Just went through this myself on my Grand Marquis timing set change. I had to drain the oil then use a stack of neodymium magnets on the outside of the pan to find the bolts and a grabber claw through the drain plug hole to recover the bolts. What a pain. Seriously added 4 hours. I'm putting magnets under the pan at the front to catch the bolts when I go to reassemble.
Use a tire plug tool, spread the tool so its tight on the bolt, you can use it to hold the bolt while you start the threads, then u can use for tension while your ratcheting, once its tight enough simply pull the tool off, been doing it for years and works well!!
@@SpookyDaScary59 Also works great for removing them once there loose enough, so you dont run the risk of losing the bolt in the pan, cause if you do your basically !$%#ed,
the bottom bolt on the pickup tube is a bear. i used a trim tool to press against the bolt head and ratching wrench to help with keeping pressure on the bolt as i ratcheded back and forth. the bolt did fall into the oil pan but luckily it appears there is a bit of a sump and i was able to reach it with my fingers. going back in is a different story.
I am going to drive front tires onto ramps and drop the oil pan because I need to re-tighten it in sequence and apply gasket sealant to a couple areas, so hopefully installing a new oil pump will not be too bad.
I ended draining my oil, it was due anyway and just dropped both bolts, one of them rolled out the to the drain hole, if you don’t mind sacrificing a screw driver, from the drain hole have someone stick a long flat heat screw driver lit should reach your 8 mil ractchet, then apply pressure again two person job, but you’ll have it done really quick. I’m doing timing next weekend
I just got mine loose a second ago and walked away before I pulled it off the crank. I'm getting ready to go back out and pull the old one off and slide the new one on. Man, I've made up new curse words trying to get that one bolt out of the tube
@@TestDontguess I did. Had good luck. Thanks for the hints! Ive got the phasers, chains, guides and tensioners on and my daughter just came yelling she wants pizza so im on a break right now making pizza and rubbing Tylonol, menthol cream on my bad hip before I go back out and double check my links and torque specs before I start cleaning the front cover and doing all that. Thanks again for the tips!!!
@@TestDontguess I've got about everything back on. All accessory, belt, both cam covers. Ima put new plugs in even though I've changed em quite a bit. But then, fan and shroud, hook up all wiring and new oil and filter, antifreeze and steering fluid. Gonna leave the crank sensor out and prime er'thing first then see if it'll start......
I believe he was just doing a timeing job. the 5.4 Triton are notorious for having oil problems and weak pumps after 100,000 miles . So if you do a timing jod chang the pump. And use a Melling M360 high volume pump as a replacement.
Excellent video. I have a motorhome, and access to the pump is thru the 10 inch gap between the radiator(s) and the front of the engine. Removal of the oil pan requires partial removal of the engine. But I have a question. If the oil pan was emptied of oil, then the oil pan bolts were loosened but not removed, the oil pan would drop by about an inch. Would that allow easier access to the pick-up tube bolts? Or would re-tightening the oil pan be too difficult?
Thanks for the video... 2010 5.4L 3V ... I'll be putting on a Melling 360 HV once I get the timing cover off. Already did cam phasers, then discovered my chain guide was broke on the pass side (seems like everyone) so I'm now doing timing chains (Melling chain & guide kit w/cast iron adjusters option - prob should have stayed with plastic tho per Makuloco) as well as the VCT solenoids. I'm also going with an ACDelco water pump. Do you think loosening the pan and dropping it an inch would have helped in getting the bolts loose and put back on?
If a person takes a very small piece of wire and wraps around the threads of the bolts for the oil pump suction that would hold him while you screw them in once you get them 3/4 away you can just pull on the wire and get it out. Old trick from installing trailer hitches
@@jerrymccurry9372 that's funny I was thinking about buying a chain and pump and doing that job on my 06 cop car runs like raped ape I hate to lose a valve over a worn-out timing chain guide I don't want to do it I'm getting old dammit
Dont listen to the previous reply to you. Replacing cam phaser and lockout is a bandaid. Its an easier and faster fix than oil pump. Its bearing clearance and oil pump. Simple. Low pressure. Rattling from chain is low pressure due to passenger side tensioner gets oil last. Replacing phaser like he said will only end up with the SAME result eventually. How do i know? I am a ford mechanic AND I did the phaser first because it was faster. Didnt have time to do front cover and not have vehicle working and down at all. Quick fix, cam phaser for tap tap taps. If you got rattling, it is was not my phaser, it was chain tensioner. Go up in viscosity to 5w30 and it will go away and will last a long time again. Eventually will have to change pump tho. Ignore this guy up here 👆
i ve changed the oil pump on my tahoe 2011 5.3 but i forgot to put oil in the pump and its already installed. what should i do before i damage anything?
Is it possible to install it wrong even if it locks up to the block and the pickup tube? I'm not getting any oil pressure when I crank without spark...
Is he working frm the top of the motor or bottom.... My oil pump In 01 Lincoln Navigator I looked it up on Google and it gives 7 eazy steps... And I don't know anything about motors... But the step seem very easy the way they say to do it
I bought a kit off of Ebay, Drivers side chain guide was too long, had to use the old one. Good thing it was only broke on Passenger side. Water Pump circumference where the fan screws on was too small, Oil pump that came with it, didn't pump oil, I cranked it over for a bit and never did see a jump on the gauge in the truck . Never buy crap off of Ebay to save a little money, Didn't seize the motor as I had the crankshaft sensor unplugged and didn't push it too far, but definitely a lesson learnt, don't cheap out and order from RockAuto.
I am getting ready to pull the timing chains and guides off. I'm 16 and I dont know what to do put the key hole to the 12 o clock position, then what take the guides and tensioners off and pull the chains and everything off? Please help and try to explain.
@@TestDontguess I seen what you did man it's just confusing to me I dont have the tool you had to hold it in place and I'm putting new chains on too. Is there a way you can explain it to me that's not to complicated. I'm sorry I'm just a kid that wants my truck back in running shape and it stresses me out because I dont know how to do the chains.
Jeramy Wrestler u can put crankshaft at 6 oclock and make sure the right phaser and left phaser are facing in correct timing direction, if not just turn crankshaft til they line up, then u can go head and remove chains and guides , with no need to remove rollers
@@bclent2003 I took off the oil sending unit. Cut the spray wand off of a pump style spray bottle and attached a fitting that will screw into sending unit's hole. Put 3 quarts in bottle and pump
@@TestDontguess think hes referring to the 360hv made for upgrading the 4 valves which is same bolt up. Nonetheless the 340 is def upgrade. Question: did you remove ac and heater hoses on pass valve cover? Also do you think 10:30 or 11:00 is more accurate at crank? Im thinking about eyeballing that one. Thank you
Tried this on a 2000 f150 - 5.4L 2v but the pump would not clear the pickup tube. I pushed the tube down to what appears farther down than these videos, but 1/4" of the tube was still in the pump. My tube also has a bracket attached that braces the tube against the pan bottom preventing me from pushing farther. Anyone do this on the 2v 5.4L?
Mine has these two short bolts and one really long one. I can't for the life of me figure where the hell the long one goes... Its just way to long to go in any of the three holes
Decided instead of trying to get that second bolt in I'd just go out and find a magic fucken genie in a bottle cause I probably got a better shot at that. Most stupid punch in the dick motor I've worked on and now I need a headlight cause I just put my foot thru mine
No matter how you try and get to them bolts there is only one word for it SUCKS. I have done them from standing over it and from laying on my back, it's bad no matter what. Out is better than putting them back in. No audio when getting them out or in was likely for all the what the *#!* and many other words. I have done them in trucks and cars it is the same for both.
Just went through this myself on my Grand Marquis timing set change. I had to drain the oil then use a stack of neodymium magnets on the outside of the pan to find the bolts and a grabber claw through the drain plug hole to recover the bolts. What a pain. Seriously added 4 hours. I'm putting magnets under the pan at the front to catch the bolts when I go to reassemble.
Good idea
Use a tire plug tool, spread the tool so its tight on the bolt, you can use it to hold the bolt while you start the threads, then u can use for tension while your ratcheting, once its tight enough simply pull the tool off, been doing it for years and works well!!
What is a tire plug tool?
@@GFXWard rubber tool use for plugging holes on pieced tires made by Slime, interesting method.
@@SpookyDaScary59 Also works great for removing them once there loose enough, so you dont run the risk of losing the bolt in the pan, cause if you do your basically !$%#ed,
@@GFXWard tool used to insert a plug into a tire which has a hole, can be found at any parts store, cheap!!
I`m not a big person so I crawled down in there and it took me more time watching the video than it took to get both bolts out. Be safe
Thank you for posting this. I have the 2wd so I ended up pulling the pan. I tried the hard way and gave up after 15 minutes.
Did that over the weekend, that one bolt was fun. I stood down in there, rather than leaning over.
Look on the bright side you got done in 8 minutes and 36 sec 😂😂
😂
Spend 2 hours getting the bolt loose
Spend 3 hours searching for and retrieving the bolt
Good trick with the blanket.
Yes it’s not a fun job
Spent 15 minutes pulling pan off
Would it be easier to just pull the pan?
Thank you. Excellent video. 100% convinced me to pay someone else to do it.
the bottom bolt on the pickup tube is a bear. i used a trim tool to press against the bolt head and ratching wrench to help with keeping pressure on the bolt as i ratcheded back and forth. the bolt did fall into the oil pan but luckily it appears there is a bit of a sump and i was able to reach it with my fingers. going back in is a different story.
Great video. Chevrolet vortec engines are the same, but they are known for plugged pick up screen.
Im about to head out and do this your way, on my aussie falcon 5.4l 4v. Great vid man will help me out no end, except with the frustration 😁😞
Before removal clean the bolt heads with brake clean along with the wrench and put super glue on the wrench. Works everytime for I Me the royal We
Looks like I’m going to have a blast upgrading my oil pump when I install my cams to my 2010 F150 4.6 3v.
It’s not a fun job to say the least
I am going to drive front tires onto ramps and drop the oil pan because I need to re-tighten it in sequence and apply gasket sealant to a couple areas, so hopefully installing a new oil pump will not be too bad.
I ended draining my oil, it was due anyway and just dropped both bolts, one of them rolled out the to the drain hole, if you don’t mind sacrificing a screw driver, from the drain hole have someone stick a long flat heat screw driver lit should reach your 8 mil ractchet, then apply pressure again two person job, but you’ll have it done really quick. I’m doing timing next weekend
Great idea.
Was there a gasket at the pump flange to block.
I just jumped in here Jerry. Any reason you didn't change out the water pump while you have it al open?
I did that video is later on
I just got mine loose a second ago and walked away before I pulled it off the crank. I'm getting ready to go back out and pull the old one off and slide the new one on. Man, I've made up new curse words trying to get that one bolt out of the tube
Get the new one on yet ?
@@TestDontguess I did. Had good luck. Thanks for the hints! Ive got the phasers, chains, guides and tensioners on and my daughter just came yelling she wants pizza so im on a break right now making pizza and rubbing Tylonol, menthol cream on my bad hip before I go back out and double check my links and torque specs before I start cleaning the front cover and doing all that. Thanks again for the tips!!!
@@TestDontguess can't forget to pull my pins on the tensioners and the put the tone ring "front side out" back on.
@@TestDontguess I've got about everything back on. All accessory, belt, both cam covers. Ima put new plugs in even though I've changed em quite a bit. But then, fan and shroud, hook up all wiring and new oil and filter, antifreeze and steering fluid. Gonna leave the crank sensor out and prime er'thing first then see if it'll start......
awesome in the end hopefully it will be a job well done, it's not a job i'd like to do over that's for sure
When I did mine I just pulled the pan cleaned it out to was way easier to put it back in
What made u change the oil pump what problems did it gave u
I believe he was just doing a timeing job. the 5.4 Triton are notorious for having oil problems and weak pumps after 100,000 miles . So if you do a timing jod chang the pump. And use a Melling M360 high volume pump as a replacement.
can change just the pump with touching the timing chain
@@nashvilletv8215 no. Timing chains have to come off.
Excellent video. I have a motorhome, and access to the pump is thru the 10 inch gap between the radiator(s) and the front of the engine. Removal of the oil pan requires partial removal of the engine. But I have a question. If the oil pan was emptied of oil, then the oil pan bolts were loosened but not removed, the oil pan would drop by about an inch. Would that allow easier access to the pick-up tube bolts? Or would re-tightening the oil pan be too difficult?
Thanks for the video... 2010 5.4L 3V ... I'll be putting on a Melling 360 HV once I get the timing cover off. Already did cam phasers, then discovered my chain guide was broke on the pass side (seems like everyone) so I'm now doing timing chains (Melling chain & guide kit w/cast iron adjusters option - prob should have stayed with plastic tho per Makuloco) as well as the VCT solenoids. I'm also going with an ACDelco water pump.
Do you think loosening the pan and dropping it an inch would have helped in getting the bolts loose and put back on?
I love the vid mine went out....note im 6' 3" so not to much of an issue reaching more of do i lose coolant or oilin process
why did you change it? Trying to trouble shoot my 07 expedition.. Thanks in advance.
Gave it a thumbs up for your hard work and dedication
If a person takes a very small piece of wire and wraps around the threads of the bolts for the oil pump suction that would hold him while you screw them in once you get them 3/4 away you can just pull on the wire and get it out. Old trick from installing trailer hitches
I thought of that...Makes good sense...Thanks for mentioning it...
@@jerrymccurry9372 that's funny I was thinking about buying a chain and pump and doing that job on my 06 cop car runs like raped ape I hate to lose a valve over a worn-out timing chain guide I don't want to do it I'm getting old dammit
I have oil leak on left side from top wondering if oil valve vacuum line.f150 2006 xlt 5.4
Nice change on the name . I have a borescope and it's a great addition. Ok it's not a snap but I don't have a snap wallet either :)
I decided to change the name to something more related. The snap on borescope is nice but sure it’s worth the money spent though
How does that mellon pump work for you? Has it helped the ticking at idle/cam phaser noise? Nice video. Appreciate it.
No,replace the cam phasers and do the lockout.That's the best solutiuon for these junk engines!
Dont listen to the previous reply to you. Replacing cam phaser and lockout is a bandaid. Its an easier and faster fix than oil pump. Its bearing clearance and oil pump. Simple. Low pressure. Rattling from chain is low pressure due to passenger side tensioner gets oil last. Replacing phaser like he said will only end up with the SAME result eventually. How do i know? I am a ford mechanic AND I did the phaser first because it was faster. Didnt have time to do front cover and not have vehicle working and down at all. Quick fix, cam phaser for tap tap taps. If you got rattling, it is was not my phaser, it was chain tensioner. Go up in viscosity to 5w30 and it will go away and will last a long time again. Eventually will have to change pump tho. Ignore this guy up here 👆
How did you Prime the oil pump for the first start?
i ve changed the oil pump on my tahoe 2011 5.3 but i forgot to put oil in the pump and its already installed. what should i do before i damage anything?
will this also be the same method for the 4.6? 2004 f150 base model
Yeah
Is it possible to install it wrong even if it locks up to the block and the pickup tube? I'm not getting any oil pressure when I crank without spark...
Im so pumped for that bolt
It’s been a few years… How’s the truck running?
Sold the truck a few years ago, it ran good until the transmission dropped out…. After that the owner sold it
Hey bro... My pump and pick up came with 3 o rings... Did you only use 1?
Does the 5.4 Factory Ford Oil pump have a Plastic Gear ???
Is he working frm the top of the motor or bottom.... My oil pump In 01 Lincoln Navigator I looked it up on Google and it gives 7 eazy steps... And I don't know anything about motors... But the step seem very easy the way they say to do it
Do you have and idea how much will cost labor?
Thank you I've seen enough🤣I'm pulling the sucker out.better yet us crush time.🤣
Hi, i am changing the oil pump on my explorer need to know if it is mounted with any gasket or sealent
No, but there is a metal backing plate on the pump, as you see in the video.
Yeah should I put sealant where butts up to the motor?
Will this work on an 03 expedition? 5.4 3v?
Appreciate u Man U just made my next job with my son easy ❤️🔥💋❤️🔥
I bought a kit off of Ebay, Drivers side chain guide was too long, had to use the old one. Good thing it was only broke on Passenger side. Water Pump circumference where the fan screws on was too small, Oil pump that came with it, didn't pump oil, I cranked it over for a bit and never did see a jump on the gauge in the truck . Never buy crap off of Ebay to save a little money, Didn't seize the motor as I had the crankshaft sensor unplugged and didn't push it too far, but definitely a lesson learnt, don't cheap out and order from RockAuto.
Never buy cheap timing stuff.
I am getting ready to pull the timing chains and guides off. I'm 16 and I dont know what to do put the key hole to the 12 o clock position, then what take the guides and tensioners off and pull the chains and everything off? Please help and try to explain.
I documented the whole process in the playlist
@@TestDontguess I seen what you did man it's just confusing to me I dont have the tool you had to hold it in place and I'm putting new chains on too. Is there a way you can explain it to me that's not to complicated. I'm sorry I'm just a kid that wants my truck back in running shape and it stresses me out because I dont know how to do the chains.
@@TestDontguess I also seen another guy take off the roller followers off, do you have to?
Jeramy Wrestler u can put crankshaft at 6 oclock and make sure the right phaser and left phaser are facing in correct timing direction, if not just turn crankshaft til they line up, then u can go head and remove chains and guides , with no need to remove rollers
@@Barrera00009 I locked the left side out with voice grips the other side I locked but they fell off what can I do man please help?
Is there a trick to priming the oil pump?.... Ive been cranking it for about 10 minutes
did u ever get an answer? Im havn the same issue
@@bclent2003 I took off the oil sending unit. Cut the spray wand off of a pump style spray bottle and attached a fitting that will screw into sending unit's hole. Put 3 quarts in bottle and pump
I saw another video were they disconnected the crank sensorr , and then crank the Key
Why didnt you go high volume and high pressure?
It is....
@@TestDontguess think hes referring to the 360hv made for upgrading the 4 valves which is same bolt up. Nonetheless the 340 is def upgrade.
Question: did you remove ac and heater hoses on pass valve cover?
Also do you think 10:30 or 11:00 is more accurate at crank? Im thinking about eyeballing that one.
Thank you
Good job looks like a good backbreaker
You don't have to remove pan to change pump?
No gasket at the pump out where is joined to the engine?.
Was wondering also. Thinking maybe that's why so many people are having trouble building pressure.
Thank you very much friend for your effort and shared knowledge, they were very helpful.
How much is that job with same parts
Thanx for the info.
Tried this on a 2000 f150 - 5.4L 2v but the pump would not clear the pickup tube. I pushed the tube down to what appears farther down than these videos, but 1/4" of the tube was still in the pump. My tube also has a bracket attached that braces the tube against the pan bottom preventing me from pushing farther. Anyone do this on the 2v 5.4L?
Exelente trabajo ING.
“Sausage fingers” lol
Thank you, good video.
Ty for the video,now togo change one out 😂
Mine has these two short bolts and one really long one. I can't for the life of me figure where the hell the long one goes... Its just way to long to go in any of the three holes
Another video suggested marking the long bolt as well as the hole to remember where that specific bolt came from.
Great video, keep making content 👍💯
Lock remove 😂 im with you there
Good experience 😅
Did I miss a change in the channel name. Or is that new.
I changed it over the weekend
What if you just pulled the whole motor out
Just pull the front end off. I do it all the time on my 6.0 powerstroke to pull engine. Way faster and so much room.
Decided instead of trying to get that second bolt in I'd just go out and find a magic fucken genie in a bottle cause I probably got a better shot at that. Most stupid punch in the dick motor I've worked on and now I need a headlight cause I just put my foot thru mine
Well I’m telling you now….. if you can and don’t mind doing a oil pump and a timing kit on a 5.4 you would have no problem recharging you A/C….
Do u have a number for questions
No
No matter how you try and get to them bolts there is only one word for it SUCKS. I have done them from standing over it and from laying on my back, it's bad no matter what. Out is better than putting them back in. No audio when getting them out or in was likely for all the what the *#!* and many other words. I have done them in trucks and cars it is the same for both.
Good job 👍🍺😎 but ford engines 👎👎👎👎👎🤮.