5.4 3V Oil Pump Replacement DIY The Hard Way
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- Опубліковано 3 вер 2018
- F150 Melling oil Pump amzn.to/3F3XujU
Canadian Link amzn.to/34wRmUI
Todays video i'm sharing the struggle of replacing the oil pump in a 2006 f150 with a 5.4 3V engine. Replacing the oil pump while doing a timing job is a good idea. Melling makes a high volume oil pump for worn engines that will make up for the pressure loss. My advice if you want to make this job easier is to remove the AC condenser as it will make your Job way easier
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#oilpump #diy #repair - Авто та транспорт
Thank you. Excellent video. 100% convinced me to pay someone else to do it.
Gave it a thumbs up for your hard work and dedication
Look on the bright side you got done in 8 minutes and 36 sec 😂😂
I`m not a big person so I crawled down in there and it took me more time watching the video than it took to get both bolts out. Be safe
Im about to head out and do this your way, on my aussie falcon 5.4l 4v. Great vid man will help me out no end, except with the frustration 😁😞
Thank you very much friend for your effort and shared knowledge, they were very helpful.
Thank you for posting this. I have the 2wd so I ended up pulling the pan. I tried the hard way and gave up after 15 minutes.
Did that over the weekend, that one bolt was fun. I stood down in there, rather than leaning over.
Great video. Chevrolet vortec engines are the same, but they are known for plugged pick up screen.
Just went through this myself on my Grand Marquis timing set change. I had to drain the oil then use a stack of neodymium magnets on the outside of the pan to find the bolts and a grabber claw through the drain plug hole to recover the bolts. What a pain. Seriously added 4 hours. I'm putting magnets under the pan at the front to catch the bolts when I go to reassemble.
Good idea
Use a tire plug tool, spread the tool so its tight on the bolt, you can use it to hold the bolt while you start the threads, then u can use for tension while your ratcheting, once its tight enough simply pull the tool off, been doing it for years and works well!!
What is a tire plug tool?
@@GFXWard rubber tool use for plugging holes on pieced tires made by Slime, interesting method.
@@SpookyDaScary59 Also works great for removing them once there loose enough, so you dont run the risk of losing the bolt in the pan, cause if you do your basically !$%#ed,
@@GFXWard tool used to insert a plug into a tire which has a hole, can be found at any parts store, cheap!!
Appreciate u Man U just made my next job with my son easy ❤️🔥💋❤️🔥
Looks like I’m going to have a blast upgrading my oil pump when I install my cams to my 2010 F150 4.6 3v.
It’s not a fun job to say the least
Thanx for the info.
Exelente trabajo ING.
Thanks for the video... 2010 5.4L 3V ... I'll be putting on a Melling 360 HV once I get the timing cover off. Already did cam phasers, then discovered my chain guide was broke on the pass side (seems like everyone) so I'm now doing timing chains (Melling chain & guide kit w/cast iron adjusters option - prob should have stayed with plastic tho per Makuloco) as well as the VCT solenoids. I'm also going with an ACDelco water pump.
Do you think loosening the pan and dropping it an inch would have helped in getting the bolts loose and put back on?
Excellent video. I have a motorhome, and access to the pump is thru the 10 inch gap between the radiator(s) and the front of the engine. Removal of the oil pan requires partial removal of the engine. But I have a question. If the oil pan was emptied of oil, then the oil pan bolts were loosened but not removed, the oil pan would drop by about an inch. Would that allow easier access to the pick-up tube bolts? Or would re-tightening the oil pan be too difficult?
Would it be easier to just pull the pan?
the bottom bolt on the pickup tube is a bear. i used a trim tool to press against the bolt head and ratching wrench to help with keeping pressure on the bolt as i ratcheded back and forth. the bolt did fall into the oil pan but luckily it appears there is a bit of a sump and i was able to reach it with my fingers. going back in is a different story.
When I did mine I just pulled the pan cleaned it out to was way easier to put it back in
I love the vid mine went out....note im 6' 3" so not to much of an issue reaching more of do i lose coolant or oilin process
why did you change it? Trying to trouble shoot my 07 expedition.. Thanks in advance.
i ve changed the oil pump on my tahoe 2011 5.3 but i forgot to put oil in the pump and its already installed. what should i do before i damage anything?
Is it possible to install it wrong even if it locks up to the block and the pickup tube? I'm not getting any oil pressure when I crank without spark...
I am going to drive front tires onto ramps and drop the oil pan because I need to re-tighten it in sequence and apply gasket sealant to a couple areas, so hopefully installing a new oil pump will not be too bad.
Great video, keep making content 👍💯
Hey bro... My pump and pick up came with 3 o rings... Did you only use 1?
I actually managed to use needle nose pliers to get the final turns on the bolt.
Can you replace an oil pump after it's gone all the way out it stop my motor
Spend 2 hours getting the bolt loose
Spend 3 hours searching for and retrieving the bolt
Good trick with the blanket.
Yes it’s not a fun job
Spent 15 minutes pulling pan off
I have oil leak on left side from top wondering if oil valve vacuum line.f150 2006 xlt 5.4
Do you have and idea how much will cost labor?
Ty for the video,now togo change one out 😂
Nice change on the name . I have a borescope and it's a great addition. Ok it's not a snap but I don't have a snap wallet either :)
I decided to change the name to something more related. The snap on borescope is nice but sure it’s worth the money spent though
How did you Prime the oil pump for the first start?
Will this work on an 03 expedition? 5.4 3v?
Thank you I've seen enough🤣I'm pulling the sucker out.better yet us crush time.🤣
Does the 5.4 Factory Ford Oil pump have a Plastic Gear ???
will this also be the same method for the 4.6? 2004 f150 base model
Yeah
Tried this on a 2000 f150 - 5.4L 2v but the pump would not clear the pickup tube. I pushed the tube down to what appears farther down than these videos, but 1/4" of the tube was still in the pump. My tube also has a bracket attached that braces the tube against the pan bottom preventing me from pushing farther. Anyone do this on the 2v 5.4L?
Good experience 😅
I just jumped in here Jerry. Any reason you didn't change out the water pump while you have it al open?
I did that video is later on
I ended draining my oil, it was due anyway and just dropped both bolts, one of them rolled out the to the drain hole, if you don’t mind sacrificing a screw driver, from the drain hole have someone stick a long flat heat screw driver lit should reach your 8 mil ractchet, then apply pressure again two person job, but you’ll have it done really quick. I’m doing timing next weekend
Great idea.
Hi, i am changing the oil pump on my explorer need to know if it is mounted with any gasket or sealent
No, but there is a metal backing plate on the pump, as you see in the video.
Yeah should I put sealant where butts up to the motor?
How does that mellon pump work for you? Has it helped the ticking at idle/cam phaser noise? Nice video. Appreciate it.
No,replace the cam phasers and do the lockout.That's the best solutiuon for these junk engines!
Dont listen to the previous reply to you. Replacing cam phaser and lockout is a bandaid. Its an easier and faster fix than oil pump. Its bearing clearance and oil pump. Simple. Low pressure. Rattling from chain is low pressure due to passenger side tensioner gets oil last. Replacing phaser like he said will only end up with the SAME result eventually. How do i know? I am a ford mechanic AND I did the phaser first because it was faster. Didnt have time to do front cover and not have vehicle working and down at all. Quick fix, cam phaser for tap tap taps. If you got rattling, it is was not my phaser, it was chain tensioner. Go up in viscosity to 5w30 and it will go away and will last a long time again. Eventually will have to change pump tho. Ignore this guy up here 👆
Is he working frm the top of the motor or bottom.... My oil pump In 01 Lincoln Navigator I looked it up on Google and it gives 7 eazy steps... And I don't know anything about motors... But the step seem very easy the way they say to do it
Lock remove 😂 im with you there
“Sausage fingers” lol
You don't have to remove pan to change pump?
I just got mine loose a second ago and walked away before I pulled it off the crank. I'm getting ready to go back out and pull the old one off and slide the new one on. Man, I've made up new curse words trying to get that one bolt out of the tube
Get the new one on yet ?
@@TestDontguess I did. Had good luck. Thanks for the hints! Ive got the phasers, chains, guides and tensioners on and my daughter just came yelling she wants pizza so im on a break right now making pizza and rubbing Tylonol, menthol cream on my bad hip before I go back out and double check my links and torque specs before I start cleaning the front cover and doing all that. Thanks again for the tips!!!
@@TestDontguess can't forget to pull my pins on the tensioners and the put the tone ring "front side out" back on.
@@TestDontguess I've got about everything back on. All accessory, belt, both cam covers. Ima put new plugs in even though I've changed em quite a bit. But then, fan and shroud, hook up all wiring and new oil and filter, antifreeze and steering fluid. Gonna leave the crank sensor out and prime er'thing first then see if it'll start......
awesome in the end hopefully it will be a job well done, it's not a job i'd like to do over that's for sure
How much is that job with same parts
Would've been interesting to see how badly blocked the pickup screen was. If the pump has to fight against a bunch of crap on the inlet, it would be tough on the pump and engine and negate the effect of the upgrade. 'S alright though, you can check that when we get the new video for changing out the rod journal bearings...
I agree the oil pump has to be upgraded to higher vol & pressure because the stock one was probably spec'd for lighter less viscous oil used for CAFE certification. IMHO proper oil should be 30 weight; 10W if plugged in thru the winter, 5W otherwise. My 5.4 3v is older than this one and I'll be doing this whole shitaroo next spring c/w cam rollers and injector tests.
The Oil pump is a gerotor style, doesn’t matter what type of oil runs though them. I see people are getting confused about the whole pumps and pressure again even after i did a video about it a few years ago. Pressure is a result of resistance to flow, if your clearances are too big it won’t matter what the relief is set at in the pump. I went with the 340hv which is 20 percent more volume over stock. Not sure why someone would want to install a pump with a higher pressure considering the added stress that would cause on the tensioners and blow them out faster
The georotor is a positive displacement pump, which has to draw a charge of non-compressible fluid through the inlet screen and out through the engine, in a path from one side to the other and back to front, etc. Yes, it works with a wide range of viscosities. And yes oil pressure is manifested by resistance at many points in the engine. But there is a pressure drop and energy drop across each point of resistance in the oil path thru the engine. By the time the oil gets to the last part of the path, there might not be enough pressure and energy left in the oil for the hydraulics work it has to do, even if there might be enough volume for lube purposes. For example by the time it gets to the passenger side tensioner, pressure is lower than at the driver's side, which is why the chain often starts slapping at the passenger side first and worst. And why trouble and noise usually starts first at the phasor on that side. And why some videos have shown worse varnish on cams on that side. But the gaskets blowing out on the tensioners are just a shitty gasket design, not a sign of excess pressure.
Having higher peak pressure developed near the pump outlet to start with allows more residual hydraulic pressure (and energy) to be left at the end of the line. If higher viscosity oil is used because it is believed parts are protected better with it, then more energy is used up early through the engine because of that greater viscosity before it gets downstream. Or, if VCT solenoid screens are plugged with broken crap or are seizing closed or sticking from really dirty oil, then not enough pressure will get from them to the phasors either, resulting in phasor problems. That's where developing more peak pressure at the start of the oil circuit with a heavier spring would be an advantage.
If lighter oil is used, less pressure drop occurs through the early part of the oil circuit, so enough energy might be available at the end, for newer components and oil in perfect condition. So lower peak pressures of a stock pump might suffice in that case.
Higher volume for lube purposes is generally a good idea, as far as I'm aware. But higher volume from a positive displacement pump which puts more oil through a circuit of resistances would also generate more pressure all throughout that circuit. Maybe not enough peak pressure to open the diversion valve in the pump to dump oil directly back to the sump in a worn engine as you correctly note but still, higher pressures.
IMHO with a heavier pump diversion spring, if peak pressures cannot be generated due to a looser engine anyway, there'd be no difference and no disadvantage compared to using a pump with a lighter spring. The increase in volume flow against resistance would generate more pressure for any flow rate, but maybe not enough to get all the way up to the levels where either spring would be actuated to dump oil back to the sump. Who knows. A real pump pressure gauge mounted on a tee fitting on the pressure switch might show that.
The resistance of a partially blocked inlet screen would also consume more energy from the pump and therefore engine, as it takes more torque to get that charge of oil into the gerotor. No idea if cavitation would play any role under these conditions. It's not completely clear though what effect there would be on oil out the pump when it had already compensated for the amount of energy used to draw it through debris on the screen.
it would be interesting to know what the pressure drop would be from the passenger side and where the idiot sensor is by the oil filter. I understand what your saying with the higher pressure pump, however lots of variables come into play.
especially when it only takes 20 minutes to remove the sway bar and cross member. drop one side of the axel , and pull the pan. then 2 more question marks are done.
What made u change the oil pump what problems did it gave u
I believe he was just doing a timeing job. the 5.4 Triton are notorious for having oil problems and weak pumps after 100,000 miles . So if you do a timing jod chang the pump. And use a Melling M360 high volume pump as a replacement.
can change just the pump with touching the timing chain
@@nashvilletv8215 no. Timing chains have to come off.
It’s been a few years… How’s the truck running?
Sold the truck a few years ago, it ran good until the transmission dropped out…. After that the owner sold it
No gasket at the pump out where is joined to the engine?.
Was wondering also. Thinking maybe that's why so many people are having trouble building pressure.
Is there a trick to priming the oil pump?.... Ive been cranking it for about 10 minutes
did u ever get an answer? Im havn the same issue
@@bclent2003 I took off the oil sending unit. Cut the spray wand off of a pump style spray bottle and attached a fitting that will screw into sending unit's hole. Put 3 quarts in bottle and pump
I saw another video were they disconnected the crank sensorr , and then crank the Key
I am getting ready to pull the timing chains and guides off. I'm 16 and I dont know what to do put the key hole to the 12 o clock position, then what take the guides and tensioners off and pull the chains and everything off? Please help and try to explain.
I documented the whole process in the playlist
@@TestDontguess I seen what you did man it's just confusing to me I dont have the tool you had to hold it in place and I'm putting new chains on too. Is there a way you can explain it to me that's not to complicated. I'm sorry I'm just a kid that wants my truck back in running shape and it stresses me out because I dont know how to do the chains.
@@TestDontguess I also seen another guy take off the roller followers off, do you have to?
Jeramy Wrestler u can put crankshaft at 6 oclock and make sure the right phaser and left phaser are facing in correct timing direction, if not just turn crankshaft til they line up, then u can go head and remove chains and guides , with no need to remove rollers
@@Barrera00009 I locked the left side out with voice grips the other side I locked but they fell off what can I do man please help?
I bought a kit off of Ebay, Drivers side chain guide was too long, had to use the old one. Good thing it was only broke on Passenger side. Water Pump circumference where the fan screws on was too small, Oil pump that came with it, didn't pump oil, I cranked it over for a bit and never did see a jump on the gauge in the truck . Never buy crap off of Ebay to save a little money, Didn't seize the motor as I had the crankshaft sensor unplugged and didn't push it too far, but definitely a lesson learnt, don't cheap out and order from RockAuto.
Never buy cheap timing stuff.
I'm on my second hour trying to get that damn bolt out.
Just wait until you have to put it back in
I finally got that one bolt out. I busted every knuckle on my hand. I was wiping up more blood than oil.
Yes 🍻🍻🍻 keep me posted how putting it back in goes
Mine has these two short bolts and one really long one. I can't for the life of me figure where the hell the long one goes... Its just way to long to go in any of the three holes
Another video suggested marking the long bolt as well as the hole to remember where that specific bolt came from.
Just pull the front end off. I do it all the time on my 6.0 powerstroke to pull engine. Way faster and so much room.
Why didnt you go high volume and high pressure?
It is....
@@TestDontguess think hes referring to the 360hv made for upgrading the 4 valves which is same bolt up. Nonetheless the 340 is def upgrade.
Question: did you remove ac and heater hoses on pass valve cover?
Also do you think 10:30 or 11:00 is more accurate at crank? Im thinking about eyeballing that one.
Thank you
Did I miss a change in the channel name. Or is that new.
I changed it over the weekend
What if you just pulled the whole motor out
Decided instead of trying to get that second bolt in I'd just go out and find a magic fucken genie in a bottle cause I probably got a better shot at that. Most stupid punch in the dick motor I've worked on and now I need a headlight cause I just put my foot thru mine
If a person takes a very small piece of wire and wraps around the threads of the bolts for the oil pump suction that would hold him while you screw them in once you get them 3/4 away you can just pull on the wire and get it out. Old trick from installing trailer hitches
I thought of that...Makes good sense...Thanks for mentioning it...
@@jerrymccurry9372 that's funny I was thinking about buying a chain and pump and doing that job on my 06 cop car runs like raped ape I hate to lose a valve over a worn-out timing chain guide I don't want to do it I'm getting old dammit
No matter how you try and get to them bolts there is only one word for it SUCKS. I have done them from standing over it and from laying on my back, it's bad no matter what. Out is better than putting them back in. No audio when getting them out or in was likely for all the what the *#!* and many other words. I have done them in trucks and cars it is the same for both.
Do u have a number for questions
No
Good job 👍🍺😎 but ford engines 👎👎👎👎👎🤮.