i like the comp cams XR276HR hydraulic roller in a 350. Makes 465 torque and 360hp with 180cc ported rhs heads and performer EPS mild intake it is way better than the standard performer, more like between the rpm and performer and more versatile. the XR282HR made over 500 ft lbs of torque in a 383!
Im building a 357 with 10.1 compression with AFR 195 heads and AFR dual plane intake. Can't decide on a cam shaft. Will be going in a daily driver s10 with stock rear end gears.
Hotrods Garage, I am not by a list of cams that I could recommend. But s10 is light, since it is a daily driver, I would go with a cam that does not require a stall higher than 2500rpm. You want a cam that starts off immediately and not a high rpm. I would also go with a hydraulic roller cam and not a flat tappet
Stock gears and or stall convertor suggest a cam 210-215 deg duration at .050 lift do not exceed 218 deg at .050 lift suggest 110-112 deg lobe centers 4 deg advanced.
Rey, I have a 350 chevy, I want to install some different heads and put in a noticeable cam, say like a 512 lift or so. what could you recommend that would work for that cam? I know the valve springs will have to meet the specs on the cam.
It's very common to see people with a .490-.500 lift cam with z28 springs and vortec seals and retainers. I personally wouldn't worry too much about lift because the heads you'll use on a 350 probably won't flow any more air over .450 lift anyways.
if you want a true rv cam try the comp cams DEH255 or DEH 265 or high energy 260, or the PE 246 or the XE250 i like the XE250 and XE256 the perfect cam for a 350. Makes about 400 tq and 300 hp with good heads with headers and performer EPS intake with good fuel economy. The XE256 makes up to 330-350hp tops usually. Some stout cams for street Hydraulic roller XR276HR in a 350. XR282HR in a 383. Both with EPS intake make some huge off the line torque. 465 tq for the 350 with 360hp. and the 383 makes over 500 torque with 410hp also. huge numbers in the low end like these can use less throttle to move a car and cruise at peak torque rpm with less throttle But you want a torque converter built by someone to match exactly for this purpose, if you want the best possible of both worlds of daily driving and performance and a great tug tickling your belly as you drive then this is it.
You put a cam with more than 0.450-0.475 lift in a sbc and you are wasting your time. It's too far for the valve to open and close fast enough to retain all the air its sucking in. Like slamming your door with the window up vs window down and the rolling it up. All the pressure is gone before it seals up. Going bigger good but there's always a breaking point where it starts to be a hindrance to its performance.
Thing sounds sweet! I have a 283, and an rv cam. I hope it sounds this good when I get it together.
Definitely love the one piece oil pan gasket too.
i like the comp cams XR276HR hydraulic roller in a 350. Makes 465 torque and 360hp with 180cc ported rhs heads and performer EPS mild intake it is way better than the standard performer, more like between the rpm and performer and more versatile. the XR282HR made over 500 ft lbs of torque in a 383!
Gr8 Build..327's r the high rpm master of small blocks💪
I want a RV cam in my 79 crate 350 so bad!
Sounds beautiful
Im building a 357 with 10.1 compression with AFR 195 heads and AFR dual plane intake. Can't decide on a cam shaft. Will be going in a daily driver s10 with stock rear end gears.
Hotrods Garage, I am not by a list of cams that I could recommend. But s10 is light, since it is a daily driver, I would go with a cam that does not require a stall higher than 2500rpm. You want a cam that starts off immediately and not a high rpm. I would also go with a hydraulic roller cam and not a flat tappet
Stock gears and or stall convertor suggest a cam 210-215 deg duration at .050 lift do not exceed 218 deg at .050 lift suggest 110-112 deg lobe centers 4 deg advanced.
Do you have a link for the camshaft?
What heads did you use?
Dope
What cam did you use?
RV cam. You can to my how to build a engine video and I show all the details of the build. Thanks
@@reyracercan you send me the link for the cam?
Rey, I have a 350 chevy, I want to install some different heads and put in a noticeable cam, say like a 512 lift or so. what could you recommend that would work for that cam? I know the valve springs will have to meet the specs on the cam.
Compression, cam, intake, heads, need to be a match. Lift, duration, lobe separation are all important. You can find me on Facebook under Reys engines
It's very common to see people with a .490-.500 lift cam with z28 springs and vortec seals and retainers. I personally wouldn't worry too much about lift because the heads you'll use on a 350 probably won't flow any more air over .450 lift anyways.
@@reyracer you got a shop ? I wanna build a 305 i need tips ?
@@reyracer nice
And with that rv cam do you need to change anything? I have a stock 305
What heads are those?
Those are stock heads
I was told RV cams are faster off the line
More low end torque, but lower top end HP.
if you want a true rv cam try the comp cams DEH255 or DEH 265 or high energy 260, or the PE 246 or the XE250 i like the XE250 and XE256 the perfect cam for a 350. Makes about 400 tq and 300 hp with good heads with headers and performer EPS intake with good fuel economy. The XE256 makes up to 330-350hp tops usually. Some stout cams for street Hydraulic roller XR276HR in a 350. XR282HR in a 383. Both with EPS intake make some huge off the line torque. 465 tq for the 350 with 360hp. and the 383 makes over 500 torque with 410hp also. huge numbers in the low end like these can use less throttle to move a car and cruise at peak torque rpm with less throttle But you want a torque converter built by someone to match exactly for this purpose, if you want the best possible of both worlds of daily driving and performance and a great tug tickling your belly as you drive then this is it.
220...230hp??
probably more like 265 hp
Is it a roller motor
Alex Mercado
It is a flat tappet cam. Budget build small block.
Alex Mercado
It is a flat tappet hydraulic cam a d lifters. Budget built small block
You put a cam with more than 0.450-0.475 lift in a sbc and you are wasting your time. It's too far for the valve to open and close fast enough to retain all the air its sucking in. Like slamming your door with the window up vs window down and the rolling it up. All the pressure is gone before it seals up. Going bigger good but there's always a breaking point where it starts to be a hindrance to its performance.
It's called too much overlap. The sound is actually reversion.
Why would you do all that to a basically stock motor what is a crappy RV camp which is absolutely doing nothing for you
Cooler sounding vrooms
First its not stock second a rv cam gives it more tourqe
@@brandonhoward8889 you replied to the wrong person