Rescreening and Repairing Phantom Retractable Screen
Вставка
- Опубліковано 21 сер 2024
- This video shows how to replace a torn or worn screen mesh in a Phantom Retractable Screen and restore it to work as good as new. It is not super hard to do, it just takes a little patience but it is well worthwhile.
If your screen mesh does not need to be replaced it is a simpler fix and you can watch my other shorter video here:
• Tuning and Repairing P...
Total Project Time: ~2 hours the first time, closer to 1 hour after you have done it once
What You Will Need:
- Screwdriver with multiple square drive bits
- Utility knife
- Painters tape
- Metal square edge for cutting screen
- 2"x4"x8' optional for cutting screen
- Plumber's GOOP
- Cleaner such as Simple Green
- Paper towels
- Silicone spray lubricant
- White Lithium Grease
![[UA] Team Vitality проти NAVI | IEM Cologne 2024](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wttO1zVRTC0/mqdefault.jpg)
Your "14 turns" and "pre-screwing the screws" in the endcap tip were very helpful. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you for this helpful video. We used your method to repair a screen that was partially ripped at the bottom of the sliding bar (with the handle). We took the screen down from the doorway and laid it flat on the floor. Since we weren't replacing the entire screen, we just extended the screen about 12" and clamped it with lightweight cardboard and strong paper clips so that it couldn't retract during our repair. Then starting at about 5:50 in your video, we removed the spline from the bar, cut the stitching to release the screen from the spline, cut off about 1/2" of screen to get a new clean edge and then slid the spline (with screen wrapped around it) back into the slot in the bar. Important: we couldn't get the spline to slide all the way in. At about 75% it became stuck and wouldn't slide in the rest of the way. So we started over and proceeded by carefully pulling from the lead in, instead of pushing from the trailing end. This "pulling" to advance the spline in the slot kept the screen from bunching-up in the slot and worked better for us. Then we reinstalled the screen back on the doorway and it would still fully extend and latch magnetically. (So, there is a little extra screen on the roller and that allowed us to trim a little off without completely replacing the entire screen. The only cost was our time.🙂
I can’t thank you enough for posting this video. My dog went blasting through my screen last year and tore the screen from the roll at the bottom. I’ve called my Phantom Screen guy several times, but he never called back. So…I thought I’d try to repair it myself. Thanks to your great directions, I was able to repair my screen. It’s as good as new. Yay!
Awesome man! Glad you fixed it. Did you do a full screen replacement?
Thank you. Video is a great help. I am about halfway thru my repair. The comment about "taking a tradesman an hour when it takes you a day" hit home for me.
1) I have a 94 inch by 36 inch opening and I would recommend people actually take the time to adhere the spline to the screen. Why? My spline broke. I know you described it as "tedious". But its hard to control how much material folds over.
I still used the broken spline pieces. I think it will hold in the channel.
2) The goop and getting other end straight onto cylinder are also difficult.
I am in the process of waiting for adhesive to cure.
I’ve been installing Phantom Screens for many years as my occupation. This is a great DIY tutorial on how to re-screen and service them. A couple suggestions, If you had taken the spring out of the tube and lubricated it, that would’ve taken care of the squeak. And there is no need for the white lithium grease, it only served to make a mess of the mesh, as seen in the video, and will just help collect dirt in the bottom cap. Great job I hope it helps other do this simple repair themselves.
Thank you for the suggestions and commentary!
What would you recommend to lubricate the spring with?
@@mikelandman1421 3 in 1 or any light machine oil, even WD-40 would work when lubricating the spring.
Hi phantom screen dealers won’t sell me and parts because of warranty issues all I need is the Spline to install a new screen is there anyway around this? The spline sold at Home Depot is the round rubber type I need the flat plastic type that slides into tbt slot of Rail .. any info will be helpful thanks
@@dougseskey5925 Phantom mfg sends the mesh already sewn onto a spline. You could use the spline from the mesh that you took out of the unit like the guy does in the video. Or you could pay the local dealer to come service and re-screen it. I’m sure he’s a small business and could probably use the work. What he can do in an hour might take you your whole Saturday.
Absolutely a first rate tutorial on the various steps to take to retension these Phantom Screen Doors. It took me a few minutes to determine the manufacturer until I saw the small Mylar Warning label with the 1-888-PHANTOM phone number. Once I had the name straight to UA-cam. Took me 4 tries to get the 14 rotations and then get the end pieces secured back into the U-shaped channel. A helper or two is certainly recommended in my experience of this afternoon. Patience is a virtue but the job is straightforward, just follow every step in the video.
Thank you very much from Bradenton Florida after successfully completing this repair after a dog ran through the screen door at my friend’s house.
Great to hear you were succesful! Any tips or pointers? How would you rate it in terms of difficulty of work?
@@prototypechannel6975 I would say 7 - 8 in difficulty. Patience is the biggest requirement because the spring is strong and it is easy to wind up but holding it securely once wound and getting it back in the frame is very finicky. Definitely a 2 person job. Good luck.
Thank you for this. My dog went through the screen and pulled the lower third off the spindle. After watching your video we were able to take off the cartridge, restick the screen to the spindle and reattach the cartridge. I think I'll put some painters tape on the bottom to act as a visual barrier. Thanks again for sharing. Much appreciated.
Nailed it the first time because of this video. Cheers mate
Very helpful! Ours didn't survive a birthday party last night and this was really helpful in letting me repair the damage.
ABSOLUTELY Convinced me not to do this! THANK YOU!
Great video. Thanks. I'm about to replace mine today. Should be straightforward after watching this.
Double sided tape rather than glue btw! Also get a hook blade to cut the screen.
Did you repair yours?
@@prototypechannel6975 yes, works great
Extremely helpful. So glad you did this video. I would not have attempted to do it if I didn't see your video. Also you were spot on with the number of turns (14). It all went back together perfectly. Thanks again !
awesome! Did it all work fine after?
Wow, that was a lot of careful work!
Don't worry mines not cut straight either. Great video though wouldn't have been able to do it without this. Great job
Great video! I've repaired a lot of standard window & door screens, but I'm only on my second retractable now. I called the distributor in my area for some info (is a 36" screen enough for a 32" door?) but they were less than helpful. In fact they kept insisting I let them make the repair. Your video answers a lot of questions! Thanks again!
Did you fix your screen yourself? please let me know!
@@prototypechannel6975 sorry for the delay... I'm a Handyman contractor and I've done a lot of work for this customer, when I saw it was a Phantom screen I asked if they were the original buyers. They were, and so it was covered under the "lifetime" warranty. Happy to say they were thankful and are still my customers!
@@el.handyman excellent
The “square head” screws are called Robertson screws. Great video.
🇨🇦 (our contribution to woodworking!)
Thanks for the video. only thing I did different was 14 didn't work at all, so I just turned it until there was a little resistance
Thank you ur video made it so much easier for.me to install my retractable screen
That worked like a charm! Thank you!!
Thanks for the video it was great and I replaced mine with no problem at all ..
Thank you for the thorough instruction! Much appreciated!
Thank you, this video was very helpful!
Great video!! Very helpful! Thank you!!
Thank you! That was so well explained.
The grease is just something for the dirt to accumulate on the factory in Abbotsford BC Canada never does that and I've been installing these screens since 1994 and I have never seen that PEOPLE DONT USE GREASE this is not a wheel bearing
Well Done! I'm repairing a single door that is ~40 inch wide. How may turns to re-set the spring? Thanks
Thanks for the positive comments. The screens I used in the video are about 34" wide, so I would probably add 2-3 turns for 40".
Better to not add any more than 1-2 turns and you probably won't need any. Sometimes you actually need to come down a turn or two or the pull is in danger of overloading the spring and breaking it. Let me know if you were succesful!
When you wound up the spring at 18:48 there was some extra screen that didn't retract. Did you have it clamped or otherwise held in place? The next scene where you're holding the whole screen shows it winding it in and out but before that the screen wasn't retracting. It was just loose on the workbench. There was some loose mesh hanging out of the cartridge. How is that?
Curious how you came up with 14 times? :) Thank you for the video! Repair successful
@@Jeff-yj1jn pretty much trial and error
@@Jeff-yj1jn glad it was helpful!
great video
three more questions: 1) why Plumber's GOOP, 2) how long do you let it dry and 3) how many turns of extra material on the spring tube would be necessary. Thanks
Plumber's GOOP is great because (1) it is goopy enough that you can smear it along the length of the tube and then the screen will hold almost immediately (2) it adheres well to metal and fiberglass/plastic (3) it is waterproof, and (4) you don't really need it to cure or dry before moving on. I smeared the goop onto the first wrap of screen, then added another wrap which still sort of adheres, then it's all set. You could probably use many other adhesives but I found the GOOP worked well.
@@rcl767 double sided tape from 3m is whats used on the product originally. cheers!
@@prototypechannel6975 thanks for the helpful input!
Several months ago I had called Phantom and asked for instructions on how to rescreen and and how and ware to buy replacement parts they told me that i could not buy parts they didn't have instructions but they could send a repairman out to do the repair. Which l thought was crap. So I told them I was going to suggest my customer replace it. A few days later they Tried calling me several times At that point I was so fed up with them I just replaced the screen with a different manufacturer.
Terrible experience. Every piece of a phantom is replaceable.. its actually the ultimate DIY screen.
Awesome video, but I would suggest a couple things. First of all I would try using two way tape instead of the plumbers goop and I would not put any lithium grease in the bottom cap because I think your asking for trouble. I am not knocking your idea but I just think that the grease will make a mess of your screen and dirt, leaves etc will just build up quickly there. I suggest spraying the tracks at the top and bottom where the pull bar rides on with jig-a-loo which you can buy at any home depot or hardware store. I found that it works amazing on retractables. Spray the tracks once a month and after every time you clean them. Retractables are slick doors but they do need to be maintained. Dirt, leaves collect in the bottom track and every time you retract the door into the housing the dirt goes with it and eventually after while the screen with start to fray. So , in a nutshell keeping the tracks clean, mainly the lower lubricated with jig-a loo, your screen will last a lot longer. You did a very good job in explaing things. I enjoyed your lesson very much. Cheers
Thanks for the suggestions. No doubt the most important thing is to keep tracks clean and well lubricated in the first place. Phantom uses silicone spray. Jig-a-loo is also silicone based (wikipedia) but has some other magic ingredients that give it some wd-40 traits that can be helpful. Beware the warning label "Some plastics and painted surfaces may be damaged with contact"
what 'weight' of screen did you use? There are very light weight and heavy weight screens available.
Very Good
Do you think that lubricating the channel that the spline goes in would make that step easier, or would you not recommend it? Also, I found that the endcap that holds the spring side was full of gunk, and the rectangular notch for the spring was really rusted. The endcap seemed like it was on tight, is there anything you would recommend to prevent that from happening?
I didn't have too much trouble with the spline but if yours is sticky I don't see how a little silicone lubricant would hurt. As for the end caps, yes, the bottom caps tend to accumulate debris, which I think is a weak point in the design. Best defense is probably to keep your tracks as clean as possible.
@@rcl767 keep tracks clean and more importantly make sure the tracks can drain.. even if you drill a tiny hole in the underside of the track it would help.. The real rusty ones water essentially drains into the end cap over years.
Amazing
This is the door we are working with. Where did you get a replacement kit?
There is no special kit needed for this, just basic material you can pick up at your local hardware store, big box store or online/amazon. Just an appropriate size roll of screen of your choice, masking tape, white lithium grease, and plumbers GOOP
I went to Andersen’s website, entered my door serial # and was able to confirm the part, including color I needed.
www.andersenwindows.com
For my white Andersen 3000 storm door I ordered Screen & Track Kit (40588). I ordered on a Saturday, the part shipped from Emco in Des Moines on Wednesday and arrived (to me in MPLS.)the following day.
@@annelouiseliska9296 It not an andersen product.
Any info on the top latching mechanism? When I depress the level the top latching mechanism does not pull down far enough and the door sticks. Any guidance would be great!
The latch could be coming off.. Try tapping the little latch and see if it seats better. Complex to explain but it might also have skipped the teeth. Fixable but not easy to explain... haha.
Any chance of knowing where you get the long screw that fit in the cartridge. Very good work
If your local hardware or big box store can't help you try boltdepot.com
And thanks!
Thank you for the instruction. We are stuck at the reloading the spring part. Once we turn it 14 times and push the end cap in and screw it in, we still lose recoil right away. Any suggestions on where we are going wrong?
Since you can wind up the spring it tells me your cap is not stripped. Do you have the other end cap (the end without the spring) screwed in first? I'm thinking maybe the whole screen cartridge is sliding out from the end cap and releasing the coil.
@@rcl767 This is usually the case yes.
Nice
Dude you don't have to use a half a can those phantom silicon spray cans are pricey
Super
I tried replacing, I used aluminum mesh and failed miserable, could not feed it through without it collapsing. Are you using carbon mesh?
Sorry to hear that, you should use fiberglass mesh as with the original screen
@@rcl767 Thanks for your quick response, appreciate it and an awesome video
Hello, where can I get the plastic style spline? ( The old spline in frail and broke a few inches off )Home Depot only sells the round rubber type … thank your
@@dougseskey5925 Did you find a suitable replacement?
Hi there, thank you for this great video. I used the shortened video to clean things up and get everything moving smoothly again. It's now time to replace the mesh. Do you have any thoughts on using a thicker screen (like a 'pet-resistant' screen) and then purchasing a thinner spline? I think that might work for the latching side but possibly concerned the thickness of the roll inside the cartridge/cassette side. Thanks again.
Never tried the thicker screen but you can probably compare the roll sizes at the store to see the difference. To my mind it seems there should be plenty of room to accommodate it though. You'll probably need to wind the spring a few more times than you would otherwise.
@@rcl767 Great, thank you. Appreciate the insight.
You can do it but the screen tends to slow down the screen. Add an extra turn when loading the spring and it should be doable. The petmesh is pretty bullet proof.
@@prototypechannel6975 thank you for your input!
@@RVandersloot let me know if you were successful!
Neat
Very good video. I like how you went into detail how to take a part the and replace the entire screen. Here is a suggestion, as I'm an impatient person and want to do away with the extra commentary. Just tell the people to clean the dirty areas and continue on with your instruction. You don't need a play by play on common sense areas of your video. Good job! It would be awesome is you did away with a story. LOL!
perhaps you might want to high someone to 'just do it' - why waste your time watching videos
unfortunately common sense is anything but common yeah?