With boiled linseed oil I take a little mahogany stain maybe 5%, and 400 grid sandpaper and put a few drips on the wood and sand with the grain. It will create a "wood-mud" and seal the pores. Let that dry a day and repeat about four or five times!...beautiful. High end gun stock maker taught me that trick....last application leave out the sandpaper and just rub it in with your fingers.
Very interesting video, I am a woodworker who has just started the knifemaking journey.I have used danish oil on wood projects for a number of years and have only just discovered how good the humble boiled linseed oil can be. I also use a really good beeswax and canaurba wax finish which is made here in NZ. Your mixture of the linseed oil and mineral oil sounds promising,I will try it, then finish with the beeswax formula. I'll let you know of my progress. Cheers from Mike, Waikato, NZ..
Another awesome video! Did you do the test on the darker mahogany? How did it turn out? Thank you again for your service , your awesome attitude and all you have done for the knife world!!
I am a believer when it comes to Renaissance Wax, and I apply it to my scales with my finger. My question is, are you saying that Renaissance Wax is a filler, that multiple coats will smooth out an oak surface?
Well, I’d be interested to see at what extent but it does crystallize and can fill in small voids and make a raw wood feel fairly smooth after several coats. Not fire if call it or use it as a “wood filler” though. In the wood working world, that implies a whole other category
Can I make handles from wood carved in the forest? Once I dried them what would I have to do if I don’t have facility to stabilise it and don’t want to mess with oil all the time? Or is it one or another? How about I apply tru oil and then apply 2k clear coat?
Now that's a video, I loved it. Some very awesome information. Could you use boiled linseed oil by its self? Is mineral sprits just plain mineral oil? I have a knife that I bought from Bark River knives. It's wasn't cheap. I was surprised when I got it and the wood looked dry. I want the wood to pop out. I don't know what's on the wood . I don't want it to look to shiny but it needs to wake up. Should I buy boiled linseed oil or boiled linseed oil with mineral spirits. That was a fantastic lesson. Thanks. Tony.
Thanks Tony! You could get some 220 grit and 400 grit and sand the scales down a bit to open the wood. After that then the sky's the limit. A straight boiled Linseed oil has been used to treat and protect handles and scales for generations. The mix just "up's your game" a bit. Boiled linseed oil alone is thicker and therefore will not penetrate as well as if thinned like I do. You will have to buy the Boiled Linseed oil and Mineral Spirits (White Spirits up by you I think) separately and mix yourself. You could also just sand your knife scales down by hand and use the Renaissance Wax for the entire knife, blade and scales. If I recall, your blade is probably an O1 or 1095 steel? Either way you choose, they both could be used for many items on the homestead or in the workshop.
That was a very nice experiment, congratulations. If you can be bothered to answer one or two questions that I have, I'd be glad. Can linseed oil be considered some sort of wood sealant or it is more of an oil that only hydrates wood (like mineral oil) ? What sort of protection would you say it provides? After soaking, how often would you say a customer should apply another coat (maintenance)? Thanks, and greetings from Brazil.
On the boiled linseed oil w/mineral spirits I love that you're getting full penetration but I'm wondering if that may compromise adherence when it comes to glue up time??
For application on my knives, I’d soak the scales after they’ve been epoxied and shaped. This won’t affect adhesion. The showing of how the mix penetrates the wood pieces is just that. And yes, if you soaked the wood before adhesion, you would have issues
Really great video. If I were only using a block drilled out for my knife (no rivets or pommel) would I finish everything and just soak the knife up to the blade or would I do this pre-epoxy stage? Thanks again!
What would you suggest for Cocobolo? I'm going to be doing scales for a straight edge blade so outside exposure will be minimal. It's just a little project. I'm not well versed with woodworking.... but it appeals to me.
Steven Edwards ... Hey there! Well, Cocobolo has natural oils inherent with the wood but for a little extra protection a penetrating oil couldn’t hurt. Wipe on and wipe off and do a few light layers. No need to soak.
@@CKKnifeandTool Thank you. I appreciate the response. I have linseed, Watco, and Tung oil in house. I fiddle with guitars a bit. I'm just not sure which is most appropriate. I use the linseed oil on rosewood fretboards but they seem more open grained than the Cocobolo. This is the first time I'll be working with this wood.
I ordered a big block of Thuya Burl for scales on a custom tracker knife,, it’s not stabilized but I’m not sure it has to be!! I can’t find real good info on this topic!! Any recommendations???
I've seen Thuya scales stabilized before. Contact these folks at www.kandgstabilizing.com and ask them what they think. They've been stabilizing all sorts of shapes, sizes and species of wood.
Thanks for posting.... good stuff!
With boiled linseed oil I take a little mahogany stain maybe 5%, and 400 grid sandpaper and put a few drips on the wood and sand with the grain. It will create a "wood-mud" and seal the pores. Let that dry a day and repeat about four or five times!...beautiful. High end gun stock maker taught me that trick....last application leave out the sandpaper and just rub it in with your fingers.
That sounds great! Thanks for sharing with us all.
Very informative video. Cheers
Very interesting video, I am a woodworker who has just started the knifemaking journey.I have used danish oil on wood projects for a number of years and have only just discovered how good the humble boiled linseed oil can be. I also use a really good beeswax and canaurba wax finish which is made here in NZ. Your mixture of the linseed oil and mineral oil sounds promising,I will try it, then finish with the beeswax formula. I'll let you know of my progress. Cheers from Mike, Waikato, NZ..
.... Hello and Thanks! I still use this mixture even though the video is a little old. I just thought I’d let you know.
Another awesome video! Did you do the test on the darker mahogany? How did it turn out? Thank you again for your service , your awesome attitude and all you have done for the knife world!!
I am a believer when it comes to Renaissance Wax, and I apply it to my scales with my finger. My question is, are you saying that Renaissance Wax is a filler, that multiple coats will smooth out an oak surface?
Well, I’d be interested to see at what extent but it does crystallize and can fill in small voids and make a raw wood feel fairly smooth after several coats. Not fire if call it or use it as a “wood filler” though. In the wood working world, that implies a whole other category
Thank you, very informative.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video Mate thanks
I didn’t watch the whole video but the Ren wax shines when you sand to 400 or 600 grit first. Then BLO, then wax.
I find TruOil thinned with turpentine and a little Japan drier added works best. Several coats can be applied in the same day
John Emmerling .... Thanks for that info John!
Can I make handles from wood carved in the forest? Once I dried them what would I have to do if I don’t have facility to stabilise it and don’t want to mess with oil all the time? Or is it one or another?
How about I apply tru oil and then apply 2k clear coat?
Now that's a video, I loved it. Some very awesome information. Could you use boiled linseed oil by its self? Is mineral sprits just plain mineral oil? I have a knife that I bought from Bark River knives. It's wasn't cheap. I was surprised when I got it and the wood looked dry. I want the wood to pop out. I don't know what's on the wood . I don't want it to look to shiny but it needs to wake up. Should I buy boiled linseed oil or boiled linseed oil with mineral spirits. That was a fantastic lesson. Thanks. Tony.
Thanks Tony! You could get some 220 grit and 400 grit and sand the scales down a bit to open the wood. After that then the sky's the limit. A straight boiled Linseed oil has been used to treat and protect handles and scales for generations. The mix just "up's your game" a bit. Boiled linseed oil alone is thicker and therefore will not penetrate as well as if thinned like I do. You will have to buy the Boiled Linseed oil and Mineral Spirits (White Spirits up by you I think) separately and mix yourself. You could also just sand your knife scales down by hand and use the Renaissance Wax for the entire knife, blade and scales. If I recall, your blade is probably an O1 or 1095 steel? Either way you choose, they both could be used for many items on the homestead or in the workshop.
That was a very nice experiment, congratulations.
If you can be bothered to answer one or two questions that I have, I'd be glad.
Can linseed oil be considered some sort of wood sealant or it is more of an oil that only hydrates wood (like mineral oil) ? What sort of protection would you say it provides? After soaking, how often would you say a customer should apply another coat (maintenance)?
Thanks, and greetings from Brazil.
On the boiled linseed oil w/mineral spirits I love that you're getting full penetration but I'm wondering if that may compromise adherence when it comes to glue up time??
For application on my knives, I’d soak the scales after they’ve been epoxied and shaped. This won’t affect adhesion. The showing of how the mix penetrates the wood pieces is just that. And yes, if you soaked the wood before adhesion, you would have issues
Really great video. If I were only using a block drilled out for my knife (no rivets or pommel) would I finish everything and just soak the knife up to the blade or would I do this pre-epoxy stage? Thanks again!
jerry d... I’d say complete the knife and then soak the handle/scales. Submerge over the scales and let sit for a few days.
I can submerge the knife handle in a 50-50 solution and it won't affect the apoxy bond of the scales to the knife?
Thanks
You'll be just fine. Thanks for the question and thanks for watching!
Very helpful.
What would you suggest for Cocobolo? I'm going to be doing scales for a straight edge blade so outside exposure will be minimal. It's just a little project. I'm not well versed with woodworking.... but it appeals to me.
Steven Edwards ... Hey there! Well, Cocobolo has natural oils inherent with the wood but for a little extra protection a penetrating oil couldn’t hurt. Wipe on and wipe off and do a few light layers. No need to soak.
@@CKKnifeandTool Thank you. I appreciate the response. I have linseed, Watco, and Tung oil in house. I fiddle with guitars a bit. I'm just not sure which is most appropriate. I use the linseed oil on rosewood fretboards but they seem more open grained than the Cocobolo. This is the first time I'll be working with this wood.
I ordered a big block of Thuya Burl for scales on a custom tracker knife,, it’s not stabilized but I’m not sure it has to be!! I can’t find real good info on this topic!! Any recommendations???
I've seen Thuya scales stabilized before. Contact these folks at www.kandgstabilizing.com and ask them what they think. They've been stabilizing all sorts of shapes, sizes and species of wood.
On your stabilized wood give mothers aluminum polish a try you’ll be amazed
Thanks