We Tried to Fix Something... Gauge Voltage Stabilizer Troubleshooting and an Autumn Drive
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- Опубліковано 18 жов 2024
- This week we get to work on the pesky fuel and temp gauges by ATTEMPTING to fix a bad gauge voltage stabilizer. We replace the old mechanical unit with a fancy new ELECTRONIC stabilizer. The results were…not exactly what we were expecting… Follow along as we troubleshoot some electrical problems on our 1964 Triumph TR4 before heading out for an autumn drive!
Watch the entire Triumph TR4 rebuild saga: • 1964 Triumph TR4 Resto...
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Since I’m a Tr6 guy can’t help too much maybe a bad ground in the series of connections.I would post your issue in the Triumph Experience a lot of Tr-4 guys there keep the vids coming.
Thanks, Ralph. Bad ground is definitely a good suggestion. It just grounds through a screw through painted steel. Probably not the most reliable...
Cheers guys, hope you get a few more rides in before winter settles in…
Tr6 has stabilizer too. But you're correct, heat doesn't read correctly & gas gauge reads wrong as well.
I had similar issues a while ago. Turns out the internal regulator on my GM alternator was bad and so it was varying the output to the electrical system. So first check to assure the alternator is functioning correctly. Also recheck the connections to the voltage stabilizer. It's difficult to check the original style VS output because of it's internal construction but the electronic one should be easily checked for output voltage. Also trace the power to the 2 gauges and assure they are wired correctly.. Lastly try another VS.
Hiya Guys. On my TR6, only the fuel and temp gauges use the stabilizer's 10 volts. The heater blower motor, the windshield wiper motor and everything else operate on battery voltage, Now my TR6 is a "74, 10 years newer, so hmmm, but that little stabilizer simply can't supply much current so I was not surprised that as you turned on other stuff, the voltage dropped. BTW, on my car, a previous owner had switched the green wire (12V) with the green wire w/black stripe (10V). So my stabilizer was actually good but the wiring screwup was sending 12V to the temp and fuel gauges which made them inaccurate and 10V to the heater blower motor which made that run slow. Oh, and BTW, I noticed in the video that when you first put your hand under the dash, a red wire's connection in a block to the left of the stabilizer moved and I don't think it should have. GL.
Thanks for the comment John. You are correct we need to do some more troubleshooting on where the wires actually go in the rest of the harness. That would be an easy fix then!
Moss had a quality control supplier issue with some of their VS units. I had one fail immediately on a XKE I was working on not to long ago. (same set up) Send it back and ask for a replacement. The new solid state Moss uniit that I recently bought for my TR4 worked correctly right out of the box. (My TR has also been changed to Neg. Grd.) In regards to temp gauges I finally gave up trying to match sending units with the gauge, there are at least 5 combination of gauges and sending units to choose from if you are not 100% sure that you have the original gauge. I finally decided to install a mechancial gauge that looks liike a stock Smith unit which does away with those pesky electrons and now gives me accurate and reliable temp readings.
Interesting on the temp gauge/sensor matching issue. No clue if either of ours are original. Could easily be another contributing factor. Where did you find the mechanical temp gauge?
@@WegsGarage eBay has them, they come from India but checked out just fine. If Triumph thought a mechanical oil pressure gauge was ok, why not use a mechanical water temp. gauge also? I’m not entirely hung up on what’s stock, functionality is more important to me.
In regards to your TR running a little hot, did you take the radiator to a reputable radiator shop and have it cleaned? I opted for a new aluminum unit with a electric fan set-up similar to yours. Just to add a little perspective I’m running 89MM piston with over .090” taken off the head, the cranking compression is 220 lbs. The only reason for giving you this info is that if any engine should over-heat especially living in Kansas it should be mine but it doesn’t?? You gain some efficiency with aluminum plus the cranking hole in the center of the radiator has been deleted. I hope this may help your issue.
Open the can on the new VS and look for a loose wire or bad solder joint. If you are good at tracing circuits you should be able to fine the fault. I lot of work for a $20 part but quicker than ordering a new one. Nice job on the car by the way.
Thanks, Darwin. I think I will do exactly that. Did some looking online and there is not much inside the case on the new one! Just a single voltage regulator chip.
Channeling Horshack here, "Ooh, ooh!" ua-cam.com/video/ju-lptJweTc/v-deo.html
It appears that your non-meter loads are going through your long-suffering gauge voltage stabilizer. Get the headlights, fans , non-metered loads off of it and things will settle down.
The other possibility is that the feed for the gauge voltage stabilizer is having its input drop because it is on a shared feed that drops under load. (so seeing the input as well as the output on the gauge voltage stabilizer would be helpful).
P.S. Love the old-ish school Fluke 77!
Is your TR4 still positive ground? No conversion. Could it be you have a negative voltage stabilizer? They sell both I believe. Cross check the #’s in the catalog with your part.
Btw, noticed the drivers seat back came off. Reminds me of the good old days. Seats look great! GL.
We are negative ground. The part number is correct, unless they put the wrong one in the bag (possible). Unfortunately it is not marked on the part.
Seat back is... frustrating haha. Need to find some better clips for the upper edge. Thanks for the comment!
BUY the Moss Motors electronic stabilizer ... and a new sender. Ok, send it back... And I vehemently recommend the Painless headlights Relay wiring harness, as you know it draws 12 volts directly from the battery. And NOT Through the 60-year-old Light switch. I noticed the difference INSTANTLY, as you would also. Oh, I'm still digging for the chrome glovebox strap I have in some dark box... 1/2 way through.
I found one of those under my right fender well also. I switched to a GM 1 wire alternator p
Thanks for the recommendation, Paul. Wish I had added the headlight relay to the harness when we had it out. I like the idea of adding it though. Putting it on the winter project list.
@@WegsGarage Wegs, it is an EASY AD-On.! So much so Most will not notice you just added it alongside the stock routed harness.!
Voltage regulator! 😵
when you shot the picture of the stabilizer one of the wires was not connected, and you also have to have them on the correct pins. check it out
Thanks Bill! All these comments are making me wish we had chased the wires a little further down the line 😬. Next time!