Amazes me when u see the tyre fitter monkey use an air gun and then check the torque with torque wrench the torque wrench is going to click because its probably set to 120nm bur its already been tightened to 250nm by the monkey with the air gun first lol
@@rhysevans9611 up to the manager to kick their ass or sack em I worked in the trade all my life and wouldn't stand it aprentices would get various punishments inflicted 😁
Someone who uses my bosses work shop only changes oil filter and air filter and just tops up oil with Napa but says that the mot garage over the road changes the oil but the sump plug never been touched
That non oil change overfill is straight up the most ridiculous diy cock up I’ve ever seen or even heard about. If it wasn’t on film I wouldn’t have believed it.
It was never a runaway diesel The engine detonated This is the second time in my life I’ve seen such stupidity Over filling car with oil it will blow up the engine block period Oil does not compress sitting underneath the piston caps 💥
Make a sharp tightening movement first to break the oxidised seal caused by dissimilar metals and then a sharp loosening to crack off the remaining tension. In 40+ years of doing this it has rarely failed . Shown this by my first foreman in the 70's when we had apprenticeships. All the best young man.
There's money to be made in this trade but some people let the money get to their head and the quality of work decreases. Either overselling, or not being genuine to a customer by telling them exactly what they need and just keeping it cheap so they still have their fault. It really isn't difficult to follow the information on autodata or E3 or whatever, some people are so lazy, and then this shatters the reputation of us and then people try it themselves and break their stuff. Being genuine to the customer and taking your time is the best way, keep it up mate
What can I say? Excellent presentation, excellent knowledge, NOT doing unnecessary work to ramp up costs to customers, obviously loves his cars, and treats people with respect. You deserve a lot more views. I hope your customers made you a brew too, it's no fun working outside, with cold hands, and icy cold tools. I service my own motorbikes, but I realise I don't have the tools, or expertise to do my cars, (sometimes you need a ramp, and knowledge about what happens when you undo a bolt BEFORE you undo it...). DIY mechanics is a fine line between having a go, AND being aware not only of your limitations, but can you save it if things go wrong. Your vids also highlight the fact that some "qualified" mechanics haven't learned that lesson yet too! Great job.
Top stuff as usual. I had a friend do a similar thing with a 3 year old Mercedes S class. He over filled the oil and drove it until it hydrolocked. He got it going again but it was down a cylinder. I took the oil cap off and the pressure coming out of there told me all I needed to know. Probably put a hole in a piston. Sold it for spares/repair. Very expensive lesson!
@themarvelousvlog literally just had another one today! 2012 Vauxhall Antara 2.2 Cdti. His brother "who is into mechanics" topped up the oil with 4L. It's reading about 6 inches over the max on the dipstick. It's sprayed out everywhere and knocking badly. Not even going to try draining it out. Replacement engine required.
Your actually supposed too reset the torque wrench back too 0nm after using it, if the tension spring is left on a certain setting for too long, the spring will Stretch and will no longer be calibrated even if you get it calibrated it will still be off/incorrect 👌🏻
@@alfiexpyne9301 Because Stahlwille wrote that in their manual. They changed the spring type, not having something under tension when the wrench is not in use. I expect most other manufacturers to do the same. But read your tools manual, it might be different.
Another tip for the well being of a torque wrench is to wind it back to minimum setting when finished and storing. Wind up tension held on the internal spring will send it out of calibration over time.
Just found your channel. I can’t praise you enough, very skilled and very logical with your fault finding process. You clearly have your head screwed on. Well done 👍
When I use to work as a machine apprentice I got the nick name Vicegrips coz I tightened the bosses truck lugs so tight they had to cut the rim off😂 that's what he gets for not paying me. Used a 3meter pipe and a 600mm breaker bar. 22mm socket.
Watching Guys at a local tyre shop I worked out their trick. They have their torque wrentches set to about 70 NM and they tighten each bolt a bit further to get it kind of correct. Upon checking my bolts were from about 80 to about 140 (BMW) . I always check...I have even had braking issues that hve been completly resolved just by fixing the lug torque. So even torque is no just about the wheel comming off.
It's always aluminium corrosion on where the main seal sits in the caliper. I had to use dental picks to remove the alu oxide. Only a tiny bit of corrosion will seize up the calipers. Usually the rears.
When you have a tight bolt try using a short extension and a trolley jack to support it so that you keep the socket square on the bolt(pushing downwards), this way you apply all your force correctly and you have less chance of rounding the head
booked to get my tyres replaced in halfords once, didnts want to as dont trust them anyway, but none of the other locals were really gona beat halfords deal on replacing all 4. while waiting, someone came in to rip into them, they just had a tyre replacment, got up the road and felt something off so topped in eurocar parts, turns out halfords had sheared half the bolts off compleatly. I told them they wont be touching my car and swanned off outa there, with 2 other people.
I'm not surprised, i've never seen a torque wrench in site at a tyre fitters. I install the wheels myself & torque them after replacing tyres. I once bent the wheel brace from my bmw toolkit (i still need to replace it) because the previous guy tightened them way too much. I now own a breaker bar and a torque wrench.
One of those pet hates as a mechanic, for the full house of crap it's a overtorqued locking wheel nut, zero chance of getting them back off. People who know nothing of cars or mechanics should give it a miss or at least use google to find a video like this to give you all you need to avoid making an arse of it. Top video Marv bro as always. Hope pirate John is healing up hehe.
What a sad tale. I do all my own spannering because my experience with professionals hasn't been great (and I started when I was a student and was just skint - first job I ever did was an engine replacement because I had been sold a completely knackered one by a dodgy geezer - it did less than 400 miles before dying). After 35 years of this it's hard to imagine someone being prepared to change their own oil but not knowing what they don't know to such a degree. You'd think they would check on youtube rather than just going for it. You can see why they tried starting it anyway, not realising that if you start a car with way too much oil in it might blow itself up - that really isn't obvious to most people. They should have been able to stop it by sticking it in gear and standing on the brakes, I presume? I had to do that once when I replaced the fuel injection pump and the new one had no solenoid in it so I had no way to stop the car. It was running pretty fast (timing was off), but not runaway-acceleration fast. The wheel was off so had to put the bolts back in before I could use the front brakes. That was an exciting couple of minutes!. I never heard of anyone actually destroying their engine this way before. I wonder what the insurance people will say about that self-inflicted fail? Just bought my first car this week that has a computer in it, so I can enter this whole new world of electronic diagnostics. I enjoyed the fettlability of electromechanical world - not sure how much I'm going to like all this proprietary software in everything.
Steel wheel nuts can become corroded onto aluminum wheels in spite of correct torque.I use locative aluminum specification anti seize to protect against skis.
You should be pushing down not lifting up, when you push down you can support the extension resulting in a twisting force on the bolt, lifting with no support mean half your energy is twisting the socket off the bolt causing it to round off. Every time the socket slips off you damage the bolt head making it harder and harder every time. Put your jack under the extension so it's exactly 90`. Use an extension long enough that the jack can support it.
I felt bad for laughing at that last one. I've had issues filling up a motorcycle with oil once. Couldn't get the level right, poured in extra oil wondering if they'd not allowed for the oil filter in the quantity mentioned in the manual. Then when I started it the level suddenly shot up above the sight glass. No idea what caused that. Ended up draining oil out until we had the right level. To this day i've no idea why that happened. A quick test ride later and the level was perfect (shrugs).
Haha well done. I've been waiting to see how that bimmer wheel bolt went, did you run another bolt or tap through the thread to check it wasn't damaged after, what am I saying of course you did your on it like sonic......👍👌👍 Sound advice about not dropping torque bars too, plus silicon grease vs cooper grease its very reassuring to see younger lads like yourself doing it properly, stay safe and keep having fun Marvelous.....👍👌👍
A tip I saw / used from a YT to loosen a stuck wheel nut was to loosen the other bolts but not ‘too’ loose - then take car for a short drive - not too fast - this will shock the bolt - then tighten the loosened bolts up quite high - this will hopefully allow the originally stuck bolt to be removed a lot easier
Forgot to add - when about to loosen bolts for a first time - tighten bolt up a smidgen then back them off - you could do this on a stuck bolt for a good few times - slowly applying back n forth -
Some years ago I had the unfortunate problem with a garage over tightening wheel nuts but to their credit they sent a young man (on his way home from work) with a 3ft breaker bar and slackened them off. Ever since I have invested in breaker bars of various sizes ad have not had the problem again.
My BMW did the same thing on both front wheels all bolts and 2 of the rear bolts too. Nuematic impact couldnt shift it. We had a snapon lever bar with a 2m scaffold pole and finally they cracked. Good job snapon has a lifetime warranty.
Euro car parts - strikes again! Also, we asume the wheel bolts were gunned on, but BMW, Range rover and Ford seem to suffer with bolts/nuts seizing on even when torqued properly.
Just found your channel. Addicted to watch your vids mate! Proper grafter. I also watch Kevin Williams mobile clutch videos. Have u seen his channel? He did my clutch in the summer
@@themarvelousvlog do u cover my area mate. I live near Guildford. My local garage has closed down and I hate servicing my insignia myself. The oil filter is so awkward to get to!
I always replace the discs at the same time as the pads. My theory is that over time with both pad and disc wear, the pistons are pushed further out giving more opportunity for rust and dirt to take their toll on the seals. I have never had to replace a caliper using this method in over 20 years.
Bit excessive if you ask me to change both at the same time Given how soft the pads are compared to the discs I've ran through set of pads without any wear at all to the discs But each to there own We don't all have massive bank accounts 😂
You can use a caliper to meausre the wear on the discs. 2mm worn, then new set of discs required. Usually on my car, second set of pads requires new set of discs. A couple of MM won't make much difference to the piston!
I have a Vauxhall insignia which the engine oil got over filled and caused the same run away issue but I didn’t need to replace the engine I took out the intercooler and cleaned it properly and make sure no excessive oil was else where and put new oil and filter after and the car has been running absolutely fine ever since
there is a specialist socket set kit that is designed to remove rounded bolts very very easily all you need is a decent cordless drill to create the special contact head on the rounded bolt. and get your self a small impact gun instead of relying on breaker bars for stuff like that.. The impacts are what loosen it gradually when bolts are seized intill they actually start rotating out the thread.
I see you say you only use quality parts, what brand parts are best ? Brembo and pagid for brakes, whats best for coil springs, control arms, clutches.
That 15:10 is mad! Garages should have a live UA-cam feed for the oil changing and service bay so customers can view the change / service live. They will smash it if they did and they can use it for the video ads to get local customers and you can charge extra £20 for having it making you extra £500 a week.
Euro car parts is a last resort for me now days, GSF and autodoc etc first call for me. Had an impact monkey strip the thread out of a calliper carrier bracket on my 7 series (done at a BMW garage) and then was also servicing a pick up and barely got the sump plug out to find the copper washer split in two it was so tight. Laziness and incompetence in equal measure at some places.
As I prefer to buy the parts the garages need to fit, I've stopped using ECP/GSF. Most parts aren't in stock, if it is, then it's usually chinese branded parts. Parts In Motion are my preferred supplier now. Decent prices, next day delivery and they stock top brands.
On about Torquing as well. like forums, car groups, enthusiasts are guilty everywhere of showing how to guides for their car but never mentioning how much to torque bolts and fittings in or just cutting away portions of video how they took something apart and put back together again. People appreciate if you show every step and every detail so some mechanic later on doesn't have to struggle with a botched Diy job.
I find it hard to believe that the major reason this bloke did the diy "service" is because he was worried about getting fleeced! Surely if he can afford that kind of car he can take it to a decent dealership? Or maybe just view trusted ratings of garages in the local area? Fucking hell words fail me!
@@themarvelousvlog Except there shouldn't really be much risk in doing an oil change! It's not rocket science. It had never occurred to me that anyone could fuck it up quite that badly.
I was stranded recently due to a " locking wheelnut" for more than 7 hours. The RAC man tried for half an hour then left me stranded. Eventually I got my car to my mechanic and with some persuasion with a hammer & cold chisel it came off in less than 60 seconds . I ALWAYS change my crap locknuts for a normal bolt from now on .
I've been looking after my cars for 20 years. Not suffered a mechanical failure yet and cars are serviced better than going to a garage. I've acquired most tools, buy oil in 20litre drums. 160,000 miles in my Mercedes over seven years was still on original turbo etc and rare manual on original clutch. Audi nearly on 100k now after 4 years and will keep for another 4. Gave up using ECP and GSF years ago when they stopped doing the TRW/Delphi/ATE parts and began to sell some crap instead. Theres the local motor factors that can get anything, Autodoc, partsinmotion, TPS and others.
With the Vw caddy you get that light come on (steering wheel ) when the battery been flat but that’s easy fix full lock left full lock right turn off turn on fixed just saying probably bmw ,s not the same .. great videos
Worked for ECP and always ask the customers to check the parts before leaving the shop or before the delivery van goes away. The returns department are atrocious
I know someone who had a insignia 2.0cdti and the service indicator tells you oil quality left it read 10% of life left, customer assumed that there was only 10% oil left in the engine so went to Halfords and worked out how much to ADD 😅 of course it ran away 😂
When I had my brakes done On my Audi A3 8p1 2.0tfsi quattro, I replaced the pads/disc/ heat protector/brake fluid, and two new callipers. I then went on a diet lol
Such a shame the owner of that car couldn't trust the local mechanics, but I know how he feels as there are some appalling mechanics that are allowed to just get away with it. I had a bad experience with Halfords Service Centre mechanics in the 1990s and it seems nothing has changed. I would trust Marvelous Cars though, you do a great job keeping peoples cars serviced and repaired, good on you.
Brother, if you were in Glasgow, I would be getting you to repair and service my cars. You actually give some f's and care about the quality of your work.
Worked on a sprinter once, only a couple years old and the customer come had it recovered in and it wasn't starting after he'd changed the oil. So I drained the oil into a 20l drum and a 5l drum. He didnt even drain the oil just added another 12.5l. Couldn't afford the engine so the van went to copart.
Only 3 brake pads who filled that box , this is why I always open and check parts before I leave the shop and I always use a half inch breaker bar on wheel bolts
Often times rear calipers esp with standard paring brake(not EPB), reguire not just pushing back but rather pushing and screwing in - not sure whether it applies to this BMW X3 but it could be also a reason why you couldn't compress the caliper pistons back.
The Ingenium Evoque - don't worry too much- it would have destroyed itself if the owner hadn't ! I've seen these dead before 40,000 miles purely from how crap they are.
I know how the guy feels about not trusting any mechanics, I am the same. I do what work I can myself if I can be bothered. I have never done an oil change, which is one of the easiest things to do if you have the right equipment. Last oil change, I had the auxiliary belt changed, and the guy forgot to tighten one bolt, resulting in the belt coming off and shredding after 40 miles. He tells me I need to replace the guide pulley. I bought a new belt, changed it myself without replacing the guide pulley, and so far I've done 4000 miles and it hasn't come off.
Amazes me when u see the tyre fitter monkey use an air gun and then check the torque with torque wrench the torque wrench is going to click because its probably set to 120nm bur its already been tightened to 250nm by the monkey with the air gun first lol
EXACTLY MATE! Love this 😂
Yep 💯💯💯🤣😂
🙊
I've worked at tyre garages before and seen the new kids do this. Showed them the right way and they just laugh at you because they don't give a crap.
@@rhysevans9611 up to the manager to kick their ass or sack em I worked in the trade all my life and wouldn't stand it aprentices would get various punishments inflicted 😁
One thing to overfill the engine but not draining the old oil out I have no words 😂😂
I stayed professional when he told me the story 🤣
@themarvelousvlog fair play because I would of burst out laughing 😃
Plenty of videos on UA-cam to guide him through the process. What i don't understand is why he added eight litres of oil
I think he was checking the drip stick but couldn’t see anything?
Someone who uses my bosses work shop only changes oil filter and air filter and just tops up oil with Napa but says that the mot garage over the road changes the oil but the sump plug never been touched
Halfords should be informed that every BMW since the mid 90's is 140 nm, NOT 1400 nm. 😂 Top work, man! Gained a new subscriber tonight! 💪
Brilliant buddy. Glad you got back to sort out the bmw . A pleasure to watch someone who enjoys their work and happy to share their learning. 🤛
Thank you!
That non oil change overfill is straight up the most ridiculous diy cock up I’ve ever seen or even heard about. If it wasn’t on film I wouldn’t have believed it.
Crazy isn’t? Not the first time I’ve come across one either 🤣
It was never a runaway diesel The engine detonated This is the second time in my life I’ve seen such stupidity Over filling car with oil it will blow up the engine block period Oil does not compress sitting underneath the piston caps 💥
To me, what I find really crazy is that he/she can't even take it back to where they bought it from.
Self-inflicted Ouch !!
Great to see a real pro. No assumptions. Assess check and check again- then make a judgement. Logical and professional. Thanks for sharing.
You know your stuff my friend. Wish you lived by me its hard to find a good, trustworthy, knowledgeable mechanic nowadays. Wishing success for you!
Thank you good sir!
Where are you based, I might know someone in your area?
Absolutely without a doubt a very clever guy.Well done you my friend. A joy to watch. A guy who deffinately knows his stuff.
Thank you for your kinds words! Definitely not there yet but I’m always trying my best to learn new things everyday 😁
great to see a young technician taking a pride in their work . which brand did you serve your apprenticeship with.
Straight from working with BMW 🫡
Loving the passion you show through your work. Keep up the good work and good luck to ya
Make a sharp tightening movement first to break the oxidised seal caused by dissimilar metals and then a sharp loosening to crack off the remaining tension.
In 40+ years of doing this it has rarely failed . Shown this by my first foreman in the 70's when we had apprenticeships. All the best young man.
Great to see a man who knows how to torque wheels ! 👍
There's money to be made in this trade but some people let the money get to their head and the quality of work decreases. Either overselling, or not being genuine to a customer by telling them exactly what they need and just keeping it cheap so they still have their fault. It really isn't difficult to follow the information on autodata or E3 or whatever, some people are so lazy, and then this shatters the reputation of us and then people try it themselves and break their stuff. Being genuine to the customer and taking your time is the best way, keep it up mate
Preach mate! Totally agree with what you’re saying!
What can I say? Excellent presentation, excellent knowledge, NOT doing unnecessary work to ramp up costs to customers, obviously loves his cars, and treats people with respect.
You deserve a lot more views.
I hope your customers made you a brew too, it's no fun working outside, with cold hands, and icy cold tools.
I service my own motorbikes, but I realise I don't have the tools, or expertise to do my cars, (sometimes you need a ramp, and knowledge about what happens when you undo a bolt BEFORE you undo it...). DIY mechanics is a fine line between having a go, AND being aware not only of your limitations, but can you save it if things go wrong. Your vids also highlight the fact that some "qualified" mechanics haven't learned that lesson yet too!
Great job.
Thank you for your kind words!
Good channel..only just found it ..very young but professional knows his stuff is very through..nice seeing young guys doing good work... best of luck
Top stuff as usual. I had a friend do a similar thing with a 3 year old Mercedes S class. He over filled the oil and drove it until it hydrolocked. He got it going again but it was down a cylinder. I took the oil cap off and the pressure coming out of there told me all I needed to know. Probably put a hole in a piston. Sold it for spares/repair. Very expensive lesson!
It’s very unfortunate really when things like this happen to people. At least now he knows not to do that haha 😅
@themarvelousvlog literally just had another one today! 2012 Vauxhall Antara 2.2 Cdti.
His brother "who is into mechanics" topped up the oil with 4L. It's reading about 6 inches over the max on the dipstick. It's sprayed out everywhere and knocking badly.
Not even going to try draining it out. Replacement engine required.
Probably shagged the cylinders and piston too mate, mainly the rod… and everything else 😂😂😂
Your actually supposed too reset the torque wrench back too 0nm after using it, if the tension spring is left on a certain setting for too long, the spring will Stretch and will no longer be calibrated even if you get it calibrated it will still be off/incorrect 👌🏻
Not on most modern ones anymore
@@TMonist really why’s that?
@@alfiexpyne9301 Because Stahlwille wrote that in their manual. They changed the spring type, not having something under tension when the wrench is not in use. I expect most other manufacturers to do the same. But read your tools manual, it might be different.
Another tip for the well being of a torque wrench is to wind it back to minimum setting when finished and storing. Wind up tension held on the internal spring will send it out of calibration over time.
Great channel love the subject and the energy you have for the job
Good work again. We need more like you 😊
did the same with discs and pads on my mini recently on a sunday when I got sent the wrong pads!
7:05 also, don't forget to reset the torque wrench to zero when you're done using it.
Just found your channel. I can’t praise you enough, very skilled and very logical with your fault finding process. You clearly have your head screwed on. Well done 👍
I've been using Euros since 2007 they used to be really good, now I find them really expensive.
Eurotrash more like
When I use to work as a machine apprentice I got the nick name Vicegrips coz I tightened the bosses truck lugs so tight they had to cut the rim off😂 that's what he gets for not paying me. Used a 3meter pipe and a 600mm breaker bar. 22mm socket.
I've done most of my own work for 10+ years ..when I buy parts I check them.outside shop ....Good work
Watching Guys at a local tyre shop I worked out their trick. They have their torque wrentches set to about 70 NM and they tighten each bolt a bit further to get it kind of correct. Upon checking my bolts were from about 80 to about 140 (BMW) . I always check...I have even had braking issues that hve been completly resolved just by fixing the lug torque. So even torque is no just about the wheel comming off.
I had a customer fill their engine oil up once. Trouble is they did - fill it right up. To the top of the rocker cover. It smoked a little.
It's always aluminium corrosion on where the main seal sits in the caliper. I had to use dental picks to remove the alu oxide. Only a tiny bit of corrosion will seize up the calipers. Usually the rears.
top tip i always used to check outside eurocarparts if everything is inside
When you have a tight bolt try using a short extension and a trolley jack to support it so that you keep the socket square on the bolt(pushing downwards), this way you apply all your force correctly and you have less chance of rounding the head
Definitely! I always do this with my truck and van.
booked to get my tyres replaced in halfords once, didnts want to as dont trust them anyway, but none of the other locals were really gona beat halfords deal on replacing all 4. while waiting, someone came in to rip into them, they just had a tyre replacment, got up the road and felt something off so topped in eurocar parts, turns out halfords had sheared half the bolts off compleatly.
I told them they wont be touching my car and swanned off outa there, with 2 other people.
I'm not surprised, i've never seen a torque wrench in site at a tyre fitters. I install the wheels myself & torque them after replacing tyres. I once bent the wheel brace from my bmw toolkit (i still need to replace it) because the previous guy tightened them way too much. I now own a breaker bar and a torque wrench.
@2:53, the look is PRICELESS...Good video and thanks for sharing...
They annoyed me mate, honestly! Took an hour of my day by driving to the closest one
One of those pet hates as a mechanic, for the full house of crap it's a overtorqued locking wheel nut, zero chance of getting them back off. People who know nothing of cars or mechanics should give it a miss or at least use google to find a video like this to give you all you need to avoid making an arse of it.
Top video Marv bro as always. Hope pirate John is healing up hehe.
Pirate John is currently on 🐈 holiday 😂
What a sad tale. I do all my own spannering because my experience with professionals hasn't been great (and I started when I was a student and was just skint - first job I ever did was an engine replacement because I had been sold a completely knackered one by a dodgy geezer - it did less than 400 miles before dying). After 35 years of this it's hard to imagine someone being prepared to change their own oil but not knowing what they don't know to such a degree. You'd think they would check on youtube rather than just going for it. You can see why they tried starting it anyway, not realising that if you start a car with way too much oil in it might blow itself up - that really isn't obvious to most people. They should have been able to stop it by sticking it in gear and standing on the brakes, I presume?
I had to do that once when I replaced the fuel injection pump and the new one had no solenoid in it so I had no way to stop the car. It was running pretty fast (timing was off), but not runaway-acceleration fast. The wheel was off so had to put the bolts back in before I could use the front brakes. That was an exciting couple of minutes!.
I never heard of anyone actually destroying their engine this way before. I wonder what the insurance people will say about that self-inflicted fail?
Just bought my first car this week that has a computer in it, so I can enter this whole new world of electronic diagnostics. I enjoyed the fettlability of electromechanical world - not sure how much I'm going to like all this proprietary software in everything.
Steel wheel nuts can become corroded onto aluminum wheels in spite of correct torque.I use locative aluminum specification anti seize to protect against skis.
You should be pushing down not lifting up, when you push down you can support the extension resulting in a twisting force on the bolt, lifting with no support mean half your energy is twisting the socket off the bolt causing it to round off. Every time the socket slips off you damage the bolt head making it harder and harder every time. Put your jack under the extension so it's exactly 90`. Use an extension long enough that the jack can support it.
Got to respect this fellers work ethic.
Purchase a standalone diesel heater for those winter days....Loving the content.
I felt bad for laughing at that last one. I've had issues filling up a motorcycle with oil once. Couldn't get the level right, poured in extra oil wondering if they'd not allowed for the oil filter in the quantity mentioned in the manual. Then when I started it the level suddenly shot up above the sight glass. No idea what caused that. Ended up draining oil out until we had the right level. To this day i've no idea why that happened. A quick test ride later and the level was perfect (shrugs).
Haha well done. I've been waiting to see how that bimmer wheel bolt went, did you run another bolt or tap through the thread to check it wasn't damaged after, what am I saying of course you did your on it like sonic......👍👌👍
Sound advice about not dropping torque bars too, plus silicon grease vs cooper grease its very reassuring to see younger lads like yourself doing it properly, stay safe and keep having fun Marvelous.....👍👌👍
All is well with it mate, polished it just to see if it it’s cracked and nothing. All good!
Thank you for watching 🫡
@@themarvelousvlog no worries I've been enjoying it tbh, stay safe and keep having fun bro....👍👌👍
A tip I saw / used from a YT to loosen a stuck wheel nut was to loosen the other bolts but not ‘too’ loose - then take car for a short drive - not too fast - this will shock the bolt - then tighten the loosened bolts up quite high - this will hopefully allow the originally stuck bolt to be removed a lot easier
Forgot to add - when about to loosen bolts for a first time - tighten bolt up a smidgen then back them off - you could do this on a stuck bolt for a good few times - slowly applying back n forth -
love watching your vids reminds me so much of myself at your age
New engine required, end of, next job. Classic!
Big improvement on the intro, give a bit of a spoiler but not overkill. Keep it up
Wife is working very hard! Will let her know haha! Thank you
Well done on the bolt, I thought it would have been galled the threads.
Some years ago I had the unfortunate problem with a garage over tightening wheel nuts but to their credit they sent a young man (on his way home from work) with a 3ft breaker bar and slackened them off. Ever since I have invested in breaker bars of various sizes ad have not had the problem again.
My BMW did the same thing on both front wheels all bolts and 2 of the rear bolts too. Nuematic impact couldnt shift it. We had a snapon lever bar with a 2m scaffold pole and finally they cracked. Good job snapon has a lifetime warranty.
Love the click of a torque wrench 😍
Euro car parts - strikes again! Also, we asume the wheel bolts were gunned on, but BMW, Range rover and Ford seem to suffer with bolts/nuts seizing on even when torqued properly.
That first tyre is bold on the BMW mate!
Just found your channel. Addicted to watch your vids mate! Proper grafter. I also watch Kevin Williams mobile clutch videos. Have u seen his channel? He did my clutch in the summer
Thank you mate! Really appreciate that.
I watch him mate. He’s got good technique with clutch replacements. Good guy he is!
@@themarvelousvlog do u cover my area mate. I live near Guildford. My local garage has closed down and I hate servicing my insignia myself. The oil filter is so awkward to get to!
@@leecaddick8502yes they do
We do mate. If you need anything, contact us via our email
Does that not suck, having to make a purchase and then you’re caught by surprise…hope they understand…great video
I always replace the discs at the same time as the pads. My theory is that over time with both pad and disc wear, the pistons are pushed further out giving more opportunity for rust and dirt to take their toll on the seals. I have never had to replace a caliper using this method in over 20 years.
Totally agree with this mate!
Bit excessive if you ask me to change both at the same time
Given how soft the pads are compared to the discs
I've ran through set of pads without any wear at all to the discs
But each to there own
We don't all have massive bank accounts 😂
You can use a caliper to meausre the wear on the discs. 2mm worn, then new set of discs required. Usually on my car, second set of pads requires new set of discs. A couple of MM won't make much difference to the piston!
I have a Vauxhall insignia which the engine oil got over filled and caused the same run away issue but I didn’t need to replace the engine I took out the intercooler and cleaned it properly and make sure no excessive oil was else where and put new oil and filter after and the car has been running absolutely fine ever since
This one is shafted unfortunately mate. Turning the crank by hand causes a bottom end knock, and you can unfortunately feel it too!
there is a specialist socket set kit that is designed to remove rounded bolts very very easily all you need is a decent cordless drill to create the special contact head on the rounded bolt. and get your self a small impact gun instead of relying on breaker bars for stuff like that.. The impacts are what loosen it gradually when bolts are seized intill they actually start rotating out the thread.
Makes me laugh-people with these luxury cars,cant even afford to repair em right 😆
I see you say you only use quality parts, what brand parts are best ? Brembo and pagid for brakes, whats best for coil springs, control arms, clutches.
That 15:10 is mad! Garages should have a live UA-cam feed for the oil changing and service bay so customers can view the change / service live. They will smash it if they did and they can use it for the video ads to get local customers and you can charge extra £20 for having it making you extra £500 a week.
Very brilliant idea. Might add this to my list 😂
Fantastic idea I think, and they will defo pay extra £20 for that@@themarvelousvlog
Actually a good way to loosen a overtightened wheel nut is with a short hollow brace. Put it on at 90° and stamp on the end with your heel.
Euro car parts is a last resort for me now days, GSF and autodoc etc first call for me. Had an impact monkey strip the thread out of a calliper carrier bracket on my 7 series (done at a BMW garage) and then was also servicing a pick up and barely got the sump plug out to find the copper washer split in two it was so tight. Laziness and incompetence in equal measure at some places.
As I prefer to buy the parts the garages need to fit, I've stopped using ECP/GSF. Most parts aren't in stock, if it is, then it's usually chinese branded parts. Parts In Motion are my preferred supplier now. Decent prices, next day delivery and they stock top brands.
On about Torquing as well. like forums, car groups, enthusiasts are guilty everywhere of showing how to guides for their car but never mentioning how much to torque bolts and fittings in or just cutting away portions of video how they took something apart and put back together again. People appreciate if you show every step and every detail so some mechanic later on doesn't have to struggle with a botched Diy job.
The only thing that i have ever bought from ECP that fitted first time, and i didnt have to go back and change it, was a rear wiper blade
The last bloke to put that wheel bolt in used all the uggaduggas. The overfilled oil had me thinking, did he not understand about oil change?..
I don’t see it often but I’ve seen it enough 😅
I'm sure being shafted by a local cowboy garage for an oil change is still cheaper then a new engine! Lesson learned, maybe not 🤣
Definitely not cheaper but they’d rather take the risk than take it to their locals. Just says a lot about the garages there really…
Bollocks any person who owns 2 balls can do oil service the guy done more to that engine 100% 🎉
I find it hard to believe that the major reason this bloke did the diy "service" is because he was worried about getting fleeced! Surely if he can afford that kind of car he can take it to a decent dealership? Or maybe just view trusted ratings of garages in the local area? Fucking hell words fail me!
@@themarvelousvlog Except there shouldn't really be much risk in doing an oil change! It's not rocket science. It had never occurred to me that anyone could fuck it up quite that badly.
I was stranded recently due to a " locking wheelnut" for more than 7 hours. The RAC man tried for half an hour then left me stranded. Eventually I got my car to my mechanic and with some persuasion with a hammer & cold chisel it came off in less than 60 seconds . I ALWAYS change my crap locknuts for a normal bolt from now on .
The previous mechanic must'v used the PORSCHE torque spec on those wheel nuts!! 😫
I've been looking after my cars for 20 years. Not suffered a mechanical failure yet and cars are serviced better than going to a garage. I've acquired most tools, buy oil in 20litre drums. 160,000 miles in my Mercedes over seven years was still on original turbo etc and rare manual on original clutch. Audi nearly on 100k now after 4 years and will keep for another 4. Gave up using ECP and GSF years ago when they stopped doing the TRW/Delphi/ATE parts and began to sell some crap instead. Theres the local motor factors that can get anything, Autodoc, partsinmotion, TPS and others.
With the Vw caddy you get that light come on (steering wheel ) when the battery been flat but that’s easy fix full lock left full lock right turn off turn on fixed just saying probably bmw ,s not the same .. great videos
I prefer the brembo grease over ceramic grease for sliding pins.
Glad you don't work on my cars. Brembo grease is only for side and back of pads not the pins.
Try penetrating oil spray for bolts like this, it makes it a lot easier.
Worked for ECP and always ask the customers to check the parts before leaving the shop or before the delivery van goes away. The returns department are atrocious
I know someone who had a insignia 2.0cdti and the service indicator tells you oil quality left it read 10% of life left, customer assumed that there was only 10% oil left in the engine so went to Halfords and worked out how much to ADD 😅 of course it ran away 😂
No way! 😂😅
Love watching your channel :). Do you come as far as Aylesbury ?
Yes we do mate! If you need to get in-touch, our email and phone number is in the description!
Thank you! 🫡
I wouldn’t fit padgid to push pram and always check your parts before you leave the shop . School boy stuff 👍🏻
What's wrong with Pagid ? Many BMW places only fit Pagid.
When I had my brakes done On my Audi A3 8p1 2.0tfsi quattro, I replaced the pads/disc/ heat protector/brake fluid, and two new callipers. I then went on a diet lol
Such a shame the owner of that car couldn't trust the local mechanics, but I know how he feels as there are some appalling mechanics that are allowed to just get away with it. I had a bad experience with Halfords Service Centre mechanics in the 1990s and it seems nothing has changed. I would trust Marvelous Cars though, you do a great job keeping peoples cars serviced and repaired, good on you.
To stop a runaway diesel, just plug the intake. Diesel may not need spark but still needs air to run
True, or stand on the brakes (in gear). Yours is probably easier, assuming you can get to it.
Why didnt the owner just go back to Halfords and let them sort the issue they created!???
I hate how theres mechanics out their who are dodgy we defo need more honest people to open their own garages 💯💯💯
Shocking how many garages don't torque the nuts and just over tighten with the impact.
Well done and with some humor too...i am a DIYer could you say where you get those soes and pants...i like them
There's me panicking when I'm. overfill my van by 100ml and drain it out 🤣
Brother, if you were in Glasgow, I would be getting you to repair and service my cars. You actually give some f's and care about the quality of your work.
Worked on a sprinter once, only a couple years old and the customer come had it recovered in and it wasn't starting after he'd changed the oil. So I drained the oil into a 20l drum and a 5l drum. He didnt even drain the oil just added another 12.5l. Couldn't afford the engine so the van went to copart.
I would’ve taken that van. I need a new van tbf 😂
Hi mate I love watching ur video, do u cover east London?
Only 3 brake pads who filled that box , this is why I always open and check parts before I leave the shop and I always use a half inch breaker bar on wheel bolts
Hi pal just sub,for a young man your a very good machinc great content cheers 😊
I would have replaced my discs on that E83, however I do not replace them if they are within the min thichness and not grooved etc..
Big up from Scotland
Often times rear calipers esp with standard paring brake(not EPB), reguire not just pushing back but rather pushing and screwing in - not sure whether it applies to this BMW X3 but it could be also a reason why you couldn't compress the caliper pistons back.
I tried both, just tough nut mate. You can also see corrosion around the piston when you remove the boot anyway. Definitely done for
Why would you fill entire engine without draining old one now this guy deserves Oscar 😅
The Ingenium Evoque - don't worry too much- it would have destroyed itself if the owner hadn't ! I've seen these dead before 40,000 miles purely from how crap they are.
I know how the guy feels about not trusting any mechanics, I am the same. I do what work I can myself if I can be bothered. I have never done an oil change, which is one of the easiest things to do if you have the right equipment. Last oil change, I had the auxiliary belt changed, and the guy forgot to tighten one bolt, resulting in the belt coming off and shredding after 40 miles. He tells me I need to replace the guide pulley. I bought a new belt, changed it myself without replacing the guide pulley, and so far I've done 4000 miles and it hasn't come off.
That is one reason won’t let I will not let tyre centres tighten my wheel nuts I do them myself and torque them up for this reason
Totally agree mate
Dude it looks super cold, i can never stay in the UK 🥶
Thank you great videos
Oh dear, I bet that guy with the over filled land rover was gutted when you told him what was wrong 😮