I've been following your steps on everything for Fig trees and so happy with how fast and beautifully my Hardy is doing! Bought my tree on 4/03 and now on 4/30 it has definitely put on some leaf growth 💚💚
My friend just want to said , so much appreciated by using your ferlizer technic and schedule . I have see a big different change on the figs tree and how healthy it is now for 2 months, so much much appreciated TY. In FLORIDA I already pick 3 fruits already ripe for the year , many, many more fruits this year 😊😊
@@TheMillennialGardener with fig that are in pots just use a well balanced npk they are still growing no fig lets I should use a well balanced fertilizer every 10 to 14 days?
I’m thinking my non producing 3 year old tree is under fertilized,,,,it’s been fertilized a couple times a year with fert spikes. I would think I would be seeing figlets by now if it were going to fruit this year, but I’m not sure. In any case, your videos are a huge help!!
Hey there! You have encouraged me to grow a fig. I ended up buying a young tree. I live in Ca and after your trader joe comparison with the Panachee, I chose that variety! Love your videos!
Jake Marf awesome! Panache grown in California is a top tier fig. They don’t do well here on the east coast due to splitting, but in your dry summers, it is going to blow your mind. Don’t harvest until it feels like a soft bag of squishy jelly.
Jake Marf you will be able to hang on much better than I can. I have to often pick early before a thunderstorm (I hear one rumbling in the distance as I type this, we have a little pop up line coming in now). Some figs you’ll be able to dry on the tree if they are incredibly sweet ones where the sugars preserve them. I think Panache is too juicy for that, but the figs you can grow in CA are mind blowing.
Thanks for the information. I had one fig tree kkast year and had ao so harvest. This plan will get a fll tesrt this year. What abot the rrees that get early figlets on the old growth? I have several in this situation. Should I make any changes to the feeding routine or just follow these videos? Great information, Thanks.
Giankees I’m a fan of potting figs in the cheapest large containers I can find 😆 I used to be a HD guy but since I got a Lowe’s card with the 5% off, I find myself there more.
Honestly, I think Home Depot buckets are better quality. The Lowe’s buckets feel less flexible. But I go to Lowe’s a lot more, so I’m not going to Depot for a slightly better paint bucket.
Hi, I just found little figlet for first time after I purchased year and half ago, I live in TN, I was so happy to see them, so now I want to make sure I’ll get them grow healthy, and would like to know which slow releasing fertilizer you’re using, I tried to find your store front, but not be able to find it for garden goods, please send me a link, if that’s possible. Thank you! Btw I’m growing in the pot.
Great video. I saw that the fish Emulsion can be kind of high in acidity and I'm wondering if things like that level of acidity. I already have azomite and will be comparing how the two compare. I also think that the fish Emulsion with the high acidity would be excellent for blueberries and citrus
If my tree is on 2 feet high & in ground with sm-med size leaves, what do i use as i've never given it fertilizer? Also, I intend to put steer manure compost & mushroom compost, & then a layer of mulch. It's still young & hasn't produced figs yet. I'm learning by watching lots of videos. Yours looks very detailed & good, but I'm reluctant to over fertilize it. Your thoughts about my plant?
Question for you.....I’m trying to make sure not to overwater my newly transplanted fig tree (some lower leaves yellowed and one fell off). It is about 3 feet tall. I figured it could have either been nutrient deficiency or too much water because the soil was pretty wet (i could squeeze water out of it). I changed the soil and last watered it probably two weeks ago (it’s protected from rain and sun in case this is transplant shock) and the soil is still not dry. I used 100% potting soil. I would like to use soluble fertilizer but am worried that it will provide too much water to the plant. Any suggestions? Really the question is when you suggest giving 1-2 inches of water a week, is that with the assumption that the soil is dry?
Is the 10-14 day requirement for each fertilization step? So high N, then balanced, then high p, then balanced. All 10-14 day feeding increments? Thanks for the great vid!
I have watched many videos on fertilizers and hands down this is the got damn best breakdown of how to and when to. Great job brother, you just earned a new subscriber.
Thank you for subbing. I appreciate it. I have an in-depth 4-video series that shows you how to fertilize all season for best results in the same format if you're interested: ua-cam.com/play/PL1gY7BoYBGIFNbJEUdApbh_E57uNBLG2j.html
I'm fairly new to growing figs, So I have been following your videos closely, This Georgia clay is pretty unforgiving....but I persist. Same zone as you though....keep the good info flowing Sir! Thanks.
Thank you. If you have poor drainage, you may want to plant your trees on a 12 inch elevated mound. You can build a 6'x6' square out of 2"x12"'s, fill it with a fast draining organic compost, then plant your tree flush with the top. The fig will send a lot of surface roots that way. Planting like that can help save a lot of rot-prone trees like citrus and avocado, too.
@@TheMillennialGardener The first two trees are planted on a hill, with a 50/50 native soil and mix....Hoping that would help with the drainage. I have 8 other trees in pots, and thanks you I will use your suggestion for those on the flat land. Appreciated Sir!
@@TheMillennialGardener Severe in some areas, where the trees are, no. I do have a question for you though....We have been getting a lot of rain here in north Georgia, I have been thinking of building a shelter for the potted trees....so they aren't subject to all the rain....using a greenhouse panel so the sun still gets to them, if you can picture....2 4x4's....one on each side with a panel roof. simple but effective. What do you think? Will it help them or should I rely on the pots draining? Thanks in advance I appreciate your responses.
Love your videos. Any suggestions for those of us growing in self-watering/sub-irrigated planters? I assume less fert in general since there is less water flushing through/out of the soil?
BKK CHRIS you may be able to stretch the intervals between fertilizing to 14-21 days from my recommended 10-14 since your containers don’t wash out as quickly. Alternatively, you can keep the 10-14 day schedule and use 2/3 strength dosages for the soluble. I would not change the routine on the granulated organic fertilizers, though. They don’t burn. Just watch your leaves to make sure they don’t get too dark green and shiny. That’s a sign of too much nitrogen.
I’ve got a question. After the spring wake up from dormancy fertilizer with long acting can I then apply a soluble feed after I apply that? Since the first long acting won’t he available right away? Also for the fig stage or when they start to form are you just using bloom boost at that time?
I’m the same. Trying to find a balanced 555 or similar is impossible in WA. I’m going to go with rooster booster at 322 which is the most balanced I can find.
When would you consider the transition from beginning season to mid season? Do we do the 2 beginning fertilizations s then transition to this cocktail 2 weeks after the first 2? Wi giving phosphorus early cause harm?
Thanks very helpful :) I had a question regarding figs though: Does each node have the capacity to produce both a breba fig and a maincrop fig (albeit at different times)? My climate isn't warm enough for maincrop to ripen, so could I just remove the immature maincrop figs in the summer, to stimulate breba crop figs the following spring? Or would taking off the maincrop fig at a node mean that those nodes can no longer produce a breba the following spring? If that's the case, how would one discourage the maincrop figs without hampering breba production? Thanks so much for any advice.
Conor Hope thank you. The answer to your question is multi-faceted. Not all fig varieties produce breba. Many do not. In order to produce breba, you need to obtain a variety known to produce a reliable breba crop (like Desert King). Second, main crop figs form on the new year’s wood. The green wood my trees are forming right now will begin producing figlets in 30-45 days. Breba does not form on the new year’s wood. Breba form on one year old wood. The new green wood growing on your fig trees right now will not produce a breba fig until this time next year, so if you need breba, you can’t prune your wood at the end of the year for cuttings. Main and breba don’t compete with each other because they form on different years. Main form Year 0, breba form Year 1. So, the short answer is yes, your tree may produce breba on some of the same nodes, but only if your variety produces breba, and if it does, it won’t be until the following season. Breba set well before the main crop, and usually before any leaves form, so they don’t really compete for space in that sense. Have you tried varieties like Ronde de Bordeaux or Florea? They may ripen main for you.
@@TheMillennialGardener thanks for taking the time to answer, and yes I am growing some San pedro varieties such as desert king, from cuttings, which I hope will be some solid breba producing plants. As for the breba and maincrop competing, I know that they form on differently aged wood, but what I mean is, the new wood which main crop will form on this year, will next year, be one year old wood. And so then, this one year old wood, which bore the maincrop last year, has the potential for brebas to form on. What I was wondering in my previous question, is can you get brebas forming in the same nodes that last year bore the maincrop? I will have a look at the varieties you have mentioned regarding maincrop. Thanks so much for your help :)
Another informative video👍My season is ahead of you as I'm a zone9b AZ. Would you mind passing along the next videos info now as my trees have figlets forming already? LOVE seeing Dale with you in the yard. He looks so relaxed. We have a rescue as well. Unfortunately, he's a fear aggressive dog who doesn't like other people or other dogs (out of fear). But fortunately, we are the perfect family for him with only 2 adults at home with no kids or other dogs. He loves us to pieces. Dogs bring so much to our lives. Wouldn't want to be without them. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Mine are doing so much better following your advice.😎🌵🐕
You said earliest fertilizer only if sure of no more frost. If my fig is in a plastid hoop house to warm the soil, could I fertilize before last frost since fig is protected? I am in 7b. Thank you.
FIgs shouldn't be fertilized leading up to winter. You don't want to generate new growth. Allow them to go dormant. I have a full tutorial on why here: ua-cam.com/video/m9P7Gvo_zK4/v-deo.html
My container fig tree finally put some leaves now! I am gonna use your methods to take care of my fig tree! By the way, What is the black sheets that used for your ground?
Hi . I have a question. On some of my trees here in PA zone 6B in June, I am now seeing tiny figlets popping out above the leaf stem on some trees. Should I start the Miracle Gro Bloom now for those trees with the tiny figlets, or continue with Miracle gro tomato for another month or so? Not sure how big the figlets should be before i use Bloom. Thanks for this informative video.
Do you have to modify the fertilizing schedule according to fig tree developments and not the season?. Because my figs are in different stages, the one in the ground got several leaves and figlets and some of the ones in containers are just breaking dormancy or they are just bare sticks so far.
I would base it mostly on growing season schedule, not their individual progress. The reason why is because you are trying to get maximum production, so stopping the nitrogen phase early just because one tree is producing figlets early means it’ll grow less new wood to set figlets on, meaning less wood to set new figs on, meaning less overall production. Each tree should go through optimal time in each phase, in my opinion.
You are reading my mind. I was just wondering if I should fertilize my fig trees. So far with your help my three newest and biggest fig trees are looking good. They are sprouting figlets like crazy. The best I have seen. Thesmaller older trees are looking better. Not as good as the new ones but have more leaves and a few figlets. Thank you for helping. Tomorrow I will give them all another shot and see what happens. I use Lowe's also because they give an unconditional discount to Veterans. I do go to HD on occasion but I rather not. Do you have a Rural King store where you are. I like them also. No discount but I like them anyway. :O)
@@TheMillennialGardener Hi yes Rural King opened up here in Central Florida about 6 years ago. It is huge. Similar to Tractor Store but maybe 8 or 10 times bigger. They sell everything. I think the last I heard there was 5 stores in the USA. It has a huge farm, ranch supply section. To much to mention, everything.
Is this correct...for the soluble fertilizer in your general fertilizing video, you do every 7 days at half strength but for mid spring fig and from figlet to ripening you do soluble every 14 days?
I fertilize every 10-14 days with soluble fertilizer. The only exception is when we're subject to extremely heavy rains and my containers get washed out. If that's the case, I'll have to give them a half-strength feeding in between during severely wet weather. If you don't see days of rain on end, you should be fine fertilizing every 10-14 days in containers.
Yes, occasionally. I use it as a shock around this time to wake them up and get them going with a strong initial nitrogen feeding, and maybe 1-2 other times a season for a boost, but I don't feed them with soluble feed as often as I do my potted figs. Eventually, when the fig trees get fully mature, I won't use any soluble feed on them anymore. I do it now while they're young since their roots aren't fully developed yet.
Gaby Jeter citrus trees don’t respond as well to high P. They like higher nitrogen feed. They also aren’t as voracious of feeders as figs, so you may not need to feed them quite as often, or you could give them lower doses.
Hi. I live north of Winnemucca Nevada about 25 miles I've been trying to find a fig tree. Trying. For a cutting but nothing yet. Do you sell cuttings? Or do you know someone who does?
Patriot Amazon1 I do sell cuttings, but in the winter. I suggest checking figbid.com for cuttings at this time of year. For trees, look at treesofjoy.com, bayflora.com, justfruitsandexotics.com, and check out Bill at Off The Beaten Path Nursery.
I don't have a problem with mammalian pests in my area. I live on a coastal plain and have a large fence, so I don't have a lot of warm-blooded pests. It's mostly insect trouble down here, which are plague-like proportions. I can't really relate to rodent pests. If you're uncomfortable with fish emulsion, you can purchase liquid kelp/seaweed fertilizer. It is similar to fish emulsion. It isn't quite as potent, but it is an excellent source of nutrition and isn't as smelly and won't attract those types of pests if it's a concern.
you are lucky, we have a fence for our back yard, but they can still come in if they want to, may be not raccoons, but rats and squirrels, they pay visits, I am sure. I am trying full strength hot chili oil mix with peppermint oil on the trunks this year. hope that helps.
ChefCrys01 I’m trying to be more detailed in this series. Some people just want to know how to do something, but others need to know why. You might be the latter. I am. If I don’t understand why I’m doing something, I won’t do it.
Can the bone meal be used for my figs in container and how much do I use. I also see my. Leaves have some brown marks think it is rust what can I use my leaves were looking very healthy where they got the rust is behind me
Great videos as always! I'm following your fertilizing plan this year (and trying to get an i-258!) - My area is currently in a cooler than usual spring , would you considering extending the high nitrogen fertlizings out until temperatures get warmer (up to normal) and you start seeing some decent growth? Thanks and once again, very good video
John JJ no. You may be seeing a cooler than normal spring, but when your 80 degree temps end in early fall is going to be your sticking point for ripening. What good is more wood for figs if they don’t ripen? My scheduled works backwards from ripening time. Deviating in spring means you need to have a hotter than average fall. That’s a gamble I’m not willing to take. A safer bet is to add heat. Get yourself some black plastic or weed barrier to add some heat. Add some big rocks nearby to heat things up. Those can help things.
There is nothing wrong with chemical fertilizers they are easyer for the plant to uptake and are effective almost immeadeatly , there is nothing poisions in them they do a better job than all organic dont be fooled by the crazies.
I generally agree with this statement, at least when it comes to growing in containers. Containers are an unnatural environment. Trying to apply organic, self-sustainable principles don’t work in containers well. We grow in containers to avoid nature, actually, because nature is too inhospitable for what we want to grow in a container. For in ground fig trees in appropriate zones, I recommend going organic and trying to mimic a self-sustaining ecosystem.
I've been following your steps on everything for Fig trees and so happy with how fast and beautifully my Hardy is doing! Bought my tree on 4/03 and now on 4/30 it has definitely put on some leaf growth 💚💚
Sandra Contreras excellent! I’m glad to hear you’re having success. It only gets better as the temps heat up!
My friend just want to said , so much appreciated by using your ferlizer technic and schedule . I have see a big different change on the figs tree and how healthy it is now for 2 months, so much much appreciated TY. In FLORIDA I already pick 3 fruits already ripe for the year , many, many more fruits this year 😊😊
This is great to hear! I’m glad you’re having success. I’m thrilled to help.
@@TheMillennialGardener with fig that are in pots just use a well balanced npk they are still growing no fig lets I should use a well balanced fertilizer every 10 to 14 days?
I’m thinking my non producing 3 year old tree is under fertilized,,,,it’s been fertilized a couple times a year with fert spikes. I would think I would be seeing figlets by now if it were going to fruit this year, but I’m not sure. In any case, your videos are a huge help!!
Excellent explanation! Can’t thank you enough. Keep up the good work & thanks for sharing all the value able information.
I used this method this morning. Thanks for the info.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Hey there! You have encouraged me to grow a fig. I ended up buying a young tree. I live in Ca and after your trader joe comparison with the Panachee, I chose that variety! Love your videos!
Jake Marf awesome! Panache grown in California is a top tier fig. They don’t do well here on the east coast due to splitting, but in your dry summers, it is going to blow your mind. Don’t harvest until it feels like a soft bag of squishy jelly.
The Millennial Gardener dude! I totally watched all of your videos, several times. I’m gonna hang on as long as I can!
Jake Marf you will be able to hang on much better than I can. I have to often pick early before a thunderstorm (I hear one rumbling in the distance as I type this, we have a little pop up line coming in now). Some figs you’ll be able to dry on the tree if they are incredibly sweet ones where the sugars preserve them. I think Panache is too juicy for that, but the figs you can grow in CA are mind blowing.
Very helpful...Thank you. My fig trees will thank you tomorrow.
Thanks for the information. I had one fig tree kkast year and had ao so harvest. This plan will get a fll tesrt this year. What abot the rrees that get early figlets on the old growth? I have several in this situation. Should I make any changes to the feeding routine or just follow these videos? Great information, Thanks.
I watched video again and my answer was solved 10 to 14 days
I can see that the Millennial gardener is a Lowes fan.. anyways can't wait for this video .. lots of good info all the time!
Giankees I’m a fan of potting figs in the cheapest large containers I can find 😆 I used to be a HD guy but since I got a Lowe’s card with the 5% off, I find myself there more.
@@TheMillennialGardener LOL me too! plus Lowes is less crowded at least in my area and I like blue over orange.
Honestly, I think Home Depot buckets are better quality. The Lowe’s buckets feel less flexible. But I go to Lowe’s a lot more, so I’m not going to Depot for a slightly better paint bucket.
Hi, I just found little figlet for first time after I purchased year and half ago, I live in TN, I was so happy to see them, so now I want to make sure I’ll get them grow healthy, and would like to know which slow releasing fertilizer you’re using, I tried to find your store front, but not be able to find it for garden goods, please send me a link, if that’s possible. Thank you!
Btw I’m growing in the pot.
Great video. I saw that the fish Emulsion can be kind of high in acidity and I'm wondering if things like that level of acidity. I already have azomite and will be comparing how the two compare. I also think that the fish Emulsion with the high acidity would be excellent for blueberries and citrus
If my tree is on 2 feet high & in ground with sm-med size leaves, what do i use as i've never given it fertilizer? Also, I intend to put steer manure compost & mushroom compost, & then a layer of mulch. It's still young & hasn't produced figs yet. I'm learning by watching lots of videos. Yours looks very detailed & good, but I'm reluctant to over fertilize it. Your thoughts about my plant?
Question for you.....I’m trying to make sure not to overwater my newly transplanted fig tree (some lower leaves yellowed and one fell off). It is about 3 feet tall. I figured it could have either been nutrient deficiency or too much water because the soil was pretty wet (i could squeeze water out of it). I changed the soil and last watered it probably two weeks ago (it’s protected from rain and sun in case this is transplant shock) and the soil is still not dry. I used 100% potting soil. I would like to use soluble fertilizer but am worried that it will provide too much water to the plant. Any suggestions? Really the question is when you suggest giving 1-2 inches of water a week, is that with the assumption that the soil is dry?
Is the 10-14 day requirement for each fertilization step? So high N, then balanced, then high p, then balanced. All 10-14 day feeding increments? Thanks for the great vid!
I have watched many videos on fertilizers and hands down this is the got damn best breakdown of how to and when to. Great job brother, you just earned a new subscriber.
Thank you for subbing. I appreciate it. I have an in-depth 4-video series that shows you how to fertilize all season for best results in the same format if you're interested: ua-cam.com/play/PL1gY7BoYBGIFNbJEUdApbh_E57uNBLG2j.html
@@TheMillennialGardener I’m definitely interested and I’m going to go check the videos out right now. 👍🏼
I'm fairly new to growing figs, So I have been following your videos closely, This Georgia clay is pretty unforgiving....but I persist. Same zone as you though....keep the good info flowing Sir! Thanks.
Thank you. If you have poor drainage, you may want to plant your trees on a 12 inch elevated mound. You can build a 6'x6' square out of 2"x12"'s, fill it with a fast draining organic compost, then plant your tree flush with the top. The fig will send a lot of surface roots that way. Planting like that can help save a lot of rot-prone trees like citrus and avocado, too.
@@TheMillennialGardener The first two trees are planted on a hill, with a 50/50 native soil and mix....Hoping that would help with the drainage. I have 8 other trees in pots, and thanks you I will use your suggestion for those on the flat land. Appreciated Sir!
@@ktrain4996 that sounds reasonable. If they're on a hill, I wouldn't expect a rot condition unless you have severe clay.
@@TheMillennialGardener Severe in some areas, where the trees are, no. I do have a question for you though....We have been getting a lot of rain here in north Georgia, I have been thinking of building a shelter for the potted trees....so they aren't subject to all the rain....using a greenhouse panel so the sun still gets to them, if you can picture....2 4x4's....one on each side with a panel roof. simple but effective. What do you think? Will it help them or should I rely on the pots draining? Thanks in advance I appreciate your responses.
Love your videos. Any suggestions for those of us growing in self-watering/sub-irrigated planters? I assume less fert in general since there is less water flushing through/out of the soil?
BKK CHRIS you may be able to stretch the intervals between fertilizing to 14-21 days from my recommended 10-14 since your containers don’t wash out as quickly. Alternatively, you can keep the 10-14 day schedule and use 2/3 strength dosages for the soluble. I would not change the routine on the granulated organic fertilizers, though. They don’t burn. Just watch your leaves to make sure they don’t get too dark green and shiny. That’s a sign of too much nitrogen.
How often should we be using the fertilizer? Mine starting budding out and having leafs already
I’ve got a question. After the spring wake up from dormancy fertilizer with long acting can I then apply a soluble feed after I apply that? Since the first long acting won’t he available right away? Also for the fig stage or when they start to form are you just using bloom boost at that time?
What do I give my small fig tree that 's in the ground & has never been fertilized in the 2 yrs since it was planted?
My problem is that in Australia most fertilisers have high nitrogen levels.
I’m the same. Trying to find a balanced 555 or similar is impossible in WA. I’m going to go with rooster booster at 322 which is the most balanced I can find.
When would you consider the transition from beginning season to mid season? Do we do the 2 beginning fertilizations s then transition to this cocktail 2 weeks after the first 2? Wi giving phosphorus early cause harm?
Great information!!
Glad it was helpful!
Questions all answered, perfect! Thank you so much for sharing! 👍♥️
DonnaZ you’re welcome. Thank you for watching?
Also have one more question the smaller fig trees in pots like you said just use a well balanced npk fertilizer
How often do u use soluble fertilizer in your figs throughout the summer
Hello friend , I have been follow your ferlizer schedule since early March / 2020 , just a small question when do we stop ferlizer .😊😊
So the solvable dissolves and is best I have a lot of fig-let
so use the tomato stuff and bone meal corrects
Do you water before applying fertilizer.
Thanks very helpful :) I had a question regarding figs though:
Does each node have the capacity to produce both a breba fig and a maincrop fig (albeit at different times)?
My climate isn't warm enough for maincrop to ripen, so could I just remove the immature maincrop figs in the summer, to stimulate breba crop figs the following spring? Or would taking off the maincrop fig at a node mean that those nodes can no longer produce a breba the following spring?
If that's the case, how would one discourage the maincrop figs without hampering breba production?
Thanks so much for any advice.
Conor Hope thank you. The answer to your question is multi-faceted. Not all fig varieties produce breba. Many do not. In order to produce breba, you need to obtain a variety known to produce a reliable breba crop (like Desert King).
Second, main crop figs form on the new year’s wood. The green wood my trees are forming right now will begin producing figlets in 30-45 days. Breba does not form on the new year’s wood. Breba form on one year old wood. The new green wood growing on your fig trees right now will not produce a breba fig until this time next year, so if you need breba, you can’t prune your wood at the end of the year for cuttings.
Main and breba don’t compete with each other because they form on different years. Main form Year 0, breba form Year 1.
So, the short answer is yes, your tree may produce breba on some of the same nodes, but only if your variety produces breba, and if it does, it won’t be until the following season. Breba set well before the main crop, and usually before any leaves form, so they don’t really compete for space in that sense.
Have you tried varieties like Ronde de Bordeaux or Florea? They may ripen main for you.
@@TheMillennialGardener thanks for taking the time to answer, and yes I am growing some San pedro varieties such as desert king, from cuttings, which I hope will be some solid breba producing plants.
As for the breba and maincrop competing, I know that they form on differently aged wood, but what I mean is, the new wood which main crop will form on this year, will next year, be one year old wood. And so then, this one year old wood, which bore the maincrop last year, has the potential for brebas to form on.
What I was wondering in my previous question, is can you get brebas forming in the same nodes that last year bore the maincrop?
I will have a look at the varieties you have mentioned regarding maincrop.
Thanks so much for your help :)
Is a osburn prolific fig a common fig
Another informative video👍My season is ahead of you as I'm a zone9b AZ. Would you mind passing along the next videos info now as my trees have figlets forming already?
LOVE seeing Dale with you in the yard. He looks so relaxed. We have a rescue as well. Unfortunately, he's a fear aggressive dog who doesn't like other people or other dogs (out of fear). But fortunately, we are the perfect family for him with only 2 adults at home with no kids or other dogs. He loves us to pieces. Dogs bring so much to our lives. Wouldn't want to be without them.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Mine are doing so much better following your advice.😎🌵🐕
Hey silly question, when doing a scoop of the miracle gro, is it recommended for the scoop to be level or a heaping rounded scoop? Thanks
3 years and still no answer to this?
You said earliest fertilizer only if sure of no more frost. If my fig is in a plastid hoop house to warm the soil, could I fertilize before last frost since fig is protected? I am in 7b. Thank you.
Yes. If your fig is no longer subject to freezes, you may start now. As soon as your frosts and freezes stop for that specific tree, you should begin.
What ( if any) fertilizer shouldi use on my fig and fruit trees to prepare them for winter?
FIgs shouldn't be fertilized leading up to winter. You don't want to generate new growth. Allow them to go dormant. I have a full tutorial on why here: ua-cam.com/video/m9P7Gvo_zK4/v-deo.html
My container fig tree finally put some leaves now! I am gonna use your methods to take care of my fig tree! By the way, What is the black sheets that used for your ground?
Wen-Hsin Moh the sheets are weed barriers. They stop disease from soil bouncing up from water and infecting the trees. 😀
Hi . I have a question. On some of my trees here in PA zone 6B in June, I am now seeing tiny figlets popping out above the leaf stem on some trees.
Should I start the Miracle Gro Bloom now for those trees with the tiny figlets, or continue with Miracle gro tomato for another month or so? Not sure how big the figlets should be before i use Bloom. Thanks for this informative video.
Joe Rappa you can switch as soon as your plants are trying to grow fruit to help with development
@@Just-Nikki Hi Nikki...yes, the Bloom was the route I took back then. Everything is growing real nice now. Thanks for the reply.
I like your style.
Thank you! I appreciate that.
Do you use a self wicking technique with your buckets or are there holes that the bottom for water drainage?
Richrd G there are holes in the bottom for drainage. Standing water in my environment is a no-no due to gnats and mosquitoes. They are severe here.
The Millennial Gardener Thank you, for the insight.
Do you have to modify the fertilizing schedule according to fig tree developments and not the season?. Because my figs are in different stages, the one in the ground got several leaves and figlets and some of the ones in containers are just breaking dormancy or they are just bare sticks so far.
I would base it mostly on growing season schedule, not their individual progress. The reason why is because you are trying to get maximum production, so stopping the nitrogen phase early just because one tree is producing figlets early means it’ll grow less new wood to set figlets on, meaning less wood to set new figs on, meaning less overall production. Each tree should go through optimal time in each phase, in my opinion.
You are reading my mind. I was just wondering if I should fertilize my fig trees. So far with your help my three newest and biggest fig trees are looking good. They are sprouting figlets like crazy. The best I have seen. Thesmaller older trees are looking better. Not as good as the new ones but have more leaves and a few figlets. Thank you for helping. Tomorrow I will give them all another shot and see what happens. I use Lowe's also because they give an unconditional discount to Veterans. I do go to HD on occasion but I rather not. Do you have a Rural King store where you are. I like them also. No discount but I like them anyway. :O)
Toolman that’s awesome, I’m glad to hear my videos are helping! I haven’t heard of Rural King. Is it a big box type chain? That’s new to me.
@@TheMillennialGardener Hi yes Rural King opened up here in Central Florida about 6 years ago. It is huge. Similar to Tractor Store but maybe 8 or 10 times bigger. They sell everything. I think the last I heard there was 5 stores in the USA. It has a huge farm, ranch supply section. To much to mention, everything.
Is this correct...for the soluble fertilizer in your general fertilizing video, you do every 7 days at half strength but for mid spring fig and from figlet to ripening you do soluble every 14 days?
I fertilize every 10-14 days with soluble fertilizer. The only exception is when we're subject to extremely heavy rains and my containers get washed out. If that's the case, I'll have to give them a half-strength feeding in between during severely wet weather. If you don't see days of rain on end, you should be fine fertilizing every 10-14 days in containers.
@@TheMillennialGardener Thank you!!
@@regina4918 you're welcome.
You used miracle grow on the ground planted fig trees too?
Yes, occasionally. I use it as a shock around this time to wake them up and get them going with a strong initial nitrogen feeding, and maybe 1-2 other times a season for a boost, but I don't feed them with soluble feed as often as I do my potted figs. Eventually, when the fig trees get fully mature, I won't use any soluble feed on them anymore. I do it now while they're young since their roots aren't fully developed yet.
I just was wondering because some people are saying is bad to add synthetic fertilizers on the ground that is all thanks for the reply
How often do you fertilize?
This is discussed at 15:28.
Do you recommend 0 45 0 for the fig tree
I recommend 15-30-15 or 10-30-20 once the first figlets appear. I've never used 0-45-0.
Because I live in Michigan my fig fruit still small and they never get bigger what should I do? Should I remove some of leaf
Do you apply the same method for citrus trees but with a higher N than P?
Gaby Jeter citrus trees don’t respond as well to high P. They like higher nitrogen feed. They also aren’t as voracious of feeders as figs, so you may not need to feed them quite as often, or you could give them lower doses.
Very useful information for my fig growing season. Great little mate you have helping you too.
how often as they grow
I'm sorry, I don't understand the question. Can you rephrase?
Hi. I live north of Winnemucca Nevada about 25 miles
I've been trying to find a fig tree. Trying. For a cutting but nothing yet. Do you sell cuttings? Or do you know someone who does?
Patriot Amazon1 I do sell cuttings, but in the winter. I suggest checking figbid.com for cuttings at this time of year. For trees, look at treesofjoy.com, bayflora.com, justfruitsandexotics.com, and check out Bill at Off The Beaten Path Nursery.
eBay has cheap cuttings and rooted fig plants I’ve bought 3
Good vid, thNks
Laonong lin thanks for watching.
Do you find this fish fertilizer attracts pets, such as rats and squirrels and raccoons ? I am afraid to use.
I don't have a problem with mammalian pests in my area. I live on a coastal plain and have a large fence, so I don't have a lot of warm-blooded pests. It's mostly insect trouble down here, which are plague-like proportions. I can't really relate to rodent pests. If you're uncomfortable with fish emulsion, you can purchase liquid kelp/seaweed fertilizer. It is similar to fish emulsion. It isn't quite as potent, but it is an excellent source of nutrition and isn't as smelly and won't attract those types of pests if it's a concern.
you are lucky, we have a fence for our back yard, but they can still come in if they want to, may be not raccoons, but rats and squirrels, they pay visits, I am sure. I am trying full strength hot chili oil mix with peppermint oil on the trunks this year. hope that helps.
Perfect video for me. I struggled with the other fig fertilizing video for some reason. Maybe I needed the dry erase board!😁 Thank you so much.
ChefCrys01 I’m trying to be more detailed in this series. Some people just want to know how to do something, but others need to know why. You might be the latter. I am. If I don’t understand why I’m doing something, I won’t do it.
What about Epson salt?
I would foliar feed with sea weed extract. Thru out the year
What is this gentlemen name so knowledgable
Супер Шикарно Успехов Украина г Николаев Анатолий
Thanks for watching!
@@TheMillennialGardener Пожалуста
Can the bone meal be used for my figs in container and how much do I use. I also see my. Leaves have some brown marks think it is rust what can I use my leaves were looking very healthy where they got the rust is behind me
Yes, I go over that in this video. I recommend 1-2 tablespoons of bone meal worked into the top inch of the soil of your containers every 10-14 days.
Great videos as always! I'm following your fertilizing plan this year (and trying to get an i-258!) - My area is currently in a cooler than usual spring , would you considering extending the high nitrogen fertlizings out until temperatures get warmer (up to normal) and you start seeing some decent growth? Thanks and once again, very good video
John JJ no. You may be seeing a cooler than normal spring, but when your 80 degree temps end in early fall is going to be your sticking point for ripening. What good is more wood for figs if they don’t ripen? My scheduled works backwards from ripening time. Deviating in spring means you need to have a hotter than average fall. That’s a gamble I’m not willing to take.
A safer bet is to add heat. Get yourself some black plastic or weed barrier to add some heat. Add some big rocks nearby to heat things up. Those can help things.
@@TheMillennialGardener thanks for the reply, this makes a lot of sense! I look forward your next video
What I am asking is the fertilizer using Epson salt miracle gro bone meal fish fertilizer I often do u use it during the summer
There is nothing wrong with chemical fertilizers they are easyer for the plant to uptake and are effective almost immeadeatly , there is nothing poisions in them they do a better job than all organic dont be fooled by the crazies.
I generally agree with this statement, at least when it comes to growing in containers. Containers are an unnatural environment. Trying to apply organic, self-sustainable principles don’t work in containers well. We grow in containers to avoid nature, actually, because nature is too inhospitable for what we want to grow in a container. For in ground fig trees in appropriate zones, I recommend going organic and trying to mimic a self-sustaining ecosystem.
Rocco Conte chemical fertilizers add unwanted salts that destroy not only soil but necessary beneficial nematodes as well as worms and other nutrients