And that was one where the hoses were long enough to suit the new bars / and spacing and had enough spare on the end to account for the amount cropped off at the lever ... the whole job is longer if the hoses have already been cropped once or twice so are right on the limit for length and so new hoses need to be fitted ...
Should be "Don't Buy a Bike With Integrated Handlebars" - You'd have to be extremely lucky for any bar/stem combo to fit you on any new bike actually. Manufacturers always get it wrong.
@@ashleyhouse9690 Lack of options making Specialized body geometry software awkward in practice , for example . I have lots of standard bars and stems in my inventory .
Amything worth having has some hard work involved! I luve the clean look and feel of my internal cables...little more mullah to the mechanic but thats life. And hydraluic brakes are just soo much better than my old rim brakes...esp in the mountains and in the rain. Wel worth it to me.
Absolutely agree. I’m sure lots of people will have integrated bar and stems when they purchase their next bike. They’re only complaining as they haven’t got a next generation bike, yet…
Well whats the worse maintenance task on this bike then changing the handlebar? Well thats easy, its changing the headset bearings. Have fun with that ;) .Greetings from Kersten Wielersport Nijmegen, a Pro-Bikeshop from The Netherlands! big love to the channel!
It is possible to remove the olive without shortening the hose. Using a pair of side cutters, with the blades almost parallel to the hose, cut across the circumference of the olive, removing about a third of it. It is then possible to remove the rest of the olive by prising apart the open ends. The barb stays in place, and the crush nut that fastens the hose into the lever can be slid over the end of the hose/barb. You can then pull out the hose from the bars and reinsert into the new bars.
This is nuts. What is missed in this video though is what happens when doing the same on the previous generation of Campy and Shimano gruppos which also had wired shifter connections through the handlebar. Also given the increased presence of direct to buyer brands like Canyon, I can't see a ton of people making changes to either the equipment on the bike or the fit of the bike after they receive it. Moving forward I just see a bunch of people with bikes that don't fit them well. This is marketing driving function.
@@TiagoMorbusSa I would have to agree. Moreover, one could also argue that if you are going for an integrated bar and stem, you would know what you need before making the jump to this type of setup.
I think it may be possible to do a loop inside the downtube or headtube to keep some extra hose. This would also allow the bars to be removed for travel, while keeping the hoses attached.
Long live my rim brakes and non integrated handlebar. ❤️ I do have one bike with hydraulic disc, but again normal handlebar, and I can change it if required. ✌🏾
the first thing when i got my new bike with an integrated bar, luckily not fully integrated cables, was to chuck that stupid thing in the trash and get normal bars and stem.
i’m gonna do an integrated setup but keep my rim brakes. no fluid just a clean cockpit with rear exit integrated levers the side exit cables bug me now that i’ve seen what can be done otherwise
semi integrated cable routing + separate stem and handlebar = perfect also separate stem and handlebar allows the best fit instead of integrated cockpit
@@SamuelBlackMetalRider I mean when cables enter the frame in downtube near headtube. this way you can use any stem with any handle bar. it also provides easy service for headset
@@al_pekoWhat you described is now better classified as regular internal routing ever since integrated internal routing came along. Some brands and models have this configuration designed particularly well. Others, not so much.
Thanks for posting! I just bought a Pinarello X1 with a 120mm stem. Thinking to swap out myself (with a 100mm), but after watching this, I'll have the shop do it, haha!!
These are relatively easy ones too, most integrated bars don't have that removable inspection cover and some don't even have the exposed cable/channel running down the stem.
So what you're saying is that the correct procedure is to take off the integrated handle bars, remove the stem, then put on a normal stem with normal handle bars and exterior cable routing.
I was a part time assistant bike mechanic back then and at one time I was tasked for the first time to set up integrated internal dropbars on a fully integrated road bike. It took me 2 hours to do the job. And I thank God that I did not have to deal with hydraulic brakes. They are much worse and messy.
The flanged hydraulic connecting bolts at both the lever and the caliper require an 8mm crescent wrench to be removed (not a 7mm). On 11sp Shimano hydro stuff, the bleed nipple at the caliper is a 7mm, but other than that you're not really going to be seeing 7mm bolts. I just wanted to make a note of this so if people are wanting to do this job themselves, they don't go out and buy the wrong wrench.
They really should just make the holes in the handlebars just a little bit larger. I actually changed my fully integrated cockpit without cutting the olive and barb off of the end because the holes in my bars were just big enough. Just did a lever bleed after the new bars were set up, and all is well. Just make the holes bigger and/or make the fitting smaller and more reusable :) Duh!
Just a note to satly that the "nylon piston press" pictured is the metal Park Tool PP-1.2, which Park state: "NOTE: Wedge-style piston tools such as the PP-1.2 are not intended for use with brake systems that utilize ceramic pistons, such as Shimano road disc brake calipers."
Nice video! I think that's the same Tristan that used to work on my Willier bike/s many years ago in Canary Wharf!! If so, he's an awesome mechanic !!! 👍
Re inventing the wheel and botching it up , also stem fed / concealed cables = weaker steerer tube . The friend at Cycleworld said they are time consuming to service compared to more traditional layouts .
Annnd that's why I like my Giant TCR, recent but still external cables. I prefer maintenance convenience to the ridiculous small aero gains no one would notice except in high level races...
I agree and i did it on this particular bike but with Sram wireless. It is quite straight forward, but just be patient. Especially with cutting. Make sure you have measured the correct lenght properly.
@@headofmyself5663 My bike is a 2022 Pinarello Prince with Ultra 12 speed so only brake hoses.. I have the alloy stem and bar but it still was not a big deal.
I thought it going to be much harder. On other YT channels you can see people struggling for hours just to guide brake and shifer cables (which Alex's Di2 system does not need) through tight and uneven spaces of chep handlebars from Ali Express... :) Oh, and BTW: I can never get my handlebars straight after service - perhaps GCN Tech video on that subject...? ;) Thaaanks
and if you switch to a longer stem, it's possible that your brake lines are to short and you have to reroute new hoses, too. Especially since you have to cut them, to get them out of the handlebars...
A day too late. Changed out my integrated handlebars yesterday. I ran some strimmer line into the handlebars first as I found running the hydrolic lines impossible on a practice run beforehand. Managed to strip the bleed screw on the levers as it's made of cheese... Plan to dremel a line into it so I can replace with the stronger replacement screws that got released with the 105 di2. Overall I wouldn't say it's that complicated to do but took longer than expected.
that is true and right UNTIL you figured out your posituion to the last 2%. When you are 98% sure that this is it, then, imho, you can get a complicated / integrated bar and stem combo
I genuinely did not understand a word of this entire video. This is the best motivation to make enough money to pay for this to be someone else's problem
"Some calipers such as Shimano use ceramics piston which can be easily damaged so, if possible use a nylon piston tool to be extra safe" followed by a shot of the metal Park pad spreader 🤦♂ I bet Tristan was glad you were going shorter or narrower as replacing brake lines for longer is a pig of a job.
There are loads of videos on this where you shorten the brake lines, but sometimes you may need longer lines, like if you buy a secondhand bike that needs a longer stem to fit you. How about a video for that?
That literally entails replacing both the lines in their entirety. I.e. routing both the lines throughout the frame and fork, through the headset, then back through the handle bars. The connecting process is the same at both the lever and caliper (with insertion of the barb & crushing on the olive with the hydro connecting bolt @ 5-7Nm). Just bleed the brakes and re-do your tape and you're back in business. As a mechanic, I highly suggest bringing your bike to your local shop for this job as it is very nuanced and time consuming, especially if you have no prior experience. If you plan on going ahead with it anyway, God Speed, my friend.
That's only if the hose is already at the shortest possible length to begin with. Back in my shop days, I always tuck a little extra back into the cockpit before making the cut, for two reasons. 1) It's easier for the cockpit to be completely removed from the steerer tube. 2) If the new cockpit is slightly longer or wider, there's still enough hose left.
The Pinarello Dogma F12 and F are two such road bikes with rim brake variants with integrated internal routing, only the front brake line doesn't pass through the headset assembly.
I'm building up a vintage Rotrax steel frame bike with modern components. But I wouldn't have integrated handlebars, and all the maintenance issues they entail, even if it were possible.
Yes, it comes from that. When turning right and using your right hand to indicate it’s preferable to have the hand that’s still on the bars (the left one) operating the rear brake (because it’s easier to control the bike) and vice versa in countries that drive on the other side of the road. Personally I advocate for having your dominant hand operating the front brake.
Is cutting the steerer tube shorter as complicated? Ive just gotten a new bike and kept my steerer tube long to fit myself in. Im probably about ~5 long rides away from figuring this out.
@@fjskj6529Some shops would just remove the cockpit and spacer kit to expose as much steerer tube as possible without disconnecting any lines to save time. There are steerer tube saw guides small enough to cut the steerer tube with the fork still in the frame, but this will lead to carbon dust falling into the nooks and crannies of the headset assembly. This is the harsh price to pay for integrated internal routing. The aesthetics-obsessed want it, they must live with the consequences.
These pinarello tallon bars are easy to change, ridley's bars and stems are an absolute pain, hardest integrated bar and stem combo i know to guide the cables...
idk, despite having to rebleed the disc brakes this seemed to be pretty chill. Tristan didnt seem to have sweat a second. It just took some time, nothing more.
I had integrated cockpit... I hated it. It was the wrong size and none of the size option offered would fit. Had to change for a non integrated with internal cable. The process of finding the correct one and doing the change took me forever. I hate integrated cockpits.
1:20 the Park Tool PP-1 is made of investment cast metal . . . of some kind: use a fat plastic tyre lever instead. You should never have to undo brake hoses, fiddle them around right-angled corners, reconnect, (preferably with new hose end fittings) and rebleed TWO OF THEM (let alone fiddling the gear cables - Di2 or mechanical) to swap handlebars. It is a stupid marketing-department-led design choice validly applicable only to those looking to save single-figure wattages at the highest levels of the sport. i.e., not you, not me and not the GCN presenters. I've done enough of these to know why, and how: and the 2 x (minimum) labour charge penalty you have to apply over a simple non-internally routed setup is unsupportable customer-predatory bu!!shit by the marketing, sorry, bike manufacturing companies who habitually do this.
I have 2 bikes like this and this is a lot of complexity to hide a very short amount of cable. It's frustrating and long and it does compromise the strenght of your handlebars because it has holes in it. Couldn't they design a handlebar with a dedicated shape to fit the brake hoses on the outside or right at the back?
There's one one-piece cockpit that I know of that may tickle your fancy: the Bontrager Aeolus RSL one-piece cockpit. Its routing configuration is classified as guttered external routing. Shift and brake lines don't go inside the cockpit at all, but still maintain a clean look. This makes cockpit swaps with the same cockpit as easy as a standard two-piece cockpit. My only complaint about this cockpit is the long 100 mm reach. If it was 75 mm, it'd be much better. I remember Black Inc.'s Integrated Barstem is another one-piece cockpit that features guttered external routing for mechanical groupsets.
Carbon structures with holes aren't necessarily weaker, otherwise carbon frames with "swat" storage holes and holes for access cable routing, etc. would not exist. As long as the areas around the holes are sufficiently reinforced, it is totally fine. Major brands do ISO testing of their frames and components exactly the same you would for regular alloy bars, so the proof is in the testing, not "how it looks".
but it would be nice to show the process with a mechanical group set that the majority uses, shifting quality is compromised when routing this way, weather you are buying cheaper bars or more expensive ones. also the damage to houses squeezing them through indicate size holes .
I think I know what you mean here, but everyone will benefit from the aero savings, even though they are very small. The issue is that most people setups are so far from optimal the savings from a bar pale into insignificance. It falls into the category of most modern tech... Not many people need it, but lots of people want it. But hey that's the free choice we all have 😎
It's not always every so often to change your dropbars. Besides, if you want to be a bit more conservative, you can install new brake hoses and make them a tad bit longer so that to compensate for the reduction that you have to do everytime you do want to change your dropbars
This is extremely absurd. The bicycle industry has jumped the shark. All of my bicycles can be fully serviced or modified with a few tools and with no waste.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
What is the worst bike maintenance task? Let us know what you think it is 👇
SHORTENING CABLES: You have to readjust shifters, bleed brakes and recenter them just after shortening :(
cleaning a clogged up and seized derailleur.
I think that looks like it.
looks like this !
Maintenance of the headset on internal routing bikes jajaja that’s fun … and change cables brakes on rim brake tt bikes jaja Bmc is specially fun
Fantastic seven-minute summary of why many of us prefer external cables.
came to say this
Over-engineering at its very finest
semi integrated it is
And mechanical brakes!
I don't know, it's not like I change my handlebar every week...
And that was one where the hoses were long enough to suit the new bars / and spacing and had enough spare on the end to account for the amount cropped off at the lever ... the whole job is longer if the hoses have already been cropped once or twice so are right on the limit for length and so new hoses need to be fitted ...
I think the title should be "Don't Change Integrated Handlebars".
Should be "Don't Buy a Bike With Integrated Handlebars" - You'd have to be extremely lucky for any bar/stem combo to fit you on any new bike actually. Manufacturers always get it wrong.
@@ashleyhouse9690 Lack of options making Specialized body geometry software awkward in practice , for example . I have lots of standard bars and stems in my inventory .
canyon does well with with adjustable bars but everyone else forgot this
I happily pay my LBS to take care of anything complicated. They stay in business and i don’t end up with useless tools and a big mess
Or even better, 'dont buy a disc bike'
Amything worth having has some hard work involved! I luve the clean look and feel of my internal cables...little more mullah to the mechanic but thats life. And hydraluic brakes are just soo much better than my old rim brakes...esp in the mountains and in the rain. Wel worth it to me.
Absolutely agree. I’m sure lots of people will have integrated bar and stems when they purchase their next bike. They’re only complaining as they haven’t got a next generation bike, yet…
@@MrVeliKaptan Wait until you try to travel with your bike. A complete faff.
When GCN takes a bike to another mechanic you know they're getting too complex!
Another video to remind me why I love my rim break bike. What a hassle!
Love how the full process was edited down from hours to 6 minutes! 😆
Well whats the worse maintenance task on this bike then changing the handlebar? Well thats easy, its changing the headset bearings. Have fun with that ;) .Greetings from Kersten Wielersport Nijmegen, a Pro-Bikeshop from The Netherlands! big love to the channel!
It is possible to remove the olive without shortening the hose.
Using a pair of side cutters, with the blades almost parallel to the hose, cut across the circumference of the olive, removing about a third of it. It is then possible to remove the rest of the olive by prising apart the open ends.
The barb stays in place, and the crush nut that fastens the hose into the lever can be slid over the end of the hose/barb.
You can then pull out the hose from the bars and reinsert into the new bars.
This is nuts. What is missed in this video though is what happens when doing the same on the previous generation of Campy and Shimano gruppos which also had wired shifter connections through the handlebar. Also given the increased presence of direct to buyer brands like Canyon, I can't see a ton of people making changes to either the equipment on the bike or the fit of the bike after they receive it. Moving forward I just see a bunch of people with bikes that don't fit them well. This is marketing driving function.
A bunch of people with bikes that don't fit them well has been the reality for decades.
@@TiagoMorbusSa I would have to agree. Moreover, one could also argue that if you are going for an integrated bar and stem, you would know what you need before making the jump to this type of setup.
@@TiagoMorbusSa Far more so now with these integrated abominations.
At some point when cutting the brake cables, don"t they get too short and need to be completely replaced ?
Yes, normally when the lines are originally fitted there is some excess, but repeatedly doing this will eat that up.
Also I think Alex's new handlebars have shorter stem
@@adamsandler4076 They're also narrower I believe so that also gives more wiggle room.
I think it may be possible to do a loop inside the downtube or headtube to keep some extra hose. This would also allow the bars to be removed for travel, while keeping the hoses attached.
Then the real party starts ! :D
Long live my rim brakes and non integrated handlebar. ❤️
I do have one bike with hydraulic disc, but again normal handlebar, and I can change it if required. ✌🏾
Same here 😊
Same here too!
the first thing when i got my new bike with an integrated bar, luckily not fully integrated cables, was to chuck that stupid thing in the trash and get normal bars and stem.
i’m gonna do an integrated setup but keep my rim brakes. no fluid just a clean cockpit with rear exit integrated levers
the side exit cables bug me now that i’ve seen what can be done otherwise
1:27 shifters require 8mm spanner, 7mm was used on 11 speed bleed nipples on the callipers.
Love the Alex narration whilst the LBS tech does the work for him. Minus the voiceover, my strategy exactly.
I‘ve never been happier with my 15yo bike I love to work on, than right now watching this video xD
I know right?! 😅
YES!
semi integrated cable routing + separate stem and handlebar = perfect
also separate stem and handlebar allows the best fit instead of integrated cockpit
You mean like the VENGE with classic stem and aero bars with internal cables (Aerofly) ?
@@SamuelBlackMetalRider I mean when cables enter the frame in downtube near headtube. this way you can use any stem with any handle bar. it also provides easy service for headset
@@al_pekoWhat you described is now better classified as regular internal routing ever since integrated internal routing came along. Some brands and models have this configuration designed particularly well. Others, not so much.
Thanks for posting! I just bought a Pinarello X1 with a 120mm stem. Thinking to swap out myself (with a 100mm), but after watching this, I'll have the shop do it, haha!!
I had no idea any kind of bike maintenance could be this complicated... Wow...
its not, if you have a bike with full external routing, like us smart people do
These are relatively easy ones too, most integrated bars don't have that removable inspection cover and some don't even have the exposed cable/channel running down the stem.
@@NewEnglandDirtRoadie I have full external cables too, but i replace the cables more often than the one with semi internal cable...
@@NewEnglandDirtRoadie This.👍
So what you're saying is that the correct procedure is to take off the integrated handle bars, remove the stem, then put on a normal stem with normal handle bars and exterior cable routing.
Too bad many riders don't like that, especially most 2020s cyclists.
Integrated bars with rim brakes is not nearly as bad! Another ✅ for rim brakes.
I was a part time assistant bike mechanic back then and at one time I was tasked for the first time to set up integrated internal dropbars on a fully integrated road bike.
It took me 2 hours to do the job. And I thank God that I did not have to deal with hydraulic brakes. They are much worse and messy.
I actually find with hydro brakes to be easier as the hoses are more flexible than brake housing
Now make a video on how to pack your bike with integrated handlebar on a travel case
The flanged hydraulic connecting bolts at both the lever and the caliper require an 8mm crescent wrench to be removed (not a 7mm). On 11sp Shimano hydro stuff, the bleed nipple at the caliper is a 7mm, but other than that you're not really going to be seeing 7mm bolts. I just wanted to make a note of this so if people are wanting to do this job themselves, they don't go out and buy the wrong wrench.
Who goes out an buys a 7mm wrench on its own?
Somebody who needs to bleed their shimano brakes........
What I learned today is that, Yes, you should visit your bike shop for this job.
They really should just make the holes in the handlebars just a little bit larger. I actually changed my fully integrated cockpit without cutting the olive and barb off of the end because the holes in my bars were just big enough. Just did a lever bleed after the new bars were set up, and all is well. Just make the holes bigger and/or make the fitting smaller and more reusable :) Duh!
Just a note to satly that the "nylon piston press" pictured is the metal Park Tool PP-1.2, which Park state:
"NOTE: Wedge-style piston tools such as the PP-1.2 are not intended for use with brake systems that utilize ceramic pistons, such as Shimano road disc brake calipers."
And if you’re swapping to a wider bar, longer stem or don’t have any slack, then presumably new hoses as well.
This just reinforces my choice of external cables and mechanical disc brakes
Durianrider was right this is too much work imagine trying to do this at home with no experience. Doing on a rim brake will be so much easier
It’s insane how what was before a trivially easy task is now a huge hassle due to “improved”
Bikes
Alex’s bike is new, but usually good to have a look at and service or replace the headset bearings whilst you’re taking everything apart.
Nice video! I think that's the same Tristan that used to work on my Willier bike/s many years ago in Canary Wharf!! If so, he's an awesome mechanic !!! 👍
Re inventing the wheel and botching it up , also stem fed / concealed cables = weaker steerer tube . The friend at Cycleworld said they are time consuming to service compared to more traditional layouts .
How long before you all come back to rim brakes and external cables?
the bike industry marketing CEOs are strategizing right at this moment
Have Park tools got a special cloth you can buy to wipe up remnants of brake fluid?
Happy to keep my external cable Emonda Project One, none of this faff for a few watts gain when going at a speed I cant sustain for more than 15mins.
Thank you very much for this video. I was looking for this !
Maybe I'm too old but it feels like some advances just aren't worth it
For fun you should do a handlebar change on an external cabled bike and see how far you can ride in the same amount of time😅
Annnd that's why I like my Giant TCR, recent but still external cables. I prefer maintenance convenience to the ridiculous small aero gains no one would notice except in high level races...
I did this over the past winter. It really wasn't that bad a job, just too some time.
I agree and i did it on this particular bike but with Sram wireless. It is quite straight forward, but just be patient. Especially with cutting. Make sure you have measured the correct lenght properly.
@@headofmyself5663 My bike is a 2022 Pinarello Prince with Ultra 12 speed so only brake hoses.. I have the alloy stem and bar but it still was not a big deal.
I thought it going to be much harder. On other YT channels you can see people struggling for hours just to guide brake and shifer cables (which Alex's Di2 system does not need) through tight and uneven spaces of chep handlebars from Ali Express... :)
Oh, and BTW: I can never get my handlebars straight after service - perhaps GCN Tech video on that subject...? ;) Thaaanks
and if you switch to a longer stem, it's possible that your brake lines are to short and you have to reroute new hoses, too. Especially since you have to cut them, to get them out of the handlebars...
…… and this is why I have rim brakes with a a separate stem and handlebars 😅
A day too late. Changed out my integrated handlebars yesterday.
I ran some strimmer line into the handlebars first as I found running the hydrolic lines impossible on a practice run beforehand.
Managed to strip the bleed screw on the levers as it's made of cheese... Plan to dremel a line into it so I can replace with the stronger replacement screws that got released with the 105 di2.
Overall I wouldn't say it's that complicated to do but took longer than expected.
And why would I switch from rim brakes again?
Because you find fewer and fewer bikes, groupsets, wheels... it's unfortunate but unavoidable.
@@shuycg Not with the stockpile I have at home. :)
Step one: get rid of them. Step 2: use a standard stem and bar.
that is true and right UNTIL you figured out your posituion to the last 2%. When you are 98% sure that this is it, then, imho, you can get a complicated / integrated bar and stem combo
How did you get away with cutting the break hose twice, and it didn't end up too short? Was there just that much more extra hose in the frame?
Quite possibly he went from 44/42cm bars to 38cm bars.
Can you make a video integrated handle bar rim brake external cable please
literally took me 4hrs just to add a spacer in my bike
I genuinely did not understand a word of this entire video. This is the best motivation to make enough money to pay for this to be someone else's problem
And this is why internal routing on frames and handlebars is wrong on so many reasons.
This is a nightmare. I'm happy with my classic handlebar and stem and with my rim brakes bike.
Wow. This all for like.... 0.5 watts at 30mph?
may i ask what the difference between old and new barstem?
thank you
@GCN._TECH. i mean what change did you made😂
length? width? thank you
"Some calipers such as Shimano use ceramics piston which can be easily damaged so, if possible use a nylon piston tool to be extra safe" followed by a shot of the metal Park pad spreader 🤦♂ I bet Tristan was glad you were going shorter or narrower as replacing brake lines for longer is a pig of a job.
The video editor is definitely not a bike tech guy
Really good vid. thank you.
There are loads of videos on this where you shorten the brake lines, but sometimes you may need longer lines, like if you buy a secondhand bike that needs a longer stem to fit you. How about a video for that?
That literally entails replacing both the lines in their entirety. I.e. routing both the lines throughout the frame and fork, through the headset, then back through the handle bars. The connecting process is the same at both the lever and caliper (with insertion of the barb & crushing on the olive with the hydro connecting bolt @ 5-7Nm). Just bleed the brakes and re-do your tape and you're back in business. As a mechanic, I highly suggest bringing your bike to your local shop for this job as it is very nuanced and time consuming, especially if you have no prior experience. If you plan on going ahead with it anyway, God Speed, my friend.
Yes routing new longer lines could be problematic. The rest is not different than in this example.
When he cut the barb off the hose initially during disassembly, wouldn't the brake hose be too short during reassembly? Since, the hose got shorter?
That's only if the hose is already at the shortest possible length to begin with. Back in my shop days, I always tuck a little extra back into the cockpit before making the cut, for two reasons.
1) It's easier for the cockpit to be completely removed from the steerer tube.
2) If the new cockpit is slightly longer or wider, there's still enough hose left.
Thats why i keep it with rimbreakes 👌 and an old school racing bike 💪
The Pinarello Dogma F12 and F are two such road bikes with rim brake variants with integrated internal routing, only the front brake line doesn't pass through the headset assembly.
“take it to your local shop”
got it.
is this an sl8 upgrade?
U wot mate, it’s a pinarello not a specialized
@@Sammartin-z7t you wot, u don't get it lol. If you pay me I'll explain further soul mate
Maybe include the important parts the next time like how best to straighten the bars. What to do with the dangling fork, and etc.
You have di2 so easy job! I also have mechanical schifting...
Does it take 1 to 1:30 hours all together
I'm building up a vintage Rotrax steel frame bike with modern components. But I wouldn't have integrated handlebars, and all the maintenance issues they entail, even if it were possible.
If u had rim brakes it's a 30 min job tops 😂😂😂
LOL !! You are so lucky to have a store in Britain! we don't even have one in the US!
EXCELLENT!!@GCN_TECH.. Thank you!!! Ha-Za Ha-Za!
what did I win?@GCN_TECH..
Left is your rear brake??? Is that because you ride on the left side of the road?
that's the NORM, right hand -->> front brakes
Must be a north American thing, right leaver works the rear brake. Learned something new today.
Yes, it comes from that. When turning right and using your right hand to indicate it’s preferable to have the hand that’s still on the bars (the left one) operating the rear brake (because it’s easier to control the bike) and vice versa in countries that drive on the other side of the road.
Personally I advocate for having your dominant hand operating the front brake.
Is cutting the steerer tube shorter as complicated?
Ive just gotten a new bike and kept my steerer tube long to fit myself in. Im probably about ~5 long rides away from figuring this out.
It’s even worse, since you need to do what was just done but also remove the fork from the frame.
@@Adonis-qj1nq damnit. Almost the same process as this?
@@fjskj6529Some shops would just remove the cockpit and spacer kit to expose as much steerer tube as possible without disconnecting any lines to save time. There are steerer tube saw guides small enough to cut the steerer tube with the fork still in the frame, but this will lead to carbon dust falling into the nooks and crannies of the headset assembly.
This is the harsh price to pay for integrated internal routing. The aesthetics-obsessed want it, they must live with the consequences.
No you don’t. Just disconnect the brake hose at the calliper and you can remove the fork
These pinarello tallon bars are easy to change, ridley's bars and stems are an absolute pain, hardest integrated bar and stem combo i know to guide the cables...
Because of this I bought a Giant Tcr. I can swap my bars easily in 15 minutes
idk, despite having to rebleed the disc brakes this seemed to be pretty chill. Tristan didnt seem to have sweat a second. It just took some time, nothing more.
I assemble and maintain all my own bikes. I will try my best to avoid the hassle like this.
I had integrated cockpit... I hated it. It was the wrong size and none of the size option offered would fit. Had to change for a non integrated with internal cable. The process of finding the correct one and doing the change took me forever. I hate integrated cockpits.
This is just nuts. This used to take 30 minutes, if even that. Is this what we call progress?
I listen to fellow bike mechanics and don't buy modern bikes😊
1:20 the Park Tool PP-1 is made of investment cast metal . . . of some kind: use a fat plastic tyre lever instead. You should never have to undo brake hoses, fiddle them around right-angled corners, reconnect, (preferably with new hose end fittings) and rebleed TWO OF THEM (let alone fiddling the gear cables - Di2 or mechanical) to swap handlebars. It is a stupid marketing-department-led design choice validly applicable only to those looking to save single-figure wattages at the highest levels of the sport. i.e., not you, not me and not the GCN presenters. I've done enough of these to know why, and how: and the 2 x (minimum) labour charge penalty you have to apply over a simple non-internally routed setup is unsupportable customer-predatory bu!!shit by the marketing, sorry, bike manufacturing companies who habitually do this.
"And that'll be £500 for the new bars and tape, installed."
were your brakes plummed incorrectly? front on right?
Doing this process right now... day 5 since cables and hoses are about 20mm too short.
I have 2 bikes like this and this is a lot of complexity to hide a very short amount of cable. It's frustrating and long and it does compromise the strenght of your handlebars because it has holes in it. Couldn't they design a handlebar with a dedicated shape to fit the brake hoses on the outside or right at the back?
There's one one-piece cockpit that I know of that may tickle your fancy: the Bontrager Aeolus RSL one-piece cockpit. Its routing configuration is classified as guttered external routing. Shift and brake lines don't go inside the cockpit at all, but still maintain a clean look. This makes cockpit swaps with the same cockpit as easy as a standard two-piece cockpit. My only complaint about this cockpit is the long 100 mm reach. If it was 75 mm, it'd be much better.
I remember Black Inc.'s Integrated Barstem is another one-piece cockpit that features guttered external routing for mechanical groupsets.
Carbon structures with holes aren't necessarily weaker, otherwise carbon frames with "swat" storage holes and holes for access cable routing, etc. would not exist. As long as the areas around the holes are sufficiently reinforced, it is totally fine. Major brands do ISO testing of their frames and components exactly the same you would for regular alloy bars, so the proof is in the testing, not "how it looks".
Another advert for rim brakes. No mess everywhere.
but it would be nice to show the process with a mechanical group set that the majority uses, shifting quality is compromised when routing this way, weather you are buying cheaper bars or more expensive ones. also the damage to houses squeezing them through indicate size holes .
gfor those who are looking for the right tool: gardening trimming scissors work very well for cutting brake lines
I promise you most people aren’t getting the “watts saved” benefits from integrated bars…it looks clean but totally not worth it
I think I know what you mean here, but everyone will benefit from the aero savings, even though they are very small. The issue is that most people setups are so far from optimal the savings from a bar pale into insignificance. It falls into the category of most modern tech... Not many people need it, but lots of people want it. But hey that's the free choice we all have 😎
How long did it take him to do the job? Just curious.
The carification of bicycles =)
Yeah, but can Tristan dismantle or install a quill stem?
how much this process usually cost?
Shortened to the correct length brake hoses, they where shortened already from correct length.
Sounds like new lines where installed.
This is why my personal choice remains rim brakes.
Thank God that all my road bikes have either 7800 or 7700, with everything out in the wind. I'm happy to give up 1/4 of a Watt.
I'll stick to stem and handlebars and rim brakes easy maintenance and cheaper of you have a crash
problem is you can't find a modern-day production bike that has them. nobody's even making rims for rim brake anymore
If you cut brake hoses every time.. how many times can you replace the handlebars before changing the hoses?
It's not always every so often to change your dropbars. Besides, if you want to be a bit more conservative, you can install new brake hoses and make them a tad bit longer so that to compensate for the reduction that you have to do everytime you do want to change your dropbars
Видимо механики в какой-то момент захотели зарабатывать больше и отделять элитных механиков от обычных работяг. И придумали интегрированные рули 🤝
Pretty cool that the mechanics at the Pinarello store always dress to match the paint job of the bike they're working on
This is extremely absurd. The bicycle industry has jumped the shark. All of my bicycles can be fully serviced or modified with a few tools and with no waste.
Can you manage people's expectations and let them know how long the job actually takes as I feel some people literally just think its a 10min job
The audacity of the ignorant. 🙄