.
Thank you, mr Peace.
Hey Mike would adding a little bar soap to the tap threads ease the tap going through the wood. A lube so to say.
Sure. I keep a candle handle for such opportunities but soap would work as well.
great video mike,,i upgraded lathes to a jet 1642 and I had the 1x8 tap that fit the rikon,,but I use an adapter for the jet,,i also made me a handle like yours,,i noticed you turned the sides down with a bowl gouge rather than a roughting gouge,,lol,,I had to learn the hard way when to use the roughting gouge,,,,i watched the beal video and I think yours is the best,,,ohhh,,merry Christmas!!!!!!
I never use a roughing gouge on side grain, like a bowl (or side grain glue block). Stay safe my friend.
your the best mike!!!
Hi
You might run across a spring loaded center.
These are designed for taping just as your 60 deg center.
Mine has about a 1/2" travel.
These spring loaded centers don't need as much tail stock adjustment when taping.
I have you on my subscribed lisd.
+Dennis Williams
I have never seen what you are describing. I could not find anything on Amazon. The closest thing is a steb live center but it is not a cone and would not be suitable for supporting a beall tap. Can you provide a link to what you have in mind?
They are called tap guides and are available from LittleMachineShop.com..See littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3104&category=
Would getting 3/4 poplar from the big box store and glueing them up and follow your procedure work?
Yes but better might be 8/4 from a lumber yard. You can also cut into spindle turning blanks to practice beads and coves, turn birdhouse ornaments or gonks.
@@MikePeaceWoodturning thanks for the quick response. I need to get used to going to lumber yard for materials.
@@MikePeaceWoodturning You may think this is a dumb question but I usually don't go to the lumber store. What width and length would you suggest for the projects you mentioned above along with the glue blocks?
8/4 is two inches but when finished at the sawmill or lumber yard it is about 1.75" which is thick enough. Glue blocks might be 3" in diameter. Lumber widths are what they have on hand and you can usually get a piece a minimum of 6 ft long.@@fergusrb
@@MikePeaceWoodturning Thanks. See you even answer my dumb ass questions. Thanks again
Excellent video Mike. After 30+ years I’m finally getting back into wood turning and boy have things changed. I have been using 1” nuts using epoxy to put them in a block but this looks like the clear ticket. One question I have per this 1” x 8 TPI Beall tap; I’d like to also use it to make lathe projects that I can screw together so I need a 1” 8 TPI die but they seem really rare. I did look for both on your Amazon page but couldn't even find the tap. Any suggestions?
I think they are rare. If you are using for joinery, you might do better with a 10tpi threading jig to do the male and female thread. It is what I do on my larger acorn boxes.
@@MikePeaceWoodturning Thanks! I was hoping to kill two birds with an 8 TPI. Lots of 6 TIP tap and dies. I do know a small shop that does do and carry a lot of off the wall stuff. I'll try them first and if they have something I'll see. Either way I'll let you know and thanks for a great site and information!!!
Mike, I did get the Beall 1” x 8 TPI for making blocks and I got a 1” X 8 TPI die for about $35 at that shop I told you about. This way I can use it as a set. Tapping the block was a breeze, threading the test shaft little tougher. I ASuMEed it would take a 1” shaft to thread. Nope needs to be a 1/16th, maybe an 1/8th bigger. It fits but sloppy. Like I said, TEST piece. It will take me some experimenting how to put to use but I’ll keep you apprised and maybe I'll have to get a 10 TPI. Time will tell. Again thanks for some good vids.
How did you put the CA glue in treads and remove it thx and the by I’m a member of Richmond Woodturners Richmond Va
I just dribbled in a few drops into the threads and ran the tap thru again after it was dry.
Mike, another good video! Question: Do the Beall threads need any CA got toughen them up....or not so with this thread pattern? Thanks again.
I have done it both ways and don't think CA is worth it. A bit of parafin wax on the threads helps reduce the friction when threading on a spindle.
@@MikePeaceWoodturning But doesn't the CA harden and make the threads stronger?
@@mitsukowalker5831 Yes. As I said I have not found it necessary to harden the threads. I have never stripped a wood thread on a glue block. I don't like using CA if I don't feel it is necessary,.
Nice demo Mike. I have a question for you; is there a reason why you didn't lock the chuck in place while you were tapping the glue bock?
After rewatching I see what you mean. No reason at all. I do have a way of securing the spindle lock. No idea why I did not as I could have then used both hands to turn the tap and quill. I haven't had a need to make any since I did the video as I have a good supply on hand but will think about that next time I do. Thanks for catching that.
That's a useful video, thanks. Although I realize that there is no danger of a kickback when cutting off stock on a bandsaw while using the fence as a stop and the miter gauge to push, it is very dangerous to do that on a table saw. Since I tend to be a creature of habit, I never do that even on the bandsaw because someday I might forget...
You helped me with the CBN wheels where did you but this Beall Spindle tap from?
Have you been to my Amazon shop with the link in the video description? Also available from Woodcraft and Craft Supplies
Do you use CA glue for mounting green wood?
Yes, med or thick
@Mike Peace, I’m sorry to impose if you’ve already answered this somewhere else, but does the tapped bore have to go all the way through the piece? I am just thinking about the loss of glue surface. My immediate plan is to make a 12” sanding wheel to prep my segmented layers for gluing.
Know you could of course make your glue block thicker. It makes more sense to go all of the way thru though. The loss of glue surface is not significant. If it is a concern, simply make a glue block with a larger glue surface.
Mike Peace Woodturning , thanks Mike. I appreciate you sharing your knowledge.
Put a Jacobs collet in your tail stock and your tap will run in straight.
is 2x4 wood suitable for tapping a faceplate? It's probably fir.
Maybe for very light duty but since you will reuse, I would prefer something a bit stronger. I use poplar a lot since it is inexpensive and available in 8 quarter stock at the lumber yard. You could always glue up something thinner if you have 3/4" boards of cherry, maple or whatever.
Hey Mike, hope I didn't add a comment in your stead on the last post--at any rate, I was wanting to know how you go about putting CA on the threads to 'harden' them up a bit?Thanks--Don
+Don Davis I just dribble a wee bit of thin CA into the threads. After it dries, I simply run the tap thru the threads one more time and then rub a bit of candle paraffin into the threads.
+Mike Peace Thanks Mike, that's what I guessed, but I'm gonna make a couple of these tomorrow and just wanted to be sure--appreciate it!
Note that the address for my website has changed. It is now mikepeacewoodturning.com/
Hi
Sorry I should have posted links.
littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3104&category=
littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1963&category
Tw versions. I have the MT#2 shank
The second is a straight shank.
I have seen these by other makers
+Dennis Williams
Ok, thanks for sharing. Looks like it could be a helpful accessory if you have a mini lathe or willing to remove with a knockout bar.
Thanks for the video Mike; I have a spring loaded "tap guide" from Little Machine Shop. www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3104&category=
it is a spring loaded guide. This is a "short" length so it may NOT self eject from a slef ejecting tail stock.
Nice find. Thank you for putting this into the comments for everyone. Next thing I’m buying
Yep. Have one. That's what I use.