On an IRL GT1 race car we used to run toe-out in front and toe-in on the rear (road courses). Very small amounts in each case. Front was easy to set; rear required bending the axle tubes, so once it was where we wanted it we never messed with it again. Of course, the car was also RWD only. Very interesting to compare and contrast that with the behavior of scale 4x4 crawlers. I tend to setup my rigs the same way. The Twins are just perfect for this kind of stuff!
Another good vid to answer some questions we've always wondered about. I'd like to see these comparos when we have gates, just to force the lines. When it comes down to questions like this, I think you'd notice more in a comp environment where every few mm maters. Keep up the good work! I love that you made the twins....it's what I've always wanted in my review videos, lol.
Huge difference depends on Akerman setup axle to different axle. Obviously everyone setups a little different, but first is the clearence the steering till axle click, or even clearence yoke to prevent axle click. Max both to the side and measure, that is the tierod length. Akerman setup on the axle can give you something more to play with, keeping under about 0-5 mm at tire.
thanks for that video. it did answer my question very well. I am going to try the toe out on my trx 6 because the rig is pretty stable as it is, but doesn't have a whole lot of steering to it
What about good geometry vs bad geometry? We always talk about how important geometry is, and im curious about how big the difference could be. Is it possible to make the geometry of one of those gentlemans bad on purpose, without too much work? I dont like the look of big OD, and I dont like the look of toe in/out neither
can you do a similar video, with upper link lengths and another swapping upper link positions, front and rear. think that could possibly make some decent content wih the direct comparisons 😅😅
On go-fast we run toe-in to neutral and the ackerman gives us toe-out by full lock. As I understand it, the outside turning tire is loaded more at speed and that is mainly the tire doing the steering in a fast corner. I think you hit on it here that the loaded tire does most of the work. Toe-out at full lock gives more stability mid corner and in drift, the trailing tire offers some scrub
While we're at it anyone run a steering gyro in their crawler?? Think I'll go for a smidge of toe in, wasn't expecting that 👍 excellent work Mr Canyon, cheers to whoever suggested this 🍻
I had to take my gyro out because it was limiting the steering and messing with me like an evil spirit! I would shut it off and the next time I went out it would be back on again!
Thanks for the vid. Really . I'll keep toe out on my trx4 trail but will reduce that toe.. I was wondering why it wanted to tip over so easily on tight turns.. so reducing that toe is probably a good way to go. On my hacked ecto with buns inserts and stuff I'll look into the toe in a bit and guess this is also the way to go in my config because as it currently sits it's a bit toe out and I'm sure neutral or in will improve the rig. Peace from the french guy living in Spain Gomu gomu no tires for ever (I love my Louise on crawler and on buggy) And may the torque be with you and all your followers
An excessive amount of caster is gonna tighten your turning radius. On Element axles I run as much caster as possible, and can get those 3' turning circles. Width starts to get noticeable (in terms of widening the circle) up around 10.5" wide.
This has always been my opinion when people ask, and what i always build into my trucks…Too out. Neutral for trail, toe out or negative toe for a crawler.
Looking for some information on 80 mil shocks and I cannot find very much. Would love to see a this or that 80 mil versus 90 mil shocks and see the difference and exactly what the benefits of running a shorter or longer shock
Suspension geometry-- particularly if the rig is CMS-- is pretty set to a specific length shock. If you just throw a longer shock on there (to get more downtravel) the front end geometry goes weird. This is especially noticeable in instances like the Phoenix, where Vanquish puts 80s on the portal but 90s on the straight axle, with no changes to links, so out of the box the portal out-handles the straight axle, at least IME. Axial keeps shipping kits and RTRs with 100s, and they're too long. The Base Camp is significantly better on 90s. Even the Capra is more agile on 90s than the factory 96s.
various different ways. make taller, make skinner, change the tire patch size, make a tire that wasnt ment for the specific application, etc... just playing around with trying something different. I have a few comp sets. It is like any other tires, just tire, rig, foam dependent.
I get so stoked when I see a new canyon vid 🎉🎉🎉
On an IRL GT1 race car we used to run toe-out in front and toe-in on the rear (road courses). Very small amounts in each case. Front was easy to set; rear required bending the axle tubes, so once it was where we wanted it we never messed with it again. Of course, the car was also RWD only. Very interesting to compare and contrast that with the behavior of scale 4x4 crawlers. I tend to setup my rigs the same way. The Twins are just perfect for this kind of stuff!
That's the way to set up your racer
I also asked this in the livestream. So glad you did a this n that about it.
This is a valuable test thanks
Another good vid to answer some questions we've always wondered about. I'd like to see these comparos when we have gates, just to force the lines. When it comes down to questions like this, I think you'd notice more in a comp environment where every few mm maters. Keep up the good work! I love that you made the twins....it's what I've always wanted in my review videos, lol.
I've always run a little toe out, very interested to see how this goes.
Helloooo canyoneros
Huge difference depends on Akerman setup axle to different axle. Obviously everyone setups a little different, but first is the clearence the steering till axle click, or even clearence yoke to prevent axle click. Max both to the side and measure, that is the tierod length. Akerman setup on the axle can give you something more to play with, keeping under about 0-5 mm at tire.
thanks for that video. it did answer my question very well. I am going to try the toe out on my trx 6 because the rig is pretty stable as it is, but doesn't have a whole lot of steering to it
yes
👍🏻 on the tech videos
"You can get wit dis, or you can get wit dat?, i think ill get wit dis, coz dis is where its at" Da Choice is yours"
don't forget to increase the EPA to balance the steering angles of each rig, 😊😊
What about good geometry vs bad geometry? We always talk about how important geometry is, and im curious about how big the difference could be. Is it possible to make the geometry of one of those gentlemans bad on purpose, without too much work?
I dont like the look of big OD, and I dont like the look of toe in/out neither
I've always ran 0 toe since I figure I get the max amount of steering from each side before my universals can't handle it anymore.
Neutral really is the way to go for probably 95% of rigs.
20:26 Like a glove 😅😂
Twin powers activated
My brain is definitely in neutral also!
can you do a similar video, with upper link lengths and another swapping upper link positions, front and rear. think that could possibly make some decent content wih the direct comparisons 😅😅
On go-fast we run toe-in to neutral and the ackerman gives us toe-out by full lock. As I understand it, the outside turning tire is loaded more at speed and that is mainly the tire doing the steering in a fast corner. I think you hit on it here that the loaded tire does most of the work. Toe-out at full lock gives more stability mid corner and in drift, the trailing tire offers some scrub
While we're at it anyone run a steering gyro in their crawler?? Think I'll go for a smidge of toe in, wasn't expecting that 👍 excellent work Mr Canyon, cheers to whoever suggested this 🍻
I had to take my gyro out because it was limiting the steering and messing with me like an evil spirit! I would shut it off and the next time I went out it would be back on again!
And there’s no need for the gyro unless you spend a lot of time in high gear hooning instead of crawling
Thanks for the vid. Really . I'll keep toe out on my trx4 trail but will reduce that toe.. I was wondering why it wanted to tip over so easily on tight turns.. so reducing that toe is probably a good way to go. On my hacked ecto with buns inserts and stuff I'll look into the toe in a bit and guess this is also the way to go in my config because as it currently sits it's a bit toe out and I'm sure neutral or in will improve the rig.
Peace from the french guy living in Spain
Gomu gomu no tires for ever (I love my Louise on crawler and on buggy)
And may the torque be with you and all your followers
Does running different tires have an affect on outcome? Curious due to recently encountering this endeavor.
I would love to see a test of scrub radius. Excessive offset vs a neutral. Or Maybe a caster comparison
An excessive amount of caster is gonna tighten your turning radius. On Element axles I run as much caster as possible, and can get those 3' turning circles. Width starts to get noticeable (in terms of widening the circle) up around 10.5" wide.
Ive always run toe out to place myself in a zero or even positive ackerman condition at full lock. I cant wait to see what your results are from this!
This has always been my opinion when people ask, and what i always build into my trucks…Too out. Neutral for trail, toe out or negative toe for a crawler.
The actual answer is camel
I love Toad in da hole😂 all u lot wit dirty minds, it a Food in da UK 😋
Looking for some information on 80 mil shocks and I cannot find very much. Would love to see a this or that 80 mil versus 90 mil shocks and see the difference and exactly what the benefits of running a shorter or longer shock
Suspension geometry-- particularly if the rig is CMS-- is pretty set to a specific length shock. If you just throw a longer shock on there (to get more downtravel) the front end geometry goes weird. This is especially noticeable in instances like the Phoenix, where Vanquish puts 80s on the portal but 90s on the straight axle, with no changes to links, so out of the box the portal out-handles the straight axle, at least IME. Axial keeps shipping kits and RTRs with 100s, and they're too long. The Base Camp is significantly better on 90s. Even the Capra is more agile on 90s than the factory 96s.
Yo
I just run zero toe best of both worlds
What’s all the fuzz about cut and shut tires? Have you tried any??
cutnshut tires have tread spiced in to make them taller.west desert wheeler makes cutnshuts
various different ways. make taller, make skinner, change the tire patch size, make a tire that wasnt ment for the specific application, etc... just playing around with trying something different. I have a few comp sets. It is like any other tires, just tire, rig, foam dependent.
i want that link measurement tool where u buy one? If its home made can you show how to make it?
amzn.to/4cHhIl1
What springs do you use on those shocks?
I've already mostly forgotten, but I think it's a mix of Dravtech medium (1.45lb) and soft (0.8lb)
Okay this is making me angry. 11 minutes in and still no toes in or out
Toes were out the whole time. I didn't wear shoes that entire day.
Ya could av a split tie rid n 2 mini servos n some fanagleing n ya got on da fly adjustable toe in or out..........................
...and that means in English...?
weird very weird
11th like