Great video! I jave a similar repair I’ve been contemplating. The head was damaged over 10 years ago so needs some derusting first, but at least now I know it’s possible to weld. Thanks!
Nice job. Its always fun fixing up old tools. I picked up a helpful tip on fixing an ax. If there's a chance of over heating the edge of the ax and losing the temper/hardness. You can place the edge in sand or dirt and it will help keep the edge cool.
Plumb made hatchets for the Boy Scouts; I have two, one of which has a crack down the back of the axehead. I have been reluctant to try and weld it but think I’ll give it a shot. Thanks for the video. Darlington, South Carolina USA
Didn't know about the hatchets, so thanks for that. Did a bit of axe work in my younger days and Plumb was a good brand to have. Good luck with your repair.
Great video, do you need to do any sort of heat treating? other than preheating and putting it in a blanket. also, is it possible to repair the blade of the axe with welding?
Welding up the head like that, you can get away with not heat treating afterwards, but I did, but didn't show it in the video. You can rebuild the blade with weld, just need the right electrode and it will need heat treatment afterwards.
I did that repair a few years back and don't remember what rod I used, more than likely it was a 7016 however. A 7018 rod is just as good and will do the job you want.
Thanks Sparky. Temper or re-tempering, well there is a story to that, first up I forgot to mention it and good for you for asking, secondly (which is why I forgot I suspect) I didn't record any video, or it may be it is in my lost recordings that I mentioned in my recent vlog. Basically I re-tempered it, because you can't be too sure about the condition of the bit after welding (most older axes like this one are only hardened in the bit area).
Thanks Bob, I was wondering if you had, I had a friend weld a crack in one of mine and we were very careful to keep the bit cool, I have lost a few bits of recording or forgot to press record so I know how frustrating that is!
@@markwhalen5300 Bit of confusion there, the axe head was re-tempered, the purpose of the copper strip was to provide a backing across the bottom of the hole that I welded up to (a) make it easier to fill and (b) prevent weld building up at the bottom of the hole that I would have to grind away later (works well as in this case I just did a touch up on the bottom of the hole with a power file). I saw once that in the US Harbor Freight sells a copper spoon in their welding stuff and I believe the purpose for that tool is to act as a backing plate for welding. Not sure if something like that is available here in Oz, but pieces of copper, brass or aluminium are all good for this purpose. I have copper bar that I use to make electrical contacts so a bit of scrap copper was easily to hand in my case.
Some people insist that it's better to leave the handle sticking up a bit above the axe head when re-handling an axe..I must say, I think it looks much better, more "finished" if you cut it off flush with the top of the axe head, like you did. What is your opinion on this?
I imagine if you leave it up a bit, you could end up jarring the handle if you hit something the wrong way. I learnt my axe skills on the farm. One of the things we would do is cut trees down for fence posts and after you cut it to size you would take the bark off. This involved hitting the bark with the back of the axe head to loosen it and then levering it away with the axe blade. I think in that sort of work, having the handle stick out past the head would both, be in the way, and probably loosen the handle. Been a while since I have seen a wood chop, but I can't remeber seeing any of those axemen having the handle protrude much past the end of the head.
@@whitedoggarage thank you for your thoughts on this...I do know the famous UA-cam guy in B.C. Canada who does chainsaws and axes, is one of the ones who likes the handle to stick out above the axe head.
Not really a wood guy Rob, I mainly buy handles at the hardware and fit them. I would be looking for hickory (not sure that is available as just wood in Oz) or more likely something like blue gum I guess.
Great video! I jave a similar repair I’ve been contemplating. The head was damaged over 10 years ago so needs some derusting first, but at least now I know it’s possible to weld. Thanks!
Thankyou for watching the video, glad it has inspired you to repair yours, thanks again.
Nice job. Its always fun fixing up old tools.
I picked up a helpful tip on fixing an ax. If there's a chance of over heating the edge of the ax and losing the temper/hardness. You can place the edge in sand or dirt and it will help keep the edge cool.
Excellent tip Dave, thanks for watching the video 👍👍👍
Bravo!!! Straight to the point that from the other down and under ..(Argentina ) !!!
Thank you
Plumb made hatchets for the Boy Scouts; I have two, one of which has a crack down the back of the axehead. I have been reluctant to try and weld it but think I’ll give it a shot. Thanks for the video. Darlington, South Carolina USA
Didn't know about the hatchets, so thanks for that. Did a bit of axe work in my younger days and Plumb was a good brand to have. Good luck with your repair.
If you think my voice is different, it is I had a cold when I recorded the voice bits :-(
Voice is only coming through in one ear on my tablet Bob.
@@TakamiWoodshop Interesting Rob, any UA-cam video I play here including my own has wonky sound - something for me to check I think, thanks.
Great video, do you need to do any sort of heat treating? other than preheating and putting it in a blanket. also, is it possible to repair the blade of the axe with welding?
Welding up the head like that, you can get away with not heat treating afterwards, but I did, but didn't show it in the video. You can rebuild the blade with weld, just need the right electrode and it will need heat treatment afterwards.
What kind of welding rod did you use. I'm about to do this to a 180yr old axe head I just found. You just use 7018?
I did that repair a few years back and don't remember what rod I used, more than likely it was a 7016 however. A 7018 rod is just as good and will do the job you want.
Great video mate
Thanks 👍
Plumb Tasmanian pattern? Great work!
Thanks.
Same process to repair a sledgehammer?
Quite right 👍👍👍
Nice bit of welding there Bob with plenty of penetration, great trick with the copper strip, How is the temper now did the heating affect it?
Thanks Sparky. Temper or re-tempering, well there is a story to that, first up I forgot to mention it and good for you for asking, secondly (which is why I forgot I suspect) I didn't record any video, or it may be it is in my lost recordings that I mentioned in my recent vlog. Basically I re-tempered it, because you can't be too sure about the condition of the bit after welding (most older axes like this one are only hardened in the bit area).
Thanks Bob, I was wondering if you had, I had a friend weld a crack in one of mine and we were very careful to keep the bit cool, I have lost a few bits of recording or forgot to press record so I know how frustrating that is!
I'm confused about the copper too, how did you temper it to keep it from sticking to the weld? @ 5:09
@@markwhalen5300 Bit of confusion there, the axe head was re-tempered, the purpose of the copper strip was to provide a backing across the bottom of the hole that I welded up to (a) make it easier to fill and (b) prevent weld building up at the bottom of the hole that I would have to grind away later (works well as in this case I just did a touch up on the bottom of the hole with a power file). I saw once that in the US Harbor Freight sells a copper spoon in their welding stuff and I believe the purpose for that tool is to act as a backing plate for welding. Not sure if something like that is available here in Oz, but pieces of copper, brass or aluminium are all good for this purpose. I have copper bar that I use to make electrical contacts so a bit of scrap copper was easily to hand in my case.
Some people insist that it's better to leave the handle sticking up a bit above the axe head when re-handling an axe..I must say, I think it looks much better, more "finished" if you cut it off flush with the top of the axe head, like you did. What is your opinion on this?
I imagine if you leave it up a bit, you could end up jarring the handle if you hit something the wrong way. I learnt my axe skills on the farm. One of the things we would do is cut trees down for fence posts and after you cut it to size you would take the bark off. This involved hitting the bark with the back of the axe head to loosen it and then levering it away with the axe blade. I think in that sort of work, having the handle stick out past the head would both, be in the way, and probably loosen the handle. Been a while since I have seen a wood chop, but I can't remeber seeing any of those axemen having the handle protrude much past the end of the head.
@@whitedoggarage thank you for your thoughts on this...I do know the famous UA-cam guy in B.C. Canada who does chainsaws and axes, is one of the ones who likes the handle to stick out above the axe head.
@@dyer2cycle personal choice I guess 🙂
Interesting process to see Bob. If making a new axe handle what wood would you use?
Not really a wood guy Rob, I mainly buy handles at the hardware and fit them. I would be looking for hickory (not sure that is available as just wood in Oz) or more likely something like blue gum I guess.