These are the Oil Pumps to get- 2004-2014 Ford 5.4L 3v engines: High Volume M340HV Pump (60 psi)- amzn.to/2FjRTLi High Volume M360HV Pump (80psi)- amzn.to/2Gvg7DY Original M340 Pump (60 psi)- amzn.to/2tbFLay Original M360 Oil Pump (80 psi)- amzn.to/2FMrV0J How to Install: ua-cam.com/video/ulEJfcQ7HhA/v-deo.html
The '04 F150 mentioned is my truck. It was at 297k and had vct issues along with bad timing chain guides. It has about 305k now and runs like it is almost new. There is no one else who knows more about these 5.4 tritons, keep up the great work!
I must have the exception to the rule. I have a 2006 F150 5.4 3v with 269,000 miles. Bought it with 54,714 miles on it in 2010. Just changed the plugs for the second time a month ago. Running 5W30 Mobil 1 full synthetic. Switched to 5W30 about 5 years ago due my living in the Deep South and dealing with hot more than cold temps and well before I ever saw any of Brian’s videos. I pulled a fifth wheel travel trailer for 5 years until my wife developed cancer and couldn’t travel anymore. Haven’t pulled it in 4 years now. Bought the trailer well after 100,000 miles so the engine wasn’t new by any means. I’ve never been OCD about oil changes and obviously not with plug change out either. Still runs absolutely great and I love it. It does require oil topped off before the change is due but doesn’t smoke and it is absolutely dry underneath. I guess I’m just fortunate.
I have a 2004 F-150 Lariat with the 5.4 that i bought new. Never a problem with this engine (other than the spark plug removal). I now have 198000 miles on it and love it as much today as I did 14 years ago. Oil change every 4000 -5000 miles and use nothing but Motorcraft 5W-20 with the 820S oil filter. Take care of your engine and it will take care of you.
it was the same for my dad, never had a problem with it until 230,000 miles, then it start making a noice in the passenger valve cover it was the timing chain
I don't understand why people talk crap on these motors when I have seen them with 200 thousand plus miles which outlasts a lot of other manufacturers motors out there. Yes I do know all vehicle manufacturers have their own issues with their motors. Awesome channel I have learned a lot from your videos.
Same. I don’t understand the hate. Any timing belted engine requires a timing job at 100k. My 5.4 made it to 158k before it started giving symptoms of needing a timing job.
Just buttoned up my 07 Expedition with the new 360 pump, one word......SWEET! I've had a few vehicles with the 5.4 3v and had to do timing jobs on them, always used the 340, this was my first 360 hv/hp pump and at 225,000 my Expy sounds brand new, I'm very impressed with this pump so far
I was able to purchase this M340HV pump from Lethal Performance online. $170.96 shipped. Just installed it two days ago after new timing kit, phasers, water pump, and lash adjusters. Still putting the engine back together but I’m excited to get it done and running smooth again.
My engine locked up on the highway because of this three weeks after you made this video. Had to put a new engine in that was on BACK ORDER. Going to put this in on it, thanks!
I installed the m360 about 2 years ago in my 04 f150 5.4t. Bolted up no problem with around 30k of great performance. Although I can't see the true oil pressure it's nice knowing it's there. The cast iron backing plate is so important any time your over 2k rpm, just do a little research and you'll see why. And the stock pickup tube is fine although several places the interweb says you need a cobra pickup tube that is maybe 1/8" bigger, Iam not constantly bouncing of the Rev limiter.
I just bought an 05 Expedition with the 5.4 Triton. I got a really good deal because the guy that sold it to me knew it needed plugs and you could hear the timing chain making noise. He was afraid to tackle the job himself so he unloaded it on me for a good price. I'm married with for kids going through nursing school so money's tight so if I want anything nice right now I have to get my hands dirty. Anyway, the vehicle only had 113k miles so I thought it was a good deal. When it came time to change the plugs I ended up breaking every single plug. So I bought the lisle tool which worked awesome on every plug except the last one which was in cylinder 8. The diode broke off which didn't allow the lisle tool to bite so I had to use an angle attachment and drill out the stubborn diode that was left behind. I eventually got all the plugs replaced and it runs good now. I love the torque this engine has. You can hear the timing chain slapping around making that ticking sound so I'm saving up to buy the timing chain kit you recommended. I'm glade I subscribed to your channel. If I hadn't subscribed I would not have found out about the new high volume oil pump available. Since I'll be that deep in the engine anyway I'm going to go ahead and drop another 160 bucks or so and replace the old oil pump with this newer high flow pump. I feel it's worth it because again the vehicle only has 113k miles on it. I keep up good maintenance on my vehicles so I think it will last a long time after making these upgrades. I appreciate what you do. I used to buy a Haynes book every time I bought a new vehicle. Now I just use UA-cam and I have to say your channel is very awesome the way you break everything down.
Have an 06, bought new & have 237,000 miles on it now. Only issues I've ever had were a few misfires which were fixed with new coils/plugs, had throttle position sensor go bad, & replaced alternator, thats it. Run only synthetic oil & change it every 4000 miles. Been best rig I've ever owned. Guess I've been lucky, knock on wood
Dave M yes very lucky! My 07’ started the phaser knock at 100k and broke timing guides at 115k. Changed the phasers and did a complete timing job on it then sold the SOB. Don’t even get me started on the spark plugs or the RH exhaust manifold I changed.. lol But good for you though. It’s nice to see someone getting some miles on them.
Just installed a M340HV pump in a low-mile 5.4 that was replacing a bad motor in my '05 F250. From some reports, it can take a little while to prime during cranking. Mine made full oil pressure within 5 seconds of cranking. I did fill the pump with oil completely right before installing however. Definitely a worthwhile upgrade, and if you are doing a timing job it only adds a few minutes anyways. AND ALWAYS REPLACE THE TENSIONERS! The replacement motor in mine had only 46k and was in excellent condition, but one of the OE tensioners was already starting to have seal failure.
What year was the replacement motor? Ford went through a few iterative upgrades on the tensioners over the years. Mine is a 2014 and at 158,000 miles on it, is just now making the startup rattle (tensioner seal bleed).
Locked out my phasers 2 years ago because of constant rattling and stalling when warm. Could not find a high volume pump at the time, glad there is finally one available!
I've got a 4.6 where the oil pressure gauge has been reading low pressure for a long time. I replaced the sensor (twice) with no improvement. It runs fine and passed a NY computer inspection, so I just thought it was a faulty wire. However, I saw your video on the timing chain guide breaking with fragments blocking the oil pump intake causing low pressure and think that this just might be my problem. Ugh. I've driven it a lot like this and with 240K miles, the engine seems to have a lot of life yet. I believe that in addition to this timing chain guide, I also need to change the phaser units for my cam shafts, that you have so adeptly demonstrated as well. And just when I thought I had a grasp on all of this, a spark plug blows out. I fixed one two years ago with a helicoil, which has worked great. Of course, I saw your video about torquing down the plugs more than spec in order to prevent blowout the day earlier. What timing. Anyway, if, (amid all your work), you are able to read any of this, do you think that the engine is worth doing all this work on and have I caused some serious badness by driving it at least eight thousand miles with the pressure low? Again, aside from these issues, the motor runs awesome. Thank you for ANY input you can give. Much appreciated. And if you haven't heard it enough, your channel just rocks. What a gift to be able to impart all this knowledge to eager minds. Peace.
There is one problem what you have - spring in the pressure valve. It all about GM and Ford oil pump using that design. Not matter, what volume is your oil pump. It is constructive defect. Because oil pump isnt deep cooling by oil as well like on the old smallblock, so spring is coming death first. Sorry for my english:)) Hope it helps
This has been needed for a long long time. I too had talked to melling about this years ago and was also told there was no room. glad they figured something out. The standard practice of making the pump gears taller definitely wont work on a crank driven pump. If this would have been around 5-7 years ago I could have saved a lot of engines.
Hey Brian, Great Videos, Great Channel. I hope you're making some good money 'cause the value you bring to the channel is substantial. I've ordered my Ford Timing Set and Melling M340HV Oil Pump to install in my 2010 5.4L 3V (F150) with 200K miles. Here's my question: I've seen many timing chain tensioners "blown out", both in person, and on UA-cam. I was reluctant to install the 80 psi version (M360HV) for this reason. Perhaps those tensioners have been redesigned and it's no longer a problem? I figured 20% more volume at 60psi is still a significant improvement over stock with less risk over creating "new problems". At any rate, I'd like to hear your comments. Keep up the great work!
I own a construction company and an auto repair facility. I buy used f150 250 and 350 at auction. We use them damn near exclusively and all of them may or do pull 6 to 10k lbs fairly regularly. Most have the 5.4 then v10 and diesel after that. Some have 4.6. I am not nor have I ever been scared of the modular engines. As a former technician I enjoyed and specialized in the fords. Most of these trucks have been ridden hard by construction gius sho dont give a shit cause it ain't theirs. All of them have 70k or more miles. First thing we do is send them to my shop and we yank all plugs and coils and replace with MOTORCRAFT parts ONLY! Even if there is no problems. We change em. These trucks stay in service for us forever. I have a strict maintenance program and make sure my men adhere to it. These are good engines and best work trucks there is. Dont be scared. Take care of it
You’ll hear the timing chain rattle against the tensioner guide until the tensioners build oil pressure and tension the chain. It’ll sound like a rattle for a second or two on cold startup.
Meant to add that the problem comes from the timing chain tensioners bleeding off oil pressure when the engine is off, creating slack on the timing chain.
Melling has been making affordable high quality pumps for years, I run their pumps in every hot rod and race engine I've built, never had a pressure problem. Glad to see somebody stepped up and made a pump for that POS.
Wow, that’s great. I have a 5.4 2 valve in my 1998 F150 it now has 254,000 miles on it. I put every mile on it with the exception of 3.3 miles when I picked it up from the dealership in October 1997. It has a little knocking on the right at start up, but goes away shortly after. Love your videos.
Are you using the stock Motorcraft FL-820s filter? They have a better drain-back valve than most aftermarket filters and typically help with startup noise.
Floor-It-Duh you can also unplug act's and use 15w40 and have zero and I mean zero issues as long as the tensioner gasket isn't blown out or guides in the pickup screen. If you do those three to four things these things become bulletproof and grenade proof. Lol
I personally wouldn't use 15W40 as in my opinion it's a little too thick for these engines due to the small oil galley passages in the heads which can potentially result in oil stagnating thus sludge. That said I've heard people using 10W40 on really high mileage engines with no issues but those were all 2V's I heard of. I personally didn't need to cheap out and unplug the VCT solenoids as I didn't want any CEL lights to be triggered and lastly I have a custom tune because I run aftermarket cams along with a few other modifications. That's me though. If what you got is working for you by all means go for it.
I have a 2003 Expedition with about 179K miles. It is the best snow car I have ever owned. I am not saying the best overall as I don't want to start a war that can't be won by anyone. I thought I wanted to upgrade to a 2006 which has the same frame with a little more HP. Having read about the problems with the 3v engines I am going to keep what I have and live with the slight lack of power. I use time-serts for thread repair. Easy enough to do, I did one in the middle of the National Forest one time on the side of the road in a friends v10. Just carry the parts with me. If you don't have the parts I put 800 miles on a small box truck which blew out a plug traveling. The plug and coil removed its self, I disconnected the injector, the power was still about the same as was the mileage. Got some strange looks puffing in and out of fuel stations. Repaired when I got home, after it reached 268K miles I sent it on its way. I am not saying that running without a functioning plug in the hole is a good thing to do it will get you home with the injector disconnected. You can even leave the broken coil attached The engine doesn't even know that a plug is missing.
I've got A 04 5.4L 3v. 241,000 miles. Have had to do only the timing guides and such on it. Never had I have had a oil pressure problem. But if and when I do I'll upgrade to this pump
The 340hv and 360hv are the same pump. Just the relief valve spring is different. So you won't see a pressure gauge difference until you get above probably 4k rpm. One will max out at 60..other keeps climbing. Since I can go 80mph and the rpms in overdrive are 2200...probably won't relief anyway. That's my take.
Oh man I am having one heck of a time with a 5.4! I installed a new crankshaft, bearings, timing chains, phasers, metal body ratcheting style tensioners, camshafts, and oil pump. the cam journals are a little scored but not bad enough to bleed off all my oil pressure... When it gets up to operating temp the phaser rattle and shake comes and goes, like there is almost enough oil pressure but not quite. Cold start is 60psi+, when hot it is something like 25. I had a brand new oem 4v oil pump on the shelf so that's what I installed but I think that might be my problem... Going to try one of these hv pumps before I take the heads off.
It amazes me that this is the same company that designed the 9 inch rear end and, while the car was disappointing, the mustang II front suspension. Those are two items that are huge in the aftermarket. Now, they build these engines that have so many issues.
I worked for a company that had a fleet of f-150s with 5.4s, they were mostly just run up and down the highway and carried maybe 500 lbs or so although at times they might get really loaded for a short trip. It was not uncommon to see them go 350 K or so. The difference was these were driven by the same fellow most all the time and the oil was checked and changed with the correct oil at 5 or 6 K. There was no bunch of problems with them, in fact lots of them had never had the valve covers or pan off. Put a change to 10w40 in one and that is all she wrote though.
i would say if YOU put 60K or so on it...change them. I put 65K on my 2008 and the plugs brely had any tip left on 2, most were gone. I am not sure how it ran... but it runs really well now.. been collecting the stuff to do upgraded oil pump, timing and phasers, using Brian's vids as a guide.
Nice I plan to do a used truck I bought, I made the mistake of putting dorman phasers, there coming so is the oil pump, you've come a long way, your shop has progressed so much since you started out, thanks for all your vids
Question: I have a 2004 f150 with the 3v 5.4 engine and 140,000 miles. Which of the high volume pumps would you choose (high pressure or standard pressure) and why would you choose one over the other? Why would I use the standard pressure over the high pressure model unless there are problems that are caused by the high pressure, and what issues might there be? Thanks for the video.
I can’t tell you how much I appreciate your videos. I have a question but it requires a little background. I owned a 05 f-150 4x4 King Ranch. I drove it, trouble free to 135,000 and sold it to a friend of mine. I then purchased a 2013 with the eco boost that I believe that motor was the best and most enjoyable pickup engine I’ve ever owned. However, I really loved the 2005 F-150 King Ranch, the most of any truck I’ve ever owned. Part of it is the real saddle leather that, if cared for properly, lasts and looks great forever. Anyway, I sold my 2013 and am picking up a 2007 f-150 King Ranch that is in great shape but, it has 180,000 miles on it that has the knocking phasers and a low psi on the rear cylinders. I’m going to either buy a remanufactured engine and transmission. There are several out there that address the week points in the engine. I’d like to increase the performance, if possible, on the low end torque and if possible mileage. Do you have any recommendations? I know your busy so completely understand if you don’t have time to delve into my question. Keep up the great work and videos.
Another great video. That was so smart of you to work with another distributor to get those higher-volume pumps to Market. It's impressive how you took it upon yourself to do that.
Listen to the man on this one. You 100% want the upgraded oil pump. (Hvm360) with the extra 20%. These 3 valves have design issues directly related to internal oil leaks. Which is the cam bearings phasers timing chain tensioners (big one there) and the cheap factory oil pump itself. Also the broke tensioners get sucked up into the oil pump screen and block oil flow as well. BUY THE BEST AND DONT DO THE JOB TWICE LIKE ME!!!
I used cheap parts when I did it which replaced the cheap parts from the previous owner. Just replaced failed plastic tensioners again with cast iron ratcheting and billet guides. Replaced with m340 pump the 1st time in there. Unfortunately broke a small chunk of a pulley boss on the cover. Thought it would be ok.. But it's loud! And chasing a misfire now. Bad cat maybe... Anyways these mod motors are not for the faint of heart.
Zack Huff yeah ive had to gut the converters on both of the 5.4 3 valves I had to get it to quit misfiring and pick the power back up in it. especially when punching it and needing the extra power on the bypass or elsewhere. if you have live data on a scan tool look up your baro reading and compare it to what its supposed to be. example in Arkansas its 29.2 mine was at like 27 and low 28's so I cited the converter and no power problems anymore. hope this helps
Know why I'm grumpy now... because I have a new M360 and I'm ready to throw it in with everything else...I'd rather have the M360HV!!! Lol thanks for your videos...extremely helpful!!!
Once again, FANTASTIC information Brian. Keep it up. BTW, I love the Ford Tech Makuloco logo you have in the shop. You need to do some shirts and fleeces with the logo on them. I'd buy them ! Cheers A.
A few questions/observations. Amazon states the 360HV does NOT fit the 5.4 3 valve engine. It only lists the Mustang 5.4l engine as the correct engine. Does it actually fit? Also what about the possibility of starving other areas of the engine for oil, such as rod bearings? I know back in the day we used to swap out oil pumps to deliver more oil to the top end, only to spin bearings in the lower end. Thanks again Brian, you have created a legacy of loyal Ford supporters.
Damn, you did mine a year ago....and i already put 20k miles since then...guess ill see you in a year or two. But no problems yet.....besides an exhaust leak from passanger side manifold.
Be careful when you go to deal with that passenger manifold. I got all the bolts out except one, it broke off. I ended up pulling the cylinder head to get the broken bolt out. I did shorty direct fit headers while I was at it. The exhaust leak came back after 1 year. I think the head is warped where it bolts up to manifold/header. I think it needs to be resurfaced on the cylinder head portion to permanently fix this issue.
@@joshmills5248 It is strange how, in my research, it is almost always the right exhaust manifold, and often when inspected,one or more studs are broken. The manifold is deforming on that side.
FordTechMakuloco - excellent, good to know. How do we know if we need the M340HV or M360HV though? Higher pressure for high milage vehicles? Or is it model-year specific?
Well...thats the cleanest I've seen you in a video. Spent a lot of time on your videos. R/R timing stuff, cam phasers...yada, yada. Finally shelled out for a new rebuild motor. Gonna drive it until it craps out. Thanks for all the help.
Super cool, very interested. I got the XLT 2010 5.4 WITH no issue at all. Bought it a year ago,runs great. I don't hot rod it, I wanted to last also at the same time if I got to get up and go I want to get the hell out of there so making little upgrades like this would be worth in the long run
Well dang! Wish I could have put this in when I did the timing set, lash adjusters, and roller followers on my '06 GT in late '16. I installed the M340 at least. Just broke 200k a few months ago. I also took your advice and switched over to 5w-30.
Zach Dresser same boat as you brother. Just put mine on my bench to put in this coming weekend and now I find out this new one is the beeknees. Looks like I'm going to have 2 oil pumps lol
Excellent. I always look forward to more videos on the old modulars. I have both the 4.6 and 5.4. Just pulled my 4.6 DOHC to have a look in the oil pan , replace rocker arms and lash adjusters. Keep up the good work.
As others have said you are awesome man, been building and repairing my own engines for over 35 years but this VCT 5.4 had me a bit concerned, first VCT I have worked on, your videos make it no problem so TY! I have a High Mileage f 150 (268k) would you go with the M360HV or M340HV in this case? I Have picked up the OEM timing setup off Amazon you recommended, new OEM VCT solenoids but am also looking at Mellings metal cam tensioner upgrade do you have any thoughts on those as well? Also while I am in there should I just go ahead and replace all the followers and adjusters? Sorry for all the questions but want to do this right the first time and money is really not an issue, since this truck is my rolling office and I am a construction company owner.
FordTechMakuloco Hello Brian. I’m still confuse about which pump to install. My truck it’s a 2006 5.4 3v I’m in the process of timing chain kit and phasers. Would you be kind to guide me how to proceed. Which aftermarket kit and phasers to install. I heard cloyed. My truck is in the shop now and I want them to do it right. I’ll appreciate your prompt answer.
Thanks for putting this info out there. You have helped me a ton, as I just bought a 2005 F150. I am doing the timing this week and am pretty sure this will resurrect this truck. You have saved me a bunch of time… much appreciated!
Thanks for the step by step videos. Invaluable to us Triton owners. I want to know you opinion on Ford's upgraded oil pump M-6600-F46 from Ford Performance. It's also high pressure/high volume similar to M360HV. Also, what pump would you put in Your Triton 5.4 3V. 60psi or 80psi? Which one would you get. Thanks in advance.
Great job man, I am glad you are doing this for the Ford community. I like how you dig into the problem and find a solution rather than just fixin/changing the broken part. Keep up the great work
You deserve another subscriber man and that’s me. I have an 2004 f150 4.6 v8 and the only reason I keep it it’s because the 4.6 engine and 2valves not 3v otherwise I was get another truck. Anytime I have to fix something you videos are very helpful. I hope in one day you have to deal with one of 5.0 coyote engine having that ticking/knocking noise Because I have a problem and most of Ford dealers here in Georgia they don’t want to help too much.Thanks and keep up the good work as always.
5W-20, Geez that's thin. We run A3 0W-40 at our dealership for both 5.4L 3V and 4V. Only see about 3 falcons a year with the 3V, luckily never snapped the spark plugs in them. 🤞
Matthew H didn't know 5w40 existed, I put 1 qt of synthetic lucas oil stabilizer in with my oil changes seems to work well, nervous about going thicker than 5w30 here in Chicago with the cold winter temps we get.
My truck just hit 100,000 miles 4.6 L just as a maintenance procedure I went ahead and changed the oil pump with the M340hV, VCT solonoids, cam phasers, chains the whole timing job. I wasn’t having any problems I just wanted it done. My question is with this new pump should I switch to 5W 30 now or leave it at 5w20.
I put every thing in like you said, everything went very well. I put in the upgrade oil pump, the piece of crap broke at less than 20k miles. It was running perfectly, good mileage, regular oil change, good oil. Left us setting waiting for a tow truck. Probably go with the more expensive Napa pump, haven't decided yet. Otherwise you put out excellent videos.
Just depends. Need to see if yours has the Guggenheim valve barrier or not. Your truck will have a serial number stamped on the frame in the rear above the spare tire. If it ends in number 1-6 it has one. If it ends in 7-9 or has 2 consecutive 0's then it does not. If getting above the spare is too difficult you can always run by your local shop and have them look. Most shops will be familiar with this on the Ford and should be able to help.
Googling shows the M176 for the 2v has a 13/16" inlet and the M340/360 have 15/16" inlets. Pickup tubes appear to be sized to match pump inlets - not sure if the contours are the same.
I haven’t had any of the timing problems with my 120,000 mile ‘08 yet, I was considering selling it but with the price of new trucks I am going to by the parts to have ready when the time comes. On a side note My serpentine belt had become really loud, I thought the plastic idler had failed but it is fine, it turns out the noise was coming from the gator pattern on the Goodyear Gatorback belt running over the pulleys. I put a Motorcraft belt on, now all is quiet
Had the same question since Amazon said part does not fit my truck. Melling list the 360HV for later engines too. Glad you cleared that up. Will order the 360HV. So nice to have your videos with tried is and tips
Thats weird, we've got a expedition with 200,000 miles on it, no problems ever, changed the plugs myself with no problems, it's got an cold air intake, 3 inch cat back,hypertec programmer, and a shift kit, 3 inch lift, runs great
I don't like plastic tensioners, so I bought Melling cast iron ratcheting type BT402 and BT403 . Good choice? I have a 2005 Mustang 4.6 3v and a 2007 TownCar 4.6 2v
Sigh. Dropped a torx t27 in it when changing the vct. You served me well until 248k, but I'm saying goodbye. You will be missed. Good thing I like my coyote so much.
I have a 2006 F150 5.4L with 150k miles. I bought a M360HV from Rockauto, and my mechanic said it would not lay flat on the block. Rockauto refused to return it as defective because it isn't listed to fit my vehicle. Melling also doesn't list the M360HV for my vehicle. I'm stuck with a possibly defective pump. Lesson learned: Do your own research.
I installed one of these 360HV's in my 08 5.4 3V. I have ungodly oil pressure when cold. I'm thinking the 340HV would have been a better idea, or even the Melling stock replacement with the cast iron backing plate.
Looking for a recommendation -- if I do a timing job on a 2006 F150 with 200K miles and planning to put in a Melling M360HV pump. Should I still consider adding camshaft lockout kits to avoid potential future issues with camshaft phaser noise, or should I consider Melling M360HV pump as generally fixing that issue, and just run the phasers as intended?
@@FordTechMakuloco Just for clarification, I understand that you would recommend using the M340HV (60 psi max) over the M360HV (80 psi max) in most cases for an F150 2004-14 3V? Are there any exception cases where the M360HV might be desirable for the F150?
Thank u so far I've got ford timing kit I ordered this oil pump not what's the best gaskets to put it all back together I wanna bulletproof my 5.4. It's in a Eddie beaur el expedition that's deserves to keep going
All my best cars I would put a racing oil pump in. I also had one special car I had a electric pre lube pump installed in. The engine lasted 300,000 miles.
These are the Oil Pumps to get-
2004-2014 Ford 5.4L 3v engines:
High Volume M340HV Pump (60 psi)-
amzn.to/2FjRTLi
High Volume M360HV Pump (80psi)-
amzn.to/2Gvg7DY
Original M340 Pump (60 psi)-
amzn.to/2tbFLay
Original M360 Oil Pump (80 psi)-
amzn.to/2FMrV0J How to Install:
ua-cam.com/video/ulEJfcQ7HhA/v-deo.html
FordTechMakuloco Thank You For The Link 😎👍🏼
Already out of stock! Noooooo
Should I use the 340HV or the 360HV in my 05 F150?
Is that for all 5.4 3v ,no matter the year, we hv a 2010 fx4
FordTechMakuloco What about for the 2-valve?
The '04 F150 mentioned is my truck. It was at 297k and had vct issues along with bad timing chain guides. It has about 305k now and runs like it is almost new. There is no one else who knows more about these 5.4 tritons, keep up the great work!
What did that cost you?
@@chriscall3425 A lot.
Were the timing chain guides original? How many miles now?
I must have the exception to the rule. I have a 2006 F150 5.4 3v with 269,000 miles. Bought it with 54,714 miles on it in 2010. Just changed the plugs for the second time a month ago. Running 5W30 Mobil 1 full synthetic. Switched to 5W30 about 5 years ago due my living in the Deep South and dealing with hot more than cold temps and well before I ever saw any of Brian’s videos. I pulled a fifth wheel travel trailer for 5 years until my wife developed cancer and couldn’t travel anymore. Haven’t pulled it in 4 years now. Bought the trailer well after 100,000 miles so the engine wasn’t new by any means.
I’ve never been OCD about oil changes and obviously not with plug change out either. Still runs absolutely great and I love it. It does require oil topped off before the change is due but doesn’t smoke and it is absolutely dry underneath. I guess I’m just fortunate.
I have a 2004 F-150 Lariat with the 5.4 that i bought new. Never a problem with this engine (other than the spark plug removal). I now have 198000 miles on it and love it as much today as I did 14 years ago. Oil change every 4000 -5000 miles and use nothing but Motorcraft 5W-20 with the 820S oil filter. Take care of your engine and it will take care of you.
How’s the truck now?
Same I have a 5.4 king ranch 05
it was the same for my dad, never had a problem with it until 230,000 miles, then it start making a noice in the passenger valve cover it was the timing chain
Follow up, his engine died and he no longer drives the truck.
@@thenadonation2664 Do you know him or are you just assuming?
I don't understand why people talk crap on these motors when I have seen them with 200 thousand plus miles which outlasts a lot of other manufacturers motors out there. Yes I do know all vehicle manufacturers have their own issues with their motors. Awesome channel I have learned a lot from your videos.
Same. I don’t understand the hate. Any timing belted engine requires a timing job at 100k. My 5.4 made it to 158k before it started giving symptoms of needing a timing job.
Awesome video - keep these 5.4 3 v videos coming man
Just buttoned up my 07 Expedition with the new 360 pump, one word......SWEET! I've had a few vehicles with the 5.4 3v and had to do timing jobs on them, always used the 340, this was my first 360 hv/hp pump and at 225,000 my Expy sounds brand new, I'm very impressed with this pump so far
I was able to purchase this M340HV pump from Lethal Performance online. $170.96 shipped. Just installed it two days ago after new timing kit, phasers, water pump, and lash adjusters.
Still putting the engine back together but I’m excited to get it done and running smooth again.
Hi Keith, how is your engine performing with this new pump? have you noticed any changes?
how;s the truck running now?
Did you ever get it running smoothly again
@PRN 123D Do you know why it blew up?
Keith blew the engine up.
My engine locked up on the highway because of this three weeks after you made this video. Had to put a new engine in that was on BACK ORDER. Going to put this in on it, thanks!
I installed the m360 about 2 years ago in my 04 f150 5.4t. Bolted up no problem with around 30k of great performance. Although I can't see the true oil pressure it's nice knowing it's there. The cast iron backing plate is so important any time your over 2k rpm, just do a little research and you'll see why. And the stock pickup tube is fine although several places the interweb says you need a cobra pickup tube that is maybe 1/8" bigger, Iam not constantly bouncing of the Rev limiter.
I just bought an 05 Expedition with the 5.4 Triton. I got a really good deal because the guy that sold it to me knew it needed plugs and you could hear the timing chain making noise. He was afraid to tackle the job himself so he unloaded it on me for a good price. I'm married with for kids going through nursing school so money's tight so if I want anything nice right now I have to get my hands dirty. Anyway, the vehicle only had 113k miles so I thought it was a good deal. When it came time to change the plugs I ended up breaking every single plug. So I bought the lisle tool which worked awesome on every plug except the last one which was in cylinder 8. The diode broke off which didn't allow the lisle tool to bite so I had to use an angle attachment and drill out the stubborn diode that was left behind. I eventually got all the plugs replaced and it runs good now. I love the torque this engine has. You can hear the timing chain slapping around making that ticking sound so I'm saving up to buy the timing chain kit you recommended. I'm glade I subscribed to your channel. If I hadn't subscribed I would not have found out about the new high volume oil pump available. Since I'll be that deep in the engine anyway I'm going to go ahead and drop another 160 bucks or so and replace the old oil pump with this newer high flow pump. I feel it's worth it because again the vehicle only has 113k miles on it. I keep up good maintenance on my vehicles so I think it will last a long time after making these upgrades. I appreciate what you do. I used to buy a Haynes book every time I bought a new vehicle. Now I just use UA-cam and I have to say your channel is very awesome the way you break everything down.
Michael Pritt ~ would very much like to hear an update on your project, sir. Hopefully all went well & you’re still enjoying that bargain...!
Man...this channel was made for you! I am afraid to change my plugs but when I do I will follow the videos here on the subject.
Have an 06, bought new & have 237,000 miles on it now. Only issues I've ever had were a few misfires which were fixed with new coils/plugs, had throttle position sensor go bad, & replaced alternator, thats it. Run only synthetic oil & change it every 4000 miles. Been best rig I've ever owned. Guess I've been lucky, knock on wood
Dave M yes very lucky! My 07’ started the phaser knock at 100k and broke timing guides at 115k. Changed the phasers and did a complete timing job on it then sold the SOB. Don’t even get me started on the spark plugs or the RH exhaust manifold I changed.. lol
But good for you though. It’s nice to see someone getting some miles on them.
why the right side manifold? my had both done at 130k and I found in the records that came with it that the right had already been done at 88k wtf?!
Just installed a M340HV pump in a low-mile 5.4 that was replacing a bad motor in my '05 F250. From some reports, it can take a little while to prime during cranking. Mine made full oil pressure within 5 seconds of cranking. I did fill the pump with oil completely right before installing however. Definitely a worthwhile upgrade, and if you are doing a timing job it only adds a few minutes anyways. AND ALWAYS REPLACE THE TENSIONERS! The replacement motor in mine had only 46k and was in excellent condition, but one of the OE tensioners was already starting to have seal failure.
What year was the replacement motor? Ford went through a few iterative upgrades on the tensioners over the years. Mine is a 2014 and at 158,000 miles on it, is just now making the startup rattle (tensioner seal bleed).
Locked out my phasers 2 years ago because of constant rattling and stalling when warm. Could not find a high volume pump at the time, glad there is finally one available!
I've got a 4.6 where the oil pressure gauge has been reading low pressure for a long time. I replaced the sensor (twice) with no improvement. It runs fine and passed a NY computer inspection, so I just thought it was a faulty wire. However, I saw your video on the timing chain guide breaking with fragments blocking the oil pump intake causing low pressure and think that this just might be my problem. Ugh.
I've driven it a lot like this and with 240K miles, the engine seems to have a lot of life yet. I believe that in addition to this timing chain guide, I also need to change the phaser units for my cam shafts, that you have so adeptly demonstrated as well.
And just when I thought I had a grasp on all of this, a spark plug blows out. I fixed one two years ago with a helicoil, which has worked great. Of course, I saw your video about torquing down the plugs more than spec in order to prevent blowout the day earlier. What timing.
Anyway, if, (amid all your work), you are able to read any of this, do you think that the engine is worth doing all this work on and have I caused some serious badness by driving it at least eight thousand miles with the pressure low? Again, aside from these issues, the motor runs awesome. Thank you for ANY input you can give. Much appreciated. And if you haven't heard it enough, your channel just rocks. What a gift to be able to impart all this knowledge to eager minds. Peace.
This is one of the best channels around!
For sure...
There is one problem what you have - spring in the pressure valve. It all about GM and Ford oil pump using that design. Not matter, what volume is your oil pump. It is constructive defect. Because oil pump isnt deep cooling by oil as well like on the old smallblock, so spring is coming death first.
Sorry for my english:)) Hope it helps
I was on the fence on these engines I'm definitely pulling the trigger on one now that I've seen you do countless repairs on them
Underated channel
I just got a 350k mile 5.4 3V, fully rebuilt and got one of these for more oil pressure at low rpm especially
I found out cause of u thanks bro!my next upgrade to my 2009 platinum Super crew 4*4 198.000 runs great
Great info on the new pump. And who is disliking this video for any reason? Just crazy. Keep up the good work FordTechMakuloco!
This has been needed for a long long time. I too had talked to melling about this years ago and was also told there was no room. glad they figured something out. The standard practice of making the pump gears taller definitely wont work on a crank driven pump. If this would have been around 5-7 years ago I could have saved a lot of engines.
Hey Brian, Great Videos, Great Channel. I hope you're making some good money 'cause the value you bring to the channel is substantial.
I've ordered my Ford Timing Set and Melling M340HV Oil Pump to install in my 2010 5.4L 3V (F150) with 200K miles.
Here's my question: I've seen many timing chain tensioners "blown out", both in person, and on UA-cam. I was reluctant to install the 80 psi version (M360HV) for this reason. Perhaps those tensioners have been redesigned and it's no longer a problem? I figured 20% more volume at 60psi is still a significant improvement over stock with less risk over creating "new problems". At any rate, I'd like to hear your comments.
Keep up the great work!
I own a construction company and an auto repair facility. I buy used f150 250 and 350 at auction. We use them damn near exclusively and all of them may or do pull 6 to 10k lbs fairly regularly. Most have the 5.4 then v10 and diesel after that. Some have 4.6. I am not nor have I ever been scared of the modular engines. As a former technician I enjoyed and specialized in the fords. Most of these trucks have been ridden hard by construction gius sho dont give a shit cause it ain't theirs. All of them have 70k or more miles. First thing we do is send them to my shop and we yank all plugs and coils and replace with MOTORCRAFT parts ONLY! Even if there is no problems. We change em. These trucks stay in service for us forever. I have a strict maintenance program and make sure my men adhere to it. These are good engines and best work trucks there is. Dont be scared. Take care of it
Perfect "timing" I am diving into my 04 next weekend for a full timing job.
How do you know you need a timing job?
You’ll hear the timing chain rattle against the tensioner guide until the tensioners build oil pressure and tension the chain. It’ll sound like a rattle for a second or two on cold startup.
Meant to add that the problem comes from the timing chain tensioners bleeding off oil pressure when the engine is off, creating slack on the timing chain.
Lots of those trucks out there without major issues.
My ‘14 Navigator made it to 158k miles before giving tensioner bleed symptoms. Runs smooth as silk otherwise.
Melling has been making affordable high quality pumps for years, I run their pumps in every hot rod and race engine I've built, never had a pressure problem. Glad to see somebody stepped up and made a pump for that POS.
Wow, that’s great. I have a 5.4 2 valve in my 1998 F150 it now has 254,000 miles on it. I put every mile on it with the exception of 3.3 miles when I picked it up from the dealership in October 1997. It has a little knocking on the right at start up, but goes away shortly after. Love your videos.
Are you using the stock Motorcraft FL-820s filter? They have a better drain-back valve than most aftermarket filters and typically help with startup noise.
He's right about the oil filters.
Yours is just tired,probably a little wear on the piston skirts
Put one in my truck. Well worth it. Also did cam lockouts. I've had no issues since.
Floor-It-Duh you can also unplug act's and use 15w40 and have zero and I mean zero issues as long as the tensioner gasket isn't blown out or guides in the pickup screen. If you do those three to four things these things become bulletproof and grenade proof. Lol
Vct's*
I personally wouldn't use 15W40 as in my opinion it's a little too thick for these engines due to the small oil galley passages in the heads which can potentially result in oil stagnating thus sludge. That said I've heard people using 10W40 on really high mileage engines with no issues but those were all 2V's I heard of. I personally didn't need to cheap out and unplug the VCT solenoids as I didn't want any CEL lights to be triggered and lastly I have a custom tune because I run aftermarket cams along with a few other modifications. That's me though. If what you got is working for you by all means go for it.
Floor-It-Duh which cam lockouts?
I have a 2003 Expedition with about 179K miles. It is the best snow car I have ever owned. I am not saying the best overall as I don't want to start a war that can't be won by anyone. I thought I wanted to upgrade to a 2006 which has the same frame with a little more HP. Having read about the problems with the 3v engines I am going to keep what I have and live with the slight lack of power. I use time-serts for thread repair. Easy enough to do, I did one in the middle of the National Forest one time on the side of the road in a friends v10. Just carry the parts with me. If you don't have the parts I put 800 miles on a small box truck which blew out a plug traveling. The plug and coil removed its self, I disconnected the injector, the power was still about the same as was the mileage. Got some strange looks puffing in and out of fuel stations. Repaired when I got home, after it reached 268K miles I sent it on its way. I am not saying that running without a functioning plug in the hole is a good thing to do it will get you home with the injector disconnected. You can even leave the broken coil attached The engine doesn't even know that a plug is missing.
I have the 5.4 3v & best upgrade is the 5.0 coyote engine swap !!
No, 390 FE
I've got A 04 5.4L 3v. 241,000 miles. Have had to do only the timing guides and such on it. Never had I have had a oil pressure problem. But if and when I do I'll upgrade to this pump
The 340hv and 360hv are the same pump. Just the relief valve spring is different. So you won't see a pressure gauge difference until you get above probably 4k rpm. One will max out at 60..other keeps climbing. Since I can go 80mph and the rpms in overdrive are 2200...probably won't relief anyway. That's my take.
Oh man I am having one heck of a time with a 5.4! I installed a new crankshaft, bearings, timing chains, phasers, metal body ratcheting style tensioners, camshafts, and oil pump. the cam journals are a little scored but not bad enough to bleed off all my oil pressure... When it gets up to operating temp the phaser rattle and shake comes and goes, like there is almost enough oil pressure but not quite. Cold start is 60psi+, when hot it is something like 25. I had a brand new oem 4v oil pump on the shelf so that's what I installed but I think that might be my problem... Going to try one of these hv pumps before I take the heads off.
Did you install a high volume pump since you posted this comment?
Thanks for well information.
My truck has 90k miles and no noise from the engine. Do you think I only need M360HV and gasket?
It amazes me that this is the same company that designed the 9 inch rear end and, while the car was disappointing, the mustang II front suspension. Those are two items that are huge in the aftermarket. Now, they build these engines that have so many issues.
Hey Brian...good to know, thx. Couldn't help but notice your busted knuckles, reassuring to know even pros get that!
My 99 F-350 (gas) 5,4L 3Valve with 265,000 miles on it and still going strong, the only issue has been a fuel pump - engine still runs strong.
Scott Lincoln
1999 did have the 3 valve 5.4 yet. That's why it's working good for you yet ;-)
My 2008 5.4 3v is all original with 250k miles and counting
I worked for a company that had a fleet of f-150s with 5.4s, they were mostly just run up and down the highway and carried maybe 500 lbs or so although at times they might get really loaded for a short trip. It was not uncommon to see them go 350 K or so. The difference was these were driven by the same fellow most all the time and the oil was checked and changed with the correct oil at 5 or 6 K. There was no bunch of problems with them, in fact lots of them had never had the valve covers or pan off. Put a change to 10w40 in one and that is all she wrote though.
Rich Lininger 347 000 miles on mine been a great motor
Roy, you said they changed to 10W-40 and the motors blew up?
i would say if YOU put 60K or so on it...change them. I put 65K on my 2008 and the plugs brely had any tip left on 2, most were gone. I am not sure how it ran... but it runs really well now.. been collecting the stuff to do upgraded oil pump, timing and phasers, using Brian's vids as a guide.
Earl Glase whats yours parts list look like?
Nice I plan to do a used truck I bought, I made the mistake of putting dorman phasers, there coming so is the oil pump, you've come a long way, your shop has progressed so much since you started out, thanks for all your vids
Question: I have a 2004 f150 with the 3v 5.4 engine and 140,000 miles. Which of the high volume pumps would you choose (high pressure or standard pressure) and why would you choose one over the other? Why would I use the standard pressure over the high pressure model unless there are problems that are caused by the high pressure, and what issues might there be?
Thanks for the video.
I can’t tell you how much I appreciate your videos. I have a question but it requires a little background.
I owned a 05 f-150 4x4 King Ranch. I drove it, trouble free to 135,000 and sold it to a friend of mine. I then purchased a 2013 with the eco boost that I believe that motor was the best and most enjoyable pickup engine I’ve ever owned. However, I really loved the 2005 F-150 King Ranch, the most of any truck I’ve ever owned. Part of it is the real saddle leather that, if cared for properly, lasts and looks great forever.
Anyway, I sold my 2013 and am picking up a 2007 f-150 King Ranch that is in great shape but, it has 180,000 miles on it that has the knocking phasers and a low psi on the rear cylinders.
I’m going to either buy a remanufactured engine and transmission. There are several out there that address the week points in the engine. I’d like to increase the performance, if possible, on the low end torque and if possible mileage. Do you have any recommendations?
I know your busy so completely understand if you don’t have time to delve into my question.
Keep up the great work and videos.
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and experience to help out others!! Keep up the amazing videos.
Another great video. That was so smart of you to work with another distributor to get those higher-volume pumps to Market. It's impressive how you took it upon yourself to do that.
Listen to the man on this one. You 100% want the upgraded oil pump. (Hvm360) with the extra 20%. These 3 valves have design issues directly related to internal oil leaks. Which is the cam bearings phasers timing chain tensioners (big one there) and the cheap factory oil pump itself. Also the broke tensioners get sucked up into the oil pump screen and block oil flow as well. BUY THE BEST AND DONT DO THE JOB TWICE LIKE ME!!!
I used cheap parts when I did it which replaced the cheap parts from the previous owner. Just replaced failed plastic tensioners again with cast iron ratcheting and billet guides. Replaced with m340 pump the 1st time in there. Unfortunately broke a small chunk of a pulley boss on the cover. Thought it would be ok.. But it's loud! And chasing a misfire now. Bad cat maybe... Anyways these mod motors are not for the faint of heart.
Zack Huff yeah ive had to gut the converters on both of the 5.4 3 valves I had to get it to quit misfiring and pick the power back up in it. especially when punching it and needing the extra power on the bypass or elsewhere. if you have live data on a scan tool look up your baro reading and compare it to what its supposed to be. example in Arkansas its 29.2 mine was at like 27 and low 28's so I cited the converter and no power problems anymore. hope this helps
Know why I'm grumpy now... because I have a new M360 and I'm ready to throw it in with everything else...I'd rather have the M360HV!!! Lol thanks for your videos...extremely helpful!!!
Once again, FANTASTIC information Brian. Keep it up. BTW, I love the Ford Tech Makuloco logo you have in the shop. You need to do some shirts and fleeces with the logo on them. I'd buy them ! Cheers A.
A few questions/observations. Amazon states the 360HV does NOT fit the 5.4 3 valve engine. It only lists the Mustang 5.4l engine as the correct engine. Does it actually fit? Also what about the possibility of starving other areas of the engine for oil, such as rod bearings? I know back in the day we used to swap out oil pumps to deliver more oil to the top end, only to spin bearings in the lower end. Thanks again Brian, you have created a legacy of loyal Ford supporters.
Damn, you did mine a year ago....and i already put 20k miles since then...guess ill see you in a year or two. But no problems yet.....besides an exhaust leak from passanger side manifold.
Be careful when you go to deal with that passenger manifold. I got all the bolts out except one, it broke off. I ended up pulling the cylinder head to get the broken bolt out. I did shorty direct fit headers while I was at it. The exhaust leak came back after 1 year. I think the head is warped where it bolts up to manifold/header. I think it needs to be resurfaced on the cylinder head portion to permanently fix this issue.
@@joshmills5248 It is strange how, in my research, it is almost always the right exhaust manifold, and often when inspected,one or more studs are broken. The manifold is deforming on that side.
Awesome tips as usual. Impressed with any tech who not agree with how manufacturers are doing things and want to improve designs...
Hey Brian, why not sell them yourself? I’d love to see the profits go back to you whose channel has helped me out countless times with these 5.4s.
I actually make a profit off of all my amazon links and Amazon usually has the best price and shipping speeds so its win win.
FordTechMakuloco - excellent, good to know. How do we know if we need the M340HV or M360HV though? Higher pressure for high milage vehicles? Or is it model-year specific?
Colin Watt did you go w 340 or 360? Hows it working for you?
Well...thats the cleanest I've seen you in a video.
Spent a lot of time on your videos. R/R timing stuff, cam phasers...yada, yada. Finally shelled out for a new rebuild motor. Gonna drive it until it craps out.
Thanks for all the help.
Nice info. I hope soon you make a video on installing one of these new oil pumps .
I have a video on the install it is the same for the new HV pumps. Links are listed in the video description.
Super cool, very interested. I got the XLT 2010 5.4 WITH no issue at all. Bought it a year ago,runs great. I don't hot rod it, I wanted to last also at the same time if I got to get up and go I want to get the hell out of there so making little upgrades like this would be worth in the long run
Well dang! Wish I could have put this in when I did the timing set, lash adjusters, and roller followers on my '06 GT in late '16. I installed the M340 at least. Just broke 200k a few months ago. I also took your advice and switched over to 5w-30.
Even though I have a hair across my ass over Ford you still make good videos and are very informative thanks .
J Patt recently purchased 04 f150. Many issues. But DAMM it looks good. Bout to install 5.7 vortex an 4l80e. Bet that will get it outta my driveway.
William Sprinkle Sr good luck if you're really going to attempt that I hope it works out well for u !
I’m buying one of these pumps for my 08’ Expedition. Just hit 175k miles.
Good timing! I’ll be returning the M360 I just bought to get one of these
Zach Dresser same boat as you brother. Just put mine on my bench to put in this coming weekend and now I find out this new one is the beeknees. Looks like I'm going to have 2 oil pumps lol
@@joshualester6952 what year is your f-150?
Good job ! Thanks for the heads up ! I don't own one of these "problem" engines but I love getting new intel on every engine I can.
HI, I have a 2006 F-150 5.4 v5 Triton, which M340HV or M360HV is the most recommended oil pump.
Thank you
Im just assuming 340hv
Excellent. I always look forward to more videos on the old modulars. I have both the 4.6 and 5.4. Just pulled my 4.6 DOHC to have a look in the oil pan , replace rocker arms and lash adjusters. Keep up the good work.
Should 5w30 oil still be used with the higher volume pump?
Yes
You are the Saint of Fords
As others have said you are awesome man, been building and repairing my own engines for over 35 years but this VCT 5.4 had me a bit concerned, first VCT I have worked on, your videos make it no problem so TY! I have a High Mileage f 150 (268k) would you go with the M360HV or M340HV in this case? I Have picked up the OEM timing setup off Amazon you recommended, new OEM VCT solenoids but am also looking at Mellings metal cam tensioner upgrade do you have any thoughts on those as well? Also while I am in there should I just go ahead and replace all the followers and adjusters? Sorry for all the questions but want to do this right the first time and money is really not an issue, since this truck is my rolling office and I am a construction company owner.
Great video I own since new a 2002 F150 XLT 5.4 Triton 4x4 with 4 speed auto 135,000 miles
Would you recommend installing one of these pumps in an '06 F150 with 119k miles even if it isn't having an issues? Thanks for the videos!
Yes if you are in there for any reason.
FordTechMakuloco Hello Brian. I’m still confuse about which pump to install. My truck it’s a 2006 5.4 3v I’m in the process of timing chain kit and phasers. Would you be kind to guide me how to proceed. Which aftermarket kit and phasers to install. I heard cloyed. My truck is in the shop now and I want them to do it right. I’ll appreciate your prompt answer.
FordTechMakuloco should I do the water pump too?
Thanks for putting this info out there. You have helped me a ton, as I just bought a 2005 F150. I am doing the timing this week and am pretty sure this will resurrect this truck. You have saved me a bunch of time… much appreciated!
Hey man, as a guy currently rebuilding an entire 3V that grenaded 80miles out of the dealership, how’d it turn out?
Thanks for the step by step videos. Invaluable to us Triton owners. I want to know you opinion on Ford's upgraded oil pump M-6600-F46 from Ford Performance. It's also high pressure/high volume similar to M360HV. Also, what pump would you put in Your Triton 5.4 3V. 60psi or 80psi? Which one would you get. Thanks in advance.
M360HV only, I won't buy anything from Ford Racing Performance.
@@FordTechMakuloco why is that? Isn't it an original Ford product?
@WARSAW777 yeah. Idk I've heard good things about the Ford Racing timing chain kit so 🤷♂️
Great job man, I am glad you are doing this for the Ford community. I like how you dig into the problem and find a solution rather than just fixin/changing the broken part. Keep up the great work
Appreciate the info and knowledge 👏👏👍👍
Very valuable info for F-150 owners Thanks man👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Video on how to change one out?
ua-cam.com/video/ulEJfcQ7HhA/v-deo.html
He has one already. Really a full teardown but it is in there.
Fantastic! Thank you!
Wish this video was out 10 days earlier. I just did the timing chain kit with the m360 and new vct solenoids.
Great video, what do you recommend for phasers what brand is better or what has worked better for you..
Only buy the latest Ford unit or you will have problems, see Here- amzn.to/2Ge4Og5
You deserve another subscriber man and that’s me. I have an 2004 f150 4.6 v8 and the only reason I keep it it’s because the 4.6 engine and 2valves not 3v otherwise I was get another truck. Anytime I have to fix something you videos are very helpful. I hope in one day you have to deal with one of 5.0 coyote engine having that ticking/knocking noise Because I have a problem and most of Ford dealers here in Georgia they don’t want to help too much.Thanks and keep up the good work as always.
Interesting how the American 5.4L have so many problems, but here in Australia only real problem is spark plugs, otherwise there a solid motor.
I switched to using 5-30w because of examples like yours Andrew
yea 5w-20 oil sucks. just the manufactures trying to squeak out a tiny bit more MPG for the government. 5w-40 is even better.
5W-20, Geez that's thin. We run A3 0W-40 at our dealership for both 5.4L 3V and 4V. Only see about 3 falcons a year with the 3V, luckily never snapped the spark plugs in them. 🤞
Matthew H didn't know 5w40 existed, I put 1 qt of synthetic lucas oil stabilizer in with my oil changes seems to work well, nervous about going thicker than 5w30 here in Chicago with the cold winter temps we get.
Been putting 5w40 rotella in my 04 since 2012 with no issues, changed every 5k miles.
My truck just hit 100,000 miles 4.6 L just as a maintenance procedure I went ahead and changed the oil pump with the M340hV, VCT solonoids, cam phasers, chains the whole timing job. I wasn’t having any problems I just wanted it done. My question is with this new pump should I switch to 5W 30 now or leave it at 5w20.
wil this work on the 5.4 2 valve triton engine
I put every thing in like you said, everything went very well. I put in the upgrade oil pump, the piece of crap broke at less than 20k miles. It was running perfectly, good mileage, regular oil change, good oil. Left us setting waiting for a tow truck. Probably go with the more expensive Napa pump, haven't decided yet. Otherwise you put out excellent videos.
Yea if you don’t drop the pan and clean the pick up out doesn’t matter how much oil pressure your pump makes
How do you know if you need the 340 or 360? Does it matter or do they go to a specific year or something?
Just depends. Need to see if yours has the Guggenheim valve barrier or not. Your truck will have a serial number stamped on the frame in the rear above the spare tire. If it ends in number 1-6 it has one. If it ends in 7-9 or has 2 consecutive 0's then it does not. If getting above the spare is too difficult you can always run by your local shop and have them look. Most shops will be familiar with this on the Ford and should be able to help.
@@Lordhumongus Unless I'm missing something this info is completely incomplete = If it has a Guggenheim do you use the 340 or 360??
Did anyone watch the vid. FTM said "if for any reason your in your 5.4 3 valve you need to drop 1 of these in" m360. Maybe I'm wrong
Man I cant wait to do the timing set on my truck.. get this thing in therer!
would the 340 or 360 fit a 2v 5.4 with the 3v pickup tube?
They all fit the 2v engine, no pickup tube modification needed.
Thanks, I was curious why the 2v and 3v plums
had different part numbers. Is it a pressure difference?
Googling shows the M176 for the 2v has a 13/16" inlet and the M340/360 have 15/16" inlets. Pickup tubes appear to be sized to match pump inlets - not sure if the contours are the same.
I haven’t had any of the timing problems with my 120,000 mile ‘08 yet, I was considering selling it but with the price of new trucks I am going to by the parts to have ready when the time comes. On a side note My serpentine belt had become really loud, I thought the plastic idler had failed but it is fine, it turns out the noise was coming from the gator pattern on the Goodyear Gatorback belt running over the pulleys. I put a Motorcraft belt on, now all is quiet
same for the 4.6?
Yes, these are modular engines, sharing base components.
Hi Master, I Love your videos, all the time explain with details every video.
Hey Brian, will the 360hv work on an 04 5.4 3v? Everything I find says it's for a 32v. Which would be better 340hv or 360hv? Thanks
yes it will, generally the 340HV is enough.
Had the same question since Amazon said part does not fit my truck. Melling list the 360HV for later engines too. Glad you cleared that up. Will order the 360HV. So nice to have your videos with tried is and tips
Thats weird, we've got a expedition with 200,000 miles on it, no problems ever, changed the plugs myself with no problems, it's got an cold air intake, 3 inch cat back,hypertec programmer, and a shift kit, 3 inch lift, runs great
Is there an offering from Melling for us guys with Ecoboom trucks?
I don’t see anything other than OEM in their search is why I asked
EcoBoom . . . LMAO. Good one.
if its an ecoboom in your opinion ; why don't you get rid of it then.
There is no hope for the ecoboom trucks just like the exploders; Boom!
Lucky One Explorers are some if the most reliable suvs out there, especially the new ones.
I don't like plastic tensioners, so I bought Melling cast iron ratcheting type BT402 and BT403 . Good choice? I have a 2005 Mustang 4.6 3v and a 2007 TownCar 4.6 2v
Sigh. Dropped a torx t27 in it when changing the vct. You served me well until 248k, but I'm saying goodbye. You will be missed. Good thing I like my coyote so much.
Derek Ortiz so just get a magnet and get it out. Lol
Derek Ortiz 45
Leave it. If its not caught in the chain, it will just sit in the oil pan.
I have a 2006 F150 5.4L with 150k miles. I bought a M360HV from Rockauto, and my mechanic said it would not lay flat on the block. Rockauto refused to return it as defective because it isn't listed to fit my vehicle. Melling also doesn't list the M360HV for my vehicle. I'm stuck with a possibly defective pump. Lesson learned: Do your own research.
Do you have an install video for this? lol
ua-cam.com/video/ulEJfcQ7HhA/v-deo.html
I installed one of these 360HV's in my 08 5.4 3V. I have ungodly oil pressure when cold. I'm thinking the 340HV would have been a better idea, or even the Melling stock replacement with the cast iron backing plate.
Great. Wish I would of know 2 months ago. Great videos. Helped me out a lot,saved a ton of money doing it myself.
I wish you did more 2v videos, I love my truck.
Thanks mate I have a 06 Expedition .. thanks hi from Tijuana Bc Mexico my brother Oscar Sanchez and I Arthur Sanchez thank you ..
Looking for a recommendation -- if I do a timing job on a 2006 F150 with 200K miles and planning to put in a Melling M360HV pump. Should I still consider adding camshaft lockout kits to avoid potential future issues with camshaft phaser noise, or should I consider Melling M360HV pump as generally fixing that issue, and just run the phasers as intended?
I do not recommend lock outs at all and only use the M340HV
Thanks so much!!!@@FordTechMakuloco
@@FordTechMakuloco Just for clarification, I understand that you would recommend using the M340HV (60 psi max) over the M360HV (80 psi max) in most cases for an F150 2004-14 3V? Are there any exception cases where the M360HV might be desirable for the F150?
no
Thank u so far I've got ford timing kit I ordered this oil pump not what's the best gaskets to put it all back together I wanna bulletproof my 5.4. It's in a Eddie beaur el expedition that's deserves to keep going
All my best cars I would put a racing oil pump in. I also had one special car I had a electric pre lube pump installed in. The engine lasted 300,000 miles.