Toro TimeMaster loses power when blades engaged Part 2 ThrowPartsBinAndViewerSuggestion

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  • Опубліковано 15 вер 2024
  • Usually with a customers mower I would spend all night to get this thing working right. As I get better as a tech, and try to accurately pinpoint issues with my own mowers, You can get frustrated when the usual suspects aren't the problem, and you need to investigate a little more. I thought the carb was going to be the issue, but I am right back to thinking the belt or pulley is the suspect.

КОМЕНТАРІ • 19

  • @MrRightwingextreme
    @MrRightwingextreme 2 роки тому +1

    I have been having the same problem for quite some time. I took the top engine cover off and found a rusty flywheel (magneto). I sanded and cleaned it thoroughly and it has all its power back.

  • @Mark-vy5mu
    @Mark-vy5mu 3 роки тому

    excellant video showing how the timemaster choke linkage is set up.

  • @John33lawn
    @John33lawn 3 роки тому +1

    The cable behind the belts with the clamp loosen then pull cable to the left a little then tighten. Then u will have all your power back.

    • @sxewhodey
      @sxewhodey  3 роки тому +2

      I tried many cable settings. As long as I kept thinking the head gasket wouldn't be the problem....it was. Part 4 shows that, and everything was working great after that adjustment

    • @greenisgrowthmd8441
      @greenisgrowthmd8441 3 роки тому

      @@sxewhodey thanks!

  • @croquest8749
    @croquest8749 Рік тому

    Mine starts and idles perfect. When l engage the blades it bogs down for about 2 minutes with very rich fuel smell and smoke. Eventually it picks up speed to normal like nothing happened. Perhaps thermostat is bad and opening up the chocke to late . This is right out of the box problem .

  • @scotta626
    @scotta626 3 роки тому

    Engine sounds good and smooth but trying very hard to turn the blades. There should be a brake on one of the pulleys and it should release when the bail handle is pulled. This would definitely a holdup if not releasing.Or a possibility of seized bearing. Also I would definitely tape or replace the wire,the spark can arc and ground out.

    • @sxewhodey
      @sxewhodey  3 роки тому +1

      I actually thought I found the problem last night, thinking it might be a wrong size belt and it was aftermarket because it was blue. Then I started seeing that the oem are blue so I discredited my theory somewhat. Ill have another video within the week though with the plan, or maybe the fix :) Thanks for the input Andrew

  • @preocupied1690
    @preocupied1690 3 роки тому +1

    Yes your choke linkage was incorrect at first.

  • @timjones5403
    @timjones5403 3 роки тому +2

    Head gasket could be bad.

  • @icsp2
    @icsp2 3 роки тому

    Check the clutch cable has no slack in it. it sounds like the brake is not releasing from the clutch quick enough.

    • @sxewhodey
      @sxewhodey  3 роки тому

      Funny thing is that was the next video, I over tightened it to try to eliminate that, and it snapped :( I got a new cable today to put on I wont make a cent on this flip. I am going to also take off the blade sync belt to see if the engine pushes just the one spindle okay as a test. Part 3 coming soon

  • @YOUTUBEISRANBYRETARDS
    @YOUTUBEISRANBYRETARDS 2 роки тому

    Your belt tension is either too loose or too tight.

  • @ericdorsey2262
    @ericdorsey2262 2 роки тому

    you have low compression, same as mine right now. very frustrating, I'm late to this vid so you've prob fixed it. these engines just werent made that well. bad valves, bad rings, bad head gasket, or all three. Let me know please if you found it out. My service shop said $800 for a new engine which is just ridiculous! there are 3 or 4 MUCH better replacements for this engine, Kohler makes I think 3, and Kawasaki makes 1. I saw prices from $200-400, easy 3 bolt install, done in about an 1hr. This is what I will do if I can't get mine running, going to try 1 more time to look at the valves, rings, head gasket, AND the stupid gas cap issue. Placing plastic over the gas cap doesnt work either as that creates a vacuum and will kill your engine. Your flywheel is rusty, but thats rarely the problem unless its really bad, some 200grit sandpaper and WD40 will fix that quick. The ignition coil is a stupid design on this engine. the cord drops on the engine head and melts - WTF Briggs & Stratton - come on! Let me know please if you figured it out

    • @sxewhodey
      @sxewhodey  2 роки тому

      Was resolved in the last part. I think these engines are actually made pretty good. They do blow gaskets quite frequently, but all the other components seem pretty well made. I just finished installing another gasket on a third timemaster, it's a common recurrence

    • @HappyJ
      @HappyJ Рік тому

      @@sxewhodey replaced the head gasket for third time in 3 years yesterday. Head and block always cleaned up and checked for flat. It always blows out at same place. Head bolts always torqued to spec. Using the correct pattern. IMO just a bad design.

    • @sxewhodey
      @sxewhodey  Рік тому

      @@HappyJ Have you tried using the gasket with the metal ring? I have had better success with that. PLus you can get 2 head gaskets for only a couple bucks more in the kit. I have had a few timemasters, and they were because of the headgasket, but the one I am currently working on I jumped too quickly to call the head gasket the issue, and I have been pretty stumped. Cant get it to run at high rpms . I know spring tension can be adjusted, but it might just need governor adjusted. We will see

  • @Joe-sg8tk
    @Joe-sg8tk Рік тому

    Blown head gasket