"Yes, Karl was great in so man fashion-centric ways, but as a person he never seemed to develop kindness, open-mindedness and love. And so I question whether there was ever a 'line of beauty'. Not in his tweed suits, his fur jackets or his pen strokes, but in his heart and his mind" Oof, hitting the nail right on the head.
No, he didn’t hit anything on the head, refusing to acknowledge someone’s artistic prowess because you don’t like what they did or said is pure idiocy. You’re anti art if you think this, an enemy of beauty.
Totally agree, although I thought he was going to say he questioned the idea of having Lagerfeld be the theme of the whole gala. In that moment I was a bit shocked but respectful of Luke. (Not that I’m not still)
You need more recognition from the fashion industry. You are informed, insightful, and inspiring! This piece is an excellent example of how serious you are about fashion, fashion history and all the players. Incredible journalism!
Excellent overview of a very long and varied career. I believe you struck a good balance between the story of his fashion and corresponding zeitgeist but including his misogyny, fat shaming and racism. Thank you.
Nothing against the work of Lagerfeld, but I wish they'd chosen instead to pay tribute to Vivienne Westwood. When I think icon, among other descriptors, I think of someone who transcends the boundaries of their field. While the punk aesthetic was not her invention, you can't mistake a Westwood look for anyone else's.
Miss thing I can clearly see that you have 0 knowledge. Vivienne died in December 2022, do you really think they plan the Met Gala only 5 months ahead? It takes almost a year. Maybe she will be honored in a couple of years….
I love how this video essay really stayed on the topic of the work and the fashion and was not centered around the man. Your video essays are truly some of my favorites. The work and research are obviously there and I just love your personality.
I agree!! Karl may not have been the most pleasant person and definitely have said some things I don’t agree with, but it’s important to separate the artist from their art sometimes. He really was special.
Me too! His work in the industry was not a statement on his controversial views (as far as I’m aware) and it changed and influenced fashion in important and unique ways that are worth examining. :)
Thank you for this amazing video! I’m a plus sized giant of a woman who is obsessed with collecting vintage Chanel from backwater places around the world (I’m a designer thrifting fiend haha). It will never fit me, it was never designed to fit me. Karl would have hated me and likely so would Coco Chanel herself. But I love it. I love the sordid history, the excellent quality, the house codes…. Everything! And yes, the knowledge that my collecting of these pieces in a ‘budget’ manner (for designer anyway) would make them turn over in their graves is slightly delightful 😂 Thank you again! Love your videos and your research! Your videos are always amazing!
Luke isnt a student of fashion he is a student of history as always love how his in depth coverage of one person can turn into a full fledged history of European fashion houses ❤
In regards to his parents being Nazis, his father actively hated the Nazis and only joined after he was forced to to save his business. Meanwhile, his mother actually chose to join the Nazis very early on because they kind of told people that thye just wanted to run germany with a strong hand, which she believed in. However, shortly after Karl was born, Hitler began killing jewish people and she realised her mistake at joining the party. She kept her distain secret, then kept her gay and jewish friends covert and interest in books from both groups hidden so not to bring attention to themselves. But she didn't hide this from Karl, and he knew that the Nazis were bad even from a young age (source: Paradise Now, 2023)
for the record, I‘m german and we‘re all sons and daughters of nazis. nowadays a lot of people talk like there was only a small group of really bad nazis suppressing the german civilization like they were the victims - while the real victims were the ones killed in the genozide and war. people have to accept the fact that in voting for hitler, supporting his party (for whatever reason) and doing nothing against him makes their parents and grandparents the bad guys too. denying this is straight up delusional and dangerous. (Not accusing you of that, just wanted to add this)
It's understandable... but we're all responsible for things happening in the world currently if not for actively participating then for passively letting it happen. Now not everyone has politically prominence nor dedicates themselves to humanitarian causes but that doesn't spare responsibility. Yes some people feel they're only responsible for themselves but I believe we're part of society as a whole. We benefit from it, it's not like we live in a vacuum. So, if we engage with society (which almost everyone does constantly) and we reap benefits some way or another then we're responsible for perpetuating the status quo and therefore doing a disservice to those who are oppressed and abused. I am not saying I am Amal Clooney. I put myself in there as well I just remind myself of my privileges and work on ways to make better choices that benefit as many as possible when possible.
Seems like the Germans have a very sincere apologetic attitude still today for that very reason (the people who stood by and let it happen), correct? If I remember they have very strict policies in place to prevent anything similar from ever happening again. Not disagreeing here, just adding what I’ve heard is the current/modern attitude. I’m not German this is just what I’ve picked up so I’m sure I could be wrong.
@@estherbjerga523 I have a friend who's German and for sure it seems to me it's a big cultural learning for then. Seems like a sensitive subject in the sense of the understanding of it's magnitude. That's impressive to me coming from Latin America where horrible things happen and for some reason life goes on and history repeats itself... Baffles me why patterns get repeated. One thing I notice is the problem with making it taboo. So nobody talks about it let alone how to prevent it or repairing consequences.
This is absolutely fascinating. I'm not a fashion girl but I love to learn interesting things about interesting people and you are a compelling and engaging storyteller. Sitting here in my work swag sweatshirt and old pajama pants, nodding and muttering in agreement as you describe Karl's background and come-up as a designer in his own right. I stop everything for Luke when he's got something to learn me.
The reality is, KL was not a great designer. He was not YSL, Givenchy, Dior, Balenciaga, Gres, Mainbocher. All of those amazing men and women were his contemporaries and he could not hold a candle to them. He designs were not spectacular or iconic. What Lagerfeld was, was prolific and he created this character that the public became fascinated with. Even younger designers like the late genius McQueen and the great Galliano made his designs look mediocre and ridiculous. Personally, I would rather the honor of an exhibit go to the late Dame Westwood. Her clothes were thought provoking and challenging. I think it’s also very important to mention and not minimize KL’s history of making racist comments, disparaging people because of their weight and his cruelty towards Andre Leon Talley for making an innocent suggestion that saw Talley being banished from the rarified world of fashion. Truly a despicable man who does not deserve this tribute.
I think the thing about Karl is that he took such a prestigious house and an iconic look and revamped it, it was something not many would’ve done, specially given the prestige Chanel had and still has today. I do think that there are much more deserving fashion icons that should’ve been the inspiration, such as Vivienne Westwood or even do another Gala inspired in the works of Alexander McQueen! But I guess that because he had such close ties with Anna, she decided to pay homage to her late friend Karl
Chanel itself is underwhelming and boring, all exciting parts aren't due to his designs but impeccable craftsmanship of the embroiderers, seamstresses, pleaters and accessory designers. Besides introducing logos and logomania, Chanel didn't do anything iconic for it's run. Can you recall a particular collection? I can draw Galliano, McQueen, Margiela, original YSl , Balmain, Madame Gres, Balenciaga from memory pretty accurately, as most fashion people. Name one iconic, unique design of Karl (no, not Chanel's boxy tweed suit( , a collection that influenced fashion in different way than introducing commercial logos. I'll wait.
I don't know how you managed to make a topic I'm not even the slightest bit interested in so fascinating, but I was absolutely hooked. your story telling is phenomenal!
Amazing research so detailed. I knew quite a lot about his upbringing since I was also born in Hamburg, Germany and had seen Karl Lagergeld being interviewed in many hamburg based late night talk shows during his lifetime. He was always a mystery to Germans to French people I think to everyone but so talented. One of my memories of him bringing his sketchbooks everywhere and non stop drawing new peoples and ideas.
In terms of Chanel, they had been after Karl for a really long time, they offered him the role several times, but he only went over to Chanel after they agreed to double his salary and give him all of his requirements (like starting the archive of work) for him to start. Obviously it was a good bet for the Wertheimers, but it was a risk at the time and it took a good few people to convince them to go with Karl, at least until Alain met with Karl in his apartment and really understood his brilliance
very interested to see how some of the confirmed guests will dress tonight given his history of fatphobia, racism, and misogyny.... always appreciate your breakdowns luke!
@Nondocumentary Channel i mean it's not like he used black/yellow face for one of his campaigns in 2010, or the fact that he heavily criticized the migrant crisis in germany with a good dash of anti-semitism or islamophobia or anything! not to mention that his family was closer to the nazi party than you may think...
You did an excellent, well researched presentation which could be used in any design classroom. The depth and bredth of his knowledge of fashion was unmatched. I hope his extensive library will remain complete and maybe opened to students of fashion and design.
Absolutely stellar video as always! I love the timeline research and the way you flowed all the details, literally and finishing on a note on human behavior. Cant get enough of your videos for years now. As someone obsessed with fashion, art and their history its always pleasant to see someone who loves it as much as i do ❤👏🏾
Possibly the best fashion analysis / review / critique vlog that exists today. Bravo!! As a fashion girl and former editor, I appreciate this with my whole heart! Looking forward to your Met Gala review.
Even though your summary at the end was short, it was very powerful and intelligent. As someone who is on the chubby side, interested in the art and history of fashion but often repelled by the the industry and some of its prominent figures I am thankful for people like you, who are intelligent and sharp and at the same time gentle and kind- bravo!
I love these kinds of longer videos. I can tell that a lot of time and research went into creating this because it was so informative. I also love that you included the more controversial points because it's so easy to ignore the negative aspects of someone that is incredibly talented!
How UTTERLY fascinating. Hearing how connected Karl was to other cultural icons like Warhol is mind-boggling. I forget that culture today stems entirely from these early connections between artists and the after effect of their relationships. It's really insightful and inspirational to hear these cultural histories- makes me wonder if I'll ever cross over with future creative pioneers in the years to come! Such a lovely, well-researched video and presented in your usual effortless cadence! SLAY
I love these historical travels through the lives and careers of designers. This a good reminder, that a talented designer will send their line down a runway with echoes of their personality and their history for good or bad. In the discussion of separating the art from the artist, I have not found an answer that applies to all cases. I guess we just need to keep having that discussion, especially when the art is present. Thank you to Luke for issuing this timely and well-prepared video.
Thank you for this tutorial on the Lagerfeld history. I have never had this reference of theme BEFORE the Met Gala before. Can’t wait to watch coverage of this years Gala and your review soon after. I really enjoy your videos!
I just finished read Andrè Leon Talley's The Chifgon Trenches where he talks a great deal about Karl Largerfield and their friendship. I've never known much about him except when he lost a phenomenal ammount of weight. Really love this presentation!
Thank you for the well researched history lesson. I might have enjoyed history classes more if you had been teaching. I wonder if we knew the thoughts, beliefs and remarks of the owners or inventors of products we love, would we still use the products or go to the restaurants, etc. Most we will never know.
I felt like I was watching a college class on this topic! You did an amazing job at this! I hope you get to write down “college professor” on resume of yours one day! So happy to see you doing amazing!
Your research and work that went into this presentation is so encompassing and thorough that I whish it could have been longer and that you could have spoken a little slower so I could have absorbed it better. I will definitely watch it again. Great work.
When de Bascher became hospitalised in I think 1987 (but the dates arent confirmed that I could tell) Karl created a military cot for himself in the Raymond Poincaré University Hospital so he could spend as much time with jacques as possible beofre his death in 89. But through all this time, despite what his fashion houses offered, he never missed a collection, never made a less intensive or successful collection either. Even during the time afterwards, when he spend the christmas and new years in his chateaux with Andre Leon Talley, who was also grieving after the death of his mother, he would lock himself away alone in his studio to sketch and sketch, still never taking a day's break. He was very affected by his own inability to stop working and it worried ALT a lot
No you wouldnt. Because the designs have to be accepted by wintour. She has no problem with saying no. And no issue with having people removed. But it will never be an issue. You will never be invited.
What an incredibly informative & detail-rich piece of art you have created here. I highly appreciate the incredible work you put into detailing the history of Karl's professional & personal life; I've not seen anything like it. Your understanding of the fashion industry and appreciation for the nitty gritty of its history makes this a fascinating watch. Thank you so, so much for this, and for everything you do.
I remember a life time living in a small Australian country town and still gorging on whatever Karl Lagerfeld. Oh the Fendi days, I was seen as the freak. Finding clothes on family holidays that no one was wearing at home. Leading up to actually living and marrying French, I was so in love with what Mr Lagerfeld was up, what little I could afford going to pieces that came my way. I’m excited
I can't imagine how long this would have taken to research. Thank you, thank you Luke for a wonderfully detailed but still focussed video. This is exactly what I needed before consuming MET gala coverage. I love the bitchy and the funny moments of your other videos but 100 percent appreciate the thought and execution put into this one. I hope everyone else appreciates this as much as I do!
I really like Karl. I think some of best looks were in the 90s. He really made Channel fresh. I also like his work when he was designing for Nicole Kidman. Both advertisements and movie themes. I dont love everything but he had moments of brilliance. I liked more of thecMet Gala looks this year than i have in the past few.
even though Karl had said many "inappropriate" or even "mean" speeches.....but Karl did had "influence" so many young generations of fashioner lovers and me......Karl had made "FASHION" so "FASHION" that no one did......and Karl did put thousands & thousands of people to have jobs in so many decades......I will live with what Karl had been such a "HUGE INFLUENCER" in fashion and me and what Karl "inappropriate" speeches all blend together......LONG LIVE KARL...... 回覆
Excellent job covering the long career. So much content, so little pics. I live for your pics with descriptions. In all fairness, it would have taken a few 1000 pics to cover everything you talked about and taken a year to put together. Huge fan. Can't wait to see your review of the 2023 Met Gala.
Wow Luke! Thank you I really enjoyed this post. I found it truly entertaining and informative from start to finish, well done. Now I am actually looking forward to the Met Gala and your take on it. 😊
I love it when you do these deep dives! They provide insight on what I can hopefully expect in the Met Gala. Hope there will be 2 parts in the Met Gala review!
fashion for a longtime was a privileged era. For a long time in working class, fields like fashion weren't seen as serious of respectable. It's because of designers like Karl, among others, who made a success in that field and became famous that it became attractive and seen as serious by the general public. And he obviously succeeded because of his talent. We are talking about late 50's/60's. Some things cannot be seen with the eyes of today.
Thank you so much , Luke , for all your hard work and research. I enjoyed this video so much. I’m a long time subscriber from Huntsville,Alabama. I most certainly am here for your Roast & Review videos but also love it when you teach me more about fashion which I’ve always been drawn to even as a young girl. I can’t wait to see your review of the Gala , for you I Stan! 🖤
Wow, Luke! That was amazing! So thorough, interesting, and concise. Loved all the images and footage you were able to put together. I learn so much from you; this video was very well done. Thank you!!
Very very well done. Thorough, unflinching, precise and concise. You synthesized a great deal of info in this video essay. You're a great communicator.
Damn. This was awesome. Watched every second of it, making sure to pause when I needed to make my morning coffee. LOVE these full life essays of these designers lives. I can't imagine the work you did to put this all together. Would watch every one if you did them for all the great houses/designers. A wonderful and well displayed description. Thank you for your efforts and I hope this gets referenced & acknowledged over time.
This is why I love your channel. You did the work of going through his remarkable designs while not shying away from the uncomfortable truth of the person himself. Thank you for making this.
I wasn’t thinking the only thing we’d be seeing at 2023 of the Met Gala, Karl Lagerfeld, A Line of Beauty would be the ever chic Chanel Skirt Suits, you have just given me a massive swarm of butterflies 🦋 and what we can expect to see. Will we be gifted a visual feast of all the years of Karl. Choupette will of course be watching over with the coolness that comes with Cats and somewhat something of a Muse herself. Cannot wait to gorge your take on the fashion game. This could be EVERYTHING we’ve been waiting for since Camp Notes on Fashion. Pretty please invites gild yourself to the zenith degree of fabulousness of the greatest Man of Fashion in forever. I can’t wait Haute and I’m here for the long build up. Pshaw to nay sayers, everyone in history can be judged by every person that owns a phone. Karl deserves this night. I loved this build up. Please let the attendees be glorious ♥️♥️♥️
I've always liked your videos, but they've improved so much! The editing feels much more professional now, and your research and commentary feel really thorough and coherent.
Excellent commentary and insight! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge! One can learn so much for passionate experts. Thank you for all of your time and efforts to share and educate!
Karl was a child during WW2. Hugo Boss wasn't. He outfitted the Nazis & only publicly acknowledged their key role in WW2 in 2009. Lest We Forget. It's a phrase used at WW memorials.
Listen... as an older writer / vintage fashion collector (already collecting 20s stuff in the 70s!!! as a kid!!) (and demeulemeester (only her early work, 2004, etc) and with many comrades in the fashion world in nyc, during 80s / 90s and 2000 (not anymore!) I want to say this: YOUR WORK IS AMAZING. Just YOU showing the CHLOE work of LAGERFELD is incredibly helpful to all of us still learning.. and trust me.. this 50 something being still learns every single freaking day!! I love love how you made this video and your incredible commentary and study and research and take on LAGERFELD. I adored him! No matter what... people make mistakes in life.. by "saying" things.. and trust me ALL OF US CHANGE.. I am 100% Lagerfeld meant what he said at the time but 100% he did "turn around" as WE ALL DO.. WE ALL DO!! Upon realization... his great "assistant" but i would more call him a CONFIDENTE AND GUARDIAN ANGEL was SEBASTIAN JONDEAU and he came from a middle east background.. As Dorothy Day said, "We are all better than the worst thing we have done in our life." I know he was a wealthy powerhouse, but from all the reading / talking to people i have done.. HE WAS SUPER GENEROUS and GRACIOUS... and woooooow.. a TALENT in drawing.. in sooo much!! I respect your work and this video is tremendous... thank you for all the looking inot the archives.. i never saw the CHLOE work 70s.. and i'm obsessed now.. thanks thanks thanks
You did a fantastic job, with keeping this video on the fashion accomplishments for the different houses, his sketching and earlier life. I was amazed at his earlier sketches, the details in the clothing and hats, and furs.
Thank You! I learned a lot from watching this video, I never knew his backstory, very disturbing and messy, his parents being Nazis 😮. His rivalry and love affairs, plus his biases. Very complicated person. 😘
Pretty much everyone in Germany was a member of the Nazi party at the time. If they weren't they were probably in a concentration camp or at risk of going to one.
I think it’s a possibility they joined the Nazi party as an act of self-preservation, still not honorable, but understandable. As they had money, why didn’t they escape Germany if they had the chance.
This was fascinating and educational. Phenomenal job. One thing I really like about you is that you are so knowledgeable and you just are so invested in fashion as an art form. It makes me love fashion, too. I also really love how, no matter how judgmental you are against the clothes (I am the same way), you never judge any one of the people you talk about for how they look. I grew up in the 90’s and it was completely normal to tear someone else’s appearance apart, especially if they were in the public eye. I love how respectful you are about that. Anyway this was thoroughly enjoyable, thank you for all the hard work I’m sure you did to put this all together!
Thank you for the time you put into this , it was very interesting and informative. I appreciate that you focused on his accomplishments in fashion and not on his flaws as a person. I think it shows that one can appreciate the art created by a person while not agreeing with the artists personal views and opinions.
Thank you for the care, effort and hours you put into this piece. It was so informative and timely. It also points out that a brilliant creative mind does not mean a brilliant moral person. We tend to glamourise people when we admire their work and that’s not always earned.
Congratulations Luke! You curated Karl’s fashion career excellently, he was one of fashions creative genius. But as a man he was all things you mentioned, all you have to do is Google him. I adored his work and as a make up artist he was an inspiration, but as a man his attitude towards life and people could never escape the family he was born into, Nazis’s and being born in Germany in WWII
My new yearly tradition is to look at all of the met gala outfits, then come to this channel and learn about the fashion, the theme and the history behind it. Then I go back and look at all the outfits again and see how what I have learnt from hautelemode has changed my opinions of the outfits. Mainly my opinion (of the outfits) changes for the better because what I thought was boring before I now see as on-theme or clever in its homage to the theme. THEN I come back here and watch all of the reviews of each outfit and see how my thoughts or feelings compare with Luke's.
At Patou he also was shown how to catelogue all his work and the houses history too, inlcuding fabrics and techniques. This was somethign Balmain did not do and simply wasnt common for the day, even Patou probably wouldnt have done it if it wasnt for the start of the company coinciding with the start of the first world war. He brought this through his career to other compnaies, most notably chanel, who by 85 still didnt have a comprehensive catalogue of their work, which he insisted on as one of his requirements for joining the failing (at the time) house
I loved the history and appreciate Yr time researching this topic. You did not stray away from the difficulties of the subject. Your summing up was brilliant. Thank you. Keep em coming.
I know it's a lot of work, but I would love to see more of the histories of brands or iconic designers. This was fascinating and I learnt a lot - thank you.
"Yes, Karl was great in so man fashion-centric ways, but as a person he never seemed to develop kindness, open-mindedness and love. And so I question whether there was ever a 'line of beauty'. Not in his tweed suits, his fur jackets or his pen strokes, but in his heart and his mind"
Oof, hitting the nail right on the head.
No, he didn’t hit anything on the head, refusing to acknowledge someone’s artistic prowess because you don’t like what they did or said is pure idiocy. You’re anti art if you think this, an enemy of beauty.
@@moricantos he created a whole hour long video dedicated to acknowledging Lagerfeld's artistic prowess... wtf are you on about?
@@moricantosI don’t think you understand how beauty works and what an ugly shadow can do
@@moricantos strawman, nobody insinuated that
Totally agree, although I thought he was going to say he questioned the idea of having Lagerfeld be the theme of the whole gala. In that moment I was a bit shocked but respectful of Luke. (Not that I’m not still)
It's like studying 30 min before the exam
lol
haha amazing
Script generated by AI, that's why.
@@snugglepuss2004 what do you mean?
@@snugglepuss2004 luke has been doing this stuff before chatgpt so hold your horses :)
You need more recognition from the fashion industry. You are informed, insightful, and inspiring!
This piece is an excellent example of how serious you are about fashion, fashion history and all the players.
Incredible journalism!
Excellent overview of a very long and varied career.
I believe you struck a good balance between the story of his fashion and corresponding zeitgeist but including his misogyny, fat shaming and racism.
Thank you.
He has recognition, he's on BoF's top 500 on the most influential people on fashion
Vogue recently featured him!!
@@anat7203 wait, where do all of this come from?
The script is obviously written by AI...
Nothing against the work of Lagerfeld, but I wish they'd chosen instead to pay tribute to Vivienne Westwood. When I think icon, among other descriptors, I think of someone who transcends the boundaries of their field. While the punk aesthetic was not her invention, you can't mistake a Westwood look for anyone else's.
Or Thierry Mugler would have been amzing too
Yes 🙌
Miss thing I can clearly see that you have 0 knowledge. Vivienne died in December 2022, do you really think they plan the Met Gala only 5 months ahead?
It takes almost a year. Maybe she will be honored in a couple of years….
Yeah and she never worked with a nazi informant
@@9N6-s2i no need to be bi*chy grow tf up. Not everyone knows who died when
I love how this video essay really stayed on the topic of the work and the fashion and was not centered around the man. Your video essays are truly some of my favorites. The work and research are obviously there and I just love your personality.
I agree!! Karl may not have been the most pleasant person and definitely have said some things I don’t agree with, but it’s important to separate the artist from their art sometimes. He really was special.
Me too! His work in the industry was not a statement on his controversial views (as far as I’m aware) and it changed and influenced fashion in important and unique ways that are worth examining. :)
Thank you for this amazing video!
I’m a plus sized giant of a woman who is obsessed with collecting vintage Chanel from backwater places around the world (I’m a designer thrifting fiend haha). It will never fit me, it was never designed to fit me. Karl would have hated me and likely so would Coco Chanel herself. But I love it. I love the sordid history, the excellent quality, the house codes…. Everything!
And yes, the knowledge that my collecting of these pieces in a ‘budget’ manner (for designer anyway) would make them turn over in their graves is slightly delightful 😂
Thank you again! Love your videos and your research! Your videos are always amazing!
And also you are here alive and they are both buried and getting closer to their own aesthetic ideals 💅
Luke isnt a student of fashion he is a student of history as always love how his in depth coverage of one person can turn into a full fledged history of European fashion houses ❤
In regards to his parents being Nazis, his father actively hated the Nazis and only joined after he was forced to to save his business. Meanwhile, his mother actually chose to join the Nazis very early on because they kind of told people that thye just wanted to run germany with a strong hand, which she believed in. However, shortly after Karl was born, Hitler began killing jewish people and she realised her mistake at joining the party. She kept her distain secret, then kept her gay and jewish friends covert and interest in books from both groups hidden so not to bring attention to themselves. But she didn't hide this from Karl, and he knew that the Nazis were bad even from a young age (source: Paradise Now, 2023)
Thanks for sharing this (and for citing the source)
They were Nazis.
for the record, I‘m german and we‘re all sons and daughters of nazis. nowadays a lot of people talk like there was only a small group of really bad nazis suppressing the german civilization like they were the victims - while the real victims were the ones killed in the genozide and war. people have to accept the fact that in voting for hitler, supporting his party (for whatever reason) and doing nothing against him makes their parents and grandparents the bad guys too. denying this is straight up delusional and dangerous. (Not accusing you of that, just wanted to add this)
People seem to forget many were just trying to protect their families and survive.
It's understandable... but we're all responsible for things happening in the world currently if not for actively participating then for passively letting it happen. Now not everyone has politically prominence nor dedicates themselves to humanitarian causes but that doesn't spare responsibility. Yes some people feel they're only responsible for themselves but I believe we're part of society as a whole. We benefit from it, it's not like we live in a vacuum. So, if we engage with society (which almost everyone does constantly) and we reap benefits some way or another then we're responsible for perpetuating the status quo and therefore doing a disservice to those who are oppressed and abused. I am not saying I am Amal Clooney. I put myself in there as well I just remind myself of my privileges and work on ways to make better choices that benefit as many as possible when possible.
Seems like the Germans have a very sincere apologetic attitude still today for that very reason (the people who stood by and let it happen), correct? If I remember they have very strict policies in place to prevent anything similar from ever happening again. Not disagreeing here, just adding what I’ve heard is the current/modern attitude. I’m not German this is just what I’ve picked up so I’m sure I could be wrong.
@@estherbjerga523 I have a friend who's German and for sure it seems to me it's a big cultural learning for then. Seems like a sensitive subject in the sense of the understanding of it's magnitude. That's impressive to me coming from Latin America where horrible things happen and for some reason life goes on and history repeats itself... Baffles me why patterns get repeated. One thing I notice is the problem with making it taboo. So nobody talks about it let alone how to prevent it or repairing consequences.
This is absolutely fascinating. I'm not a fashion girl but I love to learn interesting things about interesting people and you are a compelling and engaging storyteller. Sitting here in my work swag sweatshirt and old pajama pants, nodding and muttering in agreement as you describe Karl's background and come-up as a designer in his own right. I stop everything for Luke when he's got something to learn me.
The reality is, KL was not a great designer. He was not YSL, Givenchy, Dior, Balenciaga, Gres, Mainbocher. All of those amazing men and women were his contemporaries and he could not hold a candle to them. He designs were not spectacular or iconic. What Lagerfeld was, was prolific and he created this character that the public became fascinated with. Even younger designers like the late genius McQueen and the great Galliano made his designs look mediocre and ridiculous. Personally, I would rather the honor of an exhibit go to the late Dame Westwood. Her clothes were thought provoking and challenging. I think it’s also very important to mention and not minimize KL’s history of making racist comments, disparaging people because of their weight and his cruelty towards Andre Leon Talley for making an innocent suggestion that saw Talley being banished from the rarified world of fashion. Truly a despicable man who does not deserve this tribute.
I think the thing about Karl is that he took such a prestigious house and an iconic look and revamped it, it was something not many would’ve done, specially given the prestige Chanel had and still has today.
I do think that there are much more deserving fashion icons that should’ve been the inspiration, such as Vivienne Westwood or even do another Gala inspired in the works of Alexander McQueen! But I guess that because he had such close ties with Anna, she decided to pay homage to her late friend Karl
Boy are you wrong
@@eileenmcdonald1599 No I’m not. There’s nothing extraordinary about Lagerfeld.
Thanks for the trivial opinion from peanut gallery
Chanel itself is underwhelming and boring, all exciting parts aren't due to his designs but impeccable craftsmanship of the embroiderers, seamstresses, pleaters and accessory designers. Besides introducing logos and logomania, Chanel didn't do anything iconic for it's run. Can you recall a particular collection? I can draw Galliano, McQueen, Margiela, original YSl , Balmain, Madame Gres, Balenciaga from memory pretty accurately, as most fashion people. Name one iconic, unique design of Karl (no, not Chanel's boxy tweed suit( , a collection that influenced fashion in different way than introducing commercial logos. I'll wait.
I don't know how you managed to make a topic I'm not even the slightest bit interested in so fascinating, but I was absolutely hooked. your story telling is phenomenal!
Amazing research so detailed. I knew quite a lot about his upbringing since I was also born in Hamburg, Germany and had seen Karl Lagergeld being interviewed in many hamburg based late night talk shows during his lifetime. He was always a mystery to Germans to French people I think to everyone but so talented. One of my memories of him bringing his sketchbooks everywhere and non stop drawing new peoples and ideas.
In terms of Chanel, they had been after Karl for a really long time, they offered him the role several times, but he only went over to Chanel after they agreed to double his salary and give him all of his requirements (like starting the archive of work) for him to start. Obviously it was a good bet for the Wertheimers, but it was a risk at the time and it took a good few people to convince them to go with Karl, at least until Alain met with Karl in his apartment and really understood his brilliance
omg understitch
Love your video on Karl too!
@@laural4177 Thank you so much
very interested to see how some of the confirmed guests will dress tonight given his history of fatphobia, racism, and misogyny.... always appreciate your breakdowns luke!
Read em, chile!!!!!
It'd not Fatphobia
@Nondocumentary Channel i mean it's not like he used black/yellow face for one of his campaigns in 2010, or the fact that he heavily criticized the migrant crisis in germany with a good dash of anti-semitism or islamophobia or anything! not to mention that his family was closer to the nazi party than you may think...
@@gayoonkim6790 His parents were members of the party from what I understand.
You did an excellent, well researched presentation which could be used in any design classroom. The depth and bredth of his knowledge of fashion was unmatched. I hope his extensive library will remain complete and maybe opened to students of fashion and design.
Excellent documentary, extremely well written, intelligent, evenhanded, and quite enjoyable. You’ve gotten up a few notches with this one.
Love your wording of this feedback!
most information here taken from an early documentary called life and death of Karl Lagerfelfd came out 11 days ago by understitch here in you Tube.
Absolutely stellar video as always! I love the timeline research and the way you flowed all the details, literally and finishing on a note on human behavior. Cant get enough of your videos for years now. As someone obsessed with fashion, art and their history its always pleasant to see someone who loves it as much as i do ❤👏🏾
can't wait for your reviews of this year's Met (hoping there will be serves this year)
Possibly the best fashion analysis / review / critique vlog that exists today. Bravo!! As a fashion girl and former editor, I appreciate this with my whole heart! Looking forward to your Met Gala review.
I truly enjoy learning from your videos. You give background and depth to fashion🥰
Even though your summary at the end was short, it was very powerful and intelligent. As someone who is on the chubby side, interested in the art and history of fashion but often repelled by the the industry and some of its prominent figures I am thankful for people like you, who are intelligent and sharp and at the same time gentle and kind- bravo!
I love these kinds of longer videos. I can tell that a lot of time and research went into creating this because it was so informative. I also love that you included the more controversial points because it's so easy to ignore the negative aspects of someone that is incredibly talented!
This was so good, Luke. We can all tell you worked so hard on this - so thoughtful, informative and helpful. Much respect and gratitude!
So eloquent, so thoughtful, so researched. Thank you so much. This is a masterpiece
Why am I obsessed with the Fendi sister's names. Paola, Alda, Franca, Carla, Anna - what a cool set of names!!
How UTTERLY fascinating. Hearing how connected Karl was to other cultural icons like Warhol is mind-boggling. I forget that culture today stems entirely from these early connections between artists and the after effect of their relationships. It's really insightful and inspirational to hear these cultural histories- makes me wonder if I'll ever cross over with future creative pioneers in the years to come! Such a lovely, well-researched video and presented in your usual effortless cadence! SLAY
I love these historical travels through the lives and careers of designers. This a good reminder, that a talented designer will send their line down a runway with echoes of their personality and their history for good or bad. In the discussion of separating the art from the artist, I have not found an answer that applies to all cases. I guess we just need to keep having that discussion, especially when the art is present. Thank you to Luke for issuing this timely and well-prepared video.
NOW? dude i have to watch this 1.25x speed 😭😭
i’m so sorry 😭😭😭
2x 😭
@@hautelemode well I’m watching it all at 1* speed
1.5x worked well
Meticulously researched and written… wonderful delivery too. So enjoyable and informative. Merci!
Thank you for this tutorial on the Lagerfeld history. I have never had this reference of theme BEFORE the Met Gala before. Can’t wait to watch coverage of this years Gala and your review soon after. I really enjoy your videos!
These videos are jam-packed with info, thanks for all your hard work researching, it's very useful for us ! ☺️💖🙌
This video is exceptional! Loved every second. So informative while still being fun to watch. Thank you♥️ regards from Germany
I just finished read Andrè Leon Talley's The Chifgon Trenches where he talks a great deal about Karl Largerfield and their friendship. I've never known much about him except when he lost a phenomenal ammount of weight. Really love this presentation!
Thank you for the well researched history lesson. I might have enjoyed history classes more if you had been teaching. I wonder if we knew the thoughts, beliefs and remarks of the owners or inventors of products we love, would we still use the products or go to the restaurants, etc. Most we will never know.
I felt like I was watching a college class on this topic! You did an amazing job at this! I hope you get to write down “college professor” on resume of yours one day! So happy to see you doing amazing!
Your research and work that went into this presentation is so encompassing and thorough that I whish it could have been longer and that you could have spoken a little slower so I could have absorbed it better. I will definitely watch it again. Great work.
When de Bascher became hospitalised in I think 1987 (but the dates arent confirmed that I could tell) Karl created a military cot for himself in the Raymond Poincaré University Hospital so he could spend as much time with jacques as possible beofre his death in 89. But through all this time, despite what his fashion houses offered, he never missed a collection, never made a less intensive or successful collection either. Even during the time afterwards, when he spend the christmas and new years in his chateaux with Andre Leon Talley, who was also grieving after the death of his mother, he would lock himself away alone in his studio to sketch and sketch, still never taking a day's break. He was very affected by his own inability to stop working and it worried ALT a lot
I would totally go to this Met dressed as Andre Leon Talley in protest.
This event is planned with some aspects YEARS in advance. They WILL get "around" to Andre in time.
No you wouldnt. Because the designs have to be accepted by wintour. She has no problem with saying no. And no issue with having people removed. But it will never be an issue. You will never be invited.
@@eileenmcdonald1599 Have you ever heard of bait and switch?
How about as a slummy mummy in track pants? Imagine the moment 😊
@@tanyachef _will they tho_ 🤔
What an incredibly informative & detail-rich piece of art you have created here. I highly appreciate the incredible work you put into detailing the history of Karl's professional & personal life; I've not seen anything like it. Your understanding of the fashion industry and appreciation for the nitty gritty of its history makes this a fascinating watch. Thank you so, so much for this, and for everything you do.
This is one my favorite videos that’s you have made. I love the longfrom designer deep dives.
I remember a life time living in a small Australian country town and still gorging on whatever Karl Lagerfeld. Oh the Fendi days, I was seen as the freak. Finding clothes on family holidays that no one was wearing at home. Leading up to actually living and marrying French, I was so in love with what Mr Lagerfeld was up, what little I could afford going to pieces that came my way. I’m excited
I can't imagine how long this would have taken to research. Thank you, thank you Luke for a wonderfully detailed but still focussed video. This is exactly what I needed before consuming MET gala coverage. I love the bitchy and the funny moments of your other videos but 100 percent appreciate the thought and execution put into this one. I hope everyone else appreciates this as much as I do!
I really like Karl. I think some of best looks were in the 90s. He really made Channel fresh. I also like his work when he was designing for Nicole Kidman. Both advertisements and movie themes. I dont love everything but he had moments of brilliance.
I liked more of thecMet Gala looks this year than i have in the past few.
even though Karl had said many "inappropriate" or even "mean" speeches.....but Karl did had "influence" so many young generations of fashioner lovers and me......Karl had made "FASHION" so "FASHION" that no one did......and Karl did put thousands & thousands of people to have jobs in so many decades......I will live with what Karl had been such a "HUGE INFLUENCER" in fashion and me and what Karl "inappropriate" speeches all blend together......LONG LIVE KARL......
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Agreed
***** I like history.
Bravo, Luke. A comprehensive, nuanced and truthful overview. You've done a lot of work and it came together. Thank you.
Excellent job covering the long career. So much content, so little pics. I live for your pics with descriptions. In all fairness, it would have taken a few 1000 pics to cover everything you talked about and taken a year to put together. Huge fan. Can't wait to see your review of the 2023 Met Gala.
Wow Luke! Thank you I really enjoyed this post. I found it truly entertaining and informative from start to finish, well done. Now I am actually looking forward to the Met Gala and your take on it. 😊
Your Chanel rap at 47:25 rivals Stephen sondheim's "not getting married today"!
Patiently waiting for your Met Gala 2023 fashion review
I love it when you do these deep dives! They provide insight on what I can hopefully expect in the Met Gala. Hope there will be 2 parts in the Met Gala review!
Your Lagerfeld discussion is much more exciting than the fashion show itself.
you are just on anoooooother level.... thank you so much for giving this content for free. amazing like ALWAYS.
With all due respect, he had mad privilege tho.
fashion for a longtime was a privileged era. For a long time in working class, fields like fashion weren't seen as serious of respectable.
It's because of designers like Karl, among others, who made a success in that field and became famous that it became attractive and seen as serious by the general public.
And he obviously succeeded because of his talent. We are talking about late 50's/60's. Some things cannot be seen with the eyes of today.
What
Countryside during nazi era geGermany. Odd that is your first thought
Luke, always so articulate 👌🏼👌🏼🙇🏻♂️
I absolutely love this essay style video. Do you lecture or teach? You should/could.
I hope he does / will!
Thank you so much , Luke , for all your hard work and research. I enjoyed this video so much. I’m a long time subscriber from Huntsville,Alabama. I most certainly am here for your Roast & Review videos but also love it when you teach me more about fashion which I’ve always been drawn to even as a young girl. I can’t wait to see your review of the Gala , for you I Stan! 🖤
Wow, Luke! That was amazing! So thorough, interesting, and concise. Loved all the images and footage you were able to put together. I learn so much from you; this video was very well done. Thank you!!
Wow, this is incredible video ❤ Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. You are amazing
Very very well done. Thorough, unflinching, precise and concise. You synthesized a great deal of info in this video essay. You're a great communicator.
Damn. This was awesome. Watched every second of it, making sure to pause when I needed to make my morning coffee. LOVE these full life essays of these designers lives. I can't imagine the work you did to put this all together. Would watch every one if you did them for all the great houses/designers. A wonderful and well displayed description. Thank you for your efforts and I hope this gets referenced & acknowledged over time.
Wow! Great work on this history fashion lesson, detailed, effective and nuanced. It shows off your passion and dedication. Love it♥️
This is why I love your channel. You did the work of going through his remarkable designs while not shying away from the uncomfortable truth of the person himself. Thank you for making this.
Your fashion history videos are the best thank you Luke!
I wasn’t thinking the only thing we’d be seeing at 2023 of the Met Gala, Karl Lagerfeld, A Line of Beauty would be the ever chic Chanel Skirt Suits, you have just given me a massive swarm of butterflies 🦋 and what we can expect to see. Will we be gifted a visual feast of all the years of Karl. Choupette will of course be watching over with the coolness that comes with Cats and somewhat something of a Muse herself. Cannot wait to gorge your take on the fashion game. This could be EVERYTHING we’ve been waiting for since Camp Notes on Fashion. Pretty please invites gild yourself to the zenith degree of fabulousness of the greatest Man of Fashion in forever. I can’t wait Haute and I’m here for the long build up. Pshaw to nay sayers, everyone in history can be judged by every person that owns a phone. Karl deserves this night. I loved this build up. Please let the attendees be glorious ♥️♥️♥️
I've always liked your videos, but they've improved so much! The editing feels much more professional now, and your research and commentary feel really thorough and coherent.
Your videos have always been extremely good but a steady increase of quality has been so cool to see
Excellent explanation and very weell said! Complete information and all the research you've done! 👏👏 Very, very good!
Luke! Outstanding “Karl Documentary” you’re presenting here. You have become so professional, it’s a delight to listen to Y♥️U!
Excellent commentary and insight! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge! One can learn so much for passionate experts. Thank you for all of your time and efforts to share and educate!
thank you so much for making the video so accessible to people who don't know much about fashion.
Great video, I love your fashion history breakdowns, hope to see more in the future!
Thank you for making these videos before each MET gala because the reaction videos make so much more sense after watching these.
not u posting a 1h7min video on the met 1h15min before the event starting lol
He’s giving us something since we all want a live stream reaction of nobody being able to follow a theme
Thoroughly enjoyed this video and as always very much appreciate the time and effort you put into researching for ur videos xx
Karl was a child during WW2. Hugo Boss wasn't. He outfitted the Nazis & only publicly acknowledged their key role in WW2 in 2009. Lest We Forget. It's a phrase used at WW memorials.
Listen... as an older writer / vintage fashion collector (already collecting 20s stuff in the 70s!!! as a kid!!)
(and demeulemeester (only her early work, 2004, etc) and with many comrades in the fashion world in nyc, during 80s / 90s and 2000 (not anymore!) I want to say this: YOUR WORK IS AMAZING. Just YOU showing the CHLOE work of LAGERFELD is incredibly helpful to all of us still learning.. and trust me.. this 50 something being still learns every single freaking day!! I love love how you made this video and your incredible commentary and study and research and take on LAGERFELD. I adored him! No matter what... people make mistakes in life.. by "saying" things.. and trust me ALL OF US CHANGE.. I am 100% Lagerfeld meant what he said at the time but 100% he did "turn around" as WE ALL DO.. WE ALL DO!! Upon realization... his great "assistant" but i would more call him a CONFIDENTE AND GUARDIAN ANGEL was SEBASTIAN JONDEAU and he came from a middle east background.. As Dorothy Day said, "We are all better than the worst thing we have done in our life." I know he was a wealthy powerhouse, but from all the reading / talking to people i have done.. HE WAS SUPER GENEROUS and GRACIOUS... and woooooow.. a TALENT in drawing.. in sooo much!! I respect your work and this video is tremendous... thank you for all the looking inot the archives.. i never saw the CHLOE work 70s.. and i'm obsessed now.. thanks thanks thanks
Thank you for sharing all these historical details! 👏👏👏
The fact I know you shortened the discussion around Spring 2014. It’s honestly the most iconic runway.
You did a fantastic job, with keeping this video on the fashion accomplishments for the different houses, his sketching and earlier life. I was amazed at his earlier sketches, the details in the clothing and hats, and furs.
Really good piece and very informative, thank u x
A full masterclass!! Bravo!!! 👏👏👏👏👏
you speak so eloquently on the topic, i love learning from you!
Thank You! I learned a lot from watching this video, I never knew his backstory, very disturbing and messy, his parents being Nazis 😮. His rivalry and love affairs, plus his biases. Very complicated person. 😘
Pretty much everyone in Germany was a member of the Nazi party at the time. If they weren't they were probably in a concentration camp or at risk of going to one.
I think it’s a possibility they joined the Nazi party as an act of self-preservation, still not honorable, but understandable. As they had money, why didn’t they escape Germany if they had the chance.
His parents were never nazis. They were vehemently anti nazi.
Where did you get that his parents were nazi's
@@lifetheslowway di-did we watch the same video
This was fascinating and educational. Phenomenal job. One thing I really like about you is that you are so knowledgeable and you just are so invested in fashion as an art form. It makes me love fashion, too. I also really love how, no matter how judgmental you are against the clothes (I am the same way), you never judge any one of the people you talk about for how they look. I grew up in the 90’s and it was completely normal to tear someone else’s appearance apart, especially if they were in the public eye. I love how respectful you are about that. Anyway this was thoroughly enjoyable, thank you for all the hard work I’m sure you did to put this all together!
Thank you for the time you put into this , it was very interesting and informative. I appreciate that you focused on his accomplishments in fashion and not on his flaws as a person. I think it shows that one can appreciate the art created by a person while not agreeing with the artists personal views and opinions.
You are my favorite fashion history teacher
wow, this video is amazing. tons of info but really well explained, dynamic and with visual aid, but most important really entretaining to watch.
Thank you for the care, effort and hours you put into this piece. It was so informative and timely.
It also points out that a brilliant creative mind does not mean a brilliant moral person. We tend to glamourise people when we admire their work and that’s not always earned.
What?
Congratulations Luke! You curated Karl’s fashion career excellently, he was one of fashions creative genius. But as a man he was all things you mentioned, all you have to do is Google him. I adored his work and as a make up artist he was an inspiration, but as a man his attitude towards life and people could never escape the family he was born into, Nazis’s and being born in Germany in WWII
My new yearly tradition is to look at all of the met gala outfits, then come to this channel and learn about the fashion, the theme and the history behind it. Then I go back and look at all the outfits again and see how what I have learnt from hautelemode has changed my opinions of the outfits. Mainly my opinion (of the outfits) changes for the better because what I thought was boring before I now see as on-theme or clever in its homage to the theme. THEN I come back here and watch all of the reviews of each outfit and see how my thoughts or feelings compare with Luke's.
I worked with Chanel for years and can't find fault with your observations and analysis
Would love to see more history of fashion icons and brands by youu!! This is so nice
wait can you do a history lesson on yves saint laurent too? loved this video!
At Patou he also was shown how to catelogue all his work and the houses history too, inlcuding fabrics and techniques. This was somethign Balmain did not do and simply wasnt common for the day, even Patou probably wouldnt have done it if it wasnt for the start of the company coinciding with the start of the first world war. He brought this through his career to other compnaies, most notably chanel, who by 85 still didnt have a comprehensive catalogue of their work, which he insisted on as one of his requirements for joining the failing (at the time) house
Cannot wait for your outfit review!
I loved the history and appreciate Yr time researching this topic. You did not stray away from the difficulties of the subject. Your summing up was brilliant. Thank you. Keep em coming.
Appreciate this background! Thanks for sharing. Are you going to react to the Tiffany’s re-opening last week?
Thank you. Well done, informative and thoughtful.
I know it's a lot of work, but I would love to see more of the histories of brands or iconic designers. This was fascinating and I learnt a lot - thank you.